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Basic Weft Knitted Structures

Single jersey is the simplest weft knitted structure where all loops are drawn in the same direction, resulting in one smooth face side and one rough reverse side. It is lightweight, highly extensible widthwise, and economical, making it suitable for many garments. Rib structures have loops drawn in both directions, resulting in similar smooth appearances on both sides and excellent widthwise elasticity. Interlock structures use two yarns with loops drawn in both directions, hiding the reverse loops and producing a luxurious fabric with "V" shape on both sides but less extensibility.

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K.M.S Wijesinghe
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331 views23 pages

Basic Weft Knitted Structures

Single jersey is the simplest weft knitted structure where all loops are drawn in the same direction, resulting in one smooth face side and one rough reverse side. It is lightweight, highly extensible widthwise, and economical, making it suitable for many garments. Rib structures have loops drawn in both directions, resulting in similar smooth appearances on both sides and excellent widthwise elasticity. Interlock structures use two yarns with loops drawn in both directions, hiding the reverse loops and producing a luxurious fabric with "V" shape on both sides but less extensibility.

Uploaded by

K.M.S Wijesinghe
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
  • Basic Weft Knitted Structures Overview: Introduces the basic weft knitted structures outlining different types such as Single Jersey and Double Jersey.
  • Single Jersey Structure: Details the Single Jersey structure, its loop formation, properties, and application in garments.
  • Rib Structure: Explains the structure and variations of rib knitting with visual illustrations.
  • Interlock Structure: Covers the interlock knitting method, highlighting its loop arrangements and fabric usage.
  • Purl Structure: Describes the purl knitting technique with its loops and fabric characters.
  • Notation Systems: Explains symbolic notation systems used in knitting stitch diagrams, such as yarn path and point paper notations.

Basic weft knitted structures

Single Jersey
Plain
Purl

Double Jersey
Rib
Interlock
Single Jersey (Plain) structure

Simplest weft knitted structure.

All loops are drawn in to same direction.

Therefore all the face loops are in one side and


reveres loops are in opposite side.
Single Jersey (Plain) structure

Loop diagram

Technical front Technical back


Properties of single jersey.
 Face side appear as “v” shaped Wales and Reverse side
appear as opposed semi circles
 face is smooth and back is harsh
 Highly extensible in width wise
 Lighter fabric.
Properties of Single Jersey
 Both sides curl towards the back and both ends curl towards the
front.
 Unbalanced structure.
 Handling is difficult.
 Laddering will occur
 unraveled from both ends .
 Economical fabric.
 Use for hosiery like inner wear,
socks and all types of fashioned garments.
Single Jersey
Slub Jersey

 Weft knitted single jersey fabrics .


 Soft twisted slub yarn are used.
 Fabric dyeing is carried out in solid colors so that slub effect is
prominent
Rib structure

Appearance of both sides

Loop diagram

Loops are drawn in to both directions. The direction is


changed in to wale wise.
There are wales of all face loops and all reveres loops on
both sides
Rib structures
Rib Variations

2 X 1 Rib

3 X 1 Rib

3 X 3 Rib
2 X2 rib
2 X 1 Rib
6 x 2 rib

3 X 1 Rib
Properties of Rib structure
Both sides have same appearance
Both sides smooth
Excellent widthwise elasticity.(double as plain)
Recoverable stretch is as twice as that of plain
Thicker and heavier fabric.
Balanced fabric and do not curl at edges.
Unraveled only at end knitted last.
It ladders when stitch is broken
Use for T-shirt collars, sleeve band, and waist band,
sweaters, socks, gloves.
Interlock Structure

Loops are drawn in to both directions with


two separate yarns
At least two feeders are required to produce
one course.
Reverse wales of both sides are on the top of
each other.
Therefore reverse loops are not visible.
Interlock stitch

Loop Diagram

Appearance of both sides


Properties of interlock fabric
Both front and back have same appearance of “v”shape.

Luxurious softness.

Less extensible.

Can lay without curl

Thick heavier fabric

Can unravel only from end knitted last.


Production rate is low. Yarn consumption is high.
Expensive fabric.
Use for all types of men, women and children’s cloths .
Purl Structure

Technical front and


back appearance

Loops are drawn in to both directions and the direction is


changed in to course wise.

Face and reverse loops are in same wale.


Purl Structure

Technical front and


back appearance

Loop Diagram
Properties of Purl structure
Both sides have same appearance of reverse side.
Lengthwise extensibility is high.
Lateral stretch is similar to that of plain.
suitable for baby wear where width and length stretch is
required and also for adult knit wear blankets shawls and
scarf etc.
Notation systems

Other than the loop diagram there are two symbolic


notation systems which are used to represent knitted
stitches.

1. Yarn path diagram

2. Point paper notation

Basic weft knitted structures Single Jersey Plain Purl Double Jersey Rib Interlock
Single Jersey (Plain) structure Simplest weft knitted structure. All loops are drawn in to same direction. Ther
Single Jersey (Plain) structure Technical back Technical front Loop diagram
 Face side appear as “v” shaped Wales and Reverse side appear as opposed semi circles  face is smooth and back is harsh
 Both sides curl towards the back and both ends curl towards the front.  Unbalanced structure.  Handling is difficult.
Single Jersey
Slub Jersey Weft knitted single jersey fabrics . Soft twisted slub yarn are used. Fabric dyeing is carried out in solid
Loops are drawn in to both directions. The direction is changed in to wale wise. There are wales of all face loops a
Rib structures

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