tweaks list

VEHICLE
M1, M1A1, M1A2
Abrams Main Battle Tank

MANUFACTURERS
Tamiya kit numbers 35124 and 35158
Shanghai Dragon kit numbers 3516
and 3531
Trumpeter kit number 00337

SCALE
1/35

AUTHORS
Pete Beccera, Major John Charvat,
Matthew Malagorski
and Stephen Tyliszczak

VERSION
1.0 March 14, 2002

Each MISSING LINKS Tweaks List is designed

to assist the modeller enhance and refine
the kit detail. We welcome comments that
would help make each Tweaks List a more
accurate reference tool.

Design and illustration by Dan Oldfield.

MISSING LINKS copyright 2002.

All rights reserved.
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 i

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Tamiya M1 Abrams Main Battle Tank (#35124) .....................................................................................1

Tamiya M1A1 Abrams Main Battle Tank with Mine Rake (#35158).....................................................3

Shanghai Dragon M1A1 Heavy Armor with Mine Plow (#3516) and
Shanghai Dragon USMC M1A1 Heavy Armor (#3531) ..........................................................................5

Kits Available in 1/35th Scale ................................................................................................................10

Trumpeter M1A2 Abrams Main Battle Tank (#00337).........................................................................11

Further Reading .....................................................................................................................................16

Selected Detail Sets................................................................................................................................16

Review for Eduard’s M1-A1 Abrams Detail Set (#35 057) for the Academy M1 Kit (#1345)
by Pete Beccera ......................................................................................................................................17

Review for Verlinden Productions’ M1 Abrams Update & Interior Set (#621)
by Matthew Malagorski ........................................................................................................................17

Review for Eduard’s M1-A1 Abrams Detail Set (#35333) for the Tamiya kit
by Stephen Tyliszczak ............................................................................................................................18

Review for Eduard’s M1-A1 Abrams Detail Set (#35259) for the
Shanghai Dragon M1A2Abrams kit
by Stephen Tyliszczak ............................................................................................................................18
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 1
by Matthew Malagorski

Tamiya M1 Abrams Main Battle Tank (#35124) • Kit engine exhaust grates cut from kit part, sanded,
drilled open, & remounted to the exhaust doors with
HULL plastic strip
• Front driving lights drilled out and replaced with M.V. • Hinge pin detail added to engine exhaust door hinges
Products lenses from Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set
• Windshield wipers added to Driver’s hatch periscope • Upper engine deck lift rings made from plastic strip
from plastic strip punched with a Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set
• Crowbar brackets on front side skirts made from K&S • Rear tail light guards made from aluminum tubing cut in a
square brass tubing cut in a miter box K&S tube cutter, Notches cut into guards with a razor saw
• Front fender spring rods made from copper wire • Rear tail lights replaced with red M.V. Products Lenses
• Front fender spring rod mounts made from lead foil cut in half
and two bolt heads from a Waldron Sub Miniature • Rear tail light electrical cables made from sprue
Punch & Die Set • Locking pin detail added to tow hook from Waldron
• Weather stripping added to tops of side skirts from Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set
plastic strip
• Bolt head detail added to side skirt weather strips from TURRET
Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set • Non Skid texture needs added
• All side skirt hinge pin detail added from a Waldron • Muzzle reference sensor mount made from plastic strip
Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set • Muzzle reference sensor made from sprue
• Triangle shaped side skirt mounts made from plastic • Muzzle reference sensor protective cover made from
strip lead foil
• Crew mounting cables on front side skirts replaced • Muzzle reference sensor glass made from 5 minute epoxy
with picture hanging wire
• Coax machine gun flash suppressor made from
• Rear Side skirt locking pins made from sprue aluminum tubing & sprue
• Rear Side skirt locking pin mounts made from lead foil • Searchlight mounting bracket holes drilled out with a
• Locking pin retaining chains made from Campbell pin vise
Scale Chain • Turret mantlet upper debris door made from plastic
• Weld seams added to all hull lifting rings from Green strip, hinges made from sprue
Stuff putty • Gunner’s primary sight made from plastic strip &
• Weld seams added behind drive sprockets where rear aluminum tubing, Sight Glass made from clear epoxy
hull plate and hull sides meet from Green Stuff putty • Gunner’s thermal sight made from plastic strip &
• External fire extinguisher opening cutout aluminum tubing, Sight Glass made from clear epoxy
• External fire extinguisher handle made from plastic strip • Laser range finder made from plastic strip & filled with
• Crew heater drain drilled out clear epoxy
• Lightening holes drilled into drive sprockets (4 each) • Thermal Sight Glass made from 35mm Purple negative
• All hull stowage bin handles removed, and replaced film
with plastic strip • Gunner’s sight box lifting brackets drilled out with pin vise
• Non Skid Texture needs added • Bolt detail added to top of Gunner’s sight box from
• Add vertical weld seems to the upper hull where the air Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set
intakes top angle meet the engine deck, area looks like • Smoke grenade discharger mounts scratch built from
this form the side almost plastic strips
• Bolt detail added to tops of smoke grenade dischargers
Engine Deck & discharger mounts from Waldron Sub Miniature
• Kit exhaust sawed off Punch & Die Set
• Engine exhaust outlets rebuilt from plastic sheet • All turret stowage bin handles removed, and replaced
(Templates made before removing kit part) with plastic strip
• Engine exhaust door louvers scratch built with plastic • All stowage bin rails replaced with brass wire bent to
strip cut in a Northwest Shortlines Chopper shape around a home made jig (.030 evergreen rod also
works well)
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 2
by Matthew Malagorski

• Eyebolts added to back of turret from Grandt Line O • 12.7mm Ammo belt-Tamiya
Scale Metal Eyebolts • MG Feed cover added from plastic strip
• Rear turret webbing needs made • MG Barrel lock added from plastic strip
• Wind sensor needs new top • MG Barrel drilled out with a pin vise
• Tow cables replaced with picture hanging wire • MG Charging cable made from sprue
annealed with a candle
• MG manual triggers made from plastic strip
• Tow cable brackets made from lead foil
• MG electrical trigger detailed with small copper wire
• Tow cable debris deflectors made from plastic strips & plastic strip
filed and sanded to shape
• .50 ammo box bins made from plastic strip (what are
Loader’s Hatch
you referring to here, the ammo box holder on the left
• Hatch lifting handle made from copper wire
side?*
• Periscope replaced with tinted Plexiglas (Optional)
• Antennae mounts detailed with bolt heads from a
Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set • MG cradle made from plastic strip, locking pins added
from a Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set &
• Antennae springs made from copper wire wound
Campbell Scale Chains
around a straight pin
• Ammo box cradle made from plastic strip
• Antennas made from sprue
• 7.62mm Ammo belt-Tamiya
• Barrel drilled out with pin vise
Commander’s Cupola
• All periscopes made from 1/8” tinted Plexiglas • Charging cable made from sprue
• Commander’s .50 primary sight drilled out & filled • Triggers made from plastic strip
with clear gloss • Elevation locking handle made from sprue
• Eyebolts made from copper wire wrapped around steel • Traverse locking handle made from plastic strip
wire
• Bolt detail added to base of machine gun cradle TRACKS
support arm from a Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & • Replace with Armor Track T-156 individual link tracks
Die Set (AFV club does not make T-156 tracks, only armor track)
• Hinge detail added to hatch from a Waldron Sub
Miniature Punch & Die Set
• MG cradle made from plastic strip, locking pins made REFERENCES
from Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set & M1A1 Operator’s Manual US Army
Campbell Scale Chains The M1 & M1A1 Museum Ordnance Special, Darlington
Productions
• Bolt detail added to machine gun mount elevation Warmachines #5-M1,IPM1, M1A1 Verlinden Productions
motor from Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set M1 Abrams In Action Squadron/Signal
• Ammo box cradle made from plastic strip M1 Abrams Motorbuch International
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 3
by Matthew Malagorski

Tamiya M1A1 Abrams Main Battle Tank with • Engine exhaust door louvers scratch built with plastic
Mine Rake (#35158) strip cut in a Northwest Shortlines Chopper
• Kit engine exhaust grates cut from kit part, sanded,
HULL drilled open, & remounted to the exhaust doors with
• Front driving lights drilled out and replaced with M.V. plastic strip
Products lenses • Hinge pin detail added to engine exhaust door hinges
• Windshield wipers added to Driver’s hatch periscope from Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set
from plastic strip • Upper engine deck lift rings made from plastic strip
• Crowbar brackets on front side skirts made from K&S punched with a Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set
square brass tubing cut in a miter box • Rear tail light guards made from aluminum tubing cut in a
• Front fender spring rods made from copper wire K&S tube cutter, Notches cut into guards with a razor saw
• Front fender spring rod mounts made from lead foil • Rear tail lights replaced with red M.V. Products Lenses
and two bolt heads from a Waldron Sub Miniature cut in half (Tamiya clear red acrylic paint works just as
Punch & Die Set good and is a lot easier to do)
• Weather stripping added to tops of side skirts from • Rear tail light electrical cables made from sprue
plastic strip • Locking pin detail added to tow hook from Waldron
• Bolt head detail added to side skirt weather strips from Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set
Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set
• All side skirt hinge pin detail added from a Waldron TURRET
Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set • Non Skid texture needs added
• Triangle shaped side skirt mounts made from plastic strip • Muzzle reference sensor mount made from plastic strip
• Crew mounting cables on front side skirts replaced • Muzzle reference sensor made from sprue
with picture hanging wire
• Muzzle reference sensor protective cover made from
• Rear Side skirt locking pins made from sprue lead foil
• Rear Side skirt locking pin mounts made from lead foil • Muzzle reference sensor glass made from 5 minute epoxy
• Locking pin retaining chains made from Campbell • Coax machine gun flash suppressor made from
Scale Chain aluminum tubing & sprue
• Weld seams added to all hull lifting rings from Green • Searchlight mounting bracket holes drilled out with a
Stuff putty pin vise
• Weld seams added behind drive sprockets where rear • Turret mantlet upper debris door made from plastic
hull plate and hull sides meet from Green Stuff putty strip, hinges made from sprue
• External fire extinguisher opening cutout (Behind • Gunner’s primary sight made from plastic strip &
NBC Unit) aluminum tubing, Sight Glass made from clear epoxy
• External fire extinguisher handle made from plastic • Gunner’s thermal sight made from plastic strip &
strip (Behind NBC Unit) aluminum tubing, Sight Glass made from clear epoxy
• Crew heater drain drilled out (In front of NBC Unit) • Laser range finder made from plastic strip & filled with
• Lightening holes drilled into drive sprockets (4 each) clear epoxy
• Right hull stowage bin handles removed, and replaced • Thermal Sight Glass made from 35mm Purple negative
with plastic strip film
• Non Skid Texture needs added • Metal lip added to front of the Gunner’s sight box from
plastic strip
Mine Rake • Gunner’s sight box lifting brackets drilled out with pin vise
• Retaining clips need added to all mounting bolts from • Bolt detail added to top of Gunner’s sight box from
wire or sprue Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set
• Smoke grenade discharger mounts scratch built from
Engine Deck plastic strips
• Kit exhaust sawed off • Bolt detail added to tops of smoke grenade dischargers
• Engine exhaust outlets rebuilt from plastic sheet & discharger mounts from Waldron Sub Miniature
(Templates made before removing kit part) Punch & Die Set
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 4
by Matthew Malagorski

• All turret stowage bin handles removed, and replaced • Ammo box cradle made from plastic strip
with plastic strip • 12.7mm Ammo belt-Tamiya
• All stowage bin rails replaced with brass wire or .030 • MG Feed cover added from plastic strip
plastic rod bent to shape around a home made jig
• MG Barrel lock added from plastic strip
• On The Mark steel mesh added to rear stowage basket
• MG Barrel drilled out with a pin vise
• 20mm ammo can holders on back of stowage basket
• MG Charging cable made from sprue
made from sheet plastic (Field modification)
• MG manual triggers made from plastic strip
• Tie down cleats added to back of turret from Waldron
Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set and sprue • MG electrical trigger detailed with small copper wire
& plastic strip
• Wind sensor made from aluminum tubing, plastic strip
& sprue, hole cut out with Dremel Motor tool
• Grandt Line eyebolts added to bottom of stowage basket Loader’s Hatch
• Hatch lifting handle made from copper wire
• Tow cables replaced with picture hanging wire
annealed with a candle • Periscope replaced with tinted Plexiglas
• Tow cable brackets made from lead foil • MG cradle made from plastic strip, locking pins added
from a Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set &
• Tow cable debris deflectors made from plastic strips
Campbell Scale Chains
filed and sanded to shape
• Ammo box cradle made from plastic strip
• .50 ammo box shelves made from plastic strip
• 7.62mm Ammo belt-Tamiya
• Antennae mounts detailed with bolt heads from a
Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set • Barrel drilled out with pin vise
• Antennae springs made from copper wire wound • Charging cable made from sprue
around a straight pin • Triggers made from plastic strip
• Antennas made from sprue, tied down with stiffened • Elevation locking handle made from sprue
string, lead foil used for end clamps • Traverse locking handle made from plastic strip

Commander’s Cupola TRACKS

• All periscopes made from 1/8” tinted Plexiglas • Replace with Armour Track Models T-156 individual
• Commander’s.50 primary sight drilled out & filled with link tracks or AFV Club T-158 “Big Foot” or Armor
clear gloss Track T-158 single link workable tracks
• Eyebolts made from copper wire wrapped around steel
wire
• Bolt detail added to base of machine gun cradle support
arm from a Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set
• Hinge detail added to hatch from a Waldron Sub
Miniature Punch & Die Set REFERENCES
M1A1 Operator’s Manual US Army
• MG cradle made from plastic strip, locking pins made
The M1 & M1A1 Museum Ordnance Special, Darlington
from Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set & Productions
Campbell Scale Chains Warmachines #5-M1,IPM1, M1A1 Verlinden Productions
• Bolt detail added to machine gun mount elevation M1 Abrams In Action Squadron/Signal
motor from Waldron Sub Miniature Punch & Die Set M1 Abrams Motorbuch International
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 5
by Major John Charvat

Shanghai Dragon M1A1 Heavy Armor with • On most tanks, the #7 skirt is removed. Cut the skirt
Mine Plow (#3516) and Shanghai Dragon off, leaving the piano hinge intact. Drill five holes in a
USMC M1A1 Heavy Armor (#3531) .010 X .030 strip of plastic. Then glue the strip to the
hinge. Add two 2mm long pieces of .020 diameter rod
HULL to the rear mud flaps.
Suspension • Detail Note: If the #7 skirt is deleted, add styrene part
• Support Rollers Mounts: At the locating holes for the under the sponson, above the sprocket, as DML
support/return rollers add a plate of .010 styrene 7 mm produced the model with open sponson bottoms.
x 7mm with bolts heads in each corner and drill new • If desired, add skirt supports between the hull and skirts.
hole to mount the rollers. There are two per side, located between the number 2
• Drill out three lightning holes in the four support and 3 road wheel stations and number 4 and 5 road
rollers Parts C11 & 12. Insert kit support roller into wheel stations. Add a small triangle about 3-4 mm
new mounting plates wide and 2-3 mm deep with a 3mm diameter and insert
• Sprockets: drill four lightning/mud relief holes in the a 24-25mm (or however long to make contact with the
outer hub approximately at the 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock side skirt insides) length or brass or styrene rod.
positions. The holes are slightly oval shaped. Consult
references for exact shape. The Legends M1 Missing Hull Details
Accessory kit has a resin outer hub for the DML/SD • Add the hull fire extinguisher handle by cutting a
M1A1 sprocket that has the correct mud relief holes rounded square hole approximately 4mm long by 2mm
incorporated and is meant to be added to Parts C-5. in the side of the hull. The location for the hole is1
mm above the lower edge of the hull and 60mm
Track forward of the end of the upper hull. Add a 2mm long
• Clean and fill the ejection marks in the kit strip and T-shaped handle made from plastic strip or sprue.
link track. If the model uses all the skirts, a shortcut is • Drill a hole in the hull for the heater exhaust pipe in
to delete the upper run of track. the round opening in Part A6. Insert an appropriately
• An option is to replace the kit track with AFV Club T- drilled out piece of .047 rod for the pipe itself.
158 Bigfoot working individual link track. Tedious, • Replace part A8 with a slightly bent piece of .047 rod.
fiddly work but worth the effort after the raised Bevel the edges so it forms a vertical wedge. Point the
ejection marks are removed. wedge to the outside of the tank, in the locating hole
and glue.
Skirts • Add missing details to fuel filler caps (four.) Each cap
• Add plastic strip to the bottom and sides of parts A23 & should have a retaining pin block between the tabs
29 (#1 Left and Right Skirt) and Part A19 (#2 Right opposite of the hinges. Drill a hole through both tabs
Skirt) These skirts have additional armor and are thicker and the retaining block for an angled retaining pin
than the rest of the skirt panels. Replace the plastic the (stretched sprue, plastic rod or copper wire), with a
mounting stirrups on the bottom of the # 1 skirts with retaining chain (PE.)
fine twisted wire. Replace the square “blobs” on the top • The hull back deck (Part A30) requires careful dry
of Parts 23 & 29 with square brass tubing. fitting, possible sanding and /or shimming to achieve a
• Thin the edges of the rest of the skirt panels. In tight fit. The hinges for the screened access panels on
actuality, the skirts are about ? inch thick. the back deck will have to be either cut off with a sharp
• Open skirt hinge points with a drill & sharp knife. blade and relocated or add strips to bridge the gap
Deepen the skirt joints with the back of a #11 blade. between the doors and the ends of the hinges.
• Add upper skirt supports with plastic strip or epoxy • Replace part A11 with copper wire or .020 rod bent to
putty. The supports are angled from the skirt to the form a grab handle
raised tabs on the upper hull plate. Consult references • When the lower hull and upper hull are joined add a
for correct shapes. Add retaining pin details with slices weld seem across the glacis plate, right where the seam
of .035 and .047 rod. Add PE retaining chains. from joining the hulls is about the correct place
• Add the rubber weatherstrips and their metal hold
down strips from styrene strips and scratched bolt Rear Hull Plate
details or use the Eduard PE Skirt fittings to the tops of • Discard kit taillight guards (Parts C10) and replace with
the skirts new ones fabricated from ? inch aluminum (K&S) or
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 6
by Major John Charvat

plastic tubing (Evergreen, bore the tubing out to achieve a FIGURE 1

scale appearance), cutting a 3mm deep X 3mm long
square out of the tube, on the inside right for the left side
of the tank and the inside left for the right side of the tank. fender spring hold downs
• Add the Auxiliary Power Unit mounting points on the fender springs
left rear hull made from .060 strip or scavenged from
Part C-25. fill
• Replace the tow pintle with suitably detailed one from fender spring
another modern US vehicle kit (Tamiya) rests
• Drill out the two lifting eyes on the upper part of the
hull rear plate as well as the two tow points on the
lower part of the rear plate. locations for scribed X location for end
connector storage
• Thin or replace the rear mud flaps on both sides. Add fender spring (side view)
a plastic square of .005 or .010 for the delineator plate, slight vertical rise to the spring
Decal #4. This marking is to identify that tank is an
oversized vehicle to civilian traffic. It is a reflective with a slice of .035 rod to represent the hinge pin. The
sticker mounted on a removable plastic plate and found outside hinge is a 2mm X 1mm of .010 strip also with
on tanks in Germany and Korea the slice of .035 rod.
• Detail Point: The whole rear plate can be scratchbuilt • Fill the depression that runs across the width at the top
relatively easily for added detail. Use the DML/SD of the fender.
original plate for measurements. When reproducing the • Make “L” shaped fender spring rests and mount on the
grill doors, the two outside sections (oil and inside of the fender, 12mm forward from the rear of the
transmission exhaust grills) have seven louvers. These fender
are made by stacking sections of plastic, with spacers of • Fabricate fender retaining springs from thin wire or
strip styrene to maintain a uniform distance between .020 rod. The shape is shown below:
each plate of the louver. The center engine exhaust grill • Locate the spring in the slight break in the non-skid
has three louver panels that can also be fabricated by surface.
using strips to achieve the uniform spacing. Cover the
• Secure to the hull with “j” hooks made from the same
grills with grates scavenged from the original kit part
material, with the hook in the “J” being of the same
and sanded to reduce the thickness. If desired, omit one
diameter as the fender spring rod. Drill the holes for the
or two of the grates to shoe off your work as tanks
spring retainers 4mm from the outside edge of the hull and
occasionally lose the gratings while maneuvering.
2mm from the inside edge. Use CA to secure the hooks.
• Ensure that the inside arms of the spring rods are
Drivers Hatch laying on the fender spring rests (figure 1).
• Add a raised ring of .010 x.060 starting about 1mm in
• Detail Point: tank crews will store their extra track end
front of the raised portion of the hatch on one side to
connectors by inserting them on the inside arms of the
the opposite side of the hatch . Sand and file the strips
spring rods. This keeps them handy as well as
to match the contours of the hatch edges, leaving a
provides a device to keep the fender (when rotated 180
1mm overlap on the edge of the hatch.
degrees, under the raised fender) when conducting
• Cut a notch in the styrene with a razor saw to match up track maintenance.
with the notch in the front slope in front of the hatch
• If desired, an “X” shaped depression can be scored into
• Add square reinforcing plate behind center vision the fender to replicate the reinforcing detail seen on
block mount. Add the hatch lock on the back of the some M1 series fenders
drivers hatch, using .030 square strip. Add a small
hook on the lock using copper wire (consult reference
photos) Headlights
• Remove the two angled cylinders vicinity of the
• Add vision blocks made from strip styrene. Using
headlight mounts and replace with a 2mm long piece
stretched sprue, add wiper blades to the center vision block.
of.080 rod. Glue to the rod to the hull and add triangular
reinforcements at the 12, 3 and 9 o’clock positions. Drill
Front Fenders out headlights and replace them with MV lenses (LS 29).
• Add hinges to the inside and outside of the fenders. Add strip to the rear of the headlight assemblies to allow
The inside arm consists of a 5mm X 1mm of .010 strip it to make contact with the cylinder.
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 7
by Major John Charvat

Headlight Brush guards FIGURE 2

• Delete parts C6 on both sides. Replace the vertical bulged
part with a .030 X .050 strip, angled forward. Use a junction 4mm 5mm cover
piece of .030 X .050 strip to run form the vertical post box
to the step on the forward part of Part C9. Add bolt APU conduit
detail on the top of the guard on the vertical post and
21mm
add a half circle with a bolt under the guard on the conduit from APU connection
inside of Part C9.
• Replace lower tow points (with the oversized holes to • Make the connector from styrene strip, consulting
mount the Mine Plow) with ones fabricated from .060 references, or “liberate” the connector box it from
strip or scavenged from the unused hull Auxiliary Trumpeter M1 series kit.
Power Unit Part A25
Sponson Boxes
TURRET • Ensure the boxes mount square and flush on the turret.
Smoke Grenade Launchers Add .50 caliber ammunition can mount and strap as
• Replace the kit’s M-250 Smoke grenade launchers with well as the turret box mounting point, both are found in
the set found in a Tamiya modern US Armor Kit (M1, the Eduard PE set.
M1A1, M60A3 or M60A1.) The kit units can be used • Add a wire loop for the upper attachment point for the
with filling and sanding to blend the launcher tubes ammunition can strap
into the base.
• The sponson box lid handles can be replaced with the
• Attach the launchers to the mounts found in the Eduard parts found in the Eduard PE set, the only drawback is
M1A1 PE set. Ensure that the assembly is pointing that they are flat. The kit handles can be carefully cut
away from the tank at an angle. off and repositioned as the real ones have a habit of
• Add the electrical connection using thin copper wire, coming unlatched if they are not locked with a
attaching one end to the rear of the launcher and the padlock.
other to the Smoke Grenade Launcher conduits • Add padlocks if desired
extensions.
Turret Rails
Smoke Grenade Launcher conduits • Make all 6 turret rails from brass or styrene rod (.030-
• Make a triangular extension to the conduits, extending
.035 diameter). Make a rounded 90 degree angle in
over the side of the turret by 2mm.
them and insert them into pre-drilled holes in the turret
• Add bolt down detail with .020 rod, .010x.020 strip and in the cutout notches in the turret boxes. Some dry
and Grandt Line bolt details. fitting might be needed here as well as filling of some
notches and making new notches with a file.
APU Connector & Conduits • Cap the ends with Part F38/F39 or a similar scratch
• If modeling a vehicle with a bustle mounted Auxiliary built end support made from .020 styrene.
Power Unit, then add additional conduits, consisting of
angle iron on the real vehicle to the turret.
Tow Cable Attachments.
• First, remove the molded angle from the bulged cover, • Remove the ill shaped bulges on the front of the turret.
behind the TC’s & Loader’s hatches to the corner where Replace with an angled /triangular shaped slice of
the conduit angles towards the front of the turret. styrene tubing.
• Add a 2mm x 4mm junction box at the end that angles • Use .040 styrene rod to make “T” shaped forward
forward. attachment point.
• Make a new flat conduit that is 2mm wide and 21mm • Make five cup shaped mounting clips per side from
long, with a bend to allow it to attach the bulged cover aluminum or plastic, 1mm wide, mounting the first one
behind the TC’s hatch. 15mm from the front attachment, below the turret box,
• Make an angled cutout 5mm long, 4mm from the and then 10mm apart there after. Another option is to
junction box end of the conduit (figure 2). use the clips that come with the Eduard PE set
• Add a 25mm angled conduit, parallel to the left side • The rear cable retainer is a “C” shaped sleeve, 3mm
blow out panel, attaching to the junction box and to the long, to allow the tow cable end to slide into it to
APU connector on the rear of the turret. secure the cable on the turret.
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 8
by Major John Charvat

Smoke Grenade Boxes FIGURE 3 LOADER’S HATCH

• Add mounting points behind the mounting tabs that shipping hasp shipping latch
raise the box .5 to 1mm above the side of turret. location
• Add the missing hinge detail to the top of the box with
strip, 2mm from the ends of the box. security
hasp

Loader’s Hatch hatch latch

• Add a 1.5mm circular strip of .010 styrene to the edge end
post
reinforcing
of the Loader’s hatch to make the reinforced lip, found lip here
on M1A1s &M1A2s in the late 1990’s. Leave a slight begin reinforcing
overlap of the strip on the outside of the hatch. lip here
• Add the handle, made from copper wire, to the hatch at
the 2 o’clock position. treatment regardless as it has a clear portion to allow the
• Make the hatch latch post from a 1mm x 1mm piece of TC to see forward and use the manual .50 caliber sight
styrene with a wire or styrene rod post. Mount it at the when his hatch is in the open protected position.
8:30 position on the new rim on the hatch. • .50 Caliber MG: DML/SD did a good job on the .50
• Add the two hasps to the hatch. The first is the but it could use some details. Add a “J” shaped
security hasp made from styrene strip located next to charging handle to the strip on the L/H side of the MG.
the hatch handle. The second is a shipping latch, If desired, drill a 7mm long slot, 2mm wide along the
consisting of an angled metal tab on the front of the bottom of the MG Mount.
hatch at the 12:00 position and a swiveling rod/latch, • Add pin detail and retaining chains (PE) to the CWS
similar to an eye bolt (pivot) with a wing nut on the MG Mount
end to secure the hatch (figure 3). Consult references. • Replace the ammunition can mount and ammunition
tray with Eduard PE. Replace the.50 Caliber
Loader’s M240 & Mount. ammunition can with a resin or detailed plastic version
• Add a locking lever to the base of the MG Mount, Part
F2. Add a second handle, consisting of a rod with a Gunner’s Primary Sight & Armored Cover
circular grip added to the MG (Part F58) at the post on • Add a 1mm long section of .025 rod to the rear of the
the bottom of MG base (consult references). armored sight cover, 7mm from each side. Add another
• Add a charging cable made from thin wire to the right 1mm rod on each side of the armored sight cover, 5mm
side of the MG. from the rear to replicate the lifting eye mounts.
• Add a latch on the back of the spent brass catcher • The sight itself is normally painted NATO green, even
below the MG. Drill out the flash suppressor on the if the tank is sand colored.
end of the barrel. • Detail Note: The top rear of the armored sight cover is
normally chipped and slightly rusted from spent brass
Commander’s Weapon Station from the .50 caliber machine gun.
• Hatch: Assemble per instructions. Add a strap handle
to top of the inner hatch plate. Use .035 rod or a Main Gun
similar sized disk for the attachment points and a strip • Assemble gun per instructions, make sure the seam line
of foil for the nylon strap. Add securing bolt detail. is filled or replace with an aftermarket aluminum barrel.
• Drain Holes: Drill through the drain holes found at the • Detail can be added by adding bolt heads and drill out
3 & 9 o’clock positions on the CWS the bottom of the front clamps and deepening the slots
• Lifting Eyes: Drill out the raised areas at the 4 & 8 on the bore evacuator retaining ring.
o’clock positions and insert Grandt Line eyebolts. The • The bore evacuator, which is made from Kevlar, can
eyebolts can be omitted if desired. have a smooth or rough finish to it.
• Vision Blocks: Improvements can be added by carving • Wrap a strip of .010 x 7mm strip around the rear of the
out the molded vision block and replacing them with barrel to make a tighter fit in the mantlet thus
Plexiglas or clear styrene about .060-.080 in thickness. improving the appearance.
An easier fix is to replicate the glass using exposed
• Cut off the tab on the top of the muzzle and add a strip
35mm film or paint, especially if the TC’s hatch is
of aluminum foil inside of the muzzle to replicate the
closed. The front vision block needs to get the Plexiglas
chrome barrel lining.
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 9
by Major John Charvat

• The kit Muzzle Reference Sensor (MRS), Part F-40, is • Measure the distance between the turret rails discussed
acceptable with minimal work. File the rear to a 45 above. Take Part F53, cut it along the horizontal base
degree angle and drill out the tube (if desired.) Make and add a styrene strip to allow the holes in the vertical
sure the tube is aligned with the Gunners Sight. supports for the basket rail to meet the measurements
made above. The extended back brace for the basket
can be used as modified or for a template to make a
Gun Mantlet
new one from sheet styrene.
• Assemble per instructions.
• Make four basket rails from brass or plastic rod (.030-
• Replace the molded bolt detail on the sides with new
.035), each having a rounded 90 degree corner (make a
ones from Grandt Line, punched from styrene with a
jig to ensure four uniform rails with the proper rounded
hex punch & die set, or salami sliced from hex rod.
corners.)
• Add the mantlet side guards from either .005 styrene or
• Add the two reinforcing rods and the jerry can holders
aluminum from a soda can. Add three bolts on the top
to the bottom rail. Add expanded or PE diamond mesh
per side from the techniques described above.
on the base rail.
• Drill holes in the two tabs above the gun receptacle as
• Use the kit’s vertical supports, after filling and sanding
well as in Part B-11. These tabs allow the mounting of
to remove the ejection marks. Fit them to the new or
gunnery training devices above the main gun.
modified base, adjusting spacing once all five of the
• Make the channel for the gunner’s auxiliary sight from supports are fitted and the mounting points are the
half a section of styrene tube, sliced lengthwise. Use correct distance to mount the basket on the turret (Lots
drills and a round needle file to ensure the channel of dry fitting here…)
maintains the rounded interior shape.
• Insert the rails, starting with the bottom then the top
• Drill out the co-axial machine gun blast tube, Part B-4 and rail. Use slow curing CA or plastic cement to allow
mount. Add Part B-5 after the mantlet is glued to the turret. time to square up the supports and rails. Add the
middle two rails and glue.
Turret Rear/Wind Sensor • Add a strip of .010 styrene or aluminum between the
• The kit wind sensor accurately represents one of the several bottom and second rail to complete the bustle rack.
styles of wind sensors found on the M1 series tanks.
• Replace the stowed wind sensor mount with the one Auxiliary Power Unit
found ion the Eduard PE set. • Replace all of the bolt detail on the outside of the APU
• Replace the four fittings on the rear of the turret with with Grandt Line bolts.
the ones found in the Eduard set. • Fabricate new top and flush access doors for the APU
from .010 styrene. Add piano hinges made from .010
Radio Antennas & Mounts strip and .020 rod. The two smaller doors are raised
• Add coils springs made from thin wire to the kit above the surface and also made from .010 styrene
antenna bases, Part C16. • Make new “D” shaped handles from styrene rod and
• Antennas come in two varieties. Both have a tear-drop stretched sprue for the access doors on the top of the APU.
shaped antenna safety ball on the end. Antenna tie • Add cabling to attach to APU connector box on the turret
downs consist of as metal clip and a rope, normally • Place unit in the bustle rack
tied to the turret rails on the front of the turret
• See the pictures on the Full Metal Jacket website
- the fiberglass antenna is about 7 foot long and can be (http://www.kithobbyist.com/AFVInteriors/fullmetal/fu
easily replicated with .030 styrene rod, sanded to a taper. llmet.html) for more details
- the metal version is about four feet long and quite
flexible.
DETAILS
- both antennas types are normally tied down forward ID Panels
during maneuvers. • Tactical Signs. Signs used to identify/differentiate
friendly tanks. They are normally geometrically
Bustle Rack shaped: square, rectangular or octagons. The markings
• Perhaps the worst part on the tank, this can be contain numbers that identify the battalion and
completely rebuilt or just replace the rails with brass or company (sometimes the vehicle bumper number) of
plastic rod to a marked improvement For the gluttons the vehicle. Colors depend on units, consult
for punishment, refer to the following… references.
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 10
by Major John Charvat

• Thermal ID Panels. Two of these corrugated panels available kits in 1/35 scale
come with the SD USMC M1A1 HA kit, however,
three are usually found on a tank to prevent fratricide ACADEMY
through the use of thermal tape on the angled surfaces. #1345 M1A1
These are easily fabricated using Evergreen .100
Clapboard Siding cut into panels 21mm wide x 15mm SHANGHAI DRAGON
high (6 “strips” high). Frame the sides and bottom #3516 M1A1-HA with mine plow
with .010 strip. Paint NATO green with khaki strips on #3524 M1A2
the angled surfaces to replicate the thermal tape. #3531 USMC M1A1-HA
• 20mm Storage Cans
ESCI
• Two or four 20mm Ammunition Cans are normally
fixed to the bustle rack for additional storage, with one #5021 M1A1 Abrams Staballoy Armor,
actually an M1E1
outside of the first vertical support and the second
between the first and second vertical support, repeat on TAMIYA
the other side. #35124 M1 Abrams
#4054 M1 Abrams (wired remote, 3 engines,
Spare Road Wheels one turns turret, same basic kit as original M1)
• Storage locations vary by units. The most common is #35156 M1A1 Abrams 120mm
to mount the wheel either on the top of the turret on #35158 M1A1 Abrams w/Mine Plow
the CITV mount or forward of the CITV, using the
bolts found there. TRUMPETER
• Another option is to mount it on the turret or bustle #00336 M1A1HA w/Mine Roller Set
rack rails using a M-88 track center guide. #00334 M1A1HA Abrams
#00337 M1A2 Abrams
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 11
by Stephen Tyliszczak

Trumpeter M1A2 Abrams Main Battle Tank to the taillight through the cut out in the taillight guard
(#00337) • Add a .010 strip of styrene the length of the engine
grilles ( about 59mm) that has a angle starting at 3mm
HULL at the ends on each side moving to 26mm inwards and
Lower Hull then being straight at about 4-5mm for 8mm before
• At the locating holes for the return rollers (parts C40 angling back to 3mm at the opposite end
and C45) add a plate of .010 styrene 7 mm X 7mm • Glue the above piece into place at a slight downward
with bolts heads in each corner and add 4mm diameter angle
styrene or brass tube and insert kit return roller • Under the center engine grille add a piece that runs the
• Drill out the holes in the return rollers length of the center grille inwards to the edge of the
• In between the number 2 and 3 road wheel stations add piece you just added and add spacers on the ends to
a small triangle about 3-4 mm wide and 2-3 mm deep make it the proper height to meet up with the other piece
with a 3mm diameter and insert a 24-25mm (or • Replace the tow pintle with suitably detailed one from
however long to make contact with the side skirt another modern US vehicle kit (Tamiya)
insides) length or brass or styrene rod do the same • Drill two holes and replace the molded lumps with thin
above the number 4 and 6 road wheel stations strip to make lifting rings
• Replace all roadwheels with Tamiya or DML items.
The Trumpeter wheels have the poly caps molded as
the center of the roadwheels and have a gap when Drivers Hatch
constructed that is a major pain to fill to fill. Tamiya • Add a raised ring of .010 x.060 starting about 1mm in
wheels can be ordered by the sprue number for around front of the raised portion of the hatch on one side to
10 dollars or less from Hobbylink Japan, while half the the opposite side of the hatch. Sand and file the strips
price of the kit it adds immense detail to your model. to match the contours of the hatch edges, leaving a
1mm overlap on the edge of the hatch.
• When the lower hull and upper hull are joined add a
weld seem across the glacis plate, right where the seem • Cut a notch in the styrene with a razor saw to match up
from joining the hulls is about the correct place with the notch in the front slope in front of the hatch
• Add a Mud scraper. It’s a simple rectangle bolted to the • Add square reinforcing plate behind center vision block
hull directly in front of the drive sprocket and fits mount. Add the hatch lock on the back of the drivers
above the inside teeth hatch, using .030 square strip. Add a small hook on the
lock using copper wire (consult reference photos)
• Add vision blocks made from strip styrene. Using
Rear Hull Plate stretched sprue, add wiper blades to the center vision block.
• Discard kit taillights and replace with separate
taillights, (these lights cannot be cut out of the kit piece
unfortunately, but they are available as separate pieces Upper Hull
in Academy Humvee kits as well as DML Abrams kits • Replace kit pieces C2 with .020 rod or brass
and most softskins, these lights are standard issue • Add weld seams to the front plate, right where the
through the US Military and are used on almost every upper hull and lower hull are joined, It is a thick but
vehicle in inventory) fairly neat weld seem.
• Add an .040 styrene spacer behind the taillight then • Add vertical weld seams along the rear length of the
add a 7mm diameter styrene or brass tube as the hull where the air intake angle stops and the flat engine
taillight guard deck begins
• Cut 3mm deep X 3mm long square out of the tube, on • Box in fire extinguisher with .030 styrene to replace
the inside right for the left side of the tank and the kit part
inside left for the right side of the tank • Manipulate the torsion bars so they have a forward
• DO NOT add APU (pieces D9, 10,11,12,13,14 and lean, *common with M1A1 HA and M1A2 tank as a
C38) to the hull result of heavier armor in the front hull and turret*
• DO NOT add pieces C26 and C30 and fill locator holes • Replace the kit wheels with Tamiya offerings, the way
• Remove the round rod on the right side next to the the Trumpeter wheels are designed is terrible, the poly
taillight and replace it with a hollow styrene or brass cap center while with acceptable detail leaves large
tube or just a drilled rod gaps and poor fit. *Note, the Tamiya Wheels will only
• Add a conduit from the end of the rod mentioned above fit without the poly caps inside of them*
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 12
by Stephen Tyliszczak

• Crew heater drain drilled out *round opening directly of each panel with appropriate number of bolts for weather
in front of NBC system* stripping or you can use Eduard’s armor fitting sets.
• Use styrene strip or sheet to box in the sponson • Cable foot loops on front side skirt replaced with wire
stowage box, it is very simple and easy and adds a lot • Cut off and replaced crow bar brackets with square
to the model tubing or PE
• Add plastic strip to the bottom and sides of parts the #1
Front Fenders Left and Right Skirt and #2 Right Skirt. These skirts
• Sand off the molded on fender torsion bar springs have additional armor and are thicker than the rest of
• Add hinges to the inside and outside of the fenders. the skirt panels. Replace the plastic the mounting
The inside arm consists of a 5mm X 1mm of .010 strip stirrups on the bottom of the # 1 skirts with fine
with a slice of .035 rod to represent the hinge pin. The twisted wire. Replace the square “blobs” on the top of
outside hinge is a 2mm X 1mm of .010 strip also with the first side skirt with square brass tubing.
the slice of .035 rod. • Thin the edges of the rest of the skirt panels. In
• Make “L” shaped fender spring rests and mount on the actuality, the skirts are about ? inch thick.
inside of the fender, 12mm forward from the rear of the • Open skirt hinge points with a drill & sharp knife.
fender Deepen the skirt joints with the back of a #11 blade.
• Fabricate fender retaining springs from thin wire or • Add upper skirt supports with plastic strip or epoxy
.020 rod putty. The supports are angled from the skirt to the
• Secure to the hull with “j” hooks made from the same raised tabs on the upper hull plate. Consult references
material, with the hook in the “J” being of the same for correct shapes. Add retaining pin details with slices
diameter as the fender spring rod. Drill the holes for of .035 and .047 rod. Add PE retaining chains.
the spring retainers 4mm from the outside edge of the • On most tanks, the #7 skirt is removed. Cut the skirt
hull and 2mm from the inside edge. Use CA to secure off, leaving the piano hinge intact. Drill five holes in a
the hooks. .010 X .030 strip of plastic. Then glue the strip to the
• Detail Point: tank crews will store their extra track end hinge. Add two 2mm long pieces of .020 diameter rod
connectors by inserting them on the inside arms of the to the rear mud flaps.
spring rods. This keeps them handy as well as provides a
device to keep the fender (when rotated 180 degrees, under TURRET
the raised fender) when conducting track maintenance. Turret Face
• If desired, the “X” shaped depression can be filled to • The turret face on the left side is the worst part of this
add a bit of variety to your model, one fender with the kit; there is a 4mm deficiency with the turret face. The
“X” and one without turret face is short 4mm’s and needs to be fixed; it is
inherently hard to explain this so refer to the drawing
for the easiest explanation (figure 4)
Headlights
• Drill out headlights and replace them with MV lenses • The left outside side of the turret face is the incorrect
(LS 29). Add strip to the rear of the headlight one, the inside (mantlet side) is correct
assemblies to allow it to make contact with the cylinder. • The easiest way to fix this is take the turret face and
pay it face down on a sheet of .030 sheet, Mark the
existing bottom edge of the turret face, then measure
Headlight Brush Guards
4mm down along the angle of the turret side (align
• The kit brush guards are terribly lacking detail and are
your ruler to the turret edge) and mark 4mm down.
of the older type, make new ones with .030x.060 strip
After you mark that and the inside edge of the turret
in a simple “L” shape with a bolt on top of the “L”
(the mantle side) then connect the dots and you will be
left with an isosceles triangle and cut it out and you
Tracks have the new piece to correct the front plate.
• Replace the kit tracks with either AFC Club “Bigfoot” • The left side of the turret now needs to be fixed so it
tracks of ArmorTrack T-158 track. DO NOT use T-156 matches up with the new 4mm turret face. The way to
track also from ArmorTrack, that is the older version do this is identical to the way you made the triangle for
and is not appropriate for an M1A2 the front plate.
• On the side of the turret there is a slight curve upwards
Side Skirts about 3mm before the face of the turret, it is very slight
• Assemble per instructions but add .005 strip along length but noticeable, the Tamiya and DML kits have this
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 13
by Stephen Tyliszczak

shown so you can refer to them if you have them or fitting might be needed here as well as filling of some
refer to the drawings in the list notches and making new notches with a file.
• After you have fixed the front and the sides you have • Cap the ends with .010x.080 strip with the edged
to make a piece to fit the bottom so that the underside sanded to be rounded
is not hollow, this requires a lot of guesswork and
sanding so cut a piece to the basic size and shape and
Tow Cable Attachments
then fill and sand until you get it to fit, remember that
• Remove the ill shaped bulges on the front of the turret.
it is on the bottom of the turret and will rarely if ever
Replace with an angled /triangular shaped slice of
be seen so it does not need to be perfect but should be
styrene tubing.
done well on the front and side bottom edges.
• Use.040 styrene rod to make “T” shaped forward
attachment point.
EPLARS Mast
• Make five cup shaped mounting clips per side from
• On the right hand rear of the turret directly behind the turret
aluminum or plastic, 1mm wide, mounting the first one
stowage box on the SIDE of the turret there is a new mast
15mm from the front attachment, below the turret box,
on the M1A2. To replicate it take a piece of ? tube and the
and then 10mm apart there after. Another option is to
easiest solution is to take a piece from an Academy M113
use the clips that come with the Eduard PE set
kit (piece B22) and fill the hole in the center with .020 rod
• The rear cable retainer is a “C” shaped sleeve, 3mm
long, to allow the tow cable end to slide into it to
Turret Boxes secure the cable on the turret.
• Ensure the boxes mount square and flush on the turret.
Add .50-caliber ammunition can mount and straps as
well as the turret box mounting point, both are found in Smoke Grenade Boxes
the Eduard PE set. • Add mounting points behind the mounting tabs that
raise the box .5 to 1mm above the side of turret.
• Add a wire loop for the upper attachment point for the
ammunition can strap • Add the missing hinge detail to the top of the box with
strip, 2mm from the ends of the box.
• The sponson box lid handles can be replaced with the
parts found in the Eduard PE set, the only drawback is
that they are flat. The kit handles can be carefully cut Loader’s Hatch
off and repositioned as the real ones have a habit of • Add a 1.5mm circular strip of .010 styrene to the edge
coming unlatched if they are not locked with a padlock. of the Loader’s hatch to make the reinforced lip, found
• Add padlocks if desired on M1A1s &M1A2s in the late 1990’s. Leave a slight
overlap of the strip on the outside of the hatch.
• Add the handle, made from copper wire, to the hatch at
Turret Rails
the 2 o’clock position.
• Make all 6 turret rails from brass or styrene rod (.030-
.035 diameter). Make a rounded 90 degree angle in • Make the hatch latch post from a 1mm x 1mm piece of
them and insert them into pre-drilled holes in the turret styrene with a wire or styrene rod post. Mount it at the
and in the cutout notches in the turret boxes. Some dry 8:30 position on the new rim on the hatch.

FIGURE 4
TURRET DETAILS

EPLARS mast

loader’s headlight
hatch stop guards

add 4mm to the outside

edge of the turret
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 14
by Stephen Tyliszczak

• Add the two hasps to the hatch. The first is the Main Gun
security hasp made from styrene strip located next to • Assemble gun per instructions, make sure the seam line
the hatch handle. The second is a shipping latch, is filled or replace with an aftermarket aluminum barrel
consisting of an angled metal tab on the front of the or replace forward part of the barrel with rod, if you
hatch at the 12:00 position and a swiveling rod/latch, choose the latter follow these instructions:
similar to an eye bolt (pivot) with a wing nut on the • Detail can be added by adding bolt heads and drill out
end to secure the hatch (consult references). the bottom of the front clamps and deepening the slots
on the bore evacuator retaining ring.
Loader’s M240 & Mount • The bore evacuator, which is made from Kevlar, can
• Add a locking lever to the base of the MG Mount,. have a smooth or rough finish to it.
Add a second handle, consisting of a rod with a • Replace the muzzle piece C62 with appropriately sized
circular grip added to the MG at the post on the bottom styrene or brass/aluminum rod
of MG base (consult references).
• Laminate two pieces of .030 or a piece of .060 sheet
• Add a charging cable made from thin wire to the right and cut a rectangle and using a round file, file a round
side of the MG. channel into one side so it will fit the new muzzle, this
• Add a latch on the back of the spent brass catcher is the mount for the Muzzle Reference sensor
below the MG. Drill out the flash suppressor on the • Add a strip of aluminum foil inside of the muzzle to
end of the barrel. replicate the chrome barrel lining.
• The kit Muzzle Reference Sensor (MRS), Part C60, is
Improved Commander’s Weapon Station acceptable with minimal work. File the rear to a 45
• Hatch: Assemble per instructions. Add a strap handle degree angle and drill out the tube (if desired.) Make
to top of the inner hatch plate. Use .035 rod or a sure the tube is aligned with the Gunners Sight or using
similar sized disk for the attachment points and a strip the drawings made in this list scratchbuild a new one
of foil for the nylon strap. Add securing bolt detail.
• Replace part F14 with a new vision block made to Gun Mantlet
match the rest of the ICWS vision blocks • Assemble per instructions.
• Fill all indentations in the tops of the vision blocks, • Replace the molded bolt detail on the sides with new
they are way oversize and can be replaced if desired ones from Grandt Line, punched from styrene with a
with a very small drill hex punch & die set, or salami sliced from hex rod.
• Vision Blocks: Improvements can be added by carving • Add the mantlet side guards from either .005 styrene or
out the molded vision block and replacing them with aluminum from a soda can. Add three bolts on the top
Plexiglas or clear styrene about .060-.080 in thickness. per side from the techniques described above.
An easier fix is to replicate the glass using exposed
• Replace part D1 with a piece of .020x.060
35mm film or paint, especially if the TC’s hatch is
closed. • Drill two holes into the above mentioned part and single
holes into parts C25. These tabs allow the mounting of
• Replace the ammunition can mount and ammunition
gunnery training devices above the main gun.
tray with Eduard PE.
• Make the channel for the gunner’s auxiliary sight from
• Replace the.50 Caliber ammunition can with a resin or
half a section of styrene tube, sliced lengthwise. Use
detailed plastic version
drills and a round needle file to ensure the channel
maintains the rounded interior shape.
Gunner’s Primary Sight & Armored Cover • Drill out the co-axial machine gun blast tube, Part C21
• Add a 1mm long section of .025 rod to the rear of the and mount.
armored sight cover, 7mm from each side. Add
• Cut off the debris cover from part C19 and replace with a
another 1mm rod on each side of the armored sight
piece of .005 styrene or brass, it is possible to salvage the
cover, 5mm from the rear to replicate the lifting eye
existing hinged by careful slicing with a razor blade
mounts.
• The sight itself is normally painted NATO green, even
if the tank is sand colored. Turret Rear/Wind Sensor
• The kit wind sensor accurately represents one of the
• Detail Note: The top rear of the armored sight cover is
several styles of wind sensors found on the M1 series
normally chipped and slightly rusted from spent brass
tanks.
from the .50 caliber machine gun.
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 15
by Stephen Tyliszczak

• Replace the stowed wind sensor mount with the one • Replace the Trumpeter APU (pieces F20 through F26)
found ion the Eduard PE set. with either a DML APU or a resin Legends replacement.
The following lists will improve any of them
Radio Antennas & Mounts • Replace all of the bolt detail on the outside of the APU
• Add coils springs made from thin wire to the kit with Grandt Line bolts.
antenna bases, Part C24. • Fabricate new top and flush access doors for the APU
• Antennas come in two varieties. Both have a tear-drop from .010 styrene. Add piano hinges made from .010
shaped antenna safety ball on the end. Antenna tie strip and .020 rod. The two smaller doors are raised
downs consist of as metal clip and a rope, normally above the surface and also made from .010 styrene
tied to the turret rails on the front of the turret • Make new “D” shaped handles from styrene rod and
- the fiberglass antenna is about 7 foot long and can stretched sprue for the access doors on the top of the APU.
be easily replicated with .030 styrene rod, • Add cabling to attach to APU connector box on the turret
sanded to a taper. • Place unit in the bustle rack
- the metal version is about four feet long and quite • See the pictures on the Full Metal Jacket website
flexible. (http://www.kithobbyist.com/AFVInteriors/fullmetal/fu
- both antennas types are normally tied down forward llmet.html) for more details
during maneuvers.
DETAILS
Bustle Rack ID Panels
• Make four basket rails from brass or plastic rod (.030- • Tactical Signs. Signs used to identify/differentiate
.035), each having a rounded 90 degree corner (make a friendly tanks. They are normally geometrically
jig to ensure four uniform rails with the proper rounded shaped: square, rectangular or octagons. The markings
corners.) contain numbers that identify the battalion and
• Add expanded or PE diamond mesh on the base rail. company (sometimes the vehicle bumper number) of
• Make sure that there is no visible gap between parts the vehicle. Colors depend on units, consult
D30 and D21/33 references.
• Use strip to fill in the gap made when you glue the top • Thermal ID Panels. Two of these corrugated panels
two rails to part D17/35 come with the SD USMC M1A1 HA kit, however,
three are usually found on a tank to prevent fratricide
through the use of thermal tape on the angled surfaces.
Blowout panels These are easily fabricated using Evergreen .100
• The blowout panels on the M1A2, Piece C43, have Clapboard Siding cut into panels 21mm wide x 15mm
three disks on them in a V Pattern, the tops of these high (6 “strips” high). Frame the sides and bottom
disks have protrusions on them which need to be with .010 strip. Paint NATO green with khaki strips on
sanded off and the disks sanded smooth the angled surfaces to replicate the thermal tape.
• Add weld seems around the disks, this is best done by
letting solvent cement such as Tenax flow around them
20mm Storage Cans
and then add the welds with a knife blade, pointed file
• Two or four 20mm Ammunition Cans are normally
end, etc..
fixed to the bustle rack for additional storage, with one
• On the left blowout panel take a piece of .060 strip outside of the first vertical support and the second
about 4mm tall and file/sand an angle to one end between the first and second vertical support, repeat on
leaving 4mm along the top the other side.
• Drill a hole into the piece and insert a piece of .030 rod
about 5-6mm long with the sides even on both sides
Spare Road Wheels
• Attach the piece to a small square about 3-4mm and • Storage locations vary by units. The most common is to
attach directly to the right of the disk closest to the mount the wheel either forward of the CITV, using the
loaders hatch bolts found there or on the turret rails using a guide horn
• Another option is to mount it on the turret or bustle
Auxiliary Power Unit rack rails using a M-88 track center guide.
• Auxiliary Power Unit: the Trumpeter APU (called • A red jerry can or two is usually carried to the left of the
Toolbox A) is under scale and has crude detail APU, these have diesel fuel and are strictly for the APU.
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 16
by Stephen Tyliszczak

further reading selected detail sets

BOOKS AFV CLUB
TM 9-2350-264-10-1. Operator’s Manual, Operator #AF3512 M1A1 & A2 Track Workable
Controls, PMCS, and Operation Under Usual Conditions for
Tank, Combat, Full-Tracked: 120-mm Gun, M1A1 General ARMOR TRACK MODELS
Abrams. 25 September 1990. #TK- 02 T-156 Rubber Cheveron Track, Workable
M1 Abrams in Action, Armor #26, Squadron Signal with resin Idler wheels and Drive Sprockets
Publications, Jim Mesko, 1989 and Retainer Ring (these are for K1/K1A1)

M1 Abrams Main Battle Tank, 1982-92, Osprey New #TK-03 T-158 Rubber Block Track, workable with
Vanguard, Steve Zaloga/Peter Sarson, 1997 resin Idlers and Drive Sprockets and
Retainer Ring for M1
Tank War-Central Front NATO vs Warsaw Pact, Osprey
Elite Series, Steve Zaloga, 1989 DRAGON
War Machines No.6: M1-M1IP-M1A1 Abrams Main Battle #3804 Track Width Mine Plow
Tank, Verlinden Productions, 1991
Warmachines No 8: A Gulf War Eyewitness Report, EDUARD
Verlinden Productions 1991 #35259 M1A2 Abrams Detail Set
Tanks Illustrated No. 8: US Battle Tanks Today #35346 M1A1 Abrams Armor Fittings
Mini Color Series M1A1/A2 Abrams, Concord Publications
Company, Walter Bohm, 1999 #35057 M1A1 Abrams Detail Set

3rd Brave Rifles In The Storm, Concord Publications #35333 M1A1 Abrams (TA)
Company, Chris Mrosko, 1992
LEGEND PRODUCTIONS
Blitzkrieg In The Gulf, Armor of the 100 Hour War,
Concord Publications Company, Yves Debay, 1991 #LF1029 M1 Accessory Set
100 Days, 100 Hours “Phantom Brigade In the Gulf MODEL POINT
War”, Concord Publications Company, Edgar A. Stitt, 1991
#MP3559-1 120mm M256 Turned Aluminum Barrel
Operation Desert Shield prelude to “Desert Storm”,
Concord Publications Company, Yves Debay and Michael MODEL VALLEY/LEGEND PRODUCTIONS
Green, 1991
MV #001 M1 Tank Engine Set
USAEUR, The United States Army In Europe, Concord LP #LF1028
Publications Company, Michael Jerchel, 1992
Armor of The West, NATO’s AFNORTH & NORTHAG, ON THE MARK MODELS
Concord Publications Company, Yves Debay, 1992 #AR-3555 Modern US Handles
National Training Center, Ultimate In Land Warfare
Training, Concord Publications Company, Greg Stewart, ROYAL MODELS
1992 #022 US M1A1 Abrams Micro Detail Set
Peace By Force, Elite Forces of the IFOR, Concord
Publications Company, Yves Debay & James Hill, 1997 VERLINDEN PRODUCTIONS
Special Ops, Journal of the Elite Forces, Volume 7, #621 M1 Abrams Update & Interior Set
Kosovo Special, Concord Publications Company, Yves Sheet #508 M-1 Abrams Tank Markings
Debay & Carl Schulze, 1999
M1 Abrams Main Battle Tank, The Combat and
Development History of the General Dynamics M1 and
M1A1 Tanks, Motorbooks International, Mil Tech Series,
Michael Green, 1992
Museum Ordnance special #9, Abrams Main Battle Tank
M1A1 and M1A2, Darlington Productions, Inc., Glen
Broman, 1996
Hunnicut M1 Book, Vol. 1 & 2.
Ground War Desert Storm, #6122, Squadron Productions,
Jim Mesko, 1991
USAREUR, Landpower #3003, Presidio Press, Skinner,1989
US Marine Corps, Presidio Press, Hans Halberstadt,1993
The Armored Fist Time Life Books
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 17

Review for Eduard’s M1-A1 Abrams Detail Set (#35057) for the Academy M1 Kit (#1345)
by Pete Beccera

The PE set includes 46 pieces, not including duplicated skate ring, M240 mount, ammo mount, periscope detail
parts like the sprocket retainers or various handles. Hull and the handle. Cupola detail includes the latch,
details include driver’s vision block wipers, fuel cap periscope guards, lifting rings, ammo mount, .50 cal
handles, access plate handles, and other various hull sleeve and hot barrel handle. Gunner’s primary sight
handles and back deck bolt-down details. Also included details include the doghouse doors and hinges. Additional
are NBC over pressurization system details, taillight turret details are tow cable mounts, sponson box handles,
guards and the fire suppression T-pull handle. smoke grenade launcher mount, and spare .50 cal ammo
Turret details for the loader’s hatch include the latch, racks.

Review for Verlinden Productions’ M1 Abrams Update & Interior Set (#621)
by Matthew Malagorski

This is a very comprehensive, well detailed and cast set • 9 Resin parts for the Driver’s compartment
that can be used to detail the poor Minicraft/Academy • 9 Resin parts for the Batteries and Replacement
M1A1 kit, as well as, either the original Tamiya M1, or Battery Covers
M1A1 kits.
• 9 Resin parts for highly detailed complete replacement
The set can be used to convert Tamiya’s original M1
M2HB and M240 machine guns
kit to make an IPM1, or to detail the kit’s listed above.
Highly recommended if you can find one. • 3 Resin parts to make up a CLAMS Unit and External
APU
Kit Components
40 cast resin, 52 photo etch, 1 length copper wire, 2 Photo Etch Parts breakdown
pieces plastic tubing, 3 page instruction sheet with • 2 Photo etch parts for the turret interior
assembly diagrams and painting instructions • 10 Photo etch parts for the machine gun mounts
• 22 Photo etch parts for the turret basket
Recommended Kit
Academy, also possibly Tamiya M1 or M1A1 • 2 Photo Etch parts for the smoke grenade launcher
mounts
Status • 2 Photo Etch parts for the Commander’s hatch
Currently out of production.
• 2 Photo Etch parts for the Loader’s machine gun ring
Resin Parts breakdown • 6 Photo Etch parts for the CLAMS mounting brackets
• 10 Resin parts for the turret interior that includes all • 6 Photo Etch parts for the upper oil cooler doors
equipment visible through the open hatches
MISSING LINKS M1 Abrams Tweaks List 1.0 18

Review for Eduard’s M1-A1 Abrams Detail Set (#35333) for the Tamiya kit
by Stephen Tyliszczak

The PE set includes 144 pieces, including duplicated parts replicate the field expedient holders for concertina wire.
like the sprocket retainers and various handles. Hull Turret details for the loader’s hatch include the latch,
details include driver’s vision block wipers, fuel cap skate ring, M240 ammo box holder, 7.62mm ammo belt,
handles, access plate handles, and other various hull handle for the 7.62 ammo box, interior periscope detail
handles and back deck bolt-down details. Also included and the handle. Cupola detail includes the latch, lifting
are Turret basket mesh that will fit the Tamiya kit rings, ammo box holder and an ammo belt for the 50 and
exclusively, as well as air intake mesh, which is handle for the ammo box and a piece for the M2 HMG
duplicated to give the proper spaced appearance. There sight. Gunner’s primary sight details include the
are interior pieces for the drivers compartment which doghouse doors and hinges. Additional turret details are
include two pieces of PE which has various dials and tow cable mounts, turret box handles, smoke grenade
gauges and a piece of film to go behind one of the PE launcher mount, and spare .50 cal ammo racks, IFF
pieces in Eduard’s usual style. These pieces are fairly panels, parts to detail the 20mm ammo cans included
accurate but are only good for a façade of an interior if with the Tamiya kit, an reel for wire which is seen often
you add a Driver figure. Pieces to detail the external APU on USMC M1A1 HC tanks. They also include an
are also included and will add a lot to the kit piece, these octagonal plate for unit markings. PE bits for the smoke
can be used on any make of APU as all current M1 kits discharger reload boxes are also included. A coax shroud
include them despite the fact they were rarely used. is also included, as is a debris door for the mantlet. The
Chains for the retainer pins for all side skirt pins are set is very comprehensive but lacks some of the simple
included as well as crow bar brackets for the front side but necessary items which are included in earlier sets
skirt. For the rear hull plate they include two bits of PE to such as the fire extinguisher hull handle.

Review for Eduard’s M1-A1 Abrams Detail Set (#35259) for the Shanghai Dragon M1A2Abrams kit
by Stephen Tyliszczak

The PE set includes 148 pieces, including duplicated deck is thoroughly worked over with replacements for all
parts like the sprocket retainers and various handles. Hull engine grilles and air intakes, which are not necessary but
details include, fuel cap handles, access plate handles, look good. Interestingly enough they also include parts to
and other various hull handles and back deck bolt-down make the mud flaps on the rear hull behind the sprocket
details. Also included are Turret basket mesh that will fit though it should be noted these are used ONLY on Saudi
the DML kit exclusively, as well as air intake mesh. Arabian M1A2 Abrams tanks, not on U.S. Army tanks.
There are interior pieces for the drivers compartment Turret details for the loader’s hatch include the latch,
which include two pieces of PE which has various dials skate ring, M240 ammo box holder, 7.62mm ammo belt,
and gauges and a piece of film to go behind one of the handle for the 7.62 ammo box, and the handle. Cupola
PE pieces in Eduard’s usual style. These pieces are fairly detail is limited to the Machine gun and includes, ammo
accurate but are only good for a façade of an interior if box holder and an ammo belt for the 50 and handle for
you add a Driver figure. Pieces to detail the external APU the ammo box and a rear flip up sight for the 50. Cal and
are also included and will add a lot to the kit piece, these front sight and barrel jacket.. Additional turret details are
can be used on any make of APU as all current M1 kits tow cable mounts, turret box handles, and spare .50 cal
include them despite the fact they were rarely used. Crow ammo racks. A coax shroud is also included for the
bar brackets for the front side skirt are also included. For mantlet. The set still lacks some of the simple but
the rear hull plate they include PE replacements for the necessary items, which are included in earlier sets such as
engine grilles, which should not be used as they are flat the fire extinguisher hull handle. And many of the needed
while the real grilles are just like on the kit. The engine fixes for an M1A2 tank especially around the cupola.