0% found this document useful (0 votes)
154 views130 pages

Textile Industry Insights

This issue of Bangladesh Textile Today magazine features innovations in scouring processes that can save time and resources. A new scouring method at 55°C that incorporates enzymes can scour and prepare fabric for dyeing in just 90 minutes, saving 1.5 hours compared to conventional methods. It uses only two chemicals instead of nine and reduces water consumption by 50%. The faster, more efficient scouring process is better for the environment, chemicals used, water usage and production time.

Uploaded by

Abdul kader
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
154 views130 pages

Textile Industry Insights

This issue of Bangladesh Textile Today magazine features innovations in scouring processes that can save time and resources. A new scouring method at 55°C that incorporates enzymes can scour and prepare fabric for dyeing in just 90 minutes, saving 1.5 hours compared to conventional methods. It uses only two chemicals instead of nine and reduces water consumption by 50%. The faster, more efficient scouring process is better for the environment, chemicals used, water usage and production time.

Uploaded by

Abdul kader
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

BDT 300, USD 10 | www.textiletoday.com.

bd

Bangladesh

16
October 2023
in

Year
An Innovation Hub ISSN 1999-2076
Reg. 8/2012

October 2023
Issue 10 | 130 Pages |

   
Volume 16 |

  



 
  

Unveiling industry best practices




Apparel accessories & fashion


October 2023



   

See at page 31 See at page 21 See at page 23

See at page 35 See at page 27 See at page 17


October 2023

2023-24

Powered by ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ


Since 1894
See at page 19-22 www.training.textiletoday.com.bd Please turn off to see the full advertisement
ANTHYDRIN OFC
Powerful and sustainable
water repellency

PFC-free water repellent finishing

ANTHYDRIN OFC is an environmentally friendly water


repellent for all kind of fabrics. It was especially developed to
meet the requirements of eliminating of PFOS and PFOA as
critical substances while showing a very good water
finishing chain; ranging from pre-treatment and dyeing
repellency as well as washing resistance combined with a
right through to finishing aids.
soft handle

Nexagen Specialities Ltd


Giant Business Tower, Level-12(West), Plot # 3 & 3/A
Zschimmer & Schwarz, Textile Auxilairies Division Sector # 3, Uttara C/A, Dhaka- 1230, Bangladesh.
Chemnitztalstrasse 1, 09217 Burgstaedt I DE PBX: + 88 09611775588, FAX: +88 09611775522
T+ 49 3724 - 67222, F+ 49 3724 67 209 Email: [email protected]
E: [email protected] ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ
www. zschimmer-schwarz.com
Since 1894
An Innovation Hub

Editorial Panel

Editor in Chief
Prof. Md. Monirul Islam

Executive Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan

Technical Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman
Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak)
Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim

Consulting Editor
Dr. NN Mahapatra
Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz
C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
Ashfaque Ahmed

Associate Editor
Jamal Abdun Naser
Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher)
Eousup Novee


Managing Editor
Akhi Akter

Sub Editor
Sanjoy Kumar Saha

Technical Team 


Co-ordinator     
Setara Begum


Member
S.N. Abdullah
Amzad Hossain Monir

Editor & Publisher


A.S.M Tareq Amin

Published on 04th November 2023 by


Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. FEATURES:
House-41, Road-5, Block-B,
Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Scouring at 55°C
Tel: +88 02 55093682
Email: [email protected] Scouring & Enzyme in same bath
Web: www.textiletoday.com.bd
Needs only 90 minutes to start dyeing process
Printed by: Saves 1:30 hours
VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.
Saves 50% water consumption
The views expressed in the magazine
are not necessarily those of the Needs only 02 chemicals instead of 09 chemicals
publisher or the editor. We have
taken every effort to ensure accuracy.
Bangladesh Textile Today does not
accept any liability for claims made
by advertisers or contributors. The
publisher reserves the right to edit and
publish any editorial material supplied
and does not accept responsibility for
loss or damages of any unsolicited
Chemical Steam Environment Water Time
material or contribution.
©All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan
Corporation Ltd. 2023
Volume 16, Issue 10 (October 2023)
Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.
For Better Tomorrow
BDT 300, USD 10 | www.textiletoday.com.bd Bangladesh

16
October 2023
in

Year
An Innovation Hub ISSN 1999-2076
Reg. 8/2012
Issue 10 | 130 Pages |

   
Read/Share
Volume 16 |

  




E-Copy Magazine
 
  




   

R
Bangladesh
See at page 31 See at page 21 See at page 23

An Innovation Hub
See at page 35 See at page 27 See at page 17

Content
2023-24

October’ 23 | Volume 16 | Issue 10


Powered by ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ
Since 1894
See at page 19-22 www.training.textiletoday.com.bd Please turn off to see the full advertisement

12 Editorial 26 Association Update 34 Exports Updates


Things need to be addressed
to ensure a standard wage 85% exports came from the RMG in
July-September 23-24 ($2.07bn, $11.62bn)
Export in Jul-Sept’ 23-24
Overall Export: $13.69bn
Growth: 13.07%

structure for RMG workers $2.07bn

Apparel Export Fetched


Apparel: $11.62bn
Growth: 13.07%
13.07% Growth
Home Textile: $189.5mn
Growth: -46.39%
Knit Export $6.76bn
$11.62bn

14-18 Cover Story


with 19.70% Growth
Jute & Jute Products: $221.9mn

Apparel Export Woven Export $4.85bn


Other Export with 4.97% Growth Leather Products: $267.5mn
Growth: -18.44%

Apparel export increases 13% in


first quarter of FY23-24
BGMEA seeks government policy
support to overcome challenges in
apparel sector 36-38 Experts Views

28-30 Person on the


Cover
How should minimum wages for
garment workers be increased?

19-22 TTH National


Conference Quiet luxury and its implications
for the global south

39-40 Advertorial
Russian fashion market looks
for Bangladesh as a reliable
Textile Talent Hunt 8.0 Sourcing Hub
National Conference finds 101
Innovation Masterminds 32-33 In Focus

24-26 Experts Views Sustainable Indigo Dyeing


Challenges & opportunities solution from Prashant West
Challenges Opportunities
» Increasing ethical & sustainable practices
Point Machinery Pvt Ltd
» Pursuit of Sustainability
» Raises production costs
» Eco-friendly materials
» Demand for fair pricing
» Reduce the long-term operational costs
» Innovative manufacturing technologies & practices
1. Modern machinery
(Prashant Group), India
» Higher initial investments
2. Energy-efficient processes
» Eco-friendly materials
3. Waste reduction measures

40 News & Analysis

Revolutionizing Bangladesh's Why woven garment items are


green garment industry: losing its ground to the knitwear
strategies for fair prices and
profitability (Part: 1) EU’s eye on Bangladesh labor
law reform to consider GSP plus
Distributor & Service Provider
Content October’ 23 | Volume 16 | Issue 10

Factory Tales Apparel Today Spinning Today

45 FT Editorial 71 AT Editorial 99 Cotton Today


World Cotton Day:
Government support can help Apparel exports decline in
‘Cotton is good’
smaller factories to survive and EU & US: Need more focus
sustain their business on non-traditional markets
100-102 Textile Today
Analysis
47-48 Experts Views 73-74 Top Story
Job shuffling: a leader-building ‘Sweaty' shirts causing
strategy for business 'concerns', check out
some ways
50-53 Factory Insight Bangladesh sees 68.05%
Rose Sweaters Ltd. aims to 76-77 Experts Views growth in cotton waste export
become a leader in the global 3 steps can secure your during Jul-Sep in FY 24
sweater market business next 3 decades
102 Collaboration
54 Textile Award 78-79 Exclusive Today
12 industrial units receive Interview TextileGenesis partners
with International Cotton
Bangabandhu Industrial Award
Association towards an
advanced textile industry
54 Investment
Update
Chinese company to invest 103 Collaboration
$23.15m in Uttara EPZ
We are always on our toes Today
to serve round-the-clock
Macy’s joins US Cotton
customer service
Trust Protocol to strengthen
56-57 Exclusive sustainability
Interview 80 Advertorial
ZSCH showcases high- 104-106 Advertorial
performance synthetic esters Rieter increasing recycled
at Lubricant Expo 2023 content with improving yarn
quality

82-83 Advertorial
“Global fashion brands
106 Exhibition
unequivocally rely on us” Review
Yarn Expo Autumn 2023 in
58 News & China was trend-setting for
Analysis global cotton yarn market
Chittagong port increases
‘cut off time’ for loading 107 Interview Story
RMG containers “Innovative technology can
Is sustainable the reduce energy cost of BD’s
XdotO collaborates with
future of fashion? spinning industry”
Hayleys Fabric PLC towards
a smart connected factory
84 Exclusive 108 Textile People
Interview
64-66 Advertorial Recover™ appoints
Anders Sjoblom as Chief
Executive Officer

110-111 Experts Views


Forge ahead, set sail
HT&K Chemicals is expanding Mastering the art of dyeing
for success
its business in Bangladesh nylon: techniques and insights
VICTORY BANGLA

COUNTRY LARGEST
DISTRIBUTOR AND AGENT

WHOLE SELLER AND INDENTOR

-WASHING
-KNIT
-TEXTILE
-DENIM

BASIC CHEMICALS :

-GLUBER SALT
-SODA ASH
-ACETIC ACID
-HYDRO SULPHITE
-CITRIC ACID

CONTACT:
+8801711368670
+880255153569-70
[email protected]
Editorial

Things need to be addressed


to ensure a standard wage
structure for RMG workers
Akhi Akter

Thousands of garment workers Wage inequalities Gender inequalities


have been protesting at major
Wage disparities within the RMG Gender disparities are prevalent
readymade garment (RMG)
sector are a significant concern. in the RMG industry, with
industrial zones since October 23
Workers performing similar women constituting the majority
demanding Tk23,000 as monthly
tasks in different factories may of the workforce but facing
minimum wage, after the RMG
receive vastly different salaries, discrimination in terms of
owners proposed Tk10,400 at
often based on their seniority or wages and opportunities for
the Minimum Wages Board on
relationships with management. To advancement. Need to ensure that
October 22. Currently, the RMG
ensure a standard wage structure, female workers receive equal pay
workers' minimum wage is Tk
it is essential to implement a fair for equal work is vital.
8,000, which is really insufficient
and transparent wage scale that
to live a standard life. The Skill development and training
considers factors like experience,
garments workers deserve a Investing in the skill development
skills, and responsibilities.
standard wage as they can sustain and training of RMG workers can
fighting the current inflation. Governments, lead to higher productivity and
BGMEA President Faruque Hassan factory owners, wages. Governments, industry
on 31 October claimed that a brands, labor unions, associations, brands and factory
group of outsiders is instigating and international owners should collaborate
the innocent garments workers organizations must to provide training programs
to create unrest in the industry collaborate to that equip workers with the
before the announcement of a guarantee fair wages skills needed to perform more
new pay structure for the sector. for the RMG workers. specialized tasks, which often
He assured that a better wage come with higher pay rates.
structure will be announced by the Compliance with labor laws
Overtime and working hours
second week of November and it
Many RMG workers are required to Stringent enforcement of labor
will be effective from December
work long hours, often in excess laws is paramount in ensuring
this year.
of legal limits, to meet production a standard wage structure.
There are some key issues that are Governments should establish
targets. Overtime work should be
needed to be addressed through regulatory bodies to oversee
compensated fairly, and workers
comprehensive reforms to ensure the RMG sector and ensure that
must have the choice to accept
a standard wage structure for RMG factories comply with wage
or decline such hours without
workers. Here I will try to explore regulations and labor standards.
facing repercussions. Standardized
these critical concerns and discuss
working hours, with appropriate In fine, governments, factory
potential solutions to create a
breaks and rest periods, are owners, brands, labor unions,
more equitable and sustainable
essential to ensure the well-being and international organizations
future for RMG workers.
and productivity of RMG workers. must collaborate to guarantee fair
Insufficient minimum wage wages for the RMG workers.
Lack of social benefits
Insufficient wages force workers
RMG workers often lack access
to live in poverty, struggle to make
to social benefits such as health
ends meet, and perpetuate a cycle
insurance, paid sick leave, and
of economic hardship. To address
maternity benefits. These benefits
this, governments and industry Author:
are essential for the physical and
stakeholders -- like manufacturers
financial security of workers and Akhi Akter
and brands -- must regularly
their families. Factories and brands Managing Editor
review and adjust the minimum
should be mandated to provide Textile Today
wage to reflect the cost of living
these benefits.
and inflation.

12 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Cover Story

How should minimum


wages for garment
workers be increased?
Textile Today Analysis

Bangladesh’s textile and apparel Tk 20,393. However, the and other daily commodities.
industry has been playing representatives of the owners have Which has made their standard of
an instrumental role in the proposed to make the minimum living very poor.
development of the country’s wage Tk 10,400.
One of the reasons for the
socio-economic aspect. The labor-
How much is affordable for the development of the RMG industry
intensive sector has been thriving
factories? in Bangladesh is the cheap
in the country’s demographic
labor market. And this is why
dividend facility. Having said that, Due to the recent global turmoil,
global fashion brands consider
setting the minimum wage for fuel costs, production costs, and
Bangladesh as a reliable sourcing
apparel workers has always been a daily expenses have increased
hub.
sensitive issue. drastically which has also pushed
up the business cost. In this “Many factories are
The minimum wage in the
situation, RMG owners have being forced to stop
RMG sector in Bangladesh was
expressed apprehension that operations, and some are
established in 1984. So far, the
production costs have increased shifting factories outside
minimum wage of the workers
manifold and product prices are the country under the
in this sector has been revised 6
not rising accordingly. On the pressure of repaying
times. And in 2018, the minimum
other hand, consumers in the main bank loans. Unethical
wage was revised to Tk 8,000,
export markets are buying less. buying behavior of
which is effective from 2019. We
observed labor unrest, pressure brands is playing a major
from trade unions and brands “There is a renewed role in these difficulties.”
& buyers led the government slowdown in our
to announce the revised pay key export markets.
structure for the garment sector, Product prices are not
with a slight increase in both basic increasing according to
Mohammad Hatem
and gross wages in six of the the cost of production.
Executive President
seven grades. Orders are already
BKMEA
Under the Labor Act of 2006, the on the decline from
Government of Bangladesh must November last year.”
review workers' wages every five On the other hand, fashion brands
years; which is due this year. in this country have been given
many conditions including various
As a response to that recently the
compliance, and certification
government constituted a Wage
Shovon Islam issues since the beginning.
Board to enhance and implement
Managing Director Which is increasing the cost of
the new wage structure by
Sparrow Group production of clothes manifold.
consulting with employers, labor
But, the buyers are reducing the
unions, and other stakeholders.
price of clothes on the contrary. In
In the fourth meeting of the Also, the cost of living has almost such a situation, garment owners
Minimum Wage Board which doubled due to recent inflation. say, most of the factories are not
was held on 22 October, the Workers find that a major portion able to make a minimum profit.
representatives of the workers of their income is spent on
On top of that, there are doubts
proposed to make the minimum meeting the cost of cooking oil
about whether the garment
wage of the garment sector

14 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Cover Story

industry will be able to take the


pressure of new wage increases.
Owners also fear that many
factories may close as a result.
And if the industry does not
survive, there will be uncertainty
about the livelihood of many
workers in this labor-intensive
industry.
BKMEA Executive President
Mohammad Hatem said, “Many
factories are being forced to stop
operations, and some are shifting
factories outside the country
under the pressure of repaying
bank loans. Unethical buying
behavior of brands is playing a
major role in these difficulties.”

“The recent wage hike


talk is going on and Representatives of Representative of
buyers, NGO’s, worker the workers demanded the owners offered
unions, trade bodies are
urging for a wage hike. Tk 20,393 Tk 10,400
Yes, workers need a
livable wage. But instead Production costs Product prices are not
if we train our workers
increased manifold rising accordingly
to upskill their efficiency
then automatically they
will get better payment. If a salary structure is imposed from outside, Buyers
This will also make the many small factories can shut down must take
worker valuable for the responsibility
industry.” Wage should be increased evaluating a of workers
worker’s competency

Government help is inevitable to sustain the industry

Engr. Abdus
Sobhan, CIP,
Managing Director
Auko-Tex Group, through training. Efficient wage hike talk is going on and
Employee can performs their buyers, NGO’s, worker unions,
job with higher productivity. An trade bodies are urging for a wage
Minimum wages should be
efficient employee is productive, hike. Yes, workers need a livable
increased naturally
and they know how to organize wage. But instead if we train our
Minimum wages of garments their time and effort in order workers to upskill their efficiency
workers as well as any other to complete daily tasks. They then automatically they will get
workers should be increased don't overuse resources or waste better payment. This will also
naturally evaluating a worker’s valuable time. make the worker valuable for the
competency. As there are so many industry.”
If a worker can provide more value,
competitive labor in the industry,
more efficient deliverables and Engr. Abdus Sobhan, CIP,
if factory owners do not pay them
his/her efficiency improves from Managing Director, Auko-Tex
according to their competency
50 percent to 90-100 percent, a Group, recently said, “The recent
and competitiveness, there can be
factory owner must increase his/ wage hike talk is going on and
a negative impact on them. So we
her wage as per their competency. buyers, NGO’s, worker unions,
need to set the right wage.
Engr. Abdus Sobhan, CIP, trade bodies are urging for a wage
In this case, a factory owner has hike. Yes, workers need a livable
Managing Director, Auko-Tex
a great responsibility to enhance wage. But instead if we train our
Group, recently said, “The recent
its workers’ skill and efficiency workers to upskill their efficiency

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 15


Cover Story

then automatically they will get law of the country the wage of the adjusted, but the salary is fixed
better payment. This will also garment workers is reviewed after after the review by an independent
make the worker valuable for the every five years and this time too board, he said.
industry.” it is reviewing after five year.
“If a salary structure is imposed
“In addition, there is a gap of So, no one needs to put pressure from outside, many factories may
standard skilled operators and on the owners to increase the eventually shut down and go out
other category workers in the salary of the workers as it is of business. That would be a huge
textile and apparel industry. So, written on the law how and when loss for the industry. We have to
when one of my skilled worker the wage board for the garment keep the industry alive. If the RMG
switch job – then it greatly workers will be formed and how industry thrives, the workers will
hampers my factories production the salary will be fixed for the get better salaries automatically.
quality and efficiency. Yes, the workers, Hatem said. And, for that, the buyers, the
wage hike discussion and process owners and the workers all have to
However, every year 5 percent
will be there – but the sustainable sit together and decide how to do
increment is added with the salary
way is to upskill the workers – so this,” he added.
at the end of every year, he said
they give better return in the long
adding since the five percent Therefore, every five years, the
run,” he said.
increment is added every year the pros and cons of the process
accumulative hike of the salary of of fixing the minimum wages
“The buyers will play the
the workers is 25 percent over the of workers need to be carefully
most crucial role here since
last five year. considered.
the owners' profit and the
workers' wages depend The five percent salary is hiked Buyers’ responsibility
on the products' price. every year because of inflation
Leaders of garment organizations
They have to increase the adjustment, said Hatem, however,
said that buyers must take
product prices. Otherwise, also said every time the salary
responsibility in this situation.
the industry cannot is hiked ahead of the national
Ethical pricing of clothing should
develop a sustainable election.
be ensured. When a product
solution to this issue.” He suggested for hiking the is sold who gets the large
salary of the workers either one amount of profit- miller or buyer
year after or one year before the (retailer)? Definitely, it is buyer
national election. and their profit margin is very high
comparatively than manufacturers.
If necessary, the salary can be
In the issue of increasing worker’s
reviewed after four year, still not
wage, buyers should take part.
before the election, he said. Many
factories will face challenges in Textile Today talked with several
Md. Shahidullah Azim
payment of salary to the workers garment manufacturers who
Vice-President, BGMEA
as they are facing difficulties in demanded buyer’s help in this
paying the salary even under the regard. They opined that they
“I have literally found out that existing wage structure. could continue their business
instead of investing millions smoothly if the buyers considered
Because, the inflow of volume of
of dollars on machinery, land the issue according to the retail
work orders from the international
infrastructure and lines – if I invest price and cut their profit a bit
retailers and brands has been
on my people, then it will provide or put the consumers in a bit
falling from the volatile economic
me better return. In addition, pressure for the betterment of the
condition of the world.
upskilling is more cost effective. poor garment workers.
For example, capacity expansion Md. Shahidullah Azim, Vice-
Md. Shahidullah Azim said, “The
need a massive investment at President of Bangladesh Garment
buyers will play the most crucial
once. While in upskilling people, Manufacturers and Exporters
role here since the owners' profit
you will need a fractional gradual Association (BGMEA) also said
and the workers' wages depend
expense. But output is more and after five years the salary of the
on the products' price. They have
sustainable,” he concluded. workers will be adjusted with
to increase the product prices.
formation of a separate wage
Mohammad Hatem, Executive- Otherwise, the industry cannot
board as it is written on the labor
President of Bangladesh Knitwear develop a sustainable solution to
law of the country.
Manufacturers and Exporters this issue.”
Association (BKMEA) said that He also said the five percent adjust
Government responsibility
we pay our workers as per their will happen with the existing
efficiency, but it is not practiced as salary of the workers every year. At this juncture, the government
a whole industry. As per the labour The salary is not automatically should take initiatives to reduce

16 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Cover Story

the cost of doing business and the country into developed nation situation and the dream to be a
accelerate exports. Which will by 2041. To make the dream developed nation may not come as
make the situation tolerable to successful, contribution of the reality. On the other hand, workers,
some extent. apparel industry is must. But if who get a minimum wage of 8000
the small factories and some Tk now, they also fall in more crisis
At the same time, it is the
mid-range factories cannot run they ever seen.
government's responsibility to
their business to cope with the
support the backward workers In this context, government
increased wage, it will impact
with low incomes. To improve their help is inevitable to sustain the
the whole industry a lot. Which
quality of life, food supply, medical industry. Industry owners are very
will be spread throughout the
services and other social services much worried about their future
country. So, it should be taken
should be ensured at subsidized and they opined that without
into consideration. Bangladesh’s
prices. This responsibility cannot be government help the apparel
economy, which is one of the
taken by the factory owners alone. industry, which sometimes called
fast growing economies in the
the golden goose of the country,
On the other hand, Bangladesh world, will fall in an embarrassing
cannot survive.
government has a dream to turn

Textile industry's green transition:


insights from the forefront of
mechanical recycling
Faujia Mushtari

The VDMA Textile Machinery Web talk, titled ‘Textile Association moderating the event.
Industry's Green Transition: Insights from the
Dr.-Ing. Georg Stegschuster, the first speaker, hails
forefront of mechanical recycling’ convened recently
from a background in chemical engineering and has
with two agenda included: ‘Improving Fiber Length –
dedicated eight years to the Institution of Textile and
Keys to Success of Mechanical Recycling’, presented
Technology in Augsburg.
by Dr.-Ing. Georg Stegschuster, Head of Recycling
Atelier at ITA Augsburg, and ‘TRUECYCLED: He shared insights into Augsburg's role in promoting
Complete solutions for mechanical textile recycling success in chemical recycling. He initiated his
from Trützschler’, presented by Dr. Bettina Temath, presentation by discussing ITA Augsburg.
Head of Global Marketing at Trützschler Group. Dr. Stegschuster then delved into the broader
context of textile recycling. He noted that only 1% of
used textiles are currently recycled within a closed
loop. Fast fashion, with its emphasis on producing
larger quantities of lower-quality used textiles, has
been a significant driver of textile waste.
Dr. Bettina Temath, the second speaker, shed light on
Trützschler, and stressed that customer demand for
recycled products has driven Trützschler to introduce
new textile solutions. They have launched a program
called ‘truecycled’, offering a holistic approach
to recycling. As part of the program, they have
collaborated with BALKAN, a Turkish company.
Trützschler's challenges in mechanical textile
recycling include addressing the shortening of fibers,
a higher content of short fibers, and the presence of
yarn and fabric particles.

The Q&A session was facilitated by Nicolai Strauch Dr. Temath highlighted that a well-coordinated
from the VDMA Textile Machinery Association, system is key to achieving success in their recycling
with Boris Abadjieff from the Textile Machinery efforts.

18 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Figure 1: Top 25 Innovation Masterminds from five zones with industry leaders, TTH judges, sponsors and Textile Today team.

Textile Talent Hunt 8.0


National Conference finds
101 Innovation Masterminds
Rahbar Hossain

Textile Today Innovation Hub organized the ‘TTH 8.0 attending the “Transformation to Innovation” session
National Conference- the Competition Day’ to select conducted by Eousup Novee Bablu, GM, Textile
101 potential Innovation Masterminds. The grand Today Innovation Hub.
conference was organized on 20 October at Council
In the National Competition, selected potential
Hall, IDEB, Dhaka.
Innovation Masterminds (IMs) will get 10 professional
Earlier, this Textile Talent Hunt (TTH) 2023-24 and technical skills training from Textile Today
competition – Presented by Centro and Powered Innovation Hub which is equivalent to BDT 30
by Archroma – was launched on 2nd August at Pan lacs. IMs will work on practical innovation projects
Pacific Sonargaon Hotel in Dhaka. at factories under the supervision of industry
and academic experts. Through this, IMs will be
101 students were selected from around 250 students
transformed into the most desired Innovation
through video audition, innovative idea audition and
Masterminds and will be ready to make innovations
MCQ exam of around 25 textile universities from all
in the industry for the next level of transformation.
over the country for the National Competition. The
best 25 got BDT 1.25 lacs award money at the event.
2000+ students directly participated in the TTH
Campus Drive and Seminar at 30+ campuses from all
over Bangladesh earlier.
Among 101 Innovation Masterminds, the 5 champions
from the five zones are- N. M. Azizur Rahman
from Bangladesh University of Textiles; Khalid
Zaman Mumit from Jashore University of Science
and Technology; Abir Hossain from Ahsanullah
University of Science and Technology; Mohammad
Asif from Mawlana Bhashani Science and Technology
University and Mohammad Ibrahim from Textile
Engineering College, Noakhali.
All the participants received certificates for Figure 2: Some sponsor representatives with event
guests at the event.

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 19


Figure 3: Some industry experts with two Black Belt holders - Figure 4: Some of the partners of TTH 8.0 with the guest of the
Shihab Rahaman (Left); Md. Mahmodul Hasan (Right) program.

All the selected 101 will be awarded Innovation Calendaring Mills Ltd said that the industry needs to
Black Belt upon the project completion. Innovation know demand precision. Ensuring quality is essential
Black Belt is an exclusive initiative of Textile Today and professionals need to have problem-solving
Innovation Hub for the textile and apparel industry skills. TTH journey is vital for students to gather
that helps to create professionals who go through knowledge and practical experiences on these three
256 hours of extensive Factory Skills Development mentioned concerns.
training and real hands-on problem-solving experience
Yamin Chowdhury, General Manager (Production),
in different particular areas of the Textile Industry.
Denimach Washing Ltd pointed out that to sustain
Bangladesh’s textile and garment industry is facing in the current challenges business needs to be
continuous transformation and new challenges. In competitive, also, attentiveness in every processing
this scenario, Textile Today Innovation Hub's Textile step is vital. STB Bleck Belt designed strategy will
Talent Hunt 8th season is functioning to bring out holistically guide both the participant and the project in
innovativeness as the new competitiveness for the a systematic problem-solving approach. For STB Black
industry – to overcome the current challenges. Belt my factory Denimach Washing is also benefiting.
A total of BDT 49 lacs for training, research and MD. Abdullah Al-Hadi, Asst. Manager – IE, Fashion
award money fund has been declared for the Forum Ltd, IDS Group – who has completed the
development of this Innovation Masterminds. Black Belt program – said how he benefited from
doing the Black Belt program. “This Black Belt
In the Panel Discussion on ‘Achieving Innovativeness’
program greatly benefitted me in my career and
the textile and apparel industry experts opined that
uplifted my confidence to take any challenge. Thanks
like all the previous Textile Talent Hunt competitions,
to Textile Today Innovation Hub.”
this TTH 8th Season shall surely contribute to
bridging the gap between industry and academy. Md. Rahat Ullah Rashed, Head of Technical Support,
It will bring more innovative solutions to explain Taiwan Persotex Corporation talked about process
and overcome existing challenges in the textile and optimization to get maximum output. Innovation
apparel industry – a core objective of the Textile Black Belt and TTH platform enriches and equips us.
Today Innovation Hub. For instance, a Lab to bulk project was implemented
and it got very good results.
Minhazul Hoque, Director, Fatullah Dyeing &

Figure 5: Around 250 students from 25 textile universities participated in the National Competition.

20 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Do you know the eco-impact
of a deep colored t-shirt?

DEEP DIVE 2.0


A complete system for
maximum coloration efficiency
with enhanced fastness,
and dramatically reduced use of
water, chemicals and energy

SAFE
®
CASE STUDY: Indonesia customer, Jet dyeing machine, 100% cotton knit, LR 6:1

EFFICIENT

-18% -31% -34% -17% -33%

The Archroma Way:


Safe, efficient, enhanced
IT’S OUR NATURE
www.archroma.com
TTH National Conference

Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today Innovation achieve the target. At least 50% retention we've to
Hub highlighted that “Most importantly TTH and make. And Innovation Masterminds have to take the
Innovation Black Belt will enlist students in the lead to reach the target.”
industry community.”
“I am very happy to be here. We
Engr. Md. Hasan Kajmir Mahmud, Director, South, are really expectant from our textile
West Composite Ltd pointed out, “TTH event will universities that there will come
give you industry exposure. Many universities future leaders. My company leads
conduct research programs. But none can fulfill in sustainability. How is it ensured?
industry demand. Only Textile Today Innovation Sustainability is ensured through
Hub through TTH and the Black Belt program has innovation and behind all this is the
been fulfilling industry demand by bridging the gap innovative persons who are passionate.
between academia and industry.” And TTH is the platform to create
In the second session, Tareq Amin congratulated passionate masterminds.”
students for participating and said, “TTH 8.0 is
special as it is directly linked with industry. Top 101
are entering into an exciting journey.” Syed Ismail
Country Director
Archroma Bangladesh Ltd
“Many factories are joining as
innovation partners. Partner factories
will be available for innovation circles. “Our $100bn target will be achieved
Innovation leaders will be groomed through your leadership. In recent years,
in this process. I'm also thanking our our textile universities and institutions
sponsor partners for their support. have increased greatly - which is hugely
Thus, innovativeness will be the next helping the industry. Textile engineers
competitiveness through this the industry and the sector is building BD's economic
will solve any kind of challenges.” growth. You’ve to be future leaders of the
industry. The past was production-centric.
But it’s sustainability and innovation.
This leader-making initiative is TTH. I am
Tareq Amin
thanking the Textile Today team. Without
Founder & CEO
innovation, our industry will be sick. That
Textile Today Innovation Hub
is why I think this National Conference will
create a difference."
Thanking all the participants Professor Dr. Engineer
Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro Vice Chancellor at BGMEA
University of Fashion and Technology said, “We
Engr. Shafiqur Rahman CIP,
thought of this TTH way back in 2008. It has now
become a national pride. Our dream was to take our President, ITET &
industry to the best level, with skilled manpower, and Managing Director, Hams Group
automation. I hope TTH will continue its successful
journey. You have to dream and make yourselves Eousup Novee Bablu, GM, Textile Today Innovation
capable to lead the industry.” Hub was the moderator of the event.

Centro will always At the conference Shihab Rahaman; a student


be involved in such of Garments Washing & Dyeing Dept., BGMEA
programs. University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT) and Md.
“Thanks, Textile Today Mahmodul Hasan, a student of Garments Washing
for taking us on its & Dyeing, Bangladesh University of Business and
incredible TTH journey.” Technology (BUBT) received STB Black Belt from
Textile Today Innovation Hub.
Sayedul Hassan
AGM-HR, Centro Tex Ltd TTH 8th Season’s sponsors are – Title Sponsor
Centro Tex Ltd.; Powered by Sponsor Archroma
Dr. Mohammad Abbas Uddin Shiyak, Assistant Bangladesh Ltd.; Platinum Sponsors Dysin Group
Professor, Department of Dyes and Chemical and Jay Chemical Industries Pvt. Ltd.; the Prize
Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, said, Money Sponsor is Apna Organics Private Limited;
“I am really pleased to be here. My demand is that the Sponsors are Sameet Dye Chem and Sota Ghar
we've to take the industry to reach the $100 billion Colour House; the Quality Partner is SGS Bangladesh
export target. Innovativeness is the only way to Ltd. and TexMeta is the Network Partner.

22 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


BEZAKTIV
Soaping Advisor
SAVING RESOURCES MADE EASY

In the dyeing of cotton using reactive dyes, the rinsing process consumes by far the most
water, energy and process time in order to achieve a good fastness level. Optimization of
the rinsing process is therefore most effective if focused on resource consumption and
process time. The BEZAKTIV Soaping Advisor calculation program provides a predictive
calculation of the fastness rating, which allows the optimum rinsing process to be de-
termined and subsequently used.

More about us at www.cht.com


Experts Views

Revolutionizing Bangladesh's green


garment industry: strategies for fair
prices and profitability (Part: 1)
Sheikh H M Mustafiz, Managing Director, Cute Dress Industry Ltd

Bangladesh, often referred to as fair pricing. The pursuit of and foremost, consumers and
the ‘textile capital of the world’, sustainability, which includes brands are increasingly valuing
boasts the world's largest green the use of eco-friendly materials ethical and sustainable practices,
readymade garment (RMG) and adherence to ethical labor driving a growing demand for
industry. These factories have practices, inevitably raises responsibly sourced garments.
shown remarkable commitment production costs. This challenge Green factories can leverage
to environmental sustainability becomes especially pronounced in this trend to their advantage by
and ethical practices. However, an industry known for its price- positioning themselves as pioneers
despite their noble efforts, many sensitive market. in sustainability.
green RMG factories face the
One of the primary challenges Moreover, innovative
challenge of securing fair prices
faced by green RMG factories is manufacturing technologies
from brands. This article explores
the need to balance sustainability and practices have made it
a comprehensive set of strategies
costs with the demand for fair possible to reduce the long-term
that these factories can employ to
pricing. The adoption of sustainable operational costs associated
not only gain fair prices but also
materials and practices often results with sustainability. Investments
boost profitability while continuing
in higher initial investments, which in modern machinery, energy-
their journey toward sustainability.
can strain a factory's financial efficient processes, and waste
Challenges and opportunities resources. This challenge can be reduction measures can lead to
daunting, particularly in an industry cost savings over time.
The green readymade garment
where cost competitiveness is
(RMG) industry in Bangladesh is Additionally, the push for
crucial for survival.
at a crossroads, grappling with transparency and ethical
the simultaneous challenges However, within these challenges sourcing is opening doors to
of sustaining ethical and lie opportunities for green partnerships with brands willing
environmentally responsible RMG factories to distinguish to pay a premium for responsibly
practices while ensuring themselves and thrive. First manufactured products.

Challenges & opportunities


Challenges Opportunities
» Pursuit of Sustainability » Increasing ethical & sustainable practices
» Raises production costs » Reduce the long-term operational costs
» Eco-friendly materials » Innovative manufacturing technologies & practices
» Demand for fair pricing 1. Modern machinery
» Higher initial investments
2. Energy-efficient processes
» Eco-friendly materials
3. Waste reduction measures
Experts Views

Collaborating with
these brands can
provide green RMG Green RMG
factories with a
competitive edge » Eco-friendly materials
and better pricing » Waste reduction strategies
opportunities. Sustainability Innovation » Cutting-edge technologies
While the green
RMG industry in
Bangladesh faces fabric waste, recycling and reusing Sustainability and innovation
the challenge of balancing materials, and optimizing resource are intertwined in green RMG
sustainability costs with fair utilization. By doing so, they not factories, setting them apart
pricing, it also has a unique only minimize their environmental as leaders in ethical and
opportunity to position itself as a impact but also enhance environmentally responsible
leader in ethical and sustainable cost-efficiency. manufacturing. Their embrace
manufacturing. By embracing of eco-friendly materials, waste
Perhaps most importantly, the
innovation, transparency, and reduction strategies, and cutting-
commitment to sustainability goes
strategic partnerships, these edge technologies not only
hand in hand with innovation.
factories can navigate the aligns with ethical values but also
Green RMG factories are at the
challenges and emerge as attracts brands willing to invest in
forefront of adopting cutting-
profitable and responsible players responsible sourcing, ultimately
edge technologies and processes
in the global market. benefiting both the factories and
that enable them to reduce their
Sustainability and innovation carbon footprint while maintaining the planet.

The green readymade garment high production standards. This Efficiency and productivity
(RMG) factories in Bangladesh are commitment to innovation not
Efficiency and productivity stand
characterized by their unwavering only benefits the environment but
as vital pillars in the journey of
commitment to sustainability, also positions them as leaders in
green readymade garment (RMG)
setting them apart in the global the industry.
factories in Bangladesh toward
textile industry. This commitment Furthermore, their dedication profitability and sustainability.
extends to various aspects of their to sustainability resonates with Recognizing that the textile
operations, from the materials brands that share similar values. industry operates in a highly
they use to their waste reduction Ethical and environmentally competitive environment,
strategies and overall sustainable conscious brands are increasingly these factories understand that
practices. seeking out green RMG factories efficiency is the key to their
One of the cornerstones of as partners. These factories continued success
sustainability in green RMG are seen as reliable sources for
One of the primary strategies
factories is the use of eco-friendly responsibly sourced products,
employed by green RMG factories
materials. These factories prioritize and this reputation attracts
is the investment in modern
the sourcing of textiles and fabrics brands willing to pay a premium
machinery and technology. These
that have a minimal environmental for garments produced in an
technological upgrades serve a
footprint. This includes materials environmentally friendly and
dual purpose: reducing operational
made from organic fibers, socially responsible manner.
recycled fabrics, and low-impact
dyes. By embracing these Efficiency & » Identify
materials, they not only reduce
their own ecological impact but
Productivity bottlenecks,
redundancies
also contribute to the broader » Minimize waste,
movement toward responsible improve resource
» Automated utilization
sourcing.
machines
Another key aspect of
sustainability in green RMG Lowering Enhance
Technological Efficiency
factories is their relentless focus on Upgrades Labor Costs
waste reduction. These factories
implement innovative techniques » Reduce labor
» Enhance output
to minimize waste throughout the
production process. This includes
efficient pattern cutting to reduce

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 25


Experts Views Association Update

costs and enhancing production This commitment to consistent processes, and rigorous quality
output. Automated machines not quality not only strengthens their control measures not only
only streamline the manufacturing reputation but also allows them reduce production costs but
process but also significantly to command better prices from also contribute to the factories'
reduce the need for manual labor, discerning brands. competitiveness in the global
thereby lowering labor costs. market. These strategies allow
Efficiency and productivity
them to offer high-quality,
Streamlined processes are equally improvements are not just cost-
responsibly sourced garments
crucial. Green RMG factories saving measures; they also
that can command better prices,
meticulously analyze their contribute to sustainability. By
ultimately benefiting both the
operations to identify bottlenecks, reducing resource consumption
factories and their partners.
redundancies, and areas where and waste generation, these
improvements can be made. By factories minimize their To be Continue...
optimizing the production process, environmental footprint, further
these factories minimize waste, aligning with their commitment to
Author
improve resource utilization, and responsible manufacturing.
enhance overall efficiency.
In summary, efficiency and
Quality control measures productivity are fundamental to
remain stringent in green RMG the profitability and sustainability
Sheikh H M Mustafiz
factories, ensuring that each of green RMG factories in Managing Director
garment produced meets the Bangladesh. Investments in Cute Dress Industry Ltd
highest standards of quality. modern machinery, streamlined

BGMEA seeks government policy support to


overcome challenges in apparel sector
Sazzadur Rahman

BGMEA has requested the government's policy Bangladeshi garment industry due to this impact.
support to overcome the challenges in the apparel
He said, due to the effect of Russia-Ukraine war,
sector. Faruque Hassan, President of BGMEA made
massive price inflation has been created in the
this demand to the government in a meeting with Dr.
United States and EU member countries. Demand for
Md. Khairuzzaman Mozumder, Finance Secretary at
apparel in major export markets such as EU and US
the Secretariat.
has declined. This is because consumers are giving
The meeting discussed issues related to the country's preference to daily necessities like food and fuel over
ready-made garment industry, its prospects and clothing. As a result, apparel exports to Europe and
vision for sustainable growth and development. the US have declined.
In the meeting, Faruque Hassan highlighted the In the meeting, Faruque Hassan emphasized the
deep impact of the Russia-Ukraine war on the need for government policy support to maintain
global economy and the challenges faced by the the competitive ability of the industry in the global
market by facing the challenges of this critical and
challenging situation of the industry.
He highlighted the increasing importance the
industry is placing on product diversification by
moving to non-cotton products including man-made
fiber-based garments.
Also, Faruque Hassan highlighted the industry's
commitment to environmentally sustainable
development, capacity building in specialized
recycling and the industry's efforts in circular
economy.
BGMEA Senior Vice President and Vice President
Rakibul Alam Chowdhury were in the delegation.
The BGMEA delegation also requested for easier
and faster services from the banking sector for the
Figure: BGMEA seeks government policy support to overcome
challenges in apparel sector. garment industry.

26 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Agents for Archroma Singapore Pte. Ltd.

SwissChroma Bangladesh Ltd.


Dhaka Office: AHN Tower (5th Floor), 13 Biponon C/A, Bir Uttam C.R. Dutta Road (Old Sonargaon Road), Dhaka
Chattogram Office: Sanmar Spring Vally, Zakir Hossain Road, Khulshi, Chattogram
E-Mail: [email protected]
Figure 1: Aleksandr Mantytsky, Russian Ambassador to Bangladesh.

Russian fashion market


looks for Bangladesh as
a reliable Sourcing Hub
BTT Interview

Bangladesh is a good and long- the ongoing Russia-Ukraine war. Russian-Bangladeshi relations is
standing partner of Russia in South However, both nations are putting the result of historical legacy and
Asia. Diplomatic relations between a lot of effort into improving the convergent approaches towards
the USSR and Bangladesh were trade situation. many burning issues in the current
established on January 25, 1972, volatile geopolitical scenario.
Recently Textile Today has
and have continued with Russia Economic cooperation is an
taken an exclusive interview with
being the successor state to important pillar in our bilateral ties
Aleksandr Mantytsky, Russian
the Soviet Union. A few months with Bangladesh being Russia’s
Ambassador to Bangladesh to
back Russia approved a list second largest trade partner in
discuss the prospects for the
of more than 30 friendly and South Asia after India.
development of bilateral relations as
neutral countries which includes
well as some other important issues. The Bilateral Intergovernmental
Bangladesh as the country’s banks
Commission on Trade, Economic,
and brokers will be allowed to Textile Today: Since Bangladesh's
Scientific and Technical
trade on the Russian currency as independence, Russia has been a
Cooperation is a useful platform
well as derivatives markets. close partner and ally and is now
for stakeholders from both sides
increasing investments here. How
In FY23, Bangladesh’s exports to to exchange views on broadening
can both countries grow this bond
the promising market of Russia and diversifying the scope of our
further for a prosperous future?
experienced a significant decline engagements. Next year there will
of 27.87 percent compared to the Aleksandr Mantytsky: The be the Commission’s 5th meeting.
previous year, primarily due to steady development of

28 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Person on the Cover

We have all the prerequisites for


the successful development of our
ties in a variety of spheres, namely
smooth political cooperation in
the absence of any unsettled
disputes and contradictions. Our
economic and trade relationship
is growing day by day, showing a
positive trend that gives us further
confidence in its consolidation.
Textile Today: How do you see the
economic growth of Bangladesh
and how do you evaluate the
contribution of the textile and Figure 2: Aleksandr Mantytsky shared his thoughts about the first nuclear power plant in
Bangladesh.
apparel industry to Bangladesh's
economy?
to grab a 10% share of the was approximately 1.4 billion.
Aleksandr Mantytsky: Over the global apparel market by 2025
In any case, we should be
recent years, the world has been announced by BGMEA President
optimistic, because the meaningful
witnessing rapid progress made Faruque Hassan sounds rather
political dialogue between our
by Bangladesh in various spheres realistic.
leadership based on constructive
seeking to become a developing
As for the exploration of approaches to the issues of
nation by 2026 and eventually a
such opportunities in the bilateral and multilateral trade
developed one by 2041.
Russian market, I would like to cooperation for the sake of our
Needless to say, the textile and attract attention to a number people leaves no doubt that the
apparel industry has always of specialized international existing temporary hurdles will be
been playing a pivotal role in the exhibitions and fairs held in our overcome. To this end, competent
economic growth of Bangladesh. country, including the Russian agencies from both sides are
Its clothing and RMG, globally Week of Textile Industry, in a discussion to find a proper
recognized for high quality, International Trade Fair 'Fashion solution to this problem.
durability and affordable prices, Industry', Child and Junior
As for the export and import
are the principal overseas trade Fashion Salon, etc. I believe that
structure, the key items of the
items, making up more than 80% the participation of interested
Russian export to Bangladesh are
of the country’s total exports Bangladeshi exporters in the said
machinery, equipment, vehicles,
which has established Bangladesh events will be instrumental in
metals and agricultural products
as the second largest apparel boosting bilateral trade interaction.
(wheat, fertilizers, legumes,
exporter by now. Besides being
Textile Today: Kindly shed light mustard, etc.), while your country
the key source of foreign currency
on how the import and export provides our market primarily
earnings (last year RMG trade
scenario of both countries can with textile products that, for sure,
recorded almost $47 billion
accelerate. needs to be diversified. Both sides
with a 10.27 growth rate despite
have huge untapped potentiality
COVID-19-related uncertainties), Aleksandr Mantytsky: As it was
of bilateral trade and economic
the textile industry has been mentioned, Russia and Bangladesh
cooperation in this regard.
contributing to job creation and have been traditionally enjoying
attracting investments from mutually beneficial trade and Textile Today: Bangladesh's
abroad as well. economic relations. The relevant textile and apparel industry is
statistics speak for themselves: the second largest in the world.
That is why it would not be
since 2019, the annual volume of What opportunities do you see
an exaggeration to say that
the bilateral trade has remained for the Russian governments
this vibrant sphere, which
above 2 billion USD and almost or companies to invest in
accounted for almost 10% of
reached an all-time high of 3 Bangladesh?
the GDP last fiscal year, is the
billion in 2021. A slight decrease
key driving force behind the Aleksandr Mantytsky: The
to 2.35 billion in 2022 was caused
impressive performance of the full potential of investment
by global economic hindrances
overall Bangladeshi economy. cooperation is yet to be realized.
emanating from illegal sanctions
With the efforts being made by The production of textiles and
imposed on Russia by the
the government and business RMG is a global trend. Today, a
collective West. According to
community to promote local large percentage of clothes sold
the latest Russian statistics, the
garments overseas, the target even in the most high-end stores
turnover for January- July 2023

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 29


Person on the Cover

is labeled “Made in Bangladesh”. particular, with Bangladesh. an NPP, we are supporting


But it used to reach the Russian Bangladesh in establishing a brand
At the same time, both the
market in rather small quantities. new sector of the economy.
governments and companies of
Now the situation is changing:
the two countries are adjusting Rooppur NPP helps to create
since 2022, many international
to the new reality. The competent thousands of workplaces for
brands decided to leave Russia.
agencies are elaborating on secure the local people, and dozens of
So, Russian businessmen are payment modalities evading the Bangladeshi companies provide
reorienting towards new suppliers, “toxic” currencies. Some progress their services and materials for
including those from Bangladesh. has already been made in this the construction works – and
Investments, both state and regard. The exploration of new we are not even speaking about
private, can amount to billions of transportation routes (for instance, the electricity itself. According
dollars. Creating joint ventures through the far eastern territories to the Minister of Science and
with Bangladeshi manufacturers of Russia) is underway as well. Technology, Rooppur NPP will
can leverage the strengths of both Probably, the time has come to serve as an impetus for the growth
countries in terms of technology, increase the frequency of cargo of the Northern regions increasing
expertise and market access. flights, among other possible GDP by 2%. I suppose this is an
incentives for bilateral trade. outstanding impact.
Not only in textile and apparel,
other industries like the production Textile Today: The first nuclear Textile Today: What is the
of pharmaceuticals in Bangladesh, power plant in Bangladesh is status of skills and resource
which could be supplied to Russia going to be functional shortly exchange programs between
is another important area of through Russian support. Could both countries? How Russia and
cooperation. The same goes for you please update me on the Bangladesh can create more of
the ICT and software industry. matter? What will be the impact/ such programs?
growth on our economy from this
The government of Bangladesh Aleksandr Mantytsky: The Russian
kind of investment?
has done a lot to improve the Government provides a number
investment climate. The initiative Aleksandr Mantytsky: The of scholarships to Bangladeshi
to establish 100 economic zones construction work at the Rooppur students every year and conducts
by 2030 is very instrumental NPP site is going on at a pace to all kinds of support programs,
in this regard. Every year we be envied. The first unit of the including through the Russian
witness the commissioning of power plant is going to start pilot House in Dhaka. This practice
new infrastructure projects – operation within the next year, as was established back in 1972,
Padma Bridge, HSIA Terminal 3, the construction works are almost right after Bangladesh gained
Karnaphuli Tunnel, Dhaka Elevated over. The work on the second independence.
Expressway. Legal base and unit is in full swing too – concrete
In the last academic year, the
market entry rules are being made works on the inner containment
number of scholarships allocated
more business-friendly. With such dome are finished, and the main
to Bangladeshi students amounted
rapid improvements, the increase circular pipeline has been welded
to 110, for the next academic year
in FDI is just a matter of time. ahead of schedule.
it has been increased to 124. In
Textile Today: What are the Rooppur Nuclear Power Plant total, more than 500 Bangladeshis
challenges in bilateral trade with will serve as an impetus for the are studying in Russia now. Among
Bangladesh? How these could be growth of Bangladesh’s industries the most popular education
removed? and ease energy crisis. It will also programs are economics, medicine
increase the country’s GDP by and ICT.
Aleksandr Mantytsky: The illegal
2%. Rooppur Nuclear Power Plant
unilateral sanctions imposed on It is worth mentioning that after
will serve as an impetus for the
Russia by the US and its allies graduation Bangladeshi students
growth of Bangladesh’s industries
caused a breach of the earlier choose to return to their home
and ease energy crisis. It will also
existing production and supply country. They hold important
increase the country’s GDP by 2%.
chains. A number of Russian banks positions across many sectors
(though, naturally, not all of them) Apart from that, more than 1000 in Bangladesh and contribute
came under financial restrictions Bangladeshi specialists are fully to national social and economic
that hindered transactions in educated and ready to begin development. They work as
US dollars and euros, including the operation on the NPP – all teachers, academics, businessmen,
the disconnection from SWIFT. with the help of the Russian Side. doctors and civil servants. At
The transit trade through the EU As President Vladimir Putin present, there are more than 5,000
countries remains on hold. This, of noted during his speech at the Bangladeshis with Russian degrees
course, created some problems for Graduation Ceremony on October around the world.
our trade with foreign partners, in 5, Russia is not merely building

30 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


®
APNA ORGANICS PVT.LTD
( AN ISO 9001:2015|ISO 14001:2015| OHSAS 45001:2018 CERTIFIED COMPANY )
LEADING SOLUTION PROVIDER FOR TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY

Anti-peeling Agent For Cotton And Blends:


LUDOX® – LP 1385

Features and Advantages:


• Improves the anti-pilling property of treated fabrics.
• Does not affect the handle much
• Works on all kinds of substrates, cotton, polyester, rayon, acrylic

Higg ID: 136822

HEAD OFFICE : BANGLADESH OFFICE:


101/102, Balashram , Tejpal Scheme Road No. 3, 3rd Floor, House No.37, GauselAzam Avenue,
Vile Parle (E), Mumbai - 400 057. INDIA. Sector 14, U ara, Dhaka-1230

Contact: [email protected] / [email protected]

“CONTRIBUTING TOWARDS A BETTER TOMORROW”.


In Focus

Why woven
garment items are
losing its ground
to the knitwear
Textile Today Report

Historically the woven garment items were The dominance of knitwear has been continuing in
dominating in the export of Bangladesh. But export and also in last fiscal year the knitwear was
in recent years the knitwear items have been the top performer.
dominating the country’s export especially during
Export scenario
and after the covid 19. That means knitwear items are
the top export items of the country now. In the first two months of the current fiscal year, the
knitwear also the top exporter of the country. For
But why the woven garment items are losing its
instance, in July August of the current fiscal year,
ground to the knitwear. Basically, Bangladesh’s
the earning from the ready-made garment (RMG)
garment business started with the woven items
was $7.99 billion registering 12.46 percent year on year
as primarily in the beginning of this business. The
growth, according to data from the Export Promotion
international clothing retailers and brands used to
Bureau (EPB).
place work orders in Bangladesh mainly for woven
shirts and trousers for sewing and cutting and Of the amount, $4.58 billion came from knitwear
making garment. shipment registering 17.02 percent year on year growth.
Woven garment items fetched $3.41 billion which grew by
6.86 percent year on year, the data also said.
Last fiscal in 2022-23, the earning from RMG
shipment was $46.99 billion with 10.27 percent year
on year growth. Of the amount, $25.73 billion was
earned from knitwear shipment which grew by 10.87
percent year on year, the data also said. During this
time, woven shipment grew by 9.56 percent year on
year to reach at $21.25 billion, the EPB data said.
In the current fiscal year, the total RMG export target
has been fixed at $52.27 billion of which $28.43
billion is fixed from knitwear and $23.84 billion from
woven garment, the data also said.
The data analysis shows that the knitwear items have
Figure: The woven garment items are losing its ground to the
been dominating in the country’s export and also in
knitwear. future the knitwear will dominate.
Reasons for dominance of knitwear in export
As a result, the country got an identity of cutting Although historically the woven was on the top of
and making of woven garment in competitive labor export list but over the years the knitwear turned to
costs. But over the years of four and half decades be the top export item. One of the major reasons for
the local garment makers started investment in higher knitwear export than the woven is lead time
backward integration to produce fabrics and yarn. and availability of raw materials in shorter time.

32 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


In Focus

For example, the international


clothing retailers and brands allow Historically the woven garment items were
45 to 60 days lead time instead dominating in the export of Bangladesh
of previous 90 days to 120 days
Now knitwear items have been dominating the country’s export
because of fierce competition
among the international retailers Lead time challenge for
and brands. The local garment woven items producers
exporters have been taking
the advantage of available raw Change in global
materials of the domestic markets. fashion and style woven garment knitwear items

Currently, the local spinners can


Availability of raw
supply nearly 90 percent of raw Climate change
materials in shorter time
materials for knit item but only
45 percent of raw materials of
woven items. As a result, the Climate change is another reason. In the western
woven garment exporters have to import fabrics world the duration of summer season is longer now
from other countries especially from China and India because of climate change. And also the magnitude
to manufacture the garment to re-export. The whole of cold reduced and the consumers like t shirts very
process is time consuming and expensive which much in such weather condition.
also affect the cost of production and lead time in The covid 19 impacts
shipment. So the garment makers like to make more
During the covid 19 time the use of knitwear items
knitwear items than the woven items as it takes less
increased significantly worldwide because of staying
cost and less lead time.
at home for a long time. The use of bed sheets,
Following such delay in lead time the woven makers t-shirts and towels increased a lot during the covid 19
are trying to reduce reliance on imported fabrics. time for which the demand for knitwear increased a lot.
For instance the import of woven fabrics declined
During the covid 19 time the offices were closed for
by 25.97 percent in the first seven months of this
a long time and the people did not go to the offices
calendar year, compared to the same period last
with wearing the formal dresses. So the demand was
year, as garment makers have brought down their
high and also the shipment of knitwear was also high
reliance on imported products because of an
in covid 19 time.
increase in local production.
Views from the industry insiders
International retailers and brands are hungry for
new fashion items as they want to establish 12 sales Faruque Hassan, President of Bangladesh Garment
seasons instead of the six or eight of the pre-pandemic Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA)
times owing to fierce competition in the business. said firstly the making of knitwear is easier than the
woven garment items and less investment is needed.
As a result, they want quick shipment of goods
So, many composite knitwear factories have been
and in many cases, they seek the goods through
established in the country now.
expensive air shipments instead of the normal
delivery route over sea. Secondly, the demand for woven garment items fell
globally as the demand for casual dresses increased
As a result, in the business behavior of international
worldwide due to changes in fashion. Weather
retailers and brands, the local garment suppliers,
change is a big factor for rising demand for knitwear
textile millers, weavers, spinners and knitters have also
items, Hassan said. The demand for sportswear made
changed their production and procurement behavior
from knit yarn is also rising worldwide, he said.
to match up.
Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Vice-President of Bangladesh
Another reason for higher shipment of knitwear
Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association
items than the woven is a big change in global
(BKMEA) also echoed the views of Hassan. Ehsan
fashion and style. Nowadays the people like more
also said after the covid 19 a lot of changes took
casual dresses than the formal dresses because of
place in fashion industry globally and the demand
changes in fashion. Now people even go to offices
for knitted items is in the rise. Consumers also prefer
with casual dresses like wearing a T-shirts which was
knitted items to woven because knit garment prices
not usual earlier.
are lower than the woven items, he added.
As a result, the demand for knitwear increased and
Industry insiders said more investment is needed for
the demand for woven garment items fell worldwide.
production of more woven garment items to grab
The office goers like light weighted garment than the
more global market share.
formal woven shirts and suits. As a result, the demand
for knitwear items has been growing worldwide.

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 33


Exports Updates

Apparel export increases 13%


in first quarter of FY23-24
Arif-Uz-Zaman

In the first quarter (July- sector, knitted garments worth the shipments of high-value
September) or three months of $6.76 billion and woven garments products have been on the rise, as
the current fiscal year 2023-24, worth $4.85 billion were exported. reflected in the export data.
goods worth $13.69 billion have During this period, the growth in
Value-added items helped in
been exported. This export is 9.51 the export of knitwear has been
getting better prices, while
percent higher than the same 19.70 percent and woven clothing
earnings from non-traditional and
period last year (July-September). is 4.97 percent.
new markets like Australia, Japan
During this period, apparel "Many factories have low export and Korea are also increasing,
export was $11.62 billion which is orders. Then how is exports Faruque Hassan said about an
13 percent more than the same increasing, I do not understand," ongoing transition.
period last year. Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Vice
Meanwhile, exports of leather and
President of Bangladesh Knitwear
The Export Promotion Bureau leather products, agricultural processed
Manufacturers and Exporters
(EPB) released this updated products, jute and jute products and
Association (BKMEA) said.
information on the export of home textiles have decreased.
goods on Sunday (October 1). However, Bangladesh Garment
Leather and leather products have
Manufacturers and Exporters
The total export earnings in the been the largest exports after
Association (BGMEA) President
July-September quarter of last ready-made garments so far, this
Faruque Hassan hailed the growth.
year was $12.50 billion. However, fiscal year, at $267.5 million. This
Despite a fall in imports by major
in the first month (July) of the export is 18.44 percent less than
markets, Bangladesh's RMG
current financial year, the growth the same period last year.
industry sustained this positive
in export income was 15.26 percent.
growth which is admirable. Apart from this, in the first
Overall merchandise exports have quarter, the export of jute and
"We are doing better compared
been on a positive trend so far in jute products decreased by 9.67
to other competitors because of
the current fiscal due to growth percent to $221.89 million from
our different initiatives, including
in readymade garments exports $245.65 million, home textile by
visits and exploring markets and
as usual. 85 percent of the export 46.39 percent to $189.5 million from
networking with them," he said.
earnings which is $11.62 billion $353.48 million and non-leather
came from the garment sector. BGMEA President said that footwear by 1 percent to $124.07
although apparel exports from million from $125.34 million.
Within the ready-made garments
Bangladesh decreased in quantity,

85% exports came from the RMG in Export in Jul-Sept’ 23-24


July-September 23-24 ($2.07bn, $11.62bn)
Overall Export: $13.69bn
Growth: 13.07%

$2.07bn
Apparel: $11.62bn
Apparel Export Fetched Growth: 13.07%
13.07% Growth
Home Textile: $189.5mn
Growth: -46.39%
Knit Export $6.76bn
$11.62bn
with 19.70% Growth
Jute & Jute Products: $221.9mn

Apparel Export Woven Export $4.85bn


Other Export with 4.97% Growth Leather Products: $267.5mn
Growth: -18.44%

34 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Innovation in
Textile Chemicals
for a Sustainable society

Surface Science is
our core technology
having more than
82 years history in
chemicals from
Japan

finish
first

1 scour soap 3

dye

2
Experts Views

Quiet luxury and


its implications for
the global south
Sabbir Rahman Khan

In the contemporary realm


of fashion, where flashy and
logo-heavy dresses steal the
spotlight, a silent revolution
is silently emerging, carrying
immense promise for the Global
South. It is called ‘quiet luxury’,
fostering a wind of change in an
industry that has long grappled
with environmental and ethical
criticism. Quiet luxury stands as
a testament to the supremacy
of quality, craftsmanship, and
timeless design while avoiding
the tone of extravagance and
excessive consumption.
It seeks to craft garments and
accessories that not only captivate
with their aesthetic charm but also
stand as symbols of sustainability,
ethics, and enduring excellence. Figure: Quiet luxury stands as a testament to the supremacy of quality, craftsmanship,
This new model is quite contrary and timeless design while avoiding the tone of extravagance and excessive consumption.
to the prevailing fast fashion
had increased by 32 percent in comes the rise of social media
movement that has reigned the
the same year. which is enabling fashion-
apparel industry for decades.
conscious consumers to discover
In South-Asia, notably in India, this
The estimated global market quiet luxury brands.
market is growing quite fast. In
size for quiet luxury was around
2022, the quiet luxury market in Perhaps one of the most one-of-
$100 billion in 2022. By 2025,
India was estimated to be worth a-kind prospects of quiet luxury
the market is expected to grow
$10 billion. Indian industry-insiders for the Global South is its potential
to $150 billion. Asia-pacific is
are expecting this trend to be to stimulate sustainable fashion
considered the largest market,
growing to $15 billion by 2025. practices. Often, nations in this
followed by North America and
In South-Asia, there are a few part of the world bear the brunt
Europe . The rising trend for this
underlying factors responsible of the negative consequences
market is evident by different
for the growth of the quiet luxury of fast fashion, from exploitative
study findings. For instance, in
market. First and foremost is labor practices to environmental
2023, stores around the globe
the increasing number of upper- damage. Embracing quiet luxury
purchased products bearing a logo
middle class segment who are implies a paradigm shift towards
22 percent less than that of the
inclined to having dresses ensuring production methods that embrace
period in last year. Interestingly,
quality and craftsmanship. Then both sustainability and ethics.
the volume of products with logo

36 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Experts Views

Global market size for quiet luxury Expected to grow


was around $100bn in 2022 to $150bn by 2025

In South-Asia, notably
in India, this market is
growing quite fast

Quiet luxury unfolds the supply chain at the forefront. In with positive changes for the
possibility of local materials and the Global South, where labor Global South. By embracing
craftsmanship, offering a gateway exploitation remains a rampant quality, artistry, sustainability,
to small-scale artisans and issue, the adoption of these ethical and ethical production practices,
producers in the Global South. This principles holds the potential for quiet luxury possesses the
not only steers economic growth transformative change. With the potential to compliment local
but also serves as a promoter of advent of quiet luxury, the Global artisans, spearhead the cause of
traditional skills and wisdom that South can enforce improved sustainable fashion, and redefine
form the foundation of numerous working conditions for its labor the very essence of luxury within
rural communities. Across various force. This movement carries the the Global South. As consumers
corners of the Global South, potential to improve the lives worldwide become increasingly
a treasure trove of artisanal of garment workers and their conscious of their choices, an
craftsmanship awaits discovery. families, sowing the seeds of social unprecedented opportunity
As it exclusively focuses on quality equity and economic stability. emerges for the Global South to
and artistry, quiet luxury brands seize a leading role in shaping
Quiet luxury simultaneously
strive to explore the potential to the future of the fashion industry.
challenges and recasts the so-
harness this pool of indigenous By championing the principles
called pattern of luxury, often
talent, giving local artisans the backed by quiet luxury, values that
bound to western benchmarks.
opportunities for meaningful harmonize with philosophies of
It casts the spotlight on quality,
livelihoods and equitable wages. equity, sustainability, and cultural
sustainability, and cultural
authenticity, this movement could
Furthermore, the unique feature authenticity, extending a fresh
catalyze a transformation within
of quiet luxury is that it focuses perspective on the essence of
the fashion landscape of the
on unique, handcrafted creations luxury within the Global South.
Global South, ushering a positive
over mass-produced fashion Moreover, local designers and
change that touches the lives of
items. This approach befits the brands that embrace quiet
countless indigenous artisans.
artisans of the Global South, luxury possess the capacity to
enabling them to shine on a global tap into the mixture of cultural
stage, showcasing their skills and diversity characterizing the Global
Author
cultural heritage. It stands as a South. They can craft products
much-needed departure from the that resonate with a global
long-practiced ubiquitous, factory- audience while preserving and
driven fashion that has made promoting their distinctive cultural
traditional craftsmanship declined heritage. This not only fosters a
in many regions. profound sense of pride but also
supplements the perception of
At the core of the quiet
luxury goods originating from the
luxury movement lies a strong
Global South. Sabbir Rahman Khan
commitment to ethical production
practices. Brands adhering to this In a nutshell, quiet luxury Knowledge management
ethos place fairness in wages, isn't just another short-lived communications, and
secure working conditions, fashion trend; it represents a advocacy professional
and transparency within the profound movement stuffed

38 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Advertorial

Sustainable Indigo Dyeing solution


from Prashant West Point Machinery
Pvt Ltd (Prashant Group), India
Prashant Group story

Prashant Group is one of the industry leaders in the Prashant Group is different from others: Why?
textile market and has been consistently showing its
According to Ms Amoli Shah, the organization is a
class and quality for over four decades. The Private
one-stop solution for complete weaving preparatory
Limited organization was established in 1975 and is
machinery. Everything starting from sectional
presently one of the fastest-growing Textile Machine
warping, direct warper, sizing machine for spun and
manufacturing companies. Besides its quality,
filament, various creels, specializing machine for
Prashant Group collaborate with leading European
technical textiles warping, Heavy duty warper with
and American companies that offer unique product
specialized creel for PP and HDPE tapes, motorised
portfolio enhancement and updated technology.
and manual beam handling systems, inspection and
The clear vision of the company’s Director, Ms Amoli packaging machine, and beam storage system is a
Shah, on behalf of Prashant Group, is to contribute part of Prashant’s portfolio.
enough to the Global textile weaving industry. They
aim to ensure that this sector reaches the epitome of
productivity, cost-efficiency, and quality. To achieve
this, Prashant Group is providing equipment and
machine with world-class and futuristic technology
at reasonable rates. The vast and incredibly
proficient Prashant Group works relentlessly to
achieve their goals, keeping quality intact.

Ms Shah and her associates believe that Prashant


Group is different from several other competitors in
the same industry. Firstly, continuous R&D is integral
part of the group to develop and provide cutting
edge technology to the industry, there is a lot of
automation going on, which means that they believe
in technology advancement and innovativeness.
If you take the example of Indigo Dyeing range,
As per Ms Amoli Shah, “The greatest source of Prashant group is offering Sustainable Dyeing
strength and inspiration of Prashant lies in its solution which is a need of the hour. Conventional
manpower. The professional and dedicated staff is system of dyeing prevailing for more than three
focused on design innovation, operational excellence, decades in market could not deliver the advantages
and above all customer satisfaction. The three words of sustainable dyeing with competitive price. In
that define Prashant Group are customer centric, current scenario of 3 E (Energy, Environment and
growth oriented and innovative.” Economy), technology needs to be upgraded.
During the interview, Ms Amoli Shah showed an In order to enable customer to cope with this
incredibly positive approach when asked about situation, 'PRASHANT WESTPOINT' has successfully
its performance, considering the current capacity, supplied innovative ‘Indigo Dyeing using Nitrogen
Prashant Group has reached a 100% utilisation. Technology' which offers most Ecological and

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 39


Advertorial News & Analysis

the machine
When asked about their sales and service pattern,
which is also the USP of Prashant Group, Ms Amoli
Shah says, “We have our sales team and regional
salespeople at different locations in India. We also
export to over 50 countries through our wide spread
agent networks. We have more than 80 service
engineers all over India, and we have regional
engineers at most of the location and with most of
the time customer get service on the same day may
be in few hours. We have established own Service
team in Bangladesh to address growing business in
Bangladesh.”
cost-effective way of Slasher dyeing for Denim Presently, the vision of Prashant Group is to further
preparation. increase their production capability and win major
Key benefits of this latest technology are: market share around the World. They want to keep
innovating new technologies but focus on promoting
1. Achieving up to 4 % Shade depth, by using just
their existing products in a better way.
4 Dye troughs as against 8-10 Dye troughs in the
conventional system Finally, they want to make everything more user-
friendly and try to reduce labour cost further. With
2. Improved dyeing quality with better dye fixation
their present acquisitions and workforce, Prashant
3. Saving of dyes & chemicals up to 20% Group will surely be better positioned in the global
4. Reduction in Water consumption up to 60% textile machinery market five years down the line.
Find more on us: [email protected];
5. Space and utility saving up to 15% [email protected];
6. Reduced stoppage waste due to shorter length of www.prashantgroup.com

EU’s eye on Bangladesh labor


law reform to consider GSP plus
Arif Uz Zaman

European Union (EU) ambassador to Bangladesh, law reforms and workers’ rights must be ensured.
Charles Whiteley, said that discussions are going
Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi was present as the
on in the EU and the European Commission on
chief guest at the seminar titled ‘Unlocking Trade and
Bangladesh’s GSP plus facility. EU will stand by
Investment for European Companies in Bangladesh’.
Bangladesh for advantageous position in bilateral
trade. However, to ensure this benefit and to increase Charles Whiteley said, “Labor law must be reformed
direct investment from Europe to Bangladesh, labor to maintain GSP benefits beyond 2026 and increase
European direct investment. In the last eight
years, about $5 billion of direct investment from
Europe came to Bangladesh. Europe will work with
Bangladesh to increase this investment in the future.”
Bangladesh has fulfilled several conditions and the
position of Bangladesh in fulfilling the conditions for
receiving GSP Plus is satisfactory, he added.
In the speech of the chief guest, Commerce Minister
Tipu Munshi urged the businessmen of European
Union countries to invest more in Bangladesh and
said, "You should not be cheated by investing in
Bangladesh. Although there are various problems
Figure: Charles Whiteley, European Union (EU) ambassador to in Bangladesh, there are immense potentials and
Bangladesh. opportunities for investment.”

40 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Tested Means Trusted
SGS has the expertise to help manufacturers and suppliers of FCM achieve compliance with markets around
the globe. Our technical experts have extensive experience of testing materials and articles for many markets.
We offer the full range of FCM testing, including migration tests, along with expert advice on emerging
regulations, compliance issues and documentation review. Our experience can ensure your products meet
the appropriate territorial regulations for food contact materials and help pave the way for compliance. Food
Contact Materials (FCM) services from SGS ensure compliance with requirements for sale and distribution in
global markets.

Food contact materials (FCM) are materials and articles intended to come into contact with food. FCM
products and materials include:

FCM have the potential to adversely alter the taste, odor and/or color of foods. There is also the risk that
hazardous constituents such as heavy metals and additives may migrate into the food from the FCM, thereby
endangering human health. Legislation governing the safety of FCM is enforced around the world. In recent
years, more rigorous restrictions have been promulgated, with stricter mechanisms being established by
major trading nations to eliminate hidden dangers and strengthen.

+88 01755 607 022


[email protected]
https://www.sgs.com
Presents

October 2023

October 2023
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 16, Issue 10 l Pages 43 to 68

“Global fashion
brands unequivocally
rely on us”
- Md. Fazlee Shamim Ehsan
Vice President, BKMEA
Managing Director, Fatullah Apparels Ltd.

Job shuffling: a Rose Sweaters Ltd. SAC launches MCAP to


leader-building aims to become a reduce CO2 emissions
strategy for leader in the global by textile and apparel
business sweater market industry
FT Editorial

Government support can help


smaller factories to survive
and sustain their business
Only a stimulus package or something similar from the government can help
the SMEs survive and sustain their business. And if the SMEs survive, the
apparel industry of Bangladesh will surely thrive in the coming years
Abdullah Hil Rakib

The apparel industry of apparel export destination. of our industry was built. So, it's
Bangladesh has been going Bangladesh's apparel export to the of utmost importance that we
through challenging times after EU declined by 12.69 percent in provide these small and medium
the Covid-19 pandemic. The the first half of 2023, totaling Euro size garment factories with
country's apparel export to the USA, 9.06 billion compared to Euro 10.37 support right at this moment.
our single largest export destination billion in the same period of 2022.
The world will come to normalcy
as a country, declined by as high as
This decline can be attributed also sooner or later. The apparel orders
21.77 percent in January to August
to a reduction in clothing demand will also rebound. But if we cannot
of the FY 2023-24.
due to high inflation and silent recession support these SMEs to exist in this
The US imported $5.18 billion affecting the EU's 27 countries. tumultuous time now, our vision of
worth of apparel from Bangladesh achieving the $100 billion apparel
Though Bangladesh's apparel export
during these first eight months of export by 2030 will be a pipe dream.
to the EU in July-September period
2023, compared to $6.62 billion
of the fiscal 2023-24 registered an The time is tough for all factories,
during the same period in 2022,
11.47 percent growth compared to irrespective of whether they are
according to the data published by
the same period of the previous big, medium-sized or small. But
the Office of Textiles and Apparel
fiscal year, according to the Export big players sometimes can face
(Otexa) under the US Department
Promotion Bureau (EPB), we cannot the storm, which destroys the
of Commerce.
count on it to be a promising sign. medium and blows away the
It should be mentioned here that smaller factories; as apparel is a
In the last fiscal we celebrated
Bangladesh is the third-largest capital-intensive business.
Eid-ul-Azha in July, and during the
apparel exporting country to the
long holidays for Eid our apparel We have seen how the government
US after China and Vietnam. All
export always stays low. So, the stimulus package during the
the top apparel import sources of
comparison between the exports pandemic helped the factories
the US, including China, Vietnam,
of July-September 2022 and to stand and stay in business.
India and Indonesia have also
July-September 2023 is not a real The present situation is no less
shown significant negative growth
reflection of the state of affairs. grievous than the pandemic.
in the January-August 2023 period.
There is little hope that the Therefore, only a stimulus package
According to Otexa data, the overall
situation will change in the near or something similar from the
apparel import of the US from the
future, because of the world's government can help the SMEs
world has declined by 22.77 percent
current economic instability. The survive and sustain their business.
in this period of the year, compared
Russia-Ukraine War does not seem And if the SMEs survive, the
to the same period of 2022.
to be ending soon. Moreover, the apparel industry of Bangladesh will
The reason for this steep slide in recent Israel-Palestine situation surely thrive in the coming years.
the US apparel import is obvious will only add salt to this economic
– the inflation that hit ordinary wound from which the entire world
US citizens hard, who have been has been suffering.
focusing on purchasing essentials
The small and medium size apparel Author
by cutting down on their budget
factories of Bangladesh have been Abdullah Hil Rakib
for new clothes.
facing the most difficulty sailing
We also have no good news on through this hard time. We should Managing Director
the European Union front as well, not forget that these SMEs are the Team Group
which as a region is our largest foundation upon which the citadel

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 45


October 2023

An initiative of Textile Today

45 FT Editorial 58 News &


Government support can help Analysis
The Team smaller factories to survive and
sustain their business
Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO 47-48 Experts Views
Job shuffling: a leader-building
Chittagong port increases
strategy for business
‘cut off time’ for loading
Amzad Hossain Monir RMG containers
Head of Business Development 50-53 Factory Insight
Rose Sweaters Ltd. aims to
become a leader in the global
sweater market
Rahbar Hossain XdotO collaborates with
Hayleys Fabric PLC towards
Business Development 54 Textile Award
a smart connected factory

60-61 Sustainability
SN Abdullah Today
Nurnahar Akter
Arif-uz-Zaman
Research & Development 12 industrial units receive
Bangabandhu Industrial Award

Sanjoy Kumar Saha 54 Investment SAC launches MCAP to


Engagement & Communication Update reduce CO2 emissions by
textile and apparel industry

Yeasin Mia Trade & Biz


62
Graphic Design
S Korean investors seek
more business-friendly
environment in Bangladesh
Chinese company to invest
Zakir Hossain $23.15m in Uttara EPZ
Executive, Web & IT 63 Investment
Update
56-57 Exclusive Epic Group setting up its
Ashraful Alam
Interview largest facility in Odisha
Cinematographer
64-66 Advertorial
Md. Emon
Video Editor

Md. Ariful Islam “Global fashion brands Forge ahead, set sail
Md. Masudur Rahman unequivocally rely on us” for success
Abir Basak
Editorial Contributions

Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 999 748
E. [email protected]
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
Experts Views

Job shuffling: a
leader-building
strategy for business
Nazmut Tarek, Business Development Manager, NAHL Group

Job shuffling is a common practice can make a big difference here. to their professional growth and
in today's cutthroat job market. Shuffling your employees for make them more versatile in the
It offers employees the chance a limited period of time can workplace. Job shuffling involves
to develop a variety of skills and enable cross-training and proper exposing employees to various
responsibilities while still working knowledge at different cross- processes, promoting learning by
for the same organization. It functions. It also helps future doing, and breaking silos between
has been used in a variety of leaders develop empathy and a departments. It also encourages
contexts, including retail, banking, broader understanding of various employees to think outside the box,
software engineering, tourism, stakeholders' needs and concerns. come up with creative solutions, and
and technology. Researchers have feel more connected to their work.
Wear many hats
found that job shuffling is beneficial
Control favoritism
for organizations, resulting People who wear many hats
in improved job involvement, experience a variety of roles and Job shuffles prevent favoritism and
organizational commitment, firm responsibilities. It enables them ensure fairness in the workplace.
and job learning, motivation, job to adapt quickly to different By regularly rotating employees,
satisfaction, and skill development. situations and find solutions to organizations can minimize the
Nearly every corporate environment problems. Employees can become potential for favoritism to develop.
in the world has recognized the future leaders by developing When employees stay in the same
value of job shuffling. adaptability and problem-solving position for an extended period of
skills. While wearing many hats time, there is a risk that they may
Retailers are increasingly adopting
can be beneficial, there are also form close relationships with their
shuffled roles, which involve
downsides, including increased vendors and suppliers, which can
rotating their teams every 3–4
stress, burnout, and a lack of focus lead to preferential treatment or
years. The industries we work in
on core responsibilities. To avoid bias in decision-making processes.
must constantly adapt to new ideas
these negative effects, employers
and thoughts brought by these Reduce employee turnover
should ensure that employees'
teams. The retailer implemented its Job shuffles can reduce employee
responsibilities are clearly defined
changes for five reasons: turnover by offering new
and aligned with their job roles.
Cross training challenges and opportunities for
Develop new skill
growth within the organization.
Customers often seek expert
A new role often requires Employees are more willing to
advice prior to making sales
employees to learn new skills and stay with an organization if they
decisions. A marketer who has
expand their knowledge. This believe they have the opportunity
the right product knowledge
continuous learning can contribute to grow their careers and enhance

Cross Wear Many Develop Control Reduce Employee


Training Hats New Skill Favoritism Turnnover
Figure 1: The retailer implemented its changes for five reasons

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 47


Experts Views

or develop new skills. Being


pigeonholed can limit employees’
career growth, and sometimes a
change of scenery is necessary to
break out of a rut.

Kills Afraid of
Afraid of challenges
creativity challenges Employees in long-term roles
may fear new challenges due to
factors such as a comfort zone,
lack of confidence, fear of failure,
loss of relevance, and resistance to
change. The comfort zone creates
a sense of security, while fear of
Pigeon holed Improvement opportu- Develop fixed failure can discourage employees
and burnout nities are overlooked mentality from seeking new opportunities.
The loss of relevance can
Figure 2: After playing a similar role for a long time, there are some negative
aspects you should take into account. make employees feel outdated
in a rapidly changing work
their abilities. Some employees the box and explore new ideas. environment.
might be difficult to keep. Why? When individuals are confined to
Challenges of job shuffle
Employees, particularly millennials, specific roles and responsibilities
place a high value on job growth without room for flexibility or Job shuffles are not appropriate
and career advancement, with 87% exploration, it can stifle their for all industries or positions in
anticipating it. The good news is that creative thinking and limit their your organization. Some roles
employees may be able to advance ability to generate innovative ideas. require years of training and hard
without leaving their current Fixed roles often limit individuals to work. You should be very careful
company if job shuffling is a regular a specific set of skills or expertise. about making any changes that
practice in your organization. This can result in a lack of diverse might have a negative outcome
perspectives and ideas. instead of a positive one. Trying
For working on a similar types of
to mold "gatherers to hunters",
role for long time Improvement opportunities are
"artists to intellectuals", or "doers
When job shuffling is globally overlooked
to leaders" often results in a big
implemented, we see a different When working in a similar role for mess and a waste of valuable
scenario among our work force a long time, it is easy to overlook time, as opposed to filling the role
and management. Working in a improvement opportunities. correctly from the start.
similar role might give you some Over time, people may become
Conclusion
expertise. In the long run, however, comfortable with their roles and
this can lead to stagnation. After may not feel motivated to try new Job shuffles can boost creativity,
playing a similar role for a long time, things. They often lead people to improve employee motivation
there are some negative aspects believe that their abilities are innate and job satisfaction, engage
you should take into account. and unchangeable, which can limit employees, help them learn
their willingness to try new things new skills, and give positions
Develop fixed mentality
and take on new challenges. across the company more depth.
When an employee works in a Identifying the right people for
similar role for a long time, they Pigeon holed and burnout
the right roles and providing them
develop a fixed mentality. They Pigeonholing refers to the situation with the necessary training and
can’t adapt to new environments where an employee is stuck in the support should be the company's
and new challenges. They may same role for an extended period long-term strategy. Before
interpret input as criticism and of time without any opportunities implementing a job shuffle, it is
avoid productive conflicts. This for growth or advancement. This crucial to weigh its advantages
can lead to stagnation in the can lead to feelings of stagnation, and disadvantages.
workplace and a decrease in frustration, and ultimately burnout.
job satisfaction. As a result, When an employee
employees can become
Author
is pigeonholed,
disengaged and lack motivation. they may feel
Nazmut Tarek
Kills creativity trapped and
unable to explore Business Development Manager
Fixed roles can kill creativity by new challenges NAHL Group
limiting the ability to think outside

48 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


SOUTH ASIA
DIGITAL POWER
BUSINESS DEPARTMENT
Together for a Green Bangladesh

   

 
€„  † ‡ ˆ    

           

 
  
‰‚Š‹‡­ ‰‚Š‹‡­
­ŒŒ ­ŒŒŽ‘
Ž‘Œ­‡ Œƒ
ƒƒ  ­‡Ž‘ 
Ž‘ 
   Œ   Œ‡‡’

   


   
   

    €‚
 ­ ­ƒ   ­  €
Factory Insight

Rose Sweaters Ltd. aims


to become a leader in the
global sweater market
Factory Tales Team

Sweater is a promising segment of by the Bangladesh Garment Acrylic, etc. While Textile Today
the Bangladesh apparel industry. Manufacturers and Exporters Factory Tales Team visited Rose
Bangladesh has nearly 400 units Association. Sweaters Ltd. Md. Nur-Uz-Zaman
to produce sweaters. Sweater Mia, DGM Merchandising, Rose
The sweater export earnings
exports climbed 39.25 per cent Sweaters Ltd. said, "Yarn sourcing
represented 13.23 per cent of the
year-on-year to $5.64 billion in is the most challenging part
total garment export value of
the Fiscal Year 2021-2022 which as well as main quality part of
$42.61 billion in 2021-22.
was $4.05 billion in 2020-21, sweater manufacturing. We are
according to data from the Export In order to raise their share in sourcing yarn from abroad and
Promotion Bureau compiled the global sweater market - also from our country. We have
worth more than $100 billion our own office in China and India
- local entrepreneurs are putting which gives us more strength in
Location their great effort in terms of

Near Gazipur Bypass


investment and quality product
development. Rose Sweaters
“ We try our best to in-house
the yarn before our target
Ltd. is one of the leading sweater time of manufacturing
Establishment exporting companies known for to get maximum time for
its huge capacity for sweater better quality output. We
2001 manufacturing, professional are dealing with most
attitude, product diversification famous and renowned brand
Capacity and sustainable practices in the right now and they have also
production processes. nominated yarn supplier for
0.5 Million pc
Since its establishment in 2001, their desired quality,"
this manufacturing group
Number of always remains at the forefront
Machines of sustainable manufacturing
practices with their available
700+ Jacquard
cutting-edge technologies and
machine sustainable raw materials.
Rose Sweaters Ltd. uses
Brands sustainable raw materials like
Md. Nur-Uz-Zaman Mia
DGM Merchandising
IZOD, M&S, Ben Lenzing Ecovera Viscose Yarn,
Organic Cotton Yarn, BCI Cotton, Rose Sweaters Ltd.
Sharman, Calvin Klein,
CMiA Cotton, CIC Cotton,
Tommy Hilfiger etc
Recycled Polyester, Recycled
Rose Sweaters Ltd.
Rose Sweater, founded in 2000, is a progressive textile company specializing in 21st-century textile products.
We serve millions of customers annually, collaborating with 20+ buyers in Europe, America, and the Middle East.
Our dynamic management and employee programs set industry standards.

We prioritize people and the planet, ensuring a safe, healthy workplace. We use sustainable materials and
efficient production methods, treating water through DETOX certified ETP. Committed to social and technical
compliance, we actively engage in tree plantation to offset carbon emissions. Our premises feature 24/7 medical
facilities, childcare centers, and support for the physically challenged.

At a Glance Our Valuable Clients


Factory Area 2,89,750.85 sq. ft

Man power 3,100 Person

Jacquard Machine `881 Sets

Winding Machine 22sets

Washing Section 36 Sets

Sewing Machine 337 Sets

Iron Machine 98 Sets

Generator 8 Sets

Steam Boiler 4 Sets

Air Compressor 6 Sets

Online UPS 8 Sets

Sub Station 3 Sets We are Certified by


LT Panel/PFI 11 Sets

Fire Pump/Submersible Pump 6 Sets

Other Machineries 34 Sets

Our Monthly Production Capacity is 5,80,000 pcs

Factory Address: Head Office


Vogra, By- pass, Bishaw Road, Joydevpur, Gazipur Flat#8, House#531, Lane#11, DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka-1206

Phone Fax E-Mail Web


+88 02 8415816, +88 02 8410096 +88 02 8854373 [email protected] www.resesweater.com
Factory Insight

terms of yarn sourcing." "We have 700+ Jacquard 3-5 years for their pre-education
machines, mostly we are depending and also they have a child-care
Almost 50 % of their required yarn
on the Stoll machine which has a unit. Rose is continuing a program
is sourced locally . "Our local yarn
better build quality and output. We for women's empowerment.
suppliers are doing very well. We
have a daily capacity of 18 thousand
can submit sample in between 7-10 Currently, 24 disabled workers
piece garments and monthly
days when we get yarn from local are working in Rose and M&S
capacity of around 0.5 million for
suppliers but in case of foreign is their partner in this program.
average-type sweater garments,"
yarn it takes almost 20/25 days to And the 3 brilliant students from
Md. Mobarak Hossain said.
collect sample yarn," Md. Nur-Uz- their workers’ children is getting
Zaman Mia said. Rose Sweaters Ltd. is planning to scholarship, TESCO is their partner
increase their production capacity in this program.


and currently working for 0%
You can say Rose Sweaters In the environmental aspect,
garments wastage in manufacturing
Ltd. is one of the finest they have ETP, WTP and for
process to make the system more
sweater companies in energy saving, they have used
efficient and productive.
Bangladesh. We have also condensing system boiler,
servomotors, inverter AC, canopy


some social engagement
Bangladesh's share is system generator etc to use less
and our target is to make
growing in the global energy and more efficiency and
sustainable business in a
market and value- productivity.
sustainable way."
added sweater product
They are heading towards
is capturing the market
another Green building in some
more and more as China
2 years and the building plan has
is leaving the market for
already passed the design and
international politics and
now planning for the project to
sanctions. Now it’s our
be established. In that building,
time to explore more
they will use more advanced
Samar Sen Saha of these value-added
technology that is good for the
General Manager garments and making a
environment and we will set up
HR (Admin & Compliance) skilled workforce for the
zero discharge ETP also.
Rose Sweaters Ltd. future betterment of our
swteater manufaturing Probir Kumar Saha, Chairman,
Rose Sweaters Ltd. is now companies ," Rose Sweaters Ltd. shared his plan
working with famous brands with for upcoming 10 years.
a wide range of products. They
are working with M&S, CK,DKNY,,
TESCO, IZOD, Tommy Hilfiger,
“ We have started our
journey back in 2001 and
Ben Sharman and other renowned in 2010 we started our
brands in the world. They are automation journey. Now
manufacturing sustainable and Md. Mobarak Hossain we are doing very well.
value-added products such Order from China is slowly
Production Director
as: long cardigan with 80% moving to Bangladesh
Rose Sweaters Ltd.
ecovero viscose and 20% nylon, and we have a plan for
acrylic-based products, t-shirt further expansion of our
type sweaters and many other Samar Sen Saha, General Manager, sweater business. In next
fashionable items where 30-35% HR (Admin & Compliance), Rose two years our capacity
production capacity is allocated Sweaters Ltd. said, "You can say will be doubled and we
for M&S! They are mainly dealing Rose Sweaters Ltd. is one of already got the approval
with ladies items and other value- the finest sweater companies in for expansion."
added products. Bangladesh. We have also some
Talking with Factory Tales Team social engagement and our target
Md. Mobarak Hossain, Production is to make sustainable business in
Director (PD), Rose Sweaters a sustainable way."
Ltd. described machineries Rose Sweaters Ltd. is committed
& technologies those Rose to continue their social
Sweaters Ltd. is using in the responsibility with their brands.
manufacturing process as well as They have a school for the Probir Kumar Saha
production capacity. workers' children aged between Chairman, Rose Sweaters Ltd.

52 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Association Update Factory Insight

"Last month I was in USA and many cold countries because of on this segment. From the very
famous brand like Ben Sharman, climate change, driving down the beginning of its journey Rose
Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger demand for thick sweaters and Swaeters Ltd. has taken some
showed very interest in working pushing up the consumption of incredible initiatives from all
with us. So, we want to expand lightweight sweaters. aspects like sustainable yarn
our project and sweater business sourcing practices, using modern
Bangladesh has a lot of
will continue more in Bangladesh," machineries, maintaining proper
opportunities and scopes to
Probir Kumar Saha said. compliances etc. to make their
reveal in the global sweater
business very much sustainable
In the past, western consumers market. It is high time to take
from all angle. If the other
used to wear sweaters only during the country's sweater business
manufacturers can do the same
the winter season but now they to the next dimension as there
as Rose Sweaters Ltd. did, we can
wear lightweight sweaters all year is a huge demand of the itmes.
say that sweater manufacturing
round as a fashion item. Besides, Like Rose Sweaters Ltd. other
industry of Bangladesh has a
the temperature has gone up in apparel exporters should focus
great prospect in coming future .

BGMEA wants duty-free


garment exports to UK till 2032
Tanvir Hossain

BGMEA president Faruque countries of the world to curb the


Hassan has requested to extend abnormal inflation caused by the
the existing tariff structure in the increase in fuel prices have reduced
new export plan of the United the disposable income of the people.
Kingdom for developing countries. It is affecting the market.”
He made this request in a written
Apart from this, sometime will be
letter to British High Commissioner
required to prepare ourselves by
Sarah Cook recently appointed to
realigning proper investments and
Bangladesh.
facilities, the letter said.
The United Kingdom has recently
Apart from the request for
created a new trade scheme
extension of time, the letter also Figure: BGMEA wants duty-free garment
for developing countries or the exports to UK till 2032.
sought clarification on some other
Developing Countries Trading
aspects of the scheme meant for success. Currently, there are 202
Scheme (DCTS). This plan is not
least developed countries. The LEED-certified eco-friendly factories
different from the previous system.
extended framework of the scheme in the country, of which 73 have
The tariff structure under which
states that two-thirds of the products achieved LEED Platinum certificate.
developing countries currently
will be given duty-free facility, but
export goods to the UK will remain Recently, top officials of various
how that will be determined and how
in place until 2029. That is, the global brands in the apparel sector
BGMEA will get that information, the
garments made in Bangladesh can visited Bangladesh. BGMEA's
letter asked.
be exported under the existing initiatives continue to ensure
tariff structure or without duty. BGMEA also wanted to know the welfare of workers and the
in detail about the differences protection of the environment.
BGMAE President Faruque Hassan
between the new plan and the Besides, the Bangladesh
said in the letter, “I would like to
GSP, especially in terms of border government has formed a
repeat the previous request and
management and security system, minimum wage board for workers.
say that the period of transition
how the new plan will work.
should be extended till 2032.” The UK market is Bangladesh's
In the letter, BGMEA also said third largest garment export
As the reason for this, he said,
that there have been several destination. Bangladesh exported
“Due to the epidemic, our garment
British investments in the ready- garments worth $5.02 billion to
industry and the global fashion
made garment industry, which the UK in the fiscal year 2022-23,
industry have been severely affected.
are operating business operations which is 11.78 percent higher than
The measures taken in different
in Bangladesh with considerable the previous fiscal year.

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 53


Te x t i l e A w a r d Investment Update

12 industrial units receive


Bangabandhu Industrial Award
Tanvir Hossain

Bangladesh government awarded Alam were present as special


'Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib guests at the function.
Industrial Award-2022' to 12
In the large industries category,
industrial units in six categories for
Runner Automobiles Ltd secured
their outstanding contribution in
the first place, followed by Zaber
the industrial sector.
& Zubair Fabrics Ltd and BSRM
President Mohammed Steels Ltd.
Shahabuddin handed over
Nita Company Ltd secured first
golden crests, prize money and
position in medium-scale industries
certificates to the representatives
category, while Noman Terry Towel
of the organizations at a Figure: 12 industrial units receive
Mills Ltd ranked second. Bangabandhu Industrial Award.
function at the Osmani Memorial
Auditorium in the city on 3 Winners in the small-scale micro-industries category and
October. industries category are Hazrat Shamsunnahar Textile Mills in the
Amanat Shah Spinning Mills cottage industries category.
Agriculture Minister Muhammad
Ltd in first position, Basumati
Abdur Razzaque, State Minister for In the hi-tech industries category,
Distribution Ltd in second and
industries Kamal Ahmed Majumder Walton Hi-Tech Industries Ltd
Techno Media Ltd in third.
and President of Federation gained the first place and Super
of Bangladesh Chambers of Green Genesis Engineering Star Electrical Accessories Ltd
Commerce and Industry Mahbubul Ltd has been selected in the gained the second place.

Chinese company to invest


$23.15m in Uttara EPZ
Yeasin Miah

The Chinese company, Bangladesh $23.15 million. Bangladesh Boyang Textile Co.
Boyang Textile Co Ltd, is set to has set ambitious production
For this, the Bangladesh Export
establish a textile and home textile targets, aiming to manufacture an
Processing Zones Authority
manufacturing venture within the impressive 50 million meters of
(BEPZA) officially entered into an
Uttara Export Processing Zone, Linen/Cotton Woven and denim
agreement with the company at
with a substantial investment of fabrics annually.
the BEPZA Complex in Dhaka.
Additionally, they plan to produce
The signing ceremony took place
3 million pieces of home textiles,
in the presence of Major General
including pillowcases, bed sheets,
Abul Kalam Mohammad Ziaur
and tablecloths.
Rahman, the Executive Chairman of
BEPZA, as stated in a press release. The agreement was formally
signed by Ali Reza Mazid,
The initiative by Bangladesh
representing BEPZA as the
Boyang Textile Co is poised
member responsible for
to create employment
Investment Promotion, and
opportunities for approximately
Peng Liu, the Chairman of
1,993 Bangladeshi nationals,
Bangladesh Boyang Textile Co
contributing to the country's
Ltd, representing their respective
Figure: Chinese company to invest economic growth.
$23.15m in Uttara EPZ. organizations.

54 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Sustainable Solutions For
Garments Washing Industry
Exclusive Interview

Md. Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Vice President, BKMEA and Managing Director, Fatullah Apparels Ltd.

“Global fashion brands


unequivocally rely on us”
BTT Interview

Md. Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Vice and the sector as a whole has Fazlee Shamim Ehsan: You have
President, Bangladesh Knitwear achieved great success in terms of rightly said, that in our garment
Manufacturers and Exporters capability and high-end knitwear. industry's history, we have not
Association (BKMEA) and CEO, I am deeply involved in this sector faced such multifaceted challenges
Fatullah Apparels Ltd. is an iconic – as for the last 25 years, I have on all fronts. We are operating
leader in Bangladesh’s knitwear sector. been running one of the country’s at 20% to 30% capacity due to
pioneering knit composite a lack of orders. And medium to
Fazlee Shamim Ehsan entered the
factories – Fatullah Apparels Ltd. small factories are facing hard
apparel industry in 1998 after his
I think that in the future, sky is the times to survive. But I think this
graduation from the NRI Institutes,
limit as our global knitwear market will pass and soon order scenario
Bangalore.
share is not that big. will bounce back. If you ask me
Recently, Textile Today conducted why? I will say that clothing is a
We have great prospects in going
an interview with Md. Fazlee basic necessity and consumers
further to be the ultimate global
Shamim Ehsan. Here is a glimpse are bound to buy more once
leader in knitwear manufacturing.
of the discussion for our readers. the situation normalizes. We are
As our knitwear is not
Textile Today: You are a respected already seeing that recession and
manufacturing high-end items like
leader in Bangladesh’s knitwear inflation are coming down in the
technical wear or a very limited
sector. And the knitwear sector major Western markets. Over time
number of factories are producing
has been playing a backbone this will normalize and fashion
outerwear, manmade fiber (MMF).
role. Kindly share the future way sales will bounce back.
Overall, we have a big scope.
forward for the sector. Kindly On top of that, the trend of
Textile Today: How the sector
share your perspective. moving sourcing away from
is handling the current order
Fazlee Shamim Ehsan: China is still hot – so like last year
depression and other challenges?
Bangladesh’s knitwear sector we will see an influx of orders
And what can be the way out of this?
has crossed a long journey that were supposed to source

56 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Exclusive Interview

from China. On the other hand, not only our knitwear sector but apparel from recycled yarn.
Bangladesh is the most trusted the whole textile and apparel
Textile Today: How is your
and safest readymade garment industry. I urge the govt. to solve
factory contributing in terms of
(RMG) sourcing country. Global this critically important issue and
sustainability? How the Green
fashion brands unequivocally rely overhaul all the laws to up-to-date
Certification is giving you a return
on us. With both these reasons and make it RMG sector friendly.
in terms of profitability?
combined, we will see a bright
Textile Today: Kindly share Fatullah
future ahead. Fazlee Shamim Ehsan: I am
Apparels Ltd.'s green journey - as
very happy to share that in
Textile Today: From the it obtained the highest score in
terms of profitability – the LEED
association's point of view, how the world by a knitwear factory in
certification is giving more return
BKMEA is supporting its medium LEED certification.
than my expectation. At the same
and small factories to survive in
Fazlee Shamim Ehsan: I started time, it is environmentally friendly.
this difficult situation.
Fatullah Apparels Ltd. back in 1997.
Most importantly, in terms of
Fazlee Shamim Ehsan: I would say As my family was in the backward
energy saving, being a LEED
that in this tough time, big to small linkage textile sector I came into
Platinum Certified factory, Fatullah
factories – everybody is finding it the forward industry with the
Apparel requires less electricity –
really tough. From the association vision to export top-notch apparel.
around 300KWh.
standpoint, BKMEA is working
In this journey, when Fatullah
jointly with the government at As you know I have installed
Apparels was a 6-line factory –
the policy level to give breathing rooftop solar panels – to produce
back in 2002, I got involved in
space for everybody for the next sustainable energy – which is
BGMEA and BKMEA – meaning
6 months. Like rescheduling their providing around 100KWh. And by
my business time was reduced. At
existing loans, or disbursing the 2025, we have a plan to completely
that time, I changed my outlook
cash incentives to the factories at phase out national grid electricity.
on volume-centric growth. Instead,
the earliest. Easing the customs Textile Today: What kind of
I focused on value-addition,
and export-related hassles – these innovation is driving Fatullah
fashionable items and high-end
kinds of policy help will certainly Apparel forward?
product manufacturing – which
aid our knitwear factories.
yielded better profit. Fazlee Shamim Ehsan: As we
Textile Today: What kind of export all know the Bangladesh RMG
After the Rana Plaza incident, we
hassle the sector is facing? From sector suffers from a lack of
were inspired to make a new Green
the association's perspective – innovation in productivity and
factory. Then through this journey,
what initiatives you are taking to other aspects. For that, we are one
Fatullah Apparels Ltd. became a
solve these issues? of the pioneers in the country to
LEED Platinum Certified factory
Fazlee Shamim Ehsan: Here two with a score of 97 out of 110 points. integrate automation to increase
things are happening. First of all The factory complies with all codes productivity.
National Board of Revenue (NBR) of conduct of compliance. Most On top of it, innovation in
lacks conviction on the country’s importantly, my workers enjoy many reducing wastage is a game
highest export-earning sector. extra facilities than other factories changer in our industry – as
Which is very sad and they must such as high wages. these innovative approaches will
grow their trust and conviction increase our profitability and
It was my dream that my factory
toward the sector. business sustainability. Alongside,
would become one of the best
Corruption in NBR is also a eco-friendly factories in the world I have an innovation design and
headache – which greatly hampers and accordingly I set it up in a development team to enhance
our business people. planned way. product diversification.

On top of it, there are some Textile Today: Kindly share Textile Today: What are the future
impractical and ancient laws Fatullah Apparel's product plans of Fatullah Apparel?
that still exist – and NBR officials diversity. Fazlee Shamim Ehsan: In terms of
enforcing us to oblige decade-old expansion – considering the global
Fazlee Shamim Ehsan: As I
laws with the ill intention of under- turmoil facts – we do not have any
mentioned earlier, we prefer
table negotiation. These hinder investment plan in the near future.
value-added apparel. So, we make
the export-oriented apparel sector. But to continue our automation
outerwear, hoodies, sportswear,
But, nowadays, junior and corrupt legacy – we are continuing our
jackets, basketball jerseys,
officials implement these rules for investment there on a regular basis.
bicycling pants, ladies' nightwear
their personal gain.
and kids outerwear, etc. On a sustainability note, we have a
To put it in a nutshell, these plan to invest in waterless dyeing
As part of sustainable fashion
obstacles are greatly damaging technology by 2025.
manufacturing, we make a lot of

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 57


News & Analysis

Chittagong port increases ‘cut off


time’ for loading RMG containers
Arif-uz-zaman

Exporters or shipping companies The Chittagong Port Authority different parts of the country to
can bring in ready-made garments has taken this decision after a the private inland container depot
to the port yard 24 hours before meeting with a delegation of of Chittagong. After loading these
the specified ship is scheduled to BGMEA, so that all export-oriented goods in the container, they are
leave the port. Earlier there was a consignments can be shipped. taken to the hook point (from
rule to complete all the loading or where the container is picked up)
Chittagong Port Authority's
shipping process 48 hours before. at the port yard as per the ship's
circular mentions that following the
schedule.
application of BGMEA, this ‘cut of
time’ of ships has been relaxed only A time limit is fixed so that no
in the case of export containers of export cargo is left behind on the
ready-made garment products. ship leaving the port. Many times,
due to shortage of containers or
In addition, in certain cases, port
various problems there is delay in
authorities have allowed RMG
loading the goods at the inland
export containers to be loaded
depot of Chittagong.
up to six hours before the vessel
leaves the port. This decision will Then the ship would miss the
be effective from October 1 to container arriving late at the port.
February 29, 2024. By relaxing the ‘cut off time’, the
risk of missing shipments of RMG
Figure: Chittagong port increases ‘cut off All products exported through
goods will be greatly reduced.
time’ for loading RMG containers. Chittagong port are brought from

XdotO collaborates with Hayleys Fabric


PLC towards a smart connected factory
Sayed Abdullah

Recently, XdotO Concepts


collaborated with Hayleys Fabric
PLC towards a Smart Connected
Factory: "Hayleys Fabrics PLC
Smart Connected Factory: Smart
Shopfloor Solution: Finishing
Section." This transformative
journey, focuses on revolutionizing
the finishing section through
its Smart shopfloor solution, to
embrace cutting-edge smart
manufacturing technologies and Figure: XdotO collaborates with Hayleys Fabric PLC towards a smart connected factory.
digitalization processes.
a world-class fabric manufacturer Manager- Planning Chaminda
Besides, this will enhance
with a high degree of innovative Kottegoda- Senior Manager
productivity, streamline
capabilities with its own Brand, INNO. participated in the kickoff ceremony.
operations, and ensure top-notch
quality throughout manufacturing. From Hayleys Fabrics PLC From the XdotO Concepts Team
Athula Jansz– General Manager- Anupama Silva, Dishan John,
Hayleys Fabric PLC, a pioneer in
Production, Mahesh Perera- Hishan Wickramasinghe, Achini
weft knit fabric manufacture in
General Manager- Engineering Randeniya, Hasini Lelwala, and
Sri Lanka, commenced operations
Chinthaka Wanasinghe- General Ishan Sumanasekara were present.
in 1992. Presently, recognized as

58 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


MADE IN ITALY

NEW INNOVATION FOR YOUR


TOTAL TEXTILE WASHING SOLUTION

     
    

LOW
LIQUOR
RATIO

20% LESS
TIME

COMPACT
MACHINE



EASIER LOAD
UNLOAD

LESS TIME

LESS COST

  


    ƒƒ ‚ ­
    „ƒ †

   ­ ­€­€­ ‚  ‚  


  ‚€€­   ‚  
Figure: SAC launches MCAP to reduce CO2 emissions by textile and apparel industry.

SAC launches MCAP to


reduce CO2 emissions by
textile and apparel industry
Nurnahar Akter Tania

The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), a global Joyce Tsoi, Director of Collective Action Programs,
coalition has unveiled the Manufacturer Climate SAC said, “Through our Decarbonization Program,
Action Program (MCAP) during the 2023 SAC we co-create solutions and foster collaborations
Annual Meeting held in Massachusetts. necessary for systemic change within global supply
chains, recognizing that addressing this challenge
SAC comprised over 280 stakeholders including
requires that no single entity can tackle this
retailers, brands, manufacturers, governments,
challenge alone.”
academics, and non-profit partners.
MCAP represents a key initiative, uniting
In collaboration with industry giants NIKE and
manufacturers globally to accelerate action towards
Target Corporation, SAC has introduced MCAP as an
science-aligned emissions targets, significantly
important element of its Decarbonization Program,
reducing global CO2 emissions at scale. By partnering
aimed at galvanizing support and propelling the
with industry leaders and offering scalable solutions,
textile and apparel industry towards significant
we can empower our industry to confront emission
reductions in CO2 emissions, which are urgently
reductions and instigate the change we need to
required.
support low-carbon transition, she added.
Regarding this, Amina Razvi, CEO, SAC said,
Notably, MCAP does not include measurements for
“The textile and apparel industry is responsible
Scope 3 emissions, as these often pose obstacles for
for a substantial portion of global greenhouse
manufacturers when it comes to setting science-aligned
gas emissions. MCAP's mission is to empower
targets. By initially focusing on Scope 1 and 2 emissions,
manufacturers, both SAC members and non-
the program aims to offer manufacturers a manageable
members, to measure emissions, set science-aligned
entry point for their decarbonization efforts.
targets for Scope 1 and 2 emissions, and accelerate
their decarbonization efforts.” This program is expected to empower manufacturers
to reduce energy consumption, realize cost savings,
The textile and apparel sector is facing an imminent
and meet the environmental expectations of their
imperative to collectively reduce global CO2
customers.
emissions by 45% by 2030, based on the 2010
baseline, with the ultimate goal of achieving net-zero MCAP will take a pragmatic approach, providing a
emissions by 2050. stepwise process to build manufacturers’ capability

60 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

to accelerate target setting, and comprises four core Engagement Program and the Supplier Climate
elements. Those are: Action Program (SCAP), which was co-developed by
NIKE and its suppliers and in consultation with World
1. Manufacturers set, validate, and disclose company-
Resource Institute (WRI).
wide science-aligned emission reduction goals,
recognizing this as a fundamental step toward a MCAP is open to both SAC members and non-
sustainable future. members, in a concerted effort to accelerate the
number of manufacturers with science-aligned
2. Manufacturers receive recommendations and
targets. The program meticulously integrates
training on developing climate risk assessments for
key management tools into the program,
their operations, including physical and transition
tailored specifically to meet the unique needs of
risks, documenting these risks to bridge connections
manufacturers.
with value chain partners, including brands.
These tools include guidance on measuring
3. Manufacturers receive guidance for developing
emissions, assessing risk, benchmarking
their decarbonization plans, responding to the
performance, and leveraging these insights to inform
industry’s growing call for transparency and enabling
strategic planning.
effective allocation of investments and resources.
By establishing these fundamental building blocks,
4. Fostering a culture of transparency and
MCAP equips manufacturers with the essential
accountability, MCAP encourages manufacturers to
resources they need to develop effective plans and
annually disclose their progress and share reports
accelerate meaningful climate change actions.
publicly. This commitment to openness will ensure
accountability within organizations and nurture a Noel Kinder, Chief Sustainability Officer, at NIKE, Inc,
collective culture of growth and innovation. said, “At our size and scale, we have a responsibility
to drive impact. With a challenge like climate change,
These four elements form the core of MCAP,
we know we can’t do it alone. NIKE’s SCAP was designed
empowering manufacturers to take substantive actions
to help suppliers take a leadership role in addressing their
in reducing emissions to combat climate change,
climate risk. Working with SAC and Target to develop the
improving operational efficiency and growth, and further
MCAP program is the next step in scaling impact across
advancing sustainability throughout the industry.
NIKE’s supply chain and the industry.”
MCAP evolved from both Target’s Supplier

All Kinds Of Offset Printing & 100% Export Oriented


Garments Accessories Manufacturer

+88 01713 453 422


House No- 6/2, Road No-2,
+88 01817 001 208
Block-B, Dhorengartek,
Nishat Nagar, Turag
[email protected]
Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh.
www.fairadbd.com
Tra d e & B i z

S Korean investors seek more business-


friendly environment in Bangladesh
Korean companies will continue to invest in the garment
sector if the country diversifies its export items
S. Hossain

South Korean investors in manufacturing and companies to continue investing in the garment
assembling industries are encountering substantial sector, suggesting the need for Bangladesh to
challenges while conducting business in Bangladesh. diversify its export items.
They are struggling for high customs duties imposed
The ambassador also observed that Bangladesh
on raw materials and intermediate goods which is
predominantly exports cotton-based garments,
impacting their operations in the country.
with less than 15 percent consisting of man-made or
This issue come out while South Korean Ambassador synthetic garments, while the global market trend is
to Bangladesh, Park Young-sik was addressing the opposite.
during a seminar titled "Korean Investors’ CSR
He encouraged cooperation between garment
Activities and Business Outlooks," about challenges
companies from both countries to facilitate the
faced by Korean companies. The seminar held at the
export of man-made or synthetic garments, stressing
Inter Continental Hotel in the capital on 10 October.
the need for significant capital and advanced
Ambassador Park Young-sik noted, "Samsung, technology in this sector.
engaged in the manufacturing of consumer
Park Young-sik also stated on optimism about
electronic goods, including mobile phones, and
ongoing infrastructure projects in Bangladesh,
Hyundai, involved in car assembly, particularly face
expecting them to contribute significantly to the
difficulties due to the elevated customs duties on
country's infrastructure development.
raw materials and intermediate goods. Additionally,
issues like mobile phone smuggling and an influx of “The world market is exactly the opposite. Increasing
second-hand cars have compounded their challenges." the export of man-made or synthetic garments
requires huge capital and advanced technology.
He pointed out the importance of the Bangladesh
Here is the room for the garment companies of both
government's attention to bolstering the foundation and
countries to cooperate each other,” he stressed.
enhancing the productivity of the manufacturing sector.
According to data from the Bangladesh Investment
Park Young-sik highlighted the positive impact of
Development Authority (BIDA), there are 454
these companies on the domestic job market, saying,
registered Korean industrial units in Bangladesh.
"Samsung manufactures consumer electronic goods,
Of these, 198 units are fully Korean, set to invest
including mobile phones, while Hyundai cars are
approximately $286 million and generate an
being assembled at Bangabandhu Hi-Tech Park from
estimated 75,062 jobs. Additionally, 256 units are
this year, creating high-quality job opportunities
joint ventures, with planned investments of $6.59
through domestic production."
billion and expected employment opportunities for
Also, he expressed the intention of Korean 82,802 people across various sectors.

» Total 454 registered Korean industrial units in Bangladesh

» 256 units are joint ventures

» 198 units are fully Korean

» 39 % increase in bilateral trade between the two


nations in 2022 compared to the previous year

» S Korean investors are struggling for high customs


duties imposed on raw materials and intermediate goods

62 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Investment Update

Epic Group
setting up its
largest facility
in Odisha Going Green will
Hasan Mia create PROFIT,
save PLANET &
cared for PEOPLE

Ananta Ahmed
Int’l. Green Building Expert, USGBC Faculty
LEED AP BD+C, LEED AP EB O+M, LEED AP ID+C,
LEED AP HOMES & LEED AP ND
Principal LEED Consultant and
MD, 360 Total Solution Limited

Figure: Epic Group setting up its largest facility in Odisha. Courtesy: Collected

Epic Group, one of the leading was later called off due to Covid-19

321+
apparel manufacturers based pandemic and later it was planning
in Hong Kong and renowned to invest in MP.
for serving some of the world’s
In a separate development, the
leading brands, is poised to
company also announced that its
strengthen foreign direct
planned state-of-the-art factory
investment in Odisha. Trimetro
Garments India, a subsidiary of
in Jordan is all set to commence Project Running
operations very soon, and this
the Group, is planning to invest
partnership will undoubtedly in 101+ Companies
Rs.376.85 crore ($45 million)
contribute to shared success with
for establishing its apparel
the Ad-Dulayl Industrial Zone and
manufacturing facility in the
with its esteemed customers.
Khurda district.
For over decades, Epic Group has 
The project is likely to generate
employment opportunities for
been a key player in the apparel
industry – first as a major textiles

7,050 people. This state-of-the-art
apparel manufacturing facility in
trading house, then as a leader  
in sourcing quality fabrics, and
Khurda district, will be the largest
since 2005 as a state-of-the-art
facility within the Epic Group.
manufacturing company with
Epic Group was in the process to facilities in Bangladesh, Jordan,
invest in India since the last four and Ethiopia. Our evolution
and half years. Earlier, it selected speaks to our core principle – to
Ranchi (Jharkhand). The project relentlessly pursue better. H # 3/1 (1st Floor), Road # 8
Dhanmondi, Dhaka 1205
Mob/WA: + 88 01747910939
E-mail: [email protected]
Advertorial

Forge ahead, set


sail for success
Fong's Story

CHTC Fong's sincerely invites Group will thoroughly display perfectly solve the problems of
customers from all over the world the latest textile dyeing and color creases and edge curling
to visit ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022 finishing equipment of the Group's and meet the specifications of
Textile Machinery Exhibition brands of FONG’S , GOLLER and finished fabrics. The unique design
MONFNONGS at this exhibition. of inner plaiter and fabric chamber
From 19 to 23 November 2023,
In addition to textile dyeing and adapt to the smooth running of
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022 will be
finishing equipment, the Group different kinds of fabrics. Besides,
held at the Shanghai National
will also showcase the stainless- it has a larger loading capacity
Convention and Exhibition Center.
steel castings of Tycon Alloy at the and low liquor ratio, saving energy
CHTC Fong’s will present its
exhibition. and reducing consumption while
latest textile dyeing and finishing
improving efficiency, and it also
equipment and innovative Innovation drives development,
provides simple design, easy
technologies at booth H5C07, with technology leads the times. CHTC
operation, easy maintenance, and
a total booth area of 504 m2. Fong's Group is fully committed
stable performance.
to scientific and technological
innovation, actively responds The major advantages are:
to the national call for energy
1. High effective main pump
conservation and emission
design.
reduction, and innovates based on
2. Fix nozzle gap, standard
customer needs.
ф140mm
We welcome customers from all
3. Smooth inner plaiter
over the world to visit and give
feedbacks, coming up with better 4. Manual VL variable loading
dyeing and finishing solutions regulator
together. Let’s set sail and create 5. Individual internal stainless
We have been working hard the future with CHTC Fong's steel lifting roller
for our dreams for 60 years. Group! 6. Single service tank with direct
60 years have passed since the steam heating
SOFTWIN
foundation of CHTC Fong’s Group.
High Temperature Overflow 7. Double fill and double drain
In the past 60 years, the Group
has gone through innumerous Dyeing Machine 8. Effective unloading device
hardships, overcome countless (patented design, patent
CHTC FONG’S SOFTWIN High
obstacles, and has always been number ZL201520998735.8 )
Temperature Overflow Dyeing
committed to promoting the with plaiter
Machine is newly designed, the
textile dyeing and finishing industry tension of fabric running path 9. Vertical heat exchanger
to move forward in the direction is reasonably controlled. It can 10. Lint collector
of intelligence, digitalisation, and
11. Working platform
green environmental protection. In
12. FC68 program controller
the future, the Group will continue
to sharpen its tools and continue ECOWIN
to build a well-known international High Temperature Synthetic Fabric
brand of textile dyeing and finishing Dyeing Machine
machinery.
CHTC FONG’S ECOWIN High
Adhering to the motto of Temperature Synthetic Fabric
“Confidence, Synergy, Change, Dyeing Machine is newly designed
Accomplishment”, CHTC Fong’s which Knitted polyester fabrics,

64 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Advertorial

especially products with high (Patented,patent number 2. Contains more fabric contents
spandex content, are more and ZL201520998735.8) than conventional drum
more favored by consumers 13. FC68 program controller washers
because of their high added 3. Multi-power spraying with
GOLLER OXIDATOR MODUL
value and excellent wearing adjustable spray angle
performance. However, the dyeing High-efficiency Washing Box
4. High bath turnover rate for
process of this kind of fabric is
GOLLER is committed to excellent washing efficiency
difficult, and the surface of the
continuous research and 5. Auto-cleaning filter and
fabric is sensitive, and it is easy
development of new open-width squeezer
to defect such as snagging,
wet finishing machines to achieve
scratches, chicken claw marks, 6. Automatic tension control
energy-saving and sustainable
creases, etc., which puts forward 7. Suitable for all kinds of woven
production in the textile industry.
higher quality requirements for Through years of research to fabrics
dyeing equipment, combined with identify the characteristics of MONFONGS 888 TwinAir
strict environmental protection various kinds of fabrics in the
Stenter Frame Range
requirements. The hard indicators open-width wet treatment
of energy saving, consumption process, the R&D team has MONFONGS 888 TwinAir
reduction and emission reduction developed a series of new washing Monfongs new Stenter Frame
have also become an important compartments to enhance the Range is used for reduced energy
manifestation of equipment washing effect since 2016. consumption and operation
performance. The emergence of optimization.
Since 2017, GOLLER has
ECOWIN which effectively solve
successively launched the models
the above problems.
"SINTENSA MODUL" drum-
type washing compartment and
"EFFECTA MODUL" up-and-down
drum-type washing compartment
to not only reinforce the washing
effect but also resolve many
problems in various continuous
wet processing.
Advantage
In the upcoming TTMA ASIA,
GOLLER will exhibit the latest > Stenter Frame Range has
model of the "OXIDATOR MODUL" been equipped with mechanism
washing compartment, which of "Thermat" and the speed of air
The major advantages are: circulation motor will be reduced
combine drum-type powerful
1. High spray pressure & high spray cleaning and up and once the fabric is unpinned from
fabric speed down rollers cleaning to achieve the inlet track.
2. Single tube with double an excellent washing effect . • Thermat: 1 sensor arranged at
chamber design According to the comparative test, the fabric outlet opening of the
3. Unique nozzle & fabric delivery the washing efficiency of one unit chamber, reduction of exhaust to
tube structure of OXIDATOR MODUL is almost avoid excess incoming cold air.
equivalent to a conventional
4. High precision mirror fabric • When the photo-electric
up and down roller washing
chamber sensor at inlet track detects no
compartment with a fabric content
5. Torque control of Lifting roller of 2 x 19 meters. fabric for a period, the circulation
fan and exhaust fan will run at low
6. Unique kier bottom
speed.
7. First service tank (Standard
feature) > New advanced squeezing roller
can achieve lower pick-up reduce
8. pH control (Optional feature)
energy consumption and higher
9. Automatic service door productivity.
(Optional feature)
> The nozzle is using high graded
10. Manual adjustable nozzle
galvanized metal sheet to ensure
11. Automatic squeezing device Key features: no damage to sensitive fabric, easy
(Optional feature) to clean.
1. Interchangeable modular
12. High efficiency unloading design
device

66 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Factory Insight

Centro Tex’s Management Acceleration


Program boosts its leaders' morale
Tanvir Hossain

Centro Tex Ltd. – a leading observing some global and local


manufacturer and supplier of challenges.
apparel products – recently
Through the program, Centro Tex,
organized a Management
equips its leaders with essential
Acceleration Program to boost its
skills for today's dynamic business
leaders' morale. In the program,
world.
most of the managers joined a
session named ‘Leading People The vision of Centro is to inspire
& Team: Adaptive Leadership, people through creativity and
Supervisory Excellence & Team joy, by delivering compelling
Figure: Centro Tex Ltd. team.
Skills.’ and memorable designs with
sustainability, and establish the By embracing the vision, Centro
The necessity of innovation in upholds its core values, and aims
most reliable sourcing brand,
Bangladesh's textile and apparel to be the go-to brand for those
specializing in personalized and
industry is felt even more badly seeking personalized, creative, and
creative designs for fashion and
amid the current phase of difficult sustainable designs.
commodity merchandise.
times while the industry is

Blue Planet Group’s new Activewear


unit to boost high-end apparel export
Rahbar Hossain

In the world of activewear, a new player is on the


block. Bangladesh is experiencing a rapid increase
in the demand for activewear as more people are
becoming health and fitness conscious every day.
Bangladesh-based one of the largest apparel
exporters Blue Planet Group officially inaugurated
their new Activewear manufacturing facility Colour &
Co. on 30 September 2023 under the patronage of
higher officials of Rupali Bank and BPG. This endeavor
will boost the country’s high-end apparel export.
Considering the international fashion trends Colour
& Co. will make their products comfortable and
suitable as per the demand. They want to keep
Figure: Blue Planet Group’s new Activewear unit to boost
innovating and adding new technologies to their high-end apparel export.
products that will meet the customers' desires on a
regular basis. guided the visitors throughout the facility to
The inauguration event was graced by the presence showcase the ultra-modern infrastructure designed
of Rupali Bank Chairman Kazi Sanaul Hoq, Managing to produce world-class sportswear apparel.
Director and CEO Mohammed Jahangir, Deputy The chief guests and BPG Chairman addressed the
Managing Director Kazi Abdur Rahman, General Colour & Co employees ensuring their commitment
Manager Abu Naser Mohammad Masud and Tanvir to the growth of the organization and wellbeing of
Hossain Moin. the employees.
To mark this new journey, a set of trees were planted Soon after the speeches, the program came to a
by the distinguished guests. Following that, the delightful end with a special lunch being served to
Chairman of Blue Planet Group Arifur Rahman the guests and 8000 employees of BPG.

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 67


Q-TRON GARMENT
DY E S F O R WA S H -
D O W N & V I N TA G E
EFFECTS

Q-TRON
GARMENT
DYES
# Ga r m entDyei n g
#Wa shOu tEf fe ct s
# Fad ed Ef fec t s
# V in t a geEf fe ct
# Fas hionL oo ks

THE
POWER
OF
COLOR
T: 91 22 4018 6666 / 91 22 2352 2132
M. +88 01778 456731 | E: [email protected]
E: [email protected] | www.colorbandindia.com

ISO
9001:2008
ISO
14001:2004
ISO
45001:2018
CERTIFICATIONS
ISO 9001 : 2008 | ISO 14001 : 2004 | ISO 45001 : 2018
Presents

Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion

October 2023
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 16, Issue 10 l Pages 69 to 94

We are always on our toes

Unveiling industry best practices


to serve round-the-clock
customer service

Apparel accessories & fashion


Mahendra Khatau

October 2023
Chairman & Managing
Director, Indokem Limited.

‘Sweaty' shirts Apparel exports Consumers interested in


causing decline in EU & US: customizable clothing to
'concerns', check Need more focus on reduce industry's
out some ways non-traditional markets environmental impact:
US Study
One of the Global
Leaders in Viscose
Staple Fibre
Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) is the first fully
integrated viscose rayon producer in Asia
from renewable plantations to viscose
fibre. Our 300,000-tonnes capacity mill
located in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau, Indonesia
uses the latest viscose rayon production
technology to produce consistent, high-
quality rayon for use in textile and personal
hygiene products.

Product details

Dtex Length (mm) Spinning Type Blend

1.33 38mm Ring, O E and MVS l00 Viscose

1.33 38mm Ring, O E and MVS PV and VC

EXTENDING PARTNERSHIP
PRODUCT TECHNICAL KNOW- PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
INNOVATION HOW SUPPORT SUPPORT AND MARKETING SUPPORT

CERTIFICATIONS

Jakarta Office Singapore Office Bangladesh Office www.aprayon.com


JI. MH. Thamrin No. 31, 80 Raffles Place, UOB Plaza 1, #50-01 AIE Fiber Resource and Trading (lndia) Private limited
3rd Floor, Megana Towers, Ayyappa Society Road, @AsiaPacificRayon
Jakarta 10230, Indonesia Singapore 048624
Tel: +6221 31930134 Fax: +6221 3144 604 Tel: +65 6216 9368 Madhapur, Hyderabad - 500 081, Telangana, India
AsiaPacificRayon
For inquiry: [email protected] Fax: +65 6538 4668 Tel : +91 - 40 - 6658 3451 | Mobile: +91-8950277552
Email: [email protected]
AT E d i t o r i a l

Apparel exports decline in EU & US: Need


more focus on non-traditional markets
Rahbar Hossain

The garment industry of The problem is that almost 70 Non-traditional markets include
Bangladesh is under pressure amid percent of the country's total Japan, Australia, Russia,
the global crisis. Recently, BGMEA exports go to these two markets. India, Korea, China, UAE, Mexi
leaders said that, Bangladesh's If there is instability in these two co, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, Turkey,
garment exports to the US market markets for any reason, it will have South Africa, New Zealand, Chile,
have decreased by one-third and an adverse effect on the garment Brazil and many more countries.
to the European market by 14.5 industry of Bangladesh. 10 percent All these countries except Russia
percent. Apart from this, if the new of total exports go to the UK. and Chile experienced significant
minimum wage is implemented export growth but the amount
Bangladesh, as always, is heavily
this year, the garment industry will is much less in comparison to
dependent on these conventional
be under more pressure. demand. Bangladesh is the world's
markets which is not good for
second largest garment exporter
Bangladesh is the third largest garment industry.
and has many more export
apparel supplier in the US market.
Meanwhile, garment exports from opportunities in these markets.
In the first eight months of Bangladesh to non-traditional
Each of these markets has
this year (January-August), markets in July-September of
opportunities to grow exports and
Bangladesh's garment exports to this year were worth $2.24 billion.
BGMA is constantly striving. There
the United States decreased by During the same period of the
is no option to increase orders
21.77 percent. previous financial year, exports
for the apparel sector to do well
to these markets were worth
However, in the first quarter amid global volatility. The country's
$1.80 billion. According to this,
of the current financial year RMG sector has now become more
garment exports from the country
(July-September), Bangladesh robust with ample technical support
increased by 24.93 percent during
has exported $5.51 billion to the and skilled manpower. In addition to
the discussion period. 18 percent
European Union (EU) countries. This the efforts of BGMEA, government
of Bangladesh's garment exports
export increased by 11.47 percent initiatives are much needed, as well
go to this non-traditional market.
compared to the same period of the as the support of ambassadors
And in the last financial year 2022-
previous financial year. assigned to these countries.
23 the growth is 31.38 percent.

Non-Traditional Export in $mn Growth in


Markets in 2022-23 2022-23

Japan 1599.8 45.62%


Apparel export decreased in US market by
one-third and to EU market by 14.5%: BGMEA Australia 1157.3 42.48%
Russia 426.39 -26.96%
India 1012.85 41.58%
In the first eight months of 2023, Korea Rep. 538.46 22.45%
exports to US decreased by 21.77%: EPB
China 289.75 30.32%

United Arab
292.37 3.53%
Emirates
in the first quarter of the current financial year (July-September)
export to EU $5.51bn, growth 11.47% Mexico 348 26.50%

Export to US $2.07, growth 2.77% Malaysia 297.09 41.94%

Non-traditional Market $2.24bn, growth 24.93% Saudi Arabia 185.41 29.03%


Turkey 290.16 49.81%
South Africa 126.24 6.74%
70% of the total exports go to EU & US markets
New Zealand 125.43 13.00%
10% to UK Non-traditional Market 18%
Chile 163.1 -11.04%
Brazil 160 71.14%
200 green factories where our Other Countries 1362.51 52.71%
entrepreneurs have invested heavily Total 8374.87 31.38%

compliance & certification issues


multiplying production cost

2022-23 the growth in Non-traditional 31.38 percent

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 71


Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion

October 2023

An initiative of Textile Today


71 AT Editorial 82-83 Advertorial
Apparel exports decline in
The Team EU & US: Need more focus
on non-traditional markets

Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO 73-74 Top Story

Is sustainable the
Amzad Hossain Monir future of fashion?
Head of Business Development

‘Sweaty' shirts causing 84 Exclusive


'concerns', check out Interview
some ways
Rahbar Hossain
Business Development
76-77 Experts Views

SN Abdullah
Nurnahar Akter HT&K Chemicals is expanding
Arif-uz-Zaman its business in Bangladesh
Research & Development
3 steps can secure your 86-87 Advertorial
business next 3 decades
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Engagement & Communication
78-79 Exclusive
Interview
Yeasin Mia
Graphic Design

Zakir Hossain
Executive, Web & IT
We are always on our toes
Pailung’s AlterKnit creates
to serve round-the-clock
functional fabrics that boost
customer service
performance
Ashraful Alam
Cinematographer 80 Advertorial
88 Advertorial
Md. Emon R|Elan™ GreenGold offers a
Video Editor comprehensive range of eco-
friendly solutions

Md. Ariful Islam


90 Fashion & Retail
Md. Masudur Rahman H&M exposes Rabanne as its
ZSCH showcases high-
Abir Basak latest designer collaboration
performance synthetic esters
Editorial Contributions
at Lubricant Expo 2023

Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 999 748
E. [email protected]
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
To p S t o r y

‘Sweaty' shirts
causing 'concerns',
check out some ways
Saiful Saad

Sportswear is a very important refer to materials and fabrics


segment to focus in the world that incorporate electronic
of textile. Various international components and technologies to
organizations are trying to provide additional functionalities
focus on their specialization in to traditional textiles. These
this category. The body sweats textiles are getting more and more
are a problem in terms of the evolved with latest technologies
exchange of body heat into the implemented through various Figure 1: ‘Sweaty' shirts causing
environment while playing games. research and development 'concerns', check out some ways.
Overattainment of sweats can be a projects. New and innovative
knit are highly likely to be used
noteworthy problem while gaming contributions by researchers
as the chosen materials for this
in a challenging format. and collaborators are taking
innovative fabric design.
smart textile production to a
Reports emerged on 28
benchmarking position. The layering system is the
September that several players
key for the insulation and
are unhappy at the prospect of Thermoregulation fabric can be
thermoregulation fabric design.
wearing the kit in their Women's an innovative solution
The layers needed are:
Super League season-opener
Thermoregulation fabric design
against Manchester United. It 1. A baselayer, worn against the
aims to create textiles capable
followed reports the club's men's skin, designed primarily to
of regulating body temperature
team had raised issues about the transport moisture away from
by effectively managing heat
shirt retaining sweat and feeling the body
and moisture. The process can
uncomfortable. The new home
be implemented in clothing and 2. A mid layer to keep the body
claret and blue shirts, made by
suitable for developing various warm, worn over the baselayer
British sportswear group Castore,
items like sportswear, aesthetic
are the worst affected - noticeably 3. An outer layer to keep the body
wear to medical garments. Wool,
changing colour in games. and other layers dry
fleece, polar-grid, and waffle
During most of Villa's men's Nowadays, fleece is being made
matches this season, players have of different designs, like spreading
changed their soaked shirts at sheet of fleece on the garment's
half-time. The sweat has become a inner part. The raised thickness
burden for the players for carrying pattern part should be more
on in the game. The players are comfortable, giving enough soft
having to play in soaking wet handfeel on the apparel. The
t-shirts and it is a problem that hollow part is a less thick part
needs to be solved. It cannot go which helps breathing of air
on all season. The players look inside. When an athlete runs with
like they’ve jumped in a swimming a determining force, the hot air
pool after about 10 minutes. usually traps within the apparel
and stays in the grid. The materials
Smart textiles can be a great
create a better breathability
way of reducing the problem
and functional aspect for the
and deliberately enhancing the
professional athletes. This type
performance of the players on
Figure 2: Thermoregulation fabric can be of smart textiles can be a great
the ground. Smart textiles, often an innovative solution. addition in the textile industry for

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 73


To p S t o r y

Antibacterial
the proper fixing of this problem. Inhibits the growth
of bacteria
Moisture management in fabrics
can be effective

Comfort is one of the most


Textile impregnated Antifungal
critical factors for textiles. It is with antimicrobial Prevents the growth of
mainly implicated by the moisture compounds fungal mycelium and
spore germination
management of the textiles. This Active chemical compounds
issue has received increasing Nanoparticles
attentions especially in the fields
Antiviral
of sportswear, activewear, and Modify the surface
workwear. A unique technique of structures of viruses
surface modifying a cotton fabric
resulted in the creation of a smart Figure 3: The demand for antimicrobial clothing is surging as the consumers are more
aware about their health and hygiene.
textile with Janus wetting and
wicking capabilities. that provide protection from the clothing is surging as the
foul environments, like wind, rain, consumers are more aware
The fabric has the ability to
and loss of body heat. A cloth about their health and hygiene
quickly absorb and transfer liquid
that is waterproof entirely resists in addition of adverse effect of
moisture from the interior to the
the entry and absorption of micro-organisms to human body.
outer surface, where it evaporates
liquid water while yet permitting
in the environment. Operating The psychological distress induced
the passage of air and moisture
the manufacturing process is by bad odours in textiles owing
vapour. The tightly woven
simple and environmentally to microbial development and
waterproof textiles have a high
favourable. The outcomes of the fungal skin diseases is significantly
cover factor weave structure
various characterizations support reduced by anti-microbial treated
made of cotton or synthetic
the structural characteristics textile. Additionally, they build a
microfilament yarns. The best
underlying the mechanistic strong barrier to stop the spread
options in this case are finer
processes of directional moisture of microorganisms resistant to
natural fibres or micro-denier
management across the modified antibiotics, which cause infections
synthetic fibres since they may
cotton fabric. It demonstrates linked to hospitals.
minimise free space in the yarn or
great potential for garment comfort
fabric structure. Bacteria and fungi can cause
applications in various modern
deterioration of ranges of textiles
working or living situations. The coated fabrics with waterproof
materials, leading to loss of
breathable functionality are
Principally, the comfort performance, ageing, staining,
generally produced by coating
characteristic of the clothing is unpleasant odors, and potential
the one or both sides of the
influenced by the wetness or skin infections. Antimicrobial
fabric with a polymeric material.
drying of the fabric and thermal implementation can easily enhance
Polyurethane is most commonly
condition in that particular micro- textile clothings performance by
used in such application. The
climate. As a result reducing odour, too much sweat,
coatings are of two types: (i)
body fluid contamination etc. Such
of this, the sport garments worn micro-porous membranes (ii)
properties are greatly needed for
next to skin should have good hydrophilic membrane. In micro-
the removal of such problems in
sweat absorption, transmission, porous membrane, the coating
the textile world.
and desorption properties. In this contains very fine inter connected
context, the synthetics fibre are channels that are much smaller in Smart textiles are creating
preferred over natural fibres, like size than the finest raindrop, but impact on some technical and
cotton, ramie, flax etc. as they do larger in size than that of water higher valued garments. Athletic
not retain moisture and keep the vapour molecules. These effective garments must be formed with
garment dry and lighter in wet implementation of resources can several characteristics, especially
conditions. Moisture management easily give certain properties to remastered for the professionals.
properties can easily reduce the the clothes. Higher breathability The above features can easily
factors of imbalance between ensures the proper systematic enhance the performance of
moisture in the clothes. reduction and dissipation of heat the dress and create a better
throughout the dress. quality feedback for the both
Waterproof- breathable sport
male and female dresses for high
textile Antimicrobial finishing of sport
performance and prevent color
textile
Waterproof breathable fabrics change due to sweat and low
are designed for use in garments The demand for antimicrobial dissipation of heat.

74 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


[email protected]



Narrow Fabrics
 

Discover Montrims'
premium Narrow Fabrics
section, offering high-quality
ribbons, webbing, elastics,
cords, and more.
Experts Views

3 steps can secure


your business
next 3 decades
Engr. Mohammad Mezbah Uddin

The current situation in the Bangladesh garment Process innovation: Implementing advanced
» 
industry, as well as similar industries in other manufacturing technologies, automation, and
production countries, is marked by an order crisis. This digital tools can improve efficiency, reduce costs,
situation is attributed to various factors. However, the and enhance product quality. We see some
industry can find a way forward through the strategic good news in our industry developing process is
implementation of innovation, diversification, and reducing the usage of water, chemicals, energy,
sustainability. These pivotal approaches not only hold and other resources as well as enhancing efficiency
the potential to rescue the industry from its present and profit.
market challenges but also offer the opportunity to
1. Sustainable innovation: Investing in research and
establish a solid foundation for sustained success
development to create eco-friendly fabrics, dyes,
in the long run. It's imperative to recognize that the
and production methods can align with consumer
synergy achieved by combining these strategies can
demand for sustainable fashion. Also, installing
yield particularly promising results.
advanced machinery to improve processes and
Innovation: reduce cost is important.

Product innovation: Developing unique and


»  Diversification:
innovative garment designs, materials, and features
can set the industry apart from competitors and
attract new customers. Some textile and apparel
millers in Bangladesh are innovating new products
to cope with the global market challenge. More
entrepreneurs should embrace product innovation
to come out from the mindset of making only basic
products.

Figure 2: Exploring new markets and reducing reliance on a


single region can provide a buffer against market fluctuations.

• Market diversification: Exploring new markets and


reducing reliance on a single region can provide a
buffer against market fluctuations. This could involve
targeting emerging economies, niche markets, or
untapped segments. Some non-traditional markets
have huge potential to grow like the Middle East,
Brazil, Japan etc. We need to increase our marketing
Figure 1: Developing unique and innovative garment designs, in these markets.
materials, and features can set the industry apart from
competitors and attract new customers. • Product diversification: Expanding the product range

76 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Fashion & Retail Experts Views

and adopting eco-friendly production methods


can improve the industry's reputation and appeal
to conscious consumers. With 200 LEED-certified
green factories and other compliance factories,
Bangladesh leader in ethical and sustainable
practices. However, the practices should be ensured
among 4000 apparel factories those are operating
in Bangladesh.

• Circular economy: Embracing a circular economy


approach by focusing on recycling, upcycling, and
responsible disposal of textiles can reduce waste
Figure 3: Developing sustainable fashion solutions tailored to and resource consumption. A big global market
specific market segments can attract a loyal customer base.
has been created now for recycled products, so we
beyond traditional garments, such as active wear, should grab the opportunity.
athleisure, lingerie, and home textiles, can open up To effectively recover from the present market
new revenue streams. Some of the entrepreneurs crisis, these strategies should be aligned with a
have been manufacturing these products for a few comprehensive industry-wide vision.
years. However, the number is very nominal.

• Value-added services: Offering services like


customization, personalization, and made-to-
order options can enhance customer loyalty and Author
differentiate the industry's offerings.
Engr. Mohammad Mezbah Uddin
Sustainability:
Head of Marketing & Merchandising,
• Ethical and sustainable practices: Implementing Kimberley Design
ethical labor practices, ensuring workplace safety,

Nike retains its position as world's


most valuable fashion brand in 2023
Zakir Hossain

Nike, Inc. is an American athletic


footwear and apparel has retained
its position as the world’s most
valuable apparel brand despite
dips in brand value from slower
revenue growth this year, registered
at $31.3 billion in 2023, which is 6%
down from $33.2 billion in 2022
$31.3bn $26.3 bn $19.4 bn
Nike beat out luxury fashion
houses Louis Vuitton, Chanel
and Gucci in the ranking which
came in second, third and fourth
respectively.
Annie Brown, General Manager $17.8bn $15.7bn $14.2bn
of Brand Finance UK, said, “From
its relentless commitment to Figure: World's most valuable fashion brands in 2023.

innovation, ability to stay ahead


continuing to leverage its enormous Louis Vuitton registered up 12% to
of market trends, and extensive
global influence and reputation to $26.3 billion, where Chanel’s value
partnerships with athletes
empower positive change in the up 27% to $19.4 billion, Gucci brand
worldwide, Nike has firmly
sporting world and beyond.” value $17.8 billion, Adidas $15.7
cemented its place at the top of the
billion and Hermes $14.2 billion.
apparel industry. In 2023, the brand is Besides that, renowned luxury

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 77


Exclusive Interview

We are always on our


toes to serve round-the-
clock customer service
BTT Interview

Indokem Limited – a concern


of Khatau Group – was
established in 1946 to
manufacture, process and
market a wide range of
exclusive dyestuffs to the
growing textile industry
in India. From its very
inception, Indokem has been
customer-driven and highly
service-oriented group,
providing value-added
products consistently.
Keeping in view the need
for consolidation, the group
ventured into manufacturing
Figure 1: Mahendra Khatau, Chairman & Managing Director, Indokem Limited.
of vat dyes of various
brands under brand name
Textile Today: Kindly share us standards and improve with
of ‘Indonon Vat Dyes’. The
about Indokem and its focus on ongoing trends in technology and
Company is the Industry
Bangladesh market. innovative developments.
leader in Sizing Chemicals &
Vat Paste. It is among top 3 Mahendra Khatau: Indokem is We are operating in the
for VAT Dyes and Direct Dyes. an 80-year-old company. We Bangladesh market for many years.
are one of the pioneers in India Especially in the last couple of
At present Indokem
to recognize a growing textile years, we have taken Bangladesh
manufactures a range of
industry and has since been a textile market very seriously. As
Anthraquinone and Indigo
leader in the market of textile dyes a continuation of that, this year
based vat dyes which is
and chemicals. we have formally established our
available in Crude Dry press
We have always been a customer entity in the market and tied up
cake, Ultra conc powders,
driven and highly service oriented with a local representative. The
Micro Disperse Vat Dyes
group consistently providing formal establishment will help us
in Grannular form and Vat
pastes. value added products. As an in catering the growing demand of
experienced team, we are always the country’s textile market.
Mahendra Khatau, Chairman
on our toes to serve domestic as We see Bangladesh market vital
& Managing Director,
Indokem Limited and Manish
well as international market with for all of our product ranges.
Khatau, Executive Director, excellently developed products and As Indokem has a versatile and
Indokem Limited talked round-the-clock customer service. well-diversified product range
with Textile Today at the In terms of Indokem’s global of textile chemical products,
recently concluded 22nd footprint, our business spans including Sizing Chemicals, Textile
Textech Bangladesh 2023 across several markets, from the Auxiliaries, Indonon Vat Dyes,
International Expo. Here is Indian subcontinent to the Middle- Incomine Direct Dyes, Suprafix
the highlighting part of the East Asia, East Asia, Europe, and Reactive Dyes, Indonol Sulphur
discussion for the readers. South America. Together we dyes, Indacid Acid Dyes and
work to accomplish the highest Texoprint Pigment Dispersion. Our

78 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Figure 2: Indokem team at 22nd Textech Bangladesh 2023 International Expo.

products are exported for use in diversified market


segments – apparel, home textiles and technical textiles.
So, all range of product demand growing as the
apparel manufacturing grows. Overall, Indokem
regards Bangladesh textile chemical market as a
game changer in the coming future.
Textile Today: Compared to India and China – how
do you see the Bangladesh textile market?
Mahendra Khatau: Compared to India and China –
Bangladesh is very focused on textile industry – as it
is the industry for the country unlike the other two
mentioned countries. And all our products are in Figure 3: Manish Khatau, Executive Director, Indokem Limited.
textiles – so the market is absolutely vital for us.
Bangladesh needs certified products, which we are
Textile Today: In the last few months the global totally compiled with.
textile chemical industry observing a depression.
Textile Today: What are you seeing in the future of
How it has affected the dyes and chemicals
your business? Is there any specific plans or goals
manufacturers.
you want to share with our audience?
Mahendra Khatau: Yes, the depression has affected
Manish Khatau: The main difference between the
not only us – rather every manufacturer in the
older generations to our new generation in the
global market. But to be frank, the ups and down in
company is that we want to explore not only the
the businesses are a part of it and it is a cycle. We
textile industrial market, but also other sectors
believe that things will come around very soon. We
related to our chemical expertise. I want to apply our
have to keep all this in mind while doing business.
assets to multiple industries whether they are plastic
The transformation that happened in is this global solutions, technical textiles etc.
crisis is that the industry is looking for more energy
Textile Today: What do you think your strength
saving and sustainable chemicals. We are trying to
is, when competition among other companies are
bring more and more sustainability focused products
involved in the existing market? Can you tell us your
in our lineup. We have already thought about starting
perspective about it?
a manufacturing base in Bangladesh.
Manish Khatau: As my father mentioned earlier, we
Textile Today: We are seeing a competition in this
are trying to cater our products from fiber to finish.
particular area from other countries. Please give us a
We want to ensure and guarantee the viability of our
message which can be beneficial to your potential buyers.
products and when buyers have a difficulty at some point
Mahendra Khatau: We have versatile products in of the time, we try to ensure the after-service solution.
our company including dyes, sizing chemicals, auxiliaries,
We have already started our operation in
pigments etc. We can easily offer our full package to the
Bangladesh. If any support is needed, even our
buyers so that they can choose which product to purchase.
employees can fly to Bangladesh overnight to solve
We have 200 products compliant with GOTS and the technical difficulties to give the best support
ZDHC-level 3 certifications. We are very much aware overall. I hope that our support and Bangladeshi
about our certifications and sustainability factors. companies can together make the best thing happen
Bangladesh is focusing on western market now. Thus in this tough time.

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 79


Advertorial

ZSCH showcases high-performance


synthetic esters at Lubricant Expo 2023
N. Tania

Zschimmer & Schwarz (ZSCH) • Corrosion inhibitors that is environmentally friendly,


showcased its broad portfolio of food-safe, fire-resistant or bio-
• Surfactants
high-performance synthetic ester derived, tailor-made chemistry
base stocks and metalworking • Chelating agents that is optimized for the most
fluid additives at Lubricant Expo With 28 companies in 16 countries challenging conditions.
2023 in Essen. on five continents, the ZSCH Metalworking is one of the
Group is a leading manufacturer of best initiative of ZSCH. The
specialty chemical products. metal manufacturing industry
The ceramic, textile, synthetic is constantly evolving, requiring
fibre and leather industries, as well lubricants that remove heat,
as manufacturers of cosmetics reduce friction, extend tool
and cleaning products, and other life and improve surface finish.
special applications all over the Metalworking lubricant additives
world, rely on the company's are essential for emulsion stability,
developments. corrosion control, low friction and
wear, and prolonged coolant life.
ZSCH has continuously advanced
the science of specialty chemicals, Metalworking formulators must
and most recently invested in adapt to demands for improved
expanded production capacity for operational efficiency, operator
our line of energy-saving, friction health and safety, and changing
reducing lubricant components for material metallurgy.
industrial lubricants. For this, Z&S offers a broad
ZSCH featured EAL-certified Their high-performance lubricant spectrum of halogen and sulfur
esters: base stocks and metalworking free metalworking lubricant
additives, meets the specific additives to support your
• BioPreferred
formulation needs of synthetic ester formulation requirements.
• NSF HX-1 food grade and lubricant additive experts. With scientific curiosity and
• LuSC/VGP/EU Ecolabel Synthetic ester oils meet the ingenuity, the company constantly
demanding requirements of works to improve everyday life
• Readily biodegradable
industrial, automotive and marine for all people with the help of
Mw additives innovative products towards
applications. When operating
• EP/AW/FM additives environments call for a lubricant sustainability.

Figure: ZSCH showcases high-performance synthetic esters at Lubricant Expo 2023.

80 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Advertorial

Is sustainable the
future of fashion?
APR Story

Fashion is a multi-billion-dollar industry that has a Not only do clothes take up valuable space in
huge impact on the environment, and it is vital to landfills—because clothing and textiles currently
consider the sustainability of the industry’s practices make up at least 7% of the total amount of waste in
if we are to guarantee a healthier future for the global landfill space—but the production of fashion
environment. items is a major contributor to global greenhouse
gas emissions.
Unfortunately, the production of clothes is associated
with practices that are incredibly damaging, whether Textile production also generates 42 million tonnes
it’s through deforestation in order to cultivate land of plastic waste per year, making the textile industry
for producing cotton or through the dumping of the second-highest industrial source after packaging.
toxic chemicals used in dyeing fabrics. Clearly, it is Every time a synthetic garment is washed, it releases
important that we strive to reduce the environmental tiny plastic microfibers into the water. Up to 500,000
damage caused by the industry. tonnes of microfibers end up in the ocean every year.
Fashion waste is becoming an increasingly pressing As we know, only 20% of textiles are collected for
issue in today's world. With the growing popularity reuse or recycling globally. So that’s why we must
of fast fashion, we are on track to throw away more take action to reduce the amount of fashion waste
than 134 million tonnes of textiles annually by 2030. produced every year. We can start by purchasing
This is a huge waste of resources and has a massive quality pieces that will last longer and buying
impact on the environment. fewer items overall. Additionally, we can donate

82 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Advertorial

this, APR has strategically integrated vertically with


APRIL, enabling them to have more control over their
supply chain and implement sustainable practices
throughout the production process. By ensuring
that land use practices are environmentally friendly
and emissions are offset, APR strives to play its
part in mitigating the effects of climate change and
protecting the planet for future generations.

our unwanted clothes to charity or look for ways to


recycle them. Doing so can help reduce the amount
of fashion waste produced each year and help create
a more sustainable future.
The rise of the global movement for sustainable
living has become increasingly noticeable in recent
times, and our ability to move towards a more
sustainable future has never been more pertinent.
With an increasing focus on reducing our negative
environmental impact, our ability to choose
sustainable options for daily needs has never been
easier.
Mindful shopping is also a very popular way of
reducing our carbon footprint. This approach focuses
on selecting the most ethical and sustainable options
when buying and consuming products by carefully
researching their origin, production, and expiration
dates. This can both help protect the environment
and provide consumers with better-quality materials.
The upcycling movement has experienced
exponential growth as of late, as people are
prioritizing reusing items whenever possible. Instead
of tossing away, this entails rethinking them for a By combining a commitment to responsible sourcing
new use. with ambitious climate goals, APR sets an example
Finally, biodegradable products are often created for the textile industry and other sectors on how to
with renewable resources, such as plant-based prioritize sustainability in their operations. As they
plastics, which are 100% compostable. That means continue to work toward a more sustainable future,
there is increasing focus on where raw materials APR's efforts contribute to building a greener, more
come from, how garments are produced, and what equitable world and fostering a positive impact on
happens to them at the end of their useful lives. And both the environment and society as a whole.
nature-based fabrics, such as viscose rayon, have a About Asia Pacific Rayon
clear place in the future where fashion industry is
more sustainable. Asia Pacific Rayon (APR), based in Indonesia, is
Asia's first fully integrated viscose rayon producer,
APR’s viscose rayon is produced from trees grown from plantation to viscose fibre. APR, which has
on sustainably managed plantations that are a capacity of 300,000 tonnes per year, is located
independently certified, primarily through the in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau Province, Indonesia,
international body PEFC. This certification ensures alongside pulp supplier APRIL. APR and APRIL are
that the raw materials used have a minimal impact on both part of the Royal Golden Eagle (RGE), group of
the environment, promoting ecological balance and companies. www.aprayon.com
preserving natural resources.
Please contact us for further information
As part of APR2030 agenda, APR takes an ambitious
stance on combating climate change. To accomplish Email: [email protected]

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 83


Exclusive Interview

enterprise’. It has existing sales


offices in Guangdong, Jiangsu,
Zhejiang and other Chinese regions
like Pakistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam
and other main textile countries.
Textile Today interviewed with two
representatives of both Colour
Chemistry and HT&K respectively
Md. Salahuddin Sarker, Managing
Director, Colour Chemistry and

HT&K Chemicals
Nathan Wang, Managing Director,
HT&K Group.

is expanding
Textile Today: Colour Chemistry is
a renowned brand in Bangladesh.
Please briefly tell us about your
company products.

its business in Md. Salahuddin Sarker: We are


a renowned textile chemical

Bangladesh
company in Bangladesh. We are
currently trying to give a certain
value addition to the market by
producing Pigment Dyes General
Series, Pigment Dyes Florescent
Series, Printing Chemicals,
BTT Interview
Pretreatment, Dyeing, Enzyme,
Finishing, Denim & Washing
Colour Chemistry has been serving to customer needs, modify
Auxiliaries, Special finishing
Bangladesh’s textile and Garments and develops new products to
Chemical etc. We are working from
industry with quality products keep its customers competitive.
2016 with a certain goal with being
for more than 6 years with strong Colour Chemistry products are in
the sole agent and authorized
chemical background and a compliance with Green Screen,
distributor of HT&K Chemicals.
leading pigment supplier from Oekotex, ZDHC regulations and
Thailand. Working closely with GOTS certification. Textile today: Tell us something
customer, their R&D and technical about your goal and planning
Colour Chemistry is the sole
sales team identify customer regarding Bangladesh Textile
distributor of HT & K Group in
needs, offer solution and products market.
Bangladesh.
in timely, efficient, and economical. Nathan Wang: HT&K Chemicals
HT&K Chemical – An international
Colour Chemistry is committed to is one of the largest auxiliary
manufacturer of textile auxiliaries.
the development of environmental manufacturers in China. We
HT&K covers in this field the whole
protection-related products. are expanding our business in
supply chain, integrating R&D,
Understanding modern-day Bangladesh market. Bangladeshi
Pilot Plant scale-up, large volume
competition, overall cost market is so much important as
production, customer service,
effectiveness high throughput and the textile industry is growing here
marketing and sales. HT&K is rated
efficiency are crucial for customer consistently. We will try to add
by the government as ‘high-tech
success. Colour Chemistry listens value to the industry especially to
the local industries.
We are trying to provide high
value to the industry in the
auxiliary market. I hope that
textile industry should go towards
greener and cleaner in overall
process and structure. We are
trying to give our potential
products for sustainable use. We
are trying to give enough support
with our dedicated team to help in
Figure 1: Md. Salahuddin Sarker, Figure 2: Nathan Wang, Managing
Managing Director, Colour Chemistry. Director, HT&K Group. the time of need.

84 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Advertorial

Pailung’s AlterKnit creates


functional fabrics that
boost performance
Pailung Story

Imagine clothing that doesn’t just approaches to comfort in order its fabric technologies. In June,
feel comfortable against your skin to meet changing demands and it unveiled its AlterKnit knitting
but actively adapts to your needs. ensure they stay ahead. technology at ITMA 2023, the
Enter AlterKnit, an innovation by world’s largest textile machinery
Pailung. convention, to overwhelming
acclaim from major apparel
Comfort is a crucial quality
brands. Why did AlterKnit perform
consumers look for in clothing.
so well? It checked three boxes:
This has never been more true
aesthetic, sustainability, and lastly,
than in recent years, as the
comfort.
activewear and athleisure markets
continue to expand. As people AlterKnit is heralded as a game-
choose more active lifestyles and changer because it knits multiple
working from home becomes more colors together in one step,
commonplace, the importance of yielding patterned fabrics while
comfort in clothing continues to grow. reducing energy consumption
by eliminating finishing steps like
splicing and embroidery. In doing
so, it produces smooth, lightweight
fabrics. However, what’s equally
as impressive but perhaps less
known, is that AlterKnit can also
In response, several major make functional fabrics.
sportswear brands are using
functional fabrics. These provide
extra functions for the wearer,
such as moisture wicking, through
the fabric’s structure or the yarn’s
chemical properties. As fabric
technologies advance and demand
for greater comfort increases,
more brands will look towards
functional fabrics to keep up with
the competition.
When mentioning comfort, most Pailung’s Innovative Approach to
people immediately think of fabric Function
weight or hand feel. However,
Taiwanese knitting machine
these characteristics are no longer
manufacturer Pailung is one
enough to satisfy consumers. Soft
of the brands empowering the
materials don’t always provide
functional fabric trend while
the best support, and with global
combining it with aesthetics.
temperatures rising, lightweight Elevating Athletic Performance
Known for its relentless approach
fabrics can only do so much to
to innovation and development, There are two types of AlterKnit
prevent us from overheating.
Pailung consistently experiments machine, single knit and double
The bottom line is that brands
with ways to boost comfort with knit. Besides transitioning through
must adopt more comprehensive

86 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


C o l l a b o r a t i o n To d a y Advertorial

colors swiftly, this ground-breaking which is particularly useful for winter colors or yarn types together
technology can also switch sportswear or other outdoor clothing. using an inverse plating technique,
between two knit structures whereby alternate colors
Incorporating different functions
within one sheet of fabric. Double appear on the fabric surface to
adds value to fabrics and
knit can be combined with pique create designs. This also offers
garments. It not just improves
or mesh, while single knit can sustainability benefits, as knitting
comfort for the wearer, but
be combined with pique, mesh, multiple colors directly enables
in the case of sportswear
or fleece. Pailung is currently designers to use dyed or dope-
applications, it can even boost
extending capabilities further, and dyed yarn as the raw material
athletic performance. What’s
states that double knit AlterKnit for knitting patterns, rather than
even more impressive is that it
combined with spacer will be piece dyeing. Dope-dyed yarn is
does all this while incorporating
available soon. considered more environmentally
its signature patterns, preventing
friendly due to its increased color
AlterKnit produces functional manufacturers from sacrificing
fastness, and reduced water,
fabric that not just improves color for comfort.
chemical, and energy consumption.
comfort but also enhances athletic
As a result, AlterKnit allows designers
performance. For example, it
to latch onto the functional fabric
can use elastic yarn to create
trend while achieving their own
stretchable, flexible fabrics.
sustainability goals.
These are a popular choice for
medium- to low-impact sports The Future of Function
like jogging, running, and golf,
By combining function and
as the fabric follows the body’s
sustainability with colorful
movements with ease. In addition,
designs, Pailung is set to take
when combining AlterKnit with
the activewear and athleisure
mesh, designers are able to make
markets by storm, particularly
body-mapping garments. This
football, running, and gym clothes.
technique alters fabric in specific
The brand hopes its technology
places so that it responds to
can help manufacturers to meet
different parts of the body and
the rising demand for more
their requirements. For example,
technical textiles and add value
adding mesh to areas such as
to their apparel lines, while
underarms, increases ventilation
appealing to the growing number
and makes the fabric more
Intertwining Color, Comfort, and of environmentally conscious
breathable, especially useful
Sustainability consumers. In the future, Pailung
in hotter climates. For colder
plans to add more functions to
environments, single knit AlterKnit So how does AlterKnit actually
AlterKnit's capabilities as well as
can use fleece to trap heat between create patterns? This state-of-
new fabric textures, increasing the
its fibers while remaining lightweight, the-art technology knits multiple
technology's versatility.

DBL to collaborate University of Dhaka for internship


SN Abdullah

Bangladesh’s leading apparel Md. Hasan Babu, Dean, Faculty of


manufacturer and exporter – DBL Engineering & Technology, University
Group signed a Memorandum of of Dhaka signed on behalf of their
Understanding (MoU) with the respective organizations.
University of Dhaka’s Faculty of
This strategic collaboration is set
Engineering & Technology.
to make a considerable impact on
The scope of the MoU includes the textile landscape by equipping
internship, career counseling, professionals with the latest
and scholarship facilities for the techniques, insights, and practical
students of University of Dhaka expertise. It is expected that the
along with joint research work collaboration will not only enhance
subject to the mutual interest of the skill set of individuals but Figure: M. A. Jabbar, Managing Director,
DBL Group and Professor Dr. Hafiz Md.
both parties. also elevate the industry’s overall
Hasan Babu, Dean, Faculty of Engineering &
competitiveness in the global Technology, University of Dhaka signed on
M. A. Jabbar, Managing Director,
market. behalf of their respective organizations.
DBL Group and Professor Dr. Hafiz

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 87


Advertorial

R|Elan™ GreenGold offers


a comprehensive range of
eco-friendly solutions
R|Elan™ Story

Key contributor to Green Fashion at the same time are eco-friendly. GreenGold
combines sustainability with various functional
It has become increasingly important for long-term
benefits like moisture management in the form of
sustainability that the fashion industry works on
R|Elan™ Kooltex, thermal insulation in the form of
reducing its carbon footprint and adopt concepts
R|Elan™ AirTherm and all weather comfort in the
of circular economy to deal with the pollution it
form of R|Elan™ AllClima. GreenGold is also available
triggers, and the resultant climate change.
in pre-coloured (dope dyed) form in a wide variety
Reliance Industries Ltd (RIL), India’s largest private of shades, thus reducing the need for downstream
sector company, is spearheading the adoption of dyeing.
sustainability and circular economy concepts. RIL has
Now, your garments can be eco-friendly, functional
been recycling post-consumer used PET bottles to
as well as fashionable!!
provide eco-sensitive raw materials to global fashion
brands and retailers. RIL has been a key contributor Now available with low BPA content
in the current green fashion movement, as it recycles
Bisphenol A (BPA) is in the restricted substances list
more than 2 billion post-consumer PET bottles
of global fashion brands, due to its harmful effect on
annually across different manufacturing sites.
the humans and the environment.
R|Elan™ range of fabrics offer multiple possibilities
RIL, through its R&D efforts and technical expertise,
with inherent technologies that bring about special
has developed a new variant of GreenGold fibres
and lasting benefits in the garment for the consumer.
and filament yarns with less than 1 ppm BPA. This
R|Elan™ GreenGold fabric which is made from 100%
new R|Elan™ GreenGold variant of fabric enable
post-consumer used PET bottles is a core part of
brands and retailers to offer a safer solution to their
the R|Elan™ product portfolio and it helps provide
consumers.
sustainable solutions to the fashion industry.
Enabling green fashion across apparel categories
Complete range of Eco-sensitive solutions
Due to its versatile nature, GreenGold can be used
GreenGold is available both in staple fibre and in
across a wide range of applications in apparel such
filament yarn forms.
as casual wear, denims, formals, active wear, woven
Under the staple fibre category, GreenGold is tops and bottoms, womens westernwear and home
available across a range of deniers from one of the textile applications.
finest deniers like 1D to coarse deniers like 3D and
This way, R|Elan™ GreenGold fabric empowers
Tow for worsted applications.
domestic and international fashion brands with
GreenGold is also available in Draw Texturized Yarn high quality eco-friendly fashion that can fulfil the
(DTY) and in Fully Drawn Yarn (FDY) ranging from growing demands of their consumers.
50D to 300D with dpf ranging from 1dpf to 3dpf.
Visit us at https://www.r-elan.com/ to know more
Depending on the brand requirements, GreenGold about R|Elan™ and also visit https://relan-sourcing.
can be made in various lustres like Semi Dull, Full virtulab.online/ to explore the world of innovative
Dull, Optically bright etc. fabrics from R|Elan™
Sustainability with added Functionality
There is a growing demand for apparel with value
added benefits.
R|Elan™ fabrics offer a world of possibilities with
technologies that bring lasting benefits to wearer

88 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Fashion & Retail

H&M exposes Rabanne as its


latest designer collaboration
Nurnahar Akter Tania

Swedish fashion brand H&M has “As a designer, I’ve


announced its next designer always been interested in
collaboration is with Puig- exploring hedonism and
owned Spanish luxury label Paco empowerment. I was very
Rabanne, which rebranded as enthusiastic to work with
Rabanne earlier this summer. H&M on a collection that
will introduce Rabanne’s
Paco Rabanne’s era-defining 1960s
avant-garde energy to
creations, since 2013 the house
a wider audience in a
has been reinvigorated by creative
democratic way,”
director Julien Dossena.
Julien Dossena
Just a few days after Rabanne Figure: Consumers interested in
Creative Director of Rabanne. customizable clothing to reduce industry's
unveiled its extravagant metallic environmental impact: US Study.
fringe and armor-inspired Spring The Rabanne and H&M collection
2024 collection in Paris, Creative includes womenswear, menswear, selected stores and online shops
Director Julien Dossena is already shoes and accessories, as well as from 9th November 2023.
onto his next big moment an H&M Home décor capsule that
For spring/summer 2023, H&M
complements the fashion collection.
Ann-Sofie Johansson, Head of teamed up with French luxury
design womenswear and creative H&M was an early pioneer fashion house Mugler. The high-
advisor at H&M said, “Rabanne’s in the fashion collaboration street brand has previously
metallic dresses are instantly space, launching its designer collaborated with the likes of
recognizable pieces of fashion collaboration series with a Versace, Moschino, Balmain, and
history. We’re thrilled to bring partnership with the late Karl Giambattista Valli as part of its
a dazzling array of Rabanne Lagerfeld in November 2004. strategy to make high-fashion
designs to our customers with this The collection will be launched in more accessible.
sensational collaboration.”

Mango opens store in Indonesia


Zakir Hossain

Mango, one of Europe’s leading to feature the Mediterranean- as an online presence through
fashion groups opened a new inspired store concept, New Med. our own ecommerce and other
store in the Park Mall Semarang, in It showcases brand’s spirit and marketplaces.
Central Java province, Indonesia freshness.
Mango has been present in Asia
Architectural integration and since 1995, when the company
sustainability are key in this new committed to the Asian continent
design, which conceives the with store openings in Singapore
Mango store as a Mediterranean and Taiwan, to which the markets
home with different rooms in of the Philippines, Thailand, China
which warm tones and neutral and India were later added.
colours predominate, combined
Mango currently has over 450
with traditional, artisanal,
stores in Asia, including company-
sustainable and natural materials,
owned stores and corners in
such as ceramic, tuff, wood,
department stores, and it has been
marble, sparto grass and leather.
carried out by combining company-
At the end of 2022, they had owned and franchise stores, corners
Figure: Mango opens store in Indonesia. 17 stores in Indonesia, as well in department stores.

90 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

Consumers interested in
customizable clothing
to reduce industry's
environmental impact:
US Study
Rahbar Hossain

Researchers from US’ Penn The research findings propose However, the study acknowledges
State Smeal College of Business that the adoption of a mass certain limitations, such as
have disclosed that consumers customization approach can the predominantly Western
are willing to pay more for enable companies to maintain background of the participants.
customizable clothing and profitability while simultaneously
Dan Guide stressed that the
keeping these items for a longer diminishing their environmental
next steps in this research would
duration, potentially reducing the footprint.
involve more inclusive outreach
fashion industry's environmental
“Our business school and, in to bring the study's findings into
impact. The study -- led by
particular, my supply chain practical application.
Dan Guide, Smeal’s chaired
department does a lot of work
professor of operations and
with companies. So, when we “While the basic idea
supply chain management, and
talk to managers and engineers, I is applicable to many
Aydin Alptekinoglu, professor
would feel very comfortable going other industries with
of operations and supply chain
into those businesses and those significant interest in mass
management --was published
plants and telling them this is a customization, like auto
in the Journal of Operations
way that you can make money and furniture, the current
Management.
while still doing well. I love that supply chain structures
The study underscores the notoriety message for companies,” Guide and consumer behavioral
of ‘Fast Fashion’ in contributing to added. dynamics in those industries
environmental pollution, primarily can be vastly different. So,
In one part of the study, 237
due to its use of cost-effective, expanding to other product
undergraduate students were
plastic-based synthetic materials categories while respecting
randomly assigned to assess
known as polymers. those differences might be
the impact of different levels
very useful,”
Fast fashion items are often of customer involvement in the
discarded quickly, adding to design, production, and usage
landfill waste, and the presence of T-shirts on their willingness
of complex polymers complicates to pay for and retain the items.
recycling efforts, as stated in a In another part of the study,
press release from Penn State. involving 501 participants from the
United States, various methods Aydin Alptekinoglu
Dan Guide, the corresponding
of customer involvement in mass Professor of Supply Chain and
author, articulated the study's
customization were explored. Operations Management at The
central question: How can
businesses offer a diverse range The researchers point out that Pennsylvania State University
of products without incurring the necessary technology for
significant initial manufacturing customization is already available. Ashley Stadler Blank, an assistant
costs? The overarching objective is Customers can personalize professor of marketing at Xavier
to encourage consumers to retain products through online platforms, University, and Margaret Meloy, a
their clothing items for a more and adaptable manufacturing marketing professor at Penn State
extended period, thereby reducing technologies like 3D printing can Smeal was the co-authors of the
disability. facilitate large-scale customization. paper.

92 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Presents

October 2023
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 16, Issue 10 l Pages 95 to 124

“Innovative technology
can reduce energy cost of
BD’s spinning industry”

Md. Khorshed Alam


Director, BTMA and
Chairman, Little Star
Spinning Mills Ltd

October 2023

World Mastering the art Bangladesh sees


Cotton Day: of dyeing nylon: 68.05% growth in
‘Cotton is techniques and cotton waste export
good’ insight during Jul-Sep in FY 24
JOIN NOW
SETTING A NEW STANDARD IN MORE
SUSTAINABLE COTTON PRODUCTION
Launched in 2020, the U.S. The Trust Protocol provides
Cotton Trust Protocol was brands and retailers the
designed to set a new standard critical assurances they need to
in more sustainably grown show the cotton fiber element
cotton, ensuring that it of their supply chain is more
contributes to the protection sustainably grown with lower
and preservation of the planet, environmental and social risk.
using the most sustainable and
responsible techniques. It is Trust in a smarter
the only system that provides cotton future.
quantifiable, verifiable goals
and measurement in six key
sustainability metrics and
article-level supply chain
transparency. Learn more +
become a member
TrustUSCotton.org
ST Editorial

Bangladesh’s apparel accessories


and packaging industry becoming
a global sourcing hub
Arif–Uz–Zaman

Figure: Bangladesh has made significant progress in manufacturing garment accessories and packaging materials.

Bangladesh has made significant progress in export earnings of $15 billion by 2030, in line with
manufacturing garment accessories and packaging Bangladesh's RMG sector's larger $100 billion export
materials, meeting 90 percent of the demand of the earnings target. Essentially, the growing demand for
export-oriented garment industry. Entrepreneurs Bangladeshi-made garments in the global market has
have recognized the huge potential of this backward laid a strong foundation for the country's accessories
linkage industry to become a primary sourcing hub and packaging industry.
for global buyers.
According to BGAPMEA, its member factories
In the 80s when garment exports started have invested about $4.50 billion in this sector.
through an organization, there was no accessory Although many of the factories in the accessories
manufacturing company in the country. Although and packaging sector are small to medium sized,
the garment industry started to develop, its back- prominent apparel and textile manufacturing
end accessories and packaging industry were not companies such as Mondal Group, Envoy Group,
developed in the country, so all types of accessories Dekko Legacy Group and Well Group have invested
and packaging had to be imported from abroad. substantially in this sector.
As time was spent on importing accessories and
Bangladeshi manufacturers are actively setting up
packaging products at international prices, the cost
state-of-the-art factories and implementing state-
of production also increased.
of-the-art machinery to produce eco-friendly goods
The sector produces more than 30 items including and packaging items. However, government policy
cartons, backboards, neckboards, hang tags, price support is crucial to seize the export potential of the
tags, barcodes, polybags, collar inserts, butterflies, accessories sector and increase direct exports to
collar bones, sewing threads. , tapes, elastics, printed global markets.
and woven labels, zippers, stickers, hangers, buttons,
drawcords, drawstrings, interlinings, tissue paper,
padding, quilting, barcodes, embroidery, gum tapes
and stoppers.
According to sector leaders, more than two thousand
Author:
garment accessories and packaging factories have
Arif–Uz–Zaman
been built in the country. The working manpower is
Manager
more than 0.7 million. Exports averaged $7 billion in
Business Process Analyst
the last few years. Out of this, about $1 billion worth
Textile Today Innovation Hub
of products are exported to more than 21 countries.
The sector has set ambitious targets, aiming for

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 97


October 2023 97 ST Editorial 106 Exhibition Review
An initiative of Textile Today Bangladesh’s apparel accessories Yarn Expo Autumn 2023 in China
and packaging industry becoming was trend-setting for global cotton
a global sourcing hub yarn market

The Team
99 Cotton Today
107 Interview Story
Tareq Amin World Cotton Day: ‘Cotton is good’
“Innovative technology can
Founder & CEO
reduce energy cost of BD’s
100-102 Textile Today spinning industry”
Analysis
Amzad Hossain Monir 108 Textile People
Head of Business Development

Rahbar Hossain
Business Development
Bangladesh sees 68.05% growth
in cotton waste export during Jul-
Recover™ appoints Anders
Sep in FY 24
Sjoblom as Chief Executive Officer
SN Abdullah
Nurnahar Akter 102 Collaboration Today 110-111
Arif-uz-Zaman Experts Views
Research & Development TextileGenesis partners with
International Cotton Association
towards an advanced textile industry
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Engagement & Communication
103 Collaboration Today Mastering the art of dyeing nylon:
techniques and insights

Yeasin Mia
Graphic Design 111 Cotton Today
Brazil on track to be world's 2nd
largest cotton exporter

Zakir Hossain Macy’s joins US Cotton Trust


Executive, Web & IT Protocol to strengthen sustainability 112 Innovation in
Fiber Technology
HYPERTOP: The Future of Carding
Ashraful Alam
104-106 Advertorial
Cinematographer Cotton Today
114
Australian cotton exports thriving
Md. Emon
amid global shortages
Video Editor

116 Export
Diversification
Md. Ariful Islam Rieter increasing recycled content
Md. Masudur Rahman Leather goods industry requires a
with improving yarn quality
Abir Basak robust supply chain
Editorial Contributions

Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 999 748
E. [email protected]
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
C o t t o n To d a y

World Cotton Day:


‘Cotton is good’
Arif-Uz-Zaman

October 7 is World Cotton Day has people. In the fiscal year 2022- countries.
been celebrated for the third time 23, $46.99 billion were earned
Bangladesh ranks 40th as a cotton
with the theme 'Cotton is Good'. from the textile sector. Apart from
producing country in the world.
The Cotton Development Board that, 84% of our foreign exchange
There are four types of cotton
has also celebrated the day for earnings come from the garment
cultivated in the world, Gossypium
the second time in Bangladesh. sector. Considering these, World
hirsutum, Gossypium berbadense,
Cotton is an industrial crop of Cotton Day is very important for
Gossypium arboreum and
international standard, known Bangladesh.
Gossypium herbaceum. Gossypium
worldwide as 'white gold'.
Cotton is a very important hirsutum, and Gossypium arboreum
Currently, the textile and apparel cash crop in the world. Cotton are cultivated in our country.
sector are the main export and is cultivated annually in more
In the fiscal year 2020-2021,
foreign exchange earning sector than 70 countries of the world's
176286 bales of cotton were
of Bangladesh. About 80-85 lakh tropical and temperate regions
produced in Bangladesh. The
bales of fiber cotton are required on 33-35 million hectares of
Cotton Development Board
annually for the 450 spinning land, which is 2.5 percent of the
has started a mega project
mills of the textile sector in world's cultivated land but still
for research, conservation,
Bangladesh, the bulk of which is fulfills 27 percent of the world's
infrastructure development and
met by imports from abroad and textile sector. More than 100 million
expansion of cotton cultivation
this demand is increasing. About households directly produce cotton.
along with cotton and other
Tk 25-30 thousand crore have to
Among the countries represented natural fibers. About 20%
be spent every year to import this
in cotton production are India, of Bangladesh's demand for
amount of cotton.
China, USA, Pakistan and Brazil. cotton production has been
At present, only 3 percent of the Bangladesh is the second cotton undertaken by 2041. Initially 2.5
demand is met domestically, the importing country in the world. lakh hectares of cultivable land
remaining 97 percent of cotton has Countries from which cotton is has been earmarked and research
to be imported from abroad. More imported are 37% from Africa, projects have been taken up for
than 3500 Garments and other 26% from India, 11% from C.I. S. development of improved varieties
sectors of ready-made garments countries, 11% from USA, 5% from and hybrid varieties of cotton.
directly involve about 4.5 million Australia and 10% from other

Top 5 Cotton Prodducer


India China USA Brazil Pakistan

Gossypium Gossypium Gossypium Gossypium


Hirsutum Barbadense Arboreum Herbaceum
» Cultivation in more than 70 countries
» 33-35mn hectares (2% of cultivated land
Figure of cotton import of Bangladesh
from different Countries
» Fulfills 27% of the world's textile sector
37%
» Bangladesh ranks 40th in Cotton production
27%
» Bangladesh imports 80-85 lakh bales
» Only 3% of the demand is met domestically 11% 11% 10%
» Bangladesh is 2nd cotton importing country 5%

» 1,76,286 bales of cotton were produced in 20-21 Africa India C.l.S USA Australia Other

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 99


Te x t i l e To d a y A n a l y s i s

Bangladesh sees 68.05%


growth in cotton waste export
during Jul-Sep in FY 24
Akhi Akter & Ahosanuzzaman Roni

Bangladesh's Cotton and Cotton Bangladesh is on track to achieve Bangladesh generates around
Product (Yarn, Waste, Fabrics its export target of $460 million 4,00,000 tonnes of cotton waste
etc.) export performance has for cotton and cotton products a year. If recycled, it could be
exceeded the strategic target by for the entire fiscal year, as it has used to manufacture exportable
20.88% to $125.45 million in July already achieved 27.27% of the garments worth $6 billion.
to September period in 2023-24 target in the first three months. However, most of the cotton waste
Fiscal Year (FY) which is 68.05% is being exported for its high price,
The data also shows that
higher compared to the same driven by a higher demand.
Bangladesh's export of cotton and
period of the previous FY.
cotton products for FY 2022-23 However, the country’s apparel
makers need to keep in mind that
Statistic Value the EU will not buy garments from
Export for 2022-23 $411.12 million factories which do not use cotton
Export Target of 2023-24 $460.00 million waste from 2030.
Strategic Target for July-Sept’23 $103.78 million Annually $400 million worth of
Export Performance for July-Sept’23 $125.45 million cotton waste is exported from
Export Performance for July-Sept’22 $74.65 million
Bangladesh. The Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and
% Change of export Performance over Strategic Export Target 20.88%
Exporters Association (BGMEA)
% Change of export Performance July-Sept’23 Over 68.05% has already urged the government
to ban the export of cotton waste
Figure 1: The data shows the strategic target and export performance of cotton and
cotton products (yarn, waste, fabrics, etc.) for Bangladesh in the first quarter of the fiscal
so that such raw materials are
year 2023-24 (July-September 2023), compared to the previous fiscal year. (Source: readily available in the domestic
Export Promotion Bureau-EPB) market for local garment
manufacturers.
The Cotton and Cotton Product was $411.12 million.
export (which is known cotton “As more use of cotton waste
The EPB also expressed optimism
waste category) was $74.65 means more value-addition and
that Bangladesh would be able
million during July to September more employment as the demand for
to achieve its export target of
period in 2022-23 FY. garments made from cotton waste
$460 million for cotton and cotton
is rapidly increasing worldwide," said
The export performance for the products (cotton waste) for the
Vice President, BGMEA.
first quarter also suggests that current fiscal year, as well as
market share in the global textile “A cotton waste collection hub
industry would be expanded. needs to be built so that there is
no waste of valuable materials,”
Demand for cotton waste is
he said. He also requested the
growing worldwide with increased
government to waive the VAT on the
perception among end consumers
sale of cotton waste in the country.
on the sustainable use of garments
through recycling. Some local factories have already
started producing garments from
Consumers in the West shifting
cotton waste.
from fast fashion to sustainable
fashion. Bangladesh’s textile and “Spinners are not getting adequate
apparel industry should more focus amounts of cotton waste as the
Figure: Bangladesh sees 68.05% growth
on recycling. They can easily grab generation of cotton waste has
in cotton waste export during Jul-Sep in
FY 24. the market recycling cotton waste. been low over the last couple of

100 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Te x t i l e To d a y A n a l y s i s C o l l a b o r a t i o n To d a y

years,” said Mohammad Ali Khokon,


President of the Bangladesh Textile Demand for cotton waste
Mills Association. is growing worldwide

Many local mills are producing


yarn mixing virgin cotton Bangladesh generates around
with cotton waste. In 2019, 4,00,000 tonnes of cotton
waste a year
Bangladesh's garment factories
and fabric mills produced
approximately 577,000 tonnes of BD exports $400 mn worth If recycled, BD can earn
of cotton waste annually $6 bn from cotton waste
cotton waste, according to the
Circular Fashion Partnership project
led by Global Fashion Agenda, in BD’s T&A industry should EU policy emphasizes
partnership with Reverse Resources more focus on recycling using cotton waste

and the BGMEA.


Of the volume, almost half was recycled within Bangladesh, cotton around 15 percent, therefore saving
100 percent pure cotton. If it was imports could have decreased by $500 million, as per the project.

TextileGenesis partners with


International Cotton Association
towards an advanced textile industry
NA Tania

Last month, the International Cotton A key aspect of this collaboration association and deeply involved
Association (ICA) entered into a involves the ICA sharing information across the value chain in settling
memorandum of understanding regarding companies that have trade arbitrations, providing
(MoU) with TextileGenesis, failed to meet arbitration awards. them unparalleled insights into
underscoring their commitment to companies that don’t fulfil their
TextileGenesis will utilize this
fostering a strong partnership. arbitration commitment. It’s one
information to notify its users
of the key components of risk
about these non-compliant
metrics that we alert our users on
entities, as outlined, both parties
TextileGenesis. ICA cooperates
said in a joint press release.
closely with major cotton standards
ICA president, Tim North said, that we partner with creating
"TextileGenesis is a world leader in further synergies between us.”
textile value chain traceability. This
TextileGenesis is a pioneering
memorandum of understanding
traceability platform custom-
with the ICA means that all those
built for the fashion and textile
engaged in the cotton supply
ecosystem.
chain—from field to fashion—will
be aware that they might be Also, ICA has formal commitment
Figure: TextileGenesis partners with the dealing with a company that the and bilateral agreement on safe
International Cotton Association towards
an advanced textile industry. Courtesy:
ICA has labelled not safe to trade trading with Better Cotton (BCI)
Collected with. We look forward to working and existing MoUs with China
together to promote the ethical Cotton Association (CCA), China
business practices, sustainability, National Cotton Exchange (CNCE),
This MoU serves as a catalyst for
and sanctity of contracts amongst Cotton Association of India (CAI),
enhanced collaboration between
all our members.” Aid by Trade Foundation with its
the two organizations, facilitating
Initiative, Cotton Made in Africa
digital cooperation in the realms of Besides, Amit Gautam, CEO
(CmiA), International Textile
ethical trading and sustainability, & founder of TextileGenesis
Manufacturers Federation (ITMF),
with the overarching goal of said, “ICA is the world’s leading
and U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.
advancing the textile industry. international cotton trade

102 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Figure: Macy's, Inc. has become a member of the US Cotton Trust Protocol, affirming its commitment to transparent sourcing practices.
Courtesy: US Cotton Trust Protocol.

Macy’s joins US Cotton Trust Protocol


to strengthen sustainability
Sayed Abdullah

Macy’s Inc. has joined the US Management Solution. sustainability objectives with
Cotton Trust Protocol, a leading an unwavering commitment to
In a testament to its dedication to
sustainable cotton program. The fostering ongoing improvement in
a more sustainable and equitable
retail giant is now on a mission six critical sustainability metrics:
future, Macy’s has integrated its
to source over 50 percent of its land use, soil carbon, water
sustainability endeavors with the
private brand cotton products management, soil loss, greenhouse
social purpose platform ‘Mission
sustainably by the close of 2023. gas emissions, and energy
Every One.’ This synergy seeks
efficiency.
By partnering with the Trust to contribute to a world where
Protocol, Macy’s aims to every stakeholder benefits from Through the program’s integration
revolutionize its supply chain environmentally responsible of sustainability metrics from
transparency while championing practices. Field to Market’s Fieldprint
positive social and environmental Platform, participating growers
Keelin Evans, the Vice President
change within the cotton industry. can now assess the environmental
of Sustainability at Macy’s Inc.,
Macy’s commitment includes impact of their operations and
emphasized the company’s resolve
sourcing both US Cotton and identify opportunities for future
to embed sustainability across its
Protocol Cotton, exclusively enhancements.
global value chain, stating, “We
cultivated and harvested on the
expect that more than half of Macy’s Inc. is setting a new
farms of Trust Protocol producers.
cotton products within our private standard in the retail industry
What sets this initiative apart is brand lineup, managed by Macy’s by actively pursuing a more
the robust tracking system that sourcing team, will be sustainably sustainable and transparent cotton
ensures the accountability and sourced by the end of 2023.” supply chain. This partnership
transparency of every Protocol with the US Cotton Trust Protocol
The Trust Protocol stands
cotton bale as it traverses exemplifies its commitment
out as the sole sustainable
the supply chain, courtesy of to a greener, fairer, and more
cotton program that combines
the Protocol Consumption responsible future for fashion.
measurable and verifiable

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 103


Advertorial

Rieter increasing recycled content


with improving yarn quality
Rieter Story

The production of ring yarns from blends of recycled


cotton and virgin cotton places the highest demands
on the spinning process. The Rieter ring recycling
system was developed to meet these requirements,
enabling customers to produce fine ring yarns of high
quality with a share of almost 40% recycled fibers.
Fiber blends from recycled and virgin cotton are
currently mostly processed on rotor spinning
machines. The few ring yarns are almost exclusively
available in coarse counts and with a recycled cotton
content of no more than 20%. The industry now
faces the challenge to produce fine yarns with a
higher recycled fiber content. Rieter is continuously
testing new processes and settings in addition to
developing technology components to achieve
better results in producing fine yarns with a higher
content of recycled cotton.
Figure 2: The combed recycling yarn has fewer imperfections
and a better unevenness.

are controlling the short fibers and reducing neps


and impurities. The blending of the two fiber
components was done in the blowroom with the
precision blender UNIblend A 81 for the best results.
The card C 81 can be configured and equipped
specifically for the raw material – for example, with
clothing sets specially developed for material with a
high short fiber and trash content.
The new Rieter draw frames RSB-D 50/26 offer
enhanced suction for cleanliness, even in the
calender area, resulting in longer cleaning cycles
Figure 1: Disturbing short fibers and neps are combed out with
the comber E 90.
and fewer thick places. When recycled fibers are
processed, four-fold doubling can be supportive.
Cooperation with recycled fiber manufacturer Here, an additional web nozzle improves web guiding
Recover and guarantees fault-free operation with a high
During several trials, different ring yarns of fineness short-fiber content. Moreover, recycled fibers can now
Ne 30 were spun and compared with each other. be selected as an application in the expert system
They included a combed yarn made from 50% SLIVERprofessional, providing recommended settings
recycled cotton fibers and 50% virgin cotton, and for the entire machine based on raw material data.
a carded yarn made from 25% recycled cotton Removing disturbing fibers with the comber E 90
fibers and 75% virgin cotton. The Spanish company
Recover – specialized in the production of recycled The comber E 90 can optionally be used in the ring
cotton – provided the material for the trials. Black recycling systems. When combing blends of recycled
recycled fibers were chosen to better distinguish the and virgin cotton, disturbing short fibers and neps
recycled fibers from the virgin cotton. are removed (Fig. 1). This makes it possible to
increase the share of recycled fibers in the blend. The
Adapted settings and components assumption that combing removes a large part of the
The biggest challenges in spinning recycled fibers recycled fibers was disproved. Only the particularly

104 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Card VARIOline
Card with RSB-ModuleVARIOline
VARIOline
VARIOline Card
Card Card
Card Card with
Card RSB-Module
Card
Card
with with
withRSB-Module
RSB-Module
RSB-Module
Rotor Winder
Autoleveler
Autoleveler
Autoleveler Autoleveler Autoleveler
Autoleveler
Autoleveler
Autoleveler
ration Comber SERVOtrail
Roving frame
Roving
Rovingframe
frame SERVOlapSERVOlap
SERVOlap
Ring, Compact CombingRoving
preparation
Combing
Combing
frame
Ring, Comber
preparation
preparation
Compact SERVOlap
Comber
Comber
with ROBOspin Combing
SERVOtrailpreparation
SERVOtrail
SERVOtrail
Air-jet
Roving frame
RovingRoving
frameframe
Roving SERVOlap
frameComberRing, SERVOlap
Compact
Ring,
SERVOlap Compact
Ring, Compact
SERVOlap Combing preparation
SERVOtrail
Combing
Combing
Combing
Ring, Compact
Ring, with Comber
preparation
preparation
preparation Comber
ROBOspin
Compact
Ring, Compactwith Ring,
Comber
Comber
SERVO
ROBOspin
with ROBOspi C
Draw frame
Draw frame
Draw frame Draw frame Draw frame
Draw Draw
Drawframe
frame frame
g process
Tearing process
Tearing process Tearing process Tearing process
Tearing
Tearing
Tearing process
process
process

BaleBale
MgmtBale
BaleMgmt
Mgmt Mgmt Palletizer
Advertorial Exhibition Review

material was significantly darker compared to the


carded position with 25% recycled content, even
after the combing process. In the combed ring yarn,
the recycling percentage reached 38%, which is
higher than in the carded recycled yarn.
Ring spinning machine with Q-package
For optimal processing of recycled fibers on a
ring spinning machine, special fiber feeding in
the drafting system is required. Drafting should
generally be as controlled as possible. Trials on the
ring spinning machine showed advantages for the
use of the Active Cradle with a stepped nose bar.
Figure 3: The ring spinning machine with Q-Package delivers the For finer yarns from Ne 20 and above, an additional
best results for recycled fibers.
pressure bar (pin) can be used (Fig. 3). The result is
short fibers, which interfere with the process, are an improvement in unevenness as well as a reduction
combed out of the blend. in imperfections.
In the test with 50% recycled content, the noil The ring recycling systems which include the comber
extraction was at 24%. At the same time, unevenness are very promising when the share of recycled fibers
and imperfections were both significantly improved is increased, and fine yarn counts are produced.
(Fig. 2). This quality advantage can also be used to Several internal studies as well as customer results
additionally increase the recycled content. Visually, validate that combing has a positive effect when
the combed fiber blend with the black recycled processing recycled cotton blends.

Yarn Expo Autumn 2023 in China was


trend-setting for global cotton yarn market
NA Tania

The cotton yarn market is projected to nearly double in Convention and Exhibition Center (Shanghai).
value from 2023 to 2032. Yarn Expo Autumn 2023, took
The event emphasized sustainable and efficient
place in Shanghai, presented more than 100 exhibitors
textile production, with cotton yarn being a link
showing the significance of the cotton yarn market.
between fibre and fabric.
To meet the dual challenges of sustainable industry
development and economic recovery, every
product along the textile supply chain needs to be
produced with efficiency, performance, fashion, and
sustainability in mind. As the intermediary between
fibre and fabric, yarn is definitely a key link.
Across 27,000 square metres of floor space featuring
more than 500 individual booths, cotton yarn
enterprises constitute around one-fifth of the total.

Figure: Yarn Expo Autumn 2023 in China was trend- The Asia-Pacific region remains a dominant power in
setting for global cotton yarn market. the global yarn and fibre market, yet the emphasis on
With participants gearing up for the Yarn Expo eco-friendly, functional, high-quality, and fashionable
Autumn 2023, the value of China’s highly skilled labor products has increased. This is reflected across
force, advanced manufacturing technologies, and the fairground’s diverse range of product and
extensive distribution network – the most sought-after exhibitor categories, where buyers from both China
attribute for global players – was as apparent as ever. and further afield will congregate for the sourcing
As Asia's largest and most comprehensive yarn season. In addition to cotton yarn, major zones
and fibre trade platform, the fair leveraged China's included chemical fibre, fancy yarn, linen & ramie
strengths as a dominant player in the global yarn yarn, wool yarn, cashmere yarn and overseas yarn.
market, while also attracting major overseas suppliers. Yarn Expo Autumn was organized by Messe
During the three-day show from 28-30 August 2023, Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Sub-Council of Textile
over 500 exhibitors gathered in Hall 8.2 at the National Industry, CCPIT.

106 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Interview Story

Figure: Md. Khorshed Alam, Director, BTMA and Chairman, Little Star Spinning Mills Ltd
with the team at 22nd Textech Bangladesh International Expo 2023.

“Innovative technology
can reduce energy cost of
BD’s spinning industry”
BTT Interview

Md. Khorshed Alam, Director, That is a major problem now.” “So that for value addition, if the
BTMA and Chairman, Little fabric that is made in our country is
“Now the exports and orders are
Star Spinning Mills Ltd. is an used and the rest is imported from
getting quite satisfactory, it can be
iconic leader in Bangladesh’s China and our local mills develop
said that it is quite good compared
textile spinning industry. In 1972, them, then they can improve
to the last three to four months.
Khorshed Alam has started his greatly,” he expressed this hope.
But there may be some shortfall
textile business and in 1986 he
for exports if the shortage of gas As a way out, he said to Textile
initiated his spinning business.
power increases. Now due to the Today, as the price of electricity is
Recently, at the 22nd Textech shortage of gas power, the BMRE very high in Bangladesh now, the
Bangladesh International Expo project can't be done,” he added. only way to solve this is by moving
2023, he shared with Textile Today on to energy-efficient machinery
“Since the repayments cannot be
the recent challenges the textile and innovative processes. By doing
made to the bank, due to the lack
industry is going through and the this, 18%-20% of electric power
of gas and electricity, everyone is
way outs. can be saved. By taking innovative
worried about new projects, but
measures we can save 4.5
Md. Khorshed Alam said, “The these are closed for now."
kilowatts per hour of electricity.”
textile spinning industry has been
He also said, "The Chinese have
suffering from lack of gas and Khorshed Alam expressed that by
maximum stalls in this fair. Here
electricity.” spreading this idea of innovative
is their collection of various dyes,
technology Bangladesh’s textile
“Many of our textile mills are chemicals and fabrics. 40% of the
spinning industry can minimize its
closed due to shortage of fabrics they have brought are new
energy costs. A maximum of about
electricity and gas. That means fabrics, which are not made in our
22% electricity savings can be
30%-40% of the mills are actively country. But our country should
achieved in textile mills.
running and the rest are closed. also take such initiatives."

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 107


Te x t i l e P e o p l e

Recover™ appoints Anders Sjoblom


as Chief Executive Officer
Sjoblom Joins the Fast-Growing Leader in Disruptive Circularity
after more than a decade at the H&M Group, most recently as Global
Managing Director of H&M Lifestyle Brands
NA Tania

Recover™, the leading materials product quality and transparency. brands, and vendors in the world.
science company and scale
The appointment of Sjoblom The company opened the
producer of sustainable, high-
follows Recover’s recent world’s largest technically
quality recycled cotton fiber and
appointment of Matthew Neville advanced facility for
cotton fiber blends, appointed
as the company’s first global chief mechanically recycling
Anders Sjoblom as the company’s
commercial officer to build a cotton fiber in the
global chief executive officer,
customer-centric sales team and country of Bangladesh in
which will be effective from
provide exceptional customer focus. 2022, adding to existing
January 1, 2024.
facilities in Spain and
Olof Persson, Recover chairman
Pakistan and a planned
and former chief executive officer
facility in Vietnam.
of the Volvo Group said, “These
leadership changes enable Recover
to focus on ensuring operational “Recover is fundamentally
and financial excellence while transforming the apparel
continuing to innovate and lead and textiles industries from a
disruptive change for the apparel sustainability perspective with its
and textile industries.” innovative recycled cotton fiber
and cotton fiber blends. It offers
“Anders has an outstanding track
a much-needed and proven scale
record of having successfully
solution to meaningfully reduce
scaled global businesses while
environmental impact while
driving growth and brand awareness,
delivering a high-quality product
while Alfredo will return to his roots
and empowering consumers to
as he focuses on strategic product
drive a more sustainable future,”
vision and innovation.”
said Sjoblom.
Recover has perfected the art and
Recover is at the forefront
science of scaled production of
of its industry, developing
sustainable recycled cotton fiber
differentiated, cutting-edge
over more than 75 years across
solutions to meet the needs
Figure: Anders Sjoblom, CEO, Recover™ multiple generations of the Ferre
of global retailers and brands.
family in Spain.
My focus will be on delivering
Sjoblom is a seasoned executive
Now, Recover is supported by these outstanding solutions with
who will join Recover from the
leading institutional investors excellence. I am proud to take
H&M Group where he is the
including STORY3 Capital, on the chief executive officer
global managing director for H&M
Goldman Sachs, Fortress role and thrilled to have the
lifestyle brands.
Investment Group and Eldridge opportunity to lead Recover’s
Concurrent with Sjoblom’s Industries, among others. exceptional team, he added.
appointment, fourth-generation
The company offers plug and Its premium, environmentally
family steward of Recover, Alfredo
play supply chain integration, friendly, and cost-competitive
Ferre, will transition to a newly
technical support, flexible products are created in partnership
created role of chief product and
applications, and collaborative with the supply chain for global
innovation officer allowing his full
innovation around circularity retailers and brands, offering a
focus on continued innovation and
and serves some of the largest sustainable solution to achieve
technical leadership at Recover
and most recognizable retailers, circular fashion for all.
inclusive of ensuring unparalleled

108 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Experts Views

Mastering the art of dyeing


nylon: techniques and insights
Md. Rahat Ullah Rashed, Head Of Technical Support At Taiwan Persotex Corp.

When it comes to creating vibrant, eye-catching


SO2CH3
colors in fashion, nylon is a popular choice. But here's
the catch: dyeing nylon is a bit like solving a colorful H2O
N N
H2O
puzzle. Let's take a closer look at the world of nylon OH2
dyeing and demystify the techniques that bring C O O
those stunning hues to life. O
Cr
O SO3H
The nylon challenge: O O
NaO3S N N
N N

C.l. Acid Blue 159


(1:1 metal Complex SO2CH3

C.l. Acid Blue 159


(2:1 metal Complex

Figure 2: Metal complex dyes.

3. Adding dye and levelling agent to dye bath:


The dye and leveling agent are introduced into
the dye bath at a pH level of 8, which promotes
uniform dyeing. When the pH of the bath becomes
acidic, the dyes begin to attach themselves to
Figure 1: Structure of Nylons. the fibers. Consequently, if we add the dye in an
acidic environment, the dye molecules won't have
Nylon, a tough and versatile synthetic fiber, has
sufficient time to evenly disperse throughout the
a unique trait—it's not very fond of water. Picture
dye bath, resulting in uneven dyeing. It's important
trying to make it absorb color like a sponge; it's not
for the leveling agent to be nonionic, but in an
as simple as it sounds. So, how do we tackle this
acidic environment, it should become cationic.
challenge? Let's roll up our sleeves and get creative.
When the dye bath becomes acidic, both the
1. Prepping the nylon: We must carefully prepare leveling agent and fiber become cationic. Since dye
the nylon before beginning the coloring process. molecules are naturally anionic, they are attracted
This include removing any dust and silicone-based to both the fiber and leveling agent. However, as
spinning oil. Although silicone oil is frequently the fiber has a higher ionicity than the leveling
used as an antistatic additive in nylon, it can affect agent, the dye molecules become fixed to the fiber.
coloring. To remove it, we use an emulsifier in an Essentially, the leveling agent prevents the rapid
alkaline solution. The alkaline solution will help to and haphazard fixation of dye molecules onto the
break down the silicone oil and make it easier for fiber, ensuring consistent dyeing. In this context,
the emulsifier to remove it from the nylon. the term "retarding agent" is a more accurate
2. Choosing the right dyes: description than "leveling agent."

Selecting the right dyes is crucial to control shade


variation. Among pre-metallized acid dyes, the Levelling agent Dye Fiber

1:2 variety is more stable and preferred over the (+) (-) (+)
1:1 type. Opting for 1:2 pre-metallized acid dyes
offer several advantages, including improved Figure 3: Metal complex dyes.
colorfastness, richer colors, and enhanced tinctorial
strength. In terms of stability, 1:1 metal complex 4. Heat things up: The dye bath needs to be
dyes are best at a pH range of 3.5-4, while 1:2 heated to the temperature specified by the dye
dyes shine when the pH is around 4-4.5. To use manufacturer, typically in the range of 95-98°C
pre-metallized acid dyes, dissolve them in water 5. Keeping the pH in Check: To maintain the
according to the manufacturer's guidelines. appropriate pH level of the dye bath for 1:2

110 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


C o t t o n To d a y Experts Views

complex dyes, it should be kept within the range so using the fixing agent can lead to a reduction
of 4 to 4.5. Achieving this can be accomplished by in the desired softness characteristic. Certain dye
introducing acetic acid into the dye bath. However, molecules are unable to establish ionic bonds with
in our country's context, using acid donors like the fiber and instead adhere weakly to the fiber
glycol is not a viable option. Glycol releases H+ ions through van der Waals forces. These dyes are more
as the temperature rises. In the event of unforeseen prone to being washed away, leading to a decrease
circumstances causing a drop in steam, the release in colorfastness and overall dye retention.
of H+ ions will also be impeded. Without an
In short for achieving a good result in nylon dyeing
adequate supply of H+ ions, the fixation of dye will
here are some tips:
be hindered, resulting in inconsistent color shades
from batch to batch. It's worth noting that the 1. Achieving uniform dyeing:
initial pH of the water is crucial when utilizing acid Utilize a nitrogen-based leveling agent during the
donors to avoid batch-to-batch shade variations. dyeing process.
6. Dyeing time: The dyeing time depends on the 2. Avoiding color discrepancies between batches:
desired color depth. Nylon is dyed at temperatures
Opt for more resilient 1:2 dyes.
around 95-98°C.
Ensure the maintenance of the correct pH.
7. Thorough Rinsing: After dyeing, the nylon
undergoes thorough rinsing with water to remove 3. Enhancing colorfastness:
any excess dye. Ensure effective fixation.
8. Applying a finishing touch: Execute the appropriate pretreatment.
A fixing agent can be employed to establish a 4. When reprocessing is necessary:
protective layer that inhibits the escape of dye
Make sure to employ the suitable softening agent.
molecules. For this purpose, anionic phenol-
formaldehyde resin is utilized. In an acidic
environment at a temperature of 80°C, this resin Author
forms an ionic bond with nylon, which is cationic in
Md. Rahat Ullah
an acidic medium. However, it's important to note Rashed
that the application of this fixing agent comes at Head of Technical
a cost: it diminishes the inherent softness of the Support at Taiwan
Persotex Corp.
fiber. Polyamides are favored for their soft texture,

Brazil on track to be world's 2nd largest cotton exporter


Brazil is expected to achieve its highest-ever exportable surplus, estimated at a remarkable 5.86 million tons
Hasan Mia
According to recent data, Brazil is by 2 percent and 6.1 percent,
poised to rise in the ranks of the respectively, as outlined in
world's major cotton-exporting CEPEA's latest biweekly report on
countries. the Brazilian cotton market.
The anticipated increase in cotton Regarding exports, the United
output for the 2023-24 season States Department of Agriculture
could position Brazil to become (USDA) has lowered its export
the world's second-largest estimates for all leading cotton- Figure: Brazil on track to be world's 2nd
exporter, possibly overtaking exporting nations, except Brazil. largest cotton exporter.
the United States, according However, the country is expected
Exports from Brazil are predicted
to a report from the Center for to achieve its highest-ever
to surge by 4.9 percent, reaching a
Advanced Studies on Applied exportable surplus, estimated at a
total of 2.57 million tons from August
Economics (CEPEA). remarkable 5.86 million tons.
2023 to July 2024. The United
On the other hand, Brazil has States is projected to have its lowest In the domestic market, key
revised its own estimates upward exportable surplus since the 2015-16 players in Brazil have primarily
by 4.2 percent, setting its season, amounting to 3.32 million been focused on fulfilling existing
projected cotton output for the tons for the 2023-24 season. commitments to both local and
2023-24 season at 3 million tons. international buyers, as mounting
Within Brazil, the gap between
In contrast, both India and the cotton production and consumption freight costs and logistical
United States are expected to is projected to narrow compared to challenges take precedence over
witness declines in production the 2022-23 season. new agreements.

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 111


I n n o v a t i o n i n F i b e r Te c h n o l o g y

HYPERTOP: The Future of Carding


Up to 0.5% good fiber savings
Graf Story

Graf is introducing HYPERTOP, a new flexible flat fewer imperfections and a constant quality over an
which will sustainably change the efficiency of extended lifetime.
carding. With its patented multi-zone setting pattern
Another advantage of this setting pattern is its
and optimized tooth geometry, HYPERTOP offers
tendency to facilitate removal of short fibers, waste
unparalleled good fiber savings of up to 0.5% while
and elimination of neps.
ensuring constant and optimal yarn IPI values.
Remarkable performance
Carding is often referred to as “the heart of spinning”.
To optimize the efficiency of this crucial process, Graf Hamboya Tekstil in Turkey is one of the first
developed a flexible flat which significantly improves customers to implement HYPERTOP on its carding
good fiber savings by up to 0.5%. machines.

HYPERTOP demonstrates one of the fastest The new flat delivered on its promises and beyond:
paybacks. It can be used for the processing of the the company witnessed a clear improvement of yarn
whole range of short-staple fibers. values and good fiber savings of 0.32%. HYPERTOP
opens a new era in carding technology. With a
Unique design
payback period of less than one month, HYPERTOP
HYPERTOP features an innovative multi-zone setting is the best way to invest money for more efficiency
pattern, a strong wire and optimized tooth geometry and profitability.
(Fig. 1).
“We can confirm that the new HYPERTOP flat from
This new design offers the right balance between Graf is a very good development for us users. In
high force absorption and sufficient flexibility to limit addition to the payback at the end of the lifetime, we
fiber damages. The change from straight PRODUCT also notice a positive result concerning yarn values.
NEWS ∙ GRAF gaps to a gapless pattern processes The tests we have carried out have clearly shown this
the fibers with growing intensity, further optimizing result. We would like to particularly emphasize the
the good fiber savings to reach up to 0.5%. It also very good result regarding the saving of good fibers
ensures optimal and gentle defibering resulting in by 0.32%." Ender Dogaç, Mill Manager, Hamboya Tesktil

112 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


C o t t o n To d a y

Australian cotton
exports thriving amid
global shortages
Nurnahar Akter

There are some positive signs for program, which is close to 37 As Australia again enters an El
the 2024 Australian cotton crop percent of Australian cotton, reads Nino there are mixed expectations
with global demand increasing a release. for the 2024 crop. Growers with
while major competitors are facing irrigated cotton are already
A closer relationship with
crop shortfalls due to seasonal planning their water budgets to
Indonesia and Malaysia, which
conditions. ensure good soil profiles for their
now account for more than 20% of
crops while dryland growers are
On World Cotton Day, cotton all Australian cotton exports, has
weighing up their options and
merchants and shippers reported been made possible by the ATMAC
hopeful of rain to provide extra
a higher level of engagement with program.
incentive to plant.
buyers from multiple countries
Other highlights include Turkiye,
while emerging markets are Cotton industry forecasts for
Bangladesh, and Thailand,
stepping up their orders. the 2023-24 crop range from
importing close to 15 percent of
4–4.5 million bales with ABARES
In 2023, raw Australian cotton was Australia’s total export offering.
latest outlook for natural fibers
exported to 16 different markets
With a positive review, Adam Kay, forecasting the gross value of
with Vietnam, a country targeted
CEO of Cotton Australia said, “Our cotton production to fall to $3.2
by Australian cotton merchants
farmers have virtually sold-out of billion, down 8 percent from the
under the federal government’s
the 2023 crop to merchants and estimated $3.5 billion in 2022–23.
Agricultural Trade and Market
indications are we have forward
Access Cooperation (ATMAC) Besides that, Global cotton prices
sold about a third of our 2024
are expected to increase by 2
crop with prices of $700 per bale
percent in 2023–24, driven by
remaining steady. The industry was
expected higher consumption and
also in talks with India to double
lower global production.
the Free Trade Agreement’s 50,000
tonnes of tariff-free cotton.” Despite macroeconomic factors
dampening demand for cotton
However, there is still some caution
overall, farmers have some cause
about the demand for cotton from
for optimism. He said: “Our
China. However, there is no formal
sustainability efforts are making
change in the trade relationship.
a major impact and overseas
Regarding this, Spellson, Head of buyers want our cotton because
cotton for ADM trading Arthur of its reputation for quality, colour,
said, “We know Australian cotton and strength. The efforts of our
is being shipped into the country, Cotton to Market team are also
but we don’t know how much being recognized with more
is being cleared by customs for brands demanding our cotton for
Chinese mills. We continue to work their consumer items because of
with buyers from all over the world our environmental outcomes and
and our merchants have done an our strategic roadmap to achieve
Figure: Australian cotton exports excellent job marketing our cotton sustainable target area, stated
thriving amid global shortages. to new and emerging markets.” Adam Kay.

114 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


RAP - Ring Frame Auto Piecing

State-of-the-art Shorter auto piecing Increased


automation for cycle time with productivity through
manpower reduction piecing rate of precise piecing -
of up to 60% up to 80/hr Efficiency > 90%

As
As Human Piecing
Human Piecing - AHP
- AHP
Export Diversification

Leather goods industry


requires a robust supply chain
S. Hossain

A seminar on "Linking Bangladesh


to the global value chain” was Leather Products & Footwear
organized on the sidelines of the » Country’s 2nd largest export sector
2023 edition of the Bangladesh » Govt declared it as a thrust sector
Leather Footwear and Leather
Goods International Sourcing Total factories
» 264 factories
Show (BLLISS) where experts
» Of them, 90 are large
opined that Bangladesh should
go for integration into the global Top 10 export destinations (FY22)
value chain to make use of the
big worldwide market for leather USA 26% Netherland 6%
products and footwear. France 10% Japan 6%
Firms that received
LMG certification
A robust supply chain can India 8% Poland 4% » Apex Tannery
improve a country's international
Germany 7% Canada 4% » RIFF Leather
competitiveness and attract foreign » ABC Leather
investment, so that Bangladesh China 6% Spain 3%
should also focus here, they said in
the seminar held on 13 October.
last six years, he said. and Leather Goods International
The three-day exposition jointly
Sourcing Show (BLLISS).
organized by the commerce Export Scenario of leather
ministry and the Leathergoods products Bangladesh is now delivering
and Footwear Manufacturers shoes, wallets, sandals, belts,
In FY 2021-22, it’s earning from
& Exporters Association of accessories, flip-flops and different
exports at $1.25 billion was the
Bangladesh (LFMEAB) held at types of boots to several leading
highest in a decade. Unsurprisingly,
the International Convention City global retailers, including Fila,
in the last fiscal (FY2022-23), the
Bashundhara in the capital. Deichmann, Timberland, Aldo,
government expected a 15.64 per
H&M, Marks and Spencer, s.Oliver
The country has everything that cent year-on-year export growth
and Wolverine.
it would need for the global from this sector. However, the
footwear industry's backward expectation could not be fully met, There are now 264 factories in the
linkage, but still it is failing to as the export earnings fell short country of which 98 percent have
register a growth in exports of of the target of $1.44 billion by 1.5 received compliance status. These
leather products and footwear, Mir percent. factories are directly employing
Ehsanul Huq, Commercial Director 200,000 lakh people.
However, according to the
of Amann Bangladesh Limited, LFMEAB data, the share of exports The challenge is longer lead times
said at the seminar. to the US has grown to 26 percent, for domestic producers, who take
The industry has increased its with over 18 million pairs of shoes 90 to 100 days compared to 45 to
capacities and competitiveness worth $453 million being exported. 60 days in competitor countries.
over the years and the LFMEAB Bangladesh's footwear exports to Higher value addition, product
and the Government have been India have also seen a massive 434 diversification, and emerging
working to tap the potential percent increase in the past five design capabilities had enabled
to become a cost-effective, years, it added. the industry to begin shifting away
sustainable, and reliable from only low-price products.
international manufacturing hub "If we can do it [develop area-
in leather products and footwear based tannery industries], the There are about 64 local leather
value chain, said Hasnat Md Abu preservation, processing and use goods companies in Bangladesh,
Obida, Managing Director of the of leather would go up. Because including Apex Footwear, Jennys
Maf Shoes limited. it will develop as a big industry Shoes, and Bay Footwear that
for us," said Prime Minister Sheikh export various items, mainly to
About 120 new factories have been Hasina while inaugurating the Japan, the EU, and to some extent
established in the industry in the Bangladesh Leather Footwear of the US.

116 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Figure: Karthikeyan K S (Second from right), CEO, Proklean Technologies and Syed Iqbal Rizvi (Left), Managing Director,
Sameet Dye-Chem Ltd signed an MoU on behalf of the respective companies.

Proklean partners with Sameet


Dye-Chem to promote sustainable
alternatives for Bangladesh’s textile
Sayed Abdullah

Recently, Chennai-based probiotic specialty mention, Bangladesh's textile industry is the leader
chemicals company, Proklean Technologies Private in sustainability and natural fiber i.e., cotton,”
Limited and Sameet Dye-Chem Ltd. have announced Karthikeyan K S added.
their partnership and collaboration agreement.
Iqbal Rizvi said, “Sameet Dye-Chem is always passionate
This partnership will enable Proklean Technologies about sustainability and providing sustainable chemical
to enter the Bangladesh textile market with its solutions to the textile industry. And I am really optimistic
non-toxic and biodegradable pre-treatment, dyeing about our collaboration with Proklean.”
auxiliary, and finishing products.
“As my company is already working to provide
In the signing event, Karthikeyan K S, CEO, Proklean natural dyes for the industry – so, we are thrilled with
Technologies and Syed Iqbal Rizvi, Managing our new partnership. Proklean manufactures fully
Director, Sameet Dye-Chem Ltd signed an MoU on natural products of probiotic origin, which makes the
behalf of the respective companies. products 100% bio-degradable, natural and non-
toxic. This can replace or reduce the use of currently
Sameet Dye-Chem Ltd. is well known for providing
used chemicals – not only in textiles – but in many
sustainable textile chemical solutions.
industries as well,” Iqbal Rizvi added.
For the past more than 9 years, Chennai-based
Vishwadeep Kuila, Co-founder and Director Sales &
probiotic specialty chemicals company Proklean
Marketing, Proklean Technologies – who was also
Technologies Private Limited has been offering
present at the signing ceremony – said, “Fashion
unique probiotic technology-based green chemicals
brands are putting sustainability as the vital
for the textile industry. Their products are completely
benchmark. Here, Proklean Technologies role is
bio-degradable, naturally derived, environmentally
paramount – as our probiotic-based solutions are
friendly and non-toxic.
not confined to textile or leather – rather we can
Karthikeyan K S said, “We partnered with Sameet indefinitely extend them to any other solutions. That
Dye-Chem Ltd. as we believe that the company can is where the value of this company”
rightly represent Proklean i.e., sustainably likeminded
Founded in 2012, Proklean Technologies has a wide
to the customers the way we want.”
range of textile chemical ranges like pre-treatment,
“Bangladesh is the second-biggest textile dyeing auxiliary and soaping, and finishing stages,
manufacturing market. Proklean really wants to and comprises eco-friendly products that help to
accelerate its presence in the country. Not to reduce the carbon footprint of the textile sector.

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 117


Interview Story

Figure: Ahmet Bulbul, the General Director of ARM KIMYA in Turkey.

Turkish chemical company


ARM KIMYA takes center
stage in Bangladesh
BTT Interview

During the 22nd Textech range of ready-to-use chemicals, in Uzbekistan and the United
Bangladesh 2023 International which encompass everything from States, enabling them to export
Expo, Ahmet Bulbul, the General silicon oils to antibacterial agents their diverse range of chemical
Director of ARM KIMYA in Turkey, and fixing agents. products to over 30 countries
shared insightful details about around the world.
Notably, they also participated in
his company in an interview
the denim expo, underscoring their Although officially founded
with Textile Today. ARM KIMYA,
dedication to the textile sector. in 2005, ARM KIMYA's roots
a Turkish firm specializing in
With an awareness of the ongoing trace back to the year 2000,
chemicals, made its debut
shifts in supply and demand, both reflecting a wealth of experience
appearance at the event in Dhaka,
in Bangladesh and on a global in the chemical industry. Ahmet
Bangladesh, marking a significant
scale, ARM KIMYA is committed to Bulbul conveyed the company's
milestone for them in 2023.
expanding its operations to adapt determination to address the
Ahmet Bulbul extended warm effectively to market dynamics. challenges posed by low demand
wishes for the success of all the in the global market and expressed
In Bangladesh, ARM KIMYA has
exhibitors and conveyed a message their commitment to increasing
established a strong presence
of companionship to the people of production capacity and sales to
with the assistance of agents like
Bangladesh. He emphasized the meet the evolving needs of the
Dysin Chemicals, a long-standing
enduring business relationship that industry.
and influential company in the
ARM KIMYA has cultivated with
region. The partnership with ARM KIMYA's proactive approach
Bangladesh since 2015.
Dysin Chemicals ensures that and long-term vision underscore
ARM KIMYA is a prominent player ARM KIMYA's products reach a their dedication to achieving
in the textile industry, known for wide audience in the local market. sustained business growth and
its production of textile dyeing Beyond their Turkish base and the resolving global low demand issues.
auxiliaries, denim chemicals, knitting Bangladesh market, ARM KIMYA
chemical raw materials, and a wide boasts additional production units

118 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Steering Innovation

Transforming career
through innovativeness
Textile Today Innovation Hub’s ground-breaking initiatives foster
innovation and research for career
Ahosanuzzaman Roni

Textile Today Innovation Hub (TTIH) is leading “TTH motivated me to pursue R&D and innovation,
the pathway among the future textile students in shifting my focus from a conventional textile career.”
Bangladesh – through its various initiatives like
He also emphasized that his TTH project on textile
Textile Talent Hunt (TTH) inspires students to foster
waste became his Master's thesis and his Ph.D. topic.
innovation in their careers.
Md. Manjumul Huda Akand, Assistant Manager
While Setting Transformation Blueprint (STB)
(Dyeing), Epyllion Group (TTH Season 05) said,
Blackbelt program creates professionals who go
"TTH has helped me a lot to deal with all the real
through extensive Factory Skills Development and
challenges of the factory.”
professional skills development training. STB program
provides real hands-on problem-solving experience, Ayub Ali, Assistant Professor (Dept. of Textile
etc. providing students with learning, networking, and Engineering), Dhaka University of Engineering and
career opportunities in the textile industry. Technology (TTH Season 03) said that TTH has
ushered in an era of transformation, allowing students
to break away from one-dimensional thinking.
Khondaker Tahmidul Hasan, Assistant Manager
(Compliance) Marks & Spencer (TTH Season 05)
said, “Holding a position in TTH was a prime reason
for my selection as an auditor at Intertek in my first
job interview,” he said.
Md. Sadman Sakib Guest Lecturer (Dept. of IPE)
Bangladesh University of Textiles (TTH Season 07)
said that TTH helped him to implement his innovative
project in a real factory setting.
“I worked on a project with RFID Device (Radio
Frequency Identification), which finally ran in the
factory and solved the problem. It connected to
Figure: Textile Talent Hunt: Transforming career through the garments section and dyeing section which has
innovativeness.
been implemented perfectly. Direct feedback from
industry experts with guidance from Textile Today
Recently, at TexTIMe Episode 24 – a Textile
Supervisor, played a pivotal role in overcoming
Today initiative webinar featuring TTH alumnus
challenges and ensuring the project's success.”
– participants testified how these revolutionary
programs shaping the careers of textile engineers. Md. Tanveer Hossain, Lecturer, BUTEX (TTH Season
07) said, “Engaging with students from various
They said initiatives like TTH, STB Blackbelt and
Textile Institutions and providing training on research
Textile Today Training arm future textile engineers/
methodology proved to be immensely valuable.”
young professionals with the right tools and
mindset. Thus they are able to solve various industry Md. Eakub Hossen Hridoy, Asst. Product
challenges and generate career opportunities in the Development Merchandiser, Apex Holdings Ltd.
textile industry. (TTH Season 07 said that TTH helped him to get full
support from industry experts.
Dr. Mohammad Neaz Morshed, a faculty of textiles at
the University of Borås, Sweden, and the champion Tareq Amin, Founder & and CEO, of Textile Today
of TTH Season 04, said that the textile talent hunt Innovation Hub – was the moderator of the webinar.
expanded his mindset.

120 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Figure: Jay Chemical Industries has made a significant announcement to inaugurate the State-of-art 10 MW solar power generation plant.

JAY Chemical inaugurates 10 MW


solar power generation plant
Nurnahar Akter Tania

JAY Chemical Industries Private Limited, a renowned capacity, we are looking forward to continuing progress
global supplier of reactive dyes and chemicals, has and innovation in our pursuit of a more sustainable
made a significant announcement to inaugurate the and responsible approach to energy generation and
State-of-art 10 MW solar power generation plant. its usage. Together, we are making strides towards a
cleaner planet and a better tomorrow.”
With this significant step towards a greener future,
JAY Chemical aligns its commitment to reduce the JAY Chemical Industries Private Limited is a well-
Carbon footprint. diversified group and one of the world's largest
producers of Reactive Dyes today, with an annual
Besides that, with the combination of its existing
sales turnover of USD 200 Million, located in the
portfolio of wind and solar generation facilities, the
western part of India at Ahmedabad.
collective output will now account for an impressive
55% of its total energy requirement. JAY is a team of more than 1500 well-trained techno
commercial professionals with a total production
Regarding this, Greeven kharawala, Managing Director,
capacity of 40000 MT p.a. with global business in
Jay Chemical said, “As we celebrate the momentous
more than 40 countries.
occasion of adding new 10 MW Solar Power Generation

Centro Tex celebrates its 17 years journey


Sayed Abdullah

Centro Tex Ltd. – a leading Bangladesh with around 3000 I believe that we have been
manufacturer and supplier of employees. Under the leadership blessed from the very beginning.
apparel companies in Bangladesh of Thsan Uddin Khan, Chairman, Congratulations to us all for all
– celebrated its 17th founding Centro Group, the group’s apparel that we have achieved so far.”
anniversary in a grand manner on sourcing and designing company.
Centro Tex Ltd. achieved many
17 October.
Tahsin Uddin Khan, Chairman, certifications from world-
Tahsin Uddin Khan, Centro Tex Centro Group expressed his renowned organizations such
Ltd's Chairman and its top officials feelings. He said, “I will start off as BSCI, SEDEX, WCA, BW,
were present at the event. by expressing my gratitude to GOTS, OCS, OEKO-TEX, RCS,
all of my partners without whom BCI GRS, ISO, LEED and most of
A decade into its journey, Centro
all of what we have achieved so the partners are also RSC (RMG
is now a leading apparel sourcing
far would’ve been impossible, Sustainable Council) listed.
and manufacturing company in

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 121


Experts Views

Significance of sodium
sulphate in textile dyeing
Shahriar Taha, Managing Director, Remex Corporation Ltd

Sodium sulphate:
In 1625, Johann Rudolf Glauber made the discovery
of sodium sulphate from Austrian spring water. As a
result, its hydrate form became known as Glauber's
salt. Recognizing its medicinal properties, he named
it sal mirabilis or "miraculous salt."
One-third of the world's sodium sulphate is produced
as a by-product in the chemical industry through the
reaction of sodium chloride and sulphuric acid:
2 NaCl + H2SO4 → 2 HCl + Na2SO4.
While the 70% is obtained through mining.
Uses of Sodium Sulphate
Sodium sulfate is a highly versatile compound that
finds extensive usage in diverse industries including
detergents, textiles, pulp and paper, leather and glass
manufacturing. As an essential chemical substance,
its import trends in countries like Bangladesh reflect Figure: Significance of sodium sulphate in textile dyeing
the country's economic growth and industrial
fabric fibers, ensuring consistent color penetration
development.
throughout the fabric surface.
Sodium Sulphate in detergent industry:
Secondly, it helps control pH levels during dyeing to
Sodium sulfate, which serves as a filler in detergent maintain optimal conditions for color development
powder, allows for the necessary adjustment of and prevent damage to fabrics.
the concentration of active ingredients in the
Thirdly, it acts as a stabilizer by preventing hydrolysis
detergent. Its addition ensures that the detergent
reactions that can lead to loss of color vibrancy.
powder can flow smoothly and prevent clumping.
Without sodium sulfate, the detergent would easily Fourthly, it aids in the exhaustion of dyes onto
agglomerate into a solid mass. the fabric by maintaining ionic balance within the
dyebath solution. This increases dye utilization and
Sodium Sulphate in glass industry:
reduces waste.
Sodium sulfate serves as a fining agent, aiding in
Lastly, sodium sulphate acts as a fixing agent to
the elimination of tiny air bubbles from liquid glass.
ensure that dyes remain permanently attached to
Additionally, it acts as a flux for the glass, preventing
textile fibers even after multiple washes or exposure
the formation of scum during the refining process.
to external elements like light or chemicals. This
Sodium sulphate in textile industry: contributes to long-lasting colorfastness and
The significance of sodium sulphate in textile dyeing durability in dyed fabrics.
processes cannot be overstated. Its properties and Import volume and trends
functions play a crucial role in textile dyeing.
The import volume of sodium sulphate in Bangladesh
Functions of sodium sulphate in textile dyeing experienced a decline last year. According to import
process data, it reached 700k MT in the year 2022-2023,
Sodium sulphate has several important pr operties compared to 808k MT in the previous year. The
and functions in textile dyeing processes. decrease in import volume can be attributed to
global economic issues that affected overall imports.
Firstly, it enhances the affinity between dyes and
The main sources of these imports are China, India,

122 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


Indonesia & France. Among them, China is the PROVINCE – 360 MT DAY
leading supplier with an 81% market share due to its
• SATERI (JIUJIANG) FIBER CO., LTD – JIANXI
competitive pricing strategy. India accounts for a
PROVINCE -400 MT DAY
9% share of the imports while Indonesia holds an 8%
share. • SATERI (JIANGSU) FIBRE CO., LTD – JIANGSU
PROVINCE – 350 MT DAY
Market Competition
• SATERI (YANCHENG) FIBRE CO., LTD – JIANGSU
The market competition for imported sodium
PROVINCE – 300 MT DAY
sulphate continues to be intense among suppliers
globally. Chinese manufacturers, with their extensive • SATERI (FUJIAN) FIBRE CO., LTD – FUJIAN
production capabilities and economies of scale PROVINCE – 380 MT DAY
advantages, offer competitive prices. However, other APR (Asia Pacific Rayon)
countries such as India have also made significant
Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) is the pioneer in Asia
efforts to gain a larger market share by providing
for producing fully integrated viscose staple
quality products at competitive rates. Additionally,
fiber. APR specializes in producing 100% natural
Indonesia has recently become highly active in the
and biodegradable viscose fibers derived from
market.
plantations grown and harvested in Indonesia.
Sateri
Located in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau, Indonesia, APR
Sateri is an international frontrunner in the operates a mill with a capacity of 240,000 tonnes
production of viscose rayon, known as the largest per year. They are dedicated to responsible sourcing
manufacturer of this fiber worldwide. With six well- and efficient manufacturing processes. Additionally,
established mills dedicated to the production of APR is a significant producer of Sodium Sulphate
viscose, they boast an impressive annual capacity of Anhydrous – a byproduct of viscose production.
1.8 million metric tonnes.
APR has been operating actively in the Bangladesh
In addition to being a key player in the viscose market since 2017. Despite entering late, they have
market, Sateri also takes pride in their leading role as successfully gained popularity within a short period
a manufacturer of Sodium Sulphate Anhydrous – a of time due to their competitive pricing and swift
by-product derived from the production process. deliveries from Singapore. Their partner, Primera
This further solidifies their standing as a major Resources Singapore, ensures prompt service that
contributor within the industry. effectively satisfies customer needs.
Sateri has been a renowned brand in Bangladesh APR SSA production
for over a decade. Its reputation is well-established
•APR Pangkalan Kerinci -Riau – Indonesia - 500 MT
among major dyeing houses and detergent
DAY
manufacturers who comfortably use this brand.
The brand's competitive pricing, combined with Sateri and APR are both part of RGE, also known
its commitment to maintaining consistent product as Royal Golden Eagle, Indonesia which manages
quality by regulating the pH and hardness, makes it a group of world-class companies in the resource-
an ideal choice for textile dyeing purposes. Moreover, based manufacturing industry.
Sateri ensures that its products reach customers on Remex Corporation Ltd., takes great pride in its
time through excellent logistics services provided by long-standing representation of two renowned
partners like J&C and others. brands, Sateri (through J&C Industries) and APR
Overall, Sateri's dedication to sustainable practices (through Primera Resource Pte.,Ltd). For additional
and their production of high-quality viscose fiber & information, please visit our website at www.
Sodium Sulphate Anhydrous solidify their position remexcorp.com.
as leaders in the industry both in Bangladesh and
globally.
Sateri SSA production details
Moreover, Sateri holds ISO9001 and ISO14001
certifications for all their factories, indicating
that they meet globally recognized standards for
quality management systems and environmental
management systems respectively.
• SATERI (CHINA) FIBER CO., LTD -JIANGXI
PROVINCE -500 MT DAY
• SATERI (JIANXI) FIBER CO., LTD – JIANXI

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023 123


BUFT ‘Textile Talent Hunt
8.0’ seminar highlights career
transformation through innovation
Mashia Sahejabin

The recently held ‘Textile Talent national competition of Textile Syed Mohammad Ismail, Country
Hunt 8.0’ seminar at BGMEA Talent Hunt. Director, Archroma (Bangladesh)
University of Fashion & Technology Ltd. said, “I am always attached to
Textile Today Innovation Hub
(BUFT) highlights career Textile Talent Hunt – because me
launched the 8th season with a
transformation through innovation. and my company – Archroma is
broader coverage and focus. That's
really passionate about innovation.
The seminar – which was joined why BUFT Textile Club organized
And we at Archroma always want
organized by BUFT Textile Club this motivational program for
to create a new generation of
and Textile Today Innovation Hub all, where the Honorable Pro
talent for the textile industry.”
(TTIH) at the multipurpose hall VC of (BUFT) Prof. Dr. Engineer
of BUFT campus – proposes to Ayub Nabi Khan was present as Abdullah Al Mahmud, DGM and
unlock all the information textile the Chief Guest. In his speech, Head (Garments Washing &
students need to know about he encouraged the students to Denim), Dysin Chem Ltd. gave
the upcoming Textile Talent Hunt participate in the textile talent valuable speech on textile talent
(TTH) 8.0 competition – on career hunt competition. hunt as a Guest of Honor.
transformation, career change
Tareq Amin, Founder and CEO of “Textile industry plays a vital role
and this exciting journey of textile
Textile Today, was also present in our nation’s economy. And
excellence through innovation as a
as the keynote speaker on the such events help us in innovating
textile graduate.
occasion. He briefed on the Textile the day-to-day issues and the
Textile Talent Hunt is a special Talent Hunt. future leaders who will lead the
flagship program of Textile Today industry in the coming days. As
Tareq Amin said, "We will execute
Innovation Hub, which aims to well as, building a more sustainable,
all the innovation projects by
inspire innovation across the efficient and vibrant textile
involving the industry extensively
textile industry and unearth the industry,” Abdullah Al Mahmud said.
and connecting with all the leading
brightest talent of innovative mind
input suppliers - solving practical “We at Dysin Group always believe
sets to bring about moderniza
and critical day-to-day problems that innovation is the key to staying
tion, innovation in the apparel
of the industry," he added. ahead in the rapidly evolving global
industry.
fashion market,” he added.
Syed Ismail, Country Director,
In the previous season, 40
Archroma Bangladesh Ltd. was On behalf of Faculty of Textile
institutions actively participated,
present as a special guest. He Engineering and BTC Club, Pro VC
5500 students attended seminars
briefed the students on the of BUFT, Prof. Dr. Engineer Ayub
on campuses and 3416 textile
requirements of Textile Talent Hunt. Nabi Khan handed over the crest
students registered for the
to the guests.

124 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2023


1) Pendant modified new age fluid system provides
better softness with bounce for unique hand -feel

2) Hindered chemistry resulting in min/no shade


Weft change or drop in whiteness

3) Bounce with super soft finish

4) No/little effect on the fastness of the


Warp substrate-Wash/ water fastness for reactive
printed and pigment printed fabric

0 0.5 1 1.5 5) Min reduction in dry rubbing fastness pigment


printed fabric
Finished - wet Unfinished -wet
Unfinished - dry 6) Special emulsifier system ensures higher
FABRIC 405 VISCOSE REACTIVE PRINTED FABRIC
exhaustion of actives on the fabric
ULTRAFAB LSS - 30 GPL
D/W PADDING, DRIED AT 150°C
7) Substrate finished with Ultrafab LSS doesn't
2 MIN hamper the phenolic yellowing

You might also like