Video Camera Parts and Functions Guide
Video Camera Parts and Functions Guide
• The video camera is the single most important piece of production equipment.
• Other production equipment and techniques are greatly influenced by the camera’s
technical and performance characteristics.
• Although the electronics of the television camera have become increasingly complex but
to produce an optimal image, there is no need to be a skilled electronics engineer- all you
need to do is press the right camera buttons.
• A video camera is a camera used for electronic motion picture acquisition, initially
developed for the television industry but now common in other applications as well.
• The Camera Head containing the camera’s image sensors and all related electronic
circuits.
• The lens that transmits light into the camera body and forms the image on the camera’s
image sensor.
• The viewfinder that allows the operator to compose the elements making up a shot and
also often provides a visual interface with the camera’s various controls.
HOW VIDEO CAMERA WORKS
• All video cameras, work on the same basic principle, the conversion of an optical image into
electrical signals that are reconverted by a television set into visible screen images.
• Specifically the light that is reflected from an object is gathered by a lens and focused on the
imaging or pick up device. The imaging device is the principal camera element that converts the
light in to electrical energy.
• The imaging or pick up device consists of a small solid state device normally called CCD, (Charged
coupled device).
• The CCD contains hundred of thousands of image sensing elements, called pixels (a word made
up of pix, for picture and els, for elements), that are arranged in horizontal and vertical rows.
• These electrical signal travels to the recording section. The current creates a small magnetic field
which is recorded on the magnetic coating of the tape. To view the image the process is reversed.
The magnetic field on the tape creates an electrical current which is used to generate the picture
in the viewfinder or in television or monitor.
PARTS OF VIDEO CAMERA
• The video camera is central to all television production.
• It is mandatory for the cameraperson to know the camera intimately, it is important for the
producer to have an in-depth knowledge about the camera in order to get the best from the
videographer/cinematographer.
• Auto/manual on/off
• Microphone
• Lens Hood
• Focus ring
• Zoom ring
• Gain Control
• Tally light
• Camera back VTR connector, video output, camera cable, monitor video output, gunlock
connection
• Battery pack
A complex button, the on/off button has many functions put together in one place. The
red button is the record button. It enables us to record and to pause during shooting.
Many cameras also provide the camera on/off switch along with the recording button
• Viewfinder
It allows us to see what we are recording. Almost all models provide us the play back and
• LCD viewfinder
New versions have LCD viewfinder. A small screen that allows us to see what we are
recording in color.
• Zoom
The two way zoom button enables us to zoom the camera lens in and out. It is mostly
marked ‘T’ and ‘W’.
• Internal Mic
• Recording levels
Most of the professional models have a drum that we can use to modify the level of audio.
• White balance
The white balance button enables the camera to see all blacks as blacks, all whites as
• Exposure/aperture
This button helps to increase or decrease the aperture levels so that the picture can
Camera Functions
• Most domestic camcorders can do just about everything automatically. All you have to do is turn
them on, point, and press record. In most situations this is fine, but automatic functions have
some serious limitations.
• If you want to improve your camera work, you must learn to take control of your camera. This
means using manual functions. In fact, professional cameras have very few automatic functions,
and professional camera operators would never normally use auto-focus or auto-iris.
• Although auto-functions usually perform well enough, there will be some situations they can't
cope with (e.g. bad lighting conditions). In these circumstances you may be faced with unusable
footage unless you can take manual control. More commonly, your shots will be useable but poor
quality (e.g. going in and out of focus).
• Your camera can't know what you want. To get the best results or obtain a particular effect it is
often necessary to over-ride auto-functions and go manual.
• As you learn more about camera work you will begin to appreciate the better results gained
through manual functions.
Zoom
• The zoom is the function which moves your point of view closer to, or further away from,
the subject. The effect is similar to moving the camera closer or further away.
• The two most common zoom mechanisms are
Manual zoom (ring)
This is a zoom ring on the lens housing which is rotated manually, typically by the left
thumb and index finger.
Advantages: Speed (you can do super-fast zooms); doesn't require power (so no drain on your
battery).
Disadvantages: More difficult to control; harder to get smooth zooms.
Servo zoom (lever)
This is a lever which sits on the lens housing. It's usually positioned so that when you slide
your right hand into the grip belt, the servo zoom will be sitting under your first two fingers.
Pressing the front part of the lever zooms in; pressing the rear part zooms out. Cheaper
cameras usually have a constant zoom speed, whereas a good servo zoom will have variable
speed -- the further you depress the lever, the faster the zoom. The lever may have labels such
as T and W (tele and wide).
• There's an important characteristic of zoom lenses that you should be aware of: The
further you zoom in, the more difficult it is to keep the picture steady. At very long zooms,
a tripod is essential. If you're having trouble keeping your shot steady, it may be possible
to move yourself closer to the subject and then zoom out. This way you'll have essentially
the same framing, but much steadier.
• Zooming is the function everyone loves. It's easy and you can do lots with it, which is why
it's so over-used. The most common advice on using the zoom is use it less. It's a great
tool in moderation, but when most of your shots are zooming in and out, your audience
will feel nauseous.
• As a rule, don't zoom unless there is a reason to. If you want to show both the whole
scene as well as some close-up details, you don't need to have a zoom in. Instead, shoot
a wide shot, stop recording, zoom in to a close up, and then start recording again. The
result is one shot which cuts cleanly and quickly to another, portraying the same
information as a zoom, but more efficiently.
Focus
• To give all the attention to something.
• Auto-focus is strictly for amateurs. Unlike still photography, there is no way auto-focus
can meet the needs of a serious video camera operator.
• Many people find manual focus difficult, but if you want to be any good at all, good focus
control is essential.
• Professional cameras usually have a manual focus ring at the front of the lens housing.
• Turn the ring clockwise for closer focus, anti-clockwise for more distant focus. Consumer
cameras have different types of focus mechanisms — usually a small dial.
• To obtain the best focus, zoom in as close as you can on the subject you wish to focus on,
adjust the ring until the focus is sharp, and then zoom out to the required framing.
• Sharp : In focus
• Depth of Field : The range of distances from the lens at which an acceptably sharp focus
can be obtained
• Pull focus : Adjust the focus to a different point during a shot
• If the picture loses focus when zoomed out, check the back-focus and make sure the
macro focus is not engaged.
• If you're really struggling with low-light focus, and you can't add more lighting, try these
things:
• If your camera has a filter wheel, make sure you're using the correct low-light filter.
Remove any add-on filters.
• If your camera has a digital gain function, try adding a little gain (note: this compromises
picture quality).
• Professional cameras have an additional feature called zebra stripes which can help you
to judge exposure.
• Practice is the only way to get exposure right. Record a number of shots in different light
conditions, then play them back and see how good your exposure was. Remember, if
you're not sure about your exposure, try flicking the iris to auto and see what the camera
thinks, then go back to manual. In time, you'll come to trust yourself more than the auto-
iris.
Gain
• Gain is used to amplify signal strength in low-light conditions at the cost of picture
quality. It creates picture noise. The unit is dB.0dB, 3dB, 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 15dB, 18dB.
Backlight
• A common difficulty with exposure is what to do in uneven lighting situations. The "strong
backlight" scenario is a headache -- this is where your subject is set against a much
brighter background, as in the pictures below...
• In the first example, the camera is set to auto-iris. The camera adjusts the exposure for
the strong backlight, which leaves the subject as a silhouette. Some cameras have a
"backlight" feature which helps with this problem, but it won't work as well as manual iris
control.
• Assuming that you can't change your framing or add more lighting to the subject, the only
option is to open the iris until the subject is exposed correctly.
• This will mean the background is too bright, but it's better than the subject being too dark.
In the second example, the manual iris is opened until the subject is correctly exposed.
• Although this is still far from ideal exposure, it's an improvement on the silhouette effect.
In fact this situation is quite common -- on television you'll often see an outside window
which looks too bright, but you don't usually notice because you're watching the subject
inside.
• Remember, the rule of thumb for iris control is: Set your exposure for the subject.
Everything else is secondary.
How to adjust Video Camera Viewfinder
• This page deals with black and white electronic viewfinders (EVFs), although colour
viewfinders work in basically the same way.
• Different cameras have various options for adjusting the EVF. Consumer camcorders are
usually limited to making focus/sharpness adjustments, whereas professional cameras
have numerous options. Work through the following procedures, ignoring the functions
which aren't available on your camera.
• The messages which appear in the viewfinder can give you valuable information. Learn
what they all mean.
• If your viewfinder is fogging up, hold your eye slightly away from the eyepiece. Also, limit
your intake of fluids - this reduces perspiration, which is what causes the fogging.
• Many viewfinder eyepieces can be flipped open, allowing you to stand back from the
camera. This can be useful if you have the camera mounted on a tripod, or if more than
one person wants to look at the viewfinder. It can also help reduce eye fatigue.
Zebra Stripes
• Zebra stripes, or zebras, are a feature of professional cameras which give an indication of
exposure levels. When activated, diagonal lines appear across any part of the picture
which is approaching over-exposure.
• These lines appear only in the viewfinder/LCD — they are not output from the camera or
recorded.
• If the camera has the option to change between different zebra settings (eg 75% or 100%),
make sure you know which setting you're using, and the resulting effect.
• Use the zebras to guide your iris settings. In general, a small amount of zebras on the
hottest part of the subject is desirable. Practice and experiment with this feature. Be
aware that zebras aren't foolproof — they should be used as a guide only.
White Balance
• White balance basically means colour balance. It is a function which gives the camera a
reference to "true white" — it tells the camera what the colour white looks like, so the
camera will record it correctly. Since white light is the sum of all other colours, the camera
will then display all colours correctly.
• Incorrect white balance shows up as pictures with orange/red or blue tints, as
demonstrated by the following examples:
Most consumer-level camcorders have an "auto-white balance" feature, and this is how most
amateurs operate. The camera performs it's own white balance without any input from the
operator. In fact, very few home-video users are aware of it's existence.
Unfortunately, the auto-white balance is not particularly reliable and it is usually preferable to
perform this function manually.
How to Perform a Manual White Balance
• You should perform this procedure at the beginning of every shoot, and every time the
lighting conditions change. It is especially important to re-white balance when moving
between indoors and outdoors, and between rooms lit by different kinds of lights.
• During early morning and late evening, the daylight colour changes quickly and
significantly (although your eyes don't notice, your camera will).
• Do regular white balances during these periods.
• Activate the white balance by pressing the button or throwing the switch. The camera
may take a few seconds to complete the operation, after which you should get a message
(or icon) in the viewfinder. Hopefully this will be telling you that the white balance has
succeeded - in this case, the camera will retain it's current colour balance until another
white balance is performed.
• If the viewfinder message is that the white balance has failed, then you need to find out
why. A good camera will give you a clue such as "colour temperature too high" (in which
case change filters). Also try opening or closing the iris a little.
Prism Block
Incoming light can be passed through a small prism block.
Color encoder
This device takes the output of each of the three color channels (RGB) and recombines them into
one color signal, including both chrominance* and luminance*.
How it Works:
•Light passes through the glass and the photosensitive coating, onto the photoconductive layer.
•As light hits the photoconductive layer it causes the change on the target to change in
proportion to relative intensity of the light.
•The video signal is produced as the target is scanned by a beam of electrons
Camera lens
• Lenses work similarly to the human eye and allow to control the amount of light that
enters the camera.
• A lens is a tool used to bring light to a fixed focal point.
• A camera lens is an optical body that features a single lens or an assembly of lenses that
mounts to a camera body.
• In a Film camera the lens send light to the film strip, while in the digital camera, the lens
directs light to the digital sensor.
• In simple, lens is a curved of glass that causes light rays to bend.
• Glass is denser than the air.
• Light glows down at the point where it enters the lens.
• Inside each lens is a series of convex and concave optical elements that work together to
bend light and refract it into a single sharp focal point.
• Some lenses and interchangeable, while others are built into the construction of the
camera body.
• Lenses bend light so that it can be projected and controlled in proper focus and size at a
specific point behind the lens where a light – sensitive material record or transmit the
image.
• Simply, simple lens falls into two basic categories: Concave and Convex.
Concave lens
• Lens that possesses at least one surface that curves inwards.
• Lenses which are thinner at the center than at the edges.
• Bends light rays away from the centre of the lens.
• It is a diverging lens,that it spreads out light rays that have been refracted through it.
Convex Lens
• Lens that converges rays of light that convey parallel to its principal axis.
Compound Lens
• Modern Film and Video Camera lenses are composed of more than one piece of glass and
are called Compound lens.
• Compound lenses used in video camera and for films combine several concave and convex
lenses.
Video Camera Lens Basics
Focal length
• The distance between the optical center of the lens, and the camera sensor or film plane
when focused at infinity.
• The optical center is where light rays converge inside the body of lens.
• The focal length defines the magnification and field of view for given lens.
• Every lens has specific focal length, or magnification number, which is measured in
millimeters (mm).
• This is normally displayed on the lens itself.
• The area that lens is able to capture.
• The longer the focal length, the higher the magnification, for example a lens with a focal
length of 24mm will offer less magnification than a lens with a focal length of 200mm.
• The longer the focal length, the narrower the field of view and shorter focal lengths
capture a wider image.
• Camera lenses come in all shapes and sizes and are designed for different shooting
scenarios.
• Prime lenses have set focal length whereas zoom lenses have variable focal length.
• A basic way of understanding focal length is the magnification of lens.
• A longer lens will give a narrow image that is closer to the subject, whereas a wider lens
will capture more of the area from further back.
• Any lens with a focal length 35mm to 55mm is categorized as “standard” focal length
• This is because the human eye has similar field of view, there is a vast discussion on the
topic, and some even say a more accurate human focal length to be closer to 22mm.
• When it comes to camera lenses, your focal length will not only allow you to capture
footage with different visual properties, but those properties will change the emotional
effect the footage or image will have on the viewer.
• There are both practical and creative reasons for choosing a specific photo or video
camera lens, so understand focal length might be the most important visual tool for a
videographer or cinematographer to understand.
Why is focal length important?
• Focal length dictates what part of the image is in focus, isolating elements in either the
foreground, middle ground or background.
• The longer the focal length (in mm) the narrower the angle of view ( in degrees).
• Smaller focal length covers wider area of view.
• Angle of view describes how much of the scene in front of the camera will be captured
by the camera sensor.
• In technical terms, it is the angular extent of the scene captured on the sensor, measured
diagonally.
• Angle of view is entirely determined by both the focal length of the lens and the format
of the camera sensor.
• Different lenses of equal focal length will always have the same angle of view when used
with the same-size sensor.
• In simple terms angle of view refers to the maximum angle that lens can see, based on a
combination of focal length and camera sensor.
Aperture
• The lower the stop number…… The higher the aperture (wider the opening)
• That means T 2 is higher than a T 8. That’s because the aperture is wider, and therefore
lets in more light.
• Higher light intensity = Higher Stop number.
• Camera lenses with higher stop ratings and wider openings allow more light, which means
that cameraman can film in darker locations.
• Aperture range of a lens is expressed by the lens ratio (focal length divided by max
aperture)
• An f-stops (or f-number) is the ratio of the lens focal length divided by the diameter of the
entrance pupil of the aperture.
• The aperture is physical opening of the lens diaphragm. The amount of light that the
aperture allows into the lens is functionally represented by the f-stop.
Depth of Field
• Depth of field refers to how much of your image is in focus and more specifically the area
of acceptable focus.
• DOF is the distance between the nearest and farthest objects in a scene that appear
acceptably sharp in an image. The range of distance within which all objects will be in
acceptable sharp focus.
• It is an area in front of and behind the principle point of focus that will also be in
acceptable focus.
• A shallow depth of field will give you a blurred background, while a large depth of field
will keep everything in focus so we can see everything around us.
• DOF is as important as composition or picking a focal length.
• A large aperture (e.g. f/2) will result in one thing being in focus and the rest of the image
will be blurred. This is known as minimum DOF.
• A smaller aperture means everything is in focus (e.g. f/22). This is known as maximum
DOF.
• It is how you set the level of intimacy in a story or how you direct where the audience be
putting their focus in the frame.
• It’s the emotion, the punctuation, and the eyes of the story in filmmaking.
• The aperture is the setting that beginners typically use to control DOF.
• The wider the aperture (smaller f-number f/1.4 to f/4), the shallower the DOF. On the
contrary, the smaller the aperture (large f-number f/11 to f/22) the deeper the depth of
field.
Aspect Ratio
• Aspect ratio is the relationship between width and height of an image.
• 16:9
• 3:2
• 21:9
• 9:16
Storage Aspect Ratios
• For digital files there are two types of AR.
• The first and easiest to understand, is the storage aspect ratio, which is simply ratio of
horizontal resolution to vertical resolution.
• For example, a standard NTSC DVD has a storage AR of 1.5:1 (720/480 = 1.5:1), while a
typical PAL DVD has a storage AR of 1.25 (720 / 576 = 1.25)
Prime Lens
• A telephoto lens is a long-focus lens that allows cameraman to utilize a focal length that
is in fact shorter than the lens’ physical length.
• A telephoto lens increases focal length.
• It’s most commonly used to show far away objects with accurate perspective and with a
level of precise detail that was once only possible with close range photography.
• The advantage is that you can keep more distance between you and your subject.
• You can capture distant objects without needing to physically move.
• Disadvantages – often heavy and bulky. Only subject will appear in focus, while most of
the background and foreground will be blurry.
• Often any lens with a focal length that fall between 35mm to 24mm can be categorized
as a wide-angle lens.
• Anything between 24mm to 18mm is considered as ultra wide angle lens.
• Below 18mm enters fisheye lens territory.
• Wide angle lens has a short focal length and thus a wider field of view.
Zoom Lens
• A lens in which the image size can be varied continuously while the image remains in
focus.
• Any lens with a variable focal length.
• It can be zoomed in to transform the focal length and, therefore, the field of view.
• This magnifies or demagnifies the subject to bring them ‘closer to’ or ‘further from’ the
audience.
• It differs from prime lens which has a fixed focal length.
• Zoom lenses always feature two focal lengths in the name which indicate the shortest and
longest focal lengths in relation to the ful frame sensor.
• Zoom ratio is simply the ratio of the shortest and longest ranges of zoom lens.
• 18-55MM lens has a ratio of 0.33, or about 1:3.
• Zoom ratios have no connection to field of view, but merely express the range between
short and long.
Parafocal Lens
• A fisheye lens is a type of ultra wide angle lens that distorts the scene or subject to create
a hemispherical or wide panoramic.
• It produces a 180 degree angle of view or larger which is projected as a circle within the
image frame.
• The image is highly distorted and this will be more prominent depending on how close
objects are to the lens and where in the frame they are located.
• Distortion is annoying a lot of times, but not always. It is an advantage for the fish eye
lens.
• The distortion gives it a more abstract yet dynamic aesthetics.
• They are primarily used for landscape, artistic and extreme sports coverage.
Macro Lens
• A macro lens is a camera lens designed for capturing small subjects at a very close
distances.
• They can focus much nearer than normal lenses, allowing to fill the frame with subject
and capture more details.
• There are two important distinctions between macro lens and a regular lens.
• A macro lens increases the magnification of the subject to make it look bigger.
• They typically project a 1:1 ratio, meaning the subject appears the exact same size as it is
in real life. Some macro lenses also allow for the subject to appear bigger than their actual
size.
• Secondly, macro lenses have a shorter minimum focus distance than a regular lens.
(around 30cm)
• This means that cameraman can get close to the subject and still stay in focus to capture
as much details as possible.
• Macro lenses are best used in well-lit environment.
A piece of colored glass used with a camera to hold back some types of light.
Filters help minimize glare and reflections, enhance colors, reduce light coming into the
lens, and more.
Camera filters are transparent or translucent optical elements which are either attached
to the front of the lens or included as part of the lens housing.
Filters alter the properties of light before it reaches the CCD/CMOS (Image sensor)
Filters can be used to correct problems with light or to create certain effects.
Each lens filter serves a specific purpose, as each one is built to deliver a specific effect
that can help enhance the final look of an image.
Use caution when using a filter in a way that draws attention to itself as an effect.
Combined with all other elements of image-making, filters make visual statements,
manipulate emotions and thought, and make believable what otherwise would not be.
Filter Planning
Filter effects can become a key part of the “look” of a production, if considered in the
planning stages.
They can also provide a crucial last-minute fix to unexpected problems, if you have them
readily available.
Where possible, it is best to run advance tests for pre-conceived situations when time
allows.
This is most often outdoors, especially at high altitudes, where the UV-absorbing
atmosphere is thinner; and over long distances, such as marine scenes.
It can show up as a bluish color cast with color film, or it can cause a low-contrast haze
that diminishes details, especially when viewing far-away objects, in either color or black-
and-white.
UV filters absorbs UV light generally without affecting light in the visible region.
UV filters are also commonly used as a protective filter for lens.
Polarizing
A special type of lens/filter which removes polarized light, reducing the washed-out effect
sometimes created by reflected light.
Diffusion
Effectively blurs the image for a slightly soft look.
A mild diffusion filter can be used to soften faces (removes wrinkles etc.).