PATREON.

COM/STATIONFORGE
Vallejo Citadel Scale 75
70.918 Ivory Khorne Red Eclipse Grey
70.950 Black Rhinox Hide
70.847 Dark Sand Doombull Brown
70.900 French Mirage Blue Skrag Brown
70.994 Dark Grey Tau Light Ochre
70.898 Dark Sea Blue Evil Sunz Scarlet
70.903 Intermediate Blue Naggaroth Night
70.921 English Uniform Caliban Green
70.871 Leather Brown Warpstone Glow
70.992 Neutral Grey Moot Green
70.830 German Fieldgrey WW2
70.733 Orange Fluo
70.730 Yellow Fluo
70.808 Blue Green
72.050 Cold Grey
72.014 Warlord Purple
72.015 Hexed Lichen
After gluing the miniature together and applying
some sand to the base the miniature is undercoated
with Black Primer.
We can then start laying down some basecoats.

Dark Robe: Black + Dark Grey 1:1

Purple Robe: Naggaroth Night

Gun Stock & Leather: Rhinox Hide

Metal body: Dark Sea Blue

Tubes: Caliban Green

We’ll start painting the robes first, starting with the
darker of the two.

The first highlights are painted along the tops of the

folds using Dark Grey.
Continue highlighting with a 1:1 mix of Dark Grey +
French Mirage Blue.
A final highlight of French Mirage Blue is painted at
the uppermost area of the robes.

I choose to stop highlighting here as the darker robes

are below the waistline of the figure and making
them too bright might divert more attention to them
than we want.
Moving on to the purple robes, the first major
highlights are painted using Hexed Lichen.

I leave the basecoat visible wherever I want there to

be areas of shadow.
Continue building up the highlights with a 1:2 mix of
Hexed Lichen + Warlord Purple.

This stage of highlights are quite broad, covering

around 75% of the previous layer.
At this stage I decide to add a final highlight along
the tops of the folds and edges of the robe.

For this I use a mix of 1:1 of the previous stage and

Cold Grey.

This adds some additional brightness and definition

without over-saturating the robe.
If you want something more vibrant you could
instead replace this step with pure Warlord Purple.
I’ve avoided doing that because I’m going to make
the chemical tubes really saturated later on.
After the robes are done I move on to highlighting the
mechanical parts of the body.

Each panel is outlined with a 1:1 mix of Dark Sea

Blue + Intermediate Blue.
The highlights are refined using a 1:1 of the previous
mix + Ivory.
Final highlights are added with Ivory.

In terms of value, Ivory is the brightest color in our

palette so it needs to be used sparingly. Adding small
amounts of this to the corners and edges of the
armor really helps give them more definition.

Remember: You can open each slide in a new tab to

get a larger view.
I want a semi-transparent look for the tubes so the
first thing I do is make a mix of 1:1 Caliban Green +
Ivory.

This mix is applied in thin lines along the top and

bottom of each tube to represent light passing
through.
A line of Warpstone Glow is then applied along the
center of each tube.

Make sure to leave the Caliban Green basecoat

visible on either side.
The previous step is repeated using Moot Green.

However, this time the line will be much more

irregular. Closer to the face the line is more solid but
as it gets further away it turns into a series of spaced
out dots.
A few more dots are added with pure Ivory.

The eyes are also picked out with Ivory at this stage.
Yellow Fluo is then applied over the Ivory dots from
the previous step to give the chem tubes some extra
intensity.

This extreme saturation also helps make the

miniatures head a focal point.
The leather is highlighted with Doombull Brown,
leaving the Rhinox Hide basecoat visible only in the
recesses.
These areas are then outlined using Skrag Brown.
A final highlight of irregular dots and thin lines is
added to the edges with Tau Light Ochre.
The rifle has 3 main parts: The Barrel, Receiver and
Stock.

The Barrel is painted using Eclipse Grey. A thin line of

black is left along the bottom each cylinder to help
give them some volume.

The Receiver is basecoated with a 1:1 mix of English

Uniform + Dark Sea Blue.

And we’ve previously painted the Stock with Rhinox

Hide.
The Barrel is outlined using Neutral Grey.
The upper edges of the barrel are then given a thin
line of 1:1 Neutral Grey + Ivory.
Some smaller lines of Ivory are then painted
following the one from the previous step but focused
closer to the corners.
The Receiver is highlighted with English Uniform.
The edges are the outlined using a 1:1 mix of English
Uniform and Dark Sand.
A second smaller edge highlight is then applied with
pure Dark Sand.
Finally, the corners are given a few small dots of
Ivory.
The stock is highlighted with Leather Brown.

Some dots and slashes are added between the

shadow and highlight to create some texture.
A 1:1 mix of Leather Brown + Dark Sand is used to
outline the Stock.
The upper edge of the stock is then highlighted using
a 1:2 mix of Leather Brown + Dark Sand.
The minor details on the backpack are painted as
follows.

The grenades are first painted with Khorne Red. They

are then highlighted with Evil Sunz Scarlet.

The strings are basecoated with German Fieldgrey

and then highlighted with a 1:1 mix of German
Fieldgrey + Ivory.

The orange light is a dot of Ivory with Orange Fluo

painted over.

The brass cog and small cylinder are painted using

the same method as the Receiver on the rifle.
The base is basecoated with Dark Sea Blue.
A ring of Blue Green is then painted around the
miniature.
The two colors are then wet blended together so that
the center of the base is lighter than the edges.
Remember to clean up the base rim with Black if
you got a bit overzealous while painting the sand.

Your Junkard is then complete!

Guide by Kav
@WaywardBrushStudio