INSTRUCTION MANUAL

IN
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A
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WARRANTY
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case
shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right
to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act
of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL

FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL. P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61801 (217) 398-8970
[email protected]
EXTGP03 V1.0 For GPMA0250 Entire Contents © Copyright 2000
 PREFLIGHT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
TABLE OF CONTENTS Charge the Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Balance the Propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Find a Safe Place to Fly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Ground Check the Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Range Check Your Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Engine Selection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Engine Safety Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Exhaust System Selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPT) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
PREPARATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Required Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Building Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Optional Supplies & Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Important Building Notes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 2-view . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back cover
DIE-CUT PATTERNS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 & 7
Common Abbreviations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Types of Wood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Metric Conversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Get Ready to Build . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Assemble the Stab Sheeting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Build the Stab & Elevators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Finish the Elevators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Finish the Stab Panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Build the Fin & Rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
Build the Fin and Rudder Sheeting . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
Build the Fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Build the Rudder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Your Extra 330L is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated,
BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
working model that functions very much like an actual
Assemble the Wing Jigs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
airplane. Because of its realistic performance, the Extra
Build the Wing Panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
330L, if not assembled and operated correctly, could
BUILD THE FUSELAGE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
Determine the Right-thrust Offset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
damage property.
Build the Fuselage Center Box Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Assemble the Fuselage Center Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
To make your R/C modeling experience totally
Install the Firewall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced,
Mounting the Landing Gears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 knowledgeable help with assembly and during your
Mounting the Wing and Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 first flights. You’ll learn faster and avoid risking your model
Install the Fuselage Outer Shell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 before you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
Build the Outer Shell Stringers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 information about flying clubs in your area whose
Sheeting the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 membership includes qualified instructors.
Build the Front Deck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Mount the Cowl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Build the Turtle Deck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered
Install the Cockpit & Canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 clubs across the country. Through any one of them,
Mount the Wheels & Wheel Pants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 instructor training programs and insured newcomer training
FINISH THE MODEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 are available. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free
Balance the Model Laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 phone number below.
Prepare the Model for Covering. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Cover the Model With MonoKote Film . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Paint the Model. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Install the Hardware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Final Servo and Receiver Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Set The Control Throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Academy of Model Aeronautics
Install the Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 5151 East Memorial Drive
Balance Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Muncie, IN 47302-9252
ASSEMBLY & MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Tele. (800) 435-9262
Assembly of the Giant Extra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Fax (765) 741-0057
Maintenance of the Giant Extra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 or via the Internet at http://www.modelaircraft.org
2
1. Build the plane according to the plan and instructions. Do
not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an INTRODUCTION
unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the plan and
instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Great
instances the plan and written instructions are correct. Planes 1/3 scale giant Extra 330L. We’d like to provide you
a bit of history on our selection of this aircraft as the newest
release in the Great Planes sport scale aerobatic line.
2. Take time to build straight, true and strong.
The first of the Extra legacy – the 230 — stormed onto the
aerobatic scene in 1984, and its descendants continue to
3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition, rock the aerobatic world. The Extra 260, a hand built one-of-
and a correctly sized motor and components (batteries, a-kind prototype, carried Patty Wagstaff to the status of the
wheels, etc.) throughout your building process. only woman to hold the US National Aerobatic Champion
title, and stands proudly in the Smithsonian. The Extra 300
series burst onto the scene shortly thereafter, first with the
4. You must properly install all components so that the model 300 – a shoulder wing two seat superstar – followed by the
operates properly on the ground and in the air. 300S and L – low wing single and two seat models,
respectively, with even more performance.

5. You must check the operation of the model before every Now Extra threatens to scream to the top of the aerobatic ladder
flight to ensure that all equipment is operating and that the yet again by challenging the current reigning star, the CAP 232,
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check with the 330L and 330XS; modified 300S and L aircraft, powered
nylon clevises or other connectors often and replace them if by Lycoming 330hp engines and larger tail surfaces.
they show signs of wear or fatigue.
At the time of this writing the 330L and 330XS are still in
the prototyping stages, but Extra Germany has recently
announced a 330LX which appears to be nearly
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a
identical to the 330L prototype from which this aircraft
top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
was modeled. Until production aircraft are flying,
quality of your finished model depends on how you build
exactly which model will actually challenge the CAP is
it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
yet to be seen.
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the However, regardless of which model does get produced,
performance or safety of your completed model. the prototype 330L in Europe (the one modeled here) and
various other retrofitted 300S and L aircraft are already
stirring up the aerobatic and air show arenas. This excitement
and impressive performance led us to choose this aircraft for
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end our first Giant Scale Competitive Aerobatic Model.
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
The Extra has a mixed composite/aluminum/cloth covered
skin with well defined lines. Coincidentally, this makes the
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to
Great Planes Extra 330L relatively easy to build and cover.
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if
We have made every effort to maintain this mixed-skin
you have any questions about building or flying this
appearance and the scale shapes.
airplane, please call us at:
Flying the Extra 330L is a thrilling experience–as it should
be for such an aerobatic model! It doesn’t take much
(217) 398-8970
elevator or aileron throw to put the Extra through its paces.
or e-mail us at:
When you have a feel for your Extra 330L, the throws can be
[email protected].
increased to high rates (noted on the plans and in the
instructions) to really showcase the model's aerobatic
potential. The Extra performs surprisingly well on a 50-60 cc
If you are calling for replacement parts, please
single cylinder gas engine or 70cc gas twin cylinder engines
reference the part numbers and the kit identification
such as the MacMinarelli 70 twin, but seasoned experts will
number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have
want to get the most out of the Extra by strapping on
them ready when calling.
extremely powerful engines such as a 70cc gasoline single
or the MacMinarelli 85 twin.

We hope you enjoy building and flying your Great Planes

Extra 330L as much as we did the prototypes.
3
 ❏ One Servo-Reverser and a Y-Harness or Reversing
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE Y-Harness for elevator (HCAM2500 for Futaba
Y Harness)
Engine Selection OR
There are several engines that will work well in the Extra ❏ Computer radio and 24” and 36” servo extensions per
330L, but for Unlimited-level competition or Tournament custom radio set up
style performance, we recommend a gasoline powered ❏ Engine and mounting hardware; See Engine Selection
twin cylinder 85cc such as the MacMinarelli 85 twin ❏ Muffler; See Exhaust System
(MMLG0085). For sport flying and competition through ❏ Propeller; Refer to your engine’s instructions for proper size
the Advanced level, we recommend the MacMinarelli 70 NOTE: We recommend staying with a 10 or lesser
twin (MMLG0070). pitch and the appropriate diameter for your engine
NOTE: Please see the FLYING section regarding flutter, to optimize aerobatic performance and minimize
propeller selection and aerobatic performance. flutter risk on this model.
❏ Top Flite Super MonoKote covering (Approximately
Exhaust System Selection three 25’ rolls); See Covering (page 3)
You will need to choose an appropriate in-cowl muffler for ❏ Fuel-Proof paint; See Painting (page 44)
your engine. We chose the MacMinarelli exhaust system ❏ Medium Gas Fuel Tubing (PRAQ1750, 3’)
designed specifically for the MacMinarelli 70 and 85 ❏ 24 oz. Fuel Tank (GPMQ4101 for gas or glow)
engines (MMLG9000). ❏ Easy Fueler™ Valve for Gas (GPMQ4161) or Glow
(GPMQ4101)
Performance ❏ 1/2” Latex Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1050)
❏ (2) 4-1/2” Wheels (DUBQ0846)
You will need to decide if you want to perform the most ❏ 24 Giant Scale Pin Hinges (ROBQ2510)
extreme of 3D aerobatics with this aircraft. If so, you will ❏ (4) 3/16” Wheel Collar (GPMQ4308)
want to consider four 80+ in. oz. servos for your ailerons ❏ 5 (optional up to 8) Giant Scale Control Horns (DUBQ1985)
and two 80+ in. oz. servos for your rudder. Additionally, ❏ (Optional) Onboard kill switch (GPMG2150) (mandatory
you will need to double bevel the elevator leading edge. for gasoline engines)
Instructions to perform all of these modifications are ❏ (2) 18” nylon pushrod for throttle (nylon required for
provided in shaded boxes. gasoline applications) (GPMQ3710)
❏ (2) 2-56 nylon clevises (GPMQ3800)
❏ (2) Screw Lock Pushrod Connectors (GPMQ3870)
❏ 6 (optional up to 9) 4-40 solder on clevises
(GPMQ3815, qty 12)
❏ 6 (optional up to 9) 4-40 thread on clevises with 12”
PREPARATIONS pushrod (GPMQ3785, qty 12)
❏ Giant scale tail wheel assembly and hardware (OHIQ2020)
❏ (2) 3/16” axles (long) (DUBQ1115)
Required Accessories ❏ 5” Spinner (TRUQ2430 - aluminum, giant scale “Menz” cut)
❏ 2 Pilots (DGA 1/3 Scale Sportsman Pilot used in
Items in parentheses (GPMQ4243) are suggested part prototype, DGAQ2000)
numbers recognized by most distributors and hobby shops ❏ (4) 1-ft sections of Velcro™ or other non-adhesive-
and are listed for your ordering convenience. GPM is the backed hook-n-loop material
Great Planes brand, TOP is the Top Flite® brand, HCA is the
Hobbico® brand and COV is the Coverite™ brand.
❏ 6+ Channel Radio with 7-10+ servos - each aileron
requires a 100 in oz single servo or twin 50+ in oz Building Supplies
servos PER aileron
Rudder requires a 100 in oz single servo or twin 50+ These are the building tools, glue, etc. that we recommend
in oz servos and mention in the manual.
Twin elevator servos (80 in oz each minimum)
Standard Servo for throttle and onboard kill switch ❏ (2) 4-oz. Thin CA (GPMR6004)
1000+ mah Rx battery pack ❏ (2) 4-oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6010)
AND ❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ 6-Minute Pro™ Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Four 24” servo extensions - 2 aileron, 1 rudder, 1 ❏ 30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
elevator (HCAM1000 for Futaba®) ❏ Pacer Formula 560™ Canopy Glue (PAAR3300)
❏ One Standard Y-Harness - 1 aileron (optional: 1 ❏ HobbyLite™ Balsa Filler (HCAR3401)
rudder) (HCAM2500 for Futaba) ❏ Masking Tape
4
❏ Great Planes Plans Protector (GPMR6167)
❏
®
X-Acto Razor Saw (XACR2531)
Optional Supplies and Tools
❏ #1 Hobby Knife Handle (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 Qty.) ❏ TME Smoke System (TMEG7000)
❏ Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480) ❏ (1-3) Hobbico Airplane Gyros - allows full function with
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100) twin servos (HCAM4010)
❏ Medium T-pins (HCAR5150) ❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 1/4-20 Tap (GPMR8105, drill bit included) ❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Electric Power Drill ❏ Epoxy Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055, Qty. 50)
❏ Drill Bits: 1/16”, 5/64”, 3/32”, 7/64”, 1/8”, 5/32”, #18 or ❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
11/64”, 3/16”, #10 or 13/64” (unless purchased with ❏ Clevis Installation Tool (GPMR8030)
1/4-20 Tap listed above), 7/32”, 1/4”, 17/64” ❏ Hot Sock™ (TOPR2175)
❏ Monofilament String for aligning wing and stabilizer ❏ Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)
❏ Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flat Blade) ❏ Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Top Flite MonoKote Sealing Iron (TOPR2100) ❏ MonoKote Trim Solvent (TOPR6020)
❏ Bar Sander or Sanding Block and Sandpaper (coarse, ❏ Great Planes Slot Machine™ Hinge Slotter (GPMQ4010)
medium, fine grit) ❏ Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312, 100 Qty.)
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ 36” Non-Slip Straightedge (HCAR0475)
❏ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (for epoxy clean-up)
❏ Dremel® MultiPro® or similar w/Sanding Drum, Cutting
Burr, Cut-off Wheel
❏ Curved-Tip Canopy Scissors (HCAR0667)
❏ Servo Horn Drill (HCAR0698)
On our workbench, we have three 11” Great Planes
Easy-Touch™ Bar Sanders, equipped with #80, #150
and #220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is required
for almost any sanding task. We also keep some Important Building Notes
#320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.
There are two types of screws used in this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" [1.91mm]

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per

inch, and a length.
Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from
lightweight extruded aluminum and can be found at most For example 4-40 x 3/4" [1.91mm]
hobby shops. They are available in five sizes.

5-1/2” (GPMR6169) for those tight, hard-to-reach spots;

11” (GPMR6170) for most general purpose sanding;
22” (GPMR6172), 33” (GPMR6174) and 44” (GPMR6176)
for long surfaces such as wing leading edges. The Easy-
Touch Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper comes in 2” x 12’ • When you see the term “test fit” in the instructions, it
rolls of 80-grit (GPMR6180), 150-grit (GPMR6183) and means you should first position the part on the assembly
220-grit (GPMR6185) and an assortment of 5-1/2” long without using any glue, then slightly modify or “custom
strips (GPMR6189) for the short bar sander. The adhesive- fit” the part as necessary for the best fit. Do not glue until
backed sandpaper is easy to apply and remove from your told to do so.
sanding bar when it’s time for replacement.
• When you see the term “fit” in the instructions, it means
Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa or you should first position the part on the assembly without
hardwood blocks and dowels for sanding difficult-to- using any glue, then modify or “custom fit” the part as
reach spots. necessary for the best fit. Glue when you are satisfied
with the fit. (Continued on page 8)
5
DIE-CUT PATTERNS

6
DIE-CUT PATTERNS

7
 (Continued from page 5)
• Whenever just “epoxy” is specified you may use either GET READY TO BUILD
30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute
epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you 1. Unroll the plan sheets, then reroll the plan inside-out to
use only 30-minute epoxy because you will need the make them lie flat.
working time and/or the additional strength.
2. Sort through the sticks and sheets, grouping them by
size. Masking tape can be used to bundle matching sheets
• Where you see the term “glue”, it is at your option to
and sticks. Using a felt tip or ballpoint pen, lightly write the
select the thickness of CA with which you are most
part name or size on each piece or bundle. Refer to the
comfortable. If the step indicates a particular thickness of
parts list and plan for sizes and quantities. Use the die-cut
glue, be sure to use the thickness recommended for
patterns shown on pages 6 & 7 to identify the die-cut parts
strength, penetration, and/or working time.
and mark them before removing them from the die sheet.
Save all leftovers. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to
• Several times during construction we refer to the “top” or remove, do not force them! Instead, cut around the parts
“bottom” of the model or a part of the model. For example,
with a hobby knife or lightly sand the back of the sheet. After
during fuse construction we tell you to “glue the top
removing the die-cut parts, use your sanding block to lightly
stringer”. It is understood that the “top” or “bottom” of the
sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.
model is as it would be when the airplane is right-side-up
and will be referred to as the “top” even if the model is 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
being worked on upside-down. For example, the “top” groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer)
stringer is always the “top” stringer even when the fuse is and hardware.
being built upside-down.

Common Abbreviations

Elev = Elevator Fuse = Fuselage Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store the small
LE = Leading Edge (front) LG = Landing Gear parts as you sort, identify and separate them into
Ply = Plywood Stab = Stabilizer sub-assemblies.
TE = Trailing Edge (rear) " = Inches

DESIGNER’S NOTE: Before you begin construction, it is

important that we take a moment to cover the issues of
Types of Wood structure and weight. This model is designed to be
EXTREMELY lightweight. As such, it is a superb aerobatic
performer and is also VERY structurally sound. However, if
you are concerned about strength and modify the design,
adding material such as sheeting for the bottom of the
fuselage, you may unintentionally increase the flying weight
of the aircraft without adding sufficient structural integrity to
compensate. While one small change won’t likely hurt the
aircraft, small changes quickly accumulate to the point of
actually increasing the risk to the aircraft. If you trust the
design and add nothing, you will be rewarded with an
exceptional flying, extremely durable, gorgeous aircraft.
Metric Conversions
Because of the incredible light weight of this design, some of
1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor) the structure is fragile during construction. Be sure to take
your time and handle the model with care, being particularly
1/64" = .4mm 1" = 25.4mm
1/32" = .8mm 2" = 50.8mm careful about not picking up sheeted areas by the sheeting
1/16" = 1.6mm 3" = 76.2mm for risk of putting your fingers through the sheet, etc. The
3/32" = 2.4mm 6" = 152.4mm balsa cross trusses in the fuse are likewise fragile and
1/8" = 3.2mm 12" = 304.8mm should not be used to pick up the aircraft; however,
5/32" = 4mm 15" = 381mm structurally they do their job perfectly: in flight, the cross
3/16" = 4.8mm 18" = 457.2mm
1/4" = 6.4mm 21" = 533.4mm trusses would never be subject to such a load. Again, do not
3/8" = 9.5mm 24" = 609.6mm let this fragileness concern you, and we strongly
1/2" = 12.7mm 30" = 762mm recommend NOT making changes to the design based
5/8" = 15.9mm 36" = 914.4mm upon this apparent fragileness. When completed and
3/4" = 19mm covered, the aircraft is VERY structurally sound.

8
 D. Turn the sheet over and remove the masking tape,
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES then apply thin CA to the seam the same way you did for
the other side.
Assemble the Stab Sheeting
E. Sand the sheet flat and smooth with your bar sander
and 150-grit sandpaper.
Right now, while the building board is clear, is a great time
to assemble the stab sheeting.
❏ 1. See the Expert Tip that follows, then edge glue four Build the Stab & Elevators
sets of two 3/32"x4"x24" balsa sheets together, creating four
stab sheets. Set them aside. The construction of this stab, fin and wing are all
engineered specifically to provide perfectly straight and
true panels with minimum effort on your part. To do so,
the building sequence and pieces are quite different from
what you may be accustomed to. Be sure to read all steps
carefully and pay particular attention to the instructions of
when and where to apply adhesives. DO NOT GLUE until
HOW TO JOIN SHEETING instructed to do so.

Occasionally outside forces such as humidity and

dramatic temperature changes can result in slight
inaccuracies in the dimensions of printed plans. One of
the many advantages of a fully interlocking stab such as
this one is that exact alignment over a printed plan is not
necessary to ensure a straight stab. If the ribs do not
align perfectly over the plans, don’t worry! As long as the
spar is aligned as shown, the stab will be right.

You may separate the stab and elevator drawing from the
A. Use a metal straightedge as a guide to trim one edge
plan by cutting along the dashed line. Don’t forget to always
of both sheets.
cover the plans with Great Planes Plans Protector so the
glue won’t stick to the plan.

❏ ❏ 1. Tape the left stab plan to the building board, and

cover the stab drawing with Great Planes Plans Protector
(so you won’t glue the stab to the plan!)

❏ ❏ 2. Before using the 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" basswood spars,

examine them carefully for warps. If the spars are warped
slightly, try to “balance them out” by installing the warped
spars in opposite directions (see sketch).
B. Use masking tape to tightly tape the two sheets
together, joining the trimmed edges.

C. Turn the sheet over and place weights on top of the

sheet to hold it. Apply thin CA sparingly to the seam
between the two sheets, quickly wiping away excess CA ❏ ❏ 3. Position the spar on top of the plan with excess
with a paper towel as you proceed. overhanging both S1 and S8. Pin it in place inboard of S1
and outboard of S8.
9
❏ ❏ 4. Carefully punch out the four die-cut 1/8" balsa stab ❏ ❏ 9. Carefully slide the stab LE web (SLE) onto the front
webs (SLE, SMW, STE, and ELE), laser-cut 1/8" ply stab of the ribs in their notches. Glue all 8 ribs to all 3 webs and
rib S1, die-cut 1/8" ply dowel doubler (DD) and the die-cut the spar, and the main web to the spar.
3/32" balsa stab ribs S2 through S8. Sand the edges
slightly to remove any die-cutting irregularities. Be careful ❏ ❏ 10. Test fit (DO NOT GLUE) the top spar into the ribs,
not to alter the shapes or angles of any of the pieces. If this leaving the excess overhanging both S1 and S8. When you
is your first stab half, align the dowel holes and glue the stab are confident you can fit the spar in place, remove the spar.
dowel doubler to the left side of S1 when positioned over the Lay a bead of medium CA along the top of the main web
plans. If this is your second stab half, align and glue the and the corners of the rib slots, and reinstall the top spar.
doubler to the right side of S1.

❏ ❏ 5. Select the S1 through S4 ribs, the phenolic stab

tube socket and the 18" aluminum stab tube. Cut the 18"
aluminum stab tube down to 17" and sand the cut end
smooth so it will slide into the socket easily. Carefully slide
the stab tube socket into the tube holes in ribs S1 through
S4. If the socket does not slide into the ribs, DO NOT force
it. Wrap a small piece of 220 grit sand paper around the
aluminum stab tube and gently sand the inside of the rib
holes. Test fit until the stab tube socket fits properly into the
ribs. Set the tube and socket aside.
❏ ❏ 11. Test fit the 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" balsa top aft stab spar
into the ribs as you did the main spar. Glue it to the ribs and
trailing edge web.

❏ ❏ 6. Select the rib S2, main web (SMW), and trailing edge
web (STE). Slide S2 into its slots in the main web and the
TE web. NOTE: Be sure the rib is slid all the way into the
notches, particularly in the TE web which extends beyond ❏ ❏ 12. Align the die-cut 1/8" ply tube cap (SHS) against
the rib both top and bottom. the outboard edge of R4 and the main web, centered
vertically on R4. Glue it to the main web and R4. Note: This
❏ ❏ 7. Position S6 in its slots to lock the webs in place. Glue piece is identical to the stab horn support.
S2 and S6 to the main web and spar. Pin a piece of leftover
balsa flush against the root end of the trailing edge web to ❏ ❏ 13. Carefully slide the stab tube socket through ribs S1,
hold the trailing edge web in place.NOTE: If you happen to S2 and S3 and tight against the tube cap on the aft side of
crack or break one of the ribs during installation, simply take S4. (When building your second stab half, put the uncut end
it out of the stab, position the pieces together and glue with into the stab half, and trim off the excess in step 14.
thin CA. Allow to dry and reinstall. Remember to keep the leftover piece for in the fuselage.)

❏ ❏ 14. Glue the stab tube socket to the ribs and web with
medium CA. Trim the inboard end of the stab tube socket
1/8" inboard of S1. NOTE: Do NOT use thin CA for this step,
as you may saturate the stab tube socket and get CA into
the inside of the stab tube socket, making fitting the
aluminum stab tube impossible.

❏ ❏ 15. Position the 3/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" basswood tube bolt

block against the inboard edge of R4 and the main web.
Glue it in place with medium CA. Note: It may be necessary
to sand the tube bolt block slightly to make it flush with the
❏ ❏ 8. Insert ribs S1, S3, S4, S5, S7 and S8 into their locations. top of the ribs and spar.
10
 surface, then unpin the spars from the plan. Trim and sand
the sheeting from the top side of the stab behind the main
web and outboard of S7. Trim and sand the sheeting, spars
and stab tube socket flush with the LE web, ribs S1 and S8.
Hint: Now is a great time to make sure the top sheeting is
firmly glued to all ribs, spars and webs. Touch up with
medium CA as necessary.

❏ ❏ 16. Use a sanding block to shape the LE web so it aligns

with the tops of the ribs and the shape of the airfoil as shown
in the sketch. Be careful not to gouge the ribs or LE web.

❏ ❏ 17. Coat the ribs, spar, LE web, aft spar and spar/TE
web joint liberally with medium CA. Carefully position one of
the stab sheets you previously built flush against the TE
web and overhanging S1, S8 and the LE web, being sure ❏ ❏ 19. Fit and glue the die-cut 1/8" ply elevator servo tray
the TE web and spar are both pressed down tight against (SST) in the slots in the webs.
the plan. Weight it in place and allow the CA to cure.

❏ ❏ 20. Fit and glue the bottom aft stab spar into the ribs
and against the TE web. Cut the aft stab spar flush with S7
You can coat the stab parts with CA, then lightly spray the and S1.
underside of the sheeting with CA Accelerator, then roll
the sheeting carefully from the trailing edge web, over the
ribs and over the LE. This guarantees an immediate set
with no need to weight the sheeting, and with no chance
of movement of the sheeting.
CAUTION: This technique is “not for the faint of heart” and
requires a steady, confident hand, as the accelerator
WILL cure the CA immediately and any errors made in
placement will be VERY difficult to fix.

❏ ❏ 21. From a 3/8" x 5/8" x 24" balsa stick, cut twelve 3/8"
x 5/8" x 1-1/4" hinge blocks. Position and glue the 8 hinge
❏ ❏ 18. Because you have sheeted the top of the stab, you blocks within this stab half, against the webs and ribs as
will need to pull the stab, pins and all, from your work shown on the plan.
11
 ❏ ❏ 2. Turn the stab right-side-up. Slide the elevator LE web
(ELE) over the ribs in their notches until the top of the web
is flush with the top of each rib. Glue in place with thin CA.

NOTE for Non-Computer Radio and Entry Level

Computer Radio Users:
If you are using an entry level computerized radio, you will
need to find out now whether or not your radio has the
ability to properly support twin elevator servos (some
entry level computer radios can’t mix two elevator servos
properly because the trims do not function correctly.) If
your radio cannot properly support twin elevator servos,
you will need to choose one of the options below.
(Futaba’s 6XA, 8U, and 9Z all handle twin elevator servos
❏ ❏ 22. Using a 7/64" drill bit, drill a hole 1/2" inboard of R4 without difficulty.)
and centered on the tube, all the way through the stab tube
socket, tube support block, and top sheeting. NOTE: The If you are not using a computer radio, you need to make
aluminum stab tube IS NOT drilled in this step. It will be an important decision now. A computerized radio user
fitted and drilled to match the fuselage later. would simply mix the 2 channels together and switch the
direction of one of the servos to make this ideal pushrod
configuration work properly; however, if you are not using
a computerized radio you will need to:

a) purchase a servo-reversing Y-harness which reverses

one servo’s direction; or
b) purchase a standard Y-harness and a servo reversing
extension; or
c) purchase a standard Y-harness and a reversed servo
for one of the elevator halves; or
d) purchase a standard Y-harness and move the control
❏ ❏ 23. Use a sanding block to shape the LE web so it horn mount on the right stab half from the outboard edge of
aligns with the tops of the ribs and the shape of the airfoil. S4 to the inboard edge of S5, and mount each servo’s arm
to the upright aircraft’s right side. (Computerized radio
❏ ❏ 24. Sheet the bottom of the stab as you did the top. Trim users have both toward the inboard edge of the stab.)
the sheeting from the counterbalancer area (behind the
main spar and outboard of S7) and inboard of S1 and
outboard of S8 as you did for the top.

Finish the Elevators

❏ ❏ 3. Fit and glue the die-cut 1/8" ply elevator control

horn support (SHS) in the slots in the ELE web and S4.
(See note above BEFORE completing this step.)

❏ ❏ 4. Place a piece of leftover 1/16" balsa flush against S7

❏ ❏ 1. Using the plan and the location of the trailing edge and over the position of CB. (This piece acts as a spacer
of the elevator servo tray as references, cut an opening in and ensures a straight counterbalance.) Carefully position
the bottom sheeting for your servo. Note: Be careful not to the die-cut 3/32" balsa rib S9 in its slot in the elevator LE
split the sheeting. web 1/16" away from S7. Glue it in the web with thin CA.
12
 ❏ ❏ 10. Measure 5/16" aft of the TE of S2 and S10, and draw
❏ ❏ 5. Place the S10 rib onto the elevator LE web. Place the a line between the 2 points. Cut the sheeting along this line
die-cut 1/8" balsa counterbalance web (CB) into the and flush with S1, S10 and the elevator trailing edge. Sand
notches in the front of S9 and S10. Tack glue CB to the S9 the sheet flush with S1, S10 and the elevator trailing edge.
and S10 ribs. Glue S10 to CB and elevator LE web. Note: Sand the TE of the sheeting to the contour of the ribs.
Be careful not to glue anything to the spacer or to the stab.
❏ ❏ 11. Sheet the top of the elevator and counterbalance as
❏ ❏ 6. From a 3/32" x 4" x 24" sheet, cut a 3" long you did the bottom. Trim and sand the sheeting.
counterbalance sheet and the 21" long elevator sheet.
Trim the counterbalance piece to 3/32" x 3" x 3" and
set aside.

❏ ❏ 7. Place a bead of medium CA along the portion of

each rib aft of the elevator LE web and the elevator LE web.
Being careful not to press hard enough to rotate the
counterbalance or twist the ribs, hold the sheeting in place
until the CA dries.

❏ ❏ 12. Using a razor saw, cut the elevator from the stab by
cutting ribs S1 through S7 between the stab TE web and the
elevator LE web. Be VERY careful not to cut into S9. Sand
the leading edges.

❏ ❏ 8. With the grain running the same direction as the

main elevator sheeting, position and glue the
counterbalance sheeting in place.

❏ ❏ 13. Position the elevator control horn (not included) on

the elevator as shown on the plan. Drill four 1/16" holes,
then mount the control horn to the elevator with four #2 x
3/8" sheet metal screws.

❏ ❏ 14. Draw a line around the control horn, remove it, and
poke approximately a dozen pin holes in the top sheeting
within the rectangle you drew, then apply a generous
amount of thin CA. Allow the CA to cure, hardening the
balsa, then sand the sheeting smooth. NOTE: Use enough
CA to have some enter the screw holes; however, do not
❏ ❏ 9. Flip the stab/elevator right-side-up. Position and glue use so much that you fill the holes with CA.
the remaining 4 hinge blocks in place in the elevator.
Position and glue the 1/8" die-cut ply elevator trailing edge ❏ ❏ 15. Select the 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 24" elevator leading
rib (ETE) in place on the bottom elevator sheeting and into edge. Glue it, centered on the leading edge of the elevator
the notch in S1. and flush with S9.
13
 ❏ ❏ 5. Using leftover 3/32" balsa, cap the outboard ends of
both elevator halves and stab halves. Trim and sand the
caps smooth.

❏ ❏ 6. Using giant scale hinges (not included — we used

Robart Giant Scale Pin Hinges on the prototypes), hinge
the elevator to the stab.
❏ ❏ 16. Select the 9/16" x 1-3/8" x 2-3/4" balsa
counterbalance leading edge and glue it centered on the ❏ 7. If this is the first time through, go back to the start of
leading edge of the counterbalance portion of the elevator BUILD THE STAB/ELEVATORS and build the other stab
with excess overhanging both ends. Sand both leading half. If it’s your second time through, get a good night’s
edges flush with the sheeting, S1 and S9, S10. sleep! You’ve got a great start! At this rate, your Extra will be
framed up in no time.
If you are going to double bevel your elevators, glue an
additional 1/2" x 1-3/8" balsa counterbalance leading
edge to your counterbalance (not included).
Build the Fin & Rudder
❏ ❏ 17. Bevel the elevator LE and round the counterbalance’s
leading edge.
Build the Fin and Rudder Sheeting

Finish the Stab Panels

❏ ❏ 1. Select a 1/4" x 1" x 24" balsa stick, for the stab ❏ 1. While your work surface is clear, now is the perfect time
leading edge. Leaving 1/4" of LE stock extending beyond to build your fin and rudder sheeting. Select six 3/32" x 3" x
the inboard edge of S1 and keeping the LE centered 36" balsa fin and rudder sheets. Cut all 6 sheets into two
vertically on the LE web, glue the LE to the front of the wing pieces, one 19" long and one 15-1/2" long, and set aside the
with medium CA. leftover. Edge glue two sets of three 19" sheets. Cut these
two 19" long sheets into two rudder sheets which are 19" long
❏ ❏ 2. Trim the LE flush with S1 and S10. Sand the LE to
and 9" wide at one end and 4-1/2" wide at the other.
blend with the stab, forming a smooth airfoil shape.
❏ ❏ 3. Sand the trailing edge web flush with the sheeting
top and bottom.

If you are going to double bevel your elevators, glue an

additional 1/2" x 1-1/4" x 16" balsa stick (not included) to
the trailing edge of the stab. Bevel this new trailing edge
as you did the elevator leading edge.

❏ ❏ 4. Use HobbyLite™ balsa colored filler to fill in the gaps ❏ 2. Edge glue the six 15-1/2" long sheets together. From
in the trailing edge web at the ribs as well as any other one end, cut one 15-1/2" long stab sheet which is 9-3/8"
minor blemishes in your stab or elevator. Allow the filler to long at one end and 3-3/4" long at the other. From the other
dry completely before sanding it to shape. square edge, cut the second stab sheet.
14
Build the Fin that all references such as “laterally” and “model’s left”
indicate the part’s final position on the finished model and
❏ 1. Cut the Fin plan from the plan sheet. Cover it with Great not necessarily its current orientation.
Planes Plan Protector so the glue won’t stick to the plan.

❏ 2. Select the two 3/8" x 1-5/8" x 24" balsa sticks and

carefully choose the straightest of the 2 sticks for the fin
post. Set the second post aside for the rudder LE.

❏ 3. Cut the fin post to 18-7/8" long. Draw a centerline down

the fin post lengthwise to mark where the fin ribs will be
centered.

❏ 6. Install the laser-cut vertical ribs V1-V6 as you did V7,

being careful that all tabs are pointing to the model’s left.

❏ 7. Aligning the fin post and ribs over the plan, pin the fin
post to the plan.

❏ 4. Carefully position the fin post over the plan. Using a

square, mark the top and bottom edges of each rib on the
fin post. HINT: You may temporarily pin the fin post in place
during this process.

❏ 8. Select the 1/4" x 3/4" x 18" balsa fin LE, which will be
temporarily used as a LE jig at this time, and the die-cut
3/32" balsa fin LE web (FLE). Slip the LE jig under the tabs
on ribs V1-V7 so that the tabs are held 3/4" off the work
surface. Slide the LE web into position on all 7 ribs, being
careful that ribs V5 and V6 are properly positioned to the top
❏ 5. Position the laser-cut 3/32" balsa vertical rib V7 so and bottom edges of the jig notch respectively. Glue the LE
that the rib is: web in place, being careful not to glue it to the LE jig or to
a) positioned between the lines you drew in step 6; glue V5 to V6.
b) centered laterally on the fin post on the centerline you drew;
c) vertical;
d) and with the LE web notch pointing toward the model’s
left as shown in the photo. When you are confident it is ❏ 9. Sand the left side of the LE web to match the airfoil of
positioned properly, glue with thin CA. NOTE: Remember the ribs as you did on the stab LE web.
15
 ❏ 16. Once the CA has fully cured, trim the rib tabs off with
a razor saw. Sand the sheet and ribs flush with the LE web.

❏ 10. Position the first fin sheet flush against the fin post
and the TE of the ribs, with the lower edge overhanging rib
V1 slightly. Glue the sheet to the fin post with thin CA. ❏ 17. Trim the sheeting between ribs V5 and V6 with a razor
saw. Trim the excess sheeting off the top and bottom of the
❏ 11. Gently pull the sheeting back from the ribs and apply a fin and sand flush with ribs V1 and V7.
bead of medium CA along each rib and along the LE web.
Roll the sheet back over the ribs and hold in place until the ❏ 18. Center the LE laterally on the LE web, and glue it in
CA cures. place. Trim the excess off the top and bottom of the fin.
Shape the LE to the airfoil shape of the fin, using the cross
❏ 12. Gently pull your fin off your work surface, remove the
section on the plan as a reference.
pins, and turn it over.
❏ 13. Cut the LE web and the sheeting between ribs V5 and
V6, separating the counterbalance’s sheeting from the fin
sheeting. Cut the LE of the sheeting flush with the LE web,
being careful not to cut the tabs off the ribs.

❏ 19. Shape the fin post to the shape of the fin. Note: Be
careful not to change the shape of the fin by sanding into
the fin sheet.

❏ 14. From the 3/8" x 5/8" x 12" balsa stick, cut and glue the two
1-1/2" long hinge blocks in position as shown on the plan.

❏ 15. Reposition the fin flat on your work surface on its left
side with the LE again acting as a LE jig under the tabs.
Sand the LE web flush with the airfoil shape of the ribs.
Sheet the right side as you did the left, being SURE to keep
the tabs pressed firmly against the jig and the fin post sitting
flat on your work surface. Weight the sheeted fin down and
allow the CA to fully cure. NOTE: Using the jig and
weighting the fin at this critical point will ensure that your fin ❏ 20. Cut the LE and TE between ribs V5 and V6, making
is as straight as your work surface. Failure to do so may the rudder counterbalance. Sand the top of the fin and top
result in a warped fin, which will negatively affect the great and bottom of the rudder counterbalance flush with ribs V5,
flying characteristics of this model. V6 and V7 respectively.
16
 If you are going to double bevel your elevators, glue a
1/2" x 1-5/8" balsa spacer (not included) onto the leading
edge of the fin post from V1 down to the bottom of the post.

Build the Rudder

❏ 1. Select the two rudder sheets you made earlier. Trim the
first sheet to size, using the 1" dashed lines on the plan as
a reference. Make the second sheet just like the first, and
set the second (left side sheet) aside.

❏ 6. Position and glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs VR3

through VR8 to the sheet as you did VR2.

❏ 2. Pin the right side sheet in place over the plan.

❏ 7. Position and glue the left side control horn support into
its notches in VR1 and VR2.

❏ 8. Unpin the fin from the plan. Use a bar sander to sand
the TE of the sheet until it matches the angle of the ribs. Be
careful not to nick or break the ribs.

❏ 3. Glue the first die-cut 1/8" ply control horn support

(RHS) in position on the sheeting. Hint: Use the mini-plan
in the center of this manual as a handy reference.

❏ 4. Position and glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa rib VR1,

aligned flush with the bottom and leading edges of the
sheeting. Use a square to be sure the rib is vertical.

❏ 5. Position VR2 in place on the sheeting, aligning it with ❏ 9. Trial fit the left side sheeting to the ribs. When confident
the top of the control horn support and the leading edge of you can position it easily, coat the ribs, right side trailing
the sheeting. Again use a square to be sure the rib is edge and left control horn support with medium CA.
vertical. Glue VR2 to the sheet and the control horn support Position the left side sheet, aligned with the LE of the ribs
with thin CA. Hint: the shorter dashed lines extending past and control horn support, the top and bottom rib and the
the trailing edge of the fin are alignment marks to help you trailing edge of the right side sheet. Carefully weight the
position ribs VR2-VR8. rudder down and allow the CA to cure completely.
17
❏ 10. From a 3/8" x 1-5/8" x 24" balsa stick, cut one 18-3/4"
long rudder LE. From the 3/8" x 5/8" x 9" balsa stick leftover
from making fin hinge blocks, cut three 1-1/2" long rudder
hinge blocks.

❏ 14. Using medium CA, glue the rudder counterbalance to

the rudder LE, aligning the tops of VR8 with V7 and
centering the counterbalance’s TE on the rudder LE. Lightly
sand any imperfections in the fit.

❏ 11. Lay the LE on its 1-5/8" wide side on the plan as shown ❏ 15. Using leftover 3/32" balsa, glue a balsa cap onto the
in the photo, with its top aligned with the top of the rudder on top and bottom of the rudder. Sand the caps to the shape of
the plan, thereby allowing the small excess to overhang the the ribs and sheeting.
bottom. Glue the three hinge blocks centered on the LE post
in the positions shown on the plan. ❏ 16. Using giant scale hinges (not included), hinge the
rudder to the fin.

Note: The TE of the fin and the LE of the rudder will be

beveled after the fin is mounted on the plane.

That’s about it for the tail surfaces. Now, how was that for
lightweight, easy to build, airfoiled surfaces? They are light,
strong, scale, aerodynamic, and a nice piece of
craftsmanship. Clean off the building board and get ready
for the wings!

BUILD THE WING

Right now, while the building board is clear, is a great time to
assemble the wing support jigs, wing sheeting and several
other important items in preparation for the wing assembly.

Assemble the Wing Jigs

❏ 12. Stand the sheeted structure vertically and centered

on the LE laterally and aligned with the top of the LE. Glue
in place with thin CA. ❏ 1. Select the die-cut 1/8" balsa WLEJA, WLEJB, WTEJA
and WTEJB support jig pieces. Glue WLEJA to WLEJB
❏ 13. Trim and sand the LE flush with the sheeting, being and WTEJA to WTEJB using a straightedge to be sure the
careful not to damage the sheeting. Sand the LE flush with jigs remain straight. These two jigs are now known as the
ribs VR1 and VR8, maintaining VR8’s angle. leading edge and trailing edge support jigs.
18
 imperfections (if any) are on the outer half of the wing panel
(toward the tip), where they will be least affected by high
stress. If the spars are warped slightly, try to “balance them
out” by installing the warped spars in opposite directions
(see sketch).

❏ 2. From a 1/4" x 1/4" x 6" balsa stick, cut eight 1/2" long
blocks and glue four of them onto one side of each jig,
aligning with one edge as shown in the sketch.
❏ 3. Select the two 25" phenolic wing tube sockets. Cut 6"
segments off each socket, setting aside one 6" socket for
going through the fuselage. The second 6" segment
is leftover.
❏ ❏ 5. Position the spar on top of the plan, allowing excess
to extend past both the inboard and outboard ribs. Pin in
position in three places; each end and in the center.
Build the Wing Panels HINT: Instead of attempting to pin through the basswood,
capture the spar between two vertical pins at the middle of
the spar and cross-pin the spar on each end.
WLEWA WLEWB
❏ ❏ 6. Carefully punch out one laser-cut 1/8" ply rib (R1)
and 5 laser-cut 3/32" balsa wing ribs (R2-R6). Slip the 1-
WMWA WMWB
1/2" x 36" aluminum wing tube into the wing tube socket
and test fit the tube socket into the holes in the six laser-cut
WTEWA WTEWB
ribs. Gently sand if necessary (as was done when building
the stab) so that the ribs easily slide onto the tube socket
❏ ❏ 1. Select the die-cut 1/8" balsa WLEWA, WLEWB, but are not sloppy.
WMWA, WMWB, WTEWA and WTEWB web pieces. Glue
WLEWA to WLEWB, WMWA to WMWB, and WTEWA to
WTEWB, using a straightedge to be sure the webs remain
straight. These 3 webs are now known as the leading edge,
main, and trailing edge webs.

❏ ❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply wing tube end cap (WTEC)
to the outboard end of R6, being sure that the notches in the
rib and end cap are properly aligned. Similarly glue the die-
cut 1/8" ply dowel doubler (DD) to the outboard end of R1,
aligning the dowel holes. Note: Be SURE to double-check
that you have secured the end cap to the outboard end of
R6 with the wing tube holes toward the top of the wing. See
the photo to confirm your R6 and end cap are properly
❏ ❏ 2. Edge glue three 3/32" x 4" x 48" balsa sheets assembled prior to gluing.
together. Cut the sheets as shown above, cutting diagonally
so that you create two LE sheets. ❏ ❏ 8. Carefully punch out eight die-cut 3/32" balsa wing
❏ ❏ 3. Tape the right wing plan to the building board, and ribs (R7-R14). Sand the edges slightly to remove any die-
cover it with Great Planes Plan Protector (so you won’t glue cutting irregularities. Be careful not to alter the shapes or
the wing to the plan!) We are building the right wing right- angles of any of the pieces.
side-up over the right wing top view. NOTE: DO NOT GLUE until instructed to do so.

❏ ❏ 4. Before using the 1/8" x 1/2" x 48" basswood spars, ❏ ❏ 9. Position the main web you assembled previously on
examine them carefully for possible imperfections. Look for top of the spar with the notched side up. Slide R1 into its
knots, soft spots, diagonal grain and any other slots in the main web. Align the main web, centering it on
imperfections. If possible, position each spar so the the spar.
19
❏ ❏ 10. Position the remaining 13 ribs in place on the main
web and spar. NOTE: If you happen to crack or break one
of the ribs during installation, simply take it out of the wing,
position the pieces together and glue them with thin CA.
Allow the rib to dry and reinstall it.

❏ ❏ 16. Use a sanding block to shape the LE web so it

aligns with the tops of the ribs and the shape of the airfoil
❏ ❏ 11. Carefully slide the wing LE and TE webs you as shown in the sketch. Be careful not to gouge the ribs or
assembled earlier over the ribs in their notches until the top LE web.
of the webs are flush with the top of each rib. Take your time
and be gentle; this balsa structure is still fragile at this point,
but when finished will provide you a strong, light structure.
❏ ❏ 17. Using medium CA, glue a LE sheet you made
previously to the LE web. Allow the CA to cure completely
before proceeding. Note: Make sure the sheeting
overhangs the tip rib and the center of the wing slightly.

❏ ❏ 12. Position the LE and TE jigs in position, pinning

through the support blocks you attached previously.
Note: The TE jig is aligned at the rear edge of the aileron
spar slot.
❏ ❏ 18. Carefully lift the sheeting away from the ribs, then
apply a bead of medium or thick CA to the top of each rib
❏ ❏ 13. Remove the aluminum tube from the tube socket. and the front half of the main spar. Working quickly,
Fit the tube socket into the 5 laser-cut ribs until the wing reposion the sheeting as you press it down to the ribs and
tube socket is into the R5 rib and flush with the end cap. the spar. Use weights to hold the sheeting to the ribs and
Hint: It is easiest to install the wing tube socket by turning spar until the CA cures.
it gently in a rotating motion like turning a screw.

❏ ❏ 19. Once the glue is dry, lift off the weights and remove
❏ ❏ 14. Confirm that your spar is pinned firmly to the the T-pins from the spars. Do not remove the wing from the
building board and all ribs are pressed down tight against building board.
the jigs and spar. Glue all wing joints in place with thin CA,
being careful not to get thin CA on the socket and being
careful NOT to glue the jigs to the wing structure. Use
medium CA to secure the socket in place. Note: The ribs ❏ ❏ 20. Glue the 1/8" x 1/4" x 48" basswood top TE spar to
are angled slightly in the webs. Do not attempt to force the the ribs and the TE web. Glue the 1/8" x 1/4" x 48"
ribs vertical. basswood top aileron spar in the slots in the ribs.

❏ ❏ 15. Test fit (DO NOT GLUE) the top spar into the ribs.
When you are confident you can fit the spar in place,
remove the spar. Lay a bead of medium CA along the top of ❏ ❏ 21. From a 3/32" x 3" x 36" sheet, cut four 8" long
the main web and wing tube socket and the corners of the sheets. Edge glue these 4 sheets together, creating the
rib slots, and reinstall the spar. main center sheet.
20
❏ ❏ 22. Position the main center sheet flush against the LE ❏ ❏ 26. Cut a 3/4" square from leftover 3/32" balsa. Use this
sheet and the outboard edge of R3. Trim the center sheet piece to sheet over the bolt block and R4, allowing sufficient
with the center line of the aileron spar. Glue the center sheet sheeting to hang over the inboard edge so that the cap strip
to the LE sheet, ribs, and aileron spar. will line up properly.

❏ ❏ 23. Select the 3/32" x 1/2" x 42" wing trailing edge

sheet, and sand one end so it meets with the center sheet
when aligned with the aft edge of the trailing edge web. Glue
in place to the center sheet, ribs, and trailing edge web.
❏ ❏ 27. Using a 7/64" drill bit, drill a hole centered on the bolt
block you just installed, being careful to drill close to but DO
NOT TOUCH the spar. NOTE: The aluminum tube IS NOT
drilled at this step. The tube will be drilled through the hole
you make now when the wing is mounted on the fuselage.

❏ ❏ 28. Using two 3/32" x 3/8" x 36" sticks, cut and glue cap
strips to ribs R4 through R14 between the LE sheet and TE
sheet only.

❏ ❏ 29. Remove the wing from the building board. Trim

everything flush with the root and tip ribs.

❏ ❏ 24. Position the die-cut 1/8" ply wing tube bolt block
(WBB) flush with the top of the outboard edge of R4 and the ❏ ❏ 30. Pin the LE jig to the building board. Place the wing
top of the top spar. Glue it in place. upside-down on the jig.

❏ ❏ 25. Use a small piece of leftover 1/8" ply to secure the ❏ ❏ 31. Shape the bottom of the LE web to the airfoil shape
trailing edge of the bolt block to the wing tube socket. of the ribs as you did the top.
21
❏ ❏ 32. Glue the bottom leading edge sheeting in place the
same as the top.

❏ ❏ 33. Install the bottom TE and aileron spars.

❏ ❏ 37. Set the wing right-side up on the building board.
From a piece of leftover sheeting, make a sheeting
support for the inboard side of the aileron servo tray.
❏ ❏ 34. Make and glue the center sheet and TE sheeting in Carefully sand the airfoil shape onto the top of the support.
place the same as you did the top. Glue with thin CA. Make and glue a second sheeting
support for the trailing edge of the aileron servo tray.
NOTE: Be careful not to change the shape of the sheeting
when installing these supports.
Before you continue, you must decide whether you are
going to use one aileron servo per aileron or two. All parts
and instructions are provided for either configuration. If you
have chosen not to purchase high torque servos with at ❏ ❏ 38. Use a hobby knife to cut the opening for the servo
least 100 in oz of torque, we strongly recommend utilizing in the sheeting, using the servo mount as a guide.
twin servos for the safety of your model. Alternatively, if you HINT: While the wing is right-side-up, use a hobby knife to
intend to exceed the recommended throws and utilize this cut just the corners of the servo opening. Turn the wing
model for 3D or freestyle aerobatic competition, we strongly upside-down again, and use a straightedge to cut straight
recommend using twin aileron servos. Twin servos offer you lines between the 4 corners you marked. Remove the piece
not only redundancy, but also additional rigidity for the of sheeting.
surface, decreased possibility of flutter, and more
consistent response under heavy aerodynamic loads. You
should note that sufficient room is provided for 45° throws.
Please read the Great Planes booklet: “A Look at ❏ ❏ 39. With the wing upside-down, fit the aileron servo in
Aerobatics” for more information. place and trim the sheeting around the rubber grommets on
the servo.
Note: Provide approximately 1/16" of clearance between
the servo and the sheeting.

Twin Servos Option

❏ ❏ 35. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply servo mount (ASM) to the
spar and the tube end cap.

❏ ❏ 36. Sheet over the servo mount with leftover 3/32" balsa.
22
 ❏ ❏ 45. Position your wing upside down on the work
surface. Test position the aileron sheet even with the leading
If you are installing the optional second aileron servo, glue edge of the aileron spar and the inboard end of the aileron
the die-cut 1/8" ply optional rib doubler (ORD) to the end cap. When you are comfortable positioning the
outboard edge of R11. Repeat steps 35 through 37 for the sheeting, coat the aileron ribs, end cap, and aileron spar
optional second servo tray. with medium CA and set the sheet back in position. Hold it
down until cured. Note: Be sure the sheet is making contact
with all the ribs; however, DO NOT weight the sheeting as
❏ ❏ 40. Use two 3/32" x 3/8" x 36" sticks to cap strip the you may twist the aileron.
bottom of the wing from the LE sheet to TE sheet only.

❏ ❏ 41. Trim everything flush with ribs R1 and R14.

❏ ❏ 42. Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa aileron end cap (AEC) to
the spars, leaving a 1/16" gap between the end cap and R3.

❏ ❏ 46. Turn your wing right-side up. Glue the die-cut 1/8"
ply aileron control horn mount (AHM) in position against
the outboard edge of R6 and the aft edge of the bottom
aileron spar.

❏ ❏ 43. Using a razor saw, cut the top and bottom aileron
spars between R3 and the end cap, being careful not to cut
the trailing edge spar.

❏ ❏ 47. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply large aileron control

❏ ❏ 44. True one 42" edge on each of two 3/32" x 4" x 42" horn doubler (AHD) to the aileron control horn mount,
balsa sheets. Cut the sheets as shown in the sketch above, against the outboard edge of R6 and on top of the bottom
making two aileron sheets. aileron spar.
23
 ❏ ❏ 52. Turn the wing right-side-up. Sand the trailing edge of
Twin Servos Option the aft center sheet as you did the aileron sheet in step 46.
If you chose to install twin aileron servos, repeat steps 44
and 45, securing the second set of control horn mounts
against the outboard edge of R11.
❏ ❏ 53. From the 3/32" x 4" wood left over from making the
bottom aft center sheet, position, cut and glue the top aft
center sheet. Note: Save the remaining 3/32" x 4" wood for
sheeting the second wing half.

❏ ❏ 54. Trim the trailing edge of the top aft center sheet
flush with the trailing edge of the bottom aft center sheet.

❏ ❏ 48. Sand the TE of the aileron sheet to the shape of the ❏ ❏ 55. Sand all sheeting flush with R1 and R14.
ribs, as shown above. Hint: Blocking up the leading edge of
the wing so that the bottom aileron sheeting is flat on your
building board makes this task very easy.

❏ ❏ 49. Glue the top aileron sheet in position, aligning it

over the bottom sheet, and positioning and gluing in place
as you did the bottom sheet in step 43.

❏ ❏ 56. Position and glue a 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 12" balsa wing

tip so that there is a small amount of overhang past the
leading edge, trailing edge, top and bottom of R14. Trim and
sand the wing tip to match the airfoil shape of R14.

❏ ❏ 50. Place your wing upside down on your work surface.

Position a 3/32" x 4" x 36" balsa sheet against the center
sheeting and flush with the outboard edge of R3. Trim the
sheet slightly inboard of R1, making one aft center sheet.
Glue the aft center sheet to the ribs and spar, being careful
not to glue R3 to the aileron end cap. Note: If this is your
second time through this step, you will be using the leftover
3/32" x 4" sheet from the first wing, not a new 36" sheet.

❏ ❏ 57. Use a razor saw to cut the tabs off of the LE. Sand
everything flush with the LE web.

❏ ❏ 58. Glue a 1/2" x 1-1/4" x 48" balsa stick, the wing

leading edge, centered onto the front of the LE web. Sand
the ends of the leading edge flush with ribs R1 and R14.
Hint: By aligning your leading edge flush with the outboard
edge of one side of the sheeting, then drawing a line along
❏ ❏ 51. Position your straightedge flush with the trailing edge the other side of the sheeting, and pre-cutting the leading
of the aileron sheet and extending inboard past R1. Trim the edge to that line (being careful not to cut it too small), you
aft center sheet flush with the rest of the trailing edge. minimize the excess wood needing to be sanded.
24
❏ ❏ 59. Shape the leading edge to transition between the ❏ ❏ 64. Glue a 1/2" x 1-1/4" x 42" balsa stick, the aileron
templates provided. Note: There is one template for the root leading edge, to the leading edge of the aileron spars.
which is fairly wide and blunt. This should be used for the Sand the aileron leading edge flush with the aileron end cap
root of this wing in all cases. Use the appropriate tip and R14.
template for your style of flying. If you plan to utilize the
model for aerobatics competition and wish for maximum
snap performance, use the smaller, sharper tip template. If ❏ ❏ 65. Sand the top and bottom of the aileron leading
you plan to utilize this model for sport flying only and desire edge to the shape of the aileron sheeting.
an airplane which is slightly less “snappy” and less prone to
tip stall, utilize the larger, wider tip template.
❏ ❏ 66. Sand a V shape onto the aileron leading edge as
shown on the plan.
❏ ❏ 60. Using your razor saw, cut the aileron from the wing.
Sand the remaining rib pieces flush with the wing’s TE web and
the aft center sheeting flush with R3. Sand everything flush ❏ ❏ 67. Using giant scale hinges (not provided), hinge BUT
with the leading edge of the aileron spars. Sand the sheeting DO NOT GLUE the aileron to the wing as you did the
flush with the inboard and outboard ends of the aileron. elevators to the stab halves.

❏ ❏ 61. From a 1/2" x 3/4" x 36" balsa stick, cut ten 3" long Sit back and relax! Take a look at your great work! Go
hinge blocks. ahead, pick it up. Incredible how light, yet rigid, the structure
is, isn’t it? Just wait until you fly it!

❏ 68. If this is the first time through, go back to step one of

Build the Wing Panels and build the left wing half.

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

Determine the Right-Thrust Offset

❏ ❏ 62. Carefully fit and glue five hinge blocks between the ❏ 1. Use the formula below to calculate your box lengths.
TE spars of the wing and flush against the leading edge of Measure the length of your engine from the back of the
the TE web as shown on the plan. thrust washer to the back of the mounting plate. Subtract
this engine length from 13-3/8", determining the left firewall
box length. Subtract 1/4" from left firewall length to
determine the right firewall box length.
Hint: For example, if the engine is 6-3/4" long, the left
firewall box length is13-3/8" - 6-3/4" = 6-5/8" and the right
firewall box length is 6-5/8 - 2/8" = 6-3/8".

Calculate Left firewall box length:

13-3/8"
less Engine Length: - _________"
Left firewall box length = _________"

Calculate Right firewall box length:

❏ ❏ 63. Fit and glue the remaining 5 hinge blocks between
the aileron spars as shown on the plan, being sure they are “Left firewall box length: "
flush with the leading edge of the aileron spars and glued less 1/4" - 1/4"
firmly to the aileron spars. Note: The hinge block positioned Right Firewall box length: = __________"
on top of the control horn support must be trimmed to
snugly fit against the control horn support AND both spars.
25
 Build the Fuselage Center Box Sides

❏ 1. Unroll your fuselage plan onto your work surface. Cut

the left edge of Fuselage Plan 2 at the dotted line. Overlap
Plan 2 over Plan 1, aligning the “align here” markers and
tape in place.

❏ ❏ 6. Select four 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" basswood sticks. Cut a

smooth angle 1" deep into one end of each of the 4 sticks.
Using medium CA, splice 2 pairs together, making 2 center
box longerons. Hint: By laying two sticks on top of each
other and then cutting the angle, a perfect joint will be made.

❏ ❏ 2. Unroll your fuse plan onto your work surface. Be sure

to cover it with Great Planes Plan Protector. Select one 1/8"
die-cut ply FCB1 and FCB3 and one 1/8" laser-cut ply
FCB2 and FCB4. Building over the plan and using thin CA,
glue FCB1 to FCB2 as shown. Sand both sides of the glue ❏ ❏ 7. Position the lower center box longeron over the plan
joint smooth. Use medium CA to glue FCB4 onto FCB1 and with the splice centered over the joint support and with the
FCB2, aligning the dowel hole and wing tube. Using angled sides of the splice facing toward the inside/outside
medium CA, glue FCB3 to FCB1, 2 and 4. This assembly is of the aircraft, NOT top-to-bottom. HINT: Remember, ALL
now known as your right forward center box side. Write references such as top and bottom always refer to the
“right inside” on FCB3. finished aircraft’s top or bottom, not your work surface’s top.
When in doubt, picture yourself in the aircraft’s cockpit.
❏ 3. Repeat step 1, building a left forward center box
side. NOTE: Be sure to build a left and a right side.

❏ 4. Select the right center box side. Measure from the

leading edge of FCB4 forward the Right Firewall Box Length
which you calculated in step 1. Trim the center box side to
this length. Similarly measure and trim the left center side to
the Left Firewall Box Length.

❏ ❏ 5. Pin the right forward center box side in position over

the plan. Pin the laser-cut 1/8" ply right aft center box side ❏ ❏ 8. Trim the lower longeron to fit into the aft center box
(ACB) in position over the plan. NOTE: If you are building side and flush with the leading edge of FCB4. Glue the
the left side, align the tube holes - not the firewall. longeron to the forward and aft center box sides with thin CA.
26
❏ ❏ 9. Position the upper center box longeron, again being ❏ 13. Repeat steps 4 through 10, building the LEFT fuse
careful that the splice is properly positioned over the joint side as a mirror image on top of the RIGHT fuse side.
support and with the angled sides facing in/out. Trim the
upper longeron to length and glue it to the forward and aft
center box sides with thin CA.

❏ ❏ 10. Using a 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue
the 3 fuse box vertical trusses. NOTE: It is critical that you
do not spread or pinch the longerons when you install the
trusses. You may wish to use T pins to support the outside ❏ 14. With the fuse sides laying mirrored as shown in the
edges of the fuselage to be sure they don’t get pushed out photo above, gently sand the joints where the joint supports
of position. will be installed. Then install the 12 die-cut 1/8" ply joint
supports (JS) over their locations on the plan. NOTE: Be
SURE you are putting the joint supports on the INSIDE of
the left and INSIDE of the right fuse sides.

Assemble the Fuselage Center Box

❏ ❏ 11. Using the remaining 1/4" x 1/4" balsa and an

additional 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the DESIGNER’S NOTES: During this entire segment of
4 fuse box diagonal trusses, again being careful not to assembly the center box sides MUST be perpendicular to
deform or reposition the longerons. the work surface. You should check that the sides remain
perpendicular to the work surface prior to gluing each and
every piece.

All formers are installed with the embossed part #s going

❏ 12. Unpin the right fuse side from the plan. Flip it over so toward the front of the aircraft AND with the “top” label, if
the right inside is now against the work surface. Cover the applicable, toward the top of the aircraft.
right fuse side with Great Planes Plan Protector.
27
❏ 1. Select the die-cut 1/8" ply tail gear mount (TGM) and
tail gear mount doubler (TGMD). Glue the doubler to the
tail gear mount, aligning the leading and trailing edges. This
assembly is now known as the tail gear mount assembly.
❏ 4. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply F11 and the tail gear mount
assembly in position. NOTE: The doubler slides in between
the aft box sides with the tail gear mount being flush with
the bottom of the aft box sides.

❏ 2. Select the die-cut 1/8" ply former F7. Position your

center box sides inverted over the bottom view plan (the
upper longeron will set flush along the entire length of the
fuse plan.) Temporarily lock F7 in place over the center box
sides in front of the vertical trusses with the “top” label
against your work surface. NOTE: This former is in ❏ 5. Position the die-cut 1/8" ply formers F9 and F8 in front
position temporarily to help keep the center box sides in of the vertical trusses, with F8’s top label against the plan.
position while you assemble the aft center box. Don't glue Glue F9 and F8 in position. HINT: Using C clamps or
it in place until step 6. regular office clamps to secure the formers to the vertical
trusses while the CA cures will help ensure an excellent
bond.

❏ 3. Select the die-cut 1/8" ply aft center box support

(ACBS) and F10. Test fit both pieces between the aft box
sides. When comfortable installing them, glue them in place
with thin CA. Be sure to hold all pieces tightly in place until
your CA has cured completely. ❏ 6. Position the die-cut 1/8" ply former F6 in front of the
28
vertical trusses. Glue F7 and then F6 in position. DESIGNER’S NOTE: Steps 10 through 12 are where the
fuselage is locked into its final configuration. Check for
straightness and be sure the fuse is positioned properly
over the plan. It is CRITICAL that it does not have a twist
or banana shape. Be very careful during these steps to
make sure the cross trusses are a perfect fit and do not
bow the fuse longerons.

We would like to again remind you of our earlier caution

– trust the design. It is very strong and light weight. It
performs exceptionally well and is able to stand the most
extreme aerobatic maneuvers in its stock configuration.

❏ 7. Select the die-cut 1/8" ply former F5. Position it at the

trailing edge of the forward box sides and glue it to the
forward center box sides.

❏ 8. Select the two die-cut 1/8" ply formers F3/4. Position

them in their notches in the forward center box sides and use
thin CA to glue them in place in the F3 and F4 locations.
NOTE: F3 and F4 are the same part; two are provided for you.

❏ 10. Using a 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue
one side-to-side cross truss between the bottom longerons
which is centered between formers F4 and F5 as shown on
the plan.

❏ 9. Position and glue the 1/8" x 5-1/2" x 9-3/4" birch ply

landing gear support plate to the forward fuse sides
and formers.

❏ 11. Using the leftover 1/4" x 1/4" balsa stick and an

additional 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the
seven bottom diagonal cross trusses as shown on the plan.

29
❏ 12. Turn the fuselage right-side-up. Using 1/4" x 1/4"x 36" ❏ 3. Temporarily mount your engine to the firewall, centered
balsa sticks, fit and glue the 3 upper diagonal cross trusses. on the marks you just made. This is the technique we used
Note: The upper cross trusses run opposite to the lower to mount the MacMinarelli engines: mark the four holes for
cross trusses as shown on the plan. the mounting bolts onto the firewall. Drill 15/64" holes
through the firewall. Tap four 10-32 blind nuts (not included,
Install the Firewall GPMQ3330) into the back of the firewall with a hammer.
Use thin CA around the blind nuts to help secure them,
being careful not to get CA in the threads. Use four 2" long
❏ 1. Select the two pre-cut 1/4" x 5-1/2" x 6-7/32" ply 10-32 Allen bolts and #10 lock washers (not included) to
firewalls. Laminate them together with 6-minute epoxy. This mount your engine to the firewall. Remove the engine and
assembly is now known as the firewall or F1. set it and its hardware aside.

❏ 4. Aligning the forward edge of the firewall with the

forward edge of the forward box sides, glue the firewall to
the box sides with 30-minute epoxy. NOTE: Be sure to
clamp it in position and leave it to cure completely.

❏ 5. Drill three 1/8" holes one inch deep through each of the
❏ 2. Mark a top front on your firewall. Make a vertical line 3" forward fuse sides into the firewall. Space the holes evenly
from the left edge and a horizontal line 2-11/16" from the down each side of the firewall. From the 1/8" dowel, cut 1"
top. (Note that this location is offset for the thrust angles long pieces. Glue the dowels into the firewall/box side with
built into the model and will result in your crankshaft exiting 6-minute epoxy and allow to cure completely.
centered on the thrust line and on the cowl.)

Mounting the Landing Gears

30
❏ ❏ 3. Using an 11/64" drill bit, drill 2 holes through each ❏ 8. Drill a 5/32" hole which is centered on the fuselage and
doubler, forward box side and landing gear support. The is 3-1/4" forward of the fuse’s trailing edge as shown in
holes are positioned 1/2" up from the bottom of the doubler the photo.
and 3/4" from the leading edge and 1-1/4" from the TE.
❏ 9. Glue the 3/4" x 3/4" x 1-1/2" birch ply tail gear torque
❏ ❏ 4. Using the 8-32 x 3/4" socket head cap screws and block to the top of the tail gear mount, centered on the hole
the 8-32 nylon lock nuts, bolt the landing gear support to the with the block running width-wise across the fuse. Redrill
forward center box side and landing gear support doubler. your 5/32" hole back through the tail gear mount and the tail
Remove the clamp. gear torque block after the glue has cured.

❏ 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the left landing gear support.

❏ 6. Locate the aluminum main landing gear. Using the

fuselage bottom view on the plan as a reference, drill four
11/64" holes in the gear. The holes are placed 3/4" from the
bend and 1/2" from the leading and trailing edges of the
gear respectively.

❏ 10. Fit the tail gear in place. Mount the straps to the tail
gear mount using the screws included with the tail gear. Use
the plan as a reference.

WOW!!! The GEAR’S on already!! It won’t be long now

before this giant beauty is done!

❏ 7. Center the main gear on the fuselage with the leading

edge of the gear flush with the trailing edge of F3. Using the
hole in the gear as a guide, drill the right front 11/64" hole
through the birch landing gear plate and the aluminum Mounting the Wing & Tail
landing gear supports. Bolt the gear to the fuse with an
8-32 x 3/4" socket head cap screw and a nylon lock nut. Drill ❏ 1. From the two 5/16" x 18" dowels, cut one 9" long wing
and bolt the remaining 3 holes one at a time. forward anti-rotation dowel, one 13" long wing aft anti-
rotation dowel, and one 5" long stab anti-rotation dowel.
If you are not using the recommended Ohio SuperStar Round both ends of the dowels as shown on the plan.
Large Tail Gear, mount and secure your tail gear as
recommended by the manufacturer. To attach the ❏ 2. Fit the 6" fuselage segment of wing tube socket
recommended tail gear (not included), complete steps 8 through the holes in the center box sides. DO NOT GLUE
through 10. the wing tube socket in position at this time.
31
❏ 3. Slide the 36" aluminum tube through the fuse. Center INSTALLING YOUR WING
the tube on the fuse, and mark the tube with a permanent
marker where it exits both of the center box sides. When you fit the Extra’s wing to the tube, you will find it is
a snug fit that requires some force. When putting your
❏ 4. Fit the aft anti-rotation dowel through the slots in the aircraft together to fly, it is helpful to have someone
center box sides and center it on the fuse. NOTE: The putting light pressure against the first wing tip or to butt
forward anti-rotation dowel will not be installed until final the tip against a car tire, then push the wing onto the tube
assembly. Set it aside in a safe place. from the other side. To remove the wing from the aircraft,
stand with the fuselage resting against the back of your
legs and pull the wing away from the fuselage. Always
handle the wing by the leading and trailing edges and be
careful not to put your hand through either the wings’ or
fuselage’s sheeting.

❏ 5. Temporarily fit the die-cut 1/8" ply servo/tank tray

(STT) in position. NOTE: Do NOT glue this tray at this time.
You will install the servos, tank, receiver and battery onto
the tray prior to its final installation.

❏ 6. Slip the right wing panel onto the tube and dowel until
it is tight against the center box side, making sure that the
mark you made on the tube is still properly positioned off
the left side of the center box. NOTE: If the wing panels do
not fit perfectly flush the whole length of the root rib, that’s
OK. The outer shell will cover the wing/fuse joint. Simply be
sure the wing has good, firm contact against the fuse.
❏ 9. Using a tape measure, measure from the center of F11
to the trailing edge of each wing panel. If the measurements
are not identical, note which side needs to be shifted, then
remove the wings and the wing tube socket from the fuse.
Enlarge the hole in the center box slightly. Reinstall and re-
measure. Adjust as needed until a perfect fit is achieved.
NOTE: This measurement’s accuracy is critical to 1/16".

❏ 10. Once the wing is properly aligned, glue the center wing
tube socket to the center box with medium CA and sand it
flush. DO NOT glue the servo/tank tray in at this time.

❏ 11. Drill, tap and bolt the left wing to the tube as you did
❏ 7. Using the previously drilled hole in the wing tube bolt the right.
block as a guide, drill a 7/64" hole through the wing tube bolt
block and through the top of the wing tube. Tap the top of
the wing tube with a 6-32 tap. Bolt the tube to the right wing ❏ 12. Install the remaining piece of stab tube socket in place
panel with a 6-32 x 3/4" bolt. in the round forward hole in the aft box sides. DO NOT glue
at this time. Slide the aluminum tube through the stab tube
❏ 8. Slide the left wing panel onto the tube and flush against socket and center it on the fuse.
the fuse. DO NOT drill or mount the left wing panel at NOTE: The oblong hole to the rear of the tube hole is for
this time. running the elevator servo leads.
32
 OK, had an evening to show off your progress? Terrific,
let's get back to work.

❏ 19. Remove the wings, stab, anti-rotation dowels, and

main and tail gear and set them aside. Leave the tank/servo
tray in place but DO NOT glue.

Install the Fuselage Outer Shell

❏ 13. Step back approximately 5’ from the tail of the aircraft,
and confirm the stab tube is parallel to the wing. If it is not
parallel, remove the tube and socket, and adjust the holes
in the aft center box sides in SMALL increments until the
alignment is perfect.

❏ 14. Glue the stab tube socket in place. Cut the excess
flush with the fuse sides, then sand the socket flush with the
outside of the aft center box sides.

❏ 15. Slide the stab anti-rotation dowel into the aft center
box sides and center it. DO NOT glue at this time.

❏ 16. Slide the 17-1/2" aluminum stab tube through the stab
tube socket and center it on the fuse. Mark on the tube
where it meets the outside of the aft center box sides.

❏ 17. Slide the right stab panel onto the tube flush with the
fuse side. Confirm the tube is still in position. Drill through
the stab bolt block with a 7/64" drill bit and tap with a 6-32 ❏ ❏ 1. Fit and glue one of each of the die-cut 1/8" ply shell
tap. Bolt it in place with a 6-32 x 3/4" bolt. formers SF1 and SF2 in position on the right fuse side,
making sure they are perpendicular to the center box side.

❏ 18. Slide the left stab panel onto the tube. Drill, tap and
bolt the panel to the tube.

WOW! Look at it! Doesn’t it look great?? Don’t worry

that the structure can still twist some at this point; the ❏ ❏ 2. Fit and glue one of each of the die-cut 1/8" ply SF3
decks and sheeting will take care of all that. You should and SF4 in position, again making sure they are
be VERY proud! It’ll be ready to fly in no time! Go ahead, perpendicular to the center box side and also confirming the
call your favorite flying buddies to come see it! We’ll parts are oriented with the notches toward the top of the
wait for you. aircraft, as shown in the photo.
33
❏ ❏ 3. Fit and glue one of each of the die-cut 1/8" ply SF5 ❏ ❏ 2. Select one of the four outer shell stringers to be used
and SF6 in position. Note that SF5 aligns with F5, and SF6 as the right upper outer shell stringer. Sand a 6-1/2" long
is positioned behind and glued to the aft side of the balsa taper onto the stringer and position the tapered end flush
vertical truss. with the upper inner box longeron and aligned with the
leading edge of F9. Position the stringer flush against the
notches in the shell formers and over the plan and glue it in
place. Trim the leading edge flush with SF1.

❏ ❏ 3. Select one of the three remaining outer shell

stringers to be used as the right lower outer shell stringer.
Measure 6" in from one end and make a notch which is 2-
1/2" long (from 6" to 8-1/2") and 1/8" deep.
❏ ❏ 4. Fit and glue one of each of the die-cut 1/8" ply shell
sub-formers SF3A, SF4A and SF5A in position with the
point aligned with the bottom of the lower center box
longerons. Note that the sub-formers are aligned with the
SF3, SF4 and SF5 formers respectively.

❏ 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4, installing the shell formers

and sub formers to the left fuse side.

Build the Outer Shell Stringers

❏ 1. Using the same technique as when you made the inner

box longerons, splice and glue eight 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa
sticks in pairs, making four 72" long outer shell stringers.

❏ ❏ 4. Position the stringer flush against F9 and on the

notches along the shell formers and sub formers. Glue the
trailing edge of this stringer flush against the leading edge
34
of F9 and with the very trailing edge corner flush against the
top of the bottom inner box longeron. Carefully position and
Sheeting the Fuselage
glue the stringer flush with the outer edge of F8, NOT
touching the trusses. Glue the stringer into the notches in
DESIGNER’S NOTE: The sheeting on this fuselage is
the remaining formers and cut the excess off flush with SF1.
intentionally designed to provide your model with a scale
appearance as well as exceptional strength in critical
areas. The full size Extra has a mixed composite and
cloth skin: the fuselage is skinned in composite from just
behind the cockpit back all the way forward to the cowl;
the rear portion of the fuselage is covered in fabric. This
model is sheeted where the full scale model is composite
skinned, and is open structure to be covered in MonoKote
for the optimum scale appearance behind the cockpit.

❏ ❏ 1. Edge glue two 3/32" x 3" x 36" sheets, making a 6"

wide outer shell lower sheet.

❏ ❏ 2. Press one pin into the center of the right side outer
❏ ❏ 5. Locate the die-cut 1/8" ply SF7 former. Position the shell center longeron at formers SF1, SF4 and SF7. NOTE:
lower corner flush with the trailing edge of SF6 and with the The pins are just to locate sheeting and should not be
outer edge flush with the outer edge of the lower stringer. pressed deeply into the bass longeron.
Gently slide the upper end of SF7 forward until it contacts the
inner box longeron and the outer stringer, being careful not to ❏ ❏ 3. Position the outer shell lower sheet 1/4" behind the
bow SF7. Glue it in place to the stringer, SF7 and longeron. aft most point of SF7 and sitting on the pins, pressed tight
against the longeron. (Leave the excess overhanging SF1
for now.) Glue the sheet to the longeron.

❏ ❏ 6. Splice two 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" basswood sticks, making

a 60" long right side outer shell center longeron. Position
and glue the center longeron into the notches in the formers. ❏ ❏ 4. Trim the sheeting extending 1/4" behind the TE of SF7.

❏ ❏ 5. Taking your time, use medium CA to glue the sheeting

to formers SF1 through SF7, and to the lower stringer. HINT:
You may want to spray the outside of the sheet with a
water/ammonia mix to help it bend without cracking.

❏ ❏ 7. Use a razor plane to shape the lower outer stringer

from SF6 forward to SF1, matching the shape shown on the
cross sections.
❏ ❏ 6. Trim the sheeting flush with the LE of SF1 and the
❏ 8. Repeat steps 2-7 for the left side of the fuse. bottom of the outer shell lower stringer.
35
 ❏ 16. Cut two 3/32" x 1/4" x 36" balsa sticks into six 12"
fuse side shapers. Cut an angle on each one to match the
angle of the side sheeting when positioned lengthwise so it
is 3/32" wide and 1/4" tall. Position and glue each shaper
along the outer shell stringers (3 on each side) and flush
against the fuse outer shell sheeting.

❏ 17. Gradually taper each shaper from the sheeting into

the outer shell stringers. HINT: A razor plane does this task
exceptionally well. If you’ve never used a razor plane, do
yourself a favor and buy or borrow a razor plane for this
task. This one task alone will very likely show you just how
invaluable this tool is.
❏ ❏ 7. Slide the wing tube through from the left side of the
fuse until it is pushing lightly on the side sheet you just
installed. Working a little at a time, cut an opening in the
sheeting for the wing tube. NOTE: The size and position of
this hole is not critical front-to-back, but there is only 1/4" of
wing above the tube, so be very careful with how high you
cut the sheeting.

❏ ❏ 8. Slide in the aft anti-rotation dowel and trim the

sheeting as you did for the wing tube.

❏ ❏ 9. Remove the anti-rotation dowel and wing tube.

❏ 10. Repeat steps 1-9, sheeting the right side of the fuse.

❏ ❏ 11. Turn the fuselage right-side-up on your work surface.

Use a razor plane to shape the right side upper center box
stringer just as you did the lower center box stringer.

❏ ❏ 12. Glue a 3/32" x 3" x 36" outer shell upper sheet to ❏ 18. Read the following expert tip then cut out both wing
the center longeron and the lower sheet, making sure to openings in the sheeting as shown in the photo.
leave at least 1/4" of balsa extending behind the trailing
edge of the upper end of SF7.

❏ ❏ 13. Use a straightedge to continue the angle on the

trailing edge of the sheeting from the lower sheet onto this A simple tool made from some leftover basswood and a
upper sheet. single-edge razor blade can really help make this task
easier. Glue a piece of leftover 1/8" x 1/4" basswood (at
❏ ❏ 14. Glue the upper sheet to the formers and the upper least 4", ideally about 6" in length) to one side of a single-
stringer. Trim the sheet flush with the top of the upper edge razor blade, standing up vertically. You can now hold
stringer and the leading edge of SF1. the bass stick along the wing and slide the razor through
the sheeting along the edge of the wing without risking
❏ 15. Repeat steps 11 to 14, installing the upper sheeting
cutting the wing.
on the left side.
36
 ❏ 4. From leftover 1/4" x 1/4" balsa stick, position and glue
the center top deck stringer and trim it flush with the leading
edge of FD1 and the trailing edge of FD3.

❏ 5. From six 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" balsa sticks, cut six 10" long front
deck side stringers. Note: Cut one 10" piece from each 36"
stick. Fit and glue the six side stringers and trim them flush with
the leading edge of FD1 and the trailing edge of FD3.
NOTE: Save the six 26" long pieces for the turtle deck stringers.

❏ 6. From 1/8" x 1/8" balsa stick (left over from the wing
saddle sheeting support), fit and glue two front deck
gluing stringers flush against the outer shell longerons
and tight in the notches in FD1, 2, and 3. Trim the gluing
❏ 19. Using three 1/8" x 1/8" x 36" balsa sticks, line the stringers flush with FD1 and FD3 as you did the others.
inner edge of the wing openings in the fuse outer shell
sheeting. HINT: Cut pieces to fit between the formers. Bend ❏ 7. From two 3/32" x 3" x 36" balsa sheets, cut five 11" long
this inner lining to follow the wing shape on the inside of the sheets. Edge glue the 5 sheets together, creating one 11" x
sheeting (above and below the wing), giving the sheeting 15" front deck sheet. Sand both sides of the sheet smooth.
additional support. Glue the strips in place.

Build the Front Deck

❏ 1. Set the fuse right-side-up on your work surface.
Position FD1 into its notches and glue in place.

❏ 2. Position FD2 flush against the trailing edge of former

SF2 and tight against the stringers and longerons. Glue
it in place.

❏ 8. Position the sheet flat across the top of the front deck
and gently wrap the sheet to the left side outer shell
sheeting. Angle the edge of the front deck sheet until it
matches the angle of the shell sheeting. Glue the deck
sheet to the shell sheeting and to the gluing stringer.

❏ 9. Wet the outside of the deck sheet liberally with a

water/ammonia mix to help it bend. Allow the sheet to hang
over the front deck for several minutes to help it conform to
❏ 3. Position FD3 flush against the trailing edge of former shape. HINT: A damp, heavy towel will drape over the
SF3, and set the angle using the IP gauge. Glue FD3 in sheeting and help hold it in place and keep it wet as it
place. NOTE: Be careful not to glue the IP gauge. conforms to the deck shape.
37
❏ 10. Test wrap the sheet over the front deck several times
until you can comfortably get it tight along the formers and
running along the outer shell sheet. When you are confident
that you have a good, tight fit and the sheeting isn’t going to
split, trim the right side of the sheet until it mates up to the
outer shell sheeting and the gluing stringer as the left side
does. HINT: We recommend trimming a small amount at a
time until you get a perfect fit. The sheeting MUST be tight
across the formers AND have a good glue joint to the gluing
stringer and outer shell sheeting.

❏ 11. Carefully roll the top deck sheet back from the
stringers and formers. Coat the formers and stringers with
medium CA where they make contact with the sheet.
Working from the left side, smoothly roll the front deck sheet
over the formers and stringers, being careful to hold it tight
to the stringers and formers along the way. Hold in place
until the CA has fully cured. NOTE: Do NOT attempt the
accelerator approach here. You will have accelerator kicking ❏ 17. Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill pilot holes through FBA and
off the CA before the sheeting is in contact. four mounting blocks, and also two holes equally spaced
across the front of the firewall. Using six of the #4x1/2"
❏ 12. Trim and sand the front deck and outer shell sheeting screws, attach the access hatch to the mounting blocks and
flush with SF1, FD1 and FD3. to the firewall. Remove the screws and hatch and harden
the threads with thin CA.

Note: Firewall removed from this photo for clarity.

❏ 13. Position and glue the die-cut 1/8" ply formers F2, F2A Mount the Cowl
and F2B, being sure to leave an equal gap all the way
around for the cowling to fit flush against the upper deck ❏ 1. Bolt the engine to the firewall.
sheet. Refer to the F2 cross section on the plan as needed.
❏ 2. Trim the bottom of the cowl as shown on the plan and
❏ 14. Select seventeen of the 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" basswood the air inlet from the front of the cowl. Note that you may
cowl mounting blocks. Test fit the blocks into the notches need to trim this air outlet larger to accommodate your
in the F2 ring, rounding the blocks slightly to match the exhaust. Do NOT decrease the size of the air outlet any
shape of F2. When satisfied with the fits, glue them in place. smaller than shown on the plan, but cutting it larger as
needed for your engine application is fine.
❏ 15. Select the two pre-cut 1/8" x 6" x 6-9/16" light ply
pieces, the firewall box bottom (FBB) and access hatch ❏ 3. Fit the cowl in place on the fuselage, making sure that
(FBA). Align one as the box bottom FBB flush against F2, the spinner will fit without rubbing the cowl. When you can
and mark on FBB where it meets the leading edge of the fit the cowl confidently, confirm the cowl is square on the
firewall. Trim FBB at the line, and glue FBB to the formers, fuselage, and drill a 3/32" hole through the top of the cowl
forward box sides, basswood longerons and firewall. and the top center cowl block and screw the cowl in position
with a #4 x 1/2" screw. Confirming at each step that the cowl
❏ 16. Position the access hatch FBA flush against F2A and is still straight and square, drill each mounting block hole
F2B and mark the firewall location as you did for FBB. Trim and screw the cowl to each mounting block.
FBA. Select the remaining four 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" basswood
hatch mounting blocks and position and glue them flush ❏ 4. Remove the cowl and engine and set them aside.
with the upper bass longerons as shown on the plan. Harden the threads in each cowl mounting block with thin CA.
38
 center stringer into the notches in TD4 then, TD3 and then,
Build the Turtle Deck TD2, leaving the excess overhanging past TD2. NOTE: Be
careful to keep the formers vertical.

❏ 1. Position and glue the die-cut 1/8" ply formers TD4, TD3
and TD2 vertically against the trailing edge of formers F9,
F8 and F7 respectively, centering the parts side-to-side.

❏ 5. Position the die-cut 1/8" ply turtle deck former TD1 in

place, centering it side-to-side and positioning its trailing
edge at the marks you made in step 3. Angle the former
back until the center stringer locks nicely into the notch in
TD1. Glue TD1 to the center stringer, center box longerons
and outer shell stringers.

❏ 6. Using the remaining five 26" long balsa sticks and one
1/8" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick, position and glue the six turtle
deck outer stringers into position in the notches in the
turtle deck formers. Trim all 7 stringers flush with the leading
❏ 2. Position and glue the die-cut 1/8" ply fin plate (FP) flush edge of TD1 and the trailing edge of TD4.
against the trailing edge of TD4 and centered side-to-side.

❏ 3. Measure 3-3/4" forward of the leading edge of TD2 and

make marks on both of the inner box longerons at that
location. This will be the trailing edge of TD1.
❏ 7. Using two 1/8" x 1/8" x 36" balsa sticks, fit and glue two
turtle deck gluing stringers in the bottom notches of the
formers. Trim the excess flush with the leading edge of TD1
and the trailing edge of TD4. NOTE: Be sure the gluing
stringer is tight in the notches and not flush with the outer
shell stringers or your sheeting won’t fit properly.

❏ 8. Draw a centerline down the length of the fin plate.

Temporarily position the fin in place, first aligning the fin
post centered onto the trailing edge of the fuse, and then
❏ 4. Select one of the 1/8" x 1/4" x 26" balsa sticks left over aligning the leading edge of the fin on the centerline you
from the front deck. Position and glue this turtle deck just drew.
39
 sheeting across the rear of the fuse. Allow the sheeting to dry
completely overnight. NOTE: This is probably the most time
consuming step of the entire kit. Take your time and be
patient, being careful not to split the sheeting. If you are
patient and allow the water and gravity to work together, the
sheeting will bend smoothly and cleanly and you’ll get a great
looking turtle deck. If you try to rush it you will likely split the
sheet and have to start over again.

❏ 14. Double check that the sheeting is completely dry

before continuing. While the sheeting is still clamped in
❏ 9. From leftover 1/4" x 1/4" balsa, cut two 2" long fin place, lay the fuselage on its side. Using a straight edge,
locators. Glue the two locators as shown in the photo, trim the left side of the sheeting flush with the top of the
being careful not to glue the fin in place. Remove the fin outer box longeron. Trim the right side of the sheeting 1/4"
and set it aside. NOTE: These fin locators will be used to below the outer box longeron.
properly position your fin later.
❏ 15. Using medium CA, glue the turtle deck sheet to the
❏ 10. Select the five 3/32" x 4" x 36" long sheets, and left side gluing stringer and longeron.
carefully inspect all 5 sheets. Select the softest sheet for the
center piece. Edge glue the 5 sheets, creating the turtle ❏ 16. Confirm that the sheet is tight against the formers,
deck sheeting. NOTE: The center sheet has to do a sharp and trim the right side a little at a time until it mates to the
bend. It is important that you use the softest sheet to gluing stringer and longeron.
minimize the chance of it splitting.

❏ 11. Wet one side of the sheet liberally. This will be the
outside of the turtle deck sheeting. Let the sheet set flat for
5 minutes to allow the water to soak into the sheeting.

❏ 12. Position the sheet over the turtle deck with the center
sheet centered on the top stringer and a small amount of ❏ 17. Roll the sheeting back, on and off the stringers a few
excess hanging behind the trailing edge of the fin plate (do not times until you can position it easily. Make sure it has good
end the sheeting at TD4). Lay very wet paper towels along the contact with the stringers and formers along the whole
center sheet and allow gravity to start to curve the sheet for length of the turtle deck. When you are confident fitting it,
approximately an hour. Respray the entire sheet and the paper lay a bead of medium CA along all the turtle deck stringers,
towels and gradually pull the sheeting down. Repeat this formers, and the right side gluing stringer and longeron.
process until the sheeting hangs easily over the deck. Position the sheeting in place and hold firmly along the
stringers and formers until the CA has fully cured. NOTE: It
is not as important that you get glue on every joint as it is
that the sheeting makes good contact with all the stringers
and formers along the whole length of the deck. This
sheeting is a critical structural component of your
aircraft and must be well fitted. In the next step you can
catch any places where you did not get a good coating of
CA, but only if you made good contact in this step.

❏ 18. Once the CA has dried, turn the fuselage upside

down and use thin CA to back up any places where the
sheet did not get adequately glued, but only if the sheet is
already making good contact. If it is not and you attempt to
❏ 13. When the sheeting has curved enough, clamp the sides force it now, you will likely split your sheeting and have to cut
to the fuse bottom on both sides and clamp the rear of the it off and start over.
40
 and the TE of the fuse. Do not disturb for at least ½ hour to
allow the epoxy to fully and properly cure.

❏ 22. Using a piece of leftover 3/8" x 5/8" balsa, cut a 1-1/2"

long hinge block. Using the plan as a reference, locate the
lowest hinge block in the rudder, and glue the hinge block
you just made into the fuse against the F11 at that location.

❏ 23. Using the cross sections on the plan as a reference,

bevel the trailing edge of the fin post to match the
❏ 19. Trim and sand the sheeting flush with former TD1. shape of the fuselage and to allow for full rudder throw.
Bevel the leading edge of the rudder to match the angle
shown on the plan.

Install the Cockpit & Canopy

❏ 1. Select the four pieces of 3/32" x 3" x 24" hard balsa
cockpit floor sheeting. Cut them in half and edge glue
seven pieces, making a 12" x 21" balsa sheet. Position one
12" edge against FD3 and trim the length so the trailing
edge is flush with TD1.

❏ 20. Rough cut a slot for the fin approximately 8-5/8" long,
3/4" wide at the trailing edge. Removing a little material at a
time, cut the slot in the turtle deck sheeting until it properly
fits the fin. Note: Take your time and be patient, fitting the ❏ 2. Using a pen, mark where the fuse makes contact with the
fin as you go. underside of the cockpit floor sheeting on each fuse side. Trim
the floor sheeting 1/16" inside of the lines you marked.

❏ 21. Draw a centerline down the TE of the fin. Fit the stab
tube in place. Fit the fin in place against the fin locators ❏ 3. Position and test fit the die-cut 1/8" ply instrument
installed in step 9. Use a triangle to check that the center panel (IP) and cockpit rear (CPR) to the cockpit floor
line of the fin is perpendicular to the stab tube. Remove the sheeting, making sure the sheeting is properly positioned
fin and use 6-minute epoxy to glue the fin to the fin base and confirming that IP and CPR are both also 1/16" inside
41
the perimeter of the front and rear deck sheeting just as you
did with the floor sheeting. Sand the formers as needed.
When you are comfortable with the fit and positioning, glue
IP and CPR to the floor sheeting, being careful not to glue
any of the cockpit components to the fuselage.

❏ 4. Confirm that IP is properly positioned and hold the

cockpit in place as you drill 5/16" holes through the holes in
IP and through FD3. Remove the cockpit.

❏ 9. Trim off just the excess from the canopy ends so that
❏ 5. From the leftover 5/16" dowel, cut two 1/2" lengths. the canopy is open at its leading and trailing edges and set
Round one end of each of the two dowels. the canopy onto the fuselage. Center the canopy side-to-
side and position the canopy as far aft as possible. Using
two pieces of tape, lightly tape the canopy to the fuselage at
❏ 6. Insert the dowels into the holes in FD3 so 1/4" of each the leading and trailing edges.
rounded end is left extending into the cockpit area. Put
❏ 10. Use a marker to mark where the canopy needs to be
medium CA on one of the die-cut 1/8" ply dowel doublers
trimmed along the entire perimeter of the cockpit frame. Lift
(DD) and reach up inside the fuse and slide the doubler
the canopy off the fuselage and trim slightly outside the pen
onto one of the dowels, locking the dowel in place and the
marks. Fit and trim the canopy in small amounts until your
doubler tight against FD3. Install the second dowel doubler
canopy fits perfectly to the cockpit. Be careful to work slowly
the same way. NOTE: You need to use enough medium CA
and not over trim!
so that it glues the dowel in place as well as the doubler.
❏ 11. Lift the canopy and cockpit off the fuselage. Lay Plan
Protector inside the cockpit saddle to ensure you don’t glue
❏ 7. Finish your cockpit as desired. it to the fuselage and reposition the cockpit back on the
fuselage. Make sure your cockpit interior is complete; this is
your last chance to make changes easily!
❏ 12. Clean the entire canopy with window cleaner,
particularly the interior of the canopy. Be sure your hands
are very clean and not at all oily. The CA fumes will find the
oils from your fingers and any other dust, dirt or smudges
On the prototypes we chose to cover the cockpit floor with
and permanently scar your canopy, so be SURE it's clean
charcoal MonoKote®. For a scale appearance, you may
before you glue it!
want to make instrument panels in front of the pilot (in the
back seat) and the passenger position. We recommend ❏ 13. Confirm that you can confidently position the canopy
doing so from leftover sheeting. Cover them with the on the cockpit. Use MEDIUM CA to glue the canopy to the
same covering you used for the cockpit floor. We have cockpit. Hold it in place until fully cured.
provided a single, scale dash panel decal for in front of NOTE: We intentionally call for medium CA. DO NOT USE
your pilot. Scale documentation packages such as those ACCELERATOR. It will smoke the canopy. Thin CA will also
available from Scale Model Research in California often smoke the canopy. “Canopy glues” do not provide as tight
include good photos of the instrument panel which can be and permanent a bond as CA and you risk the chance of
xeroxed, shrunk down, and glued to these instrument the canopy coming off in flight. This could be catastrophic
panels. We selected DGA 1/3 scale pilots for their light on an aircraft of this size and type.
weight and realistic appearance. We glued a light balsa
bottom into the pilot to maintain his shape, and glued the
balsa bottom right onto the MonoKote covering of the
cockpit floor.

For painting the pilot we have discovered that acrylic

water base paints such as the types found at craft stores
work great. The acrylic paints look realistic on the pilot
because they are not glossy and, best of all, they clean up
with water.

❏ 8. Place the cockpit back on the fuselage, sliding the IP ❏ 14. Position the fuselage upside down in a stand. Confirm
over the dowels. that the cockpit is still properly positioned on the aircraft.
42
From leftover 1/4" x 1/4" basswood, cut two 2" long cockpit
bolt supports. Reach in through the fuselage and glue the FINISH THE MODEL
bolt supports to the aft end of the bottom of the cockpit floor,
flush against, but not glued to, the insides of the upper outer
shell stringers. Balance the Model Laterally
❏ 15. Centered vertically on the upper outer shell stringer Do not confuse this procedure with “checking the C.G.”,
and centered horizontally on the cockpit bolt support you which will be discussed later in the manual.
just installed, drill a 1/16" hole through the sheeting, the
A model which is not laterally balanced properly may exhibit
stringer and the bolt support. Repeat on the other side of
a variety of unpleasant tendencies, ranging from
the fuselage.
uncharacteristic tip stalls to problems with spin entries. This
aircraft, when balanced properly, has NO such bad
❏ 16. Turn the aircraft right-side-up and remove the cockpit.
tendencies. Be sure to check the lateral balance carefully as
Enlarge the hole to 1/8" through the balsa upper outer shell
described to help ensure that the model exhibits the same
stringers ONLY, being careful not to enlarge the holes in the
exceptional handling qualities of our prototypes.
bolt supports.
❏ 1. With the wing level and attached to the model and the
canopy off (and the engine and muffler installed), have one
person lift the model by the prop shaft and the other lift it by
the top of the rudder.
❏ 2. Lay a level across the fuselage where the cockpit sets
and add weight to the high tip until the model hangs
perfectly level.

Prepare the Model for Covering

❏ 1. Remove all the hinges, servos, and control horns from
❏ 17. Insert the provided 1/8" x 3/8" brass cockpit bolt
the ailerons, elevators, and rudder. Remove the engine and
guides in the 1/8" holes you just drilled so that the guide is
any other hardware you may have installed.
flush with the inboard edge of the upper outer shell
stringers. Sand the brass flush with the balsa sheeting. ❏ 2. Most of the model should be rough-sanded by now,
with all the tabs and rough edges sanded even. Fill all
❏ 18. Position the cockpit on the aircraft. Insert the provided dents, seams, low spots, and notches with Hobby Lite Balsa
2-56" x 1" screws through the brass guides, screwed through Colored Filler.
the bass supports and install blind nuts on the back side of the
❏ 3. After the filler has dried, use progressively finer grades
bass supports. Secure the blind nuts to the bass with thin CA.
of sandpaper to even all the edges and seams and smooth
all surfaces. Remove all balsa dust from the model with
NOTE: You may need to grind a little off one edge of the blind
compressed air or a vacuum with a brush and a tack cloth.
nut to get the blind nut to fit against the cockpit floor. This will
not affect the functionality of the blind nut at all.

❏ 19. Remove the cockpit and turn it upside down. Harden Cover with MonoKote Film
the balsa cockpit floor around the bass cockpit supports
with thin CA.
Cover the model with Top Flite MonoKote Film. Here are a
few recommendations to help you cover your giant Extra.
Before you cover the fuselage, first apply 1/4" wide strips of
Mount the Wheels & Wheel Pants MonoKote film in the corners of the fin and the fuse joint, then
proceed to cover the fin with pre-cut pieces that meet in the
❏ There are a variety of ways to mount wheel pants. On the corners and overlap the 1/4" strips. Never cut the covering
prototype we selected DuBro™ 3/16" long axles. We glued a on the fin after it has been applied except around the
1/8" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" square of leftover ply to the inside of leading and trailing edges and at the tips. Modelers who
each wheel pant. We then drilled a hole through the wheel cut covering on top of the wood structure may cut through the
pant and ply large enough to accept the head of the axle. covering and into the stab or fin. This will weaken the structure
We fit the wheel pant over the axle and aligned it. We drilled to a point where it may fail during flight. Since the tips of the
a 5/32" hole through the wheel pant, using the hole in the wings, ailerons, fin, rudder, elevators and stab are squared
landing gear as a guide and mounted the wheel pant with a off, it is easiest to cover the tips before you cover the tops
6-32x1/2" allen bolt and blind nut. and bottoms.
43
 ❏ 5. Install any fuel filling equipment you choose to use. We
Paint the Model recommend mounting it into the fuse side just behind the
cowl. Note that it may be necessary to support the sheeting
After the model is covered, you must fuel-proof all exposed with a piece of leftover ply.
wood. You may do so with fuel-proof model paint, 30-minute
❏ 6. Reinstall the engine to the mount and the muffler to the
epoxy thinned with alcohol, or finishing resin.
engine. Connect the fuel lines to the carb and exhaust.
Top Flite LustreKote® fuel-proof paint is recommended for Follow your engine manufacturer’s recommendations for
painting all the parts. (The wheel pants should be removed installing any ignition or other equipment required for your
from the landing gear prior to painting.) Apply one coat of particular engine.
LustreKote primer to fill all the small scratches left from
❏ 7. Reinstall the main gear, tail gear, wheels, wheel pants
sanding as well as small pin holes in any filler and in the
and tail wheel. HINT: Even after the servo tray gets glued in
fiberglass. Wet sand between coats with 400-grit sandpaper
place you can still access the main gear nuts by reaching in
and apply additional coats of primer if necessary. If the parts
through the wing opening.
are primed properly, a few light coats of color will quickly
provide you with a beautiful match to the MonoKote.

Final Servo & Receiver Installation

Install the Hardware
❏ 1. Reattach all control horns.
❏ 1. Reinstall the wing and stab anti-rotation dowels, being
❏ 2. Mount all servos in the aircraft and fuselage servo tray,
sure to center them in the fuse. Glue in place with medium
being sure to secure all servo lead/extension joints with
CA. Note: These dowels take a lot of the load of the plane.
heatshrink, tape or other protective covering to avoid an
Make sure these are securely glued in place.
accidental disconnect. Note that the servo lead/extension
❏ 2. Permanently attach the control surfaces. Start with the connection at the wing/fuse joints and stab/fuse joints do
elevators and stab. Cut the covering from the hinge slots. Install not get permanently secured in this manner. The servo tray
your hinges per the manufacturer’s instructions. If you are using will not get glued in until all radio gear has been installed for
Robart’s Giant Scale Pin Hinges as we did on the prototypes, easy handling and set up. HINT: With removable flying
we recommend coating the pivot point of the hinge with surfaces such as the Extra’s wings and stab, it is easiest to
petroleum jelly prior to epoxying the hinges in place. do pushrod set up with the surfaces off the aircraft and the
receiver and receiver battery outside the aircraft.
❏ 3. Attach the rudder and ailerons as you did the elevators.

❏ 3. Build your pushrods and hook up the servos to the

❏ 4. Assemble and install your tank, being sure to use the control surfaces, being sure to properly center the servos
appropriate type of tank, fuel fittings, etc for your fuel type. and check direction on all controls. On the prototype we
(Note that the recommended Great Planes 24 oz. tank and used Dubro® giant scale control horns, steel clevises and
its included hardware are compatible with both gas and 4-40 rod threaded on one end and soldered on the other for
glow fuels.) Glue a 2" long piece of leftover 1/4" x 1/4" balsa all except the throttle and kill switches.
at the leading and trailing edges of the tank. Secure the tank
IMPORTANT NOTE: NEVER use threaded clevises on both
to the tank/servo tray with Velcro™ straps to allow easy
ends of any pushrod, as vibration may unscrew the pushrod
removal and service. NOTE: This location is ideal as it
from both clevises!
mounts the tank over the CG and eliminates any CG
changes as fuel burns off. Most gasoline engines have NOTE: We strongly recommend using non-metal flexible
pumped carbs and will have no problem drawing fuel from pushrods (GPMQ3710) and nylon clevises (GPMQ3800) for
here. However, if your engine is not pumped or you are all pushrods going to any gasoline engine or servo operated
unsure of its ability to draw this far, you will want to mount kill switch as a precaution against “noise” traveling back to
your tank up against the firewall. You will need to build a tray the radio equipment and causing radio inconsistencies
for it and secure it in that location. or interference.
44
 NOTE: If the radio does not have dual rates, then set the
elevator and rudder control surfaces to low rate throws and
the ailerons at 1-1/4" deflection each way.

HINT: The Extra has been specifically designed for

One of the advantages of a gasoline engine is the ability exceptional performance at the recommended throws. For
to shut it off by terminating power to the ignition. This is an truly hands-off knife edge flight the model will require a mix of
added safety feature in the event of an in-flight or ground roughly 3-4% positive elevator to rudder. If set up as
emergency such as a throttle servo failure, stuck described, the model has no roll couple on rudder application.
carburetor, etc. We STRONGLY recommend you take
advantage of this safety feature by having not only an NOTE: The balance and control throws for the Extra
external kill switch on the exterior of the aircraft to shut off 330L have been extensively tested. We are confident
the ignition but also an onboard kill switch (such as that they represent the settings at which the Extra 330L
GPMG2150) so that your engine’s ignition can be shut off flies best. Please set up your model to the
by simply flipping a switch on your transmitter. specifications listed above. If, after you become
comfortable with your Extra 330L, you would like to
adjust the throws to suit your tastes, that’s fine. Too
❏ 4. Wrap the battery pack in at least 1/4" of foam rubber, much throw can force the plane into a stall, so
secure to the servo/tank tray (we prefer Velcro straps for this remember, “more is not better.”
task for easy removal).
❏ 5. Wrap and mount the receiver as you did the
receiver battery. Install the Cowl
❏ 6. Mount the receiver switch in a convenient location that
will not interfere with the servos and pushrods inside Install the cowl, then mount the spinner backplate, prop,
the fuselage. prop washer, and prop nut. Install the spinner.
❏ 7. Route your antenna. Be sure to use a strain relief to
protect the antenna from an accidental hard pull.
Balance Your Model
❏ 8. Glue the servo/tank tray in place with medium CA.
NOTE: This section is VERY important and must NOT be
omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be
Set the Control Throws unstable and possibly unflyable.

We recommend the following control surface throws ❏ 1. Accurately mark the balance point on the top of the
wing on both sides of the fuselage. Use thin strips of tape or
High Rate Low Rate a felt tip pen to make the marks.

ELEVATOR: 2" up 1/2" up The balance point (CG) is located 6-7/16" back from the
2" down 1/2" down leading edge where the wing meets the fuse as shown in
the sketch and on the wing plan. This CG can also be
RUDDER: 6-1/4" left 3-1/4" left checked at the wing tip. The CG is located at 4-7/64" back
6-1/4" right 3-1/4" right from the leading edge of the wing at the wingtip.

AILERONS: 1-7/8" up 3/4" up Hint: Reference the full size wing plan to help you locate the
1-7/8" down 3/4" down proper balance point. This is the balance point at which the
model should balance for your first flights. After initial trim
The throws are measured at the widest part of the flights and when you become more acquainted with your
elevators, rudder, and ailerons. Adjust the position of the Extra 330L, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
pushrods at the control/servo horns to control the balance up to 5/8" forward or 5/16" back to change the
amount of throw. You may also use the ATV’s if the flying characteristics. Moving the balance forward may
transmitter has them but the mechanical linkages should improve the smoothness and stability but the model may then
still be set so the ATV’s are near 100% for maximum require more speed for takeoff and make it more difficult to
servo power and the best servo resolution (smoothest, slow for landing. Moving the balance aft makes the model
most proportional movement). more agile with a lighter, snappier “feel” and often improves
Please read the Great Planes booklet: “A Look at knife-edge capabilities. In any case, please start at the
Aerobatics” for more information. location we recommend and do not at any time balance
your model outside the recommended range.
45
❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, hold ASSEMBLY & MAINTENANCE
the model upside-down with the stabilizer level. NOTE: If
you are using the CG Machine™ as described in the Expert
Tip below, we strongly recommend having the model
Assembly of the Giant Extra
upside-down. If you are checking the CG by hand, the CG
can be checked right-side-up, although upside down is
always preferable for better accuracy on a low wing model ❏ 1. Slide the wing tube, with its already installed first panel
such as this. and 6-32 x 3/4" bolt, through the fuselage, plugging in the
servo leads as you do so. Slide on the second wing panel and
❏ 3. Lift the model at the balance point. If the tail drops plug in the servo leads. Thread in the second panel bolt.
when you lift, the model is “tail heavy” and you must add
weight* to the nose to balance the model. If the nose drops, NOTE ON INSTALLING YOUR WING: When you fit the
it is “nose heavy” and you must add weight* to the tail to Extra’s wing to the tube, you will find it is a snug fit that
balance the model. NOTE: Nose weight may be easily requires some force. When putting your aircraft together
installed by using a “spinner weight” or gluing lead weights to fly, it is helpful to have someone put light pressure
to the firewall. Tail weight may be added by using Great against the first wing tip or to butt the tip against a car tire,
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead weights or by adding then push the wing onto the tube from the other side. To
the optional second rudder servo. remove the wing from the aircraft, stand with the fuselage
resting against the back of your legs and pull the wing
* If possible, first attempt to balance the model by changing away from the fuselage. Always handle the wing by the
the position of the receiver battery and receiver. If you are leading and trailing edges and be careful not to put your
unable to obtain good balance by doing so, then it will be hand through either the wings’ or fuselage’s sheeting.
necessary to add weight to the nose or tail to achieve the
proper balance point.
❏ 2. Attach the stab to the fuselage as you did the wing.

Maintenance of the Giant Extra

Proper maintenance of your Giant Extra is important to its
longevity. Be sure to check these and all components regularly.

❏ 1. The phenolic tube sockets will gradually wear and feel

loose when you’re assembling your model to fly. When they
Using a Great Planes CG Machine do, apply a small amount of thin CA to a paper towel and
to balance the Giant Extra wipe it inside the sockets in the fuse (be SURE there is no
accelerator on your hands or in the air!). Allow to cure
completely before completing assembly.
❏ 2. Tighten the landing gear bolts.
❏ 3. If you have the tube secured into one panel and always
unscrew the other, check the secured side’s bolt to be sure
it's not vibrating loose.

❏ 4. Confirm that the anti-rotation dowels are tight in the

fuse and do not wiggle, rotate or slide, including checking
the canopy dowels.

❏ 5. It is not necessary to remove the canopy to assemble

the aircraft; however, do so occasionally to check the
structure of the model for any damage.
To use the standard CG Machine on a model this large,
you’ll need to screw pieces of leftover 1/8" x 4" x 4"
❏ 6. Check that the cowl screws, engine mounting bolts and
plywood to the top of the balance pads. Attach foam to
exhaust bolts are tight.
the top of the plywood. Use two pieces of 3/16" x18"
piano wire to replace the base rods so the stand is wide
❏ 7. Regularly inspect all ignition wires of your gasoline
enough to fit the Extra’s fuse.
engine for chaffing.
46
 power indefinitely. The engine must be “broken-in” on the
PREFLIGHT ground by running it for at least two tanks of fuel. Follow the
engine manufacturer’s recommendations for break-in.
At this time check all connections including servo arm Make sure all screws remain tight, that the hinges are secure
screws, clevises and servo wires. Make sure you have and that the prop is on tight.
installed the silicone retainers on all the clevises.

Charge the Batteries Range Check Your Radio

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio instruction Whenever you go to the flying field, check the operational
manual.You should always charge the transmitter and receiver range of the radio before the first flight of the day. First,
batteries the night before you go flying, and at other times as make sure no one else is on your frequency (channel). With
recommended by the radio manufacturer. your transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and
transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet
away from the model and still have control. While you work
the controls, have a helper holding your model and tell you
Balance the Propeller what the control surfaces are doing.

Balance the propeller carefully before flying. An unbalanced Repeat this test with the engine running at various speeds
prop is the single most significant cause of vibration. Not with a helper holding the model. If the control surfaces are
only may engine mounting screws vibrate out, possibly with not always responding correctly, do not fly! Find and
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage the correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections
structure, radio receiver and battery. Vibration may cause or corrosion, loose bolts that may cause vibration, a
the fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run defective on/off switch, low battery voltage or a defective
lean or quit. cell, a damaged receiver antenna, or a receiver crystal that
may have been damaged from a previous crash.

Find a Safe Place to Fly

Since you have chosen the Extra 330L we assume that you
are an experienced modeler. Therefore, you should already Engine Safety Precautions
know about AMA chartered flying fields and other safe
places to fly. If for some reason you are a relatively NOTE: Failure to follow these safety precautions may
inexperienced modeler, and have not been informed, we result in severe injury to yourself and others.
strongly suggest that the best place to fly is an AMA
chartered club field. Ask the AMA or your local hobby shop Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
dealer if there is a club in your area and join. Club fields are sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
set up for R/C flying and that makes your outing safer and near the engine or fuel. Remember that the engine exhaust
more enjoyable. The AMA address and telephone number is gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Do not
in the front of this manual. run the engine in a closed room or garage.

If a club and flying site are not available, find a large, grassy Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
area at least 6 miles away from houses, buildings and operate engines.
streets and any other R/C radio operation like R/C boats
and R/C cars. A schoolyard may look inviting but is too close Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
to people, power lines and possible radio interference.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.

Ground Check the Model Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from
the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run
If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R/C the engine.
models, ask an experienced modeler to inspect your radio
installation and confirm that all the control surfaces respond Keep ALL items away from the prop, including: radio neck
correctly to transmitter inputs. The engine operation must also straps, loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or
be checked by confirming that the engine idles reliably and loose objects such as pencils and screwdrivers that may fall
transitions smoothly and rapidly to full power, and maintains full out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.
47
When using a “chicken stick” or electric starter, follow
instructions supplied with the starter or stick. Make certain FLYING
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
The Great Planes Extra 330L is a great flying semi-scale
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller. sport model that flies smoothly and predictably, yet is highly
aerobatic. The Extra does not, however, possess the self-
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or after recovery characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel only be flown by experienced RC pilots. This plane is fully
will not leak onto a hot engine causing a fire. capable of performing a wide range of aerobatics — from
simple rolls to impressive knife edge loops. The Extra 330L
To stop the engine, use your gas engine’s kill switch or cut is limited only by your abilities and imagination. Have Fun!!
off the fuel supply by closing off the fuel line or follow the
engine manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use
hands, fingers or any body part to try to stop the engine. Do
not throw anything into the prop of a running engine.

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts) CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a
Read and abide by the following Academy of Model low-pitched “buzz”, this may indicate control surface
Aeronautics Official Safety Code: “flutter”. Because flutter can quickly destroy components
General of the airplane, any time you detect flutter you must
1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been all servo grommets for deterioration and servos for
proven to be airworthy by having been previously damaged gears (this may indicate which surface
successfully flight tested. fluttered), and make sure all pushrod linkages are slop-
free. If it fluttered once, it will probably flutter again under
2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately similar circumstances unless you can eliminate the slop
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the or flexing in the linkages. Here are some things which can
airport operator. I will give right of way to, and avoid flying in result in flutter: Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting
the proximity of full scale aircraft. Where necessary an control horns solidly; Sloppy fit of clevis pin in horn;
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having Elasticity present in flexible plastic pushrods; Side-play of
models fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft. pushrod in guide tube caused by tight bends; Sloppy fit of
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the Z-bend in servo arm; Excessive flexing of aileron, caused
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my by using too soft balsa; Excessive “play” or “backlash” in
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner. servo gears; and Insecure servo mounting.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name Special Note about Flutter and Aerobatic Aircraft
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Highly specialized aerobatic models such as the Extra
9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device 330L have very large control surfaces designed
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind) specifically for performance at low air speeds. Aerobatic
models such as this ARE NOT INTENDED for high speed
passes and dives. Selection of a prop in the 10 pitch
Radio control range or lower is strongly recommended for its braking
1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground effect, which keeps your aerobatic aircraft from excessive
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model. speeds. (An added benefit is that it will provide you
increased vertical performance.) Even with excellent
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
control linkages, perfect glue joints, etc, an aerobatic
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by
model such as this may well flutter due to excessive
an experienced helper.
airspeed, caused by full throttle application when
accelerating in a dive, especially while using high speed
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit
props with a pitch over 10. This is NOT a flaw of the
or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
aircraft, but rather a by-product of the desirable high
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.
performance aerobatic capabilities of this model. We
recommend the use of 10 or lower pitch props and
4. I will operate my model using only radio control
appropriate throttle modulation, especially while diving, to
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
help you preserve your aerobatic aircraft.
Communications Commission.
48
 Takeoff Landing
Takeoff on “low” rates if you have dual rates on your When it’s time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and
transmitter–even if you are taking off in a crosswind. For all approach. Keep a few clicks of power on until you are over
models it is good practice to gain as much speed as the the runway threshold. For the first few landings, plan to land
length of the runway will permit before lifting off. This will slightly faster than stall speed and on the main wheels, as
give you a safety margin in case the engine quits. When you this is the easiest way to land your Extra. Later, with a little
initially advance the throttle and the tail begins to lift, the practice you will find you can make slow 3-point landings.
Extra will begin to turn to the left (due to the torque of the
engine–a characteristic of all taildraggers). Be prepared for Have a ball! But always remember to think about your
this by applying sufficient right rudder to keep the Extra next move and plan each maneuver before you do it.
running straight down the middle of the runway (or flying Impulsively “jamming the sticks” without any thought is
field). The left turning tendency will decrease as the plane what gets most fliers in trouble rather than lack of flying
picks up speed. Be sure to allow the tail to rise off the skill.
ground before lifting the model into the air. Depending on
the surface you are taking off from, you will need to apply
little or no up elevator until flying speed is reached. Don’t
hold the tail on the ground with too much up elevator, as the
Extra will become airborne prematurely and may stall. When
the plane has gained enough flying speed to safely lift off,
gradually and smoothly apply up elevator and allow the
model to climb at a shallow angle (do not yank the model off
the ground into a steep climb!)

Flight

We recommend that you take it easy with your Extra 330L

for the first several flights, gradually “getting acquainted”
with this great sport model as your engine gets fully broken-
in. If you feel as though you have your hands full, keep this
one thing in mind: pull back on the throttle stick to slow
the model down. This will make everything happen a little
slower and allow yourself time to think and react. Add and
practice one maneuver at a time, learning how the Extra
behaves in each. For smooth flying and normal maneuvers,
use the low rate settings as listed on page 45. This low rate
elevator setting is intentionally very soft and smooth, and
was selected specifically to provide clean snaps and loops
and a smooth, fluid flight performance overall. High rate
elevator was selected specifically for low-speed aerobatic
maneuvers such as torque rolls. High rate aileron and/or
rudder may be required for crisp snap rolls and spins. For
good knife-edge performance, including gorgeous knife
edge loops, high rate rudder and sufficient flight speed are
the keys.

Sometime well before it’s time to land you should climb your
Extra to a safe altitude and cut the throttle to an idle and
check out the model’s low speed characteristics. Do this a
few times so you know what to expect upon landing.
49
 ™

AVIOmac™ Giant-Scale Gasoline Engines

Easy starts...ultra-smooth performance...unequalled value!

• Superior power PLUS exceptional economy for 1/3 and 1/4 scale R/C aircraft.

• Includes clearly written instructions, exploded parts diagrams AND

3-year warranty protection.

MMLG0070 MMLG0085
70 Twin 85 Twin
Bore: 1.46 in Bore: 1.65 in
Stroke: 1.22 in Stroke: 1.22 in
Displacement: 4.06 cu in Displacement: 5.24 cu in
Weight: 6.28 lb Weight: 6.73 lb
Includes spark plugs; requires muffler & prop Includes spark plugs; requires muffler & prop
Starter control box requires 8 "AA" batteries Starter control box requires 8 "AA" batteries
Recommended props: 20x12; 22x10; 24x10 Recommended props: 24x10; 24x12; 26x8; 26x10
Performance with 22x12 prop (indicative): 5600 rpm Performance with 22x14 prop (indicative): 6300 rpm

Italy's Mac Minarelli, known for competition-winning racing kart engines, also uses its CNC machine equipped facilities
to produce AVIOmac *70 Twin* and *85 Twin* gasoline-powered R/C engines. If you're looking for muscular, easy-starting,
extraordinarily smooth power for your 1/3 or 1/4 scale aircraft, THIS is where to look -- and where you'll save hundreds of
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Because these are "boxer-style" twins with cylinders designed to fire simultaneously, they're incredibly smooth. Others
alternate from right to left, throwing the engines' force from side to side and causing tremendous vibration. Roller bearing
connecting rods and bearing-supported crankshafts reduce friction to the minimum. An impeccable fit between the
cylinders and dual ringed pistons produces maximum power. Cylinder heads offer generous cooling fin area. Heavy-duty,
single bolt prop mounts eliminate the need for adapters.
You'll enjoy the fastest, simplest starts imaginable: AvioMac engines include a magneto-style, capacitive discharge
ignition system with an easy-to-use control box (powered by 8 "AA" batteries, not included). Attach the box, push a single
button once, and it fires the supplied, standard-size plugs until the engine springs to life. Then just disconnect the box and
take off!
AVIOmac engines include clear instructions, complete with exploded parts diagrams. And a generous warranty protects
your investment for three long years!
 Futaba 9-Channel “Z-Series”
PCM Radios Futaba 8UAPS 8-Channel Radios

The choice of the world’s best pilots! Advanced features like audible trims
let you hear the superiority of
The ultimate in performance Futaba design!
and versatility.

FUTJ93** - FUTJ9550 FUTJ81**

SYSTEM FUTJ93** 9ZAW FUTJ9550 9ZAWS SYSTEM 8UAPS
RECEIVER R129DP R309DPS RECEIVER R148DP
SERVO (QTY) S9101 (4) S9101 (4) SERVO (QTY) S3001 (4)

At the sharpest point of technology’s cutting edge, you’ll find Adjust trims in-flight? Sure. Since Futaba knows your eyes
the Futaba 9Z Series...9-channel systems that represent can’t leave your plane, all trims beep as they pass neutral,
the absolute finest in radio control. Whether you fly so you can trim your plane by ear. But that’s only a small
airplanes, sailplanes or helicopters, you’ll enjoy part of what the 8UAPS PCM can offer. Add to that: 8 model
unprecedented flexibility. They can be customized to the memory (more with optional CAMPac modules); data copy;
“nth” degree. All offer the smooth, swift response of stepless a large LCD screen for programming ease; programmable
1024 PCM control, and features that include: a fuel mixture mixing for aerobatic airplanes, sailplanes and helis; dual
control to improve carburetor and throttle response; a dual- rates; side to-side adjustable exponential; all-channel servo
mode gyro that permits two sensitivity settings within one reversing and sub-trims on all models and all-channel
flight condition; plus improved tach and ATL limit functions. failsafe; digital trims and automatic trim memory; Direct
F3A/F3B/F3C software and programmable features allow Servo Control; programmable switch location and trainer
modifications for personal styles and aircraft, and settings function; full NiCds and charger; flight timer and 60-minute
storage in 10-model memory. The *9ZAW PCM* airplane stopwatch; and just about everything a contest pilot could
radio adds a programmable alarm and mutual mixing. A want. 72MHz. One-year warranty.
frequency synthesizer on the *9ZAWS* expands your edge,
by allowing you to compete on any unused 72MHz
frequency -- without changing crystals! 50 & 72 MHz. 1-
year warranty.
 2-View
Use the 2-view or photocopy it and use
the copy to design your trim scheme.
B C
D A