Chapter Contents Page No.

1 Introduction to Pattern Cutting 7

2 Skirts 24

3 Fullness 40

4 Trousers 52

5 Bodice 74

6 Sleeves 102

7 Necklines 130

8 Front Openings 138

9 Collars 148

10 Shirt Details 170

11 Hoods 186

12 Jumpsuit 194

13 Contouring 208

14 Tailoring 218

15 Pockets 234

16 Coats 252

17 Jersey Garments 264

18 Grading 272

19 Specification Templates 282

20 Fabrics 288
Introduction

A Technical Foundation is a women’s wear pattern-cutting guide for all fashion designers. From
aspiring students, to a fashion design lecturer’s reference material, and designers alike. It
provides detailed construction information for garment blocks that are used within fashion
design.

To create collections, whether model size for catwalk shows and photo shoots, or an
individual’s size, garment blocks are always used and adapted into the chosen design. A
Technical Foundation takes you through the creation of these blocks, which can then be used
and adapted repeatedly. It is a foundation of pattern cutting as it shows you how to create the
blocks, not individual garment designs.

A Technical Foundation is divided into twenty chapters of garment blocks, components and
finishing used in garment construction. Each chapter has detailed information and clear
technical pictures showing how to construct the different garment blocks and take them to
plans and patterns.

The garment construction chapters provide a range of different blocks to be used to construct
the specific garment – for a skirt there is a straight skirt, full skirt, circle skirt and pencil skirt.
Each garment section covers a multitude of garment blocks, which makes adapting different
blocks into individual designs that much easier as A Technical Foundation covers a choice of
blocks for each garment to work from. The garment component chapters show in detail how to
construct different garment components, from adding fullness into clothing - the four
varieties of pleats, godets and gathers. Different ways to finish the waistline and neckline,
sleeve shapes, hoods, collars, plackets, cuffs to front openings and different styles of pockets.

The chapters have been designed in an order of simplicity at the beginning, and the technical
aspect of pattern cutting getting more complex throughout the book. Ranging from skirt and
trouser blocks through to tailoring, contouring and jersey wear blocks. With each garment and
component in different chapters A Technical Foundation has been designed in a way for the
designers to evolve through the book reaching a level of understanding and practice, to then
have the technical skills to design their own collections.

The measurements quoted for all pattern making are a UK size 10. (Approximately a EU 34 and
a US size 6). The measurements have been decided from an analysis of retailers and their sizing
charts across the globe. There is no definitive sizing chart, many retailers adjusting their sizing
to suit the age group of their customers. There is a column on the sizing chart for the
designers to write their chosen measurements. All construction measurements quoted
throughout the book also have the formula to obtain such measurement, which enables
changing the size of the blocks easier for the designer.
2. SKIRTS
The skirt block is the easiest block to create as it takes the least amount of measurements to
create. The two key measurements to create a skirt block are the waist and hipline measure-
ments. Additionally, the length measurement, where a skirt block is made to the knee line.

Darts are created in a skirt block to reduce the hipline measurement to fit the waist. Size 10
has a 67cm waistline and a 90cm hipline, the difference being 23cm. The block has shaping at
the side seam and through front and back darts. The waist hip difference is best distributed
evenly through the darts and side seam. Skirt block construction shows 3cm back dart, 2.5cm
front dart and 3cm side seams = 11.5cm x 2 = 23cm.

For made to measure calculate the difference between waist and hip and distribute ¼ to each
dart and side. If the difference is minimal then a front dart is not always used. The smallest
dart would be 1.5cm, less than this it is easier and nicer to have more shaping at the side seam,
if the waist hip difference is small.Skirts can be made with different waist finishes and heights
– from high waist to low waist. Just remember the skirt needs to stay up so it is best not to go
too low from the natural waistline. 5-6cm being the maximum to prevent the skirt from falling
down.

Skirt widths range from a pencil tight skirt to a full circle, and any width in-between. When a
skirt is made full at the hem the darts can be manipulated into the fullness and therefore not
seen.

Skirt Lengths

Micro
Mini Mini Kneeline Mid Calf Ankle

Hipline Hipline Hipline Hipline Hipline

Kneeline Kneeline
A Line Skirt

A-LINE SKIRT BLOCK

Close the dart by pivoting from the

KL

C C
B F

HL HL

KL KL
Box Pleats and Inverted Box Pleats

Box pleats fold out or fold under to the shape of three sides of a box. If the ‘sides’ are folded
inwards this makes an inverted box pleat, where the central part of the pleat is underneath.
If the ‘sides’ are folded outwards this makes a box pleat. Box pleats stand out from the
garment.

Construction

The two sides of the box pleat must equal the central part of the pleat. If the side is 4cm, the
central part of the pleat is 8cm. Adding in a total of 16cm into the pattern piece.

Front Design View

Box Pleat Inverted Box Pleat

1. Sew fly front to outside (right side) of fabric on the right leg side. From top edge
to notch. ** Fly front is stitched to the side of the leg you want to see the
topstiching on. For women the right leg has the stitching and fly front behind.
However women can wear trousers “men’s way”.
Sew one side of the zipper to left leg to notch.
2. Sew centre front seam from notch down to the inside leg seam, stopping 3cm
before.
3. Sew other side of zipper to fly front ONLY. NOT to front leg.
4. Sew fly back to left leg side (the side without the fly front)
5. Topstitch fly front to right side front. Women’s way.

Fly back sewn to

The bust dart can be moved according to the design. See diagram for commonly used dart
positions. For fitted garments the bust dart always should be used. The point of the bust
dart cannot be moved, only the outside edge. If moved, it will not give the accurate body
shaping over the bust.
Neckline Shapes