11

Yarn faults

Abstract: This chapter provides information about the various types of yarn
faults created by the raw material, preparatory process and ring frame. The
classification and analysis of seldom occurring faults and the effect of various
processing stages on classimat faults are also discussed in detail. The common
ring yarn faults with their causes and remedial measures are also provided in
this section.
Key words: Yarn faults, classimat faults, seldom occurring faults, ring yarn faults

11.1 Introduction
Despite the progress and many years of experience in spinning technology,
it is still not possible to produce a fault-free yarn. Depending on the raw
material and state of the machinery park, there are about 20–100 events over
a length of 100 km yarn, which do not correspond to the desired appearance
of the yarn. These kinds of yarn faults are places, which are too thick or too
thin (Fig. 11.1). Foreign fibres or dirty places in the yarn are also counted as
yarn faults.

Figure 11.1 Yarn faults

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 326 Process control and yarn quality in spinning

Yarn faults cause disruptions in the subsequent process stages, which

affect production and quality. Yarn faults, which get in the woven or knitted
fabric, can only be removed at very high costs or not at all. Therefore, the
yarn processing industry demands a fault-free yarn from the yarn producer.
The spinner has to fulfil these demands; otherwise he could not sell the yarn
covering his costs.
The spinner can fulfil these demands by a combination of two measures:
1. Prevent the origin of yarn faults by adequate measures
2. Remove yarn faults by the aid of yarn clearers
The measures to avoid the origin of yarn faults are numerous, mainly the
choice of the raw material, the maintenance of the machines, and cleanliness
in the spinning mill.
During the spinning process, a card sliver with about 20,000 to 40,000
fibres in the cross-section is drawn to a yarn with about 40–100 fibres in the
cross-section. During the spinning process, it is not possible to keep the number
of fibres in the cross-section constant at every moment. This leads to random
variations of the mass. Only spinning mills with a permanent improvement
process are able to keep these random variations within close limits.
These variations are measured by the evenness tester in the laboratory.
They are a measure for the unevenness of the yarn and are called imperfections.
They occur so frequently that they are not eliminated from the yarn
(Fig. 11.2). Their number is generally given per 1000 m. In contrast to the
frequent yarn faults, there are also the seldom-occurring yarn faults. The
difference between the frequent yarn faults and the seldom-occurring yarn
faults is mainly given by the larger mass or diameter deviation and size. As
these faults occur only seldom, their number is given per 100,000 (Fig. 11.2).
These faults are monitored by the yarn clearer installation on the winding.

Figure 11.2 Frequently occurring vs. seldom-occurring faults

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 Yarn faults 327

Seldom-occurring yarn faults are classified in the classification matrix

of the USTER® CLASSIMAT. Up to a length of 8 cm seldom-occurring
yarn faults are counted and/or eliminated if they exceed the limit of 100%.
Table 11.1 shows the classification matrix and the related definitions and
terminologies.
Table 11.1 Uster classimat faults

Characteristics Description
Fault classification

Fault lengths A: Shorter than 1 cm

B+TB: 1–2 cm
C+TC: 2–4 cm
D+TD: 4–8 cm
E: Longer than 8 cm
F+H: 8–32 cm
G+I: Longer than 32 cm
Fault sizes 0: +45 to +100%
1: +100 to +150%
2: +150 to +250%
3: +250 to +400%
4: Over +400%
E: Over +100%
F+G: +45 to 100%
TB1/TC1/TD1/H1/I1: −30% to −45%
TB2/TC2/TD2/H2/I2: −45 to −75%

Contd...

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 328 Process control and yarn quality in spinning

Contd...

Characteristics Description
Fault channels of N channel for very short thick places
the clearer S channel for short thick places
L channel for long thick places
T channel for long thin places
C channel for count deviations
Sensitivity Reference length
N channel: +100% to +500%
S channel: +50% to +300% 1 to 10 cm
L channel: +10% to +200% 1 to 200 cm
T channel: −10% to −80% 10 to 200 cm
C channel: ±5% to ±80% 12.8 m

11.2 Distinction between frequent and seldom-

occurring yarn faults

Figure 11.3 Positions of the frequent versus the seldom-occurring yarn faults

Figure 11.3 shows the position of the frequent yarn faults (imperfections)
in comparison to the position of the seldom-occurring yarn faults in the
classification matrix. It becomes clear that both types of yarn faults differ

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 Yarn faults 329

from each other clearly by their size, and thus cannot be compared with each
other. In addition, the areas of the clearer settings N, S, L, T, CCp and CCm
are indicated in Fig. 11.3. This shows where the settings are effective.

11.3 Causes for seldom-occurring yarn faults

The causes for seldom-occurring yarn faults can be divided in three groups:
1. Caused by raw material and card
2. Caused by the processes before spinning
3. Caused by the spinning process
The distribution of the faults can be found in the classification matrix
(Fig. 11.4) as follows:

Figure 11.4 Causes for seldom-occurring yarn faults in the classification matrix

11.3.1 Yarn faults caused by raw material and card

These faults depend on the quality of the raw material. For natural fibres,
they depend mainly on the physical properties such as fibre fineness, length
and short fibre content. For synthetic fibres, the faults depend mainly on
the disentanglement of single fibres. Insufficient disentanglement can lead
to felted single fibres, which might be caused by softeners, oil additives,
lubricants or climatic conditions.

11.3.2 Yarn faults caused by processes prior to spinning

These faults are characterized by extreme diameter variations or poor friction
of the fibres. Often, it is a matter of fibre packages, which are not caught in the
draw-box of prior processes and were not drawn apart. Therefore, they show
a big increase of the mass or diameter in the yarn.

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 330 Process control and yarn quality in spinning

11.3.3. Yarn faults caused in spinning

Most yarn faults are caused by spun-in fly in the area of the spinning machine
and by fibre residues, which cling to the draw-box or other parts of the spinning
machine and which are swept away from time to time and are spun into the
yarn. Furthermore, it is possible that different setting possibilities of the ring
spinning machine, as e.g. draft or distance settings of the draw-box, have an
influence on the number of seldom-occurring yarn faults.

11.4 Standard settings in classimat

The following standard settings should assist when setting of clearer for short
staple yarns and their blends.

11.4.1 Standard settings for the capacitive clearer

11.4.1.1 Thick and thin place settings (Fig. 11.5)

Figure 11.5 Standard settings for thick and thin places

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 Yarn faults 331

11.4.1.2 Standard settings for yarn count deviations and pearl chain
(Fig. 11.6)

Figure 11.6 Standard settings for yarn count deviations

11.5 Analysis of classimat faults

Figure 11.7 shows the typical scatter diagram from Uster Classimat Quantum.

Figure 11.7 Scatter diagram of classimat faults in Uster Quantum

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 332 Process control and yarn quality in spinning

The factors influencing the Classimat Faults in the different departments

are given in Tables 11.2–11.7.
Table 11.2 Causes of classimat faults in blow room
High influence
Can influence

Machine Influencing Effect A B C D E,F,G H,I Overall

factors Classimat
Blow room Beating point Increase in one beating point can
influence up to 30%, if there is a
rupture
Beater speed Higher speed, if rupture is there, will
influence the faults
Beater type 10/10 wire will lead to higher fiber
rupture
Traverse bar Closer than 10% of the fiber length,
to beater will lead higher faults
RH and Higher RH will lead to more faults
temperature
Lower suction Lower pressure will make the fibre
pressure stay in the beating zone and will
create A1
Higher suction Will not allow the fibres to open in the
pressure due beating zone
to higher fan
speed

Table 11.3 Causes of classimat faults in carding

Influencing Effect A B C D E, F, H, I Overall
factors G Classimat

Higher card Higher the productivity,

productivity higher Classimat

Flat to Wider the setting, higher

cylinder Classimat
setting

Flat to More the variation higher

flat height Classimat
variation

SFD Wider the setting, higher

the Classimat

Too close SFL Closer the SFL setting,

due to fiber rupture, higher
faults

Cylinder If there is no fiber rupture,

speed higher cylinder speed , low
Classimat

Trash / neps Direct impact on faults

in sliver

Wire type & File No.: P Cardnep File 16

Condition

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 Yarn faults 333

Table 11.4 Causes of classimat faults in comber

Machine Influencing factors Effect A B C D E,F,G H,I Overall
Classimat
Comber Top comb 0.5mm Depth reduction can
penetration influence up to 15%
Top comb type Can influence up to 20%
Unicomb to nipper More the gap, higher the Neps
setting
Brush height Lesser the height, higher IPI

High coiler calendar Influences up to 10%

roller load
Web cut Influences up to 15%

Head to head noil Higher the variation, higher the

Variation IPI. Up to 25%
Drafting draft Higher the draft, higher the
distribution clearer cuts
Width of the fleece Influences 15%
guide

Table 11.5 Causes of classimat faults in draw frame

Machine Influencing Effect A B C D E,F,G H,I Overall
factors Classimat
Draw Roller setting Closer setting by 2 mm can create
frame up to 40%
Wider setting by 2 mm

Break draft If the hexagonal nut for fixing the

belt slippage break draft tensioner is loose

Delivery speed More than 350, for combed counts,

the Classimat will go up

Web tension 10% effect

draft
Auto leveller If CP setting is set with wide variation,
timing it can totally damage the yarn quality
No of doubling

Table 11.6 Causes of classimat faults in speed frame

Machine Influencing Effect A B C D E,F,G H,I Overall
factors Classimat
Speed Roving stretch Will influence thin
frame
Top arm load Will have effect thin faults as
well as A1
Creel draft Higher the draft will give higher
thin
Wrong selection of Higher tension will lead to higher
winding wheel and long thin
tension wheel
Floating This can influence 10% of A1
condensers quality faults
Uniformity in top Setting variation in the front zone
roller setting top roller can influence 10%

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 334 Process control and yarn quality in spinning

Table 11.7 Causes of classimat faults in ring frame

Machine Influencing Effect A B C D E,F,G H,I Overall

factors Classimat
Ring Front top roller Setting disturbance and wider by 0.5
frame setting mm can affect the Classimat by 10%

Higher roving Higher roving TM can create slubs in

TM the yarn

Lower TM

Higher BD
Lower BD
Department Higher the temp will create more fly in
Fly and the department. Lesser the no. of air
Department changes will create A1
Temperature
Closer spacer
Ring condition

11.6 Common yarn faults in ring yarn

11.6.1 Slub yarn
It is an abnormal thick place of length 1–4 cm and about 5–8 times larger
than average yarn diameter showing less twist at that place of the yarn
(Fig. 11.8). The various causes and remedial measures for the same are given in
Table 11.8.

Figure 11.8 Slub yarn

Table 11.8 Causes and remedial measures for slub yarn

Effects Causes Remedies

• More end breaks in • Poor individualization of • Better opening and
the ensuing process fibers in the card cleaning in BR and Carding
• Damaged fabric • Lack of adequate fiber • Replace defective aprons
appearance control in the rafting region • Optimum top roller
• Shade variation in • Accumulation of fly and pressure and back
dyed fabrics fluff on machine parts zone setting at RF to be
• Improperly clothed top maintained
roller clearers • Excessive roving twist
• Defective RF drafting and • Broken teeth in gear wheel
bad piecing to be avoided and proper
• Too close roller setting meshing to be ensured

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11.6.2 Soft yarn

Yarn which is weak indicating lesser twist (Fig. 11.9). The various causes and
remedial measures for the same are given in Table 11.9.

Figure 11.9 Soft yarn

Table 11.9 Causes and remedial measures for soft yarn

Effects Causes Remedies

• More end breaks in • Cord slippage on • Vibration of bobbin on

subsequent processes spindle wharves the spindle should be
• Shade variation in dyed • Improper bobbin feed avoided
fabrics on the spindles • Proper yarn clearing
• Less twist in the yarn should be ensured

• Bad clearing at the • Periodic replacement

traveller of worn rings and
travellers

11.6.3 Oily slub

Slub in the yarn stained with oil (Fig. 11.10). The various causes and remedial
measures for the same are given in Table 11.10.

Figure 11.10 Oily slub

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 336 Process control and yarn quality in spinning

Table 11.10 Causes and remedial measures for oily slub yarn

Effects Causes Remedies

• More end breaks in the • Accumulation of oily fluff • Yarn contact surfaces
subsequent processes on machine parts to be kept clean
• Damaged fabric • Improper lubrication • Proper lubrication and
appearance • Negligence in segregation
• Shade variation in dyed segregating the oily
fabrics waste from process
waste

11.6.4 Kitty yarn

Presence of black specs of broken seeds, leaf bits and trash in yarn
(Fig. 11.11). The various causes and remedial measures for the same are given
in Table 11.11.

Figure 11.11 Kitty yarn (grey colour image)

Table 11.11 Causes and remedial measures for kitty yarn

Effects Causes Remedies

• Damaged fabric • Improper ginning i.e. • Good ginning practices
appearance seeds broken during • Cleaning efficiency of
• Production of specks ginning BR and cards should be
during dyeing • Ineffective cleaning in improved
• Needle breaks during blow room and cards • Optimum humidity in the
knitting • Use of cotton with high departments should be
• Poor performance during trash and too many seed ensured
winding coat fragments

11.6.5 Foreign matters

Metallic parts, jute flannel and other similar foreign matter spun along with
the yarn (Fig. 11.12). The various causes and remedial measures for the same
are given in Table 11.12.

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 Yarn faults 337

Figure 11.12 Foreign matters (grey colour image)

Table 11.12 Causes and remedial measures for foreign matters

Effects Causes Remedies

• Breaks during winding • Improper handling of • Removal of foreign

• Formation of holes and travelers matters should be
stains in the cloth • Improper preparation of ensured during
mixing preparation of mixing
• Damaged fabric
appearance • Installation of
permanent magnets
at proper places in BR
lines

11.6.6 Cork screw yarn

Double yarn in which one yarn is straight and the other is coiled over it
(Fig. 11.13). The various causes and remedial measures for the same are given
in Table 11.13.

Figure 11.13 Cork screw yarn

Table 11.13 Causes and remedial measures for corkscrew yarn

Effects Causes Remedies

• Breaks during winding • Feeding of two ends in • Tenters are to be trained

• Causes streaks in the the RF in piecing practice
fabric • Lashing in of ends in • Pneumafil ducts to be
RF kept clean and properly
set.

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 338 Process control and yarn quality in spinning

11.6.7 Snarl/over twisted yarn

Yarn with kinks (twisted onto itself) due to insufficient tension after twisting
(Fig. 11.14). The various causes and remedial measures for the same are given
in Table 11.14.

Figure 11.14 Snarl yarn

Table 11.14 Causes and remedial measures for snarl yarn

Effects Causes Remedies

• Entanglement with • Wrong selection if twist • Optimum twist to be used for
adjacent ends wheel the type of cotton processed
causing a break • Wrong selection of • Drafting parameters to
• Damaged fabric spindle driving pulley minimize thin places in yarn to
appearance • Presence of too many be adopted
• Shade variation in long thin places in the • Yarn should be conditioned
dyed fabrics yarn • Correct tension weights and
slub catcher settings should
be employed at winding

11.6.8 Oil stained yarn

Oil or stain marks present on the yarn (Fig. 11.15). The various causes and
remedial measures for the same are given in Table 11.15.

Figure 11.15 Oil-stained yarn

Table 11.15 Causes and remedial measures for oil-stained yarn

Effects Causes Remedies

• Damaged fabric • Over flowing of oil from • Proper oiling and
appearance spindle bolster greasing
• Occurrence of black • Excessive oil on ring • Proper material storage
spots in the fabric with intention of running and handling
the traveller smoothly
• Improper material
storage and handling
• Piecing made with oily or
dirty fingers

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 Yarn faults 339

11.6.9 Spun-in fly

Fly or fluff either spun along with the yarn or loosely embedded on the yarn
(Fig. 11.6). The various causes and remedial measures for the same are given
in Table 11.16.

Figure 11.16 Spun-in Fly (grey colour image)

Table 11.16 Causes and remedial measures for spun-in-fly yarn

Effects Causes Remedies

• More breaks • Accumulation of fluff over • Machinery surfaces is to be
in winding machine parts (captured kept clean by use of roller
between front drafting rollers pickers
and pigtail guide) • Fanning by workers is to be
• Fanning by workers avoided
• Failure of over head cleaners • Performance of overhead
• Malfunctioning if humidification cleaners and humidification
plant plants should be closely
monitored

11.6.10 Bad piecing

Unduly thick piecing in the yarn caused by over end piecing (Fig. 11.17). The
various causes and remedial measures for the same are given in Table 11.17.

Figure 11.17 Bad piecing

Table 11.17 Causes and remedial measures for bad-piecing

Effects Causes Remedies

• More end breakages in • Wrong method of piecing • Proper piecing
subsequent processes and over end piecing •S  eparators should be
• Increase in hard waste • Twisting the ends provided
instead of knotting • Excessive end
• Too close roller setting breakages in spinning
should be avoided

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 340 Process control and yarn quality in spinning

11.6.11 Crackers
Very small snarl like places in yarn which disappear when pulled with enough
tension or yarn with spring like shape (Fig. 11.18). The various causes and
remedial measures for the same are given in Table 11.18.

Figure 11.18 Crackers

Table 11.18 Causes and remedial measures for crackers

Effects Causes Remedies

• More end breaks in • Mixing of cotton of widely • Optimum top roller
winding differing staple lengths pressure
• More noticeable in • Closer roller settings • Optimum roller setting
P/C blended yarns • Eccentric top and bottom • Use of properly buffed
rollers rollers free from
• Over spinning of cottons eccentricity to be
• Non optimum temperature ensured
and RH in the spinning shed • Mixing of cottons varying
• Long fibers (bridge the nip widely in fine length to
line in drafting system and be avoided
disrupt the process)

11.6.12 Neppy yarn

Very short fault of more than 200% of the yarn diameter (Fig. 11.19). The
various causes and remedial measures for the same are given in Table 11.19.

Figure 11.19 Neppy yarn (grey colour image)

Table 11.19 Causes and remedial measures for neppy yarn

Effects Causes Remedies

• Damaged fabric • Ginning • Correct settings and speeds
appearance • Improper opening in BR in BR and cards to be
• End breaks in • Poor carding due to maintained
subsequent process improper settings • Grinding schedules to be
• Use of low micronaire maintained strictly
cottons • Avoid immature cotton
• Use of long cotton

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Yarn faults 341

11.6.13 Hairiness
Protrusion of fibre ends from the main yarn structure (Fig. 11.20). The various
causes and remedial measures for the same are given in Table 11.20.

Figure 11.20 Hairiness in yarn

Table 11.20 Causes and remedial measures for hairiness

Effects Causes Remedies

• More end breaks in • Use of cottons differing • Traveler of correct size and
winding widely in the properties in shape
• Uneven fabric the same mixing • Use of rings in good
surface • Worn rings and lighter conditions
• Beads formation traveler • Periodic replacement of
in the fabric in the • Low RH traveler
case of P/C blends • Closer roller settings • Correct roller settings
• Very high spindle speeds • Maintaining optimum RH
• Wide cotton mixing should
be avoided

11.7 References
1. Application handbook for Uster Quantum; Determination of periodic mass variations
(spectrum).
2. Booth, J.E. (1996). Principle of Textile Testing, A Butterworths Publication.
3. Classification of yarn faults & optical yarn clearing, Loepfe Brothers Ltd, Switzerland.
4. Garde A.R. and Subramanian T.A. (1978). Process Control in Cotton Spinning, 2nd
Ed., Ahmedabad, ATIRA.
5. Garde, A.R. (1980). Faults in polyester blended yarns, Proceedings of the all India
textile conference, p.74.
6. Grover, J.M., Bhargava, A.M., Purandare, M.J. and Subramanian, T.A. (1974). Some
causes of slubs in polyester cotton yarns, Proceedings of the ABS joint technological
conference, p.10.
7. Grover, J.M., Bhargava, A.M., Purandare, M.J. and Subramanian, T.A. (1973). Some
causes of slubs in polyester cotton yarns. Proceedings of the ATIRA technological
conference, p.23.

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