Measure in 6" from the tailgate ends of the angle iron, and make a mark for the tailgate

uprights. Make a
mark 2" in from the cab-side ends of the angle irons for cab-side uprights.

CUT & FASTEN UPRIGHTS TO ANGLE IRONS

1. On a flat surface, measure and mark 12-gauge (1/8") × 2 × 2" steel tubing
lengths at dimension b for the four uprights (A). This will leave a 4"
clearance between the rack and your truck cab roof.
2. Mark for a 10° angle cut on each upright end (see photos of assembled rack
shown here and here). This angle cut ensures the rack fits roughly parallel
with the cab roof.
3. Cut the uprights to length using a cutoff saw. Refine the 10° angle with an
angle grinder.
4. Align the cab-side uprights flush with the angle iron (F) cab-side ends.
Tack along two sides so that you can easily break the tacks and realign, if
necessary. Note: The location of the cab-side uprights determines where
you need to bend the long top bar. The edges of A and G and the bend on C
should all be aligned. Align the tailgate-end uprights 6" in from the angle
 iron ends (see the illustration). Tack along two sides so that you can easily
break the tacks and realign, if necessary (see photo).

SAFETY
NOTICE: For safe use of this rack project only use approved, safety-rated products to attach the
rack securely to your vehicle. These may include clamp-based, bolt-based, or stake-pocket
systems. Inspect clamps and fasteners regularly to make sure they are tightened properly.

Tack the cab-end uprights (A) onto the angle iron bedrails (F). Then tack the tailgate-side uprights onto
the angle iron bedrails 6" in from the edge. Tack only along two sides, because you may need to break
your tack welds to realign parts several times.

BUILD THE BASIC FRAME

1. Measure and mark the two lower long bars (C) to the length of the truck
bed (minus 2") plus the length of the cab (dim. a − 2") + dim. c. Note:
When planning out the four long top bar lengths, remember to account for
end caps. There is a 2× 2" tubing cap at the tailgate end and 1/4" flat stock
steel cap at the front end. Some racks hang slightly over the cab front
 while others (such as our rack) sit behind the cab front. The length of your
rack depends on your truck size and how much length you need for typical
loads. Consult with your truck manufacturer on recommended clearances.
2. Measure and mark the two top long bars (C) for length (dim. a + dim. c).
Note: The bend itself creates a variable in the final length of the top bars.
When the long top bar bends to meet the lower long bar, the two parts do
not meet flush at the ends. The square end is created with a 1/4" flat stock
steel end cap(s); also, the small triangular space in between the two parts
is filled with slag.
3. Cut all four long top bars to length using a cutoff saw.
4. Align the two lower long bars flush on top of the uprights. The long bars
will extend beyond the tailgate upright by 4". Note: The top and lower long
bars will be joined with a 2× 2" steel tubing (8" long) cap at the tailgate
end. To have the top bars align with the tailgate end of your truck, the top
bars must be aligned 2" in from the tailgate end.
5. Tack the lower long bars to the uprights. Make minimal tacks so that you
can break the welds and realign parts, if necessary. Note: Consider adding
a temporary brace made of scrap steel tubing that spans from the tailgate
ends of the top bars to help maintain the proper angle. We realigned the
top frame later and then introduced the brace, but it may save time to add
the brace now to avoid making time-consuming breaks and re-tacking
later.
6. Measure between the front two edges of the long top bars. Also measure
between the long top bars at the cab-side (in between two uprights). Use
these measurements to mark the lengths of the two permanent crossbars
(B).
7. Cut the two crossbars to length with a cutoff saw.
8. Align the crossbars in between the two lower long bars and then tack them
to the long bars. Use four 1" welds evenly spaced 1 to 2"; do not weld all
the way down the joint.
9. Measure between the two long bars at the tailgate side of the truck for the
removable crossbar. Measure, mark, and then cut this crossbar to length
using a cutoff saw.
10. Measure and mark the two rear crossbar tabs (D) to 2 × 21/2". Also
measure and mark the rear crossbar top (E) to length (length of removable
 crossbar + 2"). Cut the tabs and top to size.
11. Center the crossbar top (E) over the removable crossbar (B) and clamp
together with a corner clamp. Tack weld the two parts together.
12. Align the crossbar tabs (D) flush with the top edges of the crossbar top (E)
ends, and then weld them together (see Rear crossbar detail shown here).
13. Measure and mark eight 4 × 4" square spacer plates (G) from 1/4 × 4 × 4"
flat stock steel.
14. Cut the spacer plates using a portable band saw.
15. Mark the center circle on each spacer plate using a piece of 21/2" (o.d.)
pipe as a guide.
16. Cut the center circles out of the spacer plates using a plasma cutter (see
photo).
17. Center the spacer closest to the tailgate 5" in from the long bar end and
make a mark (C). This leaves a 4" space in between the end piece (I) and
spacer for the rear removable crossbar.
18. Align a spacer with its cab-side edge flush with the cab-side edge of the
upright. Mark this placement on the long bar (C).
19. Evenly space the other two spacers along the long bar. Mark the
placements onto the lower long bars (C).
20. Repeat the alignment of the spacer plates (G) along the other long bar (C).
21. Align each spacer plate on the lower long bars (C) in alignment with your
marks.
22. Hold the spacer plates in place with pliers and tack weld each spacer to
the long bars.
Cut the circle in the center of spacer plates using a plasma cutter. Shown here: clamped 4 × 4" flat stock
(with circle cutout premarked) and ground secured to table.

ADD LONG TOP BARS

1. Align the two uppermost long top bars (C) directly above the lower long
top bars. Center them over the spacer plates.
2. Tack weld the uppermost long top bars to the spacer plates every several
inches.
3. Mark the bend location flush with the edge of the cab-side spacer plate and
upright.
4. Check the entire rack for proper alignment. Break tack welds and realign
parts as necessary. Make adjustment marks and re-tack parts together in
proper alignment. Note: We had to break the welds at the lower top bar
and uprights to adjust the uprights to proper alignment with 10° angles at
each upright.
5. When the long bars are removed from the uprights (this is very likely going
to be necessary; see Note above), take advantage of this situation to make
the long top bar bends on a sturdy worktable.
6. Score along the bend mark using an angle grinder or reciprocating saw.
Score only as deep as necessary to make the bend.
7. Bend the top long bars to meet the bottom long bars.
8. Mark the cutting line at the front (cab-side) of the uppermost long top bars
for the final length. Cut the excess length off the top bars with a portable
bandsaw.
9. Tack weld the top long top bar to the lower long top bar at the front only.
Note: Leave the bend open (not welded) for now.
Bend the notched top long bar to reach the lower bar. The front finished triangular ends fill in with slag.
The ends are capped with 2× flat stock steel. Inset: The top long bar was capped with a 2 × 2" flat stock
steel to bring ends flush; then a 2 × 4" flat stock steel piece was used for the final end cap that spans
from top to bottom of the two long bars.
Re-attach the top frame to the uprights, welding at the inside corner of each crosspiece and long bar.

RE-FASTEN TOP & BOTTOM FRAMES TOGETHER

1. With the long bars tacked, realign the top/lower long top bars (top frame)
atop the uprights and check for proper alignment. Note: We also tacked on
a temporary brace made of scrap steel tubing over the tailgate ends of the
lower long bars (C) to help maintain alignment (see photo).
2. Re-tack the long top bars in place on the uprights. Check for proper
alignment and make final adjustments, as necessary.
3. Finish the welds at the bend (previously tacked to allow for adjustments),
allowing slag to fill the void.
4. Finish the welds at the fronts of the long bars, allowing slag to fill in
between the triangular corners.
Weld the final 2 × 4" caps onto the ends of the long top bars for flush front edges.

ADD END CAPS & GUSSETS

1. Cap the exposed ends of long bar tubing for a flush front edge. Note: We
had to use a 2 × 2" end cap on the long top bar and then another 2 × 4"
end cap to cover both the top and lower long top bars.
2. Cap all remaining exposed tube ends.
3. Cut 12-gauge (1/8") 2 × 2" steel tubing to 8" (I). Align each piece against
the lower and uppermost long top bars at the tailgate end of the rack. Weld
in place.
4. Measure and mark the eight triangular gussets (H) to fit in four inside
corners of the rack (see illustration).
5. Cut the gussets with a band saw.
6. Align the gusset plates in each inside corner of the rack, and then weld
them in place.

FINISH
1. Fully weld all final joints. Make at least 2" welds at the inside corner of
each crosspiece and long bar. Do not weld any braces used. And do not
weld the rear removable crossbar.
2. Grind down all of the welds (see photo) and sand all surfaces in
preparation for primer.
3. Break the tacks on any temporary braces and remove them. Grind down
those final edges.
4. Prime the entire truck rack to protect it from the elements. Allow the rack
to dry.
5. Paint or powder-coat the entire truck rack. Use exterior-rated enamel spray
paint. Powder coating is best, but it is also the most expensive and requires
special equipment.

INSTALL THE RACK

1. To install the rack onto your truck, you’ll need a helper or two. Lift the rack
up onto the truck and align the angle irons onto the truck bedrail.
2. Fasten the rack angle irons to the truck with clamps, bolts, and/or your
chosen fastening method.

Grind all welds and caps smooth with an angle grinder.

TRAILER FRAME
Most trailers have a very specific purpose. It could be to transport lawn
equipment or snow removal machines for a small business, it might be to
haul all-terrain vehicles or dirt bikes, or perhaps to transport building
materials for DIY projects or cart away trash to the dump on the weekend.
Each purpose carries special requirements that are reflected in the trailer
construction. The welding project seen here is a highly adaptable trailer frame
that can be finished and accessorized in just about any way you can imagine
to serve your own needs.

A trailer is basically a metal frame with axles and wheels that you attach with
a hitch to your vehicle. When choosing an axle kit, consider weight capacity,
type of suspension (leaf spring, torsion bar, etc.), width of frame, and height
of the hitch. Axle kits typically include the axle, brackets to fasten the axle to
the trailer frame, suspension (ours included leaf springs), fastening system to
attach the leaf springs to the axle (ours included U-bolts, plates, bolts, and
nuts), and a hub set. Our kit also included the trailer fenders, tires, and wheels
—some kits include necessary parts for brakes and lights as well. The axle kit
shown in this project was purchased from Northern Tool Company. The cost
for a similar axle kit ranges from $170 to $300.

You’ll also need to choose and purchase a floor material. For vehicle
transport—such as snowmobiles or ATVs—expanded metal lath is an
excellent choice. If you’ll be hauling construction debris or yard waste,
exterior-rated plywood is a good choice; hardwood boards (such as white
oak) are a good option for high durability. Walls can also be formed with
similar materials.

Further customization of your trailer can include tie-downs and anchors,

removable or hinged ramps, and custom tongue or coupler hardware.
MATERIALS
• 14-gauge 2 × 2" steel tubing
• 3/16 × 2" HRS flat bar (7')
• 1/4 × 13/4" HRS flat bar (1')
• Axle kit (incl. leaf springs, U-bolts, U-brackets, axle)
• Hubs and wheels
• Side stakes (2 × 4 treated lumber or metal tubes)
• Trailer sides, front/back, and bed (treated plywood or expanded metal)
• Trailer coupler

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Frame sides 14-gauge 2 × 2" steel tubing×(dim. a) 2
B Frame front/back 14-gauge 2 × 2" steel tubing×(dim. b) 2
C Trailer tongue 14-gauge 2 × 2" steel tubing×(variable 1
dim.)
D Crossbars 14-gauge 2 × 2" steel tubing×(variable 2
dim.)
E Stake pocket sides 3/ 3
16×2" HRS×1 /4" 24
 F Stake pocket fronts 3/ ×2" HRS×31/ " 12
16 2

G Axle kit Incl. axle, 2 leaf springs, 2 hubs, 4 U- 1

bolts (2 plates, 8 nuts), 4 suspension
brackets
H Wheels, tires 2 ea.
I Trailer side stakes 2 × 4 treated lumbar or metal 12
tubes×15" (not shown)
J Trailer sides* 1" thick×(dim. a)×12" (not shown) 2
K Trailer front/back* 1" thick×(dim. b)×12" 2
L Coupler plates 11/4×13/4" HRS flat bar 2
M Trailer bed* (dim. a×dim. b) (not shown) 1
* Treated 2 ×4" lumber, plywood, planks, or expanded metal.
Note: caps in sizes 2 ×2" and 2 ×4"will also be needed for all exposed tube ends.
HOW TO BUILD A TRAILER FRAME
BUILD THE FRAME
1. Measure, mark, and then cut the frame sides (A) and frame front/back (B)
parts to length (dimension a and dimension b, respectively). Note: We cut
the ends at a 45° angle for mitered corners.
2. Square one frame side tube (A) with one frame front tube (B), and tack
them together to make an L.
3. Repeat step 2 for the other frame side tube and back tube.
4. Tack the two Ls together and check for square using a combination square
or framing square (see photo).
5. Weld the inside corners; then weld the outside corners; lastly, weld along
the top and bottom.
6. Cut the two crossbars (D) to length.
7. Align the crossbars in between the frame sides. Note: The exact location is
determined by the axle size and placement. The crossbars add overall
support to the frame. Most axle kits come with instructions and placement
recommendations based on the size of your trailer and the loads you intend
to carry.
8. Check each crossbar for square, and then tack them onto the frame.

Tack weld together the trailer sides and front/back to make the basic frame.
Weld the trailer tongue to the underside of the frame.

SAFETY
NOTICE: If you plan on using your trailer on streets or roads it must be licensed and, in most
cases, it must have working brake lights, reflectors, and safety chains in case of hitch failure.
Some areas may also require that your trailer pass a safety inspection.

CONNECT THE TRAILER TONGUE TO CROSSBARS

1. Measure, mark, and then cut the trailer tongue (C) to length.
2. Align the trailer tongue down the center of the frame, on top of the
crossbars. Clamp the trailer tongue to the crossbars. Measure to ensure the
tongue is centered and square. Adjust as necessary. Note: We extended the
trailer tongue to the far back of the trailer frame for optimal strength.
3. Tack the trailer tongue to the two crossbars, and then weld it onto the
frame (see photo).
INSTALL THE AXLE KIT & WHEELS
1. Align a bracket onto each underside of the trailer frame sides. Follow the
axle kit instructions, and make sure the brackets are square and aligned at
the exact same location on both sides of the frame.
2. Tack the brackets onto the frame (see photo).
3. Align the leaf spring into the bracket tacked onto the trailer following the
manufacturer’s instructions. Locate the placement for the other bracket
under the leaf spring, and then align it on the trailer frame. Repeat for the
other trailer side.
4. Check the brackets on both sides of the trailer for squareness to each other.
5. Set the leaf spring aside, and then weld all brackets in place.
6. Bolt the leaf spring to the brackets following the manufacturer’s
instructions.
7. Align the axle in place under the leaf spring following the manufacturer’s
instructions. Fasten the axle to each leaf spring. Our kit came with two
heavy-duty U-bolts that wrap around the axle and then bolt onto each leaf
spring (see photo).
8. Install the hubs and wheels onto the axle following the axle kit instructions.
Inflate the tires.

Tack the first axle bracket onto the underside of the trailer frame. Repeat for the other trailer side. The
brackets need to be perfectly square to each other. Hold the leaf spring in place over the bracket to align
the second bracket on each side. Weld the brackets to the frame, and then bolt the leaf spring to the
brackets.
Bolt the axle to the leaf spring with large U-bolts.

MAKE THE TRAILER COUPLER PLATES

1. Cut the coupler plates (L) to size (see photo), and then drill holes in the
plates. Match the hole size and location to the coupler used (see photo).
Note: Our coupler slid over the plates and fastened to the tongue on the
top and bottom, so we aligned the plates with holes at top and bottom of
the tongue, but some couplers fasten to tongues at the sides and the hole
locations will vary. The coupler and hitch type is determined by your
vehicle type, final trailer construction, and the weight of your trailer and
anticipated loads (see Resources).
2. Visually align, clamp, and then tack the coupler plates to the trailer tongue.
Extend the coupler plates at least 3" past the trailer tongue end.
3. Mark the angle bend location(s) on the tongue. Determine the tongue
angle(s) by measuring from the hitch of the towing vehicle to the trailer
tongue (remember to inflate tires). Note: If the angle is significantly steep,
making multiple bends at incremental angles will provide a stronger
tongue (see photo).
4. Score the angle mark using a 41/2 angle grinder with a fiber cut-off wheel.
5. Bend the tongue to the proper angles.
6. Tack the tongue back together at the scores. Double-check the fit next to
the towing vehicle. The trailer should be level (see photo).
7. Weld the coupler plates to the tongue.
8. Make all final welds at bends along tongue.
9. Slide the coupler over the coupler plates. Bolt the coupler to the plates, and
then weld along all points on which the coupler and tongue connect.
MAKE THE STAKE SIDE POCKETS
1. Measure and cut the two sides for each stake pocket (E) to 3/16 × 2" HRS ×
13/4".
2. Measure and cut one front for each stake pocket (F) to 3/16 × 2" HRS ×
31/2".
3. Align a pocket side (E) and front (F) onto a 90° magnetic square to form
open corner joints (see photo). Tack the pieces together to form an L, and
then make the final weld.
4. Use a magnetic square to weld on the second pocket side to form the
complete U for all twelve pockets—be sure to use an open corner joint
again. Make all final welds.
5. Repeat for all twelve pockets.
6. Align pockets around the trailer so they are evenly spaced along the long
frame sides, starting at 2" in from the corners.
7. Tack the pockets to the trailer frame (see photo). Check for square.

FINISH
1. Roughen the surfaces by sanding.
2. Apply a rusty metal primer for optimal rust protection.
3. Paint or powder coat the trailer with paint rated for exterior applications for
extra durability and weatherproofing.
Cut the coupler plates to size using a chop saw.

Drill holes into the coupler plates according to the coupler specifications.
To determine the angle for the trailer tongue, align an angle finder on your truck or ATV hitch and on the
trailer tongue. Mark this angle at the appropriate location on the tongue.
Score notches along the tongue to achieve the desired angle using a handheld grinder. Tack the bends and
then hook up the trailer to your towing vehicle—the trailer should be level. If necessary, break tacks and
re-bend tongue. Make final welds along each bend.

POWDER COATING
Powder coating is the most effective painting technique to protect exterior metal projects, as it
produces a very thick coating, results in little to no paint drips or runs, and produces an abrasion-
resistant and tough finish. Home powder-coating systems range in price from $100 to $700. (See
Resources.)
Assemble the side pockets. These pockets are available pre-made if you find this to be too time-
consuming. They are relatively inexpensive.
Tack the pockets around the perimeter of the frame.
 FLOOR & SIDE OPTIONS

If you plan to use your trailer for yardwork and hauling debris, you’ll want to
add a solid floor and sides to your trailer. A simple method, which we show
here, is to attach plywood siding to 2 × 4 exterior-rated stakes set into the
pockets along the trailer frame. The stakes are exterior-treated 2 × 4 lumber
and the siding is 3/4 × 4 × 8" plywood. The plywood floor is drilled directly to
the trailer frame.

MAKE REMOVABLE SIDES & TRAILER BED

1. Measure and cut twelve 2 × 4s (I) into 15" lengths.
2. Measure and cut the plywood bed (M) to dimension a×dimension b.
3. Measure and cut the plywood sides (J) to dimension a×12".
4. Measure and cut the plywood front/back pieces to dimension b×12" (h).
5. Insert the twelve 2 × 4 stakes into the trailer pockets.
6. Fasten the plywood sides and front/back to the 2 × 4s (see photo). If a 2 × 4
does not quite fit, use a chisel and hammer to adjust it.
7. Fasten the trailer bed to the frame (see photo) with bolts or self-tapping
metal screws spaced every 6 to 12".
Fasten 3/4"-thick plywood trailer sides to the exterior-rated 2 × 4 stakes.
Drill the exterior-rated plywood sheet for flooring directly to the trailer frame.
Alternative: Weld expanded metal lath all along the top of the frame perimeter (photo left). This is more
suitable than wood for hauling ATVs, motorcycles, and snowmobiles. If the primary use of your trailer is to
transport vehicles, another feature to consider is a drop-down back (photo right). This requires building
out a frame and then welding expanded metal lath onto it—just as you did with the trailer floor—and then
using a purchased or custom-made bolt-on hinge system with latches.
STAIR RAILING
With the number of companies selling decorative metal pickets and newel
posts, it is easy to create a railing distinctly your own. The railing we are
making is for a two step concrete stairway.

Some important information about creating railings:

The rail top should not be interrupted by knobs or other decorations—it must
allow continuous hand to rail contact and should be between 11/2" and 2" in
diameter to ensure easy gripping.

Some railings—those mounted against a wall or in an area where the stair

surface is not raised above the surrounding surface, such as the stairs in the
slope of your lawn—can be a single rail at the appropriate height. A railing
that separates the stair, landing, balcony, or deck from a vertical drop has to
conform to certain safety standards. Typically, the pickets or balusters must
not have any gaps larger than 51/2" for child safety. The lower rail should not
be more than 2" from the floor surface. If the vertical drop from the floor line
is more than 6', the railing must be a minimum of 34" tall. If the vertical drop
is less than 6', the railing must be a minimum of 32" in height. Railings must
have turn-outs or roundovers at their ends to prevent blunt projections. The
safest handrails continue 12" beyond the top and bottom stairs. Railings must
be able to withstand a 250-pound force in any direction without giving way.
Check your local building codes for specific requirements.

You can purchase rail cap, also called cap rail or handrail, at most steel
supply centers. Handrail terminations come in a variety of styles. Those that
scroll in an S shape are called “lamb tongues.” A “volute” is a spiral
termination, and a “lateral” is a flat curl to the side. These may be ordered
through specialty railing distributors (see Resources).
MATERIALS
• 13/4" rail cap (as needed)
• 1" square tube (as needed)
 • 1/2" square rod (as needed)
• 1/2" decorative pickets (as needed)
• 1/8 × 1/2 × 1" channel (as needed)
• Lamb tongue rail termination
• Mounting hardware

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Handrail 13/4" rail cap × 64"* 1

B Newel posts 1/ 1
8 × 1 × 1" square tube × 32 /2" 3*
C Plain pickets 1/
2" square rod × 30" 4*
D Decorative pickets 1/
2" decorative pickets × 30" 6*
E Flat bottom rail 1/ 1/
8× 2 × 1" channel × 40"* 1
F Angled bottom rail 1/ 1/
8× 2 × 1" channel × 24"* 1
G Rail termination 1

*Dimensions and quantities must be adjusted to fit the particular stairs.

HOW TO BUILD STAIR RAILING
CUT THE HANDRAIL TO LENGTH
1. Measure from the edge of the house to the edge of the landing. Measure
from the edge of the landing to where the newel post will be located. Add
these two measurements to get the length of the handrail.
2. Cut the handrail (A) to size.

SHAPE THE HANDRAIL

It is a good idea to create an angle guide for bending the handrail by screwing
two pieces of wood together at the length and angle to match the stairway.
1. Set the handrail on the landing with one end butting against the house.
Mark the handrail at the edge of the landing.
2. Clamp the railing in a bench vise and heat the bending point red hot with
an acetylene torch (see photo). A cutting torch preheat works best, just
make sure you don’t hit the oxygen and accidentally cut the metal.
3. When the metal is red hot, bend it to create the angle. It is helpful if you
pull on the longer end of the rail to bend so you have more leverage.
4. When finished bending the handrail, place it on the stairs to make sure the
bend is correct.

LAY OUT THE NEWEL POSTS & PICKETS

The newel posts will be anchored in the concrete or attached using square
footings that will bolt into the concrete, so they have to be far enough from
the edge not to destroy the edge of the concrete.
1. Determine the number of plain pickets (C), decorative pickets (D), and
newel posts (B) you need.
2. Place the bent handrail on the floor or a large work surface. Place newel
posts at each end of the handrail and near the bend.
3. Lay out the pickets in a pleasing pattern, making sure they are no more
than 51/2" apart (see photo).
4. Mark and cut the two bottom rails (E and F) to fit between the newel posts,
once you have the layout determined. Place the channel flat side up with
the legs down. Mark the picket locations on the railings.
Option: When you look at railings, you will see that some have the pickets
and newel posts welded directly to the rail cap, as you see here. Other
railings have a piece of channel welded into the underside of the rail cap and
the pickets are welded to the flat side of the channel. Punched channel can be
purchased with 1/2× 1/2" square holes pierced through it. This is welded
under the rail cap, and the pickets are inserted through the punched holes
and welded in place. You also can use the punched channel for the bottom
rail. Using punched channel means you cannot adjust spacing to account for
the unique shapes and sizes of decorative pickets.
Heat the bending point of the handrail to red hot with an acetylene torch or cutting tip to make the
metal easy to bend.

CUT THE POSTS & PICKETS TO LENGTH

Purchased decorative pickets range from 36" to 39". When cutting decorative
pickets, cut equal amounts from each end unless you wish the pattern to be
off center.
1. Determine the height of your handrail and the depth that the newel posts
will be footed in the concrete (if they are to be footed; otherwise measure
 to the top of the concrete).
2. Cut the newel posts and pickets to length. Cut the appropriate angle for the
stair pickets.

ASSEMBLE THE RAILING

Concrete can explode when heated, so it is best to do your welds on a sheet of
plywood that can be doused with water when you have finished.
1. Tack weld the newel posts to the rail cap. Tack weld the bottom rails to the
newel posts.
2. Place the rail assembly on the stairs to make sure the dimensions are
correct. If they are not, break or grind off the tack welds and make
adjustments.
3. Return the assembly to the work surface, and tack weld the pickets in
place, maintaining the proper spacing (see photo). Use a combination
square to check each piece for square before welding.
4. Make the final welds. Weld the lamb’s tongue termination to the end of the
rail cap.
5. Grind down any rough or unsightly welds. Wire brush or sandblast the rail
assembly.
6. Install the railing by cementing the newel posts into the stairs or using bolt-
down flange shoes.
7. Prime and paint the railing with a high quality outdoor metal paint.
Lay out the pickets and newel posts in a pleasing arrangement, keeping them no more than 51/2" apart,
and tack weld the pickets in place maintaining the proper spacing.
GATE
This gate framework can be used to hold a collection of found metal objects.
Use brazing or braze welding to join non-matching metals or thicknesses of
metals. Rusty objects will need to be cleaned at the point of contact. If the
objects you find are large, you may want to space the uprights at 8", rather
than 4". The 4" spacing meets code requirements for gates and fences—this
spacing prevents children from getting their heads stuck between uprights.
MATERIALS
• 16 gauge 1 × 1" square tube (171/2')
• 16 gauge 1/2 × 1/2" square tube (30')
• 4" weldable barrel hinges (2)
• Gate latch hardware
• Found objects
• Wood and brass spacers
PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY
A Sides 16-gauge 1 × 1" square tube × 46" 2
B Crosspieces 16-gauge 1 × 1" square tube × 40" 2
C Interior crosspiece 16-gauge 1 × 1" square tube × 38" 1
D Vertical inserts 16-gauge 1/2 × 1/2" square tube × 40" 9
HOW TO MAKE A GATE
ASSEMBLE THE FRAME
1. Cut the sides and crosspieces (A and B) to size, mitering the ends at 45°.
2. Place the left side piece and bottom crosspiece together at a 90° angle to
form one corner of the rectangle. Check the pieces for square, and clamp in
place. Tack weld the pieces together.
3. Place the right side piece and top crosspiece together to form another
corner of the rectangle. Check for square, clamp in place, and tack weld
together.
4. Join the two pieces to form the rectangle. Check the corners for square, and
clamp in place. Tack weld the corners together.
5. Measure the diagonals of the rectangle to check for square. If the
measurements of both diagonals are equal, the assembly is square. If it is
not square, pull or push it into alignment. When aligned, clamp it in place,
and finish the corner welds.
6. Turn the assembly over, and complete the welds.

ATTACH THE INTERIOR CROSSPIECE & INSERTS

1. Cut the interior crosspiece (C) and vertical inserts (D) to size.
2. Place the interior crosspiece against the inside edges of the side pieces 5"
down from the top crosspiece. Check the pieces for square, and clamp in
place. Weld the interior crosspiece to the sides.
3. Place the vertical inserts at 4" intervals between the interior and bottom
crosspieces. Make sure the spacing is even—you might need to adjust to
slightly less or more than 4" if the miter cuts are slightly off. Keep the
outside edge of the inserts flush with the outside edge of the crosspieces.
4. When the spacing is adjusted properly and the inserts are square to the
crosspieces, tack weld each insert at both ends.
5. Check the assembly and inserts for square one more time. Turn the
assembly over, and weld each upright in place.

ATTACH THE FOUND OBJECTS

Objects other than mild steel will need to be brazed or braze welded. Connect
non-metallic objects by wrapping or folding a thin strip of mild steel sheet
metal or a short piece of 1/8" steel rod around an edge. Weld the ends of the
rod or strap to the framework.
1. Arrange your found objects artfully across the interior space.
2. Carefully clean rust or paint from the areas where the found objects contact
the uprights.
3. Weld the found objects in place.

ATTACH THE HINGES

Our gate is made to hang attached to a metal gate post. We chose to use
barrel style hinges.
1. Place the gate between the gate posts. Use wood spacers and braces to
position the gate between the gate posts, and clamp or brace solidly in
place.
2. Line up the hinges on the post and the gate (see photo). Use a level to
check for plumb. (For the gate to swing properly, the hinges need to be
installed perfectly plumb.) Tack weld the hinges to the gate and post.
3. Remove the bracing, and check that the gate swings freely. When it does,
complete the hinge welds.
4. Install the gate latch hardware. If the hardware is painted or zinc coated,
grind off the coating before welding, or install with screws.
Brace the gate in position between the gate posts. Clamp a wood spacer between the gate post and the
gate side. Position the hinge and check for plumb.
OUTDOOR ANGLED FIREPIT WITH FLOOR
Form and functionality will set the mood for your backyard bonfire. Often a
firepit can be the centerpiece for an attractive outdoor event area, and this
design will allow you to add your own custom touches to an eye-catching
design that leaves the normal old, dull round firepit in the scrapyard.

This firepit is a standalone project that will challenge your newfound welding
and layout skills. This platform will allow you to tap into your creative side.
Add your own decorative patterns to personalize this project. Practice cutting
your design on scrap to perfect your plasma-cutting skills.

Work with your local steel provider to shear or plasma cut the 4 × 8-foot
sheet into your cut list sizes to allow for safer, easier material handling,
especially in a smaller shop. This may add to the cost, but will make for a
safer work environment.
MATERIALS
• 10-gauge HRS sheet (4 × 8’ sheet)
• 3/16" HRS bar (two 12’ lengths)

PART DIMENSIONS STOCK QUANTITY

A 24 × 48" 10-gauge HRS sheet 4
B 36" 3/ " HRS bar 9
16

C 51" 3/ " HRS bar 1

16

D 3" 3/ " HRS bar 8

16
HOW TO BUILD YOUR FIREPIT
Before welding, clean all parts to remove mill scale and any oil residue. Wipe
clean with denatured alcohol and then grind any remaining mill scale 1/2"
wide through any areas to be welded.

LAY OUT & WELD THE BOX

Place two pieces of part A on the layout table. On one 4’ length, measure 6"
in from both ends and place a mark. From this point (A), scribe a line at 75°
up toward the top outside corner (see photo).
1. From the top of this diagonal line, measure down 2" and in 1", and make a
mark—point B. Now, cut along the line from point B to point A, creating a
cut equal to the thickness of the 10-gauge sheet, approximately 1/8". Clean
both sides, remove all slag or dross, and set aside the part (see photo).
2. With the second piece of part A, repeat step 1. Using a flap wheel sanding
disc, preferably 80-grit, remove all mill scale along this line to a width of
1".
3. Slide part A over the uncut part A; repeat on the opposite side. Flip the
assembly over so the bottom side is now face up. Slide parts A along parts
B to form a 3 × 3’ opening. Measure the diagonals in two directions across
the opening to assure it is square (see photo).
4. Tack all four corners, and then measure and stitch-weld the four seams (see
photo).
From point A, scribe a line at 75° up toward the top outside corner.
Make a cut along the line from point B to point A.
Measure diagonally to ensure you have a square.
Tack all four corners, and then measure and stitch-weld the four seams.

FABRICATING & INSTALLING THE FIRE GRATE

1. Lay out four pieces of part B to form a box. Measure diagonally in two
directions to make sure the frame is square (see photo). Tack two places at
each corner.
2. Position five pieces of part B at 6" on-center intervals across the frame.
Measure to ensure both sides are evenly spaced, and then tack the pieces in
place. Weld the assembly (see photo).
3. Place and weld the stiffener (C) on its edge along a line diagonally across
the underside of the fire grate (see photo).
Measure diagonally in two directions to make sure the frame is square.
Position five pieces of part B at 6" on-center intervals across the frame. Measure to ensure both sides are
evenly spaced, and then tack the pieces in place. Weld the assembly.

PLACE & WELD THE FIRE GRATE SUPPORT TABS

1. Place one piece of part B in the center along the bottom edge of part A.
Weld in place (see photo).
2. Place the fire grate in place and mark a line along the underside of the
grate on the part B (both sides). Remove grate, and place and tack three
pieces of part D evenly spaced along the underside of the scribed line.
Repeat on the other side. Weld all pieces in place.
3. Draw your scroll work or decorative design on the sides of the firepit, and
then cut them with a plasma cutter or oxyacetylene torch.

Let your creative side be highlighted by the fire on a well-deserved break at

night admiring your work!
Place and weld the stiffener on its edge.
Place one piece of part B in the center along the bottom edge of part A. Weld in place.
Remove grate, and place and tack three pieces of part D evenly spaced along the underside of the scribed
line. Repeat on the other side. Weld all pieces in place.
Draw your scroll work or decorative design on the sides of the firepit, and then cut them with a plasma
cutter or oxyacetylene torch.
VINEYARD TRELLIS
This arbor is a beautiful stand-alone piece, but it
is also a brilliant addition to the Arch & Gate
(shown here). Either way it is an impressive
addition to your yard. Mount it against a wall or
fence, or use it as a panel within a fence. Better
yet, make an entire fence of trellises! To do so,
screw mount the panels to 4× 4 wood posts, or
weld the panels to 3× 3 steel posts.

You may want to cap off your trellis with a finial

or decorate the panels with permanent trailing
vines for the off season. See Resources for finial,
frieze, and stamped metal sources. Make sure to
order parts that can be welded. Cast iron cannot
be easily welded to the steel trellis parts.
MATERIALS
• 16-gauge 1 × 1" square tube (23')
• 16-gauge 1/2 × 1/2" square tube (18')
• 3/4" round rod (6')
• 1/8 × 1/2 × 1/2" angle iron (4")
• 1/4" round rod (18')
 PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY
A Legs 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 60" 2
B Crossbars 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 25" 2
C Verticals 16-gauge 1/2× 1/2" square tube× 54" 4
D Main arch 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 51"* 2
E Sleeves 1/ 1/ 1/
8× 2× 2" angle iron × 2" 2
F Decorative arches 1/
4" round rod × varied* 8
G Mounting stakes 3/
4" round rod× 36" 2

* Approximate dimensions, cut to fit.

HOW TO BUILD A VINEYARD TRELLIS
Before welding, clean all parts thoroughly with denatured alcohol.

MAKE THE PANEL

1. Cut the legs (A) and crossbars (B) to length.
2. Lay out the crossbars between the legs. Align the top crossbar with the top
of the legs. Place the lower crossbar 4" from the bottom of the legs.
3. Check for square, clamp in place, and tack weld together.
4. Measure across the diagonals to check for square. If the diagonals are not
equal, adjust until they are. Complete the welds.
5. Cut the verticals (C) to length.
6. Mark the crossbars at 5", 10", 15", and 20". Center the verticals at the
marks, check for square, and weld in place.

BEND THE MAIN ARCHES

1. Cut a 28"-radius semicircle from 1/2" plywood. Cut the semicircle in half.
2. Stack the quarter circles and screw them onto a 3 × 3 sheet of plywood.
Screw 2× 4 stops along the bottom.
3. Clamp this bending jig to a stable work surface. Slide an arch piece (D)
between the stops so it extends 2" below the bottom of the semicircle.
Bend the tube around the curve (see photo). Bend the second arch in the
same manner.

FINISH THE MAIN ARCHES

1. Remove the quarter circles from the bending jig. From the right angles of
the quarter circles, measure in 171/2" along one flat side. At this point,
draw a line perpendicular to the side. Cut along the line. Repeat with the
second quarter circle.
2. Mount these two arcs at the top of a 4× 8 sheet of plywood, abutting them
together on the new cuts to create a template for the arch.
3. Place one arch into the left side of the jig. Mark a vertical line on the arch
to match the joint of the two wood arcs (see photo). Cut the arch along the
line.
4. Place the other arch into the right side of the jig. Mark the centerline and
cut.
5. Place both arches back into the jig and weld together at the peak.
6. Cut the sleeves (E) to length. Slide a sleeve 1" into each end of the arch.
Slide the top of the panel over the sleeves. Weld the arch to the legs.

Bend the arch around the jig. Insert a 1/2" black pipe into the tube end to create more leverage.

MAKE THE DECORATIVE ARCHES

1. Attach a stop block 1/2" from the base of the arch jig. Bend a decorative
arch piece (F) around the jig to make a curve. Continue bending curves as
needed.
2. At the 5" mark on the top crossbar, center one end of the arch piece. Align
the arch parallel to the main arch. Mark the arch where it crosses the main
arch (see photo). Cut on this line. At both ends, tack weld in place.
3. Repeat step 2 at the 10", 15", and 20" marks.
4. Repeat the process of placing, cutting, and welding arches for arches
curving in the opposite direction. Finish all welds.
5. To prevent rattling, tack weld the arches to each other where they cross.

FINISH THE ARBOR

1. Wire brush or sandblast the arbor. Finish as desired.
2. Pound the mounting stakes (G) 2' into the ground, 26" apart. Slide the legs
over the mounting stakes.
3. Using wire, secure the top or sides of the arbor to a wall or fence.

Place an arch in the second jig and mark where the arc crosses the vertical line between the two half
circles.
After bending the decorative arches, mark where they cross the crossbar and main arches.
ARCH & GATE
What a grand entryway this arch and gate
provides! Unlike many manufactured archways,
this one stands a full eight feet tall, allowing easy
passage underneath and plenty of room for
trailing foliage. It is proportioned to fit over a
42-inch walkway. The arching pattern is
beautiful and fairly easy to create. When paired
with the matching vineyard trellis (shown here),
this project will really add class to your yard or
garden.
MATERIALS
• 16-gauge 1/2 × 1/2" square tube (481/2')
• 16-gauge 1 × 1" square tube (70')
• 1/8 × 1/2 × 1/2" angle iron (8")
• 1/4" round rod (48')
 • 3/4" round tube (8')
• 2" weldable barrel hinges (2 pair, Decorative Iron #14.1120)
• Gate latch (1, Decorative Iron #14.2012)
• 1/2" plywood (2, 4× 8) sheets

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Main arch 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 51"* 4
B Legs 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 60" 4
C Crossbars 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 20" 6
D Decorative vertical 16-gauge 1/2× 1/2" square tube× 44" 6
E Decorative arch 1/ " round rod× 36"* 16
4

F Sleeves 1/ × 1/ × 1/ " angle iron× 2" 2

8 2 2

G Arch crossbars 16-gauge 1/2× 1/2" square tube× 20" 9

H Gate uprights 16-gauge× 1× 1" square tube× 34" 4
I Gate crossbars 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 223/8" 6
J Gate verticals 16-gauge 1/2× 1/2" square tube× 23" 6
K Barrel hinges 3" 4
L Latch 1
M Mounting stakes 3/ " round tube× 24" 4
4

* Approximate dimensions, cut to fit.

HOW TO BUILD AN ARCH GATE
Before welding, clean all parts thoroughly with denatured alcohol.

MAKE THE MAIN ARCHES

1. Cut a 28"-radius semicircle from 1/2" plywood. Cut the semicircle in half.
2. Stack the quarter circles and screw them onto a 3 × 3 sheet of plywood.
Screw 2× 4 stops along the bottom.
3. Clamp this bending jig to a stable work surface. Slide an arch piece (A)
between the stops, so it extends 4" below the bottom of the semicircle.
Bend the tube around the curve (see photo). Bend the remaining arches.

MAKE THE SIDE PANELS

1. Cut the legs (B) and crossbars (C) to length.
2. Lay out two legs and three crossbars on a flat surface. Align the top
crossbar flush with the top of the legs and the base of the bottom crossbar
4" from the bottom of the legs (see photo). Align the top of the third
crossbar 10" down from the top of the legs. Check for square, clamp in
place, and tack weld. Repeat to form the second side panel.
3. Before cutting the decorative verticals (D), measure between the bottom
and middle crossbars for an exact length. Cut the decorative verticals to
length. Mark all three crossbars at 5", 10", and 15".
4. Center the verticals at the marks. Check for square and weld in place.
Finish all welds.
Weld the crossbars to the legs.

CREATE THE DECORATIVE ARCHES

1. Make a bending jig by attaching a 9"-diameter half circle and 10"-long
squares to a 15 × 19" rectangle. Slide a decorative arch piece (E) between
the stops and bend it around the curve (see photo).
2. Place two hoops between the top and middle crossbars aligned with the
legs and the 10" mark. Mark where the legs cross the middle crossbar, cut,
and weld in place.
3. Place a hoop with one leg at the 5" mark and the other at the 15" mark.
Mark, cut, and weld (see photo).
4. Cut a hoop in half and place the halves starting from the 5" and 15". Weld
in place.
5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 for the other side panel.
Make a bending jig to create the hoops for the decorative arches.

FINISH THE ARCHES

1. Remove the quarter circles from the bending jig. From the right angles of
the quarter circles, measure in 71/2" along one flat side. At this point, draw
a line perpendicular to the side (see photo). Cut along the line. Repeat with
the second quarter circle.
2. Mount these two arches at the top of a 4× 8 sheet of plywood, abutting
them together on the new cuts to create a template for the arches. Place
stop blocks 1" from the arch.
3. Place the other arch into the right side of the jig. Mark the centerline, and
cut.
4. Place both arches back into the jig and weld together at the peak. Repeat
steps 3 and 4 for the second arch. Remove the arch jig from the plywood
 sheet.

Align the top of the hoop with the top crossbar and mark where the legs cross the middle crossbar.

ASSEMBLE THE ARCHWAY

1. Cut the sleeves (F) to length. Cut the arch crossbars (G) to length.
2. Mark two parallel lines 45" apart on the sides of the plywood. Attach 2× 4
clamping blocks along these lines.
3. Clamp the two side panels, lying on their backs, to the jig.
4. Slide sleeves into the legs 1", and weld in place.
5. Slide an arch over the sleeves and weld in place (see photo). Repeat with
the second arch.
6. Weld a crossbar (G) between the two arches at the peak. Weld crossbars
spaced 9" apart on the sides of the arches (see photo).
After bending the main arches, remove the quarter circles from the jig. Mark in 71/2" from one flat edge
and cut the form down.

MAKE THE GATE FRAME

1. Cut the gate uprights (H) and crossbars (I) to length.
2. Lay out the two gate frames with the crossbars on the top and bottom of the
uprights. Place the third crossbar 10" from the top of the uprights. Check
for square, and tack weld together. Check the diagonals and adjust if
necessary. Finish the welds.
3. Cut the gate verticals (J) to length. Mark all three crossbars at 53/16",
103/16", and 153/16". Center the verticals at the marks. Check for square,
and weld in place (see photo).
4. Make and assemble the gate decorative arches using the same method as
described under Create the Decorative Arches.

INSTALL THE GATE

1. Stand the archway upright. Using scrap metal or wood, clamp the archway
legs so that the space between the legs is 45" and the panels are parallel.
2. Align the gates flush with a set of legs (the legs and gate are flush front to
back) and clamp in place. Allow a slight gap between the gates and legs
(the gap is between the legs and gate side to side).
3. Tack weld the hinges (K) in place (see photo). Remove the clamps holding
the gates and check that the gates swing freely. Adjust if necessary and
complete the welds. Install the gate latch (L).

FINISH THE ARCHWAY

1. If you plan to finish the archway, sand or wire brush or sandblast it. Apply
the finish of your choice.
2. Install the archway by clamping the side panels 45" apart.
3. On the ground where the arch will be installed, mark a 21× 46" rectangle.
At the corners of the rectangle, pound the mounting stakes 1' into the
ground. Lift the archway onto the mounting stakes and remove the clamps.

Clamp the sides to clamping blocks on a 4 × 8 sheet of plywood. Slide the main arches over the angle iron
Clamp the sides to clamping blocks on a 4 × 8 sheet of plywood. Slide the main arches over the angle iron
sleeves in the legs.

Weld the arch crossbars to the arches.

Center the gate verticals at the marks and weld in place.

Use shims and clamps to hold the gates in place. Weld the base, pin the side of the hinge to the frame,
and the top to the gate.
GAZEBO
This moderate-size gazebo is also a special addition to any yard. Big enough
for a table and chairs, it is small enough to fit in all but the tiniest of yards.
Covered with vines in the summer, it provides delightful shade. In the off-
season it supplies a point of visual interest with its scrolling patterns.

Want a different scroll pattern? Simply peruse the online catalogs of the
companies listed in the Resources for dozens of alternative patterns.

The directions here describe how to build door, window, and roof panels. The
material quantities are for a gazebo with three door panels and three window
panels. You can choose to construct your gazebo with any combination, just
remember to adjust your quantities list accordingly.
MATERIALS
• 4" finial (1, Decorative Iron #126)
• 1 × 1" square tube (344')
• 3/16" round rod (1,000')
• 1/2" round tube (6')
• 3/8" round rod (101/2')
• 1/4" round rod (3')
• 41/2" drip trays (2)
• 2" round tube (2")
• 1/2× 6" carriage bolt, nut, and washer (1)
• 3/4" round rod or rebar (9')

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Legs 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 80" 12
B Door frames 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 96" 6
C Top crossbars 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 54" 6
 D Bottom crossbars 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 52" 6
E Window frames 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 40" 6
F Window crossbars 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 30"* 6
G Roof sides 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 661/2" 12
H Roof bases 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 61" 6
I Roof crossbars 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 61"* 6
J Hinge barrels 16-gauge 1/2" round tube× 3" 24
K Hinge pins 3/ " round rod× 71/ " 12
8 2

L Finial pegs 1/ " round rod× 6" 6

4

M Finial sleeve 16-gauge 2" round tube× 2" 1

N Finial 4" 1
O Drip trays 41/2" 2
P Roof pegs 3/ " round rod× 3" 12
8

Q Peg sleeves 16-gauge 1/2" round tube× 3" 12

R Window scrolls 3/ " round rod× 24" 30
16

S Roof scrolls 3/ " round rod× 36" 24

16

T Diagonals 3/ " round rod× varied* 624

16

* Cut to fit.
HOW TO BUILD A GAZEBO
Before welding, thoroughly clean all parts with denatured alcohol.

MAKE THE DOOR PANELS

1. Cut two legs (A), two door frames (B), a top crossbar (C), and bottom
crossbar (D) to length. Miter one end of each leg at 45° and both ends of
the top crossbar at 45°.
2. Lay out the legs, top crossbar, and bottom crossbar to form a rectangle. The
bottom crossbar fits between the legs.
3. Check the rectangle for square, and tack weld all corners.
4. Mark the door frames at 24". Using a conduit bender, bend the frames at
the mark to 50° (see photo).
5. Place the door frames inside the assembled panel frame. Align the door
frames 8" in from the panel sides. Mark vertical lines on the door frames
where they overlap at the peak. Cut on the marks, and tack weld the door
frame arch together.
6. Align the door frame arch inside the panel frame with the point of the arch
touching the top crossbar. Mark the legs where they cross the bottom
crossbar. Cut the legs to length. Tack weld the door frame to the top and
bottom crossbars.
7. Repeat steps 1 through 6 to make the desired number of door panels.
Complete the welds.

MAKE THE WINDOW PANELS

1. Cut two window frames (E) and a window crossbar (F) to length.
2. Mark the window frames at 24". Using a conduit bender, bend the frames
at the mark to 50° (see photo).
3. Lay out the window frames with the window crossbar between two legs
(A). Mark the vertical line at the peak where the frames cross each other.
Cut the frames on the line, and tack weld together.
4. Trim the legs to length, if necessary. Tack weld the window crossbar in
place. Put the window frame aside for later installation.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 to make the desired number of window panels.
MAKE THE ROOF PANELS
1. Cut two roof sides (G) to length. Miter one end of each side at 29°. Align
the mitered edges, and tack weld.
2. Cut a roof base (H) to size. Evenly align it underneath the sides. Mark
where the sides cross the base. Cut on this line. Tack weld the base to the
sides.
3. Cut a roof crossbar (I) to size. Place the crossbar 5" up from the roof base
and mark the angles where the roof sides cross the crossbar (see photo).
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3 to make the remaining five roof panels. Complete the
welds.

ASSEMBLE THE GAZEBO

Assembling the gazebo before all the decorations are added makes it lighter
and easier to maneuver. In addition, if a panel is slightly skewed, it is easier
to make corrections without having to rearrange decorative elements.
Because the hinges will be perfectly aligned only for one arrangement, make
sure you assemble the panels in the order desired.
1. Cut the hinge barrels (J) and pins (K) to length. With a bench vise, bend a
right angle 1/2" in from one end of each pin.
2. Slide a pin into two barrels. Place two panels on the floor or upright against
a wall. Place the barrels against the joint between the panels at 20" from
the top. Tack weld one barrel to one panel and the other barrel to the
second panel (see photo).
3. Tack weld another hinge to the panels at about 20" from the bottom.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the two other sets of two panels.
5. With the panels standing, arrange the three sets of two panels to form a
hexagon. The angle between each panel pair should be 120°.
6. Install hinges at the remaining three panel joints.
Create the window and door arches by bending the tubing with a large conduit bender.

ASSEMBLE THE FINIAL

1. Cut the finial pegs (L) to length. Bend the finial pegs in half to 110°.
Support the roof sections on a cinder block or stool, and tack weld a finial
peg to the point of each roof section (see photo).
2. Cut the finial sleeve (M) to length.
3. Weld the finial (N) to the center of one drip tray (O) on the convex side.
4. Grind down the head of a 1/2 × 6" carriage bolt until it matches the concave
curve of the drip tray. Weld the carriage bolt to the middle of the concave
side of the drip tray from step 3 (see photo).
5. Center the finial sleeve over the bolt and weld in place. Drill a 9/16" hole
through the center of the second drip tray.
6. With the peaks of the roof panels resting on a cinder block or low stool,
slide the finial assembly over the finial pegs. Bend the finial pegs if
necessary to fit inside the finial sleeve.

ASSEMBLE THE ROOF

Assembling the roof is easiest with an assistant or two.
1. Cut the roof pegs (P) and peg sleeves (Q) to length.
2. Weld two sleeves to the tops of each side panel 3/4" in from the sides of the
legs (see photo).
3. Measure the distance between a pair of sleeves. Use this measurement to
mark the peg locations on a roof panel. Grind the pegs to 60° on one end,
and weld the ground end to the roof panel.
4. With the side panels assembled, place a roof section on top of a wall panel,
sliding the pegs into the sleeves. Have an assistant hold up the center of the
roof, or create a wood support.
5. Place the remaining roof sections. Slide the finial over the finial pegs, slide
the drip cup over the bolt, and install the washer and nut.
6. Adjust roof and finial pegs as needed.
7. Number or otherwise mark the side and roof panels for reassembly.
8. Remove the finial and take the roof panels down. Disassemble the panels
by pounding out the hinge pins.
Mark the roof crossbar for cutting.
Insert a hinge pin into two hinge barrels. Place the hinge between two side panels, and weld one barrel to
one panel and the other barrel to the adjoining panel.
Support roof sections on a cinder block. Weld the finial pegs to the points of the panels.
Create the finial assembly by welding the finial to the drip tray, then welding the bolt to the drip tray.

MAKE THE WINDOW SCROLLS

1. Cut the scroll blanks (R) to length.
2. Cut a 3/16" slot in a 2" pipe. Place the rod in both slots, then bend the rod
around the outside of the pipe one and a half times (see photo).
3. Place the other end of the rod in the slot and bend one and a half turns
around the outside of the pipe in the opposite direction.
4. Slightly open the bends to create a pleasing scroll.
5. Repeat to form the remaining window scrolls.
6. Weld the scrolls into the window frames as pictured.

MAKE THE ROOF SCROLLS

1. Cut the scroll blanks (S) to length.
2. Cut a 3/16" slot in a 3" pipe. Place the rod through both slots, then bend the
rod around the outside of the pipe one and a half times.
3. Place the other end of the rod in the slot and bend one and a half turns
around the outside of the pipe in the opposite direction.
4. Slightly open or close the bends to make the scroll fit between the roof
base and roof crossbar.
5. Repeat for the other roof scrolls.
6. Weld the scrolls between the roof base and roof crossbar.

ADD DECORATION TO THE ROOF

You can make the roof a simple diamond pattern.
1. To make the diagonals (T), mark the roof sides every 6" down from the
peak and 6" down from the roof crossbar. Lay out two rods from the peak
marks to the opposite first two marks on the roof crossbar to match the
roof panel diagram (shown here). Cut the rods to fit, and weld in place.
2. Mark the diagonals from step 1 every 6".
3. Make the internal diagonals by cutting pieces to fit between the marks on
the right side and base. Weld in place.
4. Finish the internal diagonals by cutting pieces to fit between the marks on
the left side and base. Weld in place.
Weld the roof sleeves to the tops of the side panels.

ADD DIAGONAL FILLER TO SIDE PANELS

Diagonal rods can fill the space below and above the windows, or you can
add scrolls and hearts.
1. On the door panels, mark the legs, door frames, and top crossbars every 8".
2. Cut diagonals to fit between the marks.
3. Weld the descending left to right diagonals in place, then weld the
ascending left to right diagonals in place.
4. On the window panels, mark the legs, top and bottom crossbars, window
frames, and window crossbars every 8". Align the window frame between
the legs, 8" in from each side with the 8" marks aligned. The bottom of the
window should be 32" from the bottom crossbar.
5. Cut diagonals to fit between the marks on the window frame and legs.
6. Cut diagonals to fit between the marks on the crossbars and the window
frames and window crossbars.
7. Weld the descending left to right diagonals in place, then weld the
ascending left to right diagonals in place.
Cut a 3/16" notch in a 2" pipe to create the bending jig for the scrolls. Slide the rod into the notch, then
bend the rod around the pipe.

FINISH THE GAZEBO

1. Wire brush or sand blast the gazebo. Finish as desired. Note: Take care to
track the panel numbers so you can reassemble the gazebo.
2. Reassemble the gazebo.
3. For at least three corners of the gazebo, pound 3' lengths of 3/4" round bar
or 18" rebar into the ground, and slide the leg ends over the bars.
ARBOR
This distinctive arbor will add a touch of class to any garden. Modeled after
the prairie style, its clean lines are straightforward to cut and weld, and they
provide plenty of climbing support for a variety of vines. The 1/2" inserts are
placed flush with the back of the 1" sides and ends, eliminating the need for
difficult centering and giving an increased sense of depth. The arbor can be
made from the 6' steel lengths available at home improvement centers, but
because of the amount of steel used, a trip to a steel supplier might be
worthwhile, especially if you have a way to transport 20' lengths. The 1/2"
square tube bows quite easily, so if you do buy 20' lengths, make sure they
are well supported in transit. Otherwise, they will bow and not be suitable for
the vertical inserts.
MATERIALS
 • 16-gauge 1 × 1" square tube (44')
• 16-gauge 1/2 × 1/2" square tube (100')
• Wood scraps

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Panel sides 16-gauge 1 × 1" square tube × 72" 4
B Panel ends 16-gauge 1 × 1" square tube × 151/2" 4
C Panel vertical inserts 16-gauge 1/2 × 1/2" square tube × 631/2" 6

D Horizontal inserts 16-gauge 1/2 × 1/2" square tube × 31/2" 100

E Diagonal inserts 16-gauge 1/2 × 1/2" square tube × 12"* 24
F Roof ends 16-gauge 1 × 1" square tube × 151/2" 4
G Roof sides 16-gauge 1 × 1" square tube × 251/2" 4
H Roof vertical inserts 16-gauge 1/2 × 1/2" square tube × 231/2" 6

*Approximate dimension, cut to fit.

HOW TO BUILD AN ARBOR
ASSEMBLE THE PANELS
Set up the project on a sheet of 3/4" plywood placed on sawhorses. Make sure
the plywood is not bowed or it will cause misalignment of the project pieces.
Working on a raised surface is easier than working on the floor, and you can
clamp the metal to the plywood. Remember to clamp your work cable to the
workpiece. If you want the arbor wider or narrower than 44", you must adjust
the miter angles for the roof and side panels.
1. Cut the panel sides (A) to size, mitering one end at 30°. The mitered end is
the top. Cut the panel ends (B), vertical inserts (C), and horizontal inserts
(D) to size.
2. Place a panel end between the top of two panel sides, keeping the outside
edge of the panel end flush with the short ends of the mitered panel sides.
Clamp the pieces in place.
3. Position three vertical inserts between the two panel sides. (This is just to
hold the bottom panel end in place. The exact location of the inserts is not
important at this time.)
4. Place the bottom panel end between the panel sides, keeping it snug
against the vertical inserts. Clamp the bottom panel end in place.
5. Remove the vertical inserts. Use a carpenter’s square to check the panel
sides and ends for square. Tack weld each corner. Check for square again
by measuring the two diagonals (see photo). If the measurements are equal,
the panel is square. If not, adjust the workpieces until the diagonals are the
same.
6. Turn the panel over and complete the welds at the four corners. Grind the
tack welds flat so the panel lies flat on the work surface.
Check the panel for square by measuring the diagonals. If the measurements are equal, the assembly is
square.
Weld the diagonal inserts to the panel framework and to the center vertical insert.
Make clamping blocks out of wood scraps. Clamp the roof panels to the blocks. Place two or three tack
welds along the joint between the panel ends.

ATTACH THE VERTICAL & HORIZONTAL INSERTS

1. Replace the vertical inserts between the panel sides. Place several
horizontal inserts between the vertical inserts and the panel sides to ensure
the correct spacing of the vertical inserts.
2. Weld the vertical inserts to the panel top and bottom.
3. Place the horizontal inserts into the vertical framework every 31/2". (Use
horizontal inserts as spacers.)
4. Starting at the top of the panel, use a combination square to align the first
row of horizontal inserts. Once they are aligned, weld them in place.
5. Continue aligning and welding the inserts one row at a time. If the vertical
inserts are bowed side to side, use a clamp to hold them against the inserts.
If they bow upward, weigh them down with a sandbag or other weight.

INSERT THE DIAGONAL INSERTS

1. Cut four diagonal inserts (E) to size, mitering one end at 45°.
2. Place two diagonal inserts against the bottom edge of the top panel. The
mitered ends of the inserts should butt together over the middle vertical
insert. Mark the other end of the diagonal inserts where they cross the top
panel so they will fit in the corner.
3. Make the angled cuts on the diagonal inserts.
4. Grind down the welds that will be underneath the diagonal inserts so they
will lie flat. Weld the diagonal inserts in place (see photo).
5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 to weld the diagonal inserts to the bottom of the panel.
6. Cut four more diagonal inserts, mitering both ends at 45°.
7. Center these four inserts over the eighth row of horizontal inserts to form a
diamond shape. Weld the inserts in place.
8. Repeat this entire process to construct a second panel.

BUILD THE ROOF PANELS

1. Construct two roof panels following the same procedure used for the side
panels, except with no central diamond insert.
2. Stand the roof panels on edge and join the mitered ends to form the 120°
angle for the roof peak.
3. Clamp the roof panels in place. (You may need to attach temporary
wooden clamping points to the work surface by fastening 1 × 2 or 2 × 4
scraps to match the layout. Clamp the panels to the scraps.) Place two or
three tack welds along the joint between the panel ends (see photo).

FASTEN THE ROOF TO THE SIDES

1. Place a side panel on edge, and set it against one side of the roof panel.
Line them up so the mitered edge of the side panel is making contact with
the bottom edge of the roof panel. Clamp the panels in place.
2. Tack weld the panels at two points along the joint (see photo).
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other side panel.
4. Measure the distance between the tops and the bottoms of the side panels
to ensure the panels are an equal distance apart at both ends.
5. Check the panels for square by measuring the diagonals. Make any
necessary adjustments, and make sure the roof assembly is still fitted
against the side panels.
6. Weld all the mitered roof peak joints and the mitered joints between the
side panels and the roof panels.

FINISHING TOUCHES
To prevent putting stress on the welds, and to maintain the arbor’s shape,
clamp wooden crosspieces between the panel sides before moving it.
1. The easiest finish for the arbor is to allow it to gently rust over the years.
You may want to place plastic end caps over the exposed tube ends on the
roof, or you can weld on small caps.
2. The arbor can sit on the ground or can be mounted in concrete footings. If
you live in a windy location, you may want to drive four lengths of rebar
into the ground and slip the arbor legs over them.

Place tack welds along the joint between the roof and side panels.
PATIO BENCH
Finding time to relax just became easier. Create a private area to place this
custom patio bench to enjoy those evenings listening to the sounds of nature
or enjoy the stars.
MATERIALS
• 1 ×1" 11-gauge HRS square tubing (two 24’ lengths)
• 19 × 15" 10-gauge HRS sheet
• 1 × 1" 11-gauge HRS angle iron (40" length)
• 3/16 × 11/4" HRS flat bar (eleven 10’ lengths)

PART DIMENSIONS STOCK QUANTITY

A 3513/16" 1 × 1" 11-gauge HRS square tubing 2

B 16" 1 × 1" 11-gauge HRS square tubing 3

C 28" 1 × 1" 11-gauge HRS square tubing 3
D 22" 1 × 1" 11-gauge HRS square tubing 3
E 20" 1 × 1" 11-gauge HRS square tubing 6
F 161/2" 1 × 1" 11-gauge HRS square tubing 4
G 43/4 × 18" 10-gauge HRS sheet 3
H 1" 1 × 1" 11-gauge HRS angle iron 30
I 38" 3/ 1
16 × 1 /4" HRS flat bar 33
HOW TO BUILD A PATIO BENCH
CUT & ASSEMBLE THE FRAME
Cut parts A and B. Position part B between the two pieces of part A, centered
along the lengths. Measure and check for squareness, and then weld all joints
of this frame (see photo).

[Link] three lengths of part C. Cut one end of each piece at an 80° angle,
removing approximately 1/4" of material. Assemble and tack on one piece
of part C at each end of parts A. Make sure the angled end is attached
along the frame to allow for a 10° slope to the back.
2. Cut three lengths of part D. Cut six lengths of part E, mitering each end at a
10° angle. Make sure the angles are parallel to one another. Cut four pieces
of part F.
3. Align and tack weld one leg to each corner of the frame, and center two
additional legs along the length of part A (see photo).
4. Align and tack weld braces F and D (see photo).

Measure and check for squareness, and then weld all joints of this frame.
Align and tack weld one leg to each corner of the frame.
Tack weld brace F to brace D.
Layout and cut the seat sides, as shown.
Attach the angle iron to the seat sides.

LAY OUT & ASSEMBLE THE SEAT

1. Lay out and cut the seat sides, Part G, as shown (see photo).
2. Cut the 30 pieces of part H. Attach the two seat sides (part G) (see photo).
3. Weld the seat sides to the frame (see photo).
4. Cut the third seat plate to fit along the center brace as shown.

ATTACH SEAT & BACK

Cut the 33 seat backpieces (I). Attach them, spaced 2" on center; allow for a
1/ " space between the slats (see photo).
8
Weld the seat sides to the frame.
Attach the seat and back material.
GARDEN TUBE WATERFALL
Fabricate a work of art that will also
provide a calming effect for any
room or living space. The sound of
the water gently moving through the
waterfall and cascading over the
rocks will help provide a relaxing
atmosphere after a day of work.

Work with your local home center to

locate the appropriate pump and
tube. Ask for help in the garden
center with water garden supplies.

Before welding, clean all parts to

remove mill scale and any oil
residue. Wipe clean with denatured
alcohol, then grind any remaining
mill scale 1/2" wide through any areas
to be welded.
MATERIALS

• 2 × 2" 11-gauge HRS square tubing (18', 3" length)

• 14-gauge CRS sheet (151/2 × 36")
• Small water pump
• Decorative gravel or rocks
• Clear plastic tubing to fit pump (60")

PART DIMENSIONS STOCK QUANTITY

A 48" 2 × 2" 11-gauge HRS square tubing 2
B 36" 2 × 2" 11-gauge HRS square tubing 2
C 24" 2 × 2" 11-gauge HRS square tubing 2
D 3 × 6" 14-gauge CRS sheet 2
E 3 × 36" 14-gauge CRS sheet 2
F 6 × 36" 14-gauge CRS sheet 1
HOW TO BUILD A GARDEN TUBE WATERFALL
FABRICATING THE FRAME
1. Cut two pieces of part A and two pieces of part B, cutting each end to a 45°
angle.
2. On one piece of part A, lay out and cut a 1 × 1" square hole, centered 6"
from the lower side of the 45° bevel, (see photo). On this same part, cut or
drill a 3/4" hole on center, 12" up from the short point of the 45° bevel.
3. Tack the frame together as shown. Measure to check for squareness (see
photo), then weld all joints. Remember, the lower weld joints must be
watertight.

Cut a 1 ×1" hole in the center of part A.

Check for square.
Cut one end of square tubing to 45 angle.
Cut a rectangular hole on center of part C.

ADDING THE CROSS TUBE

1. Cut two pieces of part C, cutting one end to a 45° angle, the other end to a
5° angle (see photo).
2. On one end of part C, lay out and cut a 11/4 × 2" rectangular hole on center,
9" from the upper side of the 5° bevel (see photo).
3. Center and weld the cross tubes.

FABRICATE THE RESERVOIR

1. Cut parts D, E, and F. Center and tack part D, one on each end parts A.
2. Align and tack part F along the underside of the frame and part D.
3. Align and tack part E, one on each side of part D, to form the reservoir.
4. Weld all seams in small increments, 1" to 2" apart. These seams must be
watertight (see photo).
5. Add pump gravel, and feed plastic tube through the vertical upright, as
shown (see photo).

Weld the seams of the reservoir.

Feed the plastic tube through the vertical upright.
APPENDIX: ADDITIONAL PLANS

SCROLL DESK LAMP

MATERIALS
• 1/8 × 3/4" flat bar (15")
• 1/2" round tube (9")
• 1/8 × 1/2" flat bar (36")
• 1/2", 1", and 2" pipe
• Lamp hardware and shade
• 3/8" hollow threaded rod (1")

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Bases 1/ 3/ " flat bar × 5"
8× 4 3
B Shaft 1/
2" round tube × 9" 1
C Scrolls 1/ 1/ " flat bar × 12"
8× 2 3
TREE-SHAPED CANDLEHOLDER

MATERIALS
• 3/16" sheet (8 × 10")
• 3/16 × 2" flat bar (5')
• Votive holders and candles
• Silicone adhesive
PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY
A Base 3/
16" sheet × 8 × 10" 1

B Trunk 3/
16 × 2" flat bar × 20" 1
C Bottom branches 3/
16 × 2" flat bar × 8" 2
D Middle branches 3/
16 × 2" flat bar × 6" 2
E Top branches 3/
16 × 2" flat bar × 4" 2
FIREPLACE CANDLEHOLDER

MATERIALS
• 4 × 8" scrolls (2)
• 1/2" twisted square rod (5")
• 1/2" square rod (7')
• 33/8" bobeches (8)
• Candles (8)
 PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY
A Scrolls 4 × 8" 2
B Center post 1/
2" twisted square rod × 5" 1

C Front extenders 1/
2" square rod × 1" 2
D Middle extenders 1/
2" square rod × 2" 2
E Rear extender 1/
2" square rod × 3" 1
F Rear posts 1/
2" square rod × 6" 2
G Crosspieces 1/
2" square rod × 16"* 2

H Side pieces 1/
2" square rod × 10" 2
I Bobeches 33/8" 8

*Approximate dimensions, cut to fit.

WALL-MOUNTED CANDLEHOLDER

MATERIALS
• 1/2" square bar (14')
• 21/4" bobeche (9)
• Candles (9)

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Horizontal bars 1/
2" square bar × 32" 2
B Vertical bars 1/ 1
2" square bar × 11 /2" 9
C Bobeches 21/4" 9
CHANDELIER

MATERIALS
• 1/8 × 3/4" flat bar (17')
• 10", 6", 2", and 1" bending forms
• 21/4" round tube (4")
• 21/2" bobeches (5)
• 2" threaded nipple
• Lock washers (2)
• Threaded brass washers (3)
• Finial
• Decorative chain
• Candles (5)
PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY
A C scrolls 1/ 3/ " flat bar × 16"
8× 4 5

B S scrolls 1/ 3/ " flat bar × 24"

8× 4 5
C Couplers 21/4" round tube × 2" 2
D Insert 1/ 3/ " flat bar × 4"
8× 4 1
E Bobeches 21/2" 5
CORNER COAT RACK

MATERIALS
• 1/8 × 11/4" flat bar (7')
• 1/8 × 3/4" flat bar (7')
 • Expanded sheet metal (2 × 2')
• 2" pipe
• Hanging hardware

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Rack top 1/ 1
8 × 1 /4" flat bar × 36" 1
B Rack bottom 1/ 3/ " flat bar × 36"
8× 4 1
C Hooks 1/ 3/ " flat bar × 12"
8× 4 4

D Rack front 1/ 1
8 × 1 /4" flat bar × 38"* 1
E Shelf Expanded sheet metal 1
*Approximate dimension, cut to fit.
BAKER’S SHELVES

MATERIALS
• 1/4" round bar (54')
• 16-gauge × 3/4" round tube (131/2')
• 16-gauge × 1/2" round tube (29')
• 4 × 6' plywood • 2 × 4' plywood
• 1 × 2 lumber × 36" (7) • Drywall screws
• 2 × 2 lumber × 36"
• Pre-drilled 3/4" on center flat bar (3')
• 5/16 × 21/2" machine bolts (24)
• 3/4" rubber pipe tips or glides (4)
• Brass or wood finials (2)
• Tempered glass shelves cut to fit (4)

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A C scrolls 1/ 1
4" round bar × 26 /2" 4

B Top S scrolls 1/
4" round bar × 35" 4
C Side S scrolls 1/ 1
4" round bar × 24 /2" 8
D Back legs 3/
4" round tube × 44" 2
E Front legs 3/
4" round tube × 36" 2
F Shelf supports, front & back 1/ 1
2" round tube × 34 /2" 8
G Shelf supports, sides 1/ 1
2" round tube × 8 /2" 8
H Zigzag trim 1/
4" round bar × 48" 4
I Finials 1" brass or wood ball 2
TAPERED-LEG TABLE

MATERIALS
• 1/8" sheet metal (6 × 30" rectangle, 12" square)
• 1/8 × 2" flat bar (21/2')
• 1/2" black pipe (6")

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Legs 1/
8" sheet metal × 3 × 30" 3
B Top 1/
8" sheet metal × 12× 12" right 1
triangle
C Front skirt 1/
8 × 2" flat bar × 12"* 1
 D Side skirts 1/ 2
8 × 2" flat bar × 7"*

* Approximate dimensions, cut to fit.

ONE PIECE PLANT STAND
MATERIALS
• CRS sheet 14 ga. 20.5" × 14"

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A CRS Sheet 14 ga. 20.5" × 14" 1
COAT TREE

MATERIALS
• 6’ Sch 40 11/2" pipe
• 30" HRS Bar 3/8"× 11/4"
• 7" HRS Bar 3/16"× 11/4" (3)
• 12" HRS Solid 1/2" (3)
• 24" HRS Solid 1/2" (3)
• 6" HRS Solid 1/2" (3)
PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY
A Sch 40 Pipe 6’× 1 1/2" 1
B HRS Bar 30× 3/8× 1 1/4" 3

C HRS Bar 7× 3/16× 1 1/4" 3

D HRS Solid 12× 1/2" 3
E HRS Solid 24× 1/2" 3
F HRS Solid 6× 1/2" 3
COAT RACK
MATERIALS
• 16-gauge 1/2× 1/2" square tube (58')
• 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube (50')
• 4" O.D. square tube rings (20, Triple S Steel #SR 4)
• 1/8× 1" round tube (39")
• 1/8× 1/2" flat bar (39')
• 11/2" spheres (8, Triple S Steel SF116F4)

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Legs 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 68" 4
B Side crossbars 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 19" 4
C Center supports 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 66" 2
D Side horizontals 16-gauge 1/2× 1/2" square tube× 9" 24

E Verticals 16-gauge 1/2× 1/2" square tube× 4" 60

F Circles 4" O.D. square tube rings 20
G Crossbars 16-gauge 1× 1" square tube× 39" 3
H Back horizontals 16-gauge 1/2× 1/2" square tube× 39" 6
I Shelf supports 16-gauge 1/2× 1/2" square tube× 19" 2

J Shelf rods 1/ × 1/ " flat bar× 39" 12

8 2

K Hanging rod 1/ × 1" round tube× 39" 1

8

L Spheres 11/2" 8
WINDOW BOX

MATERIALS
• 1 × 1/2 × 1/8" channel (18')
• 1" square tube (20")
• 1/2" square tube (16')
• 1/2" square bar (8')
• 1/8 × 1/2" flat bar (141/2')
• 1/8 × 1" flat bar (8")
• Finials (2, Architectural Iron #83/4)

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Front crossbars 1× 1/2× 1/8" channel× 521/2" 3
B End posts 1" 16-gauge square tube× 10" 2
C Uprights 1/ 1
2" 16-gauge square tube× 4 /4" 42
D Side crossbars 1× 1/2× 1/8" channel× 87/8" 6

E Base 1/ 1
2" square bar× 54 /2" 1

F Base crossbars 1/ 3
2" square bar× 9 /4" 4
G C scrolls 1/ 1/ " flat bar× 101/ "
8× 2 2 16
H Mounting brackets 1/
8× 1" flat bar× 2" 4
HANGING CHANDELIER

MATERIALS
• 3/16" round rod (24')
• 23/8" bobeches (6, Architectural Iron Designs #79/6)
• Candle cups (6, Architectural Iron Designs #78/4)
• 81/2" acanthuses (6, Architectural Iron Designs #11942 81/2)
• 1" teardrop crystals (24, Chandelierparts)
• 3" hangdrop crystal prisms (5, Chandelierparts)
• 3" teardrop prisms (12, Chandelierparts)

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Scrolls 3/
16" round rod× 36" 6
B Candle arms 3/
16" round rod× 3"* 6
C Rings 3/ 1
16" round rod× 9 /2"* 2
D Crossbar 3/
16" round rod× 3" 1
E Hanger 3/
16" round rod× 6" 1
F Hanging ring 3/
16" round rod× 4"* 1
G Bobeches (drip trays) 23/8" 6
 H Candle cups 11/4× 11/4" 6

I Acanthus leaves 11/4× 81/2" 6

J Teardrop crystals 1" 24

K Hangdrop crystal prisms 3" 5
L Teardrop prisms 3" 12
* Approximate dimensions, cut to fit.
VOTIVE LANTERN WITH CHAIN AND HOLDER
MATERIALS
• 22-gauge sheet metal (3, 6× 18" sheets)
• Glass (7× 11")
• 1/8" round rod (4')
• 1/4" round rod (26")
• 3/16" sheet metal (10× 10")
• Hardwood stick
• 11/4" wire nails (7)

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Sides 22-gauge sheet metal × 6× 18" 1
 B Door 22-gauge sheet metal × 6× 6" 1
C Base 22-gauge sheet metal × 6× 6" 1
D Top 22-gauge sheet metal × 9× 6" 1
E Glass 31/2 × 51/2" 4
F Tabs 22-gauge sheet metal × 3/4"* 12
G Eyelets 11/4" wire nails 3
H Hinges 11/4" wire nails 3
I Hook 11/4" wire nail 1

J Hanger 1/
8" round rod× 2" 1
K Arm 1/
4" round rod× 26" 1
L Stand base 3/
16" sheet metal× 10× 10" 1
M Chain 1/
8" round rod× 36"

*Cut to fit.
LAUNDRY-TUB PLANTER

MATERIALS
• 3/8" round bar (30')
• 1/8× 1" flat bar (9')
• 101/2 gal. laundry tub (1, Main St. Supply)
• 1/2" plywood (4× 4 sheet)
• 2× 4 scraps
• Wood screws
• 3/16" round bar (10')

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A Tub 101/2 gallon 1
B Tub support 3/
8" round bar× 60"* 1
C Base 3/
8" round bar× 56"* 1
D Crossbars 1/
8× 1" flat bar× 27"* 4
E Legs 3/
8" round bar× 25" 4
F Leg braces 3/
16" round bar× 10" 8
 G C-scroll 3/ 2
16" round bar× 15"

* Approximate dimensions, cut to fit.

THREE POST FLOOR LAMP

MATERIALS
• 1/2" round tube (483/8")
• 1/2" twisted square rod (96")
• 3/16" sheet (10 × 10")
• 3/16 × 2" flat bar (8")
• 1" round balls (4)
• Lamp hardware and shade
PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY
A Base 3/
16" sheet 10 × 10" 1
B End caps 3/
16" flat bar 2 × 4" 2

C Center post 1/ 3
2" round tube 48 /8" 1
D Side posts 1/
2" twisted rod 48" 2
PATIO PLANTER STACK

MATERIALS
• CRS sheet 14 ga. 12× 12" (3)
• CRS sheet 14 ga. 6× 12" (12)
• HRS steel angel iron 1/8× 1× 1× 4" (8)

PART NAME DIMENSIONS QUANTITY

A CRS sheet 14 ga. 12"× 12" 3
B CRS sheet 14 ga. 6"× 12" 12
C HRS steel angle iron 1/ 8
8× 1"× 1"× 4"
GLOSSARY

Active gas A gas, such as oxygen, that will react with other substances.

Alloy A substance composed of two or more metals or a metal and other

non-metal material.

Arc welding Welding processes that use an electric arc to produce heat to melt
and fuse the base metals. Often used to refer specifically to shielded
metal arc welding (SMAW).

Backfire and flashback Combustion taking place inside the oxyacetylene torch creating a
loud pop or explosion.

Base metal The metal that is being welded, brazed, braze welded, or cut.

Bead or weld bead The seam between workpieces that have been joined with welding.

Braze A process used to join metals using a non-ferrous material that

melts above 850°F but below the melting point of the base metal.
Brazing uses capillary action to join closely fitted parts.

Braze welding A process used to join metals with a filler material that melts above
840°F and below the melting point of the base metal where the filler
metal is not distributed by capillary action.

Butt joint A joint between two workpieces in the same plane.

Carburizing flame An oxyfuel flame with an excess of fuel.

Consumable electrode An electrode that also serves as the filler material.

Corner joint A joint between workpieces meeting at right angles and forming an
L shape.

Cutting tip Converts an oxyfuel welding torch into an oxyfuel cutting torch.

Direct current electrode Direct current welding where the electrode is negative and the
negative workpiece is positive.

Direct current electrode Direct current welding where the electrode is positive and the
positive workpiece is negative.

Duty cycle The amount of continuous time in a 10-minute period that an arc
welder can run before it needs to cool down. Expressed as a
 percentage at a given amperage output.

Edge joint A joint between parallel workpieces.

Electrode The conductive element that makes the connection with the work-
piece to create an electrical arc.

FCAW Flux cored arc welding.

Filler, filler metal Metal added to a welded joint.

Fillet weld A triangular shaped weld between two members that meet at 90°
angles.

Flame cutting See oxyfuel cutting.

Flux A chemical compound that produces cleaning action and reduces

the formation of oxides when heated.

Flux core, flux cored wire An electrode for flux cored arc welding that contains flux within a
wire tube.

Flux cored arc welding A semi-automatic arc welding process using an electrode wire that
(FCAW) contains flux.

Gas metal arc welding A semi-automatic arc welding process using a wire electrode, which
(GMAW) also is the filler material. An inert gas is distributed over the weld
area to shield the molten metal from oxygen. Commonly referred to
as MIG (metal inert gas) or wire feed.

Gas tungsten arc welding An arc welding process using a tungsten electrode, hand-held filler
(GTAW) material, and an inert shielding gas. Also referred to as TIG (tungsten
inert gas) and heliarc.

GMAW Gas metal arc welding.

Groove weld A weld made in grooves between workpieces.

GTAW Gas tungsten arc welding.

Heliarc Gas tungsten arc welding.

Inert gas A non-reactive or non-combining gas, such as argon or helium.

Kerf The width of a cut.

Lap joint A joint between overlapping workpieces.

 MIG Metal inert gas—see gas metal arc welding.

Oxyacetylene cutting Oxyfuel cutting using acetylene as the fuel gas.

Oxyacetylene welding Oxyfuel welding using acetylene as the fuel gas.

Oxyfuel cutting Cutting process using the combustion of a pressurized fuel gas and
oxygen to heat steel to 1,600°F, at which time a pure oxygen stream
is delivered to burn through the metal. Also called flame cutting.

Oxyfuel welding Welding process that uses the heat produced by the combustion of a
pressurized fuel gas and pressurized oxygen. A hand-held filler
material is used. Also called gas welding.

Plasma cutting An arc cutting process using a constricted arc. Compressed air or
inert gas blows the molten metal from the kerf.

Plate Flat metal thicker than 3/16".

Saddle joint A joint between round tubes where one tube has been cut to fit
around the other.

Sheet metal Flat metal 3/16" or less in thickness.

Shielded metal arc An arc welding process using a flux-coated consumable electrode.
welding (SMAW) Also referred to as arc welding or stick welding.

Shielding gas A gas that prevents contaminants from entering the molten weld
pool.

Slag Oxidized impurities formed as a coating over the weld bead; waste
material found along the bottom edge of an oxyfuel cut.

SMAW Shielded metal arc welding.

Spatter Small droplets or balls of metal stuck to the base metal around the
weld. Produced by shielded metal arc, gas metal arc, and flux cored
arc welding.

Stick welding Shielded metal arc welding.

T-joint A joint between workpieces meeting at right angles and forming a T

shape.

TIG Tungsten inert gas—see gas tungsten arc welding.

Wire feed See gas metal arc welding.

RESOURCES
Architectural Iron Designs Inc.
950 South Second Street
Plainfield, NJ 07063
800 784 7444
[Link]

Century Trailer Inc.

868 North Bell Street
San Angelo, TX 76903
800 366 3395
[Link]

[Link]
417 W. Stanton Ave.
Fergus Falls, MN 56537
218 763 7000

Decorative Iron
10600 Telephone Road
Houston, TX 77075
800 639 9063
[Link]

Eastwood Company
263 Shoemaker Road
Pottstown, PA 19464
800 343 9353
[Link]

[Link]
1205-202 Winter Springs Court
Louisville, KY 40243
502 584 3351
[Link]

Garland's Inc.
2501 26th Avenue South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
800 809 7888
[Link]

The Lincoln Electric Company

22801 St. Clair Ave.
Cleveland, OH 44117
216 481 8100
[Link]

M-Boss, Inc.
4400 willow Parkway
Cleveland, OH 44125
866 886 2677
[Link]

Main Street Supply

PO Box 729
Monroe, NC 28111
800 624 8373
[Link]

Miller Electric Manufacturing Co.

1635 W. Spencer St.
PO Box 1079
Appleton, WI 54912
920 734 9821
[Link]

National Ornamental & Miscellaneous

Metals Association (NOMMA)
PO Box 492167
Lawrenceville, GA 30049
888 516 8585
[Link]

Northern Tool + Equipment

2800 Southcross Drive West
Burnsville, MN 55306
800 221 0516
[Link]

[Link]
PO Box 377
Quakertown, PA 18951
215 538 1155
[Link]

SIC Metals & Fabrication, LLC

200 Grand Avenue
Clarion, PA 16214
[Link]

Silent Source
58 Nonotuck Street
Northampton, MA 01062
800 583 7174
[Link]

Toll Gas & Welding Supply

3005 Niagara Lane N.
Plymouth, MN 55447
877 865 5427
[Link]

Triple-S Steel Supply Co.

6000 Jensen Drive
Houston, TX 77026
800 231 1034
[Link]

Wagner Companies
10600 West Brown Deer Road
Milwaukee, WI 53224
888 243 6914
[Link]
PHOTO CREDITS
Devilbis Industrial Finishing
195 Internationale Blvd.
Glendale Heights, IL 60139
630 237 5000
© p. 179

iStock Photo
p. 17 (top)

Lincoln / [Link]
© p. 29, 30 (top), 31, 32 (top)

Miller / [Link]
© p. 4, 8, 32 (lower)

SIC Metals & Fabrication, LLC / [Link]

p. 30 (lower) Brake design courtesy of SIC

SAFETY
Read, understand, and follow safety precautions and rules when welding. In addition to general
safety rules, also reference the material safety data sheet (MSDS) as provided by manufacturers
as well as the American National Standard (ANSI Z49.1) as available at these websites for free
download:
American Welding Society
[Link]
The Lincoln Electric Company
[Link]/community/safety
Welding safety publications available as PDF download (see E205 document).
INDEX
acetone, 16
acetylene, 41
alcohol, denatured, 16
alternating current, 53
alternating current welding machines, 55
aluminum, 12, 21
American Welding Society (AWS), 10, 53
amperage/amps, 52
angle/angle iron, 13
antique finishes, 38, 39
arbor plans, 194, 211
arc, striking an, 74
arc burns, 10
arc welding, 6. See also specific types
arc/arc length, 52
arch and gate plans, 198
argon, 70
AWS (American Welding Society), 10, 53

backfire, 45
baker's shelves plans, 228
base metal, 5
bench plans, 215
bird's nest, 67
braze welding, 51. See also oxyacetylene welding (OAW)
brazing, 50. See also oxyacetylene welding (OAW)
burns, 10

candelabrum plans, 142

candleholder plans
fireplace candleholder, 226
tree-shaped candleholder, 225
wall-mounted candleholder, 226
carbon, 12
carburizing flame, 47
cart plans
cylinder cart, 91
welding cart with cylinder rack, 88
cast iron, 21
chandelier plans, 227, 231. See also lamp plans
channel, 13
check valves, 43
cleaning metals, 16, 20
coat rack plans
coat tree, 229
corner coat rack, 227
fixed coat rack, 120
free-standing coat rack, 230
swing-away coat hooks, 136
coffee table base plans, 110
cold welds, 6
constant current, 52
constant voltage, 52
current/currents, 52, 53
cutouts, 36
cutting techniques
mechanical cutting, 24
oxyacetylene cutting (OAC), 33
See also plasma arc cutting (PAC)
cylinder cart plans, 91. See also welding cart with cylinder rack, plans for
cylinder valves, 41
cylinders, 41

DCEN (direct current electrode negative), 53

DCEP (direct current electrode positive), 53
depressurization, 49
diamond plate, 14
direct current, 53
direct current electrode negative (DCEN), 53
direct current electrode positive (DCEP), 53
direct current welding machines, 55
distortion, heat, 6
duty cycle, 53

electric shock, 11, 54

electrical units, 52
electricity, 52
electrodes, 54, 56, 61, 70
equipment
gas metal arc welding (GMAW), 58, 59, 60, 66
gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW), 68, 73
mechanical cutting, 24
 metal cleaning/preparation, 16
oxyacetylene cutting (OAC), 33
oxyacetylene welding (OAW), 41
plasma arc cutting (PAC), 25, 26, 28
shaping, 37
shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), 55
shop tools, 18
étagère plans
corner étagère, 162
rectangular étagère, 156
explosions, 10
exterior finishes, 39

FCAW (flux-cored arc welding), 61, 65

ferrous metals, 12
filler metals
in brazing, 50
defined, 5
in gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW), 76
matching of, 12, 21
in oxyacetylene welding (OAW), 40
See also metals
finishing, 38
fire, 10
fire bricks, 41
firepit plans, 188
fittings, 43
flame/flame states, 47
flashback, 43, 45
flashback arrestors, 43
flat bar/strap, 13
flux-cored arc welding (FCAW), 61, 65
fluxes, 7, 50, 54
folding screen plans, 124
fuel gases, 34, 40, 49
fumes, 10

garden tube waterfall plans, 220

gas flow rate, 70
gas metal arc welding (GMAW), 58
 about, 58, 59
equipment, 58, 59, 60, 66
procedures, 62
transfer methods, 58
troubleshooting, 67
gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW), 68
about, 68
equipment, 68, 73
procedures, 71, 74
safety, 68, 69
troubleshooting, 76
gases. See fuel gases; shielding gases
gated arch plans, 198
gazebo plans, 204
generator, mechanical, 53
globular transfer, 59
glossary, 234
GMAW (gas metal arc welding). See gas metal arc welding (GMAW)
grinder stand plans, 94
GTAW (gas tungsten arc welding). See gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW)
GTAW machine, 73

heat affected zone (HAZ), 5

heat distortion, 6
Heli-Arc welding. See gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW)
helium, 70
hexagonal bar, 13
high-carbon steel, 12
hole piercing, 36
hoses, 42
hot rolled steel, 16

inverter, 53
iron cross plans, 128

lamp plans
scroll desk lamp, 225
three post floor lamp, 233
See also chandelier plans
lantern plans, 232
laptop/meal table plans, 146
laundry-tub planter plans, 232
leak detection, 44
lens shading, 10, 11

magazine rack plans, 144

mechanical cutting, 24
metal inert gas (MIG) welding. See gas metal arc welding (GMAW)
metals
characteristics of, 12, 14
cleaning/preparation of, 16, 20
purchase/selection of, 5, 15
shapes and sizes of, 13, 15
See also filler metals
MIG (metal inert gas) welding. See gas metal arc welding (GMAW)
mild steel, 12, 21
mill scale, 16
mirror plans, swivel, 114
molten weld pool, 7, 54

nesting tables, plans for, 132

neutral flame, 47
nightstand plans, 138
nonferrous metals, 12

OAC (oxyacetylene cutting), 33

OAW (oxyacetylene welding). See oxyacetylene welding (OAW)
OFW (oxyfuel welding). See oxyfuel welding (OFW)
open-circuit voltage, 52
operating voltage, 52
oxidation, 33
oxidizing flame, 47
oxyacetylene cutting (OAC), 33
oxyacetylene welding (OAW), 40
equipment, 41
overview of, 40
procedures, 44
safety, 41
See also braze welding; brazing
oxyfuel welding (OFW), 49. See also braze welding; brazing; oxyacetylene welding (OAW)

PAC (plasma arc cutting). See plasma arc cutting (PAC)

paint finishes, 38
patio bench plans, 215
penetration, 6
perforated sheet metal, 14
personal protective equipment (PPE), 10, 11, 16
plant stand plans, 229
planter plans
laundry-tub planter, 232
patio planter stack, 233
plasma, 25
plasma arc cutting (PAC), 25
about, 25
equipment, 25, 26, 28
procedures, 27
safety, 26
techniques, 28
troubleshooting, 28
powder coating, 170
power, electric, 52
power sources, 53, 60
PPE (personal protective equipment). See personal protective equipment (PPE)
preheating, 21
preparing metals, 16, 20
pressure regulators/gauges, 42
puddle. See molten weld pool
pulse-spray transfer, 59

rail cap, 13
rectangular tubing, 13
reducing flame, 47
repairs, 20
room divider plans, 124
round bar, 13
round tubing, 13

safety
gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW), 68, 69
general, 5, 10
metal cleaning/preparation, 16
oxyacetylene cutting (OAC), 33, 36
oxyacetylene welding (OAW), 41
plasma arc cutting (PAC), 25
 shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), 54
truck rack construction, 170
saw stand plans, 103
shaping, 37
sheet metal, 13, 14
shelving plans
angled metal shelves, 148
baker's shelves, 228
corner étagère, 162
rectangular étagère, 156
wall-mounted shelf, 152
wine rack, 112
shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), 54
shielding gas flow meter, 61, 63
shielding gas set-up, 63
shielding gases, 7, 54, 61, 70
short-circuit transfer, 58
slag, 7, 33, 54, 56
SMAW (shielded metal arc welding). See shielded metal arc welding (SMAW)
spray transfer, 59
spray-on finishes, 38
square bar, 13
square tubing, 13
stainless steel, 12, 21
stair railing plans, 182
step-down transformer, 53
stick welding. See shielded metal arc welding (SMAW)
striking an arc, 74
stub out/stubbing out, 66
suppliers, 15

table plans
coffee table base, 110
laptop/meal table, 146
nesting tables, 132
nightstand, 138
tapered-leg table, 228
welding table, 84, 96
T-bar, 13
temperature crayons, 21
TIG (tungsten inert gas) welding. See gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW)
tools. See equipment
torch/gun
gas metal arc welding (GMAW), 60
gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW), 69
oxyacetylene cutting (OAC), 34
oxyacetylene welding (OAW), 43, 44
plasma arc cutting (PAC), 26
trailer frame plans, 174
transformer, step-down, 53
trellis plans, 194, 211
troubleshooting
gas metal arc welding (GMAW), 67
gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW), 76
oxyacetylene cutting (OAC), 36
plasma arc cutting (PAC), 28
truck rack plans, 168
tungsten, 71
tungsten inert gas (TIG) welding. See gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW)

ventilation, 10, 17
verdigris finishes, 38
vineyard trellis plans, 194
voltage/volts, 52
votive lantern plans, 232

waterfall plans, 220

wattage, 52
weld fusion, 5
weld strength, 5
welding cart with cylinder rack, plans for, 88
welding curtain plans, 82
welding helmets, 10, 11
welding overview, 5
welding shops, 17, 18
welding table plans, 84, 96
weldment, 5
window box plans, 230
wine rack plans, 112
wire feed set-up, 62
wire feed unit, 59, 60, 60
wire feed welding. See gas metal arc welding (GMAW)
work leads/clamps, 31, 53, 61
© 2009, 2017 The Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.

First published in 2009 by Creative Publishing international, an imprint of The Quarto Group, 401
Second Avenue North, Suite 310, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. This edition published 2017 by Cool
Springs Press. Telephone: (612) 344-8100 Fax: (612) 344-8692

[Link]
Visit our blogs at [Link]

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of
the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior
consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for
any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort
has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied. We apologize for
any inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a
subsequent reprinting of the book.

Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discount for retail, wholesale, promotional, and bulk
purchase. For details contact the Special Sales Manager by email at specialsales@[Link] or by
mail at The Quarto Group, 401 Second Avenue North, Suite 310, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA.

Digital edition: 978-0-76035-774-3

Softcover edition: 978-1-59186-691-6

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Cool Springs Press, author. | Creative Publishing International, author.

Title: Welding complete.
Description: 2nd edition. | Minneapolis : Cool Springs Press, 2017. | “First published in 2009 by
Creative Publishing international, an imprint of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.”--Verso title
page. | Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2016059357 | ISBN 9781591866916 (plc)
Subjects: LCSH: Welding.
Classification: LCC TS227 .W357 2017 | DDC 739/.14--dc23
LC record available at [Link]

Acquiring Editor: Todd Berger

Project Manager: Alyssa Bluhm
Art Director: Brad Springer
Book Designer: Simon Larkin
Layout: Rebecca Pagel
Photography: rau+barber
Edition Editor: Mark Schwendeman