AMT 1104-Laboratory Module 2 (Final)
AMT 1104-Laboratory Module 2 (Final)
AMT1104
AIRCRAFT POWERPLANT
I
(Reciprocating Engine)
FINAL LABORATORY
MODULE #02
“Lab. Module 6
Mid. Lec. Module 1 Installation/Actual
Familiarization of Engine Accessories: Magneto,
Harness, Spark Plugs, Induction Pipes,
Carburetor Linkages, Starter and Ring Gears, Oil
Filters and Servicing Points and Engine
Instruments.”
Prepared by:
AMT Faculty
Learning Outcomes
Course Learning
Module Learning
CLO 2. Learn different terminology used
in aviation industry. Topic Learning
CLO 3. Enumerate the different parts and
components and its function. MLO 2. Discuss the proper harness
CLO 4. Visually distinguish the parts on
Prepared by:
intake and exhaust areas.
spark plugs installation, carburetor
and cockpit linkages, ignition switch TLO 3. TLO 3. Familiarization,
CLO 6. To demonstrate and
Felix and starter mounting, engine
of Peter il M. Cael, demonstration and installation of
identify the function each mountings, and engine instruments engine accessories.
Job
parts of the engine. MEAM structor
CLO 7. To properly perform the
handling of different
TIMEFRAME:
The student should complete this
module within 12 hours and
comply with all the given
activities.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CONTENT PAGE
NO.
Cover Page 1
Learning Outcome 2
Table of Content 3
Reference 3
Accessory Housing Maintenance 4
Ignition System - Magneto Maintenance 8
Spark Plug Cleaning 11
Ignition System – Maintenance 11
Lubrication System Maintenance 14
Induction System Maintenance 21
Activity 23
Honesty Clause 23
REFERENCE:
Engine Maintenance Manual (Principal Manual) IO-360-N1A Engine (2016) retrieved from
NOTICE: If the drive gear shaft binds while tightening the slotted nuts, remove the oil
pump, examine all parts of the oil pump for wear or damage. Replace worn or damaged
parts if necessary and re-install the oil pump.
D. Place a new accessory housing gasket (Figure 2) over the locating dowels on
the rear of the crankcase.
E. Apply a liberal coating of engine oil to all contact surfaces, such as gear teeth
and the idler gear hubs.
F. Fit the accessory housing into place on the rear of the crankcase.
G. Install all Bolts A and B with plain washers and new lock washers (Figure 1).
Torque the hardware per the latest revision of the Service Table of Limits -
SSP-1776.
A. Magneto Removal
(1) Disconnect the harness (Figure 1) from the magneto to be removed.
(2) Hold the magneto and remove the two nuts, two lock washers and two
clamps from the magneto. Discard the lock washers.
(3) Remove the magneto.
(4) Remove and discard the gasket.
B. Magneto Installation
NOTICE: This procedure applies to Slick magnetos only. Refer to the manufacturer’s
instructions for other types of magnetos.
A new or serviceable magneto, new magneto gasket, new adapter gasket and two new
lock washers are necessary to install the magneto. Refer to the applicable parts catalog.
(1) Apply a light coat of C5-A Copper-Based Anti-Seize compound to the tapered
section of the magneto driveshaft (Figure 2).
(2) Install the magneto impulse coupling gear (Figure 1) on the magneto.
(4) Torque the gear nut to 120 to 360 in.-lb. (14 to 41 Nm).
(5) Install a new cotter pin through the stud and castle nut. Bend the top prong on
the cotter pin over the stud and bend the bottom prong of the cotter pin down.
(6) Verify the magneto direction of rotation as per the magneto data plate.
(7) Install a timing pin (Figure 3) in the hole marked Left or Right on the face of
the distributor block based on the magneto rotation requirements.
(8) Apply a slight inward pressure to the pin and slowly turn the magneto drive
shaft in the direction of normal rotation until the shoulder of the pin seats against
the distributor block. When correctly engaged, the timing pin will be inserted 7/8
in. (22 mm) into the distributor block.
(9) If not already done, turn the crankshaft in the direction of normal rotation until
the correct advance timing mark on the starter ring gear support (Figure 4) aligns
with the crankcase parting flange.
(10) Apply Lubriko grease to the mating flange and install a new gasket on the
mating flange of the magneto.
(11) Remove the timing pin and install the magneto on the engine with the clamp,
nuts, and new lock washers (Figure 1).
(12) Torque the two nuts on the magneto clamps to 48 in.-lb. (5 Nm) in
increments, alternating between the two nuts until both nuts are torqued to 15 to
18 ft.-lb. (20 to 24 Nm).
A. Remove the spark plug as per the “Spark Plug Removal” procedure in Chapter 74-20
of the IO-360-N1A Engine Service Manual.
B. Clean the ignition lead, cable ends, spark plug walls, and ceramic of the spark plugs
(new or reused) as per the spark plug manufacturer’s instructions.
C. Wipe the spark plug lead connector clean using a lint-free cloth moistened with
Methylethyl-ketone (MEK), acetone, or wood alcohol.
D. Remove all cleaning residue from the spark plug lead connector.
F. Install the spark plug as per the “Spark Plug Installation” procedure in Chapter 74-20
of the IO-360-N1A Engine Service Manual.
NOTICE: For spark plug inspection and replacement, refer to Chapter 74-20 in the IO-
360-N1A Engine Service Manual.
1. Ignition Harness Removal A. Remove the ignition harness (Figure 1) from the engine
harness.
(1) Disconnect the clamps that attach the ignition harness to the engine.
(2) Remove the screws which attach the harness cap to the magneto.
NOTICE: The left ignition harness is marked "left." The right ignition harness is marked
"right."
Refer to Chapter 74-20 in the IO-360-N1A Engine Service Manual for the Ignition
Harness Inspection procedure.
A. Attach the left ignition harness to the left magneto (Figure 1).
NOTICE: Each spark plug ignition harness nut is marked with a letter and
number identifying the spark plug position on each respective cylinder. A spark
plug nut marked "T1" identifies the top spark plug on cylinder #1 to which that
ignition lead is to be connected. A spark plug nut marked "B4" identifies the
bottom spark plug on cylinder #4 to which that ignition lead is to be connected.
(1) Route the ignition leads to the appropriate spark plug position as indicated by
the alphanumeric markings on each spark plug nut.
(2) When the spark plug nut thread makes contact with the spark plug threads,
push the ferrule against the spark plug while turning the spark plug nut clockwise.
(3) Continue turning the spark plug nut until it seats and is finger-tight.
NOTICE: When installed, a hex ferrule will protrude above the spark plug mounting nut. Hold
this hex ferrule with a 7/16 in. wrench while tightening the spark plug nuts to prevent twisting of
the ignition lead.
B. Install a new oil line; do not let the oil line touch a heat source.
MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO SHARP BENDS OR KINKS IN THE OIL LINE ROUTING TO
PREVENT INTERRUPTIONS TO OIL FLOW. MAKE SURE OIL LINES ARE NOT TOUCHING
HEAT SOURCES THAT COULD DAMAGE THE LINE AND CAUSE OIL LOSS.
C. Make sure there are no sharp bends or kinks in the oil line routing
D. Torque the fitting connections on the oil line ends in accordance with the
torque values in the latest revision of the Service Table of Limits - SSP-1776 and
aircraft manufacturer’s instructions.
A. Remove and discard the safety wire from the oil level gage tube (Figure 1).
B. Carefully turn the oil level gage tube (Figure 2) to remove this tube as a unit
(with the dipstick, oil level gage ring, and oil level gage gasket) from the engine.
NOTICE: Make sure the oil level gage gasket is not on the crankcase.
C. Put the tube assembly on clean surface in a safe place to prevent damage to the
tube.
A. Install a new oil level gage gasket on the oil level gage tube (Figure 2).
B. Apply Food-Grade Anti-Seize to the threads of the oil level gage tube.
C. Install (turn) the oil level gage tube on the engine and safety wire the oil level
gage tube (Figure 1).
D. Install a new oil level gage ring on the dipstick (Figure 2).
E. Install the oil level gage assembly (dipstick) in the oil level gage tube.
A. Remove and discard the safety wire from the oil pressure relief valve (Figure
3).
B. Remove the oil pressure relief valve, spring, ball, and gasket (Figure 4) from
the crankcase. Discard the gasket.
A. Examine the oil pressure relief valve spring to be sure it meets specifications
in accordance with the latest revision of the Service Table of Limits - SSP-1776.
B. Examine the threads on the oil pressure relief valve. If the threads are stripped
or galled, replace the valve.
A. Install a new gasket on the oil pressure relief valve (Figure 4).
NOTICE: Refer to the latest revision of Service Table of Limits - SSP-1776 to select the
correct spring. The spring must allow a minimum of three threads exposed on the
adjusting screw to allow field adjustment.
B. Install the spring in the oil pressure relief valve (Figure 4).
C. Apply Copper-Based Anti-Seize to the threads of the oil pressure relief valve
as shown in Figure 5.
E. Install the oil pressure relief valve in the crankcase and torque to 300 in.-lb.
(34 Nm).
A. Apply Food Grade Anti-Seize on the threads of the oil cooler bypass valve.
B. Install the oil cooler bypass valve with a new gasket on the oil filter base as
shown in Figure 7.
C. Torque the oil cooler bypass valve to 300 in.-lbs. (34 Nm).
A. Mount the oil filter base with a new gasket on the mounting pad where shown
in Figure 8 with three bolts with flat washers and new lock washers.
B. Install the nut, new lock washer and washer on the stud.
C. Remove the six nuts, lock washers, and washers from the six A Studs (Figure
9) that attach the oil sump to the crankcase. Discard the lock washers.
D. Remove the 12 A Bolts along with lock washers, and washers from the oil
sump. Discard the lock washers.
E. While one person holds the oil sump, remove the two B Bolts, along with four
washers, and two lock washers from the locations shown in Figure 9 on the oil
sump.
H. Turn over or cover the oil sump to prevent dirt and debris from getting in the
oil sump.
MAKE SURE THE OIL SUMP IS NOT CRACKED OR DAMAGED. THE OIL SUMP MUST BE CLEAN, WITHOUT
DIRT, DEBRIS, OR OTHER FOREIGN OBJECT MATTER THAT COULD CONTAMINATE THE OIL SUPPLY.
CONTAMINATED OIL CAN ADVERSELY AFFECT ENGINE OPERATION.
D. Apply a dab of Gasket Sealant #4 (or equivalent) to three places in the split
line between the accessory housing and crankcase where they mate with the oil
sump (Figure 11).
E. Install a new oil sump gasket in either the oil sump flange (Figures 9 and 12)
or on the mating flange of the crankcase.
F. Align the oil sump flange with the bottom of the mated crankcase halves as
shown in Figure 13.
ALL OF THE OIL SUMP FASTENERS (STUDS, BOLTS, AND NUTS) MUST BE INTACT TO ENSURE
CORRECT AND SECURE TIGHTENING TO PREVENT OIL LEAKAGE AT THE OIL SUMP MATING
FLANGE WITH THE CRANKCASE. NO OIL IS TO LEAK OUT OF THE OIL SUMP.
G. Examine all of the oil sump fasteners identified as A and B, in Figure 9, that
were to be kept separate when the oil sump was removed. Make sure the bolts,
studs, and nuts are not damaged are intact and have no stripped threads.
Replace any damaged or stripped fastener.
H. Install the A Studs on the oil sump in the locations shown in Figure 9.
I. Install the two B Bolts each with a nut, two washers and a new lock washer at
the location shown in Figure 9. Torque the nuts to 96 in.-lb. (11 Nm).
J. Install the 12 A Bolts, each with a nut, two washers and new lock washer as
shown in Figure 9. Torque the nuts to 96 in.-lb. (11 Nm).
K. Install the six nuts on the A Studs each with a washer and new lock washer.
Torque the nuts to 96 in.-lb. (11 Nm).
TO PREVENT OIL LEAKAGE, MAKE SURE THAT THE OIL DRAIN PLUG IS INSTALLED -
TIGHTLY IN THE OIL SUMP. SAFETY THE OIL DRAIN PLUG.
L. Install the oil drain plug in the threaded hole of the oil sump. Torque the oil
drain plug per the torque value in the latest revision of the Service Table of Limits
- SSP-1776.
M. Safety the oil drain plug in accordance with the best standard practices per
the latest revision of AC43.13-B.
N. Install all engine components that had been removed during oil sump removal.
O. After maintenance is completed, add the correct oil to the engine per
instructions in Chapter 12-10 of the IO-360-N1A Engine Service Manual.
NOTICE: Each engine cylinder has a corresponding intake pipe of a different part
number. Be sure to replace the intake pipe with the correct replacement intake pipe
that corresponds to the engine cylinder number (Figure 1).
(1) Remove the two bolts, lock washers, and washers from the intake pipe flange at
the engine cylinder (Figure 1). Discard the lock washers.
(2) Remove the gasket from the intake pipe, discard the gasket.
(3) If the intake pipe is not to be replaced, attach a label to the intake pipe that
identifies the corresponding engine cylinder number for reference on assembly.
(4) Remove the intake pipe and ring seal at the oil sump connection. Discard the oil
seal.
NOTICE: Since there is a corresponding intake pipe for each engine cylinder, make
sure the correct intake pipe is installed for the respective engine cylinder.
(2) Install the intake pipe with a new ring seal at the oil sump (Figure 1).
(3) Attach the corresponding intake pipe to the correct engine cylinder flange with
a new gasket, two bolts, two new lock washers, and two washers. Torque the two
bolts to 96 to 108 in.-lb. (11 to 12 Nm).
The fuel drain valve adapter assembly (Figure 1) is a valve in the induction
system that closes during engine operation and opens when the engine is shut
down to allow excess fuel to drain from the induction system. If the valve is not
operating correctly it can either allow outside air into the induction system during
engine operation or fail to drain excess fuel from the induction system when the
engine is shut down.
If your engine has fuel drain valve adapter assembly installed, examine the
assembly as follows:
A. Remove the fuel drain valve adapter assembly from the oil sump.
B. Examine the fuel drain valve adapter assembly for damage.
C. Make sure the fuel drain valve adapter assembly is operating correctly:
(1) The valve is operating correctly if it is open with no air pressure applied.
(2) The valve is operating correctly if it closes when 0.75 to 1.0 psi (5.2 to 6.9
kPa) of air pressure is applied to the inboard side of the fuel drain valve
adapter assembly, then repeated with the outboard side.
D. If the valve is not operating correctly or if the fuel drain valve adapter
assembly is damaged, replace the fuel drain valve adapter assembly.
E. Install a serviceable fuel drain valve adapter assembly in the oil sump. Torque
the assembly to 40 in.-lb. (4.5 Nm).
ACTIVITY!
RUBRICS
CONTENT (70%)
HONESTY CLAUSE:
_
Student’s Name and Signature Parent/Guardian’s Signature