Vegetable

Growing Guides
 Index
Baby Corn - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1
Brocolli - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 5
Cabbage- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 10
Carrots - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 14
Cauli ower - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 19
Cucumber - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 24
Field Tomato - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 29
Green Bean - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 35
Lettuce - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 39
Onion - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 44
Pea - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 51
Pepper - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 59
Potato TPS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 66
Potato Tubers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 70
Squashes - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 79
Sugar Bean - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 84
Tunnel Tomato- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 88
Watermelon - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 94

318 Hillside Road

Msasa
Harare
Zimbabwe

(+263 4) 447114 - 8

(+263 4) 447119
[email protected]
www.primeseed.co.zw
 Baby Corn
Production & Spray Guide

Baby Corn | Page 1

 Baby Corn Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution

General
Baby corn are the unfertilized and undeveloped cobs of the maize plant. The crop is
relatively quick and inexpensive to grow making it well suited as a rotational crop in any
horticultural operation. It also produces large tonnages of Stover suitable for silage for
animal feed.

Cultivars

Only use recommended cultivars such as Thaigold, SG17 & SG18

Soil and Fertilizer

Most soils are suitable for Baby corn production. As a general guideline if your soils are
in the following range, yields will be maximized.

pH 5.0-6.4

P205 (ppm) 30-40

K2O (meq) 0.2-0.4

A general recommendation for Baby corn fertilization is:

350-400 kg/ha Compound D or Z should be banded 5 cm below and to the side of the
seed. On very light sandy soils use 200 kg / ha AN as top dressing split application at
knee height and waist height. On heavier soils less AN may be used.

Population

A population of 120 000 plants per hectare is ideal. This may be achieved by several
methods.

a.) Machine planting. Rows 75cm apart with one seed every 11 cm apart.

b.) Hand planting. Rows 75cm apart with 3-4 seed every 22cm apart thinned to 2-3
plants at two weeks

c.) Hand planting. beds 1.5m centre to centre. two rows per bed +/-30cm apart. Intra
row spacing either one seed per 11cm or 2-3 seed per 22cm stations.
Quantity of seed used depends on the cultivar used and can vary from 30-60 kg/ha.
Count the number of seeds per 1kg in order to accurately establish the quantity of seed
required per hectare.

Baby Corn | Page 2

Irrigation
It is important to keep the surface of the soil moist during germination, thereafter 24 to
32mm per week should be applied depending on the weather. The crop should never be
stressed at any time as this adversely affects yield.

Agro Chemicals for Baby Corn

Maize Streak Virus: Gaucho 600 FS @ 5,5ml per kg seed
Weeds: Grasses and Broadleaf: Bateleur Gold @ 1,2lts per ha
Cutworm: Karate Zeon @ 100ml per ha
Stalk borer and pink bollworm: Karate Zeon @ 200ml per ha

Detasselling
Plants must be de-tasselled just after tassels have emerged. This is important to ensure
that pollination does not take place and result in seed growth causing excessive cob size.
It also brings on harvesting faster, increases the number of cobs and gives better cob
development. labour for de-tasselling is approximately 5.5 labour days per hectare.

Note: Some Baby Corn varieties like SG17 and SG18 are male sterile so do not require
detasselling.

Harvesting
reaping starts within a week of de-tasselling. It is crucial to harvest at the correct stage as
cobs become oversized very rapidly and then have no market value. As a very rough
guideline the cobs must be harvested when 1cm of silk is exposed. This however, varies
with the different varieties as well as the cob number being removed from the plant.
There can be up to three cobs picked per plant. The unsheathed cobs should be between
1 and 2.5cm in diameter and between 7 and 12cm in length. Plants should be harvested
daily to ensure that one does not get behind picking. harvesting continues for a period
of two to three weeks. At the peak of harvesting 10 pickers per hectare should be
suf cient and should be able to pick well over 100kg per person per day. The gross
yield (including the sheaths) should amount to about 11t/ha which will give an average
10% net export yield.

Baby Corn | Page 3

 Post Harvesting Handling
Cobs must be placed in the shade immediately after harvesting. The cobs can be covered
with wet hessian to keep cool. They must then be stored in a cool place like a shed and
will not deteriorate while the husk is still on. Cobs can be sent to the pack house either in
the complete sheath, or as cigars, where the outer layers of the sheath have been removed
and the bottom of the sheath cut off. This reduces transport costs.

Grading and Packing

If grading and packing are to be done on farm then the cobs must be checked for worm
damage, deformities and other blemishes. All silks must be removed as any remaining
on
the cob soon turn brown. A guide for grading and packing is to start with 40 punnets per
person per day and to increase to a target of 60. Once the husk has been removed it is
essential to place the cobs into cold storage as soon as possible (3 degrees).

Silage
The tassel, silks, husks and stalks are all a good source of nutrition rich in protein.
approximately 50 tonnes of fresh leaf and stalk per hectare will be available at the end of
picking. it will have the following breakdown:

22.7% dry matter containing:

5.7% total protein
1.8% fat
26.45 ber
59.9% nitrogen free extract (NFE)
6.2% minerals (0,31% calcium and 0.04% phosphorus)
57.3% total digestible nutrient
2.2% digestible protein
The nutrition is similar to that of fresh para-grass

Baby Corn | Page 4

 Broccoli
Production & Spray Guide

Broccoli | Page 5
 Broccoli Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

General
Broccoli is a vegetable rich in vitamin C, protein, fibre and flavour. It is also known as a “Super
Food”. Broccoli belongs to the “Brassica – Genus” fairly closely related to Cabbage, Brussels
sprouts and Cauliflower. Broccoli types are, Large headed varieties, Sprouting varieties and
Romanesco varieties. Large headed are the standard type with heads weighing from 400grams
up 850 grams. Sprouting broccoli like Purple Sprouting and Green sprouting broccoli produces
numerous heads on long stalks and Romanesco varieties produce elegantly swirled heads
composed of symmetrically pointed spirals. These large plants need plenty of growing space.
In Zimbabwe the best growing climate for growing Broccoli is during the cool weather
conditions of winter. During the hot, wet conditions of summer the head sizes tend to be
smaller. Consult a Prime Seed Agronomist on which are the best varieties for winter and
summer production. Tasty in each of its varieties, Broccoli is easier to grow than its relatives
Cauliflower and Brussels sprouts and can produce bountiful crops. Always in high demand on
the dinner table.

Site Selection
Broccoli grows very well in medium to medium heavy clay loam with good water holding
capacity. It can be grown however in more sandier soils but will require more frequent
irrigations and higher fertilizer rates. PH levels should be form 5.8 – 6.5 as Broccoli likes to
have an alkaline soil. Broccoli responds very well to compost and organic enriched soils. Levels
round 25 – 35 tons of well- prepared compost or farm yard manure will benefit the crop and
help reduce the levels of costly fertilizers. Make sure compost and manure are well broken
down when put in the fields or root burn may occur. Chicken litter can also be used at 2 – 5
tons per hectare but must be well composted. If ploughing, plough to a depth of 30 – 35cm
which will make sure the soil is prepared for good root development, but make sure any old
plough pan is broken up. If ripping then discing is preferred, this is also a good way of
preparing a tilth. The soil should not be too cloddy, also not to fine. During winter months plant
if possible on North facing slopes to achieve better soil warmth.

Spacing
If planting on beds which are at 1.5m centre to centre the in row should be 30cm apart and two
rows placed on the bed 50 – 60cm apart. This should give approximately 44,000 plants per
hectare. Planting on the flat, rows can be 40cm apart and in row of 35cm apart. Higher plant
populations give smaller heads so populations should be governed by market requirements.

Broccoli | Page 6
Fertilizer
Broccoli can be susceptible to hollow stem problems caused by a Boron deficiency. If there is a
Boron deficiency in the soil apply Solubor as a foliar spray every 2 weeks at a rate of 10grams/
1 litre water. A balanced Basal type fertilizer of either “A” “B” or “C” should be applied before
planting. A vicon spreader can be used to broadcast the fertilizer on the flat or a ridger type
applicator to apply the fertilizer if the crop is to be grown on beds. Cupping with fertilizer cups
by hand into the pre-marked planting holes can also be done but the fertilizer must be well
mixed in the hole with the soil to prevent root burn.
On soil analysis results the rates of fertilizer can be adjusted to the rate to be applied and if
compost or manure have been applied the rate can also be reduced. Fertilizer rates of 500kg –
750kg per hectare can be applied. Broccoli requires around 400kg per hectare of A.N. split into
3 applications from 3 weeks up to 6 weeks after transplanting. If the crop is being planted on
sandier soils and also during the rainy season extra top dressings might be required after heavy
leaching rains. Plantings going into mid-winter should be top dressed with Calcium Nitrate,
instead of A.N. as it works quicker in cool soils.

Seedlings
Planting with seedlings is the most practical method. Use a recognised Nursery like Prime
Plants Nursery where strong and healthy seedlings are produced. By transplanting good
seedlings this gives a base for a more uniform crop helping with reduced costs at harvest time.
Order around 10% more seedlings for your selected plant population from the Nursery to
ensure best seedling selection when transplanting. When using seedlings or speedlings as they
are most commonly known, at transplanting make sure that good plug to soil contact is made
so the root system can leave the plug and quickly enter into the soil enriched with either
fertilizer or compost. Plant the speedlings as soon as possible after collecting them from the
Nursery to avoid the tiny hair roots from drying out. Plant the plugs/speedlings into pre irrigated
soils in which the field has been brought up to field capacity. After transplanting a light settling
in irrigation is required to remove tiny air pockets between the plug and the soil.

Varieties
Selection of a variety depends if it is to be marketed as fresh or frozen. Broccoli is usually a
cool weather crop but can be grown year round with correct variety selection, this is where
your Prime Seed Agronomist can advise. Broccoli is quite frost tolerant. There are two types,
heading and sprouting. Sometimes selected varieties might produce side shoots once the main
head has been harvested. Variety selection will also have maturity dates varying from 60 – 75
days.

Broccoli | Page 7
 Harvesting
Time of harvest is primarily determined by the tightness of the florets and not by the size of the
head. The head should be firm and compact, not opening and loose. If leafy points have come
through the head before harvest it shows harvesting is late, or the plant has been under stress.
This is more common in hot summer weather conditions when head size is generally smaller
than in winter production. When harvesting cut the central stalk at a 45 degree angle, 13 –
20cm below the head. This will keep water from pooling inside the cut stem and causing rot.
Broccoli has a poor shelf life at ambient temperatures so the harvested heads will require cold
storage or if being delivered to the market fresh, in the shortest possible time. Brown or Purple
beads is a physiological problem that is more prevalent under hot humid conditions.

Irrigation
Regular water applications during the dry winter months is essential. Overhead irrigation or
centre pivot irrigation is the most common followed by flood and more recently drip irrigation
which is becoming more affordable. Broccoli like cauliflower, the irrigations must be spot on or
“Hollow stem” will occur due to fluctuations of water levels in the soil. Approximately 600mm –
750mm of irrigation should be allowed for to produce a quality Broccoli crop. Therefore
planning water usage fromDams, rivers and boreholes can be worked out to match hectares to
be planted. As the plant increases in size and leaf area, and the head starts to form, the amount
of water required also increases. Irrigation should be planned on a weekly basis and the soil
depletion area checked regularly to plan for the next irrigation cycle. A quick test is to take a
fist full of soil in your hand, squeeze it to form a ball then tap the “ball” with your finger, if it
collapses it is becoming dry and irrigation should be applied immediately. Preferably it should
not have gone as far as this stage. The use of an evaporation pan should help with scheduling.

Rotations
In rotation planning do not follow with Broccoli if the previous crop has been a Brassica type
i.e. Cabbage, Cauliflower or Rape. Always rotate with a legume or root crop.

Broccoli | Page 8
 Broccoli Spray Guide

Stage Nursery Transplanting & Rapid Leaf Floret Floret / Head Harvest Agrochemical Rate/ha grams or EU Days to
Establishment Growth Formation Expansion ml/100 Lts MRL Harvest
Days: 0-30 30-35 40-60 50-70 65-90 90-130 water @ 500 mg/kg (phi)
Lts water/ha
Pest Problems
Actara 25 WG 500gm 5 g/1,5Lts 0.2 n/a
Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil drench or Dip drench water/100m
Actara 25 WG foliar 250gm 50 0.2 7
Cutworms Karate Zeon / Ampligo
spray
Karate Zeon 5CS 100ml/ha (cutworm) 20/40 0.1 2
Diamond back Moth 200ml/ha (bollworm)
Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim
Proclaim 05SG 250gm 50 0.01 2
General Caterpillars Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/
Ampligo 150ZC 250ml 50 1 3
Proclaim Match 050 EC 600ml 120 0.2 14
Actara Soil drench
Polo 500SC 600ml 120 0.1 3
Apron Star 2.5gm/kg seed Seed Dress At Planting

Copper Oxychloride 3kg 600 20 2

Disease Problems Bion 50 WG 30-60gm 6-12 0.02 14
Damping off & Black Leg Apron Star Seed
Amistar op 325 SC 750-800 ml 150-160 1 21
Dress Revus 500ml 100 2 2
Bacterial Black Rot T Folio Gold 2Lts 400 0.2 7
Bion / Copper Oxy
Bravo 720 SC 1,4 Lts 250 5 7
Downy Mildew Revus / Ridomil / Ortiva 250 SC 500-600 ml 100-120 5 14
Folio Gold / Bravo
Dual Magnum 960 1,25 Lts 250 0.05 n/a
Club Root EC
Quintozene
Fusilade Forte 1 Lt 200 0.2 28
Alternaria, Powdery Gramaxone 2 Lts 400 0.02 na
Mildew, White Blister & Touchdown 2lts 400 0.1 na
Bravo / Ortiva / Score
Ring Spot

Weed Problems
Before planting - post
Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post
Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses
Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses
Fusilade Forte

Broccoli | Page 9
 Cabbage
Production & Spray Guide

Cabbage | Page 10
 Cabbage Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

Site Selection
Soils can be medium to heavy with good water holding capacity. Sandy soils tend to require
more frequent irrigation cycles and require higher levels of fertilization. PH levels should be
between 5.5 and 6, so soil samples need to be taken prior to planting. Cabbages respond very
well to compost enriched soils. Levels of 20 to 30 tons per hectare of well-prepared compost
will benefit and reduce levels of fertilizer. Manure and Chicken litter can also be used but must
be well broken down and composted or root burn will occur. Manure 10 to 20 tons per hectare
and Chicken litter 2 to 5 tons per hectare. Ploughing should be done to a depth of 30 – 35cm
making sure the old plough pan is broken up. Ripping then discing is also a way to prepare a
tilth for planting. Final tilth must not be too cloddy or too fine. It is recommended that you dip
you seedlings in a solution of Actara to give the plants 6 weeks protection from Aphids and
Whitefly. Also apply a foliar spray of Bion to the seedlings to activate the plants own defence
mechanism against bacterial and virus attack.

Spacing
Planting can be done on beds during the rainy season which helps with drainage and on the
flat during the winter period. If beds are made they should be 1.5metres centre to centre. 2
rows on the top of the bed between 50 to 60cm apart and planting stations 30 to 35cm in row.
Planting on the flat rows can be 50 to 60cm apart and planting stations 35 to 40cm in row.
Plant populations should be between 33,000 – 40,000 depending on market requirements.
Higher plant populations tend to give smaller head sizes.

Fertilizers
A balanced basal Compound type fertilizer of either “A”, “B” or “C” should be applied prior to
planting. This can be done using a Vicon spreader if growing on the flat or a ridger type
applicator if planted on beds. Cupping with fertilizer cups by hand into the planting hole can
also be done but the fertilizer must be well mixed in the hole to prevent root burn. On soil
analysis results and soil types, rates of fertilizer can be applied ranging from 600kg – 1,000kg
per hectare. Cabbages will require around 400kg a hectare of AN split into 3 applications
between weeks 2 and 8 after transplanting. During the rainy season if the crop is planted on
lighter soils an extra top dressing might be needed after heavy leaching rains.

Cabbage | Page 11
 Seedlings
Planting with seedlings is the most practical method as seedlings which are strong and healthy
at transplanting is the base for a uniform crop helping with reduced costs at harvest. Plant
around 10% more plugs per hectare of your selected plant population, this should ensure good
seedling selection. When using seedlings or speedlings as they are also known, at
transplanting make sure good plug to soil contact is made so the root system can leave the
plug and quickly enter into the fertilizer enriched soil. Plant the Speedlings as soon as possible
after pulling them from the trays to avoid the tiny hair roots drying out. Plant into pre irrigated
soils in which the soil has been made up to field capacity. After transplanting a light settling in
irrigation is required to remove air pockets between the plug and the soil. It is recommended
that you dip your seedlings in a solution of Actara to give the plants 6 weeks protection from
Aphids and Whitefly. Also apply a foliar spay of Bion to the seedlings to activate the plants own
defence mechanism against bacterial and virus attack.

Varieties
Selections of a variety depends on where it is to be marketed. Cabbage varieties vary in size
from 2.2kg up to 7kg per head. Varieties must be selected if to be grown in Summer or Winter.
Summer varieties must be “Black Rot Tolerant”; this disease comes in during hot humid
weather and can decimate a crop if not resistant to “Black Rot”. Varieties need to have a waxy
layer to deter “Diamond Back Moth” from damaging the crop. A good “self-wrapping” type of
cabbage is necessary to retain quality and freshness. Colour of the head is important for the
market and also the shape. Contact a Prime Seed Agronomist for advice of which variety to
plant and at which time of the year. Also for market advice. Prime Seed has a variety of
cabbage called Escazu F1 which is resistant to Diamond Back Moth, as well as Black Rot.
Corton F1 is an excellent Black Rot resistant for large cabbages +5kgs.

Harvesting
Cabbages are ready for harvest when the head is firm to the touch when pressed and the veins
on the outside leaves just begin to crack. Ideally about 60% - 70% of the heads should be
cut at first harvest, ensuring maximum yield potential. Depending on variety selection and time
of year Cabbages mature from about 80 – 130 days after transplanting.

Irrigation
During the dry winter months irrigation is essential. Overhead sprinkler irrigation is the most
common, followed by flood and more recently “drip” irrigation. During Summer production
being able to apply irrigation during long dry spells will ensure a good even viable crop.
Approximately 600mm – 750mm of irrigation should be allowed for to produce a good crop of
Cabbages. So planning water usage from, dams, rivers, and boreholes can be worked out to
match hectares to be planted. As the plant increases in size and leaf area, the amount of water
required also increases. Irrigation should be planned on a weekly basis and the soil depletion
area checked regularly to plan for the next irrigation cycle. The use of an “Evaporation Pan”
should help with this. On medium to heavy clay soils irrigation should be given when
approximately 25% of available water has been used.

Cabbage | Page 12
 Cabbage Spray Guide

Stage Nurser y Transplanting & Rapid Leaf Growth Floret Formation Floret/Head Harvest
Establishment Expansion
Days: 0-30 30-35 40-60 50-70 65-105 105-135

Pest Problems

Soil Pests & Aphids

Actara Soil drench or Dip

Cutworms
Karate Zeon / Ampligo

Diamond Back Moth Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

General Caterpillars Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

Aphids
Actara Soil drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo

Disease Problems
Damping off & Black Leg
Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Black Rot Bion / Copper Oxy

Downy Mildew
Revus / Ridomil / Folio Gold / Bravo

Club Root
Quintozene

Alternaria
Amistar Top/Bravo / Ortiva / Score

Weed Problems
Before planting - post
Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post
Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses
Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses
Fusilade Forte

Nutgrass (Yellow)
Dual Magnum

Cabbage | Page 13
 Carrots
Production & Spray Guide

Carrots | Page 14
 Carrots Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

General
Carrots are a very popular vegetable as they are rich in Carotene ( Pro Vitamin “A”). Carrots are
produced for the market place and are used as a fresh cooked vegetable, also raw in salads.
They are either sold tied in bunches with the leaves attached, in packs of sliced or diced and in
packs plain with leaves removed. The main demand in colour for carrots is the orange to
orange red. Novelty coloured varieties such as purple, yellow, red and white are also available
from seed houses. Carrots are also used in mixed vegetable packs in supermarkets. Carrot
shape mostly needed in the market place is for a cylindrical to longish tapered root. There is
also a market for conical baby carrots, longer more cylindrical fine baby carrots and to a lesser
degree round carrots. For type, colour and where the carrot is to be marketed, the time of the
year, ask a Prime Seed Agronomist for this information. Carrots are hardy and can stand winter
cold and medium frosts. They do best in a temperature range of 10° C to 28° C. Carrots will
germinate slower in cool soils so if plantings are sequential take this into consideration.
Germination is quicker in warm soils. In most areas of the country carrots can be grown year
round.

Soils
A sandy loam to loam with a deep, well drained friable structure is highly preferable. Lighter
textured soils are also used because the carrot seems to be smoother, straight, has a good
appearance and the roots are easily washed. Soils should be free from stones, no restricting
layers and not prone to capping. If organic matter is being used in the rotation, do not plant
carrots immediately after this application, better plant carrots as a second crop in the rotation
as soils with fresh humus or compost tend to make the roots hairy or forked, rough and course
on the outside and develop excessive leaf growth. The soil should have a PH value of 5.5 – 6.5
so have the soils checked and follow the soil analysis recommendation. The soil should be
deep ploughed or deeply sub soiled to break up any root obstructing layer. After this the soil
should be harrowed once or twice so as to achieve a level, fine, loose, slightly firm soil surface
ready for planting. Carrots are usually grown on beds for easy harvesting or on small flat ridges
and even on the flat. Beds should be 1.5m – 1.8m centre to centre with at least 1m -1.2m top
section for planting on and around 30cm – 35cm high. Ridges can also be made up 50cm or
75cm apart, 30cm – 35cm high with one row planted on the 50cm ridge and two rows on top
the 75cm ridge.

Carrots | Page 15
 Seeding
Planting is normally done with a precision planter direct drilling the seed into the grown. Seed
can be obtained coated which is preferable or un coated. Seed can also be graded to achieve
even stands. Seed size can be between 1.25mm and 1.75mm. The advantage of the larger size
seeds is that they germinate more uniformly and produce stronger plants. With pre sized seeds
very good results can be obtained as uniform spacing can be managed with precision planters.
Seed can also be bought in weight units (Kgs) or number of seeds in a packet i.e. 10,000 up to
100,000 seeds. Depth of planting needs to be between 7mm – 20mm. Green shoulders caused
by the sun can be prevented by paying attention to the depth of planting in relation to soil types
and irrigation used. If it does occur carrot shoulders must be covered with soil using a small
hoe. Care must be taken to avoid damage to the plants. This can be done at the 6 – 8 leaf
stage. Seeds need to be spaced about 2cm apart in row. Depending on the number of rows per
bed a population of 90 – 160 plants per square metre should be aimed for. On beds 1.8m bed
centre to bed centre this figure comes to 162- 288 plants per running metre. At 1.5m bed
centre to bed centre this figure will be 135 – 240 per running metre. Target populations of
between 400,000 – 900,000 plants per hectare is dependent on what the market requirement is
or to specific orders for carrots i.e. very long for processing, normal size for supermarkets or
smaller size for specialised orders. The amount of seed required for 1 hectare of large carrots in
usually between 2 – 3 kgs with baby carrots nearly 7kgs. These amounts are guides as
differences can occur in seed size, coated or naked, hybrid or open pollinated. Deciding on
plant populations they type of seed must also be considered. With open pollinated cultivars
seed losses through poor germination can be as high as 50% whilst Hybrid cultivars the
germination is usually around 90%, so seeding rates need to be calculated accordingly. Carrots
that are hand sown tend to be uneven as some areas the density is too high resulting in carrots
twisting around one another, are much smaller and have a lower quality making saleable yields
lower than expected and where lower densities occur carrots are normally too big. Thinning is
possible but very labour intensive, so with large scale plantings this is not practical.

Fertilization
Carrots do not require high levels of Nitrogen as high levels stimulate top growth at the
expense of root growth, delays harvesting and promotes development of leaf diseases. Most of
the nitrogen is applied at planting or as a side dressing very early on if grown on sandy soils.
Compound ”D” at 600kg- 800kg per hectare or Compound “L” at the same rate both applied
pre planting at bed making.

Top Dressings
First top dressing starts 2 weeks after germination, with 50kg of AN or 100kg Potassium Nitrate
per hectare. Next top dressings in weeks 3 – 4 – 5 - 6 use Potassium Nitrate at 25kg a hectare,
Calcium Nitrate at 40kgs per hectare and Magnesium Sulphate at 10kg a hectare. From weeks
7 – 8 – 9 – 10 apply Magnesium Sulphate at 14kg per hectare, Potassium Sulphate at 50kg a
hectare and Calcium Sulphate at 25kgs a hectare. About 2 weeks before harvest apply
Magnesium Sulphate at 14kg a hectare and Potassium Sulphate at 50kg a hectare. High
Potassium applications ensures a better quality, crisper, better coloured carrot and enhances
the keeping quality.
Carrots | Page 16
Irrigation
If possible the use of a solid set sprinkler system can be used to apply up to 4 light cycles per
day from planting to emergence, it can then be moved to the next planting. Normal sprinkler
irrigation can now take over. From planting the soil should not dry out and the top 30 – 40mm
of soil kept moist. This will provide constant moisture for rapid and uniform germination. In hot
weather it helps to cool the soil, also prevents fertilizer accumulation due to evaporation in the
top soil layer. From emergence to a root diameter up to 7mm watering is progressively reduced
and smaller light irrigations giving way to larger less frequent amounts. This is to induce deeper
rooting. Monitor irrigations by reducing amounts until the crop is close to but not wilting. Make
sure irrigations always place moisture beyond the growing root to around 45cm soil depth. At
this stage stressing is now finished as the crop grows from 7mm diameter to harvest, sufficient
irrigation is required to keep the entire soil profile wet. Soil moisture should be maintained at
above 50% of available moisture after stressing. Generally 25mm of irrigation per week should
be adequate but in warmer to hot weather go up to 50mm. Check the evaporation pan figures.

Harvesting
Large size carrots require around 110 – 130 days to mature, and slightly longer during the
colder months. Carrots are harvested when they obtain the required size, are still tender and
succulent before they get woody and fibrous. Normally the market requires a size of around
20mm to 30mm diameter .

Harvesting can be done mechanically or by hand. Mechanically a blade is drawn under the bed
below the carrot roots. Once loose they are pulled from the soil by hand. Carrots required
without the leaves for the market, the leaves are broken off and left in the field. Those required
for bunching the leaves are left on and the carrots put into crates. Once the carrots are in the
crates they are taken in for washing and grading. Carrots lifted by hand with a fork require very
careful placement or otherwise too many carrots will be damaged by the spikes of the fork. The
soil should be moist but not over wet at pulling to help reduce soil stick. Last irrigation should
be timed to around a week before intended date of lifting. Do not lift carrots that have been
under water stress or post-harvest keeping quality will be reduced. At harvest handle carefully
as wounds can lead to bacterial infections and rot. Do not tip carrots from excess heights onto
other carrots on the shed floor or in crates as damage will occur. Washing can be done in a
bath, but regular changing of water must be done to avoid soil particles scratching the skin.
Carrots can also be put in a concrete mixer type drum with brushes instead of metal bars and
slow revolving to wash carrots. If carrots have to be stored keep the temperature at 2°C to 3°C
with a R.H. of 90% to 95% in the refrigeration room. Carrots grown in light soils do not store as
well as those grown in heavier soils.

Yields from 20tons - 40tons per hectare are now common and with Hybrid varieties, yields can
get up to 60 tons or more per hectare. These yields are being achieved by successful farmers
who pay attention to detail. Baby or small carrots will generally be half the yield of that for large
carrots.
Carrots | Page 17
 Carrots Spray Guide

Carrots | Page 18
Stage Pre-Plant Sowing & Seedling Establishment Rapid Leaf Growth Root Thickening Mature
Emergence & Root
Days: -7 0-14 14-28 21-56 35-70 75-120

Pest Problems

Nematodes Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil drench

Cutworms Karate Zoom / Ampligo

Aphids
Actara / Proclaim / Polo

Disease Problems
Damping off

Apron Star Seed Dress Revus / Ridomil Gold MZ / Folio Gold

Cavity Spot

Alternaria
Ortiva / Score/Amistar Top
Powdery Mildew

Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses Fusllade Forte

Post-emergence: grasses Codal Gold

& broadleaf
 Cauliflower
Production & Spray Guide

Cauliflower | Page 19
 Cauliflower Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

Site Selection
Soils can be medium to heavy clay loam with good water holding capacity. Sandy soils tend to
require more frequent irrigation cycles and require higher levels of fertilization. PH levels should
be between 5.5 and 6, closer to 6 on sandy soils. It is best to take soil samples and have them
checked prior to planting. Cauliflower responds very well to compost enriched soils. Levels of
20 to 30 tons of well-prepared compost will benefit the crop and reduce the levels of fertilizer.
Manure and Chicken litter can also be used but must be well broken down and composted or
root burn will occur. Manure 10 to 20 tons per hectare and Chicken litter 2 to 5 tons per
hectare. Ploughing should be done to a depth of 30 to 35cm deep making sure to break down
the old plough pan. Ripping then discing is also a good way to prepare the tilth for planting.
Not too cloddy or too fine tilth is necessary. During winter months if possible plant on north
facing slopes to achieve better soil warmth.

Spacing
Planting can be done on beds during the rainy season which helps with drainage and on the
flat during the winter period. If beds are made they should be 1.5metres centre to centre. 2
rows on the top of the bed, 60cm apart and 40cm in row. Planting on the flat rows can be 60cm
apart and planting stations 40cm in row. Plant populations should be between 33,000 – 40,000
depending on market requirements. Higher plant populations tend to give smaller curd sizes.

Fertilizers
A balanced basal Compound type fertilizer of either “A”, “B” or “C” should be applied prior to
planting. This can be done using a Vicon spreader if growing on the flat or a ridger type
applicator if planted on beds. Cupping with fertilizer cups by hand into the planting hole can
also be done but the fertilizer must be well mixed in the hole to prevent root burn. On soil
analysis results and soil types, rates of fertilizer can be applied ranging from 500kg – 750kg per
hectare. Cauliflowers will require around 400kg a hectare of AN split into 3 applications
between weeks 2 and 6 after transplanting. During the rainy season if the crop is planted on
lighter soils an extra top dressing might be needed after heavy leaching rains. Cauliflower
plantings going into winter should be top dressed with Calcium Nitrate , instead of AN as it is
quicker acting in cool soils. Cauliflower is susceptible to Boron deficiency which causes
“Hollow Stem” so be vigilant

Cauliflower | Page 20
Seedlings
Planting with seedlings is the most practical method. Use a recognised Nursery like Prime
Plants Nursery where strong and healthy seedlings are raised. At transplanting good seedlings
give a base for a uniform crop helping with reduced costs at harvest. Plant around 10% more
plugs per hectare of your selected plant population, this should ensure good seedling
selection. When using seedlings or speedlings as they are also known, at transplanting make
sure good plug to soil contact is made so the root system can leave the plug and quickly enter
into the fertilizer enriched soil. Plant the Speedings as soon as possible after pulling them from
the trays to avoid the tiny hair roots drying out. Plant into pre irrigated soils in which the soil has
been made up to field capacity. After transplanting a light settling in irrigation is required to
remove air pockets between the plug and the soil. It is recommended that you dip your
seedlings in a solution of Actara to give the plants 6 weeks protection from Aphids and
Whitefly. Also apply a foliar spay of Bion to the seedlings to activate the plants own defence
mechanism against bacterial and virus attack.

Varieties
Selection of a variety depends on where it is to be marketed. Cauliflower is mostly a cool
weather crop. Varieties vary in Curd size from 600grams up to 1kilo. Varieties must be selected
for summer or winter production. Be careful in summer as Cauliflower is susceptible to “Black
Rot”. Varieties need to have a waxy leaf to deter Diamond Back Moth from destroying the crop.
A good self- wrapping type Cauliflower is necessary such as Spacestar which saves on labour
costs for tying the leaves over the head to prevent discolouration. Cauliflower is also frost
tolerant. Contact a Prime Seed Agronomist for advice on which variety you need for different
times of the year.

Harvesting
Cauliflower heads are ready for harvest when the curds start to expose themselves through the
natural leaf wrapping, so careful monitoring of head size is important. Exposed heads will turn
yellow to cream or brown, making them unsalable. Harvest period is normally 10 – 14 days but
growers should aim to do as few cuts as possible, which saves on labour. Depending on variety
selection and season, Cauliflowers take 75 – 90 days to mature after transplanting. Once the
heads are cut cooling down in field shelters with wet walls or refrigeration is advised. Quick
transport to market is a must. Cauliflower heads bruise easily so be careful and pack properly.

Cauliflower | Page 21
 Irrigation
During the dry winter months irrigation is essential. Overhead sprinkler irrigation is the most
common, followed by flood and more recently “drip” irrigation. If growing Cauliflower during
summer, irrigation must be spot on or “Hollow Stem” will occur due to fluctuations of water in
the soil. Approximately 600mm – 750mm of irrigation should be allowed for to produce a good
crop of Cauliflower. So planning water usage from, dams, rivers, and boreholes can be worked
out to match hectares to be planted. As the plant increases in size and leaf area, and the start
of the “Curd” forming, the amount of water required also increases. Irrigation should be
planned on a weekly basis and the soil depletion area checked regularly to plan for the next
irrigation cycle. The use of an “Evaporation Pan” should help with this. On medium to heavy
clay soils irrigation should be given when approximately 25% of available water has been used.
Water stress can cause the self-wrapping protection to fail exposing the “Curd” to sunlight
turning it cream or yellow also making it non
marketable

Rotations
Never plant a Cauliflower crop following another Brassica crop i.e. Cabbage, Broccoli or Rape.
Rotate with a legume or Root crop.

Cauliflower | Page 22
 Cauliflower Spray Guide
Stage Nursery Transplanting & Rapid Leaf Growth Floret Formation Floret / Head Harvest
Establishment Expansion
Days: 0-30 30-35 40-60 50-70 65-105 80-155

Pest Problems

Soil Pests & Aphid

Actara Soil drench or Dip

Cutworms Karate Zeon / Ampligo

Diamond back Moth Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

General Caterpillars Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

Aphids Actara Soil drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo

Disease Problems
Damping off & Black Leg Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Black Rot Bion / Copper Oxy

Downy Mildew Revus / Ridomil / Folio Gold / Bravo

Club Root Quintozene

Alternaria
Bravo / Ortiva / Score/Amistar Top

Weed Problems
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post
Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses Fusilade Forte

Nutgrass (Yellow)
Dual Magnum

Cauliflower | Page 23
 Cucumber
Production & Spray Guide

Cucumber | Page 24
 Cucumber Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

General
Cucumber (cucumis sativus) is a member of the Cucurbitaceal family native to Africa.
Cucumber is an annual deep rooted crop with plenty of tendrils and has hairy leaves. Optimum
growing temperatures are between 20° C to 25° C. At temperatures below 16°C growth slows
down and cucumbers are frost sensitive. Most cultivars are Monaecious, they have separate
male and female flowers on the same plant. They are not Parthenocarpic like Greenhouse
cucumbers which do not require pollination of flowers for fruit production. As Monaecious
cucumbers are dependent on bees for pollination it is recommended that two to three hives per
hectare are placed near the field. Up to 8 bee visits per flower is required to ensure pollination
for fruit formation.

Spacing
Spacing:- Rows can be 1.2m - 1.8m apart on the flat and 50cm – 1m apart in row, depending
on what plant population is needed and varieties selected. Plastic mulch can be applied where
drip irrigation is used. Plastic mulch helps control weeds, improves the use of water and
fertilizer. It also reduces incidents of fruit rot where the fruits are not in contact with the soil. If
cucumbers are to be grown on beds a spacing of 1.2m – 1.8m bed centre to bed centre then 2
rows can be put on the top of the beds. The rows can be 40cm apart, and in row of 50cm –
80cm apart. Cucumbers can be direct seeded in the ground or seedlings grown in a nursery
like Prime Plants Nursery for transplanting. If direct seeding is used then the soil temperature
must not be below 13°C or poor uneven germination will take place. With direct seeding the
depth of the seed should be 20 mm – 28mm deep. Speedlings need to be covered when
transplanted up to the top of the plug. Plant populations can vary from 14,000 per hectare up
to 40,000 per hectare.

Cucumber | Page 25
 Trellising
Cucumbers can be trellised in order to achieve better yields with better quality of the fruits. If
trellising is used it should be 1.6m up to 1.8m in height. Strong poles are spaced every 4m
apart. A twelve gauge wire is placed about 12cm off the soil level and a 8 gauge wire is pulled
on the top. Twine or netting can be strung between the wires so plants can be trained up.
Planning ahead for rotation purposes, if the trellising is used say for a tomato crop then the
cucumber crop can follow the tomato crop using the same trellis system saving on double
work. Training needs to be done on a weekly basis to ensure all the vines are tied onto the
netting or twine. Pinch out the side shoots from the bottom up to around 50cm, after this leave
them to grow out.

Advantages of trellised cucumbers are:-

1) Increased picking efficiency.
2) Better yields.
3) Straight fruits
4) Uniform colour, not like fruits grown on the soil which have a white/yellow area where it has
been lying on the soil surface.
5) Reduces fruit loss to soil diseases.
6) Better pest management.

Disadvantages:-
1) Extra cost of trellising materials.
2) Extra labour costs to erect, dismantle and training of the vines.
3) Plants are prone to wind damage therefore wind breaks need to be put in, in wind prone
areas by putting up 50% shade cloth of 2m height up wind of the crop.

Field Preperation
loughing or sub soiling needs to be done to a depth to break up a hard pan if present in the
soil. The PH should be between 5.5 – 6.0. Cucumbers are adapted to a wide variety of soil
types that have good drainage and adequate water holding capacity. Soil should be harrowed
to a reasonable tilth after ploughing or sub soiling so direct seeding can have good soil to seed
contact.

Cucumber | Page 26
Fertilization
Rates can be based on soil sample analysis results.
Basal:- Compound “D” at 600kgs – 750kgs per hectare can be used.

Top dressing:- Apply first application two weeks after germination or transplanting of 50kg per
hectare AN. Then every two weeks until first fruit set, then add 35kgs per hectare Muriate of
Potash and every two weeks from then on both the AN and Muriate of Potash. Potassium helps
to produce a deep green colour to the fruit as well as firm flesh and helps to produce good
yields.

Manure or Compost applications improve quality and yields. Up to 20tons per hectare is
recommended, as this helps to improve soil texture and improves root growth.

Irrigation
Cucumbers need a constant water supply to enable a good yield of quality fruits. Generally
soils must not dry out at planting or transplanting. Soil types will depend on the frequency and
amount. From flowering to fruit development depending on the weather, amounts should be
supplied by checking on evaporation pan figures. Roughly 50 mm irrigation is required per
week. Normally drip irrigation is recommended for cucumbers.

Maturity
Generally first harvest from planting takes 45 – 55 days. Depending on disease and pest control
cucumbers can normally carry on producing for 14 weeks. At harvest the fruit must have
reached full diameter and while the seeds inside are still soft and small. Normally the average
length is between 15cm – 20cm and a diameter 4cm – 7cm. From pollination to harvest is
normally 15 – 18 days. Cucumber plants set fruits and develop over a long period of time,
therefor marketable fruits extend over a period of time.

Harvesting
Cucumbers are handpicked. When picking, the fruits should be clipped or snapped near the
stem and not pulled off or damage to the vine will occur. Once picked place gently in the
picking crate and keep cool and covered with a damp cloth. Once transported to the pack
shed keep the fruits cooled down to 10°C for best shelf life. Remove any oversize fruits left on
the vine by mistake from the previous harvest as they will drain the plant of all nutrients and can
cause yield loss. Damaged or decaying fruit should also be removed. If Cucumbers have to be
stored the average shelf life is about 10 – 14 days at a temperature of between 10° C – 13° C,
and 90% to 95% RH.

Cucumber | Page 27
 Cucumber Spray Guide
Stage Pre-Plant Sowing & Seedling & Vegetation Early Flowers Early Fruits Fruiting &
Emergence Picking

Cucumber | Page 28
Days: -7 0-10 10-28 28-35 35-42 45-60

Pest Problems

Nermaiodes
Solvigo

Soil Pests Actara Soil Drench

Cutworms Karate Zeon

Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo

Aphids &Whitefly
Actara / Ampligo / Polo

Pumkin Fly
Lebaycid

Disease Problems
Damping off
Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Complex Amistar Top/Score

Powdery Mildew Reus/Ridomil/Folio Gold

Anthracnose Amistar Top/Bravo

Virus Complex Actara Soil drench

Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Post-emergence: grasses Dual Magnum
 Field Tomato
Production & Spray Guide

Field Tomato | Page 29

 Field Tomato Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

General
Field Tomatoes are a very important crop in the country sold mainly as fresh tomatoes, used in
salads or used as an ingredient in Soups, Stews, Sauces and various other dishes. Some
production is grown and sold for processing or pulping under contract. There are a number of
varieties available for specific markets or uses so contact a Prime Seed Agronomist for the best
cultivar for the purpose intended for example, Fresh Market Tomato or “ Jam” or Processing
Type. Tomatoes are a warm season mainly summer crop but can be grown in certain low veldt
areas in winter that are frost free. A few degrees above freezing will result in damage to both
plant and fruits. Optimum temperature range is between 20° C to 28° C. Temperatures below
12° C or above 35° C can result in flower shed and big losses of yield. Continuous moist or
rainy weather favours the rapid increase in leaf diseases and makes control difficult. For best
results the crop should be finishing around the end of December or early January though
however at this time and mid-winter prices are highest as there is always a shortage.
No other crop is subjected to such a variety of diseases and control of these diseases is
paramount during the whole growing period to achieve good yields.

Determinate type varieties are normally shorter plants than indeterminate varieties which can
result in big savings on trellising and spraying costs. They also normally produce a
concentrated yield over a shorter space of time, however could be a disadvantage if it comes
in during a price drop so plan carefully. The final size of the plants is dependent on climatical
and cultural conditions as well as the specific cultivar selected. Processing cultivars possess
high solid content required for such use. Their keeping quality is normally better than normal
field tomato types.

Soils
Tomatoes like growing in deep, fertile, humus rich, good draining soils. Soil types can vary from
sandy loam to clay loam with a clay content of between 15% to 35%. Sandy soils can also be
used provided soil moisture content can be maintained at the desired level. The roots can
penetrate to a depth of over 2 metres but the greatest root concentration is in the top 600mm
of soil. Deep ploughing or sub soiling must be done to ensure any old plough pan is broken up,
so roots are free to go down deep. A PH of 5.0 – 5.8 is ideal. Tomatoes must also be grown in a
rotation of one crop every three or four years to reduce nematodes and disease problems.
Tomatoes will do very well after a green manure crop which has been ploughed in and
well-rotted down.

Field Tomato | Page 30

Fertilizer
Depending on soil analysis results the following is a general guide.
Basal :-
750kg per hectare up to 1,000kg per hectare of Compound “C” or “B”
Top Dressings.:-
One week after transplanting 25kg/hect Mono Ammonium Phosphate ( M.A.P.)
Second week after transplanting 50kg/hect AN
Third week after transplanting 50kg/hect AN
Fourth week onwards 50kg/hect AN plus 50kg/hect Sulphate of Potash ( S.O.P.)
Stop all fertilization two weeks prior to final harvest.
Micro nutrients are also necessary to obtain top yields. These are Calcium ( Ca),
Magnesium ( Mg), Sulphur (S), Boron (B), Iron (Fe), Copper (Cu), Zinc ( Zn),
Manganese ( Mn) and Molybdenum ( Mo). These can be obtained in micro nutrient mixes like
Nutrifoil, Liberal, BMX, Omniboost etc. These should be applied every two weeks or as per the
instructions on the label.
Calcium is very important to the crop as a shortage of Calcium will result in Blossom End Rot.
This can be sprayed on using Calcium Nitrate from first flower on a weekly basis at a rate of
10g/ 1lt of water using 250l to 300l water per hectare.

Irrigation
Best results have been achieved using drip irrigation as water can be applied as often as
required when using tensiometers in the soil which measures the soil moisture content. Also no
foliage gets wet thus minimising leaf diseases. Overhead sprinkler irrigation can be used where
there is no rainfall in the dryer months up to the fruiting stage. Sprinkler irrigation can
dramatically increase the incidents of various diseases in medium rainfall or misty areas. Any
method of irrigation which does not wet the foliage is the preferred method. Furrow irrigation or
flood irrigation is also good but uses high volumes of water. Amounts of irrigation needed
depends on soil type and growing conditions like temperature and humidity. Normally around
400mm to 600mm is required. The use of tensiometers and an evaporation pan as tools will
help.
Lateral roots can spread up to one metre or more so soil moisture needs to increase with plant
growth. During the first month when the plants are relatively small and the roots may not have
spread this far so keep the water applied to the planting area. After one month increase
irrigation as the plant and its root system start to develop.

Planting
Propagated speedlings are the preferred method of establishing the crop. Good, strong,
healthy well rooted seedlings will give the best results so get speedlings done professionally in
a Nursery like Prime Plants Nursery. Plant speedlings into moist soil and firm the soil around
the plug to achieve good soil to plug contact so roots can develop quickly into the fertilizer
enriched soil. Irrigate as soon as possible after transplanting to settle in the seedling.
Field Tomato | Page 31
 Spacing
Rows generally 1.2m- 1.8m apart
In row spacing can vary between 40cm – 50cm apart
Population can be from 16,000 – 22,000 plants per hectare.

Trellising
For table tomatoes plants are invariably trellised. This is because the incidents of various
diseases, pests and sun burn is generally lower than crops that are not trellised. Trellised crops
have shown a significant advantage in higher marketable yield, better quality and makes
harvesting easier. The newer Processing cultivars are now generally shorter vined, have a more
concentrated harvest and have fruits with thicker and tougher skins, which don’t damage
easily, are therefore seldom trellised.
Poles of between 50mm – 70mm in diameter are dug in to a depth of +/- 600mm and spaced
every 3m apart leaving 1.4m – 1.8m above ground. The end poles should be stronger and well
anchored to prevent them being pulled over by the weight of the crop. Wires are put in early to
avoid damage to the small plants while they are getting established. Two wires of between
14gg – 16gg are pulled and attached to either side of the poles so the crop is between the
wires. Wires can be placed up the poles at intervals of 300mm – 400mm. The number of pairs
of wires will depend on the growth, height and vigour of the cultivar being grown. All plant
growth is trained to grow between the two wires.
Some growers do a single stake method where a stake is driven in next to the plant and as it
grows up the plant is tied at intervals to the stake.

Pruning
This is not recommended for outdoor growing of tomatoes. It is labour intensive and often
increases the incidents of disease like Botrytis, Pseudomonas and Phytophtora which enter the
scar wounds. The incidences of virus diseases and other disorders is also possible

Harvesting
Avoid picking green fruits as these will ripen with poor quality and affect the marketing of the
crop. Fruits should be harvested when a pink colour first shows at the blossom end. At this
stage the tomato is mature and already red inside. Indicators are as follows:-

a) Pick when cream coloured streaks are noticed at the blossom end. At this stage fruits
will last about a week after picking.
b) If the colour is dark pink going red at the blossom end it will have a shelf life of about 4
days.
c) When the tomato is pink it is 1 or 2 days to full ripe.
d) Full ripe nice red colour but still firm, need to sell immediately.

Field Tomato | Page 32

Reap into boxes that hold +/- 5.5kgs. Ripe tomatoes can be stored for about 7 days at 5° C –
10 °C with a RH of 80% - 85%. Tomatoes are sensitive to chilling. Temperature management is
crucial to maintaining quality. Fruits must be graded to uniform size and maturity in the packing
box. Mixing sizes and maturity can result in rejection or price drop at the market place. Fruits
need to be free from any blemishes e.g. insect, disease or mechanical damage. Remove all
diseased and damaged fruits from the plant as soon as they are seen. Remove them totally
from the field, do not discard in the field on the ground near the plants. To help with picking
use shorter rows or provide pathways to get across long fields to the waiting truck or trailer.
Reduce unnecessary walking to speed up harvesting. Provide pickup facilities at both ends of
the

Field Tomato | Page 33

 Field Tomato Spray Guide

Stage Nursery Transplanting Vegetative First Flowers First Fruits Fruiting

Days: 0-35 28-36 30-60 60-65 65-70 70-125

Field Tomato | Page 34

Pest Problems

Nematodes Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil Drench / Solvigo

Cutworms Karate Zeon

Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo / Curacron

Fruitworm & Caterpillars

Ampligo / Matish / Karate Zeon / Proclaim

Aphids & Whitefly

Actara Soil Drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Chess

Disease Problems
Damping off Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Complex Bion / Copper Oxychloride

Early Blight Copper Oxychloride / Bravo / Amistar Top

Late Blight Folio Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold

Leaf spots; Powdery Amistar Top

Mildew
Virus Complex Actara Soil Drench / Dip

Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses Fusllade Forte

Post-emergence: grasses Codal Gold

& broadleaf
Post-emergence: grasses Codal Gold
& broadleaf
 Green Bean
Production & Spray Guide

Green Bean | Page 35

 Green Bean Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution

Crop

General Description
French Beans which may otherwise be known as ne or dwarf beans are grown year round in
frost free areas. Yields are maximized when temperatures lie between 15 -28C and some
pollination problems may occur if temperatures fall to 4C or go above 35C.

Soils
Deep, well drained soils are
r preferred with an ideal pH if 5,5 to 6,5 (CaC12). All soils must be
analysed before planting, so that corrective measures may be taken before a problem becomes
noticeable.

Fertilization
As a general apply 800 – 1000kg/ha Compound A, B, C on lighter soils and 400 – 500kgs/ ha
on heavier soils. The amount of Top dressing used and frequency of application varies
depending on soil type. On sandy soils up to 300kgs/ha. AN can be applied split on a weekly
basis starting from week 3 or 4 and should continue well into flowering and pickling. Less AN
would be required on heavier soils and the time between applications may be longer.
Additional potash may be required and 75 – 100kgs per ha. MOP or SOP in total should be
applied split between flower bud stage and early production.

French Beans are sensitive to several micronutrient deficiencies particularly on anthill areas in
the lands. Application of foliar sprays containing zinc and iron as well as other elements will be
of some benefit to the crop.

Varieties
Rust resistant varieties are the order of the day now. Serengeti and Volta are the two most
commonly planted varieties. New varieties like Adele are in the trial phase.

Seed may either be mechanically or hand sown to achieve a population of 300,000. The
approximate weight of seed will vary according to variety but is normally in the region of 60
-65kgs/ha

Sow seed to a depth of 25mm into moist pre-irrigated soil. Always plant upwind when a series
of planting are to be in the same field so that the older plantings are downwind of emerging
crop. This will reduce pest and disease pressure especially thrips, Heliothis and rust.

Green Bean | Page 36

Irrigation
It is preferable to pre-irrigate to field capacity prior to planting. As the seedlings are emerging a
light irrigation will help them to push through. Once all plants are through the ground
approximately two weeks after planting, it is advisable to withhold irrigation to enable the
plants to root well and reduce the chances of damping off.
After this initial dry period do not allow soil to dry out as this will cause stress to the plants and
stimulate premature flowering. Over watering will encourage disease development. There are
no hard and fast rules about timing and quantity of irrigation which are dependent on soil type,
prevailing climatic conditions and crop maturity. As a general rule of thumb 6000m3 is required
to see one hectare through to completion during the hottest time of the year.

Any water stress (too much or too little) during flowering and pod set will cause flower abortion
to occur as well as bent cured beans.

Pests and Diseases

Before using any chemicals please check that it is on the Freshtex Declared Pesticide List and
read the label for the manufacturers instructions.
“See the Prime Crop Protection on Spraying Guide”
Weed Control
Disease Control
Pest Control
“Providing Solutions For Farmers”
“Assisting Farmers Succeed”

Green Bean | Page 37

 Green Bean Spray Guide

Stage Pre-Plant Planting to Vegetative First Flowers Pod Development Peak Picking
Emergence & First Picking

Green Bean | Page 38

Days: -7 0-10 10-40 30-40 40-60 +65

Pest Problems

Bean Stem Maggot Apron Star Seed Dress

Beetles Karate Zeon

Cutworms Karate Zeon

Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo

Podworm & Caterpillars

Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

Aphids & Whitefly Actara / Ampligo / Polo

Disease Problems
Seed/Soil Disease Ap on rStar Seed Dress

Bacterial Complex Amistar Top / Score

Anthracnose Bravo / Amistar Top

Rust Amistar Top/Bravo / Copper Oxy

Weed Problems Below are off-lab suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence ann uals
Pre-eme rgence: grasses Dual Magnum

Post-emer gence: grasses

Fusilade Forte

Pre-emer gence: grasses + Bateleur Gold

Broadleaf
Post-emergence: Servian
Nutgrass
 Lettuce
Production & Spray Guide

Lettuce | Page 39
 Lettuce Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

Soils
Lettuce is fairly tolerant of soil type but do well on light sand to sandy loams. As Lettuce has a
very shallow root system it can be grown on relatively shallow soils provided a good irrigation
system is in place so favourable soil moisture can be maintained. Due to the shallow root
system of Lettuce, the majority of the roots only go to a depth of 300mm. Therefore nutrient
and water requirements need to be concentrated in this small volume of soil. If planting in soils
that stain i.e. red soils, a mulch between the soil and the bottom leaves will keep the soil stain
from spoiling the heads and making them difficult to sell. Washing off soil stain causes bacterial
rot so is not recommended. Soil PH should be between 5.5 - 6.

General
As Lettuce is normally a cool weather crop demand for it in the cooler months is quite low.
Consumer’s main demand for Lettuce is during the hot summer months when salads are very
desirable. Lettuce heads produced in summer receive a higher price than those grown in the
cooler months. Summer production of Lettuce can be done, however, some precautions need
to be addressed to safe guard the viability of the crop. Varieties need to be chosen carefully for
the cool winter production and hot humid summer production. Summer varieties need to have
a good tolerance to bolting and good disease resistance. Most varieties perform equally well in
the cooler months so ask advise of a Prime Seed Agronomist who will give you the best variety
for your planting program. The most favourable temperature for production is a daily mean of
between 15° C and 18° C. Lettuce however will perform in a range of 17° C – 27 °C during the
day and 2° C to 12° C night temperatures, with careful variety selection.

Cultural Practices
For best results soils need to be prepared in advance and beds made up for summer
production. Raised beds of at least 20cm – 30cm high need to be made to help drainage with
excess rainfall. Planting on the flat in winter is acceptable. Drip irrigation is the preferred
method to irrigate Lettuce as there is no soil splash and soiling of the heads. If overhead
irrigation is to be used a smaller nozzle size should be fitted to the sprinkler head to avoid big
droplets hitting the soil surface and splashing the heads with soil particles. As soil moisture is
an important factor in Lettuce production the level of available water in the root zone should
not get below 50% holding capacity before the next cycle. Careful planning of irrigation is
necessary regarding soil types and the time of year. Amounts of water to be applied vary from
18mm on sandy soils to 50mm on heavy soils per cycle. Lettuce needs lighter and more
frequent irrigations more so than many other crops. Frequent irrigations however, especially in
summer production favour conditions for development of several diseases.

Lettuce | Page 40
Planting
The use of quality speedlings is highly recommended to achieve a good uniform crop. Prime
Plants Nursery does Lettuce seedlings, both the frilly type and standard varieties. For planning
purposes seedlings normally take about 5 weeks in the Nursery in the winter months to just
under 4 weeks in the warmer months. Seedlings must be well hardened before planting during
the summer as they will be subjected to high temperatures in the field after transplanting.
Mulching of summer production is definitely recommended. After transplanting the seedling a
mulch using wheat straw, grass or saw dust is advisable. This will assist in lowering the soil
temperature, cooling the crop, conserving moisture and preventing soil splash.

Spacing
During summer because of heavy rainfall which cannot be controlled planting on raised beds is
recommended. These beds can be made with a distance of 1.5m – 1.8m bed centre to bed
centre. 3 rows marked out on the top of the bed at 30cm apart with seedlings placed 25cm in
row, giving round 80,000 plants per hectare. For larger size heads distance in row can be
increased to 30cm giving a lower plant population in order to achieve a larger head size. On the
flat, rows can be between 35cm – 45cm apart and in row spacing between 25cm – 35cm. This
gives a plant population of about 60,000 to 100,000 plants per hectare. Head size for specific
large head orders use the wider spacing.

Fertilization
Get a soil analysis done before planting. A general recommendation is to use a basal dressing
of Compound “B” at a rate of 500 – 600kg per hectare applied pre planting. If the fertilizer is
cupped in by hand to a planting hole for a seedling make sure the fertilizer is well mixed in the
hole with the soil to prevent root burn of the seedling.

Top dressing
This takes place about 8 – 10 weeks after transplanting. A visual inspection is done to check if
the heads have reached the desired firmness and size. Loose leaf or frilly lettuce types are
harvested when the leaves have grown to a reasonable size. Using a long blade knife cut the
stalk just above the level of the soil and retain most of the wrapper leaves. Harvest when the
plants have dried out and in the cool of the early morning before the day temperature gets too
hot and the plants begin to wilt. Do not harvest the heads just after rain or irrigation as this
makes the leaves crisp and brittle because they will have absorbed a lot of water and the
leaves will break easily. After cutting, damaged, diseased and discoloured leaves can be
removed and the cut end tidied up before placing in the crate. Do not over pack the crates and
if possible not to stack more than 2 high. Move heads quickly once harvested into a field
shelter with wet walls to prevent dehydration before transport to the packing area. Once at the
pack shed storage under refrigeration with a temperature of 0°C and a R.H. of 95% lettuce
heads can be stored for up to 3 weeks if there is a glut in the market . However quicker

Lettuce | Page 41
movement to market is preferable. If there is no refrigeration the crop will have to be moved to
market the same day it is cut. Lettuce heads can weigh from 500g to over 1.2kg depending on
the time of the year. Yields can be from 25 – 30 tons per hectare. If properly grown lettuce
heads should be firm, fresh, clean and crisp and not have a bitter taste.

Transport
During transport to market if the heads are being delivered in an open vehicle it is very
important to cover the lettuce heads with a damp cloth type cover to prevent wind burn and
dehydration. If the delivery vehicle has an insulated covered back be sure that the temperature
inside does not go too high as this can cause dehydration and wilting.

Lettuce | Page 42
 Lettuce Spray Guide

Stage Nursery Transplanting Vegetative First flowers

Days: 0 - 42 25-42 40-70 70-90

Pest Problems

Nematodes Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil drench / Solvigo

Cutworms Karate Zeon

Leafminers Dynamec / Trigard

Snails & Slugs

Mesurol snail pellets

Thrips Actara / Ampligo

Disease Problems
Damping off Apron Star Seed Dress

Downy mildew Revus / Ridomil Gold MZ

Sclerotinia Drop Ortiva/ Amistar Top

Virus complex Actara Soil Drench / Dip

Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Before planting - post Touchdown abe sugges
emergence perennials
u
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals ti
Post-emergence: grasses
Dual Magnum

Lettuce | Page 43
 Onion
Production & Spray Guide

Onion | Page 44
 Onion Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

General
Onions require cool conditions for good vegetative growth with a temperature range of
between 12° C and 24 °C. In Zimbabwe generally the winter months provide these conditions
as the long cool winter months gives better vegetative growth before bulbing, resulting in better
and higher yields. As the summer months approach and high daily temperatures of 25° C to
27° C accelerates the bulbing process. If a cold snap occurs with temperatures of around 13°C
while bulbing this can trigger bolting. The bulbs need a month of dry weather towards the end
of its growing period for maturity. Onions are sensitive to length of daylight. Certain cultivars
like “Texas Grano” an open pollinated variety have fairly short daylight requirements that is why
they are termed short day cultivars. The most popular Hybrid varieties grown in Zimbabwe are
sold by Prime Seed and they are San F1. Cultivars that are able to form bulbs in less than a 12
hour day length must be grown. Late or indeterminate day cultivars require longer day length,
therefore should not be planted above the 28 Degree latitude, as the closer to the equator the
shorter the day length. Zimbabwe lies roughly between 16 Degree- 23 Degree south of the
equator therefore gives best results to short day cultivars. Choice of cultivar is determined
whether long term storage is required or not. Hybrids will store for up to 5 – 6 months whereas
open pollinated varieties do not have good storage properties. As onions remain in the ground
for a long time weed control is very important because the soil should not be worked deeper
than 50mm to 75mm then only during the early growth. Leaf disease control is also very
important.

Site & Soil Selection

Onions have a relatively shallow root system to a depth of about 200mm to 300mm. Onions
can be grown on a wide range of soils. Heavy clay soils however are difficult to work with and
can cause serious problems at harvest. Soils prone to capping i.e. T factor should be avoided.
Onions respond to well composted kraal manure at a rate of up to 20 tons per hectare which
has been incorporated into the soil. Soil PH of 5.5 – 6.5 is optimum as at a low PH; certain
diseases like White Rot become more prevalent. Soil analysis is important and needs to be
done for fertilizer application and to understand the Cation balance e.g. Ca:Mg:K:Na ratio
should be 65%:23%:10%:2%.

Soils should be deep ripped to achieve good drainage, with a good fine to medium seedbed
tilth with no large clods. If direct seeding with a specialised planter a nice level fine tilth will be
needed.

Onion | Page 45
Fertilization
Soil analysis will help to decide how much fertilizer to apply. Onions generally do well with
1,000kg to 1,300kg of compound “C” ( 6:17:15) Calcium nitrate can be used as a top dressing
at the rate of 30kg per hectare starting at 3 weeks after transplanting or emergence. Another
top dressing at 5 weeks, 7 weeks and 9 weeks up until seventh or eighth leaf stage. Micro
nutrient sprays of Nutrifoil 2 every 2 weeks at the rate on the label should be done until the bulb
starts to form. Avoid late or excessive Nitrogen top dressings as this will cause “Bull necks”, it
will also cause the plant to go back to vegetative mode if Nitrogen levels are high at bulb
formation.

Production Methods
Onions can be produced in the following way :-
a) Production of seedlings in an open field seedbed for transplanting.
b) Doing seedlings in trays with up to 3 or 4 seeds per plug. Prime Plants Nursery have the
expertise to do this.
c) Seeding direct in the field with a precision planter.
d) Onion sets for transplanting.

Field Seedbeds
A common method used. Sowing is done from early February to mid-April for transplanting
from May to June. Harvesting is then normally done from September to mid-October. Seed is
sown in rows 150mm – 200mm apart and seed sown to a depth of 10mm to 12mm. About 7
grams to 10 grams seed is used per square metre. Allow 3kg to 5kg of seed to produce
600,000 seedlings to be planted per hectare. Transplant seedlings when pencil thick about 6 –
8 weeks after sowing.

Seed Trays
Sowing time similar to open seedbeds. Seedlings normally only get to 3.0mm to 3.5mm in
diameter. Once the plug is pulled separate the seedlings and plant individual plants. Some
growers plant the plug without separating the seedlings but at slightly wider spacing. This is
not normally suggested as these clusters do not develop sufficiently and some bulbs are
malformed with flattened sides.

Transplanting seedlings from field seedbeds or plugs.

Seedlings are planted in shallow furrows which have been made on top of the bed. The number
of rows will depend on variety and the growers decided final population. Roughly 5 to 6 rows
on a 1,2metre bed top is the normal. Seedlings are placed at a slant on the sides of the furrow
and the roots are covered with soils to a depth of 1cm to 2.5cm. After transplanting, the
seedlings will lie flat but will recover in a few days after the settling in irrigations and will start
growing upright.

Onion | Page 46
Direct Seeding
Direct seeded crops are normally 6 weeks earlier to maturity and avoids the labour- intensive
practice of transplanting. A big disadvantage is that the entire field has to be kept weed free,
seedlings are still very small, weak and vulnerable. Weed control pre and post emergence is
very important. Irrigation is a problem as it needs to apply small amounts often and evenly over
the entire crop until germination is complete. Seed requirement is between 6kg to 8kg per
hectare.

Production Methods
Sets are more robust after they have been transplanted and therefore easier to manage. Seed
is sown in an open field nursery on beds that are 1.2metre to 1.6metre on top with 6 or 8 rows
per bed 20cm apart this figuration depends on if a planter is being used or being done by
hand. Seeding is normally done in June in the hotter parts of the country and July – August in
the cooler areas as a general rule of thumb one hectare of seedbeds should supply enough
seedlings for 10 hectares of crop. It is very important that not too much Nitrogen is given to the
growing seedlings. Approximately 30kg – 50kgs of Nitrogen needs to be applied per hectare.
After germination the bulbs will start to form within 4 – 6 weeks. Bulbs will continue to grow
until November when their size gets to 20mm – 25mm in diameter, then will begin to lodge.
Lifting will be done in late November to Mid-December. After the sets have been lifted allow the
necks to start drying off for 2 – 3 days then the sets can now be dried in bulk bins, on wire
racks or cages. Make sure that the necks of the sets are completely dry before storage.

It is important that the storage facilities are adequate to hold all the sets as they need to be
kept for between 2 – 3 months before planting out. Before storage, sets can be graded into
roughly 3 sizes, 15mm – 20mm – 25mm so immature and over size bulbs can then be
discarded so they do not take up storage space. If sets are stored in bulk do not go higher than
1metre – 1.5 metre in the drying room. There are two methods of storage, either cold or warm.
Cold storage needs temperature range from 1° C to 4° C with a R.H of 65% - 75%. Warm
storage has a temperature of 26 °C – 27° C with a R.H. of 60% - 75%. Sets can be stacked on
a slatted or perforated floor so that an air flow can then pass through. There are problems with
cold and warm storage. High temperatures can result in slow emergence after planting out the
sets due to the lack of the breakdown of the inhibitor (diallyl-dislulfide) which is formed in the
sets during the latter stages of growth. After planting out frequent light irrigation of 1mm to
2mm can be applied twice a day to help cool the soil down. Warm storage is best for sets
larger than 25mm, as large sets are prone to bolting with cold storage conditions. Cold storage
can lead to unwanted flowering if sets are kept for the whole period of storage. The inhibitor is
broken down by cold storage. Before storage contact your Prime Seed Agronomist to
recommend a fungicide to prevent disease and decay during storage and how best to apply it.
Remember to dry the bulbs again if dipped in a chemical solution.

Onion | Page 47
 Make sure at transplanting time that the sets must be completely covered with soil as any part
left exposed will probably get sun scorched resulting in possible pathogen attack. After
transplanting out the sets the smaller size sets just start enlarging in size and begin to become
normal onions. Large sets over 35mm in diameter often split. The idea of using sets is to get a
crop to mature earlier than the normal plantings thereby catching higher prices on the market.
However this method does result in a rather uneven crop. The percentage of bolters, thick neck
bulbs and split bulbs is often quite high. Spacing of the sets in the field is the same as for
planted out seedlings or direct seeded crops. Planting is done by hand or a specially designed
planting machine.

Spacing
Plant density can be from 600,000 to 800,000 plants per hectare. Seed count is normally
270,000 seeds per kilo.

Plant on beds of 1.2m – 1.6m beds centre to centre. Five to eight rows per bed 20cm apart and
seedlings or seeds 5cm to 10cm apart. Planting depth is critical as this has a noticeable effect
on the bulb shape. The onion stem plate forms at the point that the seed germinates. The entire
bulb forms above this point thus the bulb may form below or above the soil surface depending
on the placement of the seed.

Irrigation
After sowing the seed direct in the field or in the field nursery seedbed the soil surface should
not be allowed to dry out. This entails short irrigation cycles two to three times a day
depending on weather conditions. After transplanting seedlings they should be watered daily
until the plants stand up. Onion roots can penetrate up to 800mm but most roots feed in the
top 200mm – 300mm of soil. Care of irrigation management in the first 9 – 10 weeks is
important, before bulb formation and the next important period is just before harvest. No stress
should be allowed during bulb formation however no irrigation should be applied for the final 3
weeks before maturity to allow the bulbs to cure properly. A good onion crop will require
600mm – 700mm of irrigation.

Harvesting
Some growers harvest a small portion of the crop once the bulbs are a good size and sold as
green onions tied in bunches. This is normally sold to local vendors. Mostly growers start
harvesting when the tops of over 50% of the crop have collapsed and fallen over, even though
the leaves still show a green colour. A good way to lift is to loosen the soil with a blade pulled
below the root zone. Leave the onions for 3 – 4 days to dry then pull them out by hand. Even if
the crop is not going to be stored, the bulbs should be dry before marketing. Pull up to about
10 rows at a time and place in a single windrow in the field with the leaves being put over the
bulbs to stop sun burn.
Onion | Page 48
These are left for a further 2 – 3 days to dry and then the roots and leaves are cut off. If rain
should fall before the onions have been removed from the field the windrows should be turned
over and opened up to dry before re doing the windrow. Once off the field and in the shed
onions can be graded to size before pocketing for marketing. If onions are to be stored the
keeping quality is related to the amount of cells per volume of the bulb, the amount of growth
inhibitor (diallyl disulphide) is formed in the leaves then translocate to the bulb at maturity.
Make sure the onions have lodged properly for this process to take place so as to enhance the
keeping quality.

Effective drying is when the temperature is around 27° C and low humidity of 75% R.H. with
good ventilation. This temperature also reduces sprouting in the stored onion. Where long term
storage is required it is important that high relative humidity of 75% - 80% R.H. are avoided as
this is the enemy of stored Onions, promotes root growth and the development of storage
Pathogens that could result in big losses. Low relative humidity of less than 65% R.H. leads to
excessive moisture loss resulting in shrivelled bulbs and big losses in weight. For long term
storage good management of the shed is vital. Before filling the shed it should have been
cleaned thoroughly to prevent fungal and bacterial infections. All damaged onions should be
removed at grading before coming into the building. Good ventilation, temperature control and
humidity control of all the bins should be checked regularly, and any onions with Basal, Neck
and Soft Rots which are common storage problems must be removed. Keep the floor clean of
debris and sweepings.

A well cured onion will store and remain in a good state for a long time.

Onion | Page 49
 Onion Spray Guide

Onion | Page 50
Stage Nursery Transplanting & Vegetative First blubs Blub expansion Mature
seeding establishment
Days: 0 - 49 42 - 56 50- 90 90 - 110 110 - 170 150 -200

Pest Problems

Nematodes Solvigo

Soil Pests Actara Soil drench

Cutworms Karate Zeon

Thrips Actara / Ampligo

Disease Problems
Damping off Apron Star Seed Dress

Downy mildew & white tip Ortiva/Ridomil/Foilo Gold/Revus

Purple blotch (alternaria) Amistar Top / Bravo

Neck Rot Amistar Top / Ortiva

Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses Dual Magnum

Post- transplanting ;
pre-emergence: grasses Fusilade Forte
+ broadleaf
Pre-emergence: grasses + Servian
Broadleaf
 Pea
Production & Spray Guide

Pea | Page 51
 Pea Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

Mange tout and sugar snap peas are cool weather legumes which give maximised yields when
air temperatures range between 7 - 24 degrees celsius. It is possible to grow the crop outside
of this optimum range by subtle use of irrigation. In areas prone to severe frost it is advisable
that the crop should not be in production during these times. Flowers will abort resulting in a
poor set and loss in yield as well as young pods being severely damaged.

Soils
Peas can be grown on a wide variety of soils but, in general, heavier clay soils are preferable as
they tend to result in higher yields. Well-aerated and well-drained sandy loams of pH 5,5 to
6,0 (calcium chloride) should be chosen. On soils with a pH of less than 5,3 must have lime
applied with preference given to dolomitic lime.

Fertilization
All soils must be analysed prior to planting so that any corrective measures may be taken
before a problem becomes noticeable. Light sandy soils require more fertiliser than heavier
soils. As a general rule of thumb, apply 800 – 1000 kg/ha of Cmpd A or B and in heavy clay
soils use 400 – 500 kg/ha. If there has been a history of zinc deficiencies in the sandy soils
Cmpd Z may be used to substitute for half the Cmpd B.

The quantity and timing of AN top dressing is again dependent on soil type. On sandy soils up
to 300 kg/ha AN can be applied on a regular basis starting from +/- 4 weeks after germination
and should continue well into flowering and picking. Less AN would be required on heavier
soils and the time between applications may be longer. Additional potash may be required
and 75 – 100 kg/ha of muriate will help colour and flavour.

Varieties
There are only two main commercial varieties in each group :
Days to
Variety Maturity Plant Ht Resistances

MANGE TOUT
Snow Wind 72 60 – 70 cm Powdery Mildew
Pea Enation Mosaic Virus
Snow Green 70 75 – 80 cm Powdery Mildew
Common Wilt
1 Race

Pea | Page 52
Sugar Lady 75 75 –90 cm Fusarium Wilt
Powdery Mildew

Cascadia 60 75 -90 cm Common Pea Wilt Virus

Pea Enation Mosaic Virus

Super Sugarsnap 66 150 cm Powdery Mildew

1 Pea Leaf Roll Virus

Seed
All Pea Seed is treated with Apron Star Seed Dressing

Population
Seed can either be hand or mechanically sown to achieve a population of about 160 000 plants
per hectare. The approximate weight of seed sown per hectare will vary according to the
variety but is normally in the region of 40 – 50 kg/ha.

As a general guideline plant two rows per bed on beds that are 1,5 m centre to centre. A built
up bed is advisable as it reduces chances of water logging from occurring thus improving soil
aeration. During the dry winter months this may not be necessary and planting can be done on
the flat.

Inter row spacing is 8 cm and between the rows on the beds it is 15 – 20 cm. The rows are
close together for ease of trellising.

As an alternative, single lines can be planted at 1m apart and with 6 cm inter row spacing. No
less than 5 cm should ever be used as the inter row spacing as this will result in plants not
tillering due to excessive competition. Minimum distance between the rows is approx. 90 cm
which is determined by the ease of picking, spraying etc.

Planting
Sow seed to a depth of 25 to 40 mm into moist pre-irrigated soil. Always plant upwind when
a series of plantings are to be in the same field so that the older plantings are downwind of
emerging crops. This will reduce the pest and disease pressure especially of Heliothis,
Ascochyta, Powdery mildew and Mycosphaerella.Boron deficiency is indicated by a clear
yellowish to light green rim to the leaf. Copper sprays can cause similar symptoms and stunt
leaves so be careful with excess copper sprays.

Pea | Page 53
Pests and diseases
Before using any chemicals please check that it is on your exporter’s Declared Pesticide List
and read the label for manufacturers instructions.

Weeds
Great care should be taken to follow label instructions, with particular reference to depth of
planting, restrictions related to soil type and range of weeds likely to be controlled. Peas are
generally a winter crop so broadleaf weeds are likely to be a greater problem than grasses.

Terbutryn

Apply within 48 hours of planting to wet soil or follow with a light irrigation. Controls mainly
broad leaf weeds and has a residual action of 6 – 8 weeks.
Rates : 0 - 10 % clay 2 l/ha
10 – 20- % clay 2,5 l/ha
-
20 - 30 % clay 3,0 l/ha
over 30 % clay 4,0 l/ha

Dual Magnum 960EC

Apply within 48 hours of planting and irrigate it controls grass, weeds. Pre-emergence
application rate is 1,2-1,5lt per ha

Fusilade Forte

This may be used up to 3 l/ha over the top of peas when they are 50 – 150 mm high to control
certain broadleaf weeds and yellow nutsedge. Do NOT exceed this rate on peas – nor should it
be used on frost damaged crops or when frost is imminent. Weeds must be at a susceptible
stage.

This will control most emerged true grasses and will also suppress Upright Starbur when
sprayed at 1 – 1.5 l/ha dependent on height and species of grass. It can be safely applied over
the top of peas at any stage. Weeds must be growing vigorously and herbicide effect may not
be noticed for some time after spraying. Fusilade Forte becomes rain fast within 1 – 2 hours.

Pea | Page 54
Insects

Nematodes
Solvigo 108SC at 3lts/ha into planting furrow before covering. Will also control soil borne
insects and early sucking pests (Aphids/Thrips). PHI 45 days

Oxamyl @ 4l/ha split into 2l /ha at planting followed by 2 l/ha two weeks later. Soil must be wet
at the time of application or irrigation to follow within two hours. It must be applied in a high
volume of water (1000 l/ha) applied with the nozzle of the knapsack removed and drenched as
close to plants as possible.

Cut worm
Karate Zeon@ 100 ml/ha applied over the crop at germination. Soil must be moist.

Heliothis bollworm
This can be quite a problem particularly during warm spells. Spray with :-
Karate Zeon @ 200ml/ha in 500lt volume of water (PHI 2days).
Ampligo @ 250ml/ha in 500lt volume of water (water PH1 3days).
Proclaim @ 250gm/ha in 500lt volume of water (PHI 2days).
Match @ 600ml/ha in 500lt volume of water (PH1 14days)
Do not use Karate Zeon as a foliar application between 1 June and 1 August

Thrips
This small insect is difficult to control as it lives mainly in the growing points and flowers. The
use of sugar as a form of bait has been found to give better control (100g/100l). Use :

DDVP @ 1lt/ha (PHI 1day)

Proclaim @ 300gm/ha (PHI 3days)

Diseases
In all instances good leaf cover is essential for effective control and good spraying techniques
are imperative.

Pea | Page 55
Damping off

Newly emerged young plants are susceptible to damping off and root rot diseases, especially
under conditions unfavourable for germination and early growth.
Apron Star 42 WS as a seed dressing @ 3gm/kg seed prior to planting.
Benlate @ 1 kg/ha drenched along plant bases. This is the only time that Benlate should be
used in the crop due to overseas restrictions.

Powdery Mildew
This disease thrives in hot dry weather.

Sulphur @ 1 – 2 kg/ha is a cheap preventative chemical that should be sprayed on a weekly

basis. This product must not be mixed with other chemicals and only sprayed during the cool
of the day.

Amistar Top @ 500ml/ha (PHI 14days)

Score @ 350ml/ (PHI 14days)

Are systemic curatives

Downy Mildew
It is more prevalent in cool wet conditions where the plants are covered by dew until mid
morning. Preventative sprays of Copper @ 2kgs/ha will help and curative sprays of Ortiva @
600ml/ha once the disease has been seen.

Black Spot (Ascochyta pisi and Mycosphaerella pinodes)

Ascochyta only attacks the leaves and pods whilst Mycosphaerella also attacks the stem and
root crown. More or less circular lesions appear on the leaves and tiny raised spots form on
the pods. Overwatering exaggerates the problem and encourages the spread of the disease.
Control in the field is achieved with :

Use of disease free certified seed

Good crop rotation (at least three years)
Irrigate in mornings only to allow plants to dry out before night fall.

Copper Oxychloride @ 2 - 3 kg/ha as a preventative spray weekly

Bravo 720SC @ 1,4 lt/ha (PHI 14days)
Ortiva 250SC @ 500-600ml/ha (PHI 3days)
Amistar Top @ 500ml/ha (PH 7days)

Pea | Page 56
Harvesting
During the summer months the picking starts eight weeks after planting but this will be as
much as twelve weeks during mid winter. The crop is generally harvested for 3 – 4 weeks in
hot weather and up to six weeks in winter.

Picking must be on a daily basis as the peas become over mature and unmarketable very
quickly. One woman should be able to pick 25 kg in one day but where there is a bonus
incentive over 50 kg per person has been achieved.

As soon as the pod is picked it is essential that field heat is removed as quickly as possible to
ensure that shelf life is kept to a maximum. The containers that the peas are picked into must
be small bowls which are emptied into waiters’ crates and placed into a nearby field hut to be
kept in the shade. If the hut is made of hessian sacking then it is advisable to keep it wet
during the day. These crates must be labelled according to the field number from which they
have been picked and transported to the coldstore every two hours. The coldstore should be
kept at approximately 3 degrees.

Pea | Page 57
 Pea Spray Guide

Pea | Page 58
Stage Nursery Transplanting & Rapid Leaf Floret Floret / Head Harvest Product Rate/ha grams or EU Days to
Establishment Growth Formation Expansion ml/100 Lts MRL Harvest
Days: -7 0-14 14-50 35-45 50-70 60-120 water @ 500 mg/kg (phi)
Lts
Pest Problems
Solvigo 3 Lts 600 0.01 45
Nematodes Solvigo
Karate Zeon 5Cs 100ml/ha (cutworm 20/40 0.02 2
Cutworm Karate Zeon
200ml/ha (bollworm)
Trigard 75 WP 150 gm 30 5 3
Leafminer
Trigard/Dynamec
Dynamec 018 EC 560 ml 115 0.01 7
Pod Bollworm Karate Zeon/ Proclaim/Ampligo/Match Proclaim 05 SG 250gm 50 0.01 3
Ampligo 150 ZC 250 ml 50 0.01 3
Thrips Ampligo / Proclaim/
Match 050 EC 600ml 120 0.02 14

Red Spider Mites Dynamec Apron Star 2.5gm/kg seed Seed Dress 2-4
Oritiva 250 SC 500 -800 ml 60 - 120 3 3
Bravo 720 SC 1.4 Lts 280 2 14
Amistar Top 325SC 500 ml 100 1 7
Disease Problems Copper Oxychloride 3 kg 600 20 2
Damping off Dual Magnum 960 EC 1.3 Lts 100 0.05 na
Apron Star Seed Dress
Fusilade Forte 1.25 Lts 250 1 28
Ascochyta Gramoxone 2 Lts 400 0.02 na
Ortiva / Bravo / Copper/Amistar Top
Touchdown 2 Lts 400 0.05 na
Downy mildew Amistar Top/ Ortiva * No of appl’ns = Number of applications per crop cycle; depend on problem pressure,
weather conditions and crops chemical alternations.
Powdery mildew Amistar Top/ Ortivah

Weed Problems
Before planting - post
Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post
Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses
Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses
Fusilade Forte

Pre-emergence: grasses + Codal Gold/

Terbutryn
Broadleaf
 Pepper
Production & Spray Guide

Pepper | Page 59
 Pepper Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

General
Peppers can be grown out doors but most pepper production is in Greenhouses under glass or
plastic. Bell types have the largest share of the market. Fruits are large, blocky, three or four
lobed, thick fleshed, nice dark green when immature turning either red, orange, yellow, and
some black when fully ripe. Open pollinated and hybrid cultivars are available at Prime Seed.
Hybrid F1 cultivars have combined resistance to several diseases. Hybrid seed is more
expensive and gives bigger fruits and higher yields than open pollinated cultivars. As a Pepper
plant grows and flowers, the growth of the plant is reduced while those fruits that have been
set are filled to maturity. When these fruits have been harvested a new flush of growth takes
place and the next lot of fruits are set. This process continues for as long as the plant is well
cared for regards to nutrients and no disease or virus allowed to affect the plant. A pepper
plant has a growth rate of about 25% slower than a tomato plant. Peppers have a slow
production of leaf area as their leaves are much thicker and harder than tomatoes so have to
expend more energy to produce the same leaf area. Because of the slow growth rate this
makes peppers sensitive to any stress and are slow to recover. Successful and on-going
production lies in a steady, regular growth rate throughout the life cycle. Avoid planting peppers
in the same fields or greenhouses and tunnels previously planted with Tomato, Eggplant,
Peppers or other Solanaceous crops as they share the same pest and disease problems.
Peppers are generally self-pollinating. Planting time in important as there will be no pollination
of flowers if the temperature is below 12° C. Fruit will set but there will be no seeds in the fruits.
Good seed set is important to achieve a good yield.

Soil
Peppers like a PH range of 6.0 – 6.5. Soils can be from heavy loam to medium clay loam have a
good structure, well aerated so good drainage can be achieved. Deep ripping to a depth of
40cm-45cm will allow for a good deep rooted crop as pepper plants are sensitive to excess
water around the root system, but at the same time are susceptible to water stress.

Pepper | Page 60
Fertilization
Basal:-
The main nutrient requirements are in a range of N 160-250kgs per hectare, P2O5 200-300kgs
per hectare, K2O 200kg per hectare. This can be checked against the soil analysis done to
decide on the rate of fertilizer to be applied to the crop. As a general rule a compound or blend

fertilizer can be used at a rate of 750kg – 1000kg per hectare of compound “B” or “C”
depending on the soil analysis result.

Top Dressing:-
Two weeks after transplanting start top dressing with 35kg per hectare Calcium Nitrate for the
first two top dressings then- up to 45kg per hectare Calcium Nitrate every week till first harvest.
- 30kg-40kg per hectare per week thereafter till two weeks before
Then apply Potassium Nitrate
final harvest. Magnesium sulphate and Boron should be applied regularly after harvesting
-
begins to prevent deficiencies. Ask your agronomist for advice on rates, or after sap test
results. Blossom end rot can be caused by moisture stress, root damage or low PH. and a
deficiency of Calcium. Blossom end rot is not only confined to the blossom end in peppers but
can also occur on the sides of the fruits, often in combination with sun scorch.

Irrigation
Peppers do not like wet feet, but are very susceptible to water stress. The well prepared bed
will help with drainage and encourage deep rooting. Irrigation requirements range from 600mm
– 700mm. Peppers require a soil moisture content of around 80% of field capacity. Frequency
of irrigation will depend on soil type. During the summer months soils need to be irrigated every
5 – 7 days and if drip irrigation is used normally every day of about 0.5lts. Drip irrigation is
preferable to furrow irrigation or sprinkler systems. Overhead irrigation is not normally
recommended for a pepper crop. Wet leaves and fruits promote disease development. If
overhead sprinkler irrigation has to be used avoid irrigating towards evening and make sure
plants are dry before night fall. With drip irrigation the salt concentration around the roots must
be washed out from time to time.
Sufficient soil moisture should be maintained during fruiting which will promote large, more
numerous fruits.

Growth & Development

The pepper plant grows upright with a single stem for 8 – 10 leaves. A “Y” shoot now forms
and a flower bud forms in the split of the “Y”. As these two branches grow out they also
develop into a “Y” form and a flower bud appears in the split of that “Y”. This pattern is
repeated for about 5 nodes always splitting into two after the formation of a terminal flower. As
the first fruits set they take all the energy from the plant inhibiting further growth, flowering and
fruit set. Once the first fruits are harvested the energy is then channelled to new growth, flowers
and fruits.
Pepper | Page 61
 Agronomy
Peppers planted in the open fields can be transplanted into beds 30cm high with a top section
of 1.2m – 1.5m wide. A soft seed bed with a fine texture will also promote active root growth. At
transplanting plants are spaced 50cm apart and 50cm between the two rows on the top of the
bed. This gives a population of approximately 26,600 plants per hectare. Beds can either be
covered with grass mulch or wheat straw or thin plastic sheeting. Mulching helps to conserve
moisture and reduce weeds. Plant populations in a greenhouse or tunnel can be from 22,000 –
25,000 plants per hectare. A normal method is to use a tram line system, planting staggered or
off set double rows with a distance of 40cm – 60cm between plants. A pathway is left between
the tram lines for easy access. This can be 40cm – 60cm. Plants in row can be 50cm – 60cm
apart. A 60cm tram line with 60cm in row spacing with a one metre pathway gives a plant
density of around 2 plants per square metre. The tram line system makes better use of
available greenhouse space than single rows. Varieties must be well selected as this is vital for
success. There are many factors to consider, this includes fruit type, colour, wall thickness and
fruit size which will be best suited in the market place. A Prime Seed Agronomist can help with
variety selection. Disease resistance is also of importance.

Seeding and Planting

Germination of Pepper seed needs optimum day temperatures of 24° C – 28° C with night
temperatures 20° C – 21 °C. The minimum temperature a pepper seed will germinate is 13° C.
Pepper seed may be seeded directly or in a well prepared seed bed or done as a speedling by
a professional nursery. Prime Plants Nursery has the experience in production of excellent
speedlings. As F1 hybrid seed is expensive the seed should be propagated as a speedling in
128 cell trays or 200 cell trays or in pots. The bigger the surface area of the cell or the pot the
seedling will be thicker with a more sturdier stem. The ideal seedling should be 15cm – 18cm
tall with 5 – 6 true leaves. If seedbeds are used a plant density of approximately 200 plants per
square meter is optimal. Normally seedlings will be ready in about 60 days depending on
temperature. Seedlings in seedbeds, trays or pots need to be hardened off well prior to
transplanting. Just before pulling top dress with a balanced nutrient solution. If seedbeds are
being done do not over water after sowing as lack of oxygen will inhibit germination. At
transplanting, if the weather is very hot then transplant the seedling in the cool late afternoon or
under cloud cover if any. This ensures that the transplanting shock of the seedling is minimised.
Irrigate as soon as possible after transplanting.

Pepper | Page 62
In field peppers that are not pruned the normal fruit set is about 8 fruits per plant. If the weather
permits a second, much later flush is possible after the first fruits have been harvested. By
removing the first terminal flower and developing a stronger plant before setting the first fruit
this will allow more splits and more regular fruit setting resulting in a rise of 10 – 15 more fruits.
Some outdoor growers of F1 hybrid production can achieve yields of 80 – 90 tons per hectare
from 25,000 plants.

Production in Greenhouse or tunnel structures makes space very expensive therefore growers
must achieve the highest possible yields to pay for the structures. This means cropping for as
long as possible from one planting and to avoid non-productive down time, maximising the
yield potential from every plant and from every square metre of surface. Production in these
structures normally produce the best quality. To achieve maximum yields one has to balance
the crop yield with available leaf factory. For a pepper crop to re-establish its production it
takes too long and can lead to big losses in income. A pruning program is aimed at
suppressing early fruit set and promoting the establishment of a strong plant factory. By
ensuring that all available energy goes into leaf and root growth, and thereafter maintaining
equilibrium between leaf growth and fruit development. The grower must be able to manage all
stages of fruit development on the plants, from a mature green or coloured fruit at the bottom
of the plant, through all stages of green to an open flower and new flower development at the
top of the plant.

It will also be necessary to prune side shoots until the start of flowering. When grown in
Greenhouses and tunnels the plants are normally supported by strings attached to a cross
member above the plants and the string wound around the stem to support it or by using
individual stakes. Light shade cloth of 12% white will also promote bigger leaves, lowers
temperature in hot climate areas and slightly reduce light intensities. All these factors promote
growth and fruit set in peppers.

Harvesting
Tweet pepper fruits should be harvested when they reach full size and firmness. In general a
good size fruit would weigh between 150grams – 180grams the fruit at this stage should have
nice thick walls, be firm and the blossom end well formed. Sweet or Bell peppers should be
large, blocky, 3 -4 lobed, sweet and thick fleshed. They are usually harvested before they begin
changing colour, that is if it is to be sold as green fruits. One can pick the early green fruits to
reduce the stress of the first load on the plant. Remove excess fruits as needed to stimulate
regular bearing. Coloured fruits are picked before they have turned completely red or yellow
because as they mature they become soft more quickly. Shelf life is shorter for fully coloured
peppers compared to green peppers. When the peppers are about 75% coloured they are
ready for harvesting. Stems of pepper plants are very fragile so use a sharp knife when
harvesting. Be careful not to damage the plants. Do not pick if the exterior of the fruits are
moist as this will encourage disease. Some stem MUST be left on the fruit.

Pepper | Page 63
 Post-harvest, peppers should be stored at a temperature 8° C – 10 °C and RH of 90% - 95%.
Under these ideal conditions you can store the harvested peppers for up to three weeks.

Temperature control is important as below 5 °C they will suffer chilling injury though from 7° C
and above they will continue to ripen.
The time scale from planting to production may vary from 80 – 90 days in warm weather
conditions and from 110 - 120 days in cool weather conditions. The harvesting period varies
between 10 – 12 weeks depending on how well pests and diseases are controlled.

Pepper | Page 64
 Pepper Spray Guide
Stage Nursery Transplanting Vegetative First flowers First Fruits Mature

Days: 0 - 35 28-36 30-60 60-65 65-70 +75

Pest Problems

Nematodes Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil drench

Cutworms Karate Zeon

Fruitworm & Caterpillars Ampligo / Match / karate Zeon / Proclaim

Aphids & Red Spider Mite

Polo / Actara / Dynamec

Disease Problems
Damping off Apron Star / Maxim

Bacteria spot & rot Bion / Copper Oxychloride

Cercospora (Frogeye) Amistar Top / Ortiva

Anthracnose Bravo / Amistar Top

Powdery mildew Amistar Top

Phytophthora rootcrown Ridomil Gold MZ / Folio Gold / Revus

Virus complex Actara / Ortiva

Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses
Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses Fusilade Forte

Pre-emergence: grasses + Codal Gold

Broadleaf

Pepper | Page 65
 Potato TPS
Production & Spray Guide

Potato TPS | Page 66

 Potato TPS Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

Nursery Bed
- 1 metre in width and 50metres in length.
- This is enough area for 1 hectare of seedlings.

Fertilizer
- Compound “S” at 1kg per square metre.
- Or 1kg Cow Manure per square metre.
- Or 1.5kg Compost per square metre.

Dig or chop in fertilizer to 10cm in depth. Make sure the soil has a fine tilth. Open a furrow 5mm
deep across the width of the bed. Furrows will be at 10cm intervals across the bed. Sow the
T.P.S. at 2 grams per square metre, 100grams should do 500 lines. Cover the seed in the furrow
with sieved compost.

Cover the bed with vlei grass to form a mulch so the soil is just visible through the mulch.
Water by rose at least three times a day until germinated. Keep soil moist.
After 8 – 10 days the seed should germinate.
Apply Karate over the bed to control cutworm.
Once the first leaves are about match head size remove mulch. Keep watering at least twice a
day.

At the 3 leaf stage or at 14 days after germination top dress with A.N. at 5gr. Per metre square.
Dissolve the A.N. in a can of water and then apply through the rose. After top dressing with
A.N. wash fertilizer off the leaves with water to prevent burning the small plants with A.N. Do
this as required if seedling colour is pale.

Seedlings should be ready about 42 days after sowing or when 4-5 true leaf stage.

Transplanting
- Prepare the main field and make sure there is a fine tilth.
- Soil PH 5.0 to 5.5 Do not Lime prior to planting
- Basal 1500 – 2000kg Compound “S” Depending on the soil type.
- Make furrow 8 – 12 cm deep and 90cm apart. Place the seedling in the pre irrigated furrow
25cm apart in the furrow. Cover the seedling up to the 1st node.
- Irrigate the field immediately after transplanting.
- After 3 weeks do the earthing up. After the next 3 weeks do the second earthing up. You
should now have a ridge about 30cm in height.

Potato TPS | Page 67

 Top Dressing
- Apply 150-200kgs/hect. A.N. depending on soil type at 3 weeks after transplanting.
- Apply 75-100kgs/hect A.N. at 5 weeks Also apply 200kg Sulphate of Potash at 1st flowering
and another 200kg Sulphate of Potash two weeks after 1st flower.

Irrigation
- Light soils 25-30mm every 3 – 4 days in hot months and
5- 7 days in cool months
- Heavy soils 30-35mm every 4 – 5 days in hot months
8 – 9 days in cool months

Harvesting
About 90 – 100 days after transplanting, cut haulms .
-
Allow 10 days for Potato tuber skin to harden then lift.

Fungal Disease
Control recommendations
Early Blight:- Amistar Top 100ml/100lts water. Start at 1st sign of the disease
Or Bravo 720 1lt/100lts water. Start at 1st sign of the disease.
Late Blight:- Revus 100ml/100lts water. Start when weather conditions favour disease
development i.e. rains
Or Folio Gold 400ml/100lts water. Start when weather conditions favour disease i.e. rains.
Broad Spectrum Control Leaf Blight Spot. Copper Oxychloride 2kg/100lt water. Spray weekly
after rain or each irrigation.

Virus Disease Control

Bion 30g/100lt water. Important if seed is to be kept for commercial plantings. Start 3 weeks
after transplanting and every 3 weeks with the maximum of 3 applications.

Pests
Cutworm - Karate 50mls/100lts water. Band spray over the rows.
Potato Tuber Moth - Ampligo 60mls/100lt water. When pest seen.
Aphids - Actara 40gm/100lt water. When pests seen.
Leaf Miner - Dynamec 250mls/100lts water. Control adults. Spray when seen.
Trigard 75grs/100lts water. Spray when Mines seen on leaves.

Yields 30 to 45 tons per hectare.

Potato TPS | Page 68

 Potato TPS Spray Guide

Stage Pre-Plant Planting to Rapid Canopy Tuber Complete canopy Maturation Agrochemical Rate/ha grams or Spray EU Days to
Early Leaves initiation and tuber growth & Senescence
emergence to flowering and growth ml/100 Lts Interval MRL Harvest
Days: -7 0-14 14-28 28-42 35-49 70-91 91-120 water @ 500 (days) mg/kg (phi)
Lts water/ha
Pest Problems
Actara 25 WG 400 gm 4 g/1,5Lts n/a 1 n/a
Nematodes Solvigo drench water/100m furrow
Actara 25 WG foliar 200 gm 40 7-14 1-2 7
Soil Pest & Aphids Actara Soil Drench
spray
Ampligo 150 ZC 200-400 ml 40-80 14 2-4 7
Cutworm Karate Zeon
Amistar Top 325 SC 500 ml 100 7-14 2-4
Leafminer - Lyriomyza Bravo 720 SC 1.5 Lts 300 7-10 4-6 3
Trigards / Dynamec
Dynamec 560 ml 115 14 3-4 3
Red Spider Mites Folio Gold 537,5 SC 2Lts 400 10 2-3 14
Dynamec / Polo
Karate Zeon 5CS 100 ml in 150 Lts water 70 na 1 3
Potato Tuber Moth Match 050 EC 600 ml 120 10-14 2-4 7
Ampligo / Match / Proclaim
Maxim XL 035 FS 500 ml / ton tubers na 1 na
Aphids Polo / Ampligo / Actara Oritiva 600 - 800 ml 60 - 120 10 2-1 7
Polo 500 SC 500 ml 100 7 2 21
Disease Problems Proclaim 05 SG 250 g 50 7-14 2 1
Black &SilverScurfs: Soft Revus 250 SC 500 ml 100 7-14 2-4 3
Maxim / Ortiva Drench
rot, common scab Ridomil Gold MZ 68 WG 2.5 kg 100 7-14 1-2 14
Early blight / Alternaria Solvigo 3 Lts 50 n/a 1 n/a
Copper Oxy / Bravo / Amistar Top

Late Blight Trigard 75 WP 150 g 30 7-14 3-4 14

Foilo Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold
Dual Magnum 960 EC 1 Lts 200 na 1 na
virus complex Fusilade Forte 1.25 Lts 250 na 1 28
Actara Soil Drench
Gramoxone 2 Lts 400 na na
Weed Problems Touchdown 2 lts 400 na 28
Before planting - post * No of appl’ns = Number of applications per crop cycle; depend on problem pressure,
Touchdown weather conditions and crops chemical alternations.
emergence perennials
Before planting - post
Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses
Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses
Fusilade Forte

Dessication Gramoxone

Potato TPS | Page 69

 Potato Tubers
Production & Spray Guide

Potato Tubers | Page 70

 Potato Tubers Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

Climate
Potatoes thrive under warm day temperatures and cool nights. The optimum mean temperature
ranges from 16-20 C. Severe frost will kill a crop. A minimum of 400mm of water is required to
grow the crop

Soils
Potatoes can be grown on a wide range of soil types. Being shallow rooted and fast growing
potatoes are generally grown on heavier textured soils. However with suitable fertilization and
good management the lighter soils can produce good yields. A well drained soil is essential.

Soil pH
A wide pH range of 4.2-5.8 (Calcium chloride method) is tolerated. The optimum pH lies
between 5.0-5.5. It is not advisable to lime just prior to planting a potato crop as this can
increase the incidence of potato scab (related to high soil pH). Lime should therefore be applied
at some other stage of rotation.

Land Preparation
Good, deep ploughing is essential. A depth of at least 30cm is recommended. A ne tilth is
necessary for good tuber development.
In the case of grass leys, virgin soils or following leguminous green crops, the land should be
ploughed several months before planting to enable the organic matter to rot down. This is
important as soils rich in organic matter may aggravate the occurrence of Potato Scab. Under
these conditions an application of 100kg/Ha Ammonium Nitrate will assist the breakdown of
organic matter. Should a potato crop follow other crops a single ploughing and harrowing is all
that’s necessary.

Seed
The use of high quality seed is of vital importance.

The risk of virus infection makes the choice of seed a major consideration. Certified seed will
usually produce 15-20% higher yields than standard seed and will cover the additional costs.
Three grades of seed are available to growers. Grade AA and XX is available for a limited period
(May-July) in any one-year. Grade A is available throughout the year.

Potato Tubers | Page 71

 Grade AA – produced in Nyanga
Varietal Purity: 99.5%
Health: Not more than 0.25% leaf roll or severe mosaic virus.
Not more than 2% visible mild mosaic.
No bacterial wilt at any stage of growth.

Grade A
Varietal Purity: 99.5%
Health: Not more than 1% leaf roll or severe mosaic virus.
Not more than 2% visible mild mosaic

Grade XX – produced in Nyanga

As for Grade AA but tubers have been subjected to a limited amount of mechanical damage.

Fertilization Requirements
Potatoes require relatively large quantities of fertilizers because of their shallow roots and
because of their need to bulk up within a short growing period.

Macronutrients:
(N)Nitrogen: This is an important nutrient, however excessive dressings lead to excessive
vegetative growth at the expense of yield. Excessive dressings or late
applications of nitrogen result in tuber initiation and may result in physiological
disorders of the tubers such as hollow heart. Potatoes require about 5kg of
nitrogen per ton of tubers produced.
(P25)Phosphate: Potatoes have reasonably high requirement for this nutrient over a short
period. Potatoes require about 4kg of phosphate per ton of tubers
produced.
(K2)Potash: The crop requirements for potash are very high. An adequate supply of this
nutrient can increase resistance to drought, frost and disease. Potash aids tuber
quality and should be applied in the sulphate or nitrate forms, as potatoes are
relatively sensitive to chlorine. Positive results have been obtained using
Potassium Nitrate foliar sprays to increase yield and increase frost resistance.
Potatoes require about 9.12kg of potash per ton of tubers produced.
Calcium: Potatoes respond well to calcium as it plays a role in tuber development. Most
compound fertilizers contain 10-12% calcium but if the Calcium status of the soil
is very poor, additional nutrient can be applied as Gypsum before planting or as
foliar sprays of Calcium Nitrate. Potatoesequire
r about 3.25kg of calcium per ton
of tubers produced.
Magnesium: This nutrient is required for a potato crop but not in large quantities. Magnesium
deficiencies are unlikely to occur where a liming material has been applied. A
magnesium deficiency can be corrected by a foliar spray of 2kg Magnesium
Sulphate per 100L water + 30ml Sanawett (wetter).

Potato Tubers | Page 72

Sulphur: Adequate quantities of sulphur are applied when using a compound fertilizer such
as compound C or compound S as a basal fertilizer. Sulphate of Potash used as a
top dressing also contains adequate sulphur.

Trace Elements:
These are required in very small quantities by the crop. Most soils contain adequate levels of
micronutrients but in the past specific instances of zinc and boron deficiencies have occurred.
These deficiencies can be recognised and rectified as follows:

Zinc: Leaves develop irregular grayish brown or bronze spots. Affected leaves are usually half
way up the plant, but in severe cases all leaves show symptoms. In extreme cases
internodes remain short and leaves small and thick. Spots develop on petioles and
stems, top leaves assume a slightly vertical position and margins of leaves may curl
upward so that growth resembles that of a fern. To rectify this deficiency mix 200g Zinc
Oxide in 100L water and apply 300 – 400L of solution per Ha as a foliar spray while crop
is young. This treatment is unnecessary where regular sprays of Dithane M45 are being
used.
Boron: Deficiency symptoms are indicated by deaths of growing points and lateral buds
develop. The internodes remain short, giving the plant a bushy appearance. The upper
leaves tend to be dark green, tough, with a shiny surface and with an upward curling of
the leaf margins. Tuber symptoms show the vascular rings turning partially or completely
brown and rapid discolouration of the cat surface. As the fertilizer compounds
recommended for use on potatoes contain boron this should be sufficient for the plants
requirements.

The symptoms of excess boron are poor stands due to indifferent sprouting. Sprouts die off
after some growth has taken place. Roots fail to develop satisfactorily. Leaves become
bleached or develop marginal yellowing. Do not exceed application of 2kg elemental boron per
Ha.

Timing And Application Of Fertilizers

To ensure that the soil can supply adequate nutrients a carefully planned fertilizer program is
needed. The required rates of fertilization vary considerably according to land history, soil type,
variety, climate and yield expectations. To establish the correct rate of fertilization it is advisable
to have a soil sample analysed by a laboratory and to discuss the result with your local ZFC
agronomist, whose knowledge of local conditions will be of great assistance.
All the phosphate and the majority of the nitrogen and potash should be applied at or before
planting. This is usually done as a basal dressing of a compound fertilizer. The remaining
nutrients are applied as a top dressing.

Potato Tubers | Page 73

 The traditional recommendations have been to use Compound S (7:21:7). This fertilizer is high
in phosphate and low in boron (0.04%). Compound S should be used on sandy soils and on
soils that are low in phosphate, however the potash content is inadequate and the crop will
require further top dressings of potash if S is used.

The other alternative is to use Compound C (6:17:15). This is probably the better compound to
use for potatoes as the potash content is relatively high and phosphate is adequate.

Standard suggestions for potato fertilisation are:

1 Apply 1300 – 1500kg/Ha Compound S at planting, rate depending on the sandyness
and phosphate status of the soil.
At three weeks after emergence apply 150 – 200kg/Ha AN as a top-dressing.
Top dress with 400 – 500kg/Ha Sulphate of potash split into two equal applications, one at
flowering and the other two weeks after flowering.
(Potassium Nitrate at 450kg/Ha can be used in place of AN and Sulphate of potash).

OR

2 Apply 1300 – 1500kg/Ha Compound C at planting.

Apply 200kg/Ha AN 3 weeks after emergence as a top dressing.
Top dress with 200 – 300kg/Ha Sulphate of potash split into two equal applications, one at
flowering and the other two weeks after flowering.
(Potassium Nitrate at 450kg/Ha can be used in place of AN and Sulphate of potash).

When applying the basal Compound S or C applications, it is preferable to band the fertiliser to
the side of the seed. If suitable banding equipment is not available it may be placed in the
furrow with the seed. A degree of fertiliser burn can result from this practice. To reduce this
possible effect a single line may be drawn along the bottom of the furrow to mix it with the soil,
or a fertiliser covered with a thin layer of soil before planting the seed.

Another efficient method of application is to broadcast the fertiliser after ridging, set the seed in
the furrow then split the ridge back over the seed.

When tubers are in direct contact with the fertiliser a good initial irrigation will reduce the
chances of burn occurring.

Planting Depth
Seed should be set 7.5cm below the surface of heavy soil and 10 – 15cm in lighter soils. Deep
plantings take longer to emerge and are more prone to attack by cutworm and other soil pests.
However, the deep plantings are better protected against tuber moth attack and tuber
greening.

Potato Tubers | Page 74

Under irrigation the crop will emerge more quickly and will mature earlier when planted shallow
and the seed covered by leveling the soil. Alternatively planting deeper but covering the seed
with 2.5 – 5cm of soil then re-ridging two or three times during growth will produce similar
results.

It should therefore be noted that the majority of tubers develop above the seed, care should
therefore be exercised to make adequate soil available for tuber development.

Seeding Rate And Spacing

Seeding rate is determined by the mass of seed to be used. The recommended rates are as
follows:
Summer crop: Ware - 70pockets/Ha
Seed - 85pockets/Ha
Irrigated winter crop:Ware - 85pockets/Ha
Seed - 110pockets/Ha

The distance between rows will depend on available equipment – usually 90cm. This spacing
in the rows will depend on the seed size. The following table gives the in-row spacing at
various row widths and various seeding rates:

Planting Distance Table

NOTE:
Spacing is related to hollow heart – large tubers tend to be more prone to this physiological disorder, therefore
varieties which tend to produce larger tubers should be planted at closer spacing to reduce tuber size.

A pocket of seed weighs 30kg

The average number f tubers per pocket is as follows:
Small: average number of tubers 1085 – 1200 (typical mass 30g each)
Medium: average number of tubers 450 – 500 (typical mass 60g each)
Large: average number of tubers 250 (typical mass 120g each)

Potato Tubers | Page 75

 It should therefore be noted that when a seed tuber is planted the sprouts give rise to a number
of stems above the ground. These stems are in fact individual plants. Large seed tubers
produce a large number of sprouts and so more stems or plants than small tubers. Only where
extra large seed tubers are involved should cutting of the seed be necessary to achieve the
desired seed rate.

Adjustments to the seed rate should be made for variations in soil fertility and variety. Varieties
noted for producing large numbers of tubers per plant will benefit from lower seed rates and
vice versa.

Tuber sprouting can be improved by using Gibberellic Acid. Uncut tubers can be dipped in a
solution of 16ml Gibberellic Acid per 100L of water and cut tubers can be dipped in 3.2ml
Gibberellic Acid per 100L of water. Leave the tubers to dry in a cool place and then plant as
soon as the first sprouts start to appear.

Time Of Planting
Although potatoes can be grown all year round, high temperatures in summer and frost in
winter are limiting factors. Three times of plantings are the most common in Zimbabwe.

First winter crop: This is planted from February through to April. The chosen time will be
dictated by the rainfall pattern and the frost incidence. Late blight can be excessive and
varieties with good resistance to this disease should be given preference.
In lower altitude frost-free areas, planting should be delayed until march/April to take
advantage of the cooler climate in winter. Supplementary irrigation is essential. Preventative
spraying for late blight should be practised during periods of overcast or wet weather.
When heavy frost is anticipated a 1 – 2% solution of potassium nitrate applied as a foliar spray
early in the evening may reduce frost damage.

Second winter crop: This is planted in July/august as soon as the main danger of frost is over.
Full irrigation is required. With flood irrigation late blight is unlikely to be a problem. The risk of
late blight is increased when overhead irrigation is practised and spraying will be necessary
after the blossom stage. Rising temperatures and longer days in spring and early summer
improve yields in the medium to high altitude areas. In the lowveld lifting should be timed to
occur before the very high temperatures of September/October as these affect tuber quality.

Planting Method
A good tilth is necessary if a good uniform stand is to be obtained. Ridging is essential when
flood irrigation is used. Under overhead irrigation planting can be carried out on the flat and
then ridged up later.

Potato Tubers | Page 76

Planting by hand can be practised behind a tractor drawn ridger, which opens the furrows.
When no ridger is available a 3 – furrow plough can be used. The tubers are placed in an open
furrow and are closed by the soil thrown during the following pass. The wheels of the tractor
cannot run in the open furrow when using this method of planting.

Cultivation
Potatoes are extremely sensitive to root damage. Cultivation should be kept to a minimum. As
tubers must be well covered and protected from greening and tuber moth, ridging up is
essential. Re-ridging should be completed by the time the plant is 25cm high. Care should be
exercised at all times to ensure that no tubers are exposed. This will reduce the incidence of
tuber moth.

The ridges should be made as low as is consistent with good coverage for the tubers and for
efficient flood irrigation where practised. High steep ridges are subject to greater erosion and
more rapid drying due to the greater surface area exposed to the sun.

Wide flat-topped ridges, making adequate soil available for tuber development and tuber
protection are the most satisfactory.

Irrigation
Obviously for good yields of high quality adequate water is required. Potatoes are sensitive ton
drought from tuber initiation to tuber maturity.

Potatoes are shallow rooted with a maximum root depth of 60cm. Lands should be brought up
to field capacity to this depth at planting. No further irrigation should be necessary during
emergence. From the start of the tuber development (first flower buds) the crop should be
watered regularly ensuring that all stress is avoided until the plants turn brown at maturity.

A guide to irrigation frequency and water requirements for fully canopied crops is given below:

Excessive watering should be avoided since this leads to undue leaching of plant nutrients and
reduces the keeping quality of potatoes.

It is important to avoid bursts of growth (either through irrigation of fertilisation), as this tends to
increase the incidence of hollow heart.

Drip irrigation on potatoes is becoming widely used – please contact Prime Seed or
agronomist for more technical advice on this subject.

Potato Tubers | Page 77

 Potato Tubers Spray Guide

Stage Pre-Plant Planting to Rapid Canopy Tuber Maturation Agrochemical Rate/ha grams or Spray EU Days to
Early Leaves Initiation Complete canopy

Potato Tubers | Page 78

emergence to flowering and Growth and tuber growth & Senescene ml/100 Lts Interval MRL Harvest
Days: -7 0-14 14-28 28-42 35-49 70-91 91-120 water @ 500 (days) mg/kg (phi)
Lts water/ha
Pest Problems
Actara 25 WG 400 gm 4 g/1,5Lts n/a 1 n/a
Nematodes Solvigo drench water/100m furrow
Actara 25 WG foliar 200 gm 40 7-14 1-2 7
Soil Pest & Aphids Actara Soil Drench
spray
Ampligo 150 ZC 200-400 ml 40-80 14 2-4 7
Cutworm Karate Zeon
Amistar Top 325 SC 500 ml 100 7-14 2-4
Leafminer - Lyriomyza Bravo 720 SC 1.5 Lts 300 7-10 4-6 3
Trigard / Dynamec
Dynamec 560 ml 115 14 3-4 3
Red Spider Mites Folio Gold 5 5 SC 2Lts 400 10 2-3 14
Dynamec / Polo
Karate37 Zeon 5CS 100 ml in 150 Lts water 70 na 1 3
Potato Tuber Moth , 10-14
Match 050 EC 600 ml 120 2-4 7
Ampligo / Match / Proclaim
Maxim XL 035 FS 500 ml / ton tubers na 1 na
Aphids Polo / Ampligo / Actara Oritiva 600 - 800 ml 60 - 120 10 2-1 7
Polo 500 SC 500 ml 100 7 2 21
Disease Problems Proclaim 05 SG 250 g 50 7-14 2 1
Black &SilverScurfs: Soft Revus 250 SC 500 ml 100 7-14 2-4 3
Maxim / Ortiva Drench
rot, common scab Ridomil Gold MZ 68 WG 2.5 kg 100 7-14 1-2 14
Early blight / Alternaria Solvigo 3 Lts 50 n/a 1 n/a
Copper Oxy / Bravo / Amistar Top

Late Blight Trigard 75 WP 150 g 30 7-14 3-4 14

Foilo Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold
Dual Magnum 960 EC 1 Lts 200 na 1 na
virus complex Fusilade Forte 1.25 Lts 250 na 1 28
Actara Soil Drench
Gramoxone 2 Lts 400 na na
Weed Problems Touchdown 2 lts 400 na 28
Before planting - post * No of appl’ns = Number of applications per crop cycle; depend on problem pressure,
Touchdown weather conditions and crops chemical alternations.
emergence perennials
Before planting - post
Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses
Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses
Fusilade Forte

Dessication
Gramoxone
 Squashes
Production & Spray Guide

Squashes | Page 79
 Squashes Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

Soil requirements
Butternuts prefer well drained sandy loam to loam soils with a high calcium content. Butternuts
like growing in soils with a PH value of between 5.5 to 6.3. If less than 5.5 agricultural lime
should be applied in accordance with soil analysis results. Low PH soils have Molybdenum and
Calcium deficiencies which reduce the keeping quality of the fruits. Soil temperatures are
important for good germination. Germination takes up to 3 weeks in soil temperatures between
10°C and 13°C, which makes the growth and management of the crop difficult. Soil
temperatures around 15°C will result in good germination of around 7 days. 20°C gives
maximum root development and even crops. Fields need to be prepared either by ploughing or
rip and disc. If direct seeding, soil should be worked to a good tilth without too many big clods.
It should be as level as possible to ensure even plant emergence, so irrigation or rainfall cannot
form puddles. Be careful of crusting at emergence a light irrigation may be necessary.

Climatic conditions
Butternuts are far less sensitive to unfavourable growing conditions than most other cucurbits.
Butternuts prefer a warm dry climate and best growing conditions are when the temperature is
between 20°C - 25°C with a maximum of 32°C, night temperatures not lower than 10°C. At
higher temperature range as indicated female flowers can abort and young fruit can wilt and
shrivel. There is a tendency for plants to produce less female flowers with high temperatures
and long days.

Planting time
For advice on varieties for seasons and the market place contact a Prime Seed Agronomist for
his recommendations. Butternuts can be planted as soon as the risk of frost is over and
temperatures are between the ranges stated earlier. Timing is important when planting so crops
can mature before the hot humid summer rainfall conditions form as this can result in serious
leaf disease problems. Aphids are usually a problem also at this time and can spread virus
diseases very quickly. Direct seeding makes the germinating seed susceptible to attack by
pathogens such as Fuserium and Rhizoctonia. Also rats and mice are a huge problem as they
dig up and eat the germinating seed. Baiting with rat poison for these pests is most important
to avoid heavy seed losses. A recommendation is for F1 hybrid seeds to be raised in a
recognised nursery like Prime Plants Nursery because of the high cost of the seed. By doing
speedlings early while soil temperatures warm up the crop will be 2 – 3 weeks earlier than if
direct seeded. Depth for direct planting of seed is 25 – 30mm, for speedlings just cover to level
of the top of the plug. Make sure good plug to soil contact is achieved to ensure rapid take off
of seedlings in the fertilized enriched soil.

Squashes | Page 80
Spacing
This depends on the cultivar, if it is a semi bush or vine type, the market place and the irrigation
system to be used. With overhead irrigation a single row 1.5m to 1.8m between rows and
plants 0.5m to 0.8m in row. This gives a population of approximately 11,000 – 16,000 plants
per hectare. Semi bush types can be planted in double rows 0.5m- 0.6m apart with plants 0.5m
apart in row and 1.5m to 1.8m between the double rows. This gives 16,700 – 20,000 plants per
hectare. This can help with weed control and gives smaller fruits where this is desirable for the
market place.

Irrigation
As the butternut plant is of desert origin it has a determined root system. Butternut plants have
a deep tap root to utilise water deep down in the soil whereas the shallow fibrous root system
draws the water just below the surface. Butternuts irrigated by overhead sprinklers have root
systems which spread at much the same rate as the vines on the surface. Drip irrigation makes
an “Onion” shape of water in the soil and the roots are confined to the “Onion”. Over irrigation
with drip if incorrectly applied causes a lot of problems with Butternuts. The soil will get over
saturated in the “Onion” zone depleting the oxygen level in the soil so no roots will develop
there. Calcium will therefore not be easily available in over irrigated soil leading to calcium
deficiency and blossom end rot. It is usually preferable to under irrigate the crop while young
except at the critical stage of fruit set when the water amount should be increased. Clay soils
tend to waterlog easily so let them dry out to some extent between irrigations, to allow oxygen
to re enter the root zone. Sandy soils require more regular irrigation to keep the soil moist.
Loam to clay loam soils need only to be watered every second day.

Fertilization
For a good crop of Butternuts the plant will require some
200kg N: 50kg P: 500kg K, 120kg Ca and 70kg Mg per hectare. A guide is to use 600/800kgs
compound
“D” per hectare. 3 top dressings of 75kg per hectare AN at 3-5-7 weeks. All cucurbits are
sensitive to Molybdenum deficiency. Symptoms are stunted growth and overall yellowing of the
leaves. If the PH is above 5.5 more Molybdenum will be available. Seedlings can be sprayed
with Sodium Molybdate at 120g in 500 litres water per hectare, which should be sufficient but a
second spray can be done at fruit set. Boron is essential for root hair growth through which
Calcium is taken up. Boron can be sprayed on shortly before fruit set and 2 – 3 weeks later.
Boron deficiency is indicated by a clear yellowish to light green rim to the leaf. Copper sprays
can cause similar symptoms and stunt leaves so be careful with excess copper sprays.

Squashes | Page 81
Under irrigation the crop will emerge more quickly and will mature earlier when planted shallow
and the seed covered by leveling the soil. Alternatively planting deeper but covering the seed
with 2.5 – 5cm of soil then re-ridging two or three times during growth will produce similar
Pollination
Bees are the main pollinators of the Butternut crop. Bees are thought to be responsible for over
90%of its pollination. The female flower must be visited several times for efficient pollination.
The use of 2 to 3 beehives per hectare is recommended.

Harvesting
Butternuts usually take 85 to 100 days to harvest. Before the fruits are ready for harvest the
stage of ripeness should show the rind an even beige in colour, with no green ground colour or
blotches, the stalk hard but- not dry. There may still be green stripes at the stem end. At this
stage the fruits are suitable-to the local market, but the internal colour will be slightly pale and
keeping quality poor. To achieve a high sugar content and a dark orange flesh leave the fruit to
ripen on the vine. Once the-green stripes on the fruits have almost gone, plants can be left to
dry out. If irrigation continues at this stage the fruits will swell and crack. When harvesting cut
the stalk 10 to 15mm above the thickened attachment to the fruit, this cut must not leave sharp
edges or a point which could pierce other fruits during handling and storage.

Yields 30 to 45 tons per hectare.

Squashes | Page 82
 Squashes Spray Guide

Stage Pre-Plant Planting to Vegetative First Flowers Pod Development Peak Picking
Emergence & First Picking
Days (Courgettes): -7 0-10 10-28 28-35 35-42 45-60

Days (Butternut): -7 0-10 10-42 42-49 49-56 100

Pest Problems:
Nemetodes Solvigo

Soil Pests Actara Soil Drench

Cutworm
Karate Zeon

Leafminer
Trigard/Dynamec/

Red Spider Mites

Curacron/dynamec/Polo

Pumkin Fly Lebaycid

Disease Problems
Damping Off Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Complex Amistar Top / Score

Powdery Mildew Revus/Ridomil Gold/Folio

Anthracnose Bravo / Amistar Top / Score

Virus Complex Actara Soil Drench

Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Post-emergence: grasses Fusilade Forte

Nutgrass (Yellow + Purple)

Servian

Squashes | Page 83
 Sugar Bean
Production & Spray Guide

Sugar Bean | Page 84

 Sugar Bean Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

General Description
The dry bean is an important field crop because of its high protein content and dietary benefits.
Dry Beans are a warm season legume being upright or bush type plants. Small flowers are
produced in clusters at various nodes on the stalks and can be either white or lavender in
colour. The flowers are self-pollinating. Flowering continues for 2 – 3 weeks, so there can be a
mixture of new pods, half developed pods and pods nearing full development. This calls for
good scouting for pest management. The first half of the growing period is vegative
development and the latter half is reproduction. The crop matures in 85 to 120 days from
planting. As the pods mature they change from green to light brown or tan. Each pod can
contain 2-4 seeds. Yields can vary from 600kg per hectare up to 1.5 tons per hectare.

Planting
Generally early January to late February in the Highveld and right through to mid- August in the
Low veld frost free areas. The soil temperature must be above 13°C for optimum germination
results. Dry Bean production requires a warm climate with temperatures between 18° C - 24°
C. The maximum temperature during the flowering period should not exceed 30° C as high
temperatures will cause flower drop and thus low pod set, resulting in depressed yields. Beans
require a minimum of 400mm to 500mm rain fall during its growing season but totals of 600mm
to 650mm is considered ideal. Irrigation is also required where the crop is growing out of the
rains and in winter production in the Low Veld area. The critical growth stage requiring rainfall
or irrigation is during flowering and pod set. Irrigation should stop when roughly 25% of the
bean pods have turned yellow.

Soil Preparation
The soil needs to be ploughed or ripped to a depth of 300mm then disced to get a good tilth,
the soil needs to be firm at planting and a level seedbed prepared to ensure even
germination. A level firm seed bed ensures good surface contact between the seed and soil.
Planting depth of the seed should be 2.5cm to 4.5cm below the soil surface

Spacing
The optimum spacing between rows is 75cm. A spacing of 90cm is also used when agricultural
machinery is set up for maize planting. Seed spacing in row is between 60mm to 75mm.
Generally around 177,000 to 200,000 plants per hectare will give good results.

Sugar Bean | Page 85

 Fertilization
Beans will do best with a soil PH of 5.5 – 5.8 . Beans are very sensitive to acidic soils. If the PH
is not at these levels then apply lime as per the soil sample recommendations. Beans can be
planted into soils which have been well fertilized for previous crops though slight top ups at
planting will be beneficial. A rate of 250kg per hectare of Compound ”D” drilled in with the
planter, or broadcasted with a Vicon before the final discing before planting. Calcium Sulphate
(Gypsum) at 250kg per hectare as a top dressing just prior to flowering will help with pod set. If
a previous crops residue has been ploughed or disced in then extra Nitrogen will be needed to
help composting or breaking down of the material. Discuss this with your Agronomist regarding
rates. Beans are not capable of satisfying all their Nitrogen requirements through Nitrogen
fixation hence the need for a basal fertilizer with good levels of N.

Weed Problems
This is very important in growing a dry bean crop. Bean plants compete poorly with weeds as
they are low growing and do not over shadow weeds. Weeds that are not controlled will
interfere with the harvesting and threshing of the crop.

Sugar Bean | Page 86

 Sugar Bean Spray Guide

Stage Pre-Plant Planting to Vegetative First Flowers Pod Development Peak Picking
Emergence & First Picking
Days: -7 0-10 10-40 30-40 40-60 +65

Pest Problems

Bean Stem Maggot Apron Star Seed Dress

Beetles Karate Zeon

Cutworms Karate Zeon

Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo

Podworm & Caterpillars

Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

Aphids & Whitefly Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Chess

Disease Problems
Seed/Soil Disease Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Complex Amistar Top / Score

Anthracnose Bravo / Amistar Top

Rust Amistar Top/Bravo / Copper Oxy

Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses
Fusilade Forte

Pre-emergence: grasses + Bateleur Gold

Broadleaf
Post-emergence: Servian
Nutgrass

Sugar Bean | Page 87

 Tunnel Tomato
Production & Spray Guide

Tunnel Tomato | Page 88

 Tunnel Tomato Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution”

Varieties
This first step in tomato production is generally determined by market requirements, i.e. size,
truss, shelf life and marketers will need to be consulted before you make your decision. Some
good yielding varieties are:
Thomas, Birsen
Any variety chosen should ideally be an indeterminate type which means the plants will
continue growing indefinitely as long as pests and diseases are kept to a minimum and they
have an adequate nutrient supply. The bush or determinate type of tomatoes, traditionally
grown outdoors, are not recommended for growing in tunnels.
Indeterminate varieties can last up to 8 months in a tunnel. Prime Seed recommends long shelf
life tomatoes because they reduce losses incurred by growers, supermarkets, hawkers,
wholesalers etc. the majority of our population has no access to fridges so long shelf tomatoes
are a must for them.

Seedlings
Seedlings used for transplanting in tunnels must be strong, healthy and free from virus and
diseases. Seed planted during winter months will take a minimum of 8 weeks before
transplanting and those in summer months will take 5-6 weeks before they are ready for
transplanting. Timing of planting is determined by when the highest prices are achieved on the
fresh market. (In general it takes 10-12 weeks from transplanting to first harvest). As soon as
seedlings are 12-15cm tall they are ready for transplanting.

There are several different options that may be used such as pine shavings (NOT sawdust),
pine bark and cocus. The most commonly used growing media in Zimbabwe is pine bark. It is a
good inert media that provides adequate aeration and due to the composting process is free of
diseases.

Pre-enrichment of pine bark.

Per one m3 of 12mm pine bark (15 x 66 litre bags) add the following:-
1 kg gypsum
0,88kg single super phosphate
2 kg calcitic lime

Tunnel Tomato | Page 89

 Containers
Tomatoes may be grown in a variety of different containers. The ones most popular are the black
grow bags (10-15 litre) and sausages.

Order them without holes and then perforate at 1.5” above the ground. This acts as a reservoir in
case of electricity interruptions or other delays in irrigation.
noted for producing large numbers of tubers per plant will benefit from lower seed rates and
This is a tube of black plastic of 150-200 micron thick and diameter of 37cm. Cut into 2,1m
lengths and tie at one end. Pine bark must be well compacted into the bag before tying the other
end and cutting the planting holes. Seedling holes cut every 40cm apart using a jam tin will give 5
plants/sausage. Drainage holes must be placed 1 1⁄2” from the ground using a pencil or wire.
These holes should only be inserted on one side of the sausage which then drains into a furrow.
This prevents the pathways becoming flooded and reduces the clean-up operation required to
mop up stagnant water.

Planting
The growing media should be well irrigated with stage 1 nutrient solution prior to planting in the
bags. The twine should be planted under the seedlings where the roots will soon anchor it down.
This is not necessary in the case of the sausages where twine can be tied around the bag.
Plant spacing in row is 40cm with 60cm between double rows. The pathway between double
rows varies between 1,3 – 1,6m. In an 8m wide tunnel the maximum number of rows is 8 (4
double rows).

Fertilizer
Growing tomatoes in a soilless media requires greater management than those grown in soil.
There is very little margin for error as there is no clay portion to act as a buffer or store for
residual nutrients. An essential management tool is an EC meter which gives the grower an
indication of fertilizer going into the bag and a measure of how much is coming out in the
leachate.
Every time water is applied it must contain fertiliser. Before giving a fertiliser recommendation it is
important that the irrigation water is analysed. A good laboratory to use is Analytical Laboratories
11A Downing Road, Greendale, Harare.

Fertilisation is split into 2 stages:-

1. Stage 1: Planting to 3rd flowering truss.

Target level (ppm)

Bicarb N P 20 5 K 20 Ca Mg + Micronutrients
61 160 100 270 130 60

Tunnel Tomato | Page 90

2. Stage 2: Third flowering truss onwards.
(ppm)
Bicarb N P 20 5 K 20 Ca Mg + Micronutrients
Target level 61 160 90 320 130 65

Regular sprays of calcium nitrate @ 10g per litre to prevent blossom end rot will also be
necessary.
These solutions can be made up from water soluble products obtainable from ImpHort and other
horticultural outlets. The micronutrients are supplied in a pre-mixed state called Omnispoor @
20g/1000 litres.
Concentrated stock solutions have to be made up in separate tanks as calcium cannot be mixed
with phosphates and sulphates.

Electrical Conductivity (EC)

The EC of the fertigation solution must be checked regularly in order to monitor the fertiliser going
onto the plants is correct and that there has not been a mistake in making up of stock solutions.
When the leachate EC is 0,2 of a unit higher than fertigation EC, then the fertiliser must be
reduced by 20%. If the leachate EC is 0,2 lower then the fertiliser must be increased by 20%.

Irrigation
There are numerous irrigation designs that may be used but the only container that lends itself to
using drip tape is the sausage. The system must be able to give the plants 2,5–3 litres per day at
maximum production in summer. Young plants will use 300-500mls per day. This is usually
applied in two applications. As the demand for water increases so the number of applications per
day will also increase.
Water usage by the plants is monitored by collecting the amount of leachate draining from the
bag. The minimum quantity of leachate should be 10% of the water given to the plant. A
maximum of 20% emittance is required to prevent loss of expensive fertiliser, e.g. if 500mls is
applied to each plant then the quantity of leachate should be 50-100 mls.

Sanitation
This is vitally important in order to maintain a healthy crop for a long period of time. Simple
measures may be put in place to prevent devastation of a crop by virus and diseases.
A selection of different chemicals may be used such as Sodium Hypochlorite, Sporekill and
Terminator. Personnel from Cernol Chemicals give good advice on rates and selection of
chemicals.

Tunnel Tomato | Page 91

 Removal of leaves/fruit
It is important to remove leaves at the bottom of the plant as they interrupt the flow of air and
are a source of infection by Botrytis. The removals should be done on a fortnightly basis and
not more than 2 leaves at a time to be removed. When the first cluster shows signs of ripening,
the leaves may be removed right up to the cluster. There should always be 1,5m of healthy,
functioning leaves on the plant.
Some varieties of tomatoes may produce a large number of flowers per truss. It is important to
prune small fruit to maintain size and quality of the remaining tomatoes. In truss tomatoes such
as Ikram, normally fruit are pruned to 6 tomatoes per truss.

Pollination
Bee activity in tunnels is restricted so mechanical pollination is required. This
can easily be done twice a day by tapping the overhead wire along its length. It’s important not
to try and pollinate too early in the morning as pollination does not readily occur below 20° C.

Picking and Post Harvest Handling

Tomatoes should be picked when the bottom tip of the fruit have turned orange-pink. The fruit
will then turn light red in 2-3 days. In summer, picking will be 2 or 3 times a week but only once
a week in winter. Picking should be done in the cool of the day and the tomatoes then stored at
cool temperatures. Temperatures below 7oC can result in poor fruit quality with a short shelf
life.

Tunnel Tomato | Page 92

 Tunnel Tomatoes Spray Guide

Stage Nursery Transplanting Vegetative First Flowers First Fruits Fruiting

Days: 0-35 28-36 30-60 60-65 65-70 70-125

Pest Problems

Nematodes Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil Drench / Solvigo

Cutworms Karate Zeon

Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo / Curacron

Fruitworm & Caterpillars

Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon / Proclaim

Aphids & Whitefly

Actara Soil Drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Polo

Disease Problems
Damping off Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Complex Bion / Copper Oxychloride

Early Blight Copper Oxychloride / Bravo / Amistar Top

Late Blight Folio Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold

Leaf spots; Powdery Amistar Top

Mildew
Virus Complex Actara Soil Drench / Dip

Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses Fusllade Forte

Post-emergence: grasses Codal Gold

Tunnel Tomato | Page 93

& broadleaf
 Water Melon
Production & Spray Guide

Watermelon | Page 94
 Watermelons Production Guide
“Integrated Crop Solution

Introduction
Watermelons are mainly grown at outdoors. To supply an early market the use of low plastic
tunnels can advance the culture by creating a suitable microclimate and raising the soil
temperature.

Soil
Well-drained soils with good aeration and moisture retention are preferred. A timely addition of
organic material, well decomposed, can help in obtaining the right soil structure. A slight acid to
nuetral pH (6.5-7.0) in the soil, provides best growing conditions. Work the soil deeply to create
optimal conditions for root development.

Fertilizers
Before planting apply approx. 50t/ha of organic material e.g. farm manure. When (according to a
recent soil analysis) the soil has a good balance of available nutrients watermelons need approx:
- before planting 60 kg/ha N 130 kg/ha P2O5 200 kg/ha K2O
- after planting 100 kg/ha N 0 kg/ha P2O5 150 kg/ha K2O
total 160 kg/ha N 130 kg/ha P2O5 350 kg/ha K2O
If, during the culture, it becomes apparent that one of the elements is de cient, apply top
dressing. Also if necessary apply approx. 40 kg/ha MgO.

Sowing
Next to direct sowing, consideration should be given to the use of transplants. Sowing can be
done in pressed peat blocks or in tray cells. Size of block should be 5x5 cm. Water the planting
medium thoroughly and allow to drain for 4-6 hours before sowing. After sowing the optimal air
temperature should be at least 25 C, although outdoors this is dif cult to regulate.
Transplanting can take place 3-4 weeks late when the young plant has 3-4 true leaves. Harden-off
the plants before planting. This can be done by lowering the greenhouse temperature, reducing
irrigation, or moving the plants outside to increase their exposure to eld conditions. When sown
directly make sure that the soil temperature is at least 20 C.

Plant Spacing
Plant spacing in the eld will vary depending upon location, cultural practices and production
equipment used.
Rows are 2.0-2.5 m apart with 1.0-1.2 plants per running meter (5000 pl/ha), Placing windbreaks to
protect the crop proves bene cial. Fruit-setting is improved by placing beehives in the eld
(3-4) beehives per ha).

Watermelon | Page 95
Irrigation
Irrigate as necessary by means of sprinkler, a drip or furrow system. After transplanting irrigate
immediately to allow the young plant to develop their roots. It is advisable not to irrigate from the
time of sowing or planting until the rst fruit setting. This will stimulate the roots to penetrate deeply
into the moisture level of the soil, irrigate well after fruit setting and during further development.
Avoid irrigation immediately before harvesting, as this will affect the quality of the fruits.

Harvest
Harvest the watermelons just before they reach maturity. They will riper suf ciently during transport.
To maintain a good quality watermelon, harvest early in the morning to avoid the eld heat. If
watermelons are stored under controlled temperature conditions do not let the temperature drop
below 10OC to avoid chilling injury.

Watermelon | Page 96
Watermelon Crop Programme

Page not readable to Edit.

Can you send a clear one

Watermelons | Page 97
The Vegetable Table
A Planting Guide
 We are available at the following places
HARARE
PHYSICAL ADDRESS
No. 1 Shamwari Road 318 Hillside Road 136 Robert Mugabe Road
Stapleford, Harare Msasa, Harare Harare
Tel: +263-4-333262 Zimbabwe Tel: +263-4-790395/6
335279, 307619 Tel: +263-4-480501/2
Email: [email protected]
POSTAL ADDRESS Web: www.primeseed.co.zw
P.O. Box BW 1798
Borrowdale, Harare

BULAWAYO MUTARE
Selous Building 11 Jameson Road
Jason Moyo & 10th Avenue Mutare
Bulawayo
Tel: 0777 020 639