EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Provence
& the Côte d’Azur
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Provence
& the Côte d’Azur

Main Contributor Roger Williams

 Project Editor Jane Simmonds
Art Editor Jane Ewart
Senior Editor Fay Franklin
Introducing
Editors Tom Fraser, Elaine Harries, Fiona Provence
Morgan
Designers Claire Edwards, Pippa Hurst,
Malcolm Parchment
Discovering Provence 10
Contributors
John Flower, Jim Keeble, Martin Walters Putting Provence on the
Photographers
Map 16
Max Alexander, John Heseltine, Kim Sayer,
Alan Williams A Portrait of Provence 18

Illustrators Provence Through the

Stephen Conlin, Richard Draper, Steve Year 36
Gyapay, Chris D Orr Illustration,
John Woodcock
The History of Provence
Boats lined up at the Port of Nice, located in
Printed and bound in China the old town in Nice (see pp84–9) 40
First published in the UK in 1995
by Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Reprinted with revisions

1995, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001,
2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010,
2012, 2014, 2016, 2018
Copyright 1995, 2018
© Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company

All rights reserved. No part of this

publication may be reproduced, stored
in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording
or otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from
the British Library.
ISBN 978-0-2413-0596-6

Floors are referred to throughout Lavender fields surrounding the Abbaye de Sénanque (see pp168–9)
in accordance with French usage;
ie the “first floor” is the floor
above ground level. The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@[Link].

Title page Hilltop village of Gordes, Vaucluse Front cover main image Blooming lavender field and Borie stone shed, Provence
Back cover image The beautiful old town of Gordes, Provence
 Contents
Provence Area Travellers’ Survival Guide
by Area Needs

Provence at a Glance 62 Where to Stay 194 Practical Information

236
The Riviera and the Alpes Where to Eat and
Maritimes 64 Drink 202 Travel Information 244

The Var and the Iles Shops and Markets 220 General Index 254
d’Hyères 104
Entertainment 224 Phrase Book 270
Bouches-du-Rhône and
Nîmes 130 Specialist Holidays and
Outdoor Activities 230
Vaucluse 158

Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
178

A souvenir store in the picturesque Les

Baux-de-Provence (see pp146–7)

Palais des Papes in Avignon

(see pp48–9)
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide will help you get the most from and detailed illustrations. Suggestions for
your stay in Provence. It provides both expert food, drink, accommodation, shopping and
recommendations and detailed practical entertainment are in Travellers’ Needs, and
information. Introducing Provence maps the the Survival Guide has tips on everything
region and sets it in its historical and cultural from the French telephone system to
context. Provence Area by Area describes the getting to Provence and travelling around
important sights, with maps, photographs the region.

Provence Area by Area THE RIVIERA AND

THE ALPES MARITIMES
PROVENCE AREA BY AREA  65

1 Introduction
The landscape, history and
character of each region
In this guide, Provence has The French Riviera is, without doubt, the most celebrated
is described here,
been divided into five separate seaside in Europe. Just about everybody who has been
anybody for the past 100 years has succumbed to its
glittering allure. This is the holiday playground of
showing how the area
regions, each of which has its kings and courtesans, movie stars and millionaires,

has developed over the

where the seriously rich never stand out in the crowd.

own chapter. A map of these

There is a continual complaint that the scenery of its shores and the rich
Riviera is not what it used to be, that the environment of hill villages like St-Paul
Cannes Film Festival is mere hype, that de Vence. This village has echoed to the
centuries and what it has
regions can be found inside the
grand old Monte-Carlo has lost all sense of voices of such luminaries as Bonnard and

to offer the visitor today.

taste and that Nice isn’t worth the trouble Modigliani, F Scott Fitzgerald and Greta
of finding a parking space. But look at the Garbo. Today, its galleries still spill canvases

front cover of the book. The most

boats in Antibes harbour, glimpse a villa on to its medieval lanes.
or two on Cap Martin, or observe the The Alpes Maritimes, which incorporates
baubles on the guests at the Hôtel de Paris the principality of Monaco, is renowned

interesting places to visit in each

in Monte-Carlo. Money and class still rule. for its temperate winter climate. The
The Riviera is not just a millionaire’s abundance of flowers here attracted the
watering hole: a diversity of talent has perfume industry and the English – who

region have been numbered and

visited, seeking patrons and taking advan- created some of the finest gardens on the
tage of the luminous Mediterranean light. coast. Inland, the mountainous areas of
This coast is irrevocably linked with the life Provence offer a range of skiing activities

plotted on a Regional Map.

and works of Matisse and Picasso, Chagall,
Cocteau and Renoir. It lent them the
in superb mountain scenery, and a chance
to try traditional Alpine food. A locator map shows the
region in relation to the whole
of Provence.
Each area of Provence can
be quickly identified by its
colour coding.

66  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  67

Exploring the Riviera and the Alpes Maritimes

The rocky heights of the pre-Alps lie in tiers, running
east to west and tumbling down to the Riviera’s
dramatic, Corniche-hemmed coast. On bluffs and
pinnacles, towns and villages keep a watchful eye on

2
the distant blue sea. Towards the Italian border, the
Alpine ridges run from north to south, cut by torrents
and gorges which provide snowy winter slopes for
skiers. Much of the higher ground is occupied by the
Saint-Étienne-
de-Tinée Regional Map
This gives an illustrated
Auron
Parc National du Mercantour (see p101), home of the
Isola 2000 View from Roquebrune towards Nice
ibex and the chamoix. Its jewel is the prehistoric Entraunes Isola
Vallée des Merveilles, less than two hours from the
V ar

LE
contrasting bustle of the Riviera. PA
RC
overview of the whole region.
i

r
e

N AT
Réf

IONA
L DU
Getting Around MERCANT

All the sights are numbered

Valberg OUR
Beuil
Vallé eilles
Merv

The A8 from Italy runs in-land, Guillaumes TENDE

parallel to the coast. Between
e de

Saint-Sauveur- Saint-Martin-
G O R GE S DU

St-Dalmas
this highway and the sea, from sur-Tinée Vésubie
s

Nice to Menton, are three

corniches. The Grande
and there are also useful tips
a

Roquebillière
Roy

Corniche follows the Roman Pointe de

Tinee

Trois-Communes
road, Julia Augusta, via La

on getting around by car

l'Authion SAORGE
C IAN S

IE

Turbie. The Moyenne Corniche

SUB

passes through Eze, and the PUGET- FORÊT

INI
VÉ

DE TUR
THÉNIERS Breil-sur-Roya
Corniche Inférieure visits all Lantosque
Touët-

and public transport.

coastal resorts. The inland
LA

Digne-les- sur-Var Villars-

Bains sur-Var Peïra-Cava
roads are narrow and winding, St-Jean-
DE

so allow more time for your la-Rivière

Ventimiglia
ÉE

journey. Grasse and Cannes are LUCÉRAM

LL

Roquesteron SOSPEL
linked by a regular bus service,
VA

Plan-du-Var
and bikes can be hired at some
railway stations. Other bus links E st e r o n Escarène
Expensive yachts in the
are also good. The largest colourful harbour at Antibes PEILLE San
Ste- Remo
airport in the region and Mont Cheiron Agnes
second busiest in France, is Sisteron GORBIO
at Nice, west of the city. Le Logis- PEILLON MENTON
du-Pin
r

ROQUEBRUNE-
Lo u

Va

LA TURBIE CAP-MARTIN
p

BEAULIEU-
Sights at a Glance SUR-MER MONACO
EZE
GOURDON VENCE
1 Gorges du Cians o Villefranche-sur-Mer
St-Vallier- ST-PAUL NICE VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER
2 Puget-Théniers p Beaulieu-sur-Mer de-Thiey
DE VENCE CAGNES-
3 St-Cézaire-sur-Siagne a Eze SUR-MER ST-JEAN-
GRASSE VILLENEUVE- CAP-FERRAT
4 Gourdon s La Turbie Grottes de
St-Cézaire LOUBET
5 Grasse d Monaco pp94–8 Cros-de-Cagnes

Features and story boxes

ST-CÉZAIRE- BIOT
6 Mougins f Peillon SUR-SIAGNE
7 Cannes pp72–3 g Peille Key
8 Iles de Lérins pp74–5 h Lucéram MOUGINS Motorway
ANTIBES
9 Juan-les-Pins
0 Antibes
q Vallauris
j Vallée de la Vésubie
k Forêt de Turini
l Parc National du
VALLAURIS
Golfe- JUAN-LES-PINS
Major road
Secondary road highlight special or unique aspects
of a particular sight.
w Biot Mercantour
CANNES Juan Minor road
Cap d'Antibes
e Villeneuve-Loubet
Scenic route
z Tende Draguignan
r Vence x Saorge La Main railway
Napoule
ILES DE LÉRINS
t St-Paul de Vence c Sospel Minor railway
y Cagnes-sur-Mer v Gorbio 0 kilometres 10 International border
u Nice pp84–5 b Roquebrune-Cap-Martin Regional border The sunshine and relaxing atmosphere
0 miles 10
i St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat n Menton of a café in Nice

For additional map symbols see back flap

76  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  77

9 Juan-les-Pins
Road map E4. * 76,770. £ @
Pablo Picasso (1881–1973)
n Palais des Congres, 60 chemin
Picasso, the giant of 20th-century art, spent most of his later life in Provence, inspired by its
des Sables (04 22 10 60 01).
∑ [Link] luminous light and brilliant colours. He came first to Juan-les-Pins in 1920, and returned to
Antibes in 1946 with Françoise Gilot. He was given a studio in the seafront Grimaldi palace,
To the east of Cannes is the where, after wartime Paris, his work became infused with Mediterranean light and joyful
hammerhead peninsula of Cap
images. No other artist has succeeded with so many art forms, and the Antibes collection
d’Antibes, a promontory of pines
and coves where millionaires’ is a taste of his versatility. He died at Mougins, aged 92.

3
mansions grow. Just next door

Detailed information is one of the finest beaches in

the area tucked in the west side
of the cape in Golfe­Juan, where
Napoleon came ashore from Elba Spectacular pleasure yachts in Antibes harbour

on each sight in 1815. This is a 20th­century

resort, promoted by American
railroad heir Frank Jay Gould,
cours Masséna. The town’s high
points include the 12th­century
q Vallauris
Road map E3. * 31,000. @ n 67

All the important towns

who attracted high society towers of the church and Grimaldi ave George Clemenceau (04 93 63 82 58)
in the 1920s and 1930s when castle on the site of Antipolis. The & Golfe­Juan
­­Juan Vieux Port (04 93 63 73 12).
writers F Scott Fitzgerald and Cathédrale Notre-Dame, which ( Mon–Sat. ∑ [Link]
Ernest Hemingway stayed here. took over the town’s watchtower

and other places to visit are Today, in the high season, it is

filled with a young crowd. The
area at the junctions of boule­
vards Baudoin and Wilson is
as a belfry, has a wooden crucifix
from 1447, a 16th­century Christ
and a fine Louis Bréa altarpiece
depicting the Virgin Mary.
In summer, the wares of potters
spill on to the avenue of
this pottery capital. Picasso
revitalized this industry, the

described individually. They

Violin and Sheet of Music (1912),
filled with bars. Action centres The Château Grimaldi nearby history of which is traced in now in Paris, is a Cubist collage
round the 1988 casino, the houses the Musée Picasso, the Musée de la Ceramique, from the period when Picasso
Palais des Congrés, and Penedé which displays over 50 drawings, together with a collection of experimented with different forms.

are listed in order, following

Gould pine grove, which gives paintings, and ceramics created contemporary pieces. In the
shelter to the International Jazz by the artist when he used the square is Picasso’s sculpture Les Demoiselles d’Avignon (1907),
à Juan Festival (see p37) in July. museum as a studio during 1946. L’Homme au Mouton (1943). now in New York, was the first
The exceptional modern art La Guerre et la Paix (1952) is in the Cubist painting. Its bold style

the numbering on the

collection includes works by Musée National Picasso, housed shocked the art world of the day.
Ernst, Modigliani, Léger, Miró in the Romanesque chapel
and Nicolas de Staël in the last of the Château de Vallauris.
two years of his life.

Regional Map. Within each Further south, the Musée

d’Histoire et d’Archéologie in the
fortified Bastion St­André houses
Greek and Etruscan finds, including
E Musée de la Ceramique
Pl de la Libération. Tel 04 93 64 71 83.
Open Wed–Mon (Jul–Aug: daily).
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov,

town or city, there is A glimpse of nightlife in one of the vibrant

a 3rd­century BC inscription to the
spirit of Septentrion, a boy who
danced at the Antipolis theatre.
25 Dec. &
E Musée National Picasso
Pl de la Libération. Tel 04 93 64 71 83.

detailed information on
streets of Juan-les-Pins Marineland leisure park, north Open Wed–Mon (Jul–Aug: daily).
of Antibes, includes a shark
shark­filled Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov,
aquarium and other attractions 25 Dec. & = La Joie de Vivre (1946), is
0 Antibes such as polar bears and whales. one of Picasso’s main works

important buildings and

from the Antibes period,
Road map E3. * 76,770 (Commune
of Antibes). £ @ g n 42 ave O Marineland using favourite mytho­
Robert Soleau (04 22 10 60 10). 306 ave Mozart. Tel 0892 426 226. logical themes. He is the
( Mon–Sun (daily Jul & Aug). Open Feb–Dec: daily. & 7 = 0 bearded centaur playing

other major sights. ∑ [Link] ∑ [Link] the flute, and Françoise

E Musée Picasso
Gilot is the Maenad who
dances while two fauns
Originally the ancient Greek Château Grimaldi, Place Mariejol.
leap about and a satyr
trading post of Antipolis, Antibes Tel 04 93 95 85 98. Open Tue–Sun.
plays a panpipe.
became heavily fortified over the Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov, 25 Dec.
centuries, notably by Vauban in &78^=
The Goat (1946), also in
the 17th century, who built the E Musée d’Histoire et Antibes, is one of his best­ L’Homme au Mouton (1943)
main port and Fort Carré, where d’Archéologie known images. In 1950 he was sculpted in an afternoon.
Napoleon was allegedly Bastion St­André. Tel 04 93 95 85 98. made his famous goat It stands in the main square
temporarily imprisoned. Open Feb–Oct: Tue–Sun; Nov–Jan: sculpture using a wicker of Vallauris, also home of
The old town is pleasant, with Tue–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Tourists inspect merchandise in Vallauris, basket as the ribcage. La Guerre et la Paix (1952).
a picturesque market place in 1 Nov, 25 Dec. & 7 = the pottery capital of Provence
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7

4 Major Towns
An introduction covers the history,
character and geography of the town.
The main sights are described individually A Visitors’ Checklist gives contact
and plotted on a Town Map. points for tourist and transport
information, plus details of market
days and local festival dates.
72  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  73

7 Cannes 15 giant murals inspired by the

Seventh Art, which can be found
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Lord Brougham, British Lord Chancellor, put Cannes on the map at various locations across town. Practical Information
in 1834 when he stopped there on his way to Nice. He was The main hotels in Cannes Road map E4. * 74,600. n 1
so entranced by the climate of what was then a tiny fishing have their own beaches with blvd de la Croisette (04 92 99 84 22).
bars and restaurants, where ( Tue–Sun. _ Film Festival (May).
village that he built a villa and started a trend for upper-class ∑ [Link]
prices match their standing.
English visitors. Today, Cannes may not attract blue blood but Celebrities are most likely to Transport
it has become a town of festivals, the resort of the rich and be seen at the Carlton, Majestic £ rue Jean-Jaurès.
famous. It is busy all year round, its image reinforced by the and Martinez. There is a cover @ pl de l’Hôtel de Ville.
Film Festival (see p36). With its casinos, fairs, beach, boat and charge to enter most beaches
street life, there is plenty to do, even though Cannes lacks the in Cannes, where imported sand
covers the natural pebbles, and E Musée de la Castre
great museums and monuments of less glamorous resorts.
sun-loungers cost extra. Just Château de la Castre, Le Suquet.
next to the festival building Tel 04 93 38 55 26. Open Tue–Sun
and cheese. This leads you to the there is also a free public beach. (Jul–Aug: daily). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
Marché Forville. Fresh regional InterContinental Carlton, the height of luxury at Cannes 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec. & 8 by appt.
produce turns up here every P Palais des Festivals et The old Cannes castle, erected
day except Monday. The small des Congrès P InterContinental Carlton is studded with tiny balconies, by the Lérins monks in the
streets meander up from the
marché to the old Roman town
of Canoïs Castrum. This area
1 blvd de la Croisette. Tel 04 92
99 84 00. n 04 92 99 84 22.
∑ [Link]
58 la Croisette. Tel 04 93 06 40 06.
∑ [Link] See Where
to Stay p198.
and the window frames,
cornices and attic pediments
are decorated with stucco. The
11th and 12th centuries,
houses this museum. Set
up in 1877, it contains some
The town map shows all main
was named after the reeds that
grew by the seashore, and is
now known as Le Suquet. The
Built in 1982, this unmistakably
modern building stands beside
the Vieux Port at the west end
This ultimate symbol of comfort
and grace contains 343 rooms and
39 suites, and has its own private
hotel’s twin black cupolas are
said to be modelled on the
breasts of the notorious Belle
fine archaeological and
ethnographical collections
from all over the world,
through roads as well as minor
streets of interest to visitors. All
Provençal Gothic church in the of the promenade. It is the chief sandy beach. It was designed and Otéro, a Spanish courtesan and ranging from South Sea Island
centre of the old town, Notre- venue for the Palmes d’Or and built in 1911 by the architect, dancer who captivated Dalmas. costumes to Asian art and
Dame de l’Espérance, was other internationally recognised Charles Dalmas. The huge The Carlton was so revered African masks. Also housed in
completed in 1648. awards sufficiently prestigious for Rococo-style dining room, where that in World War II, a New the Cistercian St-Anne chapel

Relaxing deck chairs on the seafront,

Hôtel Martinez
The Cannes Film Festival has

1946. The main venue is the

the film business to take them
been held here every May since seriously, and much business
goes on, so that the festival is not
the colonnades rise to an ornate
ceiling with finely wrought
cornices, is unchanged. The
York Times journalist asked
a commanding officer to
protect what he considered
is a collection of superb
musical instruments. The
11th-century Tour de la Castre
the sights are plotted, along with
Exploring Cannes
The heart of the city is built
Palais des Festivals,
but there are cinemas
all over town, some
all hype and publicity.
Some 78,000 official
tickets are distributed
hotel’s wedding-cake exterior to be the world’s finest hotel. is worth climbing for the view.
the bus and train stations, parking,
tourist offices and churches.
around the Bay of Cannes and of which are open to to professionals only. Cannes UE I S O L A B E L L SUPER-
EN
the palm-fringed seafront boule- the public, and film Apart from its use for AV CANNES
1 Palais des Festivals et
vard de la Croisette. Here there screening starts as the great Film Festival, des Congrès BO TFLEU
RY
are luxury boutiques and hotels early as 8:30am. The the building also 2 InterContinental Carlton
U MON
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ARD
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SBOUD

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D. STRA EVAR

and fine views of La Napoule beach has been a focus houses a casino and
VA
RU

3 Musée de la Castre
O
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BOUL
D

Bay and the Esterel heights. The for paparazzi since a nightclub, and is E
M R . LO UI S NO U V E A
U
DE
SIM

D
eastern end of the bay curves 1953, when Brigitte a regular conference E
ON

RU
LA

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LSAC
out to Pointe de la Croisette, Bardot’s beautiful Famous handprint venue. In the nearby L E VA
RD D
’A
LV E R T
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R EP UB

GRASSE
BOU COU
where the medieval Fort de pout put her on the of Faye Dunaway allée des Stars, hand- FER
REE Gare Routière
PLACE VOIE
la Croix once stood. The town’s world’s front pages. prints of such famous
LIQUE

DU 18 JUN UR E S
Gare SNCF U E J E A N J A
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two gaming houses, Casino Les The city’s connection to celebrities as American actress LA
M HE D’ANTIBES
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Forville NT ENA
and rue Félix Faure are the allées ET PA Esplanade DE
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de la Liberté. Shaded by plane DU

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trees and surveyed by a statue RU
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Palais des Festivals
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Routière
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Tour de Plag
la Castre et des Congrès e de InterContinental
of Lord Brougham, this open
UAR

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Musée de iset te Carlton Espace

RU

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space is ideal both for boules

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la Castre Miramar
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L
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and the colourful morning

IERR

LE Baie de
M
EN Port
E

Cannes
flower market. It provides a fine CEA U SQUARE
J. HIBERT ILES DE
LÉRINS 0 metres
view of the harbour, which is BD. JEAN-HIBERT Gare QUAI
250
Maritime LAUB
filled with pleasure craft and EUF
0 yards 250
fishing boats. Behind the allées
is the rue Meynadier, where you Plages du
Midi
can buy delicious pasta, bread Cannes Old Town, known locally as Le Suquet, overlooking the harbour Key to Symbols see back flap

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  85

u Street-by-Street: Nice Chapelle de la Miséricorde

Designed in 1740 by Guarino
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Guarinone, this Baroque
A dense network of pedestrian alleys, narrow buildings masterpiece has a fine Rococo
Practical Information
and pastel, Italianate façades make up Vieux Nice or Road map F3. * 347,800.
interior. The Nice altarpieces are by
n 5 prom des Anglais (08 92 70
the Old Town. Its streets contain many fine 17th- Louis Bréa and Jean Miralhet.
74 07). ( Tue–Sun. _ Carnival
century Italianate churches, among them St-François- (Feb), Nice Jazz Festival (July).

5
de-Paule, behind the Opéra, and l’Eglise du Jésus in ∑ [Link]

Street-by-Street Map the rue Droite. Most of the seafront, at quai des Etats-
Unis, is taken up by the Ponchettes, a double row of
low houses with flat roofs, a fashionable walk before
Transport
k 7 km (4.5 miles) SW.
£ av Thiers. @ 5 blvd Jean
Jaurès. g quai du Commerce.

Towns or districts of
the promenade des Anglais was built. To the east of RUE
RUE

DE
LA
this lies the Colline du Château, occupied in the 4th . Cathédrale Ste-Réparate LOG
RUE DU

IE E
CEN

Built in 1650 by the Nice

RUE

century by Greeks who kept

ER

architect J-A Guiberto

H

special interest to visitors

fishing nets on the quay.
TRAL
C

DRO

in Baroque style, this

U
BO

PONT VI

RUE

has a fine dome of TTI

SSE
LA

ITE

Palais de Justice glazed tiles and an RO

RUE
ST-
E

This awesome building 18th-century tower.

D

are shown in detailed 3-D,

E

was inaugurated on 17
JOS
EUX
RU

October 1892, replacing RUE

EPH

the smaller quarters F G

AL PLACE
RUE

LAO ROSSETT
used before Nice
RUE COL

RUE

with photographs of the

E DU U
became part of France. RU ATEA
E

BEN
RUE STE
CH

On the same site was a CH

DRO
OIT

13th-century church
RUE DU MAR

ONN

and convent.
ITE
-REPARA

most important sights.

-BU

T
A D ’I S T R

NA
NIC

N C I E N S E N AT

A LO
TE

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O

RUE D

This gives a bird’s-eye view

. Palais Lascaris
IA

E 18th-century statues of Mars

PREFECTUR
RUE ST

RUE DE LA and Venus flank the staircase.

RUE JUL

L’A

The trompe l’oeil ceiling is by

RUE DE

of towns or districts of
E
PLAC
GAETA

Genoese artists.
DU IE
IS LLER
PA L A BARI
RUE
ES-G
N
RUE

special interest.
I L LY

E
PLAC E
RAO

P I E R RE R
GAUT
I PLACE S
UL

C H A R ILXE
I FEL
RUE L

MAR
DRE
XAN
ALE
RUE
GASS
BOS

E YA
SAL
. Cours Saleya
IN

RS NIS
IO

The site of an enticing vegetable

vege COU S-U
S E TAT
and flower market, it is also a lively I DE
area at night. E QUA
PAUL Tourist Train
DE
ST-F It passes the market, old
RUE

A suggested route for a walk town and castle gardens.

covers the most interesting Les Ponchettes

One of Nice’s most
unusual architectural
0 metres

0 yards 100
100

streets in the area.

features is the row of
low white buildings along
the sea-front once used
by fishermen, now a
Opera House mix of galleries and
Built in 1855, the ornate and sumptuous ethnic restaurants.
Key
Opéra de Nice has its entrance just off the
quai des Etats-Unis. Suggested route

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–201 and pp208–217
80  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Fondation Maeght La Partie de

Campagne (1954)
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Fernand Léger lends

For all the top sights, a Visitors’

Nestling amid the umbrella pines in the hills above St-Paul . Cour Giacometti Practical Information
his unique vision to the
de Vence, this small modern art museum is one of the world’s Slender bronze figures by 623 chemin Gardettes, St-Paul-
classic artistic scene of
finest. Aimé and Marguerite Maeght were Cannes art dealers Alberto Giacometti, such de-Vence. Tel 04 93 32 81 63.
a country outing.
as L’Homme Qui Marche I Open 10am–6pm daily (Jul–Sep:
who numbered the likes of Chagall, Matisse and Miró among
their clients and friends. Their private collection formed the
basis for the museum, which opened in 1964. Like St-Paul
(1960), inhabit their own
shady courtyard or
appear about the
to 7pm). Closed 24 & 31 Dec. &
- = Library. ∑ fondation-
[Link]
Checklist provides the practical
information you will need to
itself, the Maeght has been a magnet for celebrities: Duke grounds as if they
have a life of
Ellington, Samuel Beckett, André Malraux, Merce their own.
Cunningham and, of course, a galaxy of the artists
themselves have mingled at fundraising events. The
museum now receives over 200,000 visitors each year. plan your visit.
La Vie (1964)
Marc Chagall’s painting is
full of humanity: here is love,
parenthood, religion, society,
nature; all part of a swirling,
circus-like tableau of dancers
and musicians, acrobats
and clowns.

. Labyrinthe de Miró
Joan Miró’s l’Oiseau Lunaire (1968) is one
of the many statues in this multi-levelled
maze of trees, water and gargoyles.

Les Renforts (1963)

One of many works of art that greet arriving
visitors, Alexander Calder’s creation is a “stabile”
– a counterpart to his more familiar mobiles.
Oiseau dans le Feuillage (1961)
Georges Braque’s bird nestles
amongst “foliage” made of newsprint.
Braque was highly influential in the
creation of the Fondation, but died
before he could see the museum
finally opened to the public.
6 The Top Sights
These are given two or
more pages. Important
KEY

1 Cowled roofs allow indirect

Gallery
Guide
The permanent
buildings are dissected
to reveal their interiors;
light to filter into the galleries. The collection is
building was designed by Spanish comprised entirely
architect Josep Lluis Sert. of 20th-century art.
2 Les Poissons is a mosaic pool The only items on
designed by Georges Braque in 1963.
3 Chapelle St-Bernard was built
in memory of the Maeghts’ son, who
permanent view are the
large sculptures in the
grounds. The indoor galleries
display works from the
L’Eté (1917)
museums have colour-
coded floorplans to help
died in 1953, aged 11. Above the Pierre Bonnard settled in Provence
altarpiece, a 12th-century Christ, is collection in rotation but, for the last 22 years of his life, becoming
a stained-glass window by Braque. in summer, only temporary
temp Main entrance and a close friend of Aimé Maeght. Matisse
exhibitions are held. information called Bonnard “the greatest of us all”.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
you locate the most
interesting exhibits.
The gallery guide explains the layout of
the museum and gives details on the
arrangement and display of the collection.
IntroducIng
Provence

Discovering Provence 10–15

Putting Provence on
the Map 16–17
A Portrait of Provence 18–35
Provence Through the Year 36–39
The History of Provence 40–59
10  INTRODUCING PROveNCe

Discovering Provence
The following tours have been designed sites along the banks of the River Rhône from
to include as many of Provence’s highlights Orange to the Camargue, including some of
as possible, with a minimum amount of France’s best-preserved Roman and medieval
travelling. First come a pair of two-day tours monuments. The third, designed specifically
of the region’s most popular cities, Nice and for drivers, covers many of the most iconic
Avignon; either can be followed individually landscapes and villages of Provence. All have
or as part of a week-long tour. These are extra suggestions for extending trips to 10
followed by three seven-day tours of the days. Pick one or mix and match, but before
region. The first covers the Côte d’Azur, with setting out, be sure to check the listing of
its beaches, dramatic scenery and exceptional events (pp36–9) and perhaps adjust a tour
art museums. The second takes in the major so as not to miss any of the fun.

Orange
Nîmes
Nice
Côte d’Azur
Main map inset Châteauneuf-
du-Pape

Pont du Gard Avignon

ô ne
Rh
Nice
Stylish umbrellas and sun loungers lined up Nîmes
along the shore at the promenade des Tarascon St-Rémy-
Anglais Beach Club. Beaucaire de-Provence

GARD
Les Baux-
A Week on the de-Provence
Côte d’Azur St-Gilles-
du-Gard Arles
•
Wander through the morning
market in Nice, and visit the
delightful Musée Matisse. Aigues-
•
Tour the spectacular Villa Mortes
Ephrussi de Rothchild at
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and
Rh
ône

watch the sun set over the

Riviera from Eze.
•
Marvel at the sea life
in Monaco’s Musée
Océanographique; see the
Roman “trophy” at La Turbie.
•
Delve into contemporary ALPES-MARITIMES Menton
Gorges La Turbie
art at St-Paul de Vence, du Loup
and visit Renoir’s home in Vence Monaco
Gourdon Eze
Cagnes-sur-Mer.
St-Paul Nice Villefranche-sur-Mer
Discover the joyful Picassos in de Vence
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
•

Grasse Cagnes-sur-Mer
Antibes, and relax on the beach
at fashionable Juan-les-Pins.
Mougins Antibes
•
Take in the glamour of
Cannes and the tranquillity Juan-les-Pins
Cannes 0 kilometres 15
of the Iles de Lérins.
Iles de Lérins 0 miles 15

Entrance to the port of Marseille, 1754, by Joseph Vernet

 DISCOVERING PROVENCE  11

Vaison-la-Romaine
Sitting on the river Ouvèze,
this attractive stone­
and­red­roof town has
fascinating Roman remains
including a theatre still used
for the town’s summer
festival, a hilltop Haute Ville
and some of Provence’s
most chic pavement cafés
for relaxing in after a
day of sightseeing.

Vaison-la-Romaine
Gigondas
Malaucène
Vacqueyras
A Week Along the Rhône
Le Barroux
Beaumes- •
Enjoy Marseille’s iconic •
Visit the places Van Gogh
de-Venise
bouillabaisse in the painted in St-Rémy;
scenic Vieux Port. enjoy breathtaking views
Carpentras from the citadel of
•
Test the acoustics in
Orange’s ancient theatre, Les Baux-de-Provence.
VA U C L U S E
and the wines at •
Explore the walled city of
Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Aigues-Mortes on the
L'Isle-sur- edge of the Camargue.
la-Sorgue Abbaye de Sénanque •
Tour the medieval Palais
Fontaine- Gordes des Papes in Avignon. •
Discover the ancient
de-Vaucluse Roussillon and medieval master­
•
Marvel at the Pont du
Ménerbes Lacoste Apt
Gard, and the Roman pieces of Arles, France’s
Cavaillon Bonnieux monuments in Nîmes. “Little Rome”.
Oppède-
le-Vieux
Lourmarin
Du La Tour
ran d'Aigues
ce
A Week in Classic
Abbaye de
Silvacane
Pertuis Provence
•
Take in the arty charms of
Aix, the former capital of
BOUCHES-
Provence and birthplace
DU-RHONE Montagne
Ste-Victoire of Paul Cézanne.
•
Tour through the beautiful
Aix-en- Provençal villages and land­
Provence scapes of the Petit Luberon.
•
Shop for antiques in L’Isle-
sur-la-Sorgue, and wonder
at the mysterious Fontaine-
de-Vaucluse.
•
Discover the vine­clad
landscapes and wines
Marseille
grown under the Dentelles
de Montmirail; seek out the
Roman relics of chic Vaison-
la-Romaine.
0 kilometres 20
•
Visit the striking village
0 miles 20
perché of Gordes; inhale the
Key lavender at the 12th­century
Abbaye de Sénanque; and
A Week Along the Rhône
stroll through Roussillon’s
A Week in Classic Provence dramatic ochre quarries.
A Week on the Côte d’Azur
12  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

Day 1
2 Days in Nice Morning Plunge straight into
Avignon’s glory days on a tour
Nice has a fascinating historic of the Palais des Papes, the
centre, a wealth of museums biggest medieval palace in the
and a stunning waterfront. world. Afterwards, visit the nearby
Cathédrale Notre-Dame-des-
•
Arriving Nice Airport is 7 km
Doms, with the tombs of two
(4.5 miles) from the city. Buses
popes and the hilltop gardens
link it with the centre.
of the Rocher des Doms.
•
Moving on The journey from
Nice to Avignon on a TGV Afternoon Discover the rich
train is just under 3 hours. Gothic art patronized by the
Blue lounge chairs lined up along papal court at the Musée du
the promenade in Nice Petit Palais, then walk along the
See pp84–9 for information famous Pont St-Bénézet bridge.
on sights in Nice. to the famed Hotel Négresco. Afterwards stroll the atmospheric
In the evening, enjoy a drink or medieval lanes of rue du Roi-
Day 1 dinner in the lively cours Saleya. René and rue des Teinturiers.
Morning Start with a stroll
through Nice’s bustling To extend your trip… Day 2
Italianate Old Town: don’t miss Take a scenic day trip on the Morning Visit the city’s two
the Cathédrale Ste-Réparate Train des Pignes (p185) outstanding art museums,
with its glazed tile dome and and visit Entrevaux (p191). the Musée Calvet and Musée
the art-filled Chapelle du la Angladon, then relax at a café
Miséricorde. Take in the heady in bustling place de l’Horloge.
colours and fragrances of the
market in the cours Saleya,
2 Days in Avignon Afternoon Take the bus over
then make your way up to the Rhône to Villeneuve-lès-
the summit of the Colline du A lively city on the Rhône Avignon (p134). Climb one of
Château gardens for the best river, Avignon is home to its towers (Fort St-André or
view over the Baie des Anges. the Palais des Papes and the Tour de Philippe le Bel) for
excellent museums. wonderful views over Avignon.
Afternoon Visit the elegant See the masterpiece of the
•
Arriving The Avignon and
district of Cimiez to discover the Avignon School of painting,
Nîmes airports are only
life and work of one-time Nice Enguerrand Quarton’s
operational in summer. For
resident Henri Matisse at the Coronation of the Virgin, in the
the rest of the year, Marseille
Musée Matisse. Stop by the Musée Pierre de Luxembourg,
has the nearest international
serene Monastery of Notre- then visit the monastery it was
airport (88 km/54 miles);
Dame, where the artist is buried, painted for: the vast Chartreuse
direct TGV trains run from
then see the Musée Chagall, du Val-de-Bénédiction.
the airport to Avignon in
filled with colourful paintings
only 54 minutes.
of biblical themes. To extend your trip…
Make a day trip to Nîmes
Day 2 (pp136–7) and the majestic
Morning Explore two different See pp170–72 for information on Pont du Gard (p135).
aspects of Nice: start in the 17th sights in Avignon.
century (when the city was part
of Italy) at the ornate Baroque
Palais Lascaris, with its prize
collection of antique musical
instruments. Then leap ahead
four centuries at the striking
Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art
Contemporain, set amid an
outdoor sculpture garden.

Afternoon Stroll along the

famous promenade des
Anglais and consider lunch and
a swim at one of the seaside
bathing establishments. Or pay
a visit to Nice’s history museum,
the Villa Masséna next door Dining alfresco on rue des Teinturiers alongside the river Sorgue, Avignon
 DISCOVERING PROVENCE  13

Croisette, with its world-famous

hotels and the Palais des
Festivals, and the old town, with
its bustling Marché Forville. The
market is a great place to pick
up a picnic for a trip to one
of the Iles de Lérins (pp74–8):
choose between peaceful,
monastic St-Honorat or larger
Ste-Marguerite, with its links
to the Man in the Iron Mask.

To extend your trip…

Visit the Roman ruins
of Fréjus (p129) 36 km
(22 miles) west of Cannes and
the chic resort of St-Tropez
The Jardin Botanique Exotique at 19th-century Villa Val Rahmeh, Menton (pp122–6); the following day
head to Hyères (p119) 51 km
A Week on the of the Grimaldis, Europe’s oldest (32 miles) from Cannes to
Côte d’Azur ruling family. Head up the slopes sail to the car-free island of
above Monaco to La Turbie Porquerolles (p118).
•
Duration 7 days – with (p93), famous for its ancient
suggestions for extending Trophée d’Auguste, erected in
it to a 10-day tour. honour of Augustus. Descend
•
Airport Arrive and to Menton (pp102–3) for a walk
depart from Nice Côte through its tropical gardens
d’Azur airport. and a look at the Musée Jean
Cocteau. In the evening, head
•
Transport Lignes d’Azur
back to Monaco and stop for a
buses go everywhere; trains
drink in Monte-Carlo’s (pp96–7)
serve coastal towns. Hire a
glamorous Café de Paris and
car in Cannes to head inland.
perhaps try your luck in Europe’s
most famous casino.

Day 1: Nice Day 4: St-Paul de Vence and Roman statuary at the Musée d’Art
Pick a day from the city itinerary Cagnes-sur-Mer Classique de Mougins
on p12. Contemporary art reigns at
charming St-Paul de Vence Day 7: Mougins, Grasse,
Day 2: St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, (p79), in the exquisite Fondation Gorges du Loup, Gourdon,
Villefranche-sur-Mer, Eze Maeght (pp80–81), in the town’s Vence
Take the tour of the Villa many galleries and the Colombe Start in Mougins (p70), famed
Ephrussi de Rothschild and its d’Or auberge. Next, aim for for its great restaurants. Admire
spectacular gardens (p90) at Cagnes-sur-Mer (p82), for the the works of former resident
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (p89), then eclectic Château Musée Grimaldi Picasso in the Musée de la
follow the beautiful path that and the moving Musée Renoir, Photographie and visit the
starts just east of the port of the Impressionist’s last home. captivating Musée d’Art
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Relax on the Classique. Discover how
free beach at Villefranche-sur- Day 5: Antibes and perfume is made in Grasse
Mer (p92); wander through the Juan-les-Pins (p70) at the Musée International
town’s skein of medieval lanes Wander through the streets de la Parfumerie, then drive the
and sit in one of its buzzing of old Antibes (p76), ogle the dramatic Gorges du Loup (p69),
waterfront cafés. Then head up billionaires’ yachts in the marina stopping off at the breathtaking
to Eze (p92), a stunning village and take in the excellent Musée village of Gourdon (p69) and
perché to watch the sun set Picasso housed in a waterfront the delightful town of Vence
over the Riviera. castle. Stroll past the glamorous (p78) before returning to Nice.
villas of Cap d’Antibes, and
Day 3: Monaco, La Turbie spend a lazy afternoon on the To extend your trip…
and Menton beach in Juan-les-Pins (p76). Go north from Grasse 64 km
Discover the astonishing (40 miles) to Castellane
sea creatures in the Musée Day 6 : Cannes and the (p190) to explore the even
Océanographique in Monaco Iles de Lérins more spectacular Gorges
(pp94–8), and visit its Palais Discover the two sides of du Verdon (pp188–9).
Princier, for a peek into the lives Cannes (pp72–3): the swanky
14  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

A Week Along Day 3: Avignon the mini-mountain chain of Les

the Rhône Pick a day from the city itinerary Alpilles (p145) and the citadel of
on p12. Les Baux-de-Provence (p146),
•
Duration 7 days – with once the medieval setting of
additional suggestions the troubadour Court of Love;
To extend your trip…
to extend it to 10 days. the views are wonderful.
Hire a car and take a day trip
•
Airports Arrive at and to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse
depart from Marseille (p169) 33 km (20 miles) east Day 6: St-Gilles-du-Gard
Provence Airport. of Avignon; the hill town and Aigues Mortes
of Gordes (p173), Abbaye Along with its iconic white
•
Transport This tour can be
de Sénanque (p168) and horses, black bulls and pink
made using a combination
Roussillon (p173) are nearby. flamingoes, the Camargue
of trains and buses, although
(pp140–43) has several
hiring a car would allow
fascinating historic sites. Begin
more flexibility.
Day 4: Pont du Gard, Nîmes, at St-Gilles-du-Gard (p143) and
Beaucaire and Tarascon the magnificent Romanesque
Cross the Rhône to visit façade of the Abbaye de
Day 1: Marseille antiquity’s most beautiful St-Gilles, then head south
A day is just enough to scratch aqueduct – the majestic Pont to explore the unique 13th-
the surface of Marseille (pp154– du Gard (p135), before moving century walled crusader town
6). Start in the picturesque Vieux on to the city it served, Nîmes of Aigues-Mortes (pp138–9).
Port, with its morning fish market (pp136–7). Don’t miss the
and the Abbaye de St-Victor. amphitheatre, Les Arènes, the Day 7: Arles
Enjoy the spectacular views from Maison Carrée – a well-preserved France’s “Little Rome”, Arles
Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, and Roman temple – and the (pp148–9) boasts both an
visit the Palais Longchamp, with Castellum, where the aqueduct’s ancient theatre and amphi-
its fine arts collection. Stroll the water was distributed. Head theatre, the Thermes de
Canebière before tucking into back to the Rhône, where the Constantin and the intriguing
bouillabaisse for dinner. medieval castles of Beaucaire Musée de l’Arles Antique. Also
(p143) (famous for its bullfights) visit the cloisters of the church
and Tarascon (p144) (known of St-Trophime, Les Alychamps
for its Tarasque and Souleïado cemetery and the Espace Van
fabrics) face each other across Gogh, with exhibits relating to
the river. the painter’s sojourn in Arles.

Day 5: St-Rémy-de-Provence To extend your trip…

and Les Baux-de-Provence Uncover the history of
St-Rémy-de-Provence (p144) the Carmargue in the
is one of Provence’s most Musée de la Camargue
attractive towns, and was (p143); spot birds at the
frequently painted by Van Parc Ornithologique du
Gogh. Take a walk out to the Pont-de-Gau (p142) and
Diners enjoying bouillabaisse at the Clinique St-Paul to see some visit the Romany pilgrimage
Miramar Restaurant, Marseille’s Vieux Port views painted by Van Gogh, church at lively Saintes-
and the nearby ruins of Greco- Maries-de-la-Mer (p142).
To extend your trip… Roman Glanum. Next, head into
Take a boat trip and swim
in Marseille’s dramatic Les
Calanques (p157). Visit the
wine town of Cassis (p157).

Day 2: Orange and

Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Take the train to Orange
(pp165–7) to visit its incom-
parable Roman Théâtre Antique,
scene of summer theatre and
dance festivals, and the well-
preserved Arc de Triomphe. In
the afternoon, head south to
Châteauneuf-du-Pape (p168)
for a tasting of the famous
wines before dinner. Roman sarcophagus or tombs showing boar hunters, Musée de l’Arles Antique, Arles
For practical information on travelling around Provence, see pp244–53
 DISCOVERING PROVENCE  15

A Week in Classic
Provence
•
Duration 7 days – or 10
with the additional trips.
•
Airports Arrive and depart
from Marseille Provence
Airport.
•
Transport Hiring a car is the
best option. Although much
of this itinerary is technically
possible by bus, infrequent
connections will make
getting around difficult.

Brantes and Mont Ventoux, north Luberon Mountains

Day 1: Aix-en-Provence
Today a cosmopolitan university Day 4: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, red wine. In chic Vaison-
city and venue of a famous music Fontaine-de-Vaucluse and la-Romaine (p162), visit the
festival, Aix (pp152–3) was once Carpentras boutiques of the Haute Ville.
the capital of Provence. Stroll Wander through pretty L’Isle-
through the historic centre, sur-la-Sorgue (p169), with its To extend your trip…
with its elegant 17th- and 18th- canals and weekend antiques Spend a day exploring Mont
century hôtels and fountains. market. Just upriver, visit the Ventoux (p164), 32 km
Don’t miss the Cathédrale source of the Sorgue at the (20 miles) from Vaison –
St-Sauveur, with its triptych of Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (p169), by car, bicycle or on foot.
The Burning Bush, the adjacent along with its paper mill and
Musée du Palais de l’Archevêché, Musée d’Histoire 1939–45.
with a unique collection of Continue on to Carpentras Day 6: Gordes, Abbaye de
secular Beauvais tapestries, (p168), which has a 14th-century Sénanque and Roussillon
and the luxurious 17th-century synagogue and a cathedral. Head back south through the
villa, the Pavillon de Vendôme. Dentelles (p163), pausing in
Day 5: The Dentelles de the old Huguenot village of
Day 2: More Aix and the Montmirail and Vaison-la- Malaucène, and Le Barroux,
Montagne Ste-Victoire Romaine for the views from its château.
Aix is also synonymous with The Dentelles de Montmirail Next comes the striking Gordes
Paul Cézanne: see his paintings mountains are among Provence’s (p173), a village perché. Visit the
in the Musée Granet, and visit most beautiful landscapes. nearby 12th-century Abbaye de
his evocative studio, which has Take the scenic drive (p163), Sénanque (pp168–9) and finish
been left unchanged. Take a starting in Beaumes-de-Venise, in Roussillon (p173), taking a
scenic drive around Cézanne’s famous for its dessert wine, and stroll through its ochre quarries.
beloved Montagne Ste-Victoire, carrying on to Vacqueyras and
which he painted many times, Gigondas, home to a famous Day 7: Apt, La Tour d’Aigues
and have a drink at his favourite and Pertuis
Café des Deux Garçons. Charming Apt (p176) has a
fascinating cathedral; learn
Day 3: Abbaye de Silvacane, about Apt’s famous crystallized
Petit Luberon, Cavaillon fruits at the Musée de l’Aventure
Some of Provence’s most Industrielle. Go through the Parc
beautiful landscapes and villages Naturel Régional du Luberon;
are in the Petit Luberon, north stop at La Tour d’Aigues (p177)
of Aix. Stop at the 12th-century for the Renaissance château
Cistercian Abbaye de Silvacane and ceramics museum, then at
(p151), then take the driving Pertuis (p177) to see its Gothic
tour (pp174–5), starting in Eglise St-Nicolas before heading
Lourmarin and continuing back to Marseille.
through the delightful
villages of Bonnieux, Lacoste, To extend your trip…
Ménerbes and Oppède-le- Head 42 km (26 miles) east
Vieux. End up in Cavaillon from Apt to Forcalquier
(p174), famous for melons; stay (p186). Spend two days in the
overnight to visit its exceptional A weekend antiques fair in L’Isle-sur-la- Alpes-de-Haute Provence.
morning market. Sorgue, the “Venice of Provence”
16  INTRODUCING PROVENCE Harwich
UNITED KINGDOM

Putting Provence on the Map Reading London

Provence is situated in the sun-blessed southeast Dover

Portsmouth
corner of France, edged to the south by the Poole
Newhaven
Mediterranean. Its most illustrious stretch of
coastline, roughly from Menton to Bandol, is also
el
known as the Côte d’Azur, although the nearer to nn
Cha
Spain
Italy it gets the more likely it is to be referred to as h
Englis
the Riviera. To the east are Italy and the Alps, to the
Dieppe
west, the Rhône river. The region covers an area
Cherbourg
of over 30,000 sq km (18,650 sq miles) with Le Havre
a population of about 4.9 million. Rouen
Plymouth, Plymouth,
Ireland Weymouth
Caen

Roscoff

Brest St-Malo
Alençon

Chartres
Rennes

Lorient Le Mans

St-
Europe N O RWAY Nazaire Angers
S W E DEN Lo Tours
Nantes i re
NORTH
D EN M AR K
SEA
UNITED Gijón
KINGDOM
REP. OF
IRELAND NETHERLANDS
POLAND Les Sables-
d’Olonne Poitiers
GERMANY
BELGIUM
CZECH
REPUBLIC La Rochelle
SLOVAKIA
FRANCE
AUSTRIA HUNGARY
SWITZ.
AT L A N T I C SLOV.
CROATIA Limoges
OCEAN
BOSNIA SERBIA
HERZ.
ITA LY
MONTEN.
KOS.
MAC.
ALBANIA
PORTUGAL Brive-la-
SPAIN Gaillarde
GR E E C E Bordeaux

D o rd o g n e
Arcachon
Ga

St Nazaire Plymouth, Portsmouth on

r

Portsmouth Bay of ne
Biscay
Gijón
Santander
Biarritz
Key Bilbao Toulouse
Pau Tarbes
Area covered by this guide
Ferry service
Airport Vitoria Pamplona
Gasteiz
Motorway
Major road Andorra
Burgos
ANDORRA
Railway line
S PA I N Huesca
0 kilometres 100
Eb

Soria
ro

0 miles 100
Zaragoza

Lleida

For additional map symbols see back flap

 Den Haag PUTTING PROVENCE ON THE MAP  17

Rotterdam
NETHERLANDS Göttingen Halle
Essen
Ramsgate Dortmund
Kassel
Oostende Antwerpen
Düsseldorf Erfurt
Dunkerque
Calais Bruxelles Köln
Lille
BELGIUM Bonn
Liège

Douai
GERMANY
Abbeville
Koblenz
Frankfurt
Amiens
LUXEM-
Charleville- Würzburg
Mézièrs BOURG
Luxembourg
Nuremberg
Mannheim
Reims
Saarbrücken
Metz Karlsruhe
Paris

n
Stuttgart

ei
Donau
e
Nancy
Rh
in
Se Strasbourg
Troyes
München

Orléans
Mulhouse
Lo Auxerre
i re Bodensee
Innsbruck
Basel
Dijon
Besançon Zürich
Bourges AU S T R I A
Bern
F R A N C E
SWITZERLAND
Mâcon Bolzano
Lac Léman
Genève

Trento
Clermont-
Ferrand Aosta
Lyon Bergamo
Chambéry

Saint Milano
Etienne

Grenoble Torino
Piacenza
Po
Valence
Parma

IT ALY
e

Gap
Rhôn

Rodez
Cuneo Genova
Millau
Savona
Albi Avignon La Spezia
Nîmes Provence
Montpellier Nice Monaco Pisa
Aix-en-Provence Livorno
Cannes
Carcassonne Sète
Marseille
Narbonne Toulon
Piombino

Perpignan
Ile Rousse Bastia

Corsica
Mediterranean
Girona
Sea Ajaccio

Porto-Vecchio
Barcelona Sardinia
 INTRODUCING PROVENCE  19

A PORTRAIT OF
PROVENCE
In a comparatively short time, Provence has changed its face. A few generations
ago it was, to the French, a place of indolent southern bumpkins. To foreigners,
it was an idyllic spot, but one reserved, it seemed to many, for the rich or
artistic. Now Provence, more than any other region, is where the French would
choose to live and work, and its holiday routes buzz with both local and
international traffic all year round.

The high-tech industry based here can Shopkeepers always greet you as you
attract top-flight staff, not just from enter, but open and close on the dot.
France but from all over the world. Lunch, in Provence, is sacrosanct.
Still, Provence remains an essentially Traditions are important to the people
rural region. At its edges, it has a lively of Provence. Local crafts are not quaint
Latin beat: almost Spanish among the revivals, but respected, time-honoured
gardians of the Camargue in the west, occupations. Festivals, such as La Bravade
Italian in Nice to the east. The rest of in St-Tropez, have been taking place for
the region is mostly traditional and the last 450 years. Artists who came here
conservative. Only in games of pétanque for the light and the scenery found other
or discussions about European bureau- inspirations, too. Picasso himself learned
cracy does the talk become animated. the potter’s art at the wheel of a Provençal
But, once engaged in conversation, craftsman. Homes will have hand-turned
Provençals are the most generous and local chestnut or oak furniture, terre rouge
warmest of hosts. There is an all-pervading clay pots, Moustiers faïence, Biot glassware
Frenchness, of course, which means and furnishings using the traditional
that people are polite and punctilious. indiennes patterns of Arles and Nîmes.

Locals enjoying a leisurely game of pétanque at Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Basilique de Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde in Marseille
20  introducing provence

Islam, as well as by pagan gods. Religious

beliefs are so well mixed that it is often
difficult to separate them. Carnival and
Corpus Christi extend Easter, which has
more importance here than in many other
parts of Europe. Christmas, too, is an
elaborate affair. The rituals begin as early
as 4 December, St Barb’s day, with the
planting of grains of wheat, a pagan
symbol of renewal and rebirth.
Superstitions linger in the countryside.
An egg, salt, bread and matches, humble
A traditional bakery in Ville-sur-Auzon, in Vaucluse representations of elemental concepts, may
be given to a newborn baby, while carline
The home is run as it has been for thistles may be seen nailed to
generations. Provençal kitchens, at front doors for good luck.
the heart of family life, are famous.
Combining simplicity with bounty, Landscape and People
they mix the aroma of herbs with Provence has a typically
the generosity of wine. In the envi­ Mediterranean landscape: the
ous and admiring eyes of visitors, mountains drop down to the sea;
they are the epitome of taste. communities perch on crags or
cling to remote hillsides. It is little
Tradition and Customs A colourful fruit and wonder that traditions live on
Good taste is inbred. In rural vegetable market here. For centuries, too, it was a
communities, the familiarity of the weather, place for outlaws from France, who could
the seasons and the harvests are sources of assume new identities here and carry on
constant discussion. Gardens, full of fruit with their lives. Perhaps as a result, strangers
trees, vegetables and flowers, are a matter
of pride. Even city­dwellers know how the
best produce should be grown, and may
well have access to a country relation’s plot.
Market stalls are beautifully laid out and
carefully scrutinized and, no matter how
abundant the fruit, the vegetables or the
wine, they are all grist for debate.
There are still heated discussions fuelled
by the latest developments imposed by
the European Union, whose legislation,
farmers say, has in the past had a detri­
mental effect on productive Provençal
land, when for example ancient vineyards
were grubbed up and landowners’ wealth
sent into rapid decline.
The harvest cycle is close to the gods,
whose benificence can affect the crops as
surely as any EU bureaucrat. As Catholic as
the rest of France, the people of Provence
are also touched with a mystic sense that
has been influenced by Mithraism and Harvesting linden blossoms to make tilleul infusion
 A PORTRAIT OF PROVENCE  21

The dramatic, isolated crags of Les Pénitents des Mées, in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence

were not to be trusted, and remained The fact that Piat was a woman made
outsiders forever. A seemingly trivial slight no difference to her enemies, ironic in
might spark a feud which could last for a region where women have not been
generations. There are still villages today treated as equals. Alphonse Daudet noted
where one family does not speak to another, the Provençal male’s “incurable contempt”
even though each has long forgotten why. for women, however, the Queen of Arles
This attitude, and its tragic implications, was is elected for her virtues as an upholder
finely portrayed by Yves Montand, with of the traditional Provençal values. It
Gérard Depardieu as the shunned outsider, was also this region that nurtured the
in Claud Berri’s films of Marcel Pagnol’s Jean 20th century’s icon of French woman-
de Florette and Manon des Sources. The more hood, Brigitte Bardot. Furthermore, the
cosmopolitan coast is the territory of film town of Aix-en-Provence has had a female
noir. Here, the tradition of silence and family mayor since 2001.
ties has not always been beneficial. Jean- There are great rewards for the visitor
Paul Belmondo and Alain Delon romanti- who can appreciate the many facets of
cized it in Borsalino; Gene Hackman revealed Provence – its traditions as well as its
its dark underside in The beauty and glamour. But,
French Connection. the more often you
In 1982, the Antibes- return, the more you will
based English novelist realize, as have some of
Graham Greene published the world’s greatest
an exposé of corruption in artists and writers, that
Nice. In 1994,Yann Piat, anti- part of the endless allure
drugs campaigner and of Provence lies within
member of parliament, the very secrets that it
was assassinated in Hyères. Peillon, a perched village in Provence refuses to surrender.
22  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

The Natural History of Provence

A fascinating array of insects, birds, animals and flowers
flourish in the varied habitats available in Provence, from
the Mediterranean to coastal wetlands, rocky gorges and
the remote peaks of the Alpes Maritimes. The area has the
mildest climate in France: hot, mainly dry summers, and
warm, mild winters near the coast. In early spring the
myriad flowers are at their best, while numbers of unusual
birds are at their highest in late spring. Many of the wilder
areas have been made into reserves, often with routes
marked out for exploration.

Mont Ventoux’s The Luberon (see pp174–6) is a

lower slopes are huge limestone range, rich in
flower-covered orchids, such as this military
in the spring orchid. It is also a hunting
(see p164). ground for birds of prey.

Orange

Les Alpilles’ limestone ridge (see p145) attracts birds

of prey, including Bonelli’s eagles, Egyptian
Carpentras
vultures and eagle owls, as well as this more
mild-mannered bee-eater.
Avignon
Vaucluse
ne
Rhô

Arles
Bouches-du-Rhône
and Nîmes

The Camargue, at the delta of the river Rhône,

is one of Europe’s most important wetlands
(see pp140–41). Water birds that thrive here include Marseille
purple herons and the greater flamingo. Lizards,
such as this ocellated lizard, can also be seen.

The Côte Bleue is

rich in marine life,
such as octopuses,
in the deeper waters.

The Montagne Ste-Victoire is

a limestone range that attracts
walkers and climbers. It was one
of Cézanne’s favourite subjects.

The Plaine de la Crau is 50,000 ha (193 sq miles) of stony Les Calanques (see p157) are narrow inlets
plains and steppe-like grasslands southeast of Arles, home bounded by cliffs. The rocky slopes are
to birds like this hoopoe, and the rare pin-tailed sandgrouse. home to woodland birds such as owls.
 A PORTRAIT OF PROVENCE  23

The Parc National du Mercantour is one of the

finest Alpine reserves (see p101), containing wildlife
such as these marmots, and chamois, ibex and
mouflon (wild sheep). It is also good walking country.
The Haute Provence The Cime de la Bonette
Geological Reserve near (see p183) is a lofty pass
Digne (see p184) has a where chamois roam.
spectacular collection of giant
ammonites embedded in rock.

The Gorges du Verdon area, between the

Barcelonnette Alps and the Mediterranean, is a beautiful
nature reserve with a dramatic canyon at its
centre (see pp188–9). A footpath along the
Alpes-de-Haute- canyon floor allows detailed examination
Provence of the rock formations, rare plants and birds.

The Gorges de la
Vésubie (see p99) has
e
nc
ra

Digne-les-Bains viewpoints from which

Du

to spot migrating birds

Va r
such as swallows.
n
rdo

The Préalpes de Grasse, known

Ve

The Riviera and for their dramatic gorges, lie to

the Alpes Maritimes the east of the Alpes Maritimes.

Nice

The Var and the Iles

d’Hyères Fréjus The Massif de l’Esterel’s
(see p128) high rocky coves
and scrubland are home to
various species of snakes.
In the Massif des Maures (see pp120–21),
The Massif de la Ste-Baume dense woods contain bee-eaters,
has many broadleaved trees woodchat shrikes and hoopoes. They
Toulon that are vividly coloured also provide sanctuary for the rare
in autumn. Hermann’s tortoise.

Key The Iles d’Hyères

National park
(see pp118–19), scattered a
ferry ride away from the
Regional natural park most southerly point of
Protected site Provence, are best known
Reserve for their abundant sea life,
including fish such as
wrasse. Geckos and rare
0 kilometres 25
birds like the great spotted
0 miles 25 cuckoo can be seen.
24  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

Perched Villages
Some of the most attractive architectural features of
Provence are the villages perchés, or perched villages. They
rise like jagged summits on the hilltops where they were
built for safety in the political turmoil of the Middle Ages.
From their lofty heights they kept vigil over the hinterland
as well as the coast. They were built around castle keeps
and wrapped in thick ramparts, a huddle of cobbled
streets, steps, alleys and archways. Few were able to sustain
their peasant communities beyond the 19th-century
The mountainous site of Peillon
agrarian reforms, and a century of poverty and depopu-
(see p99) is typical of the way
lation followed. Today many of the villages have been perched villages blend
restored by a new generation of artists, organically with the
craftworkers and holiday-makers.
NE landscape.

RUE
U

DE
TO
PL

LA
UR
AC

PO
E

LA
CH UL
G

DE
A

RUE

UE
A LE
RL

R
D
ES

ES E
D

D
LIS
E

O
U

RI
E D

L’ É G

ERS
S
E

DE

BA
UQUE
S
TÉE

St-Paul de Vence
MON

Many of the key features of RUE

RUE GR ANDE
this typical village perché
have been preserved. The
CO
medieval ramparts were UR
TIN
completely reinforced by E S
T P
Francis I in the 16th century. AU
L
BASTION REMPAR TS
Today it is again besieged – as ST
one of France’s most popular REMY
tourist sights (see p79).
Complicated entrances
confused invaders and
provided extra security The church was
against attack. always the focal
point of the village.

Side entrances were

never obtrusive or
elaborate, but were
usually small and, as in
Eze (see p92), opened
onto narrow, winding
lanes. Sometimes there
were more gates or Castles and keeps (donjons), and sometimes
abrupt turns within fortified churches, were always sited with the
the walls to confuse best viewpoint in the village, and provided
attacking soldiers, sanctuary in times of crisis. Many, like the
making the town easier castle at Eze (see p92), were often attacked
to defend. and are now in ruins.
 A PORTRAIT OF PROVENCE  25

The church sustained the

religious life of the community.
As in Les Baux (see p146), it was
usually built near the keep of the
castle, part of a central core of
communal buildings, and was
often fortified. The bell would be
rung to warn of impending attack.

Fountains were essential to the village,

often being the sole source of water. The arcades lent support to the
Many, like this one in Vence (see p78), buildings in the narrow, winding
were elaborately embellished. streets, as here in Roquebrune
(see p102). They also gave shelter
from sun and rain.
Fountain
Arched and
stepped streets

CA
SS
ET
UR
FO
TE
UT
HA
U
E D

IS

DE
RUE DU PONT
RU

AN
R
G
E
RU
DE
SCENDRE DE LA CASTRE
E
ND DE
G R A E E
L AC PIC
P
H OS
L’
T
OUES
ARTS
REMP
OUEST

A narrow gateway
was easily secured.

Ramparts and
bastions provided
solid defences.

Main gates were

always narrow so they
could be closed off and
defended in times of
attack. Some gates had
the additional protection
The ramparts surrounded the entire of portcullises. Peille
village with thick stone walls, often with (see p99) in the Alpes
houses built into them. The defences, like Maritimes is a typical
those of St-Paul de Vence (see p79), were Medieval village, full of
strengthened in the 16th century under narrow, cobbled streets,
Francis I and by Vauban, Louis XIV’s military which also helped
architect. Today they offer superb views. defend the village.
26  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

Rural Architecture in Provence

Traditional architectural features are reminders of how
influential the weather is on living conditions in rural
Provence. Great efforts are made to ease the biting gusts of
the Mistral and the relentless heat of the summer sun. Thick
stone walls, small windows and reinforced doors are all
recognizable characteristics. Traditional farmhouses were
built entirely from wood, clay, stone and soil, all locally
found materials. Rows of hardy cypress trees were planted
to act as a windbreak on the north side; plane and lotus Bories (see p173) are drystone
trees provided shade to the south. huts built using techniques
dating back to 2,000 BC.

The Provençal Mas

Found across rural Provence, the mas is a low, squat
stone farmhouse. Protection and strength are vital to
its construction – walls are made of compact stone
blocks and the wooden doors and shutters are thick
and reinforced. Outbuildings often included a cellar,
Chimneys are
stables, a bread oven and dovecote.
stone-built, low
and squat, and lie
close to the roof.
Dovecot
Canal roof tiling, or
tuiles romaines, is typical
of the south.

Roughly cut stone

bricks are used to
make the walls.

The roof is gently The north wall is

The most exposed part of sloping and thatched rounded for protection
the roof is unthatched. with marsh reeds. against the Mistral.

The gardian’s cabin was the original dwelling

place of the bull herdsman or gardian of the
Camargue. It is a small, narrow structure, The windows Walls are made of
consisting of a dining room and bedroom, are small and compressed clay and
divided by a reed screen and furnished simply. reinforced. straw, known as cob.
 A PORTRAIT OF PROVENCE  27

The tiled roofs are gently sloping and are

influenced by Roman design, with a
decorative frieze (génoise) under the
eaves. The tiles are made of thick, red
terracotta and curved in shape – a double
or triple layer of tiles are set in mortar and
protrude beyond the wall.
Windows are built on three sides of the mas but
none on the north to avoid the Mistral’s full blast.
They are kept small to prevent the winter winds
coming in, but large enough to let light in.
Interlocking clay tiles
form canals, allowing
rainwater to run down
and drain off the roof. The Mistral winds blow so fiercely
that the mas was often built facing
the southeast to minimize the wind’s
impact. Roofs are built low to the
ground, covering the living quarters
and annexes. The gentle slope prevents
the tiles blowing and sliding off.

The walls are Stone ice houses were built near the
rendered smooth mas and used for storage during the
with plaster. winter months. Blocks of ice were cut
and put in the huts, insulated with hay.

Ironwork Bell Towers

Wrought-iron bell towers
have been a speciality in
Provence since the 16th
century. Their light, open
framework allows strong
winds to blow through and
the sound of the bells to
carry for miles. The design
and complexity depends on
the size and purpose of the
building. These examples
illustrate the skills of local Highly ornate The bell tower The Hôtel de Notre-Dame’s
craftsmen across the region. bell tower in Aix of St-Jérôme in Ville bell tower bell tower in
Digne-les-Bains in Orange Sisteron
28  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

Architectural Styles in Provence

From the imperial grandeur of Roman constructions to the modern
domestic designs of Le Corbusier, Provence has a magnificent array
of architectural styles. The Middle Ages saw a flourishing of great
Romanesque abbeys and churches and from the 16th to the 18th
centuries, as prosperity increased, châteaux and town houses were
built. With the expansion of towns in the 19th century came an
increase in apartment blocks and public buildings to accommodate
the fast-growing population. Today, successful restoration has taken
place, but often in haste. The demands of tourism have taken their An 18th-century fountain in
toll, particularly on the coast, resulting in some ugly developments. Pernes-les-Fontaines

Roman Architecture Ornate

(20 BC–AD 400) high-relief
The triumphal arch of
The quality of Roman archi­ Glanum (see pp144–5) is
tecture is illustrated by the the original entrance to
many extant amphitheatres, the oldest Roman city in
triumphal arches and thermal Provence. Carvings on
baths found across the region, the outer arch show
Caesar’s victory over
all built with large blocks of
the Gauls and Greeks.
local limestone.
Doric columns on
second storey Both storeys
have 60 arcades

Nîmes Arènes, built in the 1st century AD (see p136) Nîmes’ well-preserved Maison Carrée (see p136)

Roman Architecture
(11th–12th Centuries) This church entrance
The high point of Provençal architecture Multiple in Seyne (see p182) is
came after the Dark Ages. It was a arches an example of 13th­
combination of Classical order and century Romanesque
perfection, inspired by Roman design Elaborate architecture. The slight
and new styles from northern and religious point of the multiple
carvings arches hints at a move
southern Europe. This style is charac­
away from strict
terized especially in religious buildings
Romanesque purity.
by elegant symmetry and simplicity.

Clustered pillar

Decorated capital with

interlaced leaves

Capital from the Abbaye du Thoronet (see p112) The Abbaye de Sénanque, founded in 1148 (see pp168–9)
 A PORTRAIT OF PROVENCE  29

Late Middle Ages

(13th–16th Centuries)
Feuding and religious wars led
to people withdrawing to towns,
protected by fortified walls and gates.
Communication between houses
was often by underground passages.
Streets were roughly paved and water
and sewage were carried away by Tour de la Campana in the Palais des
a central gutter. Papes (see pp48–9)

Crenellation or
battlements
Street in St-Martin-Vésubie (see p99)
showing central gutter

Aigues-Mortes (see pp138–9)

was built by Louis IX in the
Portcullis used 13th century, according to
against invaders a strict grid pattern. This
strategically placed fort
overlooks both sea and land.

Classical Architecture
(17th–18th Centuries) Tablet with
symbol of
The severity and order of the
Classical style was relieved by authority
elaborate carvings on doorways Refined
and windows. Gardens became stone
more formal and symmetrical.

Carved Regency
doorway Neo-Classical
pillar

The Musée du Palais de

l’Archevêché in Aix (see
The 17th-century Barbentane château, p152) has elaborately carved Pavillon de Vendôme detail,
fronted by formal gardens (see p134) wooden entrance doors. Aix-en-Provence (see p153)

Modern Architecture
(1890–Present Day)
The magnificent hotels and villas
of the belle époque
é have given
way to more utilitarian housing
and public buildings. But the
numerous modern art galleries Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse (see p156)
represent the highest standards
of 20th-century architecture.
Rounded Cupola above
pavilion a round corner
tower

The Musée d’Art

Moderne et d’Art
Contemporain in Nice
(see p89) is made up of
square towers, linked by
The palatial Négresco hotel in Nice (see p88) glass passageways.
30  IntroducIng provence

Artists of Provence
provence inspired many of the most original 19th- and
20th-century painters. they were attracted by the
luminescent quality of the light here, and the consequent
brilliance of the colours. cézanne, who was a native, and
v gogh, a convert, were both fired by the vibrant shades
van
of the landscape. the Impressionists Monet and renoir
came early, and followers included Bonnard, Signac and Jean Cocteau (1889–1963) spent
dufy. the two giants of 20th-century painting, Matisse and many years on the coast and created
picasso, both settled here. the artistic tradition is kept alive his museum in Menton (see p103).
by small galleries in almost every town, as well as major Noce imaginaire (1957) is one of his
murals from the Salle des Mariages.
museums throughout the region.
Victor Vasarely (1906–97) restored the
château in Gordes. His Kinetic and Op
Art can be seen in Aix-en-Provence (see p153).

Regions of
Provence

Orange Sisteron
Digne-les-
Bains
Avignon
Gordes
Nîmes
Area of
main map Menton
Arles
Aix-en-Provence

Martigues St-Raphaël
Marseille St-Tropez
Toulon
Vincent Van Gogh (1853–90)
painted Van Gogh’s Chair (1888) in
Arles (see pp148–50). His two years
here and in St-Rémy (see pp144–5)
were his most prolific. Paul Cézanne (1839–1906), in
his desire to scour the “depth of
reality”, often painted his native Mougins
Aix (see pp152–3).
Vallauris

Le Cannet
Paul Signac (1863–1935) came Golfe-Juan
to St-Tropez in 1892, painting
it in his palette of rainbow dots Cannes
(see pp122–6).
Pointe
Croisette

Félix Ziem (1821–1911), born in Burgundy,

was a great traveller. He adored Venice, and
found the same romantic inspiration by the
canals of Martigues (see p151), where he painted
La Camargue, Coucher de Soleil.

Pablo Picasso (1881–1973) created

this goat-like jug, Cabri (1947),
0 kilometres 5
while in Vallauris, where he
0 miles 5 learned the potter’s craft. It is
now in the Musée Picasso,
Antibes (see p77).
 a portrait of provence  31

Raoul Dufy (1877–1953)

Marc Chagall (1887–1985), appreciated the pleasures
Russian painter of light-hearted of the coast. A twilight
and biblically inspired works, stroll beneath the palm
lived in the Vence area from trees is evoked in
1949 (see p78). Nice, Le Casino de la
Jetée (1928).

Pierre Auguste Renoir

(1841–1919) sought relief from his
rheumatism at Cagnes in 1905 and
found new inspiration (see p82).

Contes

Castagniers Gorbio

Roquebrune-
Cap Martin
Gattières
Drap
La Turbie

Monaco
Eze
Vence Hans Van Meegeren
Beaulieu-sur-Mer
(1889–1947), the
Ventabrun Dutch master-forger of
Nice
St-Paul- Villefranche- Vermeer, was living in Roquebrune
de-Vence sur-Mer (see p102) when he was found out.

Cagnes-
sur-Mer St-Laurent-
du-Var

Biot
Fernand Léger (1881–1955) Henri Matisse (1869–1954)
is celebrated for his vivid captured the Riviera’s light
Cubist and industrial works
and colour even in homely
in oils and ceramics, on show
in Biot (see p78). settings such as Intérieur au
Phonographe (1924)
Antibes (see pp86–7).

Juan-les-
Pins Artists in Provençal History
Provence was home to great artists long before the
advent of modern art. In the Middle Ages,
the Schools of Avignon and Nice
flourished. The latter was dominated by
the Bréa family, whose works can be
seen in churches throughout the
region. Sculptor Pierre Puget (1620–
94) is called the “Michelangelo
of Provence”. His birthplace,
Marseille, has several of his works
(see pp154–6). But Jean-Honoré
Fragonard (1732–1806) is most
Provençal of them all – his
Romantic paintings are filled
Nicolas de Staël (1914–55) was born in
with Grasse flowers (see p70).
Russia. When successful, he bought a house
in the Luberon for his wife, but chose to live Crucifixion (1512) by Louis Bréa, monastery
with his mistress in Antibes (see p76). His of Notre-Dame, Cimiez (see p88)
Paysage Méditerranéen was painted in 1953.
32  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

Writers in Provence
1920 Consumptive New Zealand short
The Nobel Laureate Frédéric Mistral (1830–1914) was the story writer Katherine Mansfield
champion of the Provençal language, but better known recuperates in Menton (see pp102–3)
and writes Miss Bull and Passion among
are the local writers who have captured the Provençal other pieces.
character: Alphonse Daudet, Jean Giono, Emile Zola and
1895 Jean Giono is born in
Marcel Pagnol. French writers such as Dumas and Hugo Manosque (see p186). Work like
used Provençal backdrops for their fiction; foreign writers The Man who Planted Trees evokes
the region.
also found inspiration in the region.

1892 The last part of

Thus Spake Zarathustra Frédéric Mistral
Alphonse by German Friedrich
Daudet Nietzsche is published.
He devised it after
traversing the path in
Eze (see p92) which
was later named
after him.
1869 Alphonse Daudet 1904 Poet Frédéric
publishes Collected Letters Mistral declared
from my Windmill, set in joint winner of
An early edition a windmill at Fontvieille the Nobel Prize.
of The Count of (see p147).
Monte Cristo
1844 Alexander Dumas 1870 Death in Cannes of
publishes The Count of Monte Prosper Mérimée, author
Cristo, set in the Château d’If, of Carmen, Bizet’s opera.
Marseille (see p156).
1840 1855 1870 1885 1900 1915

1840 1855 1870 1885 1900 1915

1907 Provençal
1862 Les Misérables by Victor 1887 Journalist poet, René Char,
Hugo is published. The early Stéphen Liégeard is born in L’Isle-
chapters are set in Digne-les- introduces the sur-la-Sorgue.
Bains (see p184). term, Côte d’Azur.
1868 Edmond Rostand,
author of Cyrano de
1919 Edith Wharton,
Bergerac (1897) is born in
American author of
Marseille (see pp154–6).
The Age of Innocence,
visits Hyères
(see p119). A street is
named after her.

Early Writers
For centuries, troubadour ballads and religious Edith Wharton
poems, or Noels, formed the core of liter-
ature in Provence. While certain unique
individuals stand out, it was not until
1854, with Mistral’s help, that Provençal
writers found their own “voice”. Somerset
1327 Petrarch (see p49) falls Maugham
in unrequited love with Laura 1926 British author W Somerset Maugham
de Noves in Avignon, inspiring buys the Villa Mauresque, Cap Ferrat,
his Canzonière poems. and writes Cakes and Ale (1930).
1555 Nostradamus, from
St-Rémy, publishes The Prophecies,
which are outlawed by the Vatican. Emile
1764 Tobias Smollett “discovers” Zola
1885 Germinal published
Nice. (He published his book, Travels by Emile Zola, boyhood
Italy, in 1766.)
through France and Italy friend of Cézanne, as
1791 Marquis de Sade, the original part of his 20-novel
sadist, publishes Justine, written Petrarch’s Laura cycle, The Rougon-
while imprisoned in the Bastille. de Noves Macquarts (1871–93),
set partly round Aix.
 A PORTRAIT OF PROVENCE  33

1931 Briton Aldous Huxley writes Brave

New World in Sanary-sur-Mer (see p116),
the setting for Eyeless in Gaza (1936). Marcel
Pagnol
1974 Death of film
director and writer
Marcel Pagnol, whose
Marseille Trilogy
1933 Thomas Mann, who wrote Death explored his Provençal
in Venice (1913), flees Germany for childhood.
Sanary (see p116) with his two sons 1980 British actor Dirk
and his brother Heinrich.
Bogarde, having moved to
Provence in the early 1970s,
publishes his first novel,
A Gentle Occupation.

Lawrence
Durrell

1985 The last volume

of Briton Lawrence
Durrell’s Avignon
Quintet is published.

St-Exupéry’s poignant fable,

Le Petit Prince
1944 Antoine de St-Exupéry, aviator and 1989 Briton Peter Mayle’s book A
author of Vol de Nuit (1931) and Le Petit Year in Provence generates interest
Prince (1943), goes missing. His last flight in the Luberon.
passed his sister’s house at Agay.

1930 1945 1960 1975 1990 2005

1930 1945 1960 1975 1990 2005

1978 Marseille-born
Sébastien Japrisot publishes
the award-winning L’Eté
Meurtrier, set in a
Meurtrier Le Clézio
1954 Françoise Sagan,
Provençal village.
aged 18, writes Bonjour
Tristesse (1954) about the
Esterel coast.

1994 Jean-Marie Gustave Le

Clézio (born 1940 in Nice) is
voted Best Living French Writer
Albert by the readers of Lire magazine.
Camus

1993 Briton Anthony Burgess,

the author of A Clockwork Orange
(1962), writes his final work, Dead
Man in Deptford, in Monaco.
1957 Albert Camus buys
a house in Lourmarin (see
p175), where he writes an
autobiographical novel, 1985 Patrick Süskind’s novel Perfume, in
not published until 1994. which much of the action takes place
in Grasse, is published.

The
Fitzgeralds Graham
Greene
1934 American author F Scott Fitzgerald’s South of
France-based Tender is the Night is published. Scott and 1982 Britain’s Graham
his wife Zelda stay in a villa at Juan-Les-Pins in 1926. Greene writes
J’Accuse – The Dark
Side of Nice.
34  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

The Beaches of Provence

From the untamed expanses of the Rhône delta to the hot spots
of the Riviera, via the cliffs and coves of the Var, the coastline
of Provence is extremely varied. Resort beaches around the
towns of the Riviera, such as Menton, Nice and Monte‑Carlo, are
crowded and noisy in the height of summer. They often charge
a fee, but are usually well‑kept and offer good watersports
facilities. It is, however, possible to seek out quieter corners
away from the crowds if you know where to look.

The Côte d’Azur beaches

offer warmth and sunshine
all year long, making towns
such as Villefranche-sur-
Mer (see p92) very popular
with tourists.

The Camargue beaches (see pp140–42) at the mouth The Côte Bleue is dotted
of the Rhône delta, are often deserted. The long, flat with fishing ports and
sands are ideal for horse riding, but there is a shortage elegant summer residences.
of amenities. Pine trees line the beaches.

Arles Salon de
Provence

BOUCHES-DU-RHONE
AND NIMES Aix-en-Provence

Saintes-Maries-
de-la-Mer

C Martigues Carry-le-
a Rouet Marseille
m
a r Côte Bleue Aubagne
g u
e
Le
s C
alanq
ues
Bandol
Sanary-sur-Mer
Les Calanques
(see p157) are C ap
Sic ié
beautiful and
dramatic fjord-like
inlets situated east of
Marseille. The sheer
white cliffs, some
400 m (1,312 ft) high,
drop vertically into Cap Sicié is a small
the tempting, peninsula that juts
blue water. out from the Var
mainland. It is famed
for its strong winds and
waves, ideal for experi-
enced windsurfers.
 A PORTRAIT OF PROVENCE  35

Provence’s Ten Best Beaches

1 Best sandy beach 5 Best trendy beach 8 Best teen and twenties
Plage de Piémanson, east of the Tahiti‑Plage in St‑Tropez is beach
Camargue, is remote enough the coast’s showcase for fun, The all‑night bars, cafés and
for nudist bathing. sun, fashion and glamour. nightclubs of Juan‑les‑Pins
2 Best deep‑sea diving 6 Best family beaches make this a lively resort.
The deep Calanques waters Fréjus‑Plage and the beach 9 Best activity beach
are ideal for exploring. of St‑Raphaël are clean, safe Watersports fanatics gather at
3 Best sea fishing and have excellent facilities the Ruhl‑Plage in Nice for the
Bandol and Sanary‑sur‑Mer are for families. jet‑skiing and parasailing.
charming resorts, where the 7 Best star‑spotter’s beach 0 Best winter beach
tuna boats make their daily catch. Cannes’ beautiful setting, with Menton is the warmest resort
4 Best small resort beach its scenic harbour, casino and on the Riviera and the sun shines
Le Lavandou offers all amenities stylish beaches, attracts the all year round, ideal for relaxing
on a small scale. rich and famous. winter holidays.

0 kilometres 25

0 miles 25

THE RIVIERA AND THE

The Riviera is the most popular ALPES MARITIMES
destination for sun‑worshippers, Menton
with its big, traditional resorts
and private golden beaches. Nice Monaco

Grasse
a
Antibes r
Juan-les-Pins e
Cannes i
v
THE VAR AND THE i
R

ILES D’HYERES
l

Fréjus
re

t
e

Brignoles St-Raphaël s
E

St-Tropez

Cavalaire-sur-Mer
Toulon Le Lavandou

Hyères

Iles d'Hyères

t e e
C ô i s
r o The Esterel coast stretches from
V a
Cannes to St‑Raphaël. Its most
striking features are the red cliffs
The Côte Varoise has a and rocks, deep ravines and
beach to suit all tastes, secluded coves.
offering popular family
resorts, small fishing ports
and excellent snorkelling.
36  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

PROVENCE THROUGH THE YEAR

Provence is at its prettiest in spring, when the region. To entertain the thousands of
flowers bring livelihoods to perfume-makers holidaymakers, July and August are filled with
and pleasure to passers-by. It can also be music festivals. Come autumn, vineyards turn
surprisingly cold as this is when the Mistral to copper and the grapes are harvested.
blows its strongest. Snows blanket the mountains from December
Summer fruit and vegetables are both and skiers take to the slopes. Throughout the
abundant and beautiful, filling the local year, every town and village celebrates with a
markets. The midsummer heat is added to by fête, often with traditional costume and lively
the fires of St Jean and the Valensole plains are activities. For information, contact the local
striped with lavender, the indelible colour of tourist office (see p237).

March May
Festin des Courgourdons (last Fête des Gardians (1 May), Arles
Sun), Nice (see pp88–9). Folklore (see pp148–50). The town is
and sculpted gourd fête. taken over by the gardians or
cowboys who look after the
April Camargue cattle herds.
Procession aux Limaces (Good Pèlerinage des Gitans avec
Friday), Roquebrune-Cap-Martin Procession à la Mer de Sainte
(see p102). The streets are lit with Sarah (24–25 May), Stes-Maries-
shell lamps and a parade of de-la-Mer (see pp228–9).
locals dressed as disciples and Festival International du Film
legionnaires recreate the (two weeks in May), Cannes (see
entombment of Christ. pp72–3). The most prestigious
Printemps de Châteauneuf-du- annual film festival.
Pape – Salon des Vins (early April), La Bravade (16–18 May),
Châteauneuf-du-Pape (see p168). St-Tropez (see p228).
Women in traditional costume at the Feria Spring wine festival displaying Fête de la Transhumance
de Paqûes in Arles products of local wine growers. (late May–early June), St-Rémy
Fête de la St-Marc (end April), (see p144). Celebrates the
Châteauneuf-du-Pape (see p168). ancient custom of moving sheep
Spring Wine contest. (The year’s vintage to higher ground for the summer.
By the time March begins, is blessed on the 1st weekend Grand Prix Automobile de
lemons have already been in August.) Formule 1 (weekend after
harvested and the almond Feria de Paqûes (Easter), Arles Ascension), Monaco (see p98).
blossom has faded. Pear, plum (see pp148–50). Arletans turn out The only Grand Prix raced on
and apricot blossom brightens in their traditional costume for public roads laps up an
the landscape and the first a feria. The farandole is danced impressive 3,145 km (1,954 miles).
vegetables of spring are ready to the accompaniment of the Feria (Pentecost), Nîmes (see
for the markets: asparagus, beans tambourin drum and galoubet pp136–7). The first major
and green artichokes known as flute to mark the beginning of bullfighting event of the year
mourre de gats. By May, fruit the famous bullfighting season. takes place at Les Arènes.
markets are coloured with the
first ripe cherries and
strawberries of the year.
Southern mountain slopes
warm to the sunshine and come
alive with alpine flowers but the
northern slopes remain wintery.
Broom turns hillsides deep
yellow and bees start to make
honey from the sweet-smelling
rosemary flowers. Flocks of
sheep begin the journey of
transhumance up to the
summer pastures, and on the
vast plains maize, wheat and
rape push their way up through
the softening earth. Thousands of sheep parade through St-Rémy during the Fête de la Transhumance
 PROVENCE THROUGH THE YEAR  37

Average Daily Hours of Sunshine

Sunshine Chart
Hours The summer months are
12 guaranteed to be hot,
with the intensity
9 climaxing in July. Even
in the winter, coastal
6 towns can have up to
150 hours of sunshine
a month, but be warned:
3
it is often the icy Mistral
that blows the clouds
0 away in early spring.
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Summer
The Côte d’Azur is essentially
a playground in summer,
particularly in August when the
French take their holidays.
Rafters take to the rivers and
scuba divers explore the varied
sealife. For laid-on entertain-
ment, there are music festivals
throughout the region.
Three national celebrations
are also manifest: fireworks and
bonfires brighten the skies on
the Fête de St-Jean (June 24).
Bastille Day (July 14) is Celebrating the Fête de St-Jean with fireworks over Marseille harbour
celebrated with fireworks while
Assumption Day (August 15) opera season is held in the dancing, jousting and wine
is a time for great feasting. acoustically perfect Roman wagons open for tasting.
theatre (see pp166–7). Fête du Jasmin (first week-end),
June Jazz à Juan (mid- to late July), Grasse (see pp70–71). Floats,
Fête de la Tarasque (last w/e), Juan-les-Pins (see p76). One of the music and dancing in the town.
Tarascon (see p144). According area’s top jazz festivals. Procession de la Passion (5 Aug),
to local legend, the Jazz à Toulon (mid-July– Roquebrune-Cap-Martin (see
Tarasque monster once Aug), Toulon
early Aug p102). Over 500 locals take part
terrorized the region. (see p116–17). Free in staging Christ’s passion,
An effigy of the concerts in different enacted since the Virgin saved
monster is paraded squares every day the town from plague in 1467.
through the town. throughout the town. Le Festival de Musique (all
Festival International Recontres Interna- month), Menton (see pp102–3).
d’Art Lyrique (June & tionales de la Photo- Chamber music in the square.
July), Aix-en-Provence graphie (Jul–Sep),
(see pp152–3). Extensive Arles (see pp148–50).
programme of classical The legendary The National School of
music concerts and Tarasque Photography was set
opera is staged in the up in 1982 as a result
courtyard theatre of the of this festival, and each year
Archbishop’s Palace. the town is transformed into
a photographic arena.
July
Festival de la Sorgue (weekends
(week August
in July), Fontaine-de-Vaucluse & Corso de la Lavande (first
l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (see p169). weekend), Digne-les-Bains
Concerts, boat races and floating (see p229).
markets on the river Sorgue. Véraison Festival – A Medieval
Festival d’Avignon (mid- to late Celebration (early Aug),
July Avignon (see p229).
July), Châteauneuf-du-Pape (see
Chorégies d’Orange (all month), p168). A medieval market comes Holiday-makers on the crowded beaches
Orange. This long-established alive with 200 actors, music, of the Côte d’Azur
38  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

Average Monthly Rainfall

mm Inches Rainfall Chart
120 Spring and autumn are
4
the wettest times, with
the amount of rainfall
90
3 increasing as you head
inland. November rain
60 is the most violent,
2
often with storms
30 1 and flooding. Summer
is virtually rain-free,
0 0 causing drought in
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec some forest areas.

Autumn
When summer is over, it is time
for the vendange, the grape
harvest. In the Camargue,
rice is ready to be brought in.
Walnuts are picked and, in the
Maures, sweet chestnuts are
collected. The woods also yield
rewards for mushroom hunters,
while in Vaucluse and the Var
truffles are harvested from oak
woods and sold on the market
stalls, notably at Richerenches.
The hunting season begins
in November. Small birds, such
as thrushes, and ducks fall A grape picker at work during the autumn harvest
from flight into the pot and
wild boar are bagged, their Féria des Vendanges (second November
feet kept as talismans. Sheep week), Nîmes (see pp136–7). Fête du Prince (Fete Nationale)
are brought down to their An enjoyable combination of (19 Nov), Monaco (see pp94–8).
winter pastures. wine, dancing and bullfights. The second smallest indepen-
Festival de la Navigation de dent state in Europe celebrates
Plaisance (mid-Sep), Cannes (see its national day with a firework
pp72–3). Yachts from around the display over the harbour.
world meet in the harbour. Fête Festival International de la
du Vent (mid-Sep), Marseille (see Danse (biennial, late-Nov or
pp154–6). Kites from all over the early Dec), Cannes (see pp72–3).
world decorate the sky for two A festival of contemporary
days on the Plages du Prado. dance and ballet with an
impressive programme of
October international performances.
Fête de Sainte Marie Salomé
(Sunday nearest 22 Oct), Stes-
Maries-de-la-Mer. A similar fes-
tival to the Gypsy Pilgrimage
held in May (see pp228–9) with
a procession through the town’s
streets to the beach and the
ritual blessing of the sea.
On the hunt for truffles in the woods of Foire Internationale de
Haute Provence Marseille (end of Sep–early
Oct), Marseille (see pp154–6).
September Thousands of visitors pour into
Fête des Prémices du Riz the city to enjoy the annual fair.
(early Sep), Arles (see pp148–50). Various activities and sports
This festival of the rice harvest are organized with crafts, music
coincides with the last Spanish- and folklore entertainment from Performers at the Festival International de
style bullfights of the year. over 40 different countries. la Danse in Cannes
 PROVENCE THROUGH THE YEAR  39

Average Monthly Temperature Temperature Chart

The Mistral has a
°C °F substantial effect on
30 Maximum temperature 85 the temperature. During
Minimum temperature the winter and early
24 75
spring, it can drop
65 10 °C (18 °F) in only a
18
few hours. The summer
12 55 heat can be uncom-
fortable, but the
6 45 evenings cool down
and are perfect for
0 32
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec sitting outside.

The annual festival in celebration

Winter of the medieval perched
There is an old saying in village’s favourite flower.
Provence used to describe Carnaval de Nice, (all month),
winter: “l’hiver a ges d’ouro,” Nice. France’s largest pre-Lent
“winter has no hours”. It is a festival (see p228).
time to open the jams of the
summer, to make the geese and
Public Holidays
duck confits and to turn the
olive harvest into oil. New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Snow soon cuts off mountain Easter Sunday and Monday
passes and, at weekends, locals Ascension (sixth Thursday
and visitors take to the many after Easter)
ski resorts, warmed by juniper Whit Monday (second
or wild strawberry liqueurs. Relaxing in the winter sun in the Monday after Ascension)
Christmas is heralded by the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence Labour Day (1 May)
sale of santons, the figurines
VE Day (8 May)
used to decorate Provence’s February
distinctive cribs. Epiphany is Fête du Citron, (late Feb–early Bastille Day (14 Jul)
another important festival, Mar), Menton (see pp102–3). Assumption Day (15 Aug)
when the Three Kings are fêted Floats and music fill the town All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
with crown-shaped pastries. during the lemon festival. Remembrance Day (11 Nov)
Fête du Mimosa (third Sunday), Christmas Day (25 Dec)
December Bormes-les-Mimosas (see pp120–21).
Foire aux Santons (all month),
Marseille (see pp154–6). The
largest fair honouring the
symbolic clay figures that are
an integral part of Christmas.
Fête du Millesime – Vin de
Bandol (early December), Bandol
(see p116). Every wine-grower
in the town has their own stand
and there is free wine-tasting.
A different theme is chosen
every year with activities
and much merriment.
Noël and midnight mass (24 Dec),
Les Baux-de-Provence (see
pp146–7). A traditional festive feast
of the shepherds before mass.

January
Rallye de Monte-Carlo (late
pp96–7 . A major event
Jan, pp96–7)
in the motor sporting calendar.
Festival du Cirque (end of month),
Monaco (see p98). Circus shows
from around the globe. A colourful creation at the Fête du Citron in Menton
 INTRODUCING PROVENCE  41

THE HISTORY OF
PROVENCE
Few regions of France have experienced characterize the region were a desperate
such a varied and turbulent history as attempt at defence. The papacy dominated
Provence. There is evidence, in the form of the 14th century, and the magnificent
carvings, tools and weapons, of nomadic palace the popes built in Avignon remains
tribes and human settlements from today. The arts flourished too, especially
300,000 BC. The introduction of the vine, under King René in his capital of Aix. After
so important today, can be credited to his death in 1480, Provence lost its
the Phoenicians and Greeks who traded independence and its history became
along the coast. Perhaps more crucially, enmeshed with that of France. Religious
Provence was the Romans’ “Province” and war took its toll and the Great Plague of
few regions of their vast empire have Marseille killed tens of thousands in 1720.
retained such dramatic buildings; the A beguiling climate and improved
theatre at Orange, the arenas of Arles and transport in the 19th century began to
Nîmes, the Pont du Gard and the imposing attract artists and foreign nobility. Tiny
trophy of La Turbie are all testimony to fishing villages grew into glamorous
past Roman power. Riviera resorts. The allure remains for
The Middle Ages proved a stormy period millions of tourists, while economic
of feuding warlords and invasions; the investment means it is also a boom area
many fortified hilltop villages that for the technology industry.

A 16th-century map of Marseille and its harbour

Detail of an illuminated 13th-century manuscript showing a troubadour playing to a royal audience
42  introducing provence

Ancient Provence
rock carvings, fragments of paintings and remains from
primitive settlements suggest that provence was first
inhabited a million years ago. carvings in the grotte de
l’observatoire in Monaco and the decorated grotte cosquer
near Marseille are among the oldest of their kind in the world.
nomadic tribes roamed the land for centuries, notably the
“Double Head” Carving
celts from the north and the Ligurians from the east. not until
This stone figure (3rd century BC)
the arrival of the phoenicians and the greeks did trade probably decorated a Celtic
flourish in a more structured way and provençal sanctuary.
society become more stable.
The bories at Gordes date
back to 3,500 BC.

Celtic Doorway
(3rd century BC) The
niches in the pillars
held the embalmed
heads of Celtic heroes.

The Grotte des Fées at Mont

de Cordes contain prehistoric
carvings often associated with
modern astrological symbols.

St-Blaise, once a
The Foundation of Marseille heavily fortified Greek
trading centre, has
When Greek traders arrived in
only minimal remains.
600 BC, their captain, Protis,
attended a feast in honour of The Grotte Cosquer, with
the local chief’s daughter, paintings dating to 30,000
Gyptis. She chose Protis BC, is accessible only from
as her husband. the sea.
The chief’s dowry
to Protis and Gyptis Wine jars, bound for Greece
was the strip of from 1,000 BC onwards,
land on which were found in Les Calanques
near Marseille.
Marseille grew.

1,000,000 BC Earliest human presence in Provence at

Grotte de l’Observatoire in Monaco; use of bone as a tool
400,000 BC
Fire first used
in Nice 60,000 BC Neanderthal hunters on the Riviera

1,000,000 BC 5000 4500 4000 3500

30,000 BC Appearance of Homo sapiens (modern

man); cave painting at Grotte Cosquer 3,500 BC First
borie villages
Cave painting from
Grotte Cosquer
 the history of provence  43

Vallée des Merveilles

About 36,000 carvings date
Where to See Ancient
from 2,000 BC. Among them Provence
are strange, witch-like figures Many museums, such as the
known as orants. Musée Archéologique, Nîmes
(see p136), have excellent
collections of ancient artifacts.
The well-preserved bories in the
Luberon (see p173) illustrate early
village communities; the Grotte
de l’Observatoire in Monaco (see
p98) is an example of an even
The Vallée des more primitive settlement.
Merveilles carvings
suggest that nearby
Mont Bégo was a
focus for worship.

Borie Village at Gordes

These dry-stone dwellings (see
p173) have for centuries been
used by nomadic shepherds.
The Grotte de
l’Observatoire in
Monaco yielded
evidence of symbolic
human burials from
prehistoric times.

The “Fairy Stone”,

Péiro de la fado in
Provençal, is the only
true pre-historic Grotte de l’Observatoire
dolmen in Provence.
Skeletons uncovered here have
characteristics linking them with
southern African tribes.

Ancient Sites of Provence Standing Stone

Most sites lie along the coast, but there Prehistoric stelae, like this
are some pockets of settlement inland carved stone from the
near Tende, in the Luberon, and in the Luberon, are scattered
throughout Provence.
Vallée des Merveilles (see p101), which
stands at about 2,500 m (8,200 ft).

2,500–2,000 BC Carvings 380 BC Celtic

at Vallée des Merveilles invasions of
Hannibal crossing Provence
the Alps

3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 500 BC

600 BC Greek traders settle at

2,000 BC Tombs St-Blaise. Founding of Marseille
carved at Cordes
218 BC Hannibal passes through region to reach Italy
 44  introducing provence

Gallo-Roman Provence
the romans extended their empire into provence towards
the end of the 2nd century Bc. they enjoyed good relations
with the local people and within 100 years created a wealthy
province. nîmes and Arles became two of the most significant
roman towns outside italy; colonies at the Site Archéologique
de glanum and vaison-la-
v romaine flourished. Many fine
monuments remain and museums, for instance at vaison-la-
v
Pont Julien (3 BC)
romaine, display smaller roman treasures. This magnificently preserved
christ’s followers are reputed to have brought christianity triple-arched bridge stands
to the region when they landed at Les-Saintes-Maries-de-la- 8 km (5 miles) west of Apt.
Mer in Ad 40.
Two temples, dedicated to
the emperor Augustus and his
adopted sons, Caius and Lucius,
date from 20 BC.

Marble Sarcophagus (4th century)

The Alyscamps in Arles (see p150), once
a vast Roman necropolis, contains many
carved marble and stone coffins.

Triumphal Arch at Orange

Built in about 20 BC this is, in spite
of much crude restoration, one of
the best preserved Roman triumphal
Roman Glanum
The fortified gate is The impressive ruined site at Glanum
arches. Carvings depict the conquest thought to have been
of Gaul and sea battle scenes. built by Greeks, who reveals much earlier Roman and Greek
occupied Glanum from settlements. This reconstruction shows
the 4th century BC. it after it was rebuilt in AD 49 (see p145).

118 BC Provincia founded –

49 BC Emperor Julius Caesar lays siege to Marseille for
first Gallo-Roman Province
supporting his rival, Pompey. Romans rebuild Glanum
125 BC Roman legions
defend Marseille against 40 BC Vaison-la-Romaine ranks among 2nd-century BC
Celto-Ligurian invaders Consul Marius Roman Gaul’s wealthiest towns Venus d’Arles

100 BC AD 1 100

123 BC Romans make 102 BC Consul Marius 3 BC Pont Julien built AD 40 “Boat of Bethany” lands
Entremont first defeats invading German at Les-Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Provençal settlement tribes; over 200,000 killed
14 BC Emperor Augustus defeats Ligurians
in Alpes Maritimes. Trophy at La Turbie erected (see p93)
121 BC Foundation of Aquae Sextiae, later to become Aix-en-Provence
 the history of provence  45

Les-Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome Where to See Gallo-
and Mary Jacobe reputedly Roman Provence
sailed here in AD 40. The town
where they landed is Arles (see pp148–50) and Nîmes
named in their honour (see pp136–7), with their amphi-
and continues to attract theatres and religious and
pilgrims (see p142). secular buildings, offer the
most complete examples of
Roman civilization. Orange (see
p165) and Vaison-la-Romaine
(see p162) contain important
monuments, and the Pont du
Gard (see p135) and Le Trophée
d’Auguste (see p93) are unique.

Théâtre Antique d’Orange

Built into a hill, this Roman theatre
would have held up to 7,000
spectators (see pp166–7).

The baths occupied three

rooms, each used for
bathing at a different
temperature.
The Forum, the commercial centre
of the Roman town, was surrounded
by a covered gallery.
Cryptoportico
The foundations of Arles’ forum,
Jewellery from these horseshoe-shaped under-
Vaison-la-Romaine ground galleries were probably
1st-century AD jewellery used as grain stores (see p150).
was found in excavations
of the Roman necropolis.
Roman Flask
Well-preserved ancient
Roman glassware and
everyday items have
been found in many
areas of Provence.

476 Western Roman

Empire collapses
413 Visigoths seize Languedoc

200 300 400 500

300 Arles reaches

height of its prestige Abbaye St-Victor,
as a Roman town founded in AD 416,
in Marseille
46  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

Medieval Provence
With the fall of the Roman Empire, stability and relative
prosperity began to disappear. Although Provence became
part of the Holy Roman Empire, the local counts retained The Great Walls, finally
considerable autonomy and the towns became fiercely completed in 1300, 30 years
after Louis IX’s death, were over
independent. People withdrew to hilltops to protect themselves 1.6 km (1 mile) long and formed
from attack by a series of invaders, and villages perchés an almost perfect rectangle.
(see pp24–5) began to develop. Provence became a major base
for Christian Crusaders, intent on conquering
Muslim territories in Africa and Asia.

St-Trophime Carving
The monumental
12th-century portal at
St-Trophime in Arles
(see p148) is adorned
with intricate carvings
of saints and scenes from
the Last Judgment.

Louis IX’s army consisted

of 35,000 men plus horses
and military equipment.

Louis IX

St Martha and the

Tarasque
This 9th-century legend
proved the strength
of Christianity. The saint
is said to have lured the
Tarasque dragon to
its death, using
hymns and holy The Seventh Crusade
water (see p144). Hoping to drive the Muslims out of the Holy Land,
Louis IX (St Louis) of France set sail from his new
port, Aigues-Mortes (see pp138–9), in 1248. It was
a spectacular occasion, with banners waving and
his army singing hymns.

737–9 Anti-Frankish rebellions 949 Provence divided

in Avignon, Marseille and 855 Kingdom of Provence into four counties
Arles brutally suppressed created for Charles the Bald,
536 Provence ceded by Charles Martel grandson of Charlemagne
to the Franks

600 700 800 900

Battle between
the Crusaders 800 First wave of 924 Hungarians
and the Saracens Saracen invasions sack Nîmes

Charles the Bald

 THE HISTORY OF PROVENCE  47

Troubadour Ivory (c. 1300)

Where to See Medieval
The poetry of Provençal
troubadours tells how knights Provence
wooed virtuous women The highlights are undoubtedly
through patience, courtesy the Romanesque abbeys and
and skill. churches, especially the “three
sisters”: Silvacane (see p151), Le
Thoronet (see p112) and Sénanque
(see p168). Fortified villages
perchés, such as Gordes (see p173)
and the spectacular 11th-century
citadel at Les Baux-de-Provence
(see p146), testify to the unrest and
horrific violence that scarred this
period of Provence’s history.

Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir
Chapel At the top of a path
from Moustiers (see p190), the
chapel has a fine Romanesque
porch and nave.

Les Pénitents des Mées

These are said to be 6th-century
1500 ships set sail for the Holy
monks turned to stone for gazing
Land on 28 August 1248.
at Saracen women (see p185).

Silvacane Abbey (1175–1230)

St Christopher Fresco The Tour This beautiful, austere Cistercian
Ferrande in Pernes-les-Fontaines abbey was Provence’s last great
(see p168) contains religious Romanesque abbey.
frescoes from 1285. They are
among the oldest in France.

974 Saracens 1213 Battle of Muret: de Montfort defeats 1246 Charles of Anjou marries Béatrice, heiress
defeated at count of Toulouse and King of Aragon of Provence, to become Count of Provence
La Garde-Freinet
1209 French military leader Simon de 1248 Louis IX embarks on Seventh
Seal of Simon de Montfort Montfort marches on Provence Crusade from Aigues-Mortes

1000 1100 1200 1300

1032 Provence 1096–1099 1186 Counts of 1187 Remains of St Martha 1295 Death of Guiraut
becomes part of Holy First Crusade Provence declare discovered at Tarascon Riquier, the “Last Troubadour”
Roman Empire Aix their capital
1274 Papacy acquires 1280 Relics of Mary
1112 Raymond-Bérenger III, Count of 1125 Provence shared Comtat Venaissin Magdalene found at
Barcelona, marries the Duchess of Provence between Barcelona and Toulouse St-Maximin-la-Ste-Baume
 48  introducing provence

Papal Avignon
When the papacy temporarily abandoned war-torn italy, The Palais Vieux (1334–42), built by
Avignon became the centre of the roman catholic Benedict XII in typically austere
world. From 1309 until 1377 seven French popes ruled Cistercian style, is more of a fortress
than a church.
unchallenged. When a new italian pope, urban vi, was
elected, the French cardinals rebelled. in 1378 they chose
a rival pope, clement vii, thus causing a major schism Benedict XII’s cloister
that lasted until 1403. during the 14th century the
Grand Tinel
papal court in Avignon became a wealthy centre for
both learning and the arts, extending Consistory Hall
its influence across the region.

Papal Throne
The Pope’s Room in the Palais des Papes
contains copies of the original 14th-century
furniture, like this carved wooden throne.

Great Courtyard
Prophets Fresco (1344–5)
Matteo Giovanetti from Viterbo
was the principal fresco-master of
Clement VI. His realism contrasts
with earlier medieval artists.

Coin of Pope
1327 Petrarch first Innocent VI
catches sight of Laura
1316–34 Reign of John XXII of Avignon, his muse 1342–52 Reign of Clement VI 1352–62 Reign of
Innocent VI

1310 1320 1330 1340 1350

1309 Papacy
moves to Avignon 1334–42 Reign of 1348 Clement VI acquires Avignon
Benedict XII
1349 Jews take refuge in the Comtat
Pope John XXII Venaissin, part of the Papal lands
 THE HISToRY oF PRoVENCE  49

Death of Clement VI
Clement VI came to Avignon Where to see Papal
to “forget he was pope”. In Provence
1348 he bought the town for
80,000 florins and built the Avignon is surrounded by
splendid Palais Neuf. evidence of religious and
aristocratic splendour. With the
presence of the wealthy papacy –
a kind of miniature Vatican –
abbeys, churches and chapels
flourished. The Musée du Petit
Palais (see p172) in Avignon
contains examples of work by the
artists who were encouraged to
work at the papal court.
Pope’s Room
Stag Room Frescoes
The hunting scenes are a
reminder that monastic life
was not only about
learning and prayer.

Villeneuve Charterhouse
Innocent VI established this, the
oldest charterhouse in France, in
the 1350s (see p134).

Stag
Room

The Great Chapel,

covering 780 sq m
(8,400 sq ft), contains Châteauneuf-du-Pape
the restored papal altar. John XXII’s early 14th-century
castle became the popes’ second
residence. The keep and walls
The Palais Neuf was built still stand today (see p168).
by Clement VI in 1342–52.

Great Audience Hall

Petrarch (1304–74)
The great Renaissance
Palais Des Papes poet Petrarch considered
The maze of corridors and rooms in the papal Avignon to be
Palais des Papes (see p172), built over 18 years a “sewer” and a place
(1334–52), were richly decorated by skilled artists of corruption.
and craftsmen introduced from Italy. The
building’s scale is overwhelming.

1362–70 Reign of Urban V 1378–94 Reign of anti-

pope Clement VII 1394–1409 Reign of
1370–78 Reign of anti-pope Benedict XIII
Gregory XI

1360 1370 1380 1390 1400

1377 Papacy 1403

1363 Grimaldis returns to Rome Benedict
recapture XIII flees
Monaco Anti-Pope Avignon
Effigy of Urban V Benedict XIII
50  InTRodUCIng PRoVenCe

René and the Wars of Religion

The end of the 15th century saw the golden age of Aix-en-
Provence (see pp152–3), then Provence’s capital. Under the
patronage of King René, art and culture flourished and the
Flemish-influenced Avignon School was formed. After René’s
death, Provence was annexed by the French king, Louis XI.
Loss of independence and subsequent involvement with
French politics led to brutal invasions by Charles V. The
16th-century Wars of Religion between “heretic” Protestants
and Catholics resulted in a wave of massacres, and the
wholesale destruction of churches and their contents. Detail of the Triptych
René’s favourite château at
Tarascon (see p144) on the
Rhône is realistically painted.
King René, himself a poet,
painter and musician,
was a great influence on
Provençal culture.

Nostradamus
Born in St-Rémy
(see pp144–5),
the physician and
astrologer is best
known for his
predictions, The
Prophecies (1555).

Burning Bush Triptych

Nicolas Froment’s painting (1476) was
Massacres of Protestants and Catholics commissioned by King René. The star of the
The religious wars were brutal. Thousands of Cathédrale de St-Sauveur, Aix, it depicts a
Protestants were massacred in 1545, and 200 vision of the Virgin and Child surrounded
Catholics died in Nîmes in 1567. by the eternal Burning Bush of Moses.

1501 Parliament de Provence created

1434–80 Reign of 1486 Union of

Good King René Retable from Provence with
Avignon France

1425 1450 1475 1500

1481 Charles du Maine, Count of

Provence and René’s nephew, gives
King René Provence to King of France

1496 Military port built at Toulon

 the history of provence  51

The Annunciation
The Master of Aix, one Where to See 15th- and
of René’s artistic circle, 16th-century Provence
painted this Annunciation.
Dark symbolism, including Architecture from this period can
the owl’s wings of the be seen today in the fine town
angel Gabriel, undercuts houses and elegant streets of Aix
this usually joyful subject. (see pp152–3) and Avignon (see
pp170–2). The Musée Granet, also
in Aix, contains several interesting
examples of religious paintings.
A collection of period furniture is
exhibited in the Musée Grobet-
Labadié in Marseille (see p155).

The Bush, burning but unconsumed, was

a pagan and Christian symbol of eternal life.

Château at Tarascon
This 13th-century château (see
p144) was partly rebuilt by Louis
II of Anjou and then completed
by King René, his son.
Holy Roman Emperor,
Charles V, by Titian
Between 1524 and 1536,
Charles V (Charles I of
Spain) attacked Provence
frequently as part of his
war against France.

The saints John the

Evangelist, Catherine
of Alexandria and
Nicolas of Myra are
behind Queen Jeanne.

Rhinoceros Woodcut by Albrecht Dürer

In 1516, Marseille’s Château d’If (see p156) was
Queen Jeanne, René’s briefly home to the first rhinoceros to set
Moses is seen receiving the second wife, is shown foot in Europe. It was in transit as a gift for
word of God from an angel. kneeling in adoration. the Pope, but died later in the journey.

1525 Jews in Comtat 1577 First soap factory

Venaissin forced to in Marseille
wear yellow hats 1545 Massacre of 1598 Edict of Nantes
Protestants in signals end of Wars
Luberon villages of Religion

1525 1550 1575 1600

1562 Wars of Religion

1524 Invasion of commence Protestant
Charles V martyrdom
 52  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

Classical Provence
Provence in the 17th and 18th centuries saw a decrease in
regional allegiance and growth of national awareness. Towns
grew and majestic monuments, town houses (hôtels) and
châteaux proliferated. But despite economic development in Pavillon de Vendôme
the textile industry and the growth of the ports of Toulon and Jean-Claude Rambot made the
Marseille, the period was bleak for many, culminating in the Atlantes for this building (1667)
in Aix (see pp152–3).
devastating plague of 1720. The storming of the Bastille in
Paris in 1789 sparked popular uprisings and revolutionary
marches on Paris.
The death toll
was over 100,000
in the last plague
in Europe.

Boat-building in Toulon
Toulon, a strategic port, was famous
for its boat-building. Galley slaves,
chained to their oars, were a great
tourist attraction in the 17th century.

Corpses were
hauled in carts
to mass graves.

The Great Plague

Vue du Cours pendant la Peste by Michel
Serre depicts the 1720 plague in Marseille,
Santon Crib Scene brought by a cargo boat from Syria. Over
The santon (“little saints” in Provençal) cribs half of Marseille’s population died. All contact
were first made after the Revolution, when the with the city was banned and huge walls
churches were shut. They soon became a very were built to halt the epidemic, but it still
popular local craft. spread as far as Aix, Arles and Toulon.

1660 Louis XIV, the “Sun King”, Sun King 1707 English siege of
enters Marseille emblem Toulon fails

1622 Louis XIII visits 1696 France returns

Arles, Aix and Marseille Nice to Savoy

1600 1625 1650 1675 1700

1679 Vauban
starts work on 1707 Provence
1646 Jews confined 1666 Work begins new port invaded by
to ghettos, notably on the Canal du Midi at Toulon Eugène of Savoy
Louis XIII in Carpentras
1691 Nice occupied by the French
 THE HISTORY OF PROVENCE  53

Napoleon Seizes Toulon

Junior officer Napoleon Where to See Classical
Bonaparte first made his Provence
name when he took Toulon
from occupying English Avignon (see pp170–72) and Aix
troops in 1793. (see pp152–3) have period town
houses with fine doorways and
staircases. Jewish synagogues
and remains of Jewish enclaves
Cours Belsunce, built in can be found in Cavaillon (see p174),
1670 in the Italian style, Forcalquier (see p186) and Carpentras
was lined with trees and (see p168). The 18th-century Jardin
Baroque palaces.
de la Fontaine in Nîmes (see
pp136–7) can still be visited.

Monks, led by
the devout Jean
Belsunce, the Bishop
of Marseille, gave
succour to the dying.
Pharmacy at Carpentras
The 18th-century Hôtel-Dieu
(hospital) houses a chapel
and a pharmacy containing
faïence apothecary jars.

Marshal Sébastien Vauban

Louis XIV’s brilliant military
architect, Vauban, fortified
towns and ports including
Toulon and Antibes.

Fontaine du Cormoran
The best known of the 36
Moustiers Faïence fountains in Pernes-les-Fontaines
Brought to France from Italy in is the 18th-century carved
the 17th century, traditional Cormoran fountain.
faïence features pastoral scenes
in delicate colours.

1713 Treaty of Utrecht 1791 Avignon and Comtat Venaissin annexed to France
cedes Orange to France
1779 Roman mausoleum 1793 Breaking of siege of
1718 Nice becomes part at Aix demolished Toulon catapults Napoleon
of new Kingdom of Sardinia Bonaparte to fame

1725 1750 1775 1800

1720 Great Plague strikes Marseille 1771 Aix parliament 1787 Provençal silk
and spreads throughout Provence suppressed harvest fails
1792 Republicans adopt Rouget
1789 Storming of the Bastille, Paris; de Lisle’s army song: La Marseillaise
The Great Plague, Provençal peasants pillage local
Marseille châteaux and monasteries
 54  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

The Belle Époque

From the start of the 19th century, the beguiling climate,
particularly the mild winters, of coastal Provence attracted
foreign visitors, from invalids and artists to distinguished
royalty and courtesans. Railways, grand hotels, exotic gardens,
opulent villas and the chic promenade des Anglais in Nice
were built to meet their needs. Queen Victoria, the Aga Khan,
Homage à Mistral
King Leopold of Belgium and Empress Eugénie – Napoleon III’s Frédéric Mistral created the
wife and doyenne of Riviera royalty – all held court. Artists and Félibrige group in 1854 to
writers came in droves to revel in the light and freedom. preserve Provençal culture.

Printing in Marseille
Cheap labour, ample paper supplies
and good communications fostered
the development of printing.

Belle époque
é decor
featured gilt, ornate
chandeliers and marble.

High society included

famous courtesans as
well as their rich and
royal lovers.

Monte-Carlo Casino Interior

Grasse Perfume From being the poorest European state in 1850,
More modern methods Monaco boomed with the opening of the first
of cultivation and Monte-Carlo casino in 1856, as seen in Christian
distillation played an Bokelmann’s painting. The fashionable flocked to
important role in the enjoy the luxury and glamour, while fortunes were
expanding 19th-century won and lost (see pp96–8).
perfume-making industry.

1830 Beginnings of 1861 Monaco sells Roquebrune and Menton to France

tourism around Nice
1815 Napoleon 1860 Nice votes for union with France
lands at
Golfe-Juan 1859 Mistral publishes his epic poem, Mirèio

1800 1820 1840 1860

1839 Marseille-Sète
railroad begun. 1854 Founding of Félibrige, 1869 Opening of Suez
Birth of Cézanne the Provençal cultural school Canal brings trade
to Marseille; railway
Paul Cézanne extended to Nice
 THE HISTORY OF PROVENCE  55

Vineyard blight
Ravaged by phylloxera,
Where to See Belle
vines in Provence and Époque Provence
across France were Although many have been
replaced by resistant destroyed, villas and hotels built in
American root stocks. the extravagant belle époque
époque style
still survive on the Côte d’Azur. The
Négresco in Nice (see pp88–9) is
especially fine. Other period pieces
include the Cathédrale Orthodoxe
Russe, also in Nice, and, on St-Jean-
Cap-Ferrat, the Ephrussi de
Rothschild Villa and Gardens (see
pp90–91). In Beaulieu the Villa
Grecque Kérylos, Rotunda and gar-
dens are typical of the era (see p92).

Tourism
By the late 19th century, sun
and sea air were considered
beneficial to health.

InterContinental Carlton,
Cannes
Built in 1911, this ostentatious
Riviera landmark is still an
exclusive hotel (see p73).

Van Gogh’s Provence Monte-Carlo Opéra

Casino tables were
sometimes draped in black Van Gogh produced Charles Garnier designed
mourning when a gambler turbulent works in the this opera house (see pp96–7),
succeeded in breaking the Clinique St-Paul in St-Rémy as well as the Casino.
bank with a major win. (see pp144–5).

1879 Monte-Carlo
Opéra opens 1909 Earthquake centred on Rognes
in the Bouches-du-Rhône causes
Casino at widespread damage.
Monte-Carlo

1880 1900 1920

1904 Mistral wins

1888–90 Van Gogh Nobel prize for
works in Provence Literature for Mirèio
 56  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

Provence at War
After the economic drain caused by World War I, Tourism
Provence enjoyed increasing prosperity as the As swimming in
the sea and sun-
tourist industry boomed. While much of the bathing became
interior remained remote and rural, the vogue fashionable
for sea-bathing drew crowds to resorts such as pursuits, resorts
Cannes and Nice from the 1920s onwards. along the Riviera
attracted many
Provence continued to build on its image as a new visitors.
playground for the rich and famous, attracting In the 1930s
visitors from Noël Coward to Wallis Simpson. a nudist colony
The 1942–44 German occupation brought an opened on the
Ile du Levant.
end to the glamorous social life for many, and
some towns, including St-Tropez and Marseille,
were badly damaged by Germans and Allies.

Monaco Grand Prix

This race around the principality’s streets was
started on the initiative of Prince Louis II in
1929. It is still one of the most colourful and
dangerous Formula 1 races.

Precious ammunition and arms

were dropped from Allied planes
or captured from the Nazis.

La Résistance
Antoine de Saint-Exupéry After 1942 the Résistance (or maquis after the
France’s legendary writer-pilot scrubland that made a good hiding place) was
disappeared on 31 July 1944 active in Provence. The fighters were successful in
while on a reconnaissance Marseille and in preparing the coastal areas for
flight (see p33). the 1944 Allied invasion.

1930 Novelist D H
1925 Coco Chanel Lawrence dies in Vence
arrives on the Riviera

Coco Chanel

1920 1925 1930

1930 Pagnol
begins filming
1924 Scott and Zelda Marius, Fanny
Fitzgerald spend a year 1928 Camargue and César trilogy
F Scott on the Riviera National Park created in Marseille
Fitzgerald
 THE HISTORY OF PROVENCE  57

Where to See 1920s to

1940s Provence
The now slightly seedy suburbs
of Hyères (see p119) retain
evidence of graceful living after
World War I. Toulon harbour’s
bristling warships (see pp116–17)
are a reminder of the French
navy’s former power. The
activities of the Résistance are
well documented in the Musée
Marcel Pagnol (1905–74) d’Histoire 1939–45 in Fontaine-
Pagnol immortalized Provence and its inhabitants in his de-Vaucluse (see p169).
plays, novels and films, depicting a simple, rural life (see p33).

Many who joined the Résistance had

scarcely left school. Training was often
only by experience.

Les Deux Garçons, Aix

This still chic café was frequented
by Winston Churchill and Jean
Allied Landings Cocteau among others (see
On 14 August 1944, Allied pp152–3).
troops bombarded the coast
between Toulon and Marseille
and soon gained ground.

La Citadelle, Sisteron
Marseille Exhibition Rebuilt after the Allied bombing
The 1922 exhibition was in 1944, the impressive citadel
an invitation to enjoy has displays on its turbulent
the cosmopolitan delights history (see p182).
of Marseille.

1942 Nazis invade southern France; French 1943 Maquis

fleet scuttled in Toulon harbour resistance cells
formed

1940 Italians occupy Menton

1935 1940

1939 Cannes Film Festival inaugurated, 1944 American and French

but first festival delayed by war troops land near St-Tropez;
liberation of Marseille
Liberation of Marseille
 58  INTRODUCING PROVENCE

Post-War Provence
Paid holidays, post-war optimism, and the
St-Tropez sun cult all made the Riviera the magnet
it has remained for holiday-makers. The region still
offers a rich variety of produce – olive oil, wine, fruit,
flowers and perfume – though industry, especially
in the high-tech sector, grows apace. The environment
has suffered from over-development, pollution and Port-Grimaud
forest fires. The 1960s saw massive North African The successful “Provençal Venice”,
immigration, and today unemployment creates a car-free leisure port, was built by
racial and political tension. François Spoerry in 1966 in regional
village style (see p127).

Bus Stop by Philippe Starck

The modern architecture of
Nîmes typifies many bold
projects in the region.

Fires
The devastating forest
Beach at Nice fires that ravage the
Though many are pebbly, the region are fought by
Riviera beaches still attract planes that scoop up
dedicated sun-worshippers. sea water.

1956 Grace Kelly marries 1962 Lower Durance engineered to Picasso

1946 Picasso Monaco’s Prince Rainier III develop hydro-electric power
starts painting 1952 Le 1961 Art 1970 Sophia-Antipolis 1977 First section of
in the Grimaldi Corbusier’s Cité festival of new technology park Marseille underground
Castle, Antibes Radieuse built Ecole de Nice opens near Antibes railway opened

1940 1950 1960 1970 1980

1954 Matisse dies 1970 Autoroute du 1973 Picasso dies at Mougins

Soleil completed
1956 Roger Vadim films And God Created 1971 The “French Connection”
Woman, starring Brigitte Bardot, in St-Tropez drug ring is exposed
1962 Algerian Independence – French 1982 Princess Grace is
1959 Floods in Fréjus North Africans (pieds-noirs) settle in Provence killed in car accident
 THE HISTORY OF PROVENCE  59

Winter Sports
Skiing has become Where to See
increasingly popular Modern Provence
(see p100). Isola 2000,
near Nice, a purpose- Some of the most striking modern
built, futuristic resort, architecture includes Le Corbusier’s
was built in 1971. Cité Radieuse in Marseille (see
p156), the Musée d’Art Moderne
et d’Art Contemporain in Nice
(see p89) and the Norman Foster-
designed Carré d’Art in Nîmes
(see p136). Large-scale rebuilding
programmes in towns such as
Colombe d’Or café Marseille (see pp154–6), St-Tropez
Once an artists’ haunt, this is (see pp122–6) and Ste-Maxime
now one of St-Paul de Vence’s (see p127) have concentrated
chic celebrity venues (see p79). on new buildings that blend
well with the existing ones.

St-Tropez
Successful post-war restoration
means it is often difficult to tell
new buildings from old.

Cannes Film Brigitte Bardot Kim Novak

Festival
First held in 1946, the festival (see p72) has become the
world’s annual film event, a glamorous jamboree of Fondation Maeght
directors, stars and aspiring starlets. And God Created The building reflects the modern
Woman, starring Brigitte Bardot, became a succès de use of traditional Provençal style
scandale in 1956. and materials (see pp80–81).

1998 Jacques Médecin 2001 TGV Méditerranée link with Paris launched Prince Albert II
dies in Uruguay, self-exiled
after a year in jail in France 2005 Prince Rainier III dies 2013 EU designates
and is succeeded by his Marseille as European
1992 Floods in only son, Prince Albert II Capital of Culture
Vaison-la-Romaine

1990 2000 2010 2020

2002 Euro replaces TGV 2016 Terrorist attack in Nice on

Franc as legal tender train Bastille Day claims 86 lives

1990 Jacques Médecin, Mayor of Nice, 2011 Prince Albert II marries Charlene Wittstock
flees to Uruguay to avoid trial for
corruption and tax arrears 2009 J M G Le Clézio wins the Nobel Prize for Literature
 Provence
AreA
A by AreA

Provence at a Glance 62–63

The Riviera and the Alpes
Maritimes 64–103
The Var and the Iles
d’Hyères 104–129
Bouches-du-Rhône
and Nîmes 130–157
Vaucluse 158–177
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence 178–191
62  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Provence at a Glance
From natural wonders and historic architecture to the
cream of modern art, Provence is a region with something
for everyone. Even the most ardent sun-worshipper will be
tempted into the cool shade of its treasure-filled museums
and churches. Visitors who come in the footsteps of the
world’s greatest artists will be equally dazzled by the
wild beauty of the Gorges du Verdon and the Camargue.
In a region packed with delights, those shown here
are among the very best.

Papal Avignon’s medieval architectural

splendour (see pp170–71)

Orange

Carpentras

VAUCLUSE
Avignon

Nîmes Manosque
Cavaillon

The beautifully preserved Roman theatre

at Orange (see pp166–7)
Pertuis
Arles
Salon de
Provence

BOUCHES-DU-RHONE
AND NIMES Aix-en-Provence

Martigues

Marseille Aubagne

Wildlife in its natural habitat in the

Camargue (see pp140–41)

0 kilometres 25
The massive basilica of St-Maximin-la-Ste-Baume, housing relics of
0 miles 25 St Mary Magdalene (see pp114–15)
The stunning town of Moustiers-Ste-Marie, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
 P R O V E N C E At A g l A N C E  63

Outstanding modern
art at the Fondation
Maeght, St-Paul
de Vence
(see pp80–81)

Musée Matisse, in the artist’s

beloved Nice (see pp86–7)

Barcelonnette

ALPES-DE-HAUTE-
Sisteron PROVENCE

THE RIVIERA AND THE

Digne-les-Bains
ALPES MARITIMES

Entrevaux

Castellane
Riez

Menton
Monaco
Nice
Grasse
Antibes

Draguignan Cannes
THE VAR AND THE
ILES D’HYERES
Fréjus
Brignoles St-Raphaël

St-Tropez

Toulon
Le Lavandou
Hyères

The dramatic Gorges du Verdon

Iles d'Hyères (see pp188–9)

Unspoiled and
tranquil, the Iles
d’Hyères (see St-Tropez’s Musée de l’Annonciade, displaying its art
pp118–19) collection in a former chapel (see pp124–5)
 PROVENCE AREA BY AREA  65

The RivieRa
Ra and
R
The alpes MaRiTiMes
The French Riviera is, without doubt, the most celebrated
seaside in Europe. Just about everybody who has been
anybody for the past 100 years has succumbed to its
glittering allure. This is the holiday playground of
kings and courtesans, movie stars and millionaires,
where the seriously rich never stand out in the crowd.

There is a continual complaint that the scenery of its shores and the rich
Riviera is not what it used to be, that the environment of hill villages like St-Paul
Cannes Film Festival is mere hype, that de Vence. This village has echoed to the
grand old Monte-Carlo has lost all sense of voices of such luminaries as Bonnard and
taste and that Nice isn’t worth the trouble Modigliani, F Scott Fitzgerald and Greta
of finding a parking space. But look at the Garbo. Today, its galleries still spill canvases
boats in Antibes harbour, glimpse a villa on to its medieval lanes.
or two on Cap Martin, or observe the The Alpes Maritimes, which incorporates
baubles on the guests at the Hôtel de Paris the principality of Monaco, is renowned
in Monte-Carlo; money and class still rule. for its temperate winter climate. The
The Riviera is not just a millionaire’s abundance of flowers here attracted the
watering hole: a diversity of talent has perfume industry and the English – who
visited, seeking patrons and taking advan- created some of the finest gardens on the
tage of the luminous Mediterranean light. coast. Inland, the mountainous areas of
This coast is irrevocably linked with the life Provence offer a range of skiing activities
and works of Matisse and Picasso, Chagall, in superb mountain scenery, and a chance
Cocteau and Renoir. It lent them the to try traditional Alpine food.

Relaxing on the promenade des Anglais, Nice

Cannes Old Town, known locally as Le Suquet, overlooking the harbour
66  PROVeNCe AReA by AReA

Exploring the Riviera and the Alpes Maritimes

The rocky heights of the pre-Alps lie in tiers, running
east to west and tumbling down to the Riviera’s
dramatic, Corniche-hemmed coast. On bluffs and
pinnacles, towns and villages keep a watchful eye on
the distant blue sea. Towards the Italian border, the
Alpine ridges run from north to south, cut by torrents Saint-Étienne-
and gorges which provide snowy winter slopes for de-Tinée

skiers. Much of the higher ground is occupied by the Auron

Parc National du Mercantour (see p101), home of the
ibex and the chamoix. Its jewel is the prehistoric Entraunes
Vallée des Merveilles, less than two hours from the

V ar
LE
contrasting bustle of the Riviera. PA
RC

Getting Around Valberg

Beuil
The A8 from Italy runs inland, Guillaumes
parallel to the coast. Between

G O R GE S DU
this highway and the sea, from
Nice to Menton, are three
corniches. The Grande
Corniche follows the Roman
road, Julia Augusta, via La

C IAN S
Turbie. The Moyenne Corniche
passes through Eze, and the PUGET-
Corniche Inférieure visits all THÉNIERS
Touët-
coastal resorts. The inland Digne-les- sur-Var
roads are narrow and winding, Bains
so allow more time for your
journey. Grasse and Cannes are
linked by a regular bus service, Roquesteron

and bikes can be hired at some

railway stations. Other bus links Expensive yachts in the
are also good. The largest colourful harbour at Antibes
airport in the region and Mont Cheiron
second busiest in France, is Sisteron
at Nice, west of the city. Le Logis-
du-Pin
Lo u
p

Sights at a Glance
1 Gorges du Cians GOURDON
o Villefranche-sur-Mer
St-Vallier-
2 Puget-Théniers p Beaulieu-sur-Mer de-Thiey
3 St-Cézaire-sur-Siagne a Eze
GRASSE
4 Gourdon s La Turbie Grottes de
St-Cézaire
5 Grasse d Monaco pp94–8
ST-CÉZAIRE-
6 Mougins f Peillon SUR-SIAGNE
7 Cannes pp72–3 g Peille
8 Iles de Lérins pp74–5 h Lucéram MOUGINS
9 Juan-les-Pins j Vallée de la Vésubie
0 Antibes k Forêt de Turini
q Vallauris l Parc National du
w Biot Mercantour
CANNES
e Villeneuve-Loubet z Tende Draguignan
r Vence x Saorge La
Napoule
t St-Paul de Vence c Sospel
y Cagnes-sur-Mer v Gorbio 0 kilometres 10
u Nice pp84–9 b Roquebrune-Cap-Martin 0 miles 10
i St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat n Menton

For additional map symbols see back flap

 the riviera and the alpes maritimes  67

Isola 2000 View from Roquebrune towards Nice

Isola

i
r

e
N AT

Réf
IONA
L DU MERCANT
OUR
Vallé eilles
Merv

TENDE
e de

Saint-Sauveur- Saint-Martin- St-Dalmas

sur-Tinée Vésubie
s

Roquebillière
Roy

Pointe de
Tinee

Trois-Communes
l'Authion SAORGE
IE
SUB

FORÊT
INI
VÉ

DE TUR
Breil-sur-Roya
Lantosque
LA

Villars-
sur-Var Peïra-Cava
St-Jean-
DE

la-Rivière
Ventimiglia
ÉE

LUCÉRAM
LL

SOSPEL
VA

Plan-du-Var

E st e r o n Escarène

PEILLE San
Ste- Remo
Agnes
GORBIO
PEILLON MENTON
r

ROQUEBRUNE-
Va

LA TURBIE CAP-MARTIN
BEAULIEU-
SUR-MER MONACO
EZE
VENCE
ST-PAUL NICE VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER
DE VENCE CAGNES-
SUR-MER ST-JEAN-
VILLENEUVE- CAP-FERRAT
LOUBET
Cros-de-Cagnes
BIOT
Key

ANTIBES Motorway
Major road
VALLAURIS
Secondary road
Golfe- JUAN-LES-PINS
Juan Minor road
Cap d'Antibes
Scenic route
Main railway
ILES DE LÉRINS
Minor railway
International border
Regional border The sunshine and relaxing atmosphere
Summit of a café in Nice
68  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

2 Puget-Théniers Paris Commune in 1871. A year

later he was imprisoned for life
Road map E3. * 1,920. £ n RD
6202 (04 93 05 05 05). Closed Oct– and served seven years, having
Mar. ∑ [Link] already spent 30 years in jail.

This attractive village lies at the

foot of a rocky peak, nestling at 3 St-Cézaire-
the confluence of the Roudoule sur-Siagne
and the Var beneath the ruins of Road map E3. * 3,850.
a château that belonged to the n 3 rue de la République
Grimaldi family (see pp82–3). The (04 93 60 84 30). ( Tue & Sat.
old town has some fine medieval ∑ [Link]
houses with overhanging roofs,
but the chief attraction is the Dominating the steep-sided
13th-century parish church Siagne valley, St-Cézaire has
Notre-Dame de l’Assomption. been inhabited since pre-Roman
The delightful altarpiece, Notre- times. The walls and gates of
Impressive upstream view of the upper Dame de Bon Secours (1525), the village are reminders
Gorges du Cians is by Antoine Ronzen. of its feudal past. At its heart
Inside the entrance, the is the 13th-century Eglise
1 Gorges du Cians altarpiece of the Passion Paroissiale Notre-Dame
Road map E3. k Nice. £ Nice,
(1520–25) – the de Sardaigne, which houses
Touët-sur-Var, Valberg. n Pl Charles masterpiece of the a Gallo-Roman tomb dis-
Ginésy, Valberg (04 93 23 24 25). church – is by Flemish covered nearby – a fine
craftsmen, working with example of Provençal
Among the finest natural sights the architect and sculptor Romanesque design.
in the region, these gorges are Matthieu d’Anvers. From the medieval part
a startling combination of deep Beside the main road, of the village, there is a
red slate and vivid mountain the statue of a woman magnificent viewpoint.
greenery. They follow the course with her hands tied To the northeast of the
of the river Cians, which drops is called L’Action village are the Grottes
1,600 m (5,250 ft) in 25 km Enchaînée, by Aristide de St-Cézaire-sur-
(15 miles) from Beuil to Touët- Maillol (1861–1944). Siagne – iron-rich
sur-Var. At Touët, through a grille It commemorates L’Action Enchaînée, in caves filled with
in the floor of the church nave, the local revolution- Puget-Théniers square beautiful rock
you can see the torrent below. ary, Louis-Auguste crystallization.
Approaching from the lower Blanqui. He was born in the Dramatic stalactites and
gorges, olives give way to town hall in 1805 and became stalagmites have formed on
scrubland. It is not until Pra one of the socialist heroes of the the cave ceilings and floors,
d’Astier that the gorges become
steep and narrow: at their
narrowest, the rock walls entirely
obliterate the sky. Higher still
up the gorge, you may spot
saffron lilies in June.
At the upper end of the
gorges, overlooking the Vallée
du Cians, is the 1,430-m (4,770-ft)
eyrie of Beuil. Now a military
sports centre, it was first fortified
by the counts of Beuil, members
of the aristocratic Grimaldi
family (see pp82–3). They lived
here until 1621, despite staff
revolt: one count had his throat
cut by his barber and another
was stabbed by his valet. The
last, Hannibal Grimaldi, was
tied to a chair and strangled by
two Muslim slaves. Stones from
their château were used to build
the Renaissance chapel of the
White Penitents in the 1687
Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste. Antoine Ronzen’s altarpiece Notre-Dame de Bon Secours (1525), Puget-Théniers
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  69

creating enchanting shapes,

reminiscent of flowers, animals
and toadstools. If touched, the
stalactites become remarkably
resonant, but leave this to
the guide. Red oxide in the
limestone gives a rich colour to
the caves’ chambers: the Fairies’
Alcove, Great Hall, Hall of
Draperies and Organ Chamber,
all connected by narrow
underground passages, one
of which ends abruptly, 40 m
(130 ft) below ground, at the
edge of an abyss.

} Grottes de St-Cézaire-
sur-Siagne The village of Gourdon, on the edge of a rocky cliff
1481 route des Grottes. Tel 04 93 60
22 35. Open Feb–mid-Nov: daily. 4 Gourdon fortress. Its vaulted rooms
& 8 obligatory. 0 = are remnants of Saracen
∑ [Link] Road map E3. * 421.
n 1 pl Victoria (08 11 81 10 67). occupation. The terrace gardens
∑ [Link] were laid out by André Le Nôtre
when the château was restored
For centuries, villages were in the 17th century. There are
built on hilltops, surrounded three distinct gardens – the
by ramparts. Gourdon is a Jardin à l’Italienne, the Jardin de
typical village perché (see Rocaille (or Provençal Gardens)
pp24–5), its shops filled with and the Jardin de l’Apothicaire
regional produce, perfume and with its own centrally located
local art. From the square at sundial. Although the château
its precipitous edge, there is is still privately owned and
a spectacular view of the Loup not open to the public, visitors
valley and the sea with Antibes can take a guided tour of the
and Cap Roux in the distance. gardens in groups during the
There are good views, summer months.
too, from the gardens of the
Château de Gourdon, built E Château de Gourdon
in the 12th century by the Tel 04 93 09 68 02. Open by
seigneurs du Bar, overlords of reservation for groups of 10 or more.
Inside the remarkable Grottes de Gourdon, on the foundations & 8 May–Aug: call ahead to check
St-Cézaire-sur-Siagne of what was once a Saracen for times. ∑ [Link]

Journey in the Gorges du Loup

The village of Gourdon is on the edge of the
Gorges du Loup, the most accessible of many
dramatic gorges running down to the coast. The
route up to the Gorges du Loup begins at Pré-du-
Loup, just east of Grasse, and leads to Gourdon.
From Gourdon, the D3 goes up into the gorge
and offers the best views, turning back down the
D6 after 6.5 km (4 miles).
Descending on the left bank, the road passes
the great pothole of Saut du Loup and the Cascades
des Demoiselles, where the river’s lime carbonate
content has partly solidified the vegetation. Just
beyond is the 40-m (130-ft) Cascade de Courmes,
which has a treacherously slippery stairway under it.
The D2210 continues to Vence, passing via
Tourrettes-sur-Loup, an art and craft centre on a
high plateau. The 15th-century church has a triptych
by the Bréa School and a 1st-century altar dedicated
to the Roman god Mercury. The 40-m (130-ft) Cascade de Courmes
70  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

5 Grasse living with his wife in a house

Road map E3. * 52,000. @ n Pl de
opposite the Chapelle de
la Buanderie (04 93 36 66 66). ( Sat. Notre-Dame-de-Vie. This priory
∑ [Link] house, sitting at the end of
an alley of cypresses, is now
Once known for its leather privately owned and closed
tanning industry, Grasse became to the public.
a perfume centre in the 16th Mougins is also one of the
century. The tanneries have smartest places in France to
vanished, but three major eat. Among its many high-
perfume houses are still here. class restaurants, is stylish
Today, perfume is mainly made gastronomic restaurant La
from imported flowers, but Place de Mougins (see p209).
each year, Grasse holds a The Musée de la Photographie
Jasmine festival (see p37). has a fine permanent collection
The best place to discover the of Picasso’s photographs. The
history of perfume is the Musée Exterior of the Musée International de la eclectic collection at the Musée
International de la Parfumerie, Parfumerie in Grasse d’Art Classique de Mougins
which has a garden of fragrant includes Roman, Greek and
plants. It also displays bergamotes, Egyptian art alongside pieces
decorated scented papier- 6 Mougins by Picasso, Cézanne, Andy
mâché boxes. At Molinard there Road map E3. * 18,200. @ n 39
Warhol and Damien Hirst.
is also a museum and visitors place des Patriotes (04 92 92 14 00). There are also interesting
can create their own perfume. ∑ [Link] displays of jewellery and Greek
Grasse became fashionable war helmets and armour.
after 1807–8 when Princess This old hilltop town (see
Pauline Bonaparte recuperated pp24–5), huddled inside E Musée de la Photographie
here. Queen Victoria often the remains of 15th-century Porte Sarrazine. Tel 04 93 75 85 67.
wintered at the Grand Hotel. ramparts and fortified Saracen Open daily. Closed Jan, 25 Dec.
Artist Jean-Honoré Fragonard Gate, is one of the finest in E Musée d’Art Classique
(1732–1806) was born here and the region. Mougins is a smart de Mougins
the walls of the Villa-Musée address: it has been used by 32 rue Commandeur. Tel 04 93
Fragonard are covered with his royalty and film stars, while 75 18 65. Open daily. Closed 25 Dec.
son’s murals. The artist’s Washing Picasso spent his final years & ∑ [Link]
of the Feet hangs in the 12th-
century Ancienne Cathédrale
Notre-Dame-du-Puy, in the old
town. The cathedral also houses
three works by Rubens. The
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de
Provence has Moustiers ware.
18th–19th century Provençal
costumes and jewellery can be
seen at the Musée Provençal
du Costume et du Bijou.

E Musée International de
la Parfumerie
2 blvd du Jeu de Ballon. Tel 04 97 05
58 11. Open daily. Closed public hols.
& 7 = ∑ [Link]

E Molinard
60 blvd Victor Hugo. Tel 04 93 36
01 62. Open daily. Closed 1 Jan,
25 Dec. & ∑ [Link]
E Villa-Musée Fragonard
23 blvd Fragonard. Tel 04 97 05 58 00.
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. & 8 by appt. =
E Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
de Provence
2 rue Mirabeau. Tel 04 97 05 58 00.
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. & 8 by appt. = Jacques-Henri and Florette Lartigue, Musée de la Photographie, Mougins
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  71

The Perfumes of Provence

For the past 400 years, the town of Grasse has been the centre of the perfume
industry. Before that it was a tannery town, but in the 16th century, Italian
immigrant glove-makers began to use the scents of local flowers to perfume
soft leather gloves, a fashion made popular by the Queen, Catherine de’ Médici.
Enormous acres of lavender, roses, jonquils, jasmine and aromatic herbs were
cultivated. Today, cheaper imports of flowers and high land prices mean that Grasse
focuses on the creation of scent. The power of perfume is evoked in Patrick Süskind’s
disturbing novel, Perfume, set partly in Grasse, in which the murderous perfumer
exploits his knowledge of perfume extraction to grisly effect.

Creating a Perfume
Essences are extracted by
various methods, including
distillation by steam or
volatile solvents, which
separate the essential oils.
Enfleurage is a costly and
lengthy method for delicate
flowers such as jasmine
and violet. The blossoms
are layered with lard which
becomes impregnated
Picking early morning jasmine Jasmine being processed with scent.

Steam distillation is one of the

oldest extraction processes
originally developed by
the Arabs. It is now used
mainly for flowers such as
orange blossom. Flowers and
water are boiled together in a
still and the essential oils are
extracted by steam in an
essencier, or oil decanter.

The best perfumes are created

by a perfumer known as a “nose”
who possesses an exceptional
sense of smell. The nose
harmonizes fragrances rather
Vast quantities of blossoms like a musician, blending as
are required to create the many as 300 essences for a
essence or “absolut” perfume perfume. Today, scents can
concentrate. For example, be synthesized by using “head-
almost a ton of jasmine flowers space analysis” which analyzes
are needed to obtain just one the components of the air
litre of jasmine essence. above a flower.
72  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

7 Cannes 15 giant murals inspired by the

Seventh Art, which can be found
Lord Brougham, British Lord Chancellor, put Cannes on the map at various locations across town.
in 1834 when he stopped there on his way to Nice. He was The main hotels in Cannes
so entranced by the climate of what was then a tiny fishing have their own beaches with
village that he built a villa and started a trend for upper-class bars and restaurants, where
prices match their standing.
English visitors. Today, Cannes may not attract blue blood but Celebrities are most likely to
it has become a town of festivals, the resort of the rich and be seen at the Carlton, Majestic
famous. It is busy all year round, its image reinforced by the and Martinez. There is a cover
Film Festival (see p36). With its casinos, fairs, beach, boat and charge to enter most beaches
street life, there is plenty to do, even though Cannes lacks the in Cannes, where imported sand
covers the natural pebbles, and
great museums and monuments of less glamorous resorts.
sun-loungers cost extra. Just
next to the festival building
and cheese. This leads you to the there is also a free public beach.
Marché Forville. Fresh regional
produce turns up here every P Palais des Festivals et
day except Monday. The small des Congrès
streets meander up from the 1 blvd de la Croisette. Tel 04 92
marché to the old Roman town 99 84 00. n 04 92 99 84 22.
of Canoïs Castrum. This area ∑ [Link]
was named after the reeds that Built in 1982, this unmistakably
grew by the seashore, and is modern building stands beside
now known as Le Suquet. The the Vieux Port at the west end
Provençal Gothic church in the of the promenade. It is the chief
centre of the old town, Notre- venue for the Palmes d’Or and
Dame de l’Espérance, was other internationally recognised
completed in 1648. awards sufficiently prestigious for
The Cannes Film Festival has the film business to take them
Relaxing deck chairs on the seafront, been held here every May since seriously, and much business
Hôtel Martinez 1946. The main venue is the goes on, so that the festival is not
Palais des Festivals, all hype and publicity.
Exploring Cannes but there are cinemas Some 78,000 official
The heart of the city is built all over town, some tickets are distributed
around the Bay of Cannes and of which are open to to professionals only.
the palm-fringed seafront boule- the public, and film Apart from its use for
vard de la Croisette. Here there screening starts as the great Film Festival,
are luxury boutiques and hotels early as 8:30am. The the building also
and fine views of La Napoule beach has been a focus houses a casino and
Bay and the Esterel heights. The for paparazzi since a nightclub, and is
eastern end of the bay curves 1953, when Brigitte a regular conference
out to Pointe de la Croisette, Bardot’s beautiful Famous handprint venue. In the nearby
where the medieval Fort de pout put her on the of Faye Dunaway allée des Stars, hand-
la Croix once stood. The town’s world’s front pages. prints of such famous
two gaming houses, Casino Les The city’s connection to celebrities as American actress
Princes and Casino Croisette, cinema is also highlighted by Faye Dunaway are immortalized
are both open all year. the Murs peints de Cannes, in pavement cement.
Brougham persuaded King
Louis-Philippe to donate two
million francs to build the Cannes
harbour wall. Between La Pantiero
and rue Félix Faure are the allées
de la Liberté. Shaded by plane
trees and surveyed by a statue
of Lord Brougham, this open
space is ideal both for boules
and the colourful morning
flower market. It provides a fine
view of the harbour, which is
filled with pleasure craft and
fishing boats. Behind the allées
is the rue Meynadier, where you
can buy delicious pasta, bread Cannes Old Town, known locally as Le Suquet, overlooking the harbour
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  73

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Road map E4. * 74,600. n 1
blvd de la Croisette (04 92 99 84 22).
( Tue–Sun. _ Film Festival (May).
∑ [Link]

Transport
£ rue Jean-Jaurès.
@ pl de l’Hôtel de Ville.

E Musée de la Castre
Château de la Castre, Le Suquet.
Tel 04 93 38 55 26. Open Tue–Sun
(Jul–Aug: daily). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
InterContinental Carlton, the height of luxury at Cannes 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec. & 8 by appt.
The old Cannes castle, erected
P InterContinental Carlton is studded with tiny balconies, by the Lérins monks in the
58 la Croisette. Tel 04 93 06 40 06. and the window frames, 11th and 12th centuries,
∑ [Link] See Where cornices and attic pediments houses this museum. Set
to Stay p198. are decorated with stucco. The up in 1877, it contains some
This ultimate symbol of comfort hotel’s twin black cupolas are fine archaeological and
and grace contains 343 rooms and said to be modelled on the ethnographical collections
39 suites, and has its own private breasts of the notorious Belle from all over the world,
sandy beach. It was designed and Otéro, a Spanish courtesan and ranging from South Sea Island
built in 1911 by the architect, dancer who captivated Dalmas. costumes to Asian art and
Charles Dalmas. The huge The Carlton was so revered African masks. Also housed in
Rococo-style dining room, where that in World War II, a New the Cistercian St-Anne chapel
the colonnades rise to an ornate York Times journalist asked is a collection of superb
ceiling with finely wrought a commanding officer to musical instruments. The
cornices, is unchanged. The protect what he considered 11th-century Tour de la Castre
hotel’s wedding-cake exterior to be the world’s finest hotel. is worth climbing for the view.

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Key to Symbols see back flap
74  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

8 Iles de Lérins
Although only a 15-minute boat ride from the glitter of
Cannes, the Iles de Lérins reflect a contrasting lifestyle,
with their forests of eucalyptus and umbrella pine and
their tiny chapels. The two islands, separated only by
a narrow strait, were once the most powerful religious
centres in the south of France. St-Honorat is named after
the Gallo-Roman, Honoratus, who visited the smaller
island at the end of the 4th century and founded . Fort Ste-Marguerite
a monastery. Some believe that Ste-Marguerite was Built under Richelieu and
named after his sister, who set up a nunnery there. Its strengthened by Vauban in 1712, its
ground floor has a maritime museum.
fort is well known as the prison of the mysterious 17th-
century Man in the Iron Mask, who spent 11 years here.

Ile Ste-Marguerite Port for ferries to and

from Cannes

Etang du Batéguier

Allée des
Eucalyptus
Chapelle St-Michel
Ile St-Honorat

Chapelle
St-Sauveur

St Honorat et les Saints Chapelle St-Caprais

de Lérins St Honorat was the disciple
This icon of St Honorat can be of St Caprais during his first
found in the Abbaye de Lérins. visit to Provence.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  75

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Road map E4. Fort Ste-Marguerite/
Musée de la Mer: Tel 04 93 38
55 26. Open daily (Oct–May: Tue–
Sun). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 &
The Man in the 11 Nov, 25 Dec. & Monastère
Iron Mask Fortifié & Abbaye de Lérins:
The mystery man was Tel 04 92 99 54 00. Open daily.
∑ [Link]
imprisoned in Fort Royal
from 1687 to 1698, then Transport
Remains on Ste-Marguerite
moved to the Bastille, 4 Cannes: quai Laubeuf for Ste-
Excavations on the coast near the fort have
where he died in 1703. Marguerite (04 92 98 71 36, 04 92
revealed houses, mosaics, wall paintings
and ceramics which date back to around 98 71 30 & 04 92 98 71 31); for
the 3rd century BC. St-Honorat (04 92 98 71 38).

Allée du
Grand Jardin Route de la Convention
Both the islands have many paths
leading through the densely wooded
interior as well as round the coast.

Chapelle St-Cyprien

La Chapelle de
la Trinité

Abbaye de Lérins
. Monastère The old church and monks’
Fortifié quarters were incorporated
Built in 1073 by in the 19th-century building.
Abbot Aldebert, to
protect the monks
from Saracen pirates,
this “keep” gives views
as far as Esterel. Some
rooms may be closed
due to restoration 0 metres 1000
work, check
before visiting. 0 yards 1000
76  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

9 Juan-les-Pins
Road map E4. * 76,770. £ @
n Palais des Congres, 60 chemin
des Sables (04 22 10 60 01).
∑ [Link]

To the east of Cannes is the

hammerhead peninsula of Cap
d’Antibes, a promontory of pines
and coves where millionaires’
mansions grow. Just next door
is one of the finest beaches in
the area tucked in the west side
of the cape in Golfe-Juan, where
Napoleon came ashore from Elba Spectacular pleasure yachts in Antibes harbour
in 1815. This is a 20th-century
resort, promoted by American cours Masséna. The town’s high q Vallauris
railroad heir Frank Jay Gould, points include the 12th-century
Road map E3. * 31,000. @ n 67
who attracted high society towers of the church and Grimaldi ave George Clemenceau (04 93 63 82 58)
in the 1920s and 1930s when castle on the site of Antipolis. The & Golfe-Juan Vieux Port (04 93 63 73 12).
writers F Scott Fitzgerald and Cathédrale Notre-Dame, which ( Mon–Sat. ∑ [Link]
Ernest Hemingway stayed here. took over the town’s watchtower
Today, in the high season, it is as a belfry, has a wooden crucifix In summer, the wares of potters
filled with a young crowd. The from 1447, a 16th-century Christ spill on to the avenue of
area at the junctions of boule- and a fine Louis Bréa altarpiece this pottery capital. Picasso
vards Baudoin and Wilson is depicting the Virgin Mary. revitalized this industry, the
filled with bars. Action centres The Château Grimaldi nearby history of which is traced in
round the 1988 casino, the houses the Musée Picasso, the Musée de la Ceramique,
Palais des Congrés, and Penedé which displays over 50 drawings, together with a collection of
Gould pine grove, which gives paintings, and ceramics created contemporary pieces. In the
shelter to the International Jazz by the artist when he used the square is Picasso’s sculpture
à Juan Festival (see p37) in July. museum as a studio during 1946. L’Homme au Mouton (1943).
The exceptional modern art La Guerre et la Paix (1952) is in the
collection includes works by Musée National Picasso, housed
Ernst, Modigliani, Léger, Miró in the Romanesque chapel
and Nicolas de Staël in the last of the Château de Vallauris.
two years of his life.
Further south, the Musée E Musée de la Ceramique
d’Histoire et d’Archéologie in the Pl de la Libération. Tel 04 93 64 71 83.
fortified Bastion St-André houses Open Wed–Mon (Jul–Aug: daily).
Greek and Etruscan finds, including Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov,
a 3rd-century BC inscription to the 25 Dec. &
spirit of Septentrion, a boy who E Musée National Picasso
A glimpse of nightlife in one of the vibrant danced at the Antipolis theatre. Pl de la Libération. Tel 04 93 64 71 83.
streets of Juan-les-Pins Marineland leisure park, north Open Wed–Mon (Jul–Aug: daily).
of Antibes, includes a shark-filled Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov,
aquarium and other attractions 25 Dec. & =
0 Antibes such as polar bears and whales.
Road map E3. * 76,770 (Commune
O Marineland
of Antibes). £ @ g n 42 ave
Robert Soleau (04 22 10 60 10). 306 ave Mozart. Tel 0892 426 226.
( Mon–Sun (daily Jul & Aug). Open Feb–Dec: daily. & 7 = 0
∑ [Link] ∑ [Link]

E Musée Picasso
Originally the ancient Greek Château Grimaldi, Place Mariejol.
trading post of Antipolis, Antibes Tel 04 93 95 85 98. Open Tue–Sun.
became heavily fortified over the Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov, 25 Dec.
centuries, notably by Vauban in &78^=
the 17th century, who built the E Musée d’Histoire et
main port and Fort Carré, where d’Archéologie
Napoleon was allegedly Bastion St-André. Tel 04 93 95 85 98.
temporarily imprisoned. Open Feb–Oct: Tue–Sun; Nov–Jan:
The old town is pleasant, with Tue–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Tourists inspect merchandise in Vallauris,
a picturesque market place in 1 Nov, 25 Dec. & 7 = the pottery capital of Provence
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  77

Pablo Picasso (1881–1973)

Picasso, the giant of 20th-century art, spent most of his later life in Provence, inspired by its
luminous light and brilliant colours. He came first to Juan-les-Pins in 1920, and returned to
Antibes in 1946 with Françoise Gilot. He was given a studio in the seafront Grimaldi palace,
where, after wartime Paris, his work became infused with Mediterranean light and joyful
images. No other artist has succeeded with so many art forms, and the Antibes collection
is a taste of his versatility. He died at Mougins, aged 92.

Violin and Sheet of Music (1912),

now in Paris, is a Cubist collage
from the period when Picasso
experimented with different forms.

Les Demoiselles d’Avignon (1907),

now in New York, was the first
Cubist painting. Its bold style
shocked the art world of the day.

La Joie de Vivre (1946), is

one of Picasso’s main works
from the Antibes period,
using favourite mytho­
logical themes. He is the
bearded centaur playing
the flute, and Françoise
Gilot is the Maenad who
dances while two fauns
leap about and a satyr
plays a panpipe.

The Goat (1946), also in

Antibes, is one of his best­ L’Homme au Mouton (1943)
known images. In 1950 he was sculpted in an afternoon.
made his famous goat It stands in the main square
sculpture using a wicker of Vallauris, also home of
basket as the ribcage. La Guerre et la Paix (1952).
78  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

w Biot
Road map E3. * 10,300. £ @
n 4 Chemin neuf (04 93 65 78 00).
( Tue. ∑ [Link]

The picturesque village of Biot,

which has 12 themed walks
(available at the tourist office),
was the main pottery town in
the region until Pablo Picasso
revived the industry in Vallauris
after World War II. Today, Biot is
renowned for its bubble-flecked
glassware, with eight glassworks,
including La Verrerie de Biot
where visitors can marvel Detail of Léger mosaic from the eastern façade of the museum, Biot
at master craftsmen at work.
Biot was once the domain of e Villeneuve- in almond paste and icing sugar,
the Knights Templar (see p127), and over 1,800 menus, dating
and some fortifications remain,
Loubet back to 1820. Each summer,
such as the 1566 Porte des Road map E3. * 15,000. @ n 16 the town celebrates Escoffier
Migraniers (grenadiers). The ave de la Mer (04 92 02 66 16). ( Wed with a gastronomic festival.
church has two fine 16th-century & Sat. ∑ [Link]
works: L’Ecce Homo, attributed E Musée Escoffier de l’Art Culinaire
to Canavesio, and La Vierge au This old village is dominated 3 de la rue Escoffier. Tel 04 93 20
Rosaire, attributed to Louis Bréa. by a restored medieval 80 51. Open daily (Feb–May &
The Musée National castle built by Romée Oct: pm only). Closed Nov–Jan,
Fernand Léger con- de Villeneuve. It is also public hols. & = ∑ fondation-
tains many of the where the celebrated [Link]
artist’s vibrant works. chef, Auguste
Escoffier, (1846–
E Musée National 1935) was born. r Vence
Fernand Léger The man who Road map E3. * 19,500. @ n 8
316 chemin du Val-de- invented the place du Grand-Jardin (04 93 58 06 38).
Pome. Tel 04 92 91 50 bombe Néro and ( Tue & Fri. ∑ [Link]
20. Open Wed–Mon. pêche Melba was
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 chef de cuisine at A delightful old cathedral town
Dec. & 7 8 - =
the Grand Hotel, on a rocky ridge, Vence has
∑ musees-nationaux-
Chef Auguste Escoffier, Monte-Carlo before long attracted artists. The
[Link]/fleger
born in Villeneuve-Loubet he was persuaded English writer D H Lawrence
E La Verrerie de Biot to become head died here in 1930.
Chemin des Combes. Tel 04 93 65 chef at the Savoy in London. The old town is entered
03 00. Open daily. Closed 1 & 15–27 The Musée Escoffier de l’Art by the Porte de Peyra (1441),
Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. 7 - = Culinaire, in the house of his beside the place du Frêne,
∑ [Link] birth, contains many showpieces named after its giant ash
tree planted to commemorate
the visits of King François I
The Creation of Biot Glassware and Pope Paul III. The 16th-
Biot is the capital of glass- century castle of the lords of
blowing on the coast. Local Villeneuve, seigneurs of Vence,
soils provide sand for glass- houses the museum and the
making, and typical Biot glass Fondation Emile Hugues,
is sturdy, with tiny air bubbles named after an illustrious
(known as verre à bulles). The former mayor.
opening of Léger’s museum The cathedral, one of the
led to an increased interest smallest in France, stands by
in all local crafts, and to the the site of the forum of the
arrival of the Verrerie de Biot
Roman city of Vintium. Vence
workshop in 1956. This revived
old methods of making oil
was a bishopric from the
lamps, carafes and narrow- 4th to the 19th centuries.
spouted porrons, from which Its notable prelates included
a jet of liquid can be poured Saint Véran (d AD 492), and
straight into the mouth. Bishop Godeau (1605–72).
The 51 oak and pear choir
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  79

stalls are carved with satirical

figures. Marc Chagall designed
the mosaic of Moses in the
Bulrushes in the chapel (1979).
Henri Matisse (see pp86–7)
decorated the Chapelle du
Rosaire between 1947 and 1951
to thank the Dominican nuns
who nursed him through an
illness. An exhibition is dedicated
to Matisse’s preparatory drawings
for the chapel.

E Fondation Emile Hugues

Château de Villeneuve. Tel 04 93 24
24 23. Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 25 Dec. & =
R Chapelle du Rosaire
Ave Henri Matisse. Tel 04 93 58 03 26.
Open Tue & Thu: am; Mon–Wed & Sat:
pm Closed mid-Nov–mid-Dec,
public hols. &

t St-Paul de Vence
Road map E3. * 3,500. @ Vence
and Nice. n 2 rue Grande (04 93 32
86 95). ∑ [Link]

This classic medieval village perché

(see pp24–5) was built behind the Simone Signoret and Yves Montand in St-Paul de Vence
coast to avoid Saracen attack.
Between 1543 and 1547, it was Colombe d’Or auberge (see p210). gold reliquaries and a fine local
re-ramparted, under François I, Today the auberge has one of the 13th-century enamel Virgin. The
to stand up to Savoy, Austria and finest 20th-century private art Musée d’Histoire Locale nearby
Piedmont. A celebrity village, it collections, built up over the years features waxwork costumed
was first “discovered” by Bonnard, thanks to the owner’s friendship characters and a tableaux of
Modigliani and other artists of with artists and sometimes in lieu scenes from the town’s rich past,
the 1920s. Since that time, many of payment of bills. The priceless and the old castle keep adjacent
of the rich and famous literati dining-room décor includes is now used as the town hall.
and glitterati have flocked to paintings by such world-famous Just in front of the museum, the
St-Paul de Vence. Most famously, artists as Miró, Picasso and Braque. 17th-century White Penitants
these personalities slept, dined, In the Romanesque and Baroque chapel was decorated by
and, in the case of Yves Montand church, there is a painting, Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon.
and Simone Signoret, had their Catherine of Alexandria, attributed The main street runs from
wedding reception at the to Claudio Coello. There are also the 14th-century entrance gate
of Porte Royale and past the
Grande Fontaine to Porte Sud.
This gives on to the cemetery,
a resting place for Chagall, the
Maeghts and many locals. It
also offers wonderful views.
Just outside St-Paul de Vence,
on La Gardette Hill, is Josep
Lluis Sert’s striking concrete
and rose Fondation Maeght
(see pp80–81), one of Europe’s
finest modern art museums.

E Musée d’Histoire Locale

and Chapelle Folon
Pl de la Mairie. Tel 04 93 32 41 13.
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, Nov,
Entrance to Chapelle du Rosaire in Vence, decorated by Henri Matisse 25 Dec. &
80  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Fondation Maeght
Nestling amid the umbrella pines in the hills above St-Paul . Cour Giacometti
de Vence, this small modern art museum is one of the world’s Slender bronze figures by
finest. Aimé and Marguerite Maeght were Cannes art dealers Alberto Giacometti, such
as L’Homme Qui Marche I
who numbered the likes of Chagall, Matisse and Miró among (1960), inhabit their own
their clients and friends. Their private collection formed the shady courtyard or
basis for the museum, which opened in 1964. Like St-Paul appear about the
itself, the Maeght has been a magnet for celebrities: Duke grounds as if they
have a life of
Ellington, Samuel Beckett, André Malraux, Merce their own.
Cunningham and, of course, a galaxy of the artists
themselves have mingled at fundraising events. The
museum now receives over 200,000 visitors each year.

La Vie (1964)
Marc Chagall’s painting is
full of humanity: here is love,
parenthood, religion, society,
nature; all part of a swirling,
circus-like tableau of dancers
and musicians, acrobats
and clowns.

Les Renforts (1963)

One of many works of art that greet arriving
visitors, Alexander Calder’s creation is a “stabile”
– a counterpart to his more familiar mobiles.

Gallery
KEY
Guide
1 Cowled roofs allow indirect The permanent
light to filter into the galleries. The collection is
building was designed by Spanish comprised entirely
architect Josep Lluis Sert. of 20th-century art.
2 Les Poissons is a mosaic pool The only items on
designed by Georges Braque in 1963. permanent view are the
3 Chapelle St-Bernard was built large sculptures in the
in memory of the Maeghts’ son, who grounds. The indoor galleries
died in 1953, aged 11. Above the display works from the
altarpiece, a 12th-century Christ, is collection in rotation but,
a stained-glass window by Braque. in summer, only temporary
exhibitions are held.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  81

La Partie de
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Campagne (1954)
Fernand Léger lends
Practical Information
his unique vision to the
623 chemin Gardettes, St-Paul-
classic artistic scene of
de-Vence. Tel 04 93 32 81 63.
a country outing.
Open 10am–6pm daily (Jul–Sep:
to 7pm). Closed 24 & 31 Dec. &
- = Library. ∑ fondation-
[Link]

. Labyrinthe de Miró
Joan Miró’s l’Oiseau Lunaire (1968) is one
of the many statues in this multi-levelled
maze of trees, water and gargoyles.

Oiseau dans le Feuillage (1961)

Georges Braque’s bird nestles
amongst “foliage” made of newsprint.
Braque was highly influential in the
creation of the Fondation, but died
before he could see the museum
finally opened to the public.

L’Eté (1917)
Pierre Bonnard settled in Provence
for the last 22 years of his life, becoming
Main entrance and a close friend of Aimé Maeght. Matisse
information called Bonnard “the greatest of us all”.
82  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Château-Musée Grimaldi
In the Middle Ages the Grimaldi family held sway over
many of the Mediterranean coastal towns. The castle that
towers over Haut-de-Cagnes was built by Rainier in 1309
as a fortress-prison; in 1620 his descendant, Jean-Henri,
transformed it into the handsome palace which shelters
behind its dramatic battlements. Mercifully, the château
survived the worst ravages of the Revolution and later
occupation by Piedmontese troops in 1815. It now houses
an eclectic mixture of museums,
from olives to modern art.
Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s studio at
Les Collettes

y Cagnes-sur-Mer
Road map E3. * 47,156. £ @
n 6 blvd Maréchal Juin (04 93 20
61 64). ( Tue–Sun. ∑ cagnes-
[Link]

There are three parts to Cagnes-

sur-Mer: Cros-de-Cagnes, the
fishing village and beach;
Cagnes-Ville, the commercial
centre; and Haut-de-Cagnes,
the upper town.
Haut-de-Cagnes is the place Second
to head for. This hill-top town floor
is riven with lanes, steps and
vaulted passages. It is domina- Stairs to
ted by the Château-Musée the tower
Grimaldi but also has some
fine Renaissance houses and
the church of St-Pierre, where
the Grimaldis are entombed. The chapel contains
a wealth of religious
East of Cagnes-Ville is Les
ornamentation, both ancient
Collettes, built in 1907 among
and modern.
ancient olive trees by Pierre-
Auguste Renoir (1841–1919).
He came here, hoping that
the climate would relieve his
rheumatism and stayed for
the rest of his life. A picture
of Renoir in his last year shows
him still at work, a brush tied
to his crippled hand.
Now the Musée Renoir at
Les Collettes is almost exactly
as it was when the artist died.
In the house are 14 of Renoir’s
paintings, as well as works by Gallery Guide
his friends Bonnard and Dufy. The olive tree museum is on the
Renoir’s beloved olive groves ground floor, along with exhibits
are the setting for the bronze about life in the medieval castle.
Venus Victrix (1915–16). The Suzy Solidor collection is
. Donation Suzy Solidor displayed in a former boudoir on
E Musée Renoir This 1930s chanteuse was painted the first floor. Selections from the
Chemin des Collettes. by 244 artists during her lifetime. permanent collection of modern
Tel 04 93 20 61 07. Open Wed–Mon. The 40 works on display include Mediterranean art, as well as
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. portraits by Jean Cocteau (above) temporary exhibitions, are on
&7= and Kisling (above right). the first and second floors.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  83

Renaissance Courtyard
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Filled with lush greenery and
dappled sunlight, this central
Practical Information
space rises past two levels of
Place du Château, Cagnes-sur-Mer.
marble-columned galleries
Tel 04 92 02 47 30. Open 10am–
to the open sky.
noon, 2–6pm Wed–Mon (Nov–
Apr: to 5pm). Closed 1 Jan,
25 Dec. &

First floor

Ground Main
floor entrance . La Chute de Phaëton attributed to Carlone
The Piedmontese soldiers occupying the château in the
19th century had little respect for this spectacular 1620s
illusionistic ceiling – and used it for target practice.

Ticket office

Musée de l’Olivier
A massive wooden oil
mill, vast terracotta jars
and other artifacts
illustrate the time-
honoured Provençal
tradition of olive
cultivation.

Key to Floorplan
Donation Suzy Solidor
Musée d’Art Modern Méditérranéen
Musée de l’Olivier
To place du
Permanent collection
Château
Temporary exhibition space
Exit Non-exhibition space
84  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

u Street-by-Street: Nice
A dense network of pedestrian alleys, narrow buildings
and pastel, Italianate façades make up Vieux Nice or
the Old Town. Its streets contain many fine 17th-
century Italianate churches, among them St-François-
de-Paule, behind the Opéra, and l’Eglise du Jésus in
the rue Droite. Most of the seafront, at quai des Etats-
Unis, is taken up by the Ponchettes, a double row of
low houses with flat roofs, a fashionable walk before
the promenade des Anglais was built. To the east of
this lies the Colline du Château, occupied in the 4th . Cathédrale Ste-Réparate
IE
century by Greeks who kept Built in 1650 by the Nice

ER
architect J-A Guiberto

H
fishing nets on the quay.

C
in Baroque style, this

U
BO
has a fine dome of

LA
Palais de Justice glazed tiles and an

E
This awesome building 18th-century tower.

D
E
was inaugurated on

RU
17 October 1892, RUE
replacing the smaller F G
AL LAO
quarters used before

RUE COL
Nice became part

E
CH
of France. On the same
site was a 13th-century
RUE DU MAR

ONN
church and convent.

A D ’I S T R
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PREFECTUR
RUE DE LA
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. Cours Saleya
IN

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The site of an enticing vegetable COU

and flower market, it is also a lively
area at night. ULE
E PA
- FD
RU E ST

Opera House
Built in 1855, the ornate and sumptuous
Opéra de Nice has its entrance just off the
quai des Etats-Unis.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 NICE  85

Chapelle de la Miséricorde
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Designed in 1740 by Guarino
Guarinone, this Baroque
Practical Information
masterpiece has a fine Rococo
Road map F3. * 347,800.
interior. The Nice altarpieces are by
n 5 promenade des Anglais
Louis Bréa and Jean Miralhet.
(04 92 70 74 07). ( Tue–Sun.
_ Carnival (Feb), Nice Jazz Festival
(July). ∑ [Link]
Transport
k 7 km (4.5 miles) SW.
£ Ave Thiers. g Quai du
RUE Commerce.
RUE

DE
LA
LOG
RUE DU

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TRAL

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. Palais Lascaris
18th-century statues of Mars
RUE S

and Venus flank the staircase.

RUE JUL

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The trompe l’oeil ceiling is by

RUE DE
T GA

Genoese artists.
RIE
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BAR ILLE
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PLACE S
C H A R ILXE
FEL

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Q UAI
Tourist Train
It passes the market, old
town and castle gardens.

Les Ponchettes 0 metres 100

One of Nice’s most 0 yards 100
unusual architectural
features is the row of
low white buildings along
the seafront once used
by fishermen, now a
mix of galleries and
ethnic restaurants.
Key
Suggested route
86  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Nice: Musée Matisse

Henri Matisse (1869–1954) first came to Nice in 1916, and lived
at several addresses in the city before settling in Cimiez for the
rest of his life. His devotion to the city and its “clear, crystalline,
precise, limpid” light culminated, just before his death in 1954,
with a bequest of works. Nine years later they formed the
museum’s core collection, sharing space with archaeological
relics in the Villa des Arènes, next to the Cimiez cemetery,
which holds the artist’s simple memorial. Since 1993 the
entire villa, complete with its new extension, has been
devoted to celebrating his life, work and influence.

. Nu Bleu IV (1952)
The celebrated “cut-outs” were
made in later life when Matisse
was bedridden.

First floor

Matisse in his Studio (1948)

The museum’s photographic
collection offers a unique
insight into the man and his
work. Robert Capa’s picture
shows him drafting the murals
for the Chapelle du Rosaire at
Vence (see pp78–9).

Ground floor

. Fauteuil Rocaille
A gilded Rococo armchair,
painted by Matisse in 1946,
is among many of his personal
belongings that are on display
in the museum.

Main
Gallery Guide entrance
The ground and first floors display works from the
museum’s permanent collection, from which items
Key to Floorplan
are sometimes loaned out to other museums. The
subterranean wing is used for exhibitions devoted Permanent collection
to Matisse and his contemporaries. Temporary exhibition space

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 NICE  87

Liseuse à la Table
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Jaune (1944)
The tranquillity of this
Practical Information
work belies the troubles
164 ave des Arènes de Cimiez,
that beset Matisse in
Nice. Tel 04 93 81 08 08. Open
World War II, including a
10am–6pm Wed–Mon. Closed
major operation and the
1 Jan, Easter Sunday, 1 May,
arrest of his wife for
25 Dec. & 7 8 ^ =
Resistance work.
∑ [Link]

Torse Debout
This bronze of
Mezzanine Children’s 1909 was given to
workshop the museum in
1978 by the artist’s
son, Jean.

Lower ground floor

Exit

The upper floors

of the villa hold a
library and resource
centre for students
and researchers.

. Nature Morte aux

Trompe l’Oeil Façade Grenades (1947)
The decorative stonework Ripe pomegranates feature in
that adorns the 17th-century a favourite setting: an interior
Villa des Arènes is, in fact, a with a window to “skies… as
masterful disguise of plain brilliantly blue as Matisse’s eyes”,
walls, only visible close up. as the poet Aragon put it.
88  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Exploring Nice open daily) in St-Philippe. At the

heart of the city, the promenade
Nice is France’s largest tourist resort and fifth biggest city. It has du Paillon is a strip of parkland
the second busiest airport in France and more banks, galleries with a central waterway that
and museums than anywhere else outside the capital. Each year, runs from the old town, through
the centre to the promenade
Nice hosts a lavish pre-Lent carnival, ending with a fireworks
des Anglais. It also hosts arts
display and the Battle of the Flowers (see p228). The city has its projects, sports events and
own dialect and its own cuisine of socca, chickpea pancakes, includes a children’s park.
but the ubiquitous pizza ovens lend a rich Italian flavour.
P Hotel Négresco
overlooking the town, where the 37 promenade des Anglais. Tel 04 93
old monastery of Notre-Dame 16 64 00. See Where to Stay (see p198).
is worth a visit. Lower down, This palatial hotel was built in
next to the Musée Matisse (see 1912 for Henri Négresco, once a
pp86–7), are the remains of a gypsy-violin serenader, who went
Roman amphitheatre and baths. bankrupt eight years later. In the
Artifacts are on show at the salon royale hangs a Baccarat
nearby archaeological museum. chandelier made from 16,000
The city’s most remarkable
feature is the 19th-century
Beach and promenade des Anglais, one of promenade des Anglais, which
the major attractions of Nice runs right along the seafront.
Built in the 1820s, it is today a
A glimpse of the city pleasant 5-km (3-mile) highway.
Nice lies at the foot of a hill known Until World War II, Nice was
as the Château, after the castle popular with aristocrats. Queen
that once stood there. The flower Victoria stayed here in 1895,
and vegetable market (Tue–Sun) and in 1912, Tsar Nicholas II built
in the Cours Saleya is a shoppers’ the onion-domed Cathédrale
paradise. The fashionable quarter Orthodoxe Russe (Ave Nicolas II, Ornate statue at the fountain in
is the Cimiez district, on the hills Bd Tzarévitch; 09 81 09 53 45; place Masséna

Musée Matisse 0 metres 500

Nice Musée
Chagall
Monastére de Cimiez

0 yards 500
1 Hotel Négresco SUD
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Musée EN ADE DE la Marine

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Asiatiques Hotel PE
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Négresco Baie des Anges
Aéroport
7 km (4.5 miles)
ANTIBES, CANNES Key to Symbols see back flap

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 NICE  89

stones. The infamous American + Palais Lascaris

dancer Isadora Duncan spent her 15 rue Droite. Tel 04 93 62 72 40.
last months here in 1927. She Open Wed–Mon. Closed 1 Jan,
died tragically outside the hotel Easter Sunday, 1 May, 25 Dec. &
when her trailing scarf caught This salon of this stuccoed 17th-
in the wheel of her Bugatti and century palace has a trompe l’oeil
broke her neck. ceiling, said to be by Carlone. The
palace now houses a museum
E Villa Masséna of musical instruments.
65 rue de France. Tel 04 93 91 19 10.
Open Wed–Mon. Closed 1 Jan, E Musée des Arts Asiatiques
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 405 promenade des Anglais.
This 19th-century Italianate villa Tel 04 92 29 37 00. Open Wed–Mon.
belonged to the great-grandson of Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. 7 8 =
Napoleon’s Nice-born Marshal. Its This museum has outstanding
Empire-style main hall has a bust examples of ancient and Amazing hillside view over St-Jean-
of the Marshal by Canova. Among 20th-century art from across Asia Cap-Ferrat
its exhibits are religious works, in Kenzo Tange’s uncluttered
paintings by Niçois primitives, white marble and glass setting. i St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
white-glazed faïence pottery (see Road map F3. * 1,913. k Nice.
p190) and Josephine’s gold cloak. E Musée des Beaux-Arts £ Beaulieu-sur-Mer. @ St-Jean-Cap-
33 ave des Baumettes. Tel 04 92 15 Ferrat. n 5/59 ave Denis Séméria (04
E Musée Chagall 28 28. Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 93 76 08 90). ∑ saintjeancapferrat-
36 ave Dr Ménard. Tel 04 93 53 87 20. Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. 7 8 = & [Link]
Open Wed–Mon. Closed 1 Jan, ∑ [Link]
1 May, 25 Dec. & 7 8 Once home to a Ukranian The Cap Ferrat peninsula is a
- in summer. ∑ musee- princess, this 1878 villa playground for the rich, with
[Link] houses a collection begun exclusive villas, luxury gardens
This museum houses with a donation by Napo- and fabulous yachts in the
the largest collec- leon III. Three centuries of St-Jean marina.
tion of Marc art cover work by Jules King Léopold II of Belgium
Chagall’s work. Chéret, Carle Van Loo, started the trend in the 19th
There are 17 Van Dongen, and century, when he built his
canvases from his Impressionists and Les Cèdres estate on the west
Biblical Message Post-Impressionists side of the cape, overlooking
series, including Russian Orthodox cathedral such as Bonnard, Villefranche. Later residents have
five versions of in St-Philippe Dufy and Vuillard. included the Duke and Duchess
The Song of Songs. of Windsor, David Niven and
Three stained-glass windows E Musée d’Art Moderne et Edith Piaf. High hedges and gates
depict the Creation of the World, d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC) protect these villas, but one of
and the large mosaic reflected in Place Yves Klein. Tel 04 97 13 42 01. the finest, housing the Musée
the pool is of the prophet Elijah. Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Ephrussi de Rothschild (see
1 May, 25 Dec. 7 8 = & pp90–91), is open to the public.
R Cathédrale Ste-Réparate Housed in a strikingly original There is a superb view from
3, place Rossetti. Tel 08 92 70 74 07 building with marble-faced the little garden of the 1837
for guided tours. Open daily. 8 towers and glass passageways, lighthouse at the end of the
This 17th-century Baroque the collection reflects the cape. A pretty walk leads around
building has a handsome tiled history of the avant-garde, the Pointe St-Hospice, east of
dome. The interior is lavishly including Pop Art by Andy the port at St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat,
decorated with plasterwork, Warhol and work by Ecole de a former fishing village with old
marble and original panelling. Nice artists such as Yves Klein. houses fronting the harbour.
For a fee, you can enjoy one of
the town’s two private beaches:
Plage de Passable or Plage de
Paloma. Both offer sun loungers,
water sports and boat excursions.

L Plage de Passable
Chemin de Passable. Tel 04 93 76 06 17.
Open daily (Easter–Sep). & 7 -
L Plage de Paloma
1 route de Saint Hospice. Tel 04 93
01 64 71. Open daily (Easter–Sep).
Yves Klein’s Anthropométrie (1960) in the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain &7-
90  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat: Ephrussi de Rothschild Villa and Gardens

Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild (1864–1934) could
have led a life of indolent luxury, but her passions for
travel and fine art, combined with an iron will, led to
the creation of the most perfect “dream villa” of the
Riviera, Villa Ile-de-France. Despite interest shown
by King Léopold II of Belgium for the land, she
succeeded in purchasing it and later supervised
every aspect of the villa’s creation. It was completed
in 1912 and, although she never used it as a primary
residence, Béatrice hosted garden parties and soirées . Fragonard Room
The fine collection of working drawings
here until 1934. The villa remains a monument to by Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732–1806)
a woman of spirit and vision. includes this sketch, wryly named If he
were as faithful to me.

Béatrice, Aged 19
Her meek appearance
belies a woman who,
a contemporary once
observed, “commands
flowers to grow during
the Mistral”.

Béatrice’s Boudoir
Béatrice’s writing desk is a
beautiful piece of 18th-century
furniture by cabinetmaker
Jean-Henri Riesener (1734–1806).

KEY

1 The State Room looks out on to

the French garden, combining the
pleasures of a sea breeze with the
comfort of elegant surroundings. Villa Ile-de-France
2 First-floor apartments
Béatrice christened her villa following a pattern established by
another villa she owned named “Rose de France”. Its stucco walls
are coloured in a lovely shade of rose pink.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  91

Covered Patio
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Combining Moorish and
Italian elements, this airy
Practical Information
space rises the full height
1 ave Ephrussi de Rothschild,
of the villa. The marble
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Tel 04 93
columns, mosaic flooring
01 33 09. Open Feb–Jun &
and diffused light
Sep–Oct: 10am–6pm daily,
complement the
Jul–Aug: 10am–7pm daily,
Renaissance religious
Nov–Jan: 2–6pm. & 8 9
works on the walls.
0 - = 7 ground floor only.
∑ [Link]

Entrance to villa and assembly

point for guided tours

Cabinet des Singes

Béatrice’s love of animals is
epitomized by this tiny room.
Its wooden panels are painted
with monkeys dancing to
the music of the diminutive
18th-century Meissen
monkey orchestra.

To ticket office and

car park

. Gardens
The main garden is
modelled on a ship’s
deck – Béatrice employed . State Room
extra staff to wander Like every room in the villa, the
around in sailors’ decor here is lavish, with wood
uniforms. There are nine ornamentation from the Crillon in
themed gardens, Paris, Savonnerie carpets, and chairs
including Japanese and upholstered in 18th-century
Florentine gardens. Savonnerie tapestries.
92  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

o Villefranche-
sur-Mer
Road map F3. * 5,795. £ @
n Jardin François Binon (04 93
01 73 68). ( Wed, Sat, Sun.
∑ [Link]

This unspoilt town overlooks

a beautiful natural harbour,
deep enough to be a naval
port, with a lively waterfront
lined by bars and cafés.
Chapelle St-Pierre on the
quay, once used for storing
fishing nets, was renovated
in 1957, when Jean Cocteau
added lavish frescoes. Steep
lanes climb up from the
harbour, turning into tunnels
beneath the tightly packed
buildings. The vaulted rue
Obscure has provided shelter
from bombardment as recently
as World War II. The Baroque
Eglise St-Michel contains a
16th-century carving of St Rock
and his dog and a 1790 organ.
Within the 16th-century Cita- Fishing in the natural harbour at Villefranch-sur-Mer
delle de St-Elme are the chapel,
open-air theatre and museums. formal gardens and the Belle used to create lavish mosaics,
Epoque Rotunda, now frescoes and inlaid furniture.
R Chapelle St-Pierre a conference centre and There are also numerous
4 quai Amiral Courbet. Tel 04 93 76 museum, add to Beaulieu’s original Greek ornaments, and
90 70. Open Wed–Mon. Closed mid- old-fashioned air. Among its an antique sculpture gallery.
Nov–mid-Dec, 25 Dec. & hotels is La Réserve, founded by
Gordon Bennett, the owner of P Villa Grecque Kérylos
the New York Herald. As a stunt, Impasse Gustave Eiffel. Tel 04 93
p Beaulieu-sur-Mer in 1871, he sent journalist 01 01 44. Open daily. & =
H M Stanley to rescue the ∑ [Link]
Road map F3. * 3,800. £ @
n Pl Clemenceau (04 93 01 02 21). Scottish missionary and explorer
( daily. ∑ [Link] Dr Livingstone, who was looking
for the source of the Nile. a Eze
Hemmed in and protected by Beaulieu-sur-Mer is the site Road map F3. * 2,574. £ @
a rock face, this is one of the of the Villa Grecque Kérylos. n Pl Général de Gaulle (04 93 41
Riviera’s warmest resorts in Built by archeologist Théodore 26 00). ( Sun. ∑ [Link]
winter, with two beaches: the Reinach, it resembles an ancient
Baie des Fourmis and, by the Greek villa. Authentic techniques Eze, a dramatic village perché
port, Petite Afrique. The casino, and precious materials were (see pp24–5) is a cluster of
ancient buildings some 429 m
(1,407 ft) above the sea. The
Jardin Exotique, built around
the ruins of a 14th-century
castle, offers stunning views
as far as Corsica.
Flower-decked, car-free
streets lead to an 18th-century
church. Its bust of Christ is
made from olive wood that
survived the terrible fires that
raged close by in 1986.

Y Jardin Exotique
Rue du Château. Tel 04 93 41 10 30.
Steps of the elegant Belle Epoque Rotunda (1886), Beaulieu-sur-Mer Open daily. Closed Christmas week. &

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  93

s La Turbie
Road map F3. * 3,200. @ n 2 pl
Detras (04 93 41 21 15). ( Thu.
∑ [Link]

High above Monte-Carlo is one

of the finest views on the Riviera,
reached by a stretch of the
Grande Corniche that crosses
ravines and tunnels through
mountains. The village of La
Turbie, scented with bougain-
villea, has two medieval gate-
ways. Its oldest houses, dating
from the 11th–13th centuries, View of Trophée d’Auguste from the village of La Turbie
are on the Roman Via Julia.
honour Augustus’s victory in destroyed on the orders of Louis
E Musée du Trophée 13 BC over 44 fractious Ligurian XIV, who feared it would fall into
d’Auguste tribes. The original trophy was enemy hands during the invasion
18 cours Albert 1er. Tel 04 93 41 20 84. 50-m (164-ft) tall and had niches of Provence by Savoy in 1707.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, with statues of each of Restoration was first begun in
1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec. the campaign’s victors. 1905, and continued in 1923
& 7 8 by appt. = There were stairs by an American, Edward Tuck.
∑ [Link]- leading to all parts Today, the triumphal inscription
[Link] of the structure. of Roman victory has been
The most spectacular When the Romans restored to its original position.
feature of La Turbie left, the trophy was A small museum on the site
is the Trophée gradually dismantled. documents the history of the
d’Auguste, a huge In the 4th century, trophy, with fragments of the
Roman monument, St Honorat chipped monument, pieces of sculpture,
built out of white local away at the monu- inscriptions, drawings and a
stone, which marked Monument detail, ment because it had small-scale model.
the division between Trophée d’Auguste become the object of The spectacular panorama
Italy and Gaul. Its pagan worship. Later from the terraces of the trophy
construction was ordered in it served both as a fort and as takes in Cap Ferrat and Eze.
6 BC by the Roman Senate to a stone quarry. It was partly Monaco, at 480 m (1,575 ft)
below, seems breathtakingly
Trophée d’Auguste close, like an urban stage set
This triumphal monument had 6-m (20-ft) statue of seen from a seat in the gods.
a square podium, a circular Emperor Augustus Among visitors impressed
colonnade and a stepped with La Turbie and its trophy,
cone which was surmounted was the poet Dante (1265–
The original 1321), and his comments are
by the statue of Augustus. colonnade included
niches for the statues
inscribed on a plaque in rue
of Augustus’s Comte-de-Cessole. From the
The inscription records campaign generals. end of this street there is a fine
the names of the view of the monument.
44 tribes subjugated
by Augustus, with
a dedication to the R Eglise St-Michel-Archange
emperor. Open daily. 7
The 18th-century Nice Baroque
church was built with stones
plundered from the trophy.
Inside there is an altar of
multi-coloured marble and a
17th-century onyx and agate
table, which was used for
communion. Its religious
paintings include two
works by the Niçois artist
Jean-Baptiste Van Loo,
a portrait of St Mark
attributed to Veronese, and
a Piéta from the Bréa School.
94  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

d Monaco
If you come to Monaco by car, you may well travel in
on the Moyenne Corniche, one of the world’s most
beautiful coastal highways. Arriving amid the sky­
scrapers of present­day Monaco, it is hard to imagine
its turbulent history, much of it centred on Monaco­Ville.
The palace, cathedral and museums are all in this old
part of town, set on the Rock, a sheer­sided, flat­topped
finger of land extending 792 m (2,600 ft) into the sea.
First a Greek and later a Roman colony, it was bought
from the Genoese in 1309 by François Grimaldi. In spite
of family feuds and at least one political assassination,
the Grimaldis, whose crest shows two sword­waving
monks, remain the world’s oldest ruling monarchy.
Modern Monaco
Lack of space has led to vertical
building, and a striking skyline of
skyscrapers and apartment blocks.

Palais Princier
The Grimaldis have ruled
from here since the 14th century.
The palace dates from the 16th–17th
centuries but its towers are Genoese of
1215. The constitution insists it is guarded
by French carabiniers. (See p98).

KEY Cathédrale
This Neo-Romanesque
1 Museum of Vieux Monaco
construction in cream-
2 Monaco Top Cars Collection, coloured stone sits on
is an automobile museum displaying a rocky spur. Among
Prince Rainier III’s private collection its treasures are two
of more than one hundred early 16th-century
antique cars. screens by Bréa, La Pietà
and St-Nicolas. (See p98).

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 MONACO  95

Musée
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Océanographique
Erected on a sheer
Practical Information
cliff, high above
Road map F3. * 35,000. n 2a
the Mediterranean,
blvd des Moulins (00 377 92 16
Monaco has one of the
61 16). ( daily. _ Festival du
best aquaria in Europe.
Cirque (Jan); Grand Prix (May);
It is also used as a
Fête Nationale (19 Nov).
scientific research ∑ [Link]
institute. (See p98).
Transport
k 15 km (9 miles) SW Nice.
£ Pl Ste Dévote (08 36 35 35 35)

Théâtre du Fort Antoine

This ancient fort has been converted
into a theatre which shows a wide
range of productions in summer.

The Royal Family

Monaco was ruled from 1949 by
the businesslike Prince Rainier Louis
Henri Maxence Bertrand de Grimaldi.
He was the 26th ruling prince, a
descendant of the Grimaldi who,
disguised as a monk, entered the
Monaco fortress in 1297. At that
time the territory extended to
Antibes and Menton. Prince Rainier’s
wife, former film star Grace Kelly,
whom he married in 1956, died
tragically in 1982. Their son, Albert,
inherited the $200 million throne on
Rainier’s death in 2005. In July 2011,
Albert married former Olympic
swimmer and model Charlene
Wittstock in a civil ceremony, held
Typical Old Town Villa in the Palais Princier. In 2014, Albert
Hidden in a labyrinth of passages and Charlene became parents to Prince Rainier III and Grace Kelly
are fountains, tiny squares and twins, Jacques and Gabriella. at their engagement party in 1956
elegant façades.
96  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Monaco: Monte-Carlo
The dramatic heights of Monte-Carlo are the best-known area of
Monaco. People flock to the annual car rally in January and many
of the world’s greatest singers perform here in the opera season.
Monte-Carlo is named after Charles III, who opened the first
casino in 1856, to save himself from bankruptcy. Such was his
success that in 1883 he abolished taxation. Although Queen
Victoria thought Monte-Carlo a den of iniquity, her view was
not shared by other aristocrats, including Edward VII, who were
regular visitors. The stunning Casino and Opera House were
built by Charles Garnier, architect of the Paris Opéra. Between View of Monte-Carlo
It is worth pausing at
Monaco-Ville and Monte-Carlo lies La Condamine, a shopping La Turbie (see p93) to
and commercial centre surrounding the luxury yachts. admire the panorama.

Jardin Exotique
Plants normally grown in balmy climates flourish
here, and its grottoes housed prehistoric animals
and humans 200,000 years ago (see p98).

KEY

1 Palais Princier La Condamine

2 La Turbie The quays are pleasant
yacht-watching promenades
3 Eglise Ste-Dévote
laid out by Albert I. The
4 Hôtel Hermitage current prince added a water
5 Centre de Congrès sports pool, and it is also a
popular setting for funfairs.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 MONACO  97

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Road map F3. n 2a blvd des
Moulins (00 377 99 99 20 00).
Grimaldi Forum (cultural
centre): Tel 00 377 99 99 3000.
Open daily. _ Monte-Carlo
Rally (Jan); Festival International
de Feux d’Artifice (fireworks)
(Jul–Aug). ( daily.
Transport
£ Pl Ste Dévote.

Le Brasserie du Café de Paris

Ladies’ man Edward VII was a
regular visitor to this renovated
belle époque
é triumph. The dessert
crêpe suzette was named after
one companion.

Casino
In a 3-day gambling spree
in 1891, Charles Deville
Salle Garnier Wells turned £4,000
Designed by Charles Garnier into a million francs,
in 1878, this was where ballet inspiring the song, The
innovators such as Diaghilev Man Who Broke the Bank
and Nijinksy congregated. at Monte-Carlo (see p98).
98  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Exploring Monaco
After the Vatican, Monaco is the world’s smallest sovereign state.
It covers 1.95 sq km (0.75 sq miles), about half the size of New
York City’s Central Park. Its inhabitants, 20 per cent Monégasque
citizens, pay no taxes and enjoy the world’s highest per capita
income. Monégasque, a Ligurian language derived from Provençal
French and Genoese Italian, is reflected in street names, such as
piaca for place, carrigiu for rue, but the official language is French.
The euro is used here and most of France’s laws apply. Monaco’s
road network is complex, so drivers should plan routes with care.

the Salons Privés and American

games in the Salle des Amériques.
Renowned French marine explorer
E Nouveau Musée National Jacques Cousteau
de Monaco
Villa Sauber, 17 ave Princesse Grace. E Musée Océanographique
Tel 00 377 98 98 91 26. Villa Paloma, Ave St-Martin. Tel 00 377 93 15 36 00.
56 blvd du Jardin-Exotique. Tel 00 377 Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, Grand Prix,
98 98 48 60. Open for exhibitions only, 25 Dec. & 7 = 0 Cinema.
check website for details. Closed 1 Jan, ∑ [Link]
Grand Prix, 19 Nov, 25 Dec. & 8 Founded by Prince Albert I in
∑ [Link]
1910, this clifftop museum has
Monaco Grand Prix, one of the major Two spectacular villas house this an aquarium filled with rare
attractions of Monte-Carlo museum charting the cultural, marine plants and animals, a
historical and artistic heritage of collection of shells, coral and
+ Palais Princier the Principality. The Villa Sauber, pearls, and a life-sized model
Pl du Palais. Tel 00 377 93 25 18 31. a fine example of belle époque
é of a giant squid. Marine explorer
Open Apr–Oct: daily. & architecture, hosts entertain- Jacques Cousteau was director
Monaco’s seat of government, ment exhibits. Villa Paloma, here for 30 years until 1988. The
this castle-palace is protected by with its beautiful Italian garden, roof terrace offers superb views.
cannons donated by Louis XIV, shows modern and contemp-
and sentries who change daily orary art, architecture and design. Y Jardin Exotique
at 11:55am. The interior features 62 blvd du Jardin Exotique. Tel 00 377
priceless furniture and frescoes. R Cathédrale 93 15 29 80. Open daily. Closed 19
Ave St-Martin. Tel 00 377 93 30 87 70. Nov, 25 Dec. & = 7 restricted.
E Museum of Vieux Monaco Open daily. 7 ∑ [Link]
2 rue Emile de Loth. Tel 00 377 93 The 12th-century church of A vast array of magnificent tropical
50 57 28. Open Jun–Sep: Wed–Fri. St-Nicolas was replaced by this and sub-tropical plants grow
The museum houses a range 19th-century Neo-Romanesque here. The adjoining Grotte de
of exhibits such as paintings, building in La Turbie stone. Its l’Observatoire, is where prehis-
ceramics, furniture and costumes, old altarpiece, by Louis Bréa, toric animals lived 200,000 years
demonstrating the heritage of is by the ambulatory, with its ago. The Musée d’Anthropologie
Monaco. An initiative taken by tombs of princes and bishops. Préhistorique, accessible via
the representatives of the old The much-mourned Princess the gardens, displays prehistoric
Monégasque families to preserve Grace is buried here. tools, figurines and bones.
their national identity, the place
allows visitors to catch a glimpse
of daily life in the old days.

P Casino
Pl du Casino. Tel 00 377 98 06 21 75.
Open from 2pm daily. & 7
∑ [Link]
Renovated in 1878 by Charles
Garnier (see p55), the casino sits
on a terrace with superb views
of Monaco. Its interior is still
decorated in belle époque
é style.
Roulette is played in the opulent
Salle Médecin, blackjack in The casino’s magnificent Salle Médecin
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 MONACO  99

f Peillon
Road map F3. * 1,449. n 4 carriera
Centrale (06 24 97 42 25)
∑ [Link]

At a level of 373 m (1,225 ft), this

pretty village perché is said by
locals to mark the extremity of the
inhabited world. Its streets are
stepped and narrow, with houses
that have scarcely changed since
the Middle Ages. There is an attrac­
tive cobbled square with fine
views, and the 18th­century parish
church has an unusual octagonal
lantern. But most impressive of
all are Giovanni Canavesio’s fres­ The Gorges de la Vésubie in the pine-forested Vallée de la Vésubie
coes in the Chapelle des Pénitents
Blancs. Peillon is ideally placed altarpiece by Honoré Bertone. j Vallée de la
for woodland walks leading The Hôtel de Ville is in the domed Vésubie
to both Peille and La Turbie. 18th­century former Chapelle
k Nice. @ St­Martin­Vésubie.
de St­Sébastien, and there is
n Hotel de Ville, St­Martin­Vésubie
a museum in rue de la Turbie.
(04 93 03 60 10). ∑ vesubie-
[Link]
h Lucéram Some of the most attractive
landscape around Nice can be
Road map F3. * 1,234. @
n Maison de Pays, Pl Adrien Barralis uncovered and enjoyed in the
(04 93 79 46 50). ∑ [Link] valley of the river Vésubie, with
its dense pine forests, alpine
In the midst of this pretty, Italianate pastures, peaks and cascades. The
village is the tiled roof of the 15th­ river rises high in the snowy Alps
century Eglise Ste­Marguerite, which near the Italian border, courses
contains art by Nice’s Primitive past Roquebillière to the west of
masters, notably Louis Bréa, the the Parc National du Mercantour
artist of the 10­panelled altarpiece, (see p101) and dives through
who made Lucéram a centre for the Gorges de la Vésubie before
religious painting. Other treasures entering the river Var, 24 km
Ancient arch across a narrow street include a silver statue of the (15 miles) north of Nice airport.
in Peillon Tarascon dragon and Ste Marguerite The Vésubie is created from
(see p144). The church is the setting the Madone de Fenestre and the
for a Christmas service, where Boréon torrents, which meet at
g Peille shepherds, accompanied by St­Martin­Vésubie. This popular
Road map F3. * 2,343. @ n 15 rue
flutes and tambourines, bring summer mountaineering centre
Centrale (04 93 82 14 40). ∑ [Link] lambs and fruit as offerings. is surrounded by waterfalls,
summits and lakes. In its fine
Peille is a charming medieval 17th­century church is a
village with a view from its war 12th­century statue of Notre­
memorial across the Peillon Valley Dame­de­Fenestre. Each year
and as far as the Baie des Anges. this statue is carried to the
Behind the village looms the Chapelle de la Madone de
vast Pic de Baudon, rising to Fenestre, 12 km (8 miles) to
1,264 m (4,160 ft). the east, for a three­month stay.
The town is full of cobbled The Gorges de la Vésubie
alleys and covered passages. begins at St­Jean­la­Rivière, and
At the end of place A­Laugier, there is a spectacular panorama
beyond a Gothic fountain, two at la Madonne d’Utelle, above
arches beneath a house rest the fortified village of Utelle.
on a Romanesque pillar. In places, the dramatic gorge,
The Counts of Provence were etched with coloured rock,
lords of the castle, and the 12th­ runs up to 244 m (800 ft) deep.
century church of Ste­Marie has a Sadly, the road beside it has
picture of Peille in the Middle Ages. Italian-style houses in Lucéram, set few stopping places from
There is also a fine 16th­century between two ravines which to admire the view.
100  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Skiing in the Alpes d’Azur

Provence offers a wide range of skiing activities in the Alpes d’Azur. Around one hour
from the coast, in breathtaking mountain scenery, there are more than 20 resorts,
with over 250 ski-runs. The après-ski includes ice-skating, riding on snowmobiles and
a chance to sample traditional Alpine food such as delicious raclette melted cheese.
In summer, Auron and Isola 2000, resorts in the Parc National du Mercantour, offer
swimming, cycling and horse-riding in dramatically contrasting surroundings to
the Côte d’Azur.

I TA LY
Auron
Isola 2000
Valberg

Monaco
Nice
Cannes

Auron
Snowbound Valberg, a winter resort since 1935
Altitude 1,600 m (5,250 ft) –
2,100 m (6,890 ft).
Location 97 km (60 miles) from Nice
via RN 202 and D 2205.
Ski Runs 43 runs – 9 black, 15 red,
16 blue, 3 green.
Ski Lifts 20 including 8 chair lifts and
3 cable cars.

Isola 2000
Altitude 2,000 m (5,250 ft) –
2,310 m (7,584 ft).
Location 90 km (56 miles) from Getting ready for a few hours of
Nice via RN 202, D 2205 and D 97. snow-shoe trekking
Ski Runs 42 runs – 3 black, 11 red,
21 blue, 7 green.
Alpine
Isola 2000

Ski Lifts 22 including 2 cable cars and

Valberg
Auron

9 chairlifts. Funicular railway. Activities

Valberg • • • Cross-country skiing
Altitude 1,500 m (4,921 ft) – • • • Disabled skiing
2,100 m (6,890 ft). • • Horse riding
Location 86 km (51 miles) from Nice • • Horse-driven buggy
via RN 202, CD 28, CD 202 or CD 30. rides
Ski Runs 56 runs – 6 black, 28 red, Climbing a frozen waterfall, or • Ice circuit driving
10 blue, 12 green. “frozen fall climbing”, in one of • • • Ice skating
Ski Lifts 23 including 6 chair lifts. the many alpine resorts • • Kart Cross on ice
• • Mono-skiing
• • Night skiing
• Skijoring
• • Ski jumping
• • • Ski school
• • • Ski touring
• • • Snowboarding
• Snow scooter
circuits
• • • Snow-shoe trekking
• Speed ski school
• • • Aquatic centre/pool,
sauna and Jacuzzi
Snowboarding in the alpine resort of Isola 2000

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  101

k Forêt de Turini
Road map F3. £ l’Escarène, Sospel.
@ Moulinet, Sospel. n La Bollène
(04 93 03 60 54).

Between the warm coast and the

chilly Alps, from the Gorges de
la Vésubie to the Vallée de la
Bévéra, lies this humid, 3,497-sq
km (1,350-sq mile) forest. Beech,
maple and sweet chestnut thrive
here, and pines grow to great
heights. At the forest’s north-
eastern edge is the 1,889-m
(6,197-ft) mountain of l’Authion,
site of heavy fighting in the
German retreat of 1945. Casualties
are recorded on a war memorial.
The neighbouring Pointe des
Trois-Communes, at 2,082 m
(6,830 ft), offers superb views Walkers above Lake Allos, Parc National du Mercantour
of the pre-Alps of Nice and
the peaks of the Mercantour remains of the castle of Lascaris’ x Saorge
national park. feudal lords, near the cemetery Road map F3. * 450. £ n La
above the town. Tende’s unusual Mairie, Avenue Docteur Joseph
towers include that of the
l Le Parc National 15th-century church of Notre-
Davéo (04 93 04 51 23). ∑ [Link]

du Mercantour Dame-de-l’Assomption. Lions Saorge is the prettiest spot in

Road map E2 & F2. £ Nice.
support the pillars around the the Roya Valley. Set in a natural
@ St Etienne de Tinée, Auron. Renaissance doorway and there amphitheatre high over the river,
n Maison du Parc, St Etienne de Tinée are green schist columns inside. its slate-roofed houses are tiered
(04 93 02 42 27). ∑ [Link] The Vallée des Merveilles, between narrow alleys, in the
the most spectacular part of style of a typical stacked village
Scoured by icy glaciers and Mercantour national park, can or village empilé.
bristling with rocky summits, be visited with a guide. For Olive-wood carvings are
this sparsely populated park information, contact the tourist traditional, and carved lintels
covers 70,000 ha (270 sq miles). office at Tende or St-Dalmas. date many houses to the 15th
Among its unusual wildlife The most direct route starts century, when Saorge was a
are the chamois, the ibex from Lac des Mesches car park. stronghold. It was taken by the
and the mouflon, a sheep A two-and-a-half-hour walk French under Masséna in 1794.
which originated in leads to Lac Long and Le Churches range from the dank
Corsica. Sometimes visible Refuge des Merveilles. The 15th-century St-Sauveur with
in the mornings is the Mont Bégo area has 36,000 an Italian organ to the Baroque
marmot, a rodent which is engravings, dating from church of the Franciscan monas-
prey to golden eagles, and 2,000 BC, carved into the tery and the octagonal tower
the exotic lammergeier, rock face. They reveal a and Renaissance frescoes of La
a bearded vulture with Bronze Age culture of Madone-del-Poggio (open during
orange-red feathers and Tower at shepherds and farmers. European Heritage days only).
black wings. There are also Tende In Tende, the Musée des
many brightly coloured Merveilles is worth a visit.
butterflies and alpine flowers. Southeast of Tende, there are
fine paintings in the church at
La Brigue. Jean Canavesio’s
z Tende 15th-century frescoes of
Road map F2. * 2,200. £ n 103
La Passion du Christ, and the
ave 16 Sep 1947 (04 93 04 73 71). lurid Judas pendu are in the
( Wed. ∑ [Link] nearby Chapelle Notre-Dame-
des-Fontaines.
Sombre Tende once guarded the
mountain pass connecting Pied- E Musée des Merveilles
mont and Provence, now bypas- Ave du 16 Septembre 1947. Tel 04
sed by a tunnel. Its tall, green 93 04 32 50. Open Wed–Mon.
schist buildings appear piled on Closed public hols, 2 weeks View of Saorge from the Franciscan
top of each other. Only a wall mid-Mar & mid-Nov. 7 = monastery terrace
102  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

c Sospel
Road map F3. * 3,650. £ @
n 19 ave Jean Medecin (04 93 04
15 80). ( Thu, Sun. ∑ sospel-
[Link]

This charming resort has a

13th-century toll tower, which
was restored after bomb
damage in World War II, when
the town’s bravery earned it the
Croix de Guerre. Fort St-Roch,
built in 1932 as protection
against a possible Italian Early morning Gorbio, surrounded by olive groves
invasion, has a museum
with exhibits on the Maginot has a conical belfry, a typical bought the château in 1911
line. The church of St-Michel feature of the region. Each June a and added a mock medieval
contains one of François Bréa’s procession marks the Penitents’ tour anglaise.
best works, and has a lovely ritual, when the village lanes At the turn of the century,
façade, as does the Palais twinkle with the lights from oil Cap Martin was the Côte d’Azur’s
Ricci. The interior of the White lamps made from snail shells. smartest resort, attracting the
Penitent chapel is magnificent. A good hour’s walk from era’s glitterati. Empératrice
Gorbio is Ste-Agnès, at 671 m Eugénie, wife of Napoléon III,
E Musée Maginot de la Seconde (2,200 ft) it is the highest village wintered here. Winston Churchill,
Guerre Mondiale perché on the coast. Coco Chanel and Irish poet
Fort St-Roch. Tel 04 93 04 00 70. W B Yeats also visited. Architect
Open Apr–Jun & Sep: Sat, Sun & public Le Corbusier, who drowned off
hols pm; Jul & Aug: Tue–Sun pm. & b Roquebrune- the cape in 1965, has a coastal
Cap-Martin path named after him.
Road map F3. * 12,800. £ @
A number of important pre-
n 218 ave Aristide Briand (04 93 35 historic remains have been found
62 87). ( Wed. ∑ rcm-tourisme. around Roquebrune, some in caves
com such as the Grotte du Vallonet.
Just outside the village, on the
Roquebrune is said to have Menton road, is the olivier millénaire,
the earliest feudal château in one of the oldest olive trees
France, the sole example of the in the world, which is believed
Carolingian style. Built in the to be at least 1,000 years old.
10th century by Conrad I, Count Every August since 1467,
of Ventimiglia, to ward off in gratitude for being spared
Saracen attack, it was later from the plague, Roquebrune’s
Impressive trompe l’oeil façades of houses remodelled by the Grimaldis inhabitants take part in scenes
in Sospel (see p95). Wealthy Englishman from the Passion (see p37).
Sir William Ingram, one of the
first wave of tourist residents, + Château Grimaldi de
v Gorbio Roquebrune
Pl William Ingram Tel 04 93 35 07 22.
Road map F3. * 1,300. @ n La Open daily. Closed Fri (Nov–Dec),
Mairie, 30 rue Garibaldi (04 92 10 66 50). public hols. &
More than a thousand species
of flowers have been identified
in the sunny Gorbio valley, which n Menton
produces vegetables, as well as Road map F3. * 29,670. £ @
fruit, wine and oil. Until the last n Palais de l’Europe, 8 ave Boyer
century the area was entirely (04 92 41 76 76). ( Tue–Sun.
supported by its olive production. ∑ [Link]
Often shrouded in mist in
the mornings, Gorbio itself is a Just a mile from the border,
village perché (see pp24–5), with Menton is the most Italian of
sea views. The old Malaussène the French resorts. Tucked in by
fountain stands by the entrance mountains, it is a sedate town
to the narrow cobbled lanes, with a Baroque square and a
and an elm tree in the square View of Château Grimaldi de Roquebrune, promenade stretching towards
was planted in 1713. The church overlooking Cap Martin Cap Martin.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp198–9 and pp208–11
 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES  103

Menton has several fine tropical

gardens, and citrus fruits thrive
Jean Cocteau (1889–1963)
in a climate mild enough for the Born near Paris in 1889, Cocteau
lemon festival in February (see spent much of his very public
p39). The Palais de l’Europe of life around the Côte d’Azur. A
the belle époque
é (1909), once a man of powerful intellect and
casino, now a cultural centre, is great élan, he became a
beside the Jardin Biovès. The member of the Académie
Jardin Botanique Exotique Française in 1955. Among
has tropical plants and is in the other talents, Cocteau was a
dramatist (La Machine Infernale,
grounds of Villa Val Rahmeh.
1934); the writer of Les Enfants
Above the town is the Jardin Terribles (1929), and a surrealist
des Colombières designed by film director. Orphée (1950) was
artist and writer Ferdinand Bac partly shot against the barren
(1859–1952). This private garden landscape at Les Baux (see p146).
reputedly has France’s oldest He died before his museum Mosaic at the entrance of the Musée
carob tree and can be visited opened in 1967. Jean Cocteau in Menton
in the summer by appointment.
The jetties offer good views
of the old town, and steps lead century Italian, French and Flemish 17th-century fort into his
to Parvis St-Michel, a fine square art, and works by Utrillo and Dufy. museum. He designed the
paved with the Grimaldi coat of mosaic on the ground floor,
arms, where summer concerts P Salle des Mariages and donated his first tapestry
are held. To the left side are Mairie de Menton, Pl Ardoino. and other pieces.
the twin towers of the Baroque Tel 04 92 10 50 00. Open Mon–Fri.
Basilica St-Michel, its main Closed public hols. & Z Cimetière du Vieux-
altarpiece by Manchello (1565). Jean Cocteau decorated this Château
Behind the marina is Garavan room in 1957 with colourful Rue du Vieux-Château. Tel 04 93 57
where New Zealand writer images of a fisherman and his 95 99.
Katherine Mansfield lived, in the bride, and the less happy story Each terrace of this former castle
Villa Isola Bella, from 1920–22. of Orpheus and Eurydice, and site accommodates a separate
Provençal motifs such as using faith. Webb Ellis, inventor of rugby,
E Musée des Beaux-Arts a fish for a fisherman’s eye. is buried here, as is Rasputin’s
Palais Carnolès, 3 ave de la Madone. assassin, Prince Youssoupov.
Tel 04 93 35 49 71. Open Wed–Mon. E Musée Jean Cocteau –
Closed public hols. = Collection Severin E Musée de Préhistoire
The 17th-century palace, Wundermun Régionale
now Menton’s main art 2 quai de Monléon. Tel 04 89 81 Rue Loredan Larchey. Tel 04 93 35 84 64.
museum, was once the summer 52 50. Open Wed–Mon. Closed 1 Jan, Open Wed–Mon. Closed public hols.
residence of the princes of 1 May, 1 Nov, 25 Dec. & The museum’s fine local history
Monaco. It has paintings by ∑ [Link] and archaeological pieces
Graham Sutherland (1903–80), Cocteau supervised the include the skull of 30,000-
an honorary citizen, 13th- to 18th- conversion of this former year-old “Grimaldi Man”.

View over Menton from Ferdinand Bac’s Jardin des Colombières

 PROVENCE AREA BY AREA  105

THE VAR AND THE

ILES D’HYÈRES
The Var is a region of rolling lands, rocky hills, thick forests
and swathes of vineyards. To the north, Provençal villages
are thinly scattered by mountain streams, on hilltops
and in valleys; to the south, a series of massifs slope
down to the coast making this stretch of the Côte
d’Azur the most varied and delightful shore in France.

The A8 autoroute runs through the centre Riviera. The more remote areas to the
of the Var, dividing it roughly into two north of the autoroute have always
sections. To the south of this artery the provided a retreat from the bustling
influence of the sea is unmistakable. activity of the coast. This is where the
Toulon, the departmental capital, Cistercians built their austere Abbaye du
occupies a fine deep-water harbour that Thoronet. Today visitors escape inland
is home to the French Mediterranean from the summer traffic around St-Tropez
fleet. Beyond it are the pleasant resorts to the sparsely populated Haut Var, where
of Bandol and Sanary, where Jacques towns seem to grow from tufa rock.
Cousteau first put scuba-diving to the Highlights include wines from the
test. To the east are the sandy beaches Côtes de Provence, and fresh tuna from
beneath the great slab of the Massif des quayside restaurants. Music enthusiasts
Maures. The Var’s most famous resort, should spare time to hear both the
St-Tropez, facing north in the crook of organ at St-Maximin-la-Ste-Baume,
a bay, lies in a glorious landscape of Provence’s finest Gothic building, and
vineyards. Beyond it, just past Fréjus, the the string quartets at the festival in the
first Roman settlement in Gaul, the land hill towns near Fayence. Visitors can
turns blood red in the twinkling inlets and also go walking, sailing and sunbathing,
coves below the beautiful Corniche de and enjoy a rich collection of museums
l’Esterel, which heads east towards the and architecture.

Sunrise over the boats in St-Tropez harbour

The meandering Corniche de l’Esterel, St-Raphaël
106  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Var and the Iles d’Hyères

The Var département covers about 6,000 sq km (2,300 sq miles). It combines
a stunning coastline sprinkled with red cliffs, delightful bays and the Iles
d’Hyères, which spill out from its southernmost point, with dramatic chains
of hills, rising up behind the coast and further inland. The slopes of the Massif
des Maures and the Haut Var are home to a fascinating array of flora and
fauna, as well as to the many producers of Côtes-de-Provence wines.

n Riez
Ve rd o Gréoux-les-Bains

Quinson

View of the Abbaye du Thoronet

Montmeyan

Sights at a Glance Rians

Varages
Tavernes
1 Barjols s Ramatuelle
2 Haut Var d St-Tropez pp122–6 BARJOLS
3 Comps-sur-Artuby f Port-Grimaud
4 Mons g Grimaud Brue-Auriac Cotignac
5 Fayence h Ste-Maxime Aix-en-Provence
6 Bargemon j St-Raphaël
A r g ens
7 Draguignan k Massif de l’Esterel
8 Les-Arcs-sur-Argens l Fréjus ST-MAXIMIN-
LA-STE-BAUME
9 Lorgues
Tours Tourves
0 Abbaye du Thoronet
w Brignoles q Côtes de Provence
BRIGNOLES
e St-Maximin-la-Ste-Baume a Massif des Maures
Aubagne
pp114–15
r Bandol Forcalqueiret

t Sanary-sur-Mer La Roquebrussanne
y Toulon pp116–17
Signes
u Iles d’Hyères pp118–19
i Hyères
o Le Lavandou
p Bormes-les-Mimosas Cuers
Marseille Le
Beausset
Solliès-Pont

Key Parc Animalier &

Exotique Sanary-Bandol
Motorway
La Crau
HYÈRES
BANDOL
Major road
Secondary road SANARY-SUR-MER TOULON
Minor road La Seyne-
Six-Fours-
Scenic route les-Plages sur-Mer
Main railway Notre-Dame-
Giens
Cap Sicié du-Mai
Minor railway
Regional border
Summit
0 kilometres 10

0 miles 10

For additional map symbols see back flap

 THE VAR AND THE ILES D’HYERES  107

Getting Around
The uplands of the Maures and
Esterel force the A8 auto route
and DN7 road inland, leaving
the coast to the more scenic
routes: the Corniche d’Or
in the Massif de l’Esterel is
one of France’s loveliest. The
combination of stunning views
and tight bends means you
should allow plenty of time
Les Issambres beach, north of Ste-Maxime for your journey. The unspoiled
Haut Var is easy to get to by
Le Logis- car. Alternatively, the railway
du-Pin reaches as far as Les-Arcs-sur-
Ve uby
rdo Trigance Art Argens, from where you can
n
Lac de Bargème explore the region by bus.
Ste-Croix
Comps-sur-Artuby is a good
COMPS-SUR- tour base for the Gorges du
ARTUBY
Verdon (see pp188–9).
MONS

St-Cézaire-
R sur-Siagne
Moissac- VA BARGEMON
T Grasse
Bellevue HAU Châteaudouble FAYENCE
Aups Callas Lac de
Tourtour St-Paul- St-Cassien
en-Forêt
Pierre de la Fée Cannes
Salernes Villecroze
DRAGUIGNAN
Flayosc
Entrecasteaux Mont Vinaigre
620m
LORGUES Le Muy SSIF
Puget-sur- MA
TEREL
Carcès
Argenas
ABBAYE DU NC
E LES-ARCS-SUR- E L'ES Pic de Cap Roux
THORONET O VE ARGENS D 452m
P R FRÉJUS
E SAINT- Agay
CÔTES D Vidauban RAPHAËL
Cabasse Fréjus-Plage
Le Luc s
re
V A R
Saint-Aygulf
au
M
Besse-sur- Les Issambres
S

Issole
RE

La Garde Freinet
SAINTE-MAXIME
AU
M

Notre-Dame- PORT-GRIMAUD
S

GRIMAUD
DE

des-Anges
SAINT-
TROPEZ
IF

Chartreuse de Cogolin
SS

la Verne Moulins de Paillas

A

Collobrières 322m
M

La Cap Camarat
Môle RAMATUELLE
Cavalaire-
BORMES-LES- sur-Mer
MIMOSAS
LE LAVANDOU
Port-de-
Miramar
Cap Benat

R
D'HYÈ ES
S
ÎLE Île du
Levant
Porquerolles
Île de Île de
Porquerolles Port Cros
A narrow street in
St-Tropez old town
108  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

porticoes, particularly on the

Renaissance Hôtel de Pontevès,
add spice to some otherwise
drab streets.

2 Haut Var
Road map D3. k Toulon-Hyères,
Nice. £ Les Arcs. @ Aups. n Pl
Martin Bidoure, Aups (04 94 84 00 69).
∑ [Link]

The most remote and unspoiled

lands of the Var are situated
between Barjols and Comps-
A traditional flute-maker at work in Barjols sur-Artuby, up towards the
Gorges du Verdon (see pp188–9).
1 Barjols Much of the land near here has View of Entrecasteaux château near
Road map D4. * 3,135. @ n Blvd
been taken over by the military. Cotignac, Haut Var
Grisolle (04 94 77 20 01). ( Sun. Aups, set among undulating
∑ [Link]/ot_barjols hills on the plateau edge, is the South from Aups is Villecroze.
region’s centre. Epicureans may The town is set against a
Once renowned for its seething be drawn by the local honey, natural backdrop of caves on
tanneries, Barjols lies peacefully olive oil and the truffle market three levels, which local lords
among woods and fast-flowing each Thursday morning in in the 16th century turned
streams. In 1983, after almost winter. It is an attractive town into dwellings, known as the
400 years, the leather industry with a grand old square and Grottes Troglodytiques. The
finally folded. The many aban- castle ruins. The 15th-century arcaded streets and the keep
doned factories have become St-Pancrace church has a of the feudal castle give the
bustling artisans’ studios. Renaissance doorway. Also town a medieval flavour. A
Today, it is these local crafts- worth a visit is the Musée short drive from Villecroze leads
men who bring manufacturing Simon Segal, which is housed up to the hill village of Tourtour,
acclaim to the area. Two in a former Ursuline convent. a smaller, prettier and more
traditional Provençal instru- The museum contains works popular place. Renowned
ments, the three-holed flute by Segal and Paris painters, French expressionist painter
(galoubet) and the narrow as well as local scenes. Bernard Buffet lived his last days
drums (tambourins), were still About 5 km (3 miles) north- here. Two of his creations – large,
made in Barjols until recently. west on the D9 is the village of metal-built insect sculptures
These instruments resound Moissac-Bellevue. Many of its are still displayed in the village.
each January at the annual fête buildings date from the 16th The valley town of Salernes
of St-Marcel, the town’s patron and 17th centuries and its lies in the opposite direction,
saint. About every four years church was mentioned in 10 km (6 miles) west on the
the ceremony includes the a papal edict of 1225. D51. Smoke pumps from the
slaughter and roasting of an ox
in the square. This is followed by
a colourful “tripe dance” inside
and outside the 11th-century
church of Notre-Dame-de-
l’Assomption, where St-Marcel’s
relics can be seen. The ceremony
commemorates the survival of
the town after a siege in 1350.
For information about roastings
contact the tourist office.
Of the many stone fountains
dotted around the town, the
most famous is the mossy
Champignon in place Capitaine
Vincens. It stands under what is
reputed to be the largest plane
tree in Provence. Between the
church and the old tanneries
are the restored buildings of
the old quartier du Réal. Exotic Troglodyte dwellings in Villecroze
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp199–200 and pp211–12
 THE VAR AND THE ILES D’HYERES  109

4 Mons
Road map E3. * 885. @
n Pl St Sébastien (04 94 76 39 54).

Dramatically situated on a rock-

spur, Mons, with its tiny lanes
and overhanging arches, has
an almost magical appeal. The
place St-Sébastien looks out
across the entire coast, from
Italy to Toulon.
Originally a Celtic-Ligurian
The 110 m (361 ft) Artuby bridge spanning the Canyon du Verdon settlement, its Château-Vieux
quarter dates from the 10th
kilns of its 15 ceramic factories. 3 Comps-sur- century, but it was mainly built
Salernes is one of the best- Artuby by Genoese who repopulated
known Provençal tile-making the village after ravages by the
centres, noted for tomettes – Road map D3. * 338. @ n 2 ave plague in the 14th century. The
hexagonal terracotta floor-tiles. Lazare Carnot, Draguignan (04 98 10 first families came in 1461 from
Cotignac, west of Salernes, 51 05). Figounia near Ventimiglia; their
is an echo of Villecroze, with legacy is the local dialect, figoun,
a cave-pocked cliff behind it. The eastern approach to the which still survives thanks to the
Behind the mairie, a river springs Gorges du Verdon (see pp188–9) unusually isolated position of the
from the rocks and beyond is passes through Comps-sur- village. Nearby is the roche taillée,
an open-air theatre. Artuby. The village nestles at a Roman aqueduct carved from
The region’s most intriguing the foot of a rock topped by the solid rock. There are also many
château is Entrecasteaux, 13th-century chapel of St-André, dolmens in the surrounding area.
15 km (8 miles) east of Cotignac. which has been restored. From
The 17th-century castle is filled the church there are grand
with the present owner’s 17th- views of the Artuby Gorges.
to 18th-century collection of To the east lies Bargème,
paintings, artifacts, tapestries a village of steep streets and
and furniture. The garden, by hollyhocks with a population
Le Nôtre, is publicly owned. of just 86. At 1,094 m (3,589 ft)
it is the highest community
E Musée Simon Segal in the Var. The village itself is
Rue Albert Premier, Aups. Tel 04 94 70 closed to all traffic.
01 95. Open Jun–Sep: Wed–Mon. Dominating Bargème is
P Grottes Troglodytiques a large, partially ruined but
Villecroze. Tel 04 94 70 63 06. Open Apr– nevertheless remarkably well
Jun: Fri–Mon; Jul–Sep: daily. & preserved 14th-century castle.
P Château d’Entrecasteaux
Also worth a visit is the 13th-
83570 Entrecasteaux. Tel 04 94 04 century Romanesque Eglise
43 95. Open Easter–mid-Jun: Sun & St-Nicolas which contains a
public hols; mid-Jun–Sep: Sun–Fri. & carved, wooden altarpiece One of the quiet streets of the picturesque
8 ∑ [Link] depicting Saint Sebastian. village of Mons

Truffles
This richly flavoured and treasured
fungal delicacy of the Var is trad-
itionally sniffed out by trained
pigs. The golfball-sized truffles are
collected during the winter, when
they are at their most fragrant,
from underground near the
roots of oak trees. Local markets
specialize in truffles when they
are in season, though their rarity
means that they tend to be
very expensive.

A trained pig hunting for truffles

110  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

View over Bargemon’s terracotta rooftops to the wooded hills beyond

5 Fayence Part modelled on the Cadet 6 Bargemon

Road map E3. * 5,500. @ n Pl
school in St Petersburg, it was
constructed in 1824 for General Road map E3. * 1,550. £ Les Arcs.
Léon Roux (04 94 76 20 08). ( Tue,
Alexandre Fabre, who once @ n Ave Pasteur (04 94 47 81 73).
Thu, Sat. ∑ [Link]
worked as a military engineer ( Thu. ∑ [Link]
The hillside town of Fayence for Tsar Alexander I of Russia.
is the largest between He originally intended to make This medieval village, fortified in
Draguignan and Grasse and is the building a public museum, AD 950, has three 12th­century
an international centre for local but failed to finish the task gates and a tower from the mid­
crafts as well as gliding. Domi­ and so it remains private. 16th­century. The village is laid out
nated by a wrought­iron clock There are a number of around a number of squares with
tower, it still has a few remains attractive villages nearby. fountains, shaded by plane trees.
of its 14th­century defences Among the best are Callian The angels’ heads on the high
including a Saracen­style gate. and Montauroux to the east altar of the 15th­century church,
The Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste and Seillans, 5 km (3 miles) St-Etienne, now the Musée­
was built in the 18th century to the west, where the Galerie Honoré Camos, are
with a baroque marble altar German­born painter Max attributed to the school of Pierre
(1757) by a local mason, Ernst (1891–1976) chose Puget, like those in the Chapelle
Dominique Fossatti. Its terrace to spend his last years. The Notre-Dame-de-Montaigu
offers a sweeping view over prestigious Musique en Pays above the town. The chapel also
the town’s glider airfield. de Fayence festival in October contains an oak­wood carving
On the hillside opposite, brings string quartets who of the Virgin brought here in
in the community of Tourettes, perform in some of the 1635. The Fossil and Mineral
there is a striking château. charming local churches. Museum on rue de la Résistance
displays over 3,000 pieces.
Traditional Pottery and Crafts
Cotignac, Aups and Salernes are at the centre of an 7 Draguignan
exciting revitalization of Provençal crafts, which
includes weaving, pottery, stone and wood carving. Road map D4. * 38,317. @ n 2 ave
A regional speciality is hand­crafted domestic Lazare Carnot (04 98 10 51 05). ( Wed,
pottery made using traditional techniques and Sat. ∑ [Link]
designs, as well as local clays in a wonderful
variety of colours. Examples of all these During the day, the former
crafts can be found in small shops and capital of the Var département has
studios, or craft fairs and local markets.
the busy air of a small market
There are good buys to be had, but
town. At night, however, the only
do shop around to avoid being
unknowingly overcharged. sign of life is groups of young
people in the place des Herbes.
A Provençal potter at work Baron Haussmann, planner
of modern Paris, laid out
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp199–200 and pp211–12
 THE VAR AND THE ILES D’HYERES  111

Draguignan’s 19th-century
boulevards. At the end of his
plane-tree-lined allées d’Azémar,
there is a Rodin bust of the prime
minister Georges Clemenceau
(1841–1929) who represented
Draguignan for 25 years.
The main interest lies in the
pedestrianized old town. Its
24-m (79-ft) clockless clock
tower, built in 1663, stands on
the site of the original keep
and there is a good view from
its wrought-iron campanile.
The Eglise St-Michel, in the
place de la Paroisse, contains a Pierre de la Fée, the giant dolmen outside Draguignan
statue of St Hermentaire, first
bishop of Antibes. In the 5th 8 Les-Arcs-sur- after Roseline de Villeneuve,
century he slew a local dragon, Argens daughter of Arnaud de
giving the town its name. Villeneuve, Baron of Arcs.
Draguignan has two good Road map D4. * 7,153. £ @ Legend has it that when
local museums. The Musée des n Place du Général de Gaulle Roseline’s father stopped her
Arts et Traditions Provençales (04 94 73 37 30). ( Thu. while taking food to the poor,
is concerned with the region’s ∑ [Link] her provisions turned into roses.
social and economic She entered the abbey in 1300
history. It occupies Wine centre for the Côtes de and later became its abbess.
buildings that date Provence (see pp112–3), Les Arcs The Romanesque Chapelle
back to the 17th cen- has a medieval quarter, Le Parage, Ste-Roseline contains the well-
tury. Regional country based around the 13th-century preserved body of the saint in
life is illustrated Château de Villeneuve. The Eglise a glass shrine. There is also a
using reconstructed St-Jean-Baptiste (1850), in the famous Chagall mosaic (see p31).
kitchens and barns. rue de la République, contains
Exhibits include beau- a screen by Louis Bréa (1501). R Chapelle Ste-Roseline
tiful hand-painted East of Les Arcs on the D91 RD 91, Les Arcs-sur-Argens. Tel 04 94
wooden horses. is the 11th-century Abbaye de 73 37 30. Open Tue–Sun pm.
The Musée Ste-Roseline, which was named Closed mid-Dec–Jan, public hols. 7
Municipal d’Art et
d’Histoire shows
local and regional
St Hermentaire archaeology as
slaying the dragon well as eye-catching
collections of both
ceramics and furniture. The
adjoining library houses a
lavishly illuminated 14th-century
manuscript of the Roman de
la Rose, considered to be the
most important book of courtly
love (see p146) in France (by
appointment only).
Northwest of the town
on the D955 is the enormous
prehistoric dolmen Pierre de
la Fée, or Fairy Stone (see p43).

E Musée des Arts et Traditions

Provençales
15 rue Joseph-Roumanille.
Tel 04 94 47 05 72. Open Tue–Sat.
Closed 1 May, 25 Dec. & = 7 ltd.
E Musée Municipal d’Art et
d’Histoire
9 rue de la République. Tel 04 98 10
26 85. Closed for restoration until
2020. 7 Mosaic by Marc Chagall (1887–1985) in the Chapelle Ste-Roseline
112  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

9 Lorgues 0 Abbaye du with the two Romanesque

Road map D4. * 9,341. @ Thoronet abbeys of Sénanque (see
n 12 rue du 8 mai (04 94 73 92 37). pp168–9) and Silvacane (see
Road map D4. 83340 Le Thoronet.
( Tue. ∑ [Link] p151), it is known as one of
Tel 04 94 60 43 90. Open daily.
the three “Cistercian sisters”
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov,
Nestling on a slope beneath oak of Provence.
25 Dec. & 7 restricted. 8 =
and pine woodland, Lorgues is The cool geometry of the
surrounded by vineyards and Founded in 1146, Le Thoronet church, cloister, dormitory
olive groves. Its old town was was the first Cistercian and chapter house reflects
fortified in the 12th century. building in Provence. Lost in the austerity of Cistercian
Today, two 14th-century gates deep woodland, it occupies principles. Only the bell tower
and city wall remains can be seen. a typically remote site. Along breaks with the order’s strict
The town centre’s handsome building regulations: instead
square is shaded by a large plane of wood, it is made of stone,
tree. Lorgues has many 18th- to enable it to withstand the
century municipal buildings and strong Provençal winds.
monuments and one of France’s Dilapidated by the
longest plane-tree avenues. 1400s, the abbey was finally
In the centre of town is the abandoned in 1791. Its
stately Collégiale St-Martin, restoration, like that of many
consecrated in 1788. Its organ, medieval Provençal buildings,
dating from 1857, is the finest was instigated by Prosper
example of the work of the Mérimée, Romantic novelist
Augustin Zeiger factory, Lyon. and Napoleon III’s Inspector
Also on display is a marble of Historic Monuments,
Virgin and Child (1694) which who visited in 1834.
came from the Abbaye du Just beside the abbey is the
Thoronet and is attributed Graceful cloisters on the north side of the modern Monastère de Bethléem,
to the school of Pierre Puget. Abbaye du Thoronet home to Cistercian nuns.

6 Entrecasteaux
q Côtes de Provence Tour From Entrecasteaux, dominated
by its huge 17th-century château,
The Côtes de Provence wine-growing region reaches follow signs for Les Saigues to find
from the Haut Var to the coast. Dozens of roadside Château Mentone, which Les
vineyards offer tastings and a chance to buy. This rural produces organic wines. Saigues
route suggests a few accessible and well-regarded Château
Mentone
producers, starting at the Maison des Vins in Les Arcs.
Here you can find out about local wines, plot your own
route, buy wine from the producers, and even book to
stay at a vineyard. The tour passes a few interesting
towns en route. For more information on the
region’s wines, see pages 206–7.

Arg
ens

Tips for Drivers Domaine de

l’Abbaye
Tour length: 100 km (62 miles).
Stopping-off points: The Maison
des Vins should be your first
stopping point – it is open all 4 Le Thoronet
day. Around the route motorists The Domaine de l’Abbaye
should have no difficulty in vineyard is named after Le
spotting places to stop and Thoronet’s beautiful abbey.
sample, though many of the wine
producers close between noon 5 Carcès
and 2pm. The Lac de Carcès As you head north, the Lac de Key
makes a good place for a picnic. Carcès is on the left in a steep
(See also pp250–51.) valley. The town’s castle remains Tour route
and gardens are worth seeing. Other roads

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp199–200 and pp211–12
 THE VAR AND THE ILES D’HYERES  113

La Gayole sarcophagus, dating from the 2nd or 3rd century, in the Musée du Pays Brignolais

w Brignoles delight is the Musée du Pays bishop of Toulouse and patron

Brignolais in a 12th-century of Brignoles, was born in
Road map D4. * 16,881. @
castle that was built as a a palace beside the Eglise
n Carrefour de l’Europe (04 94 72
summer retreat for the Counts St-Sauveur in 1274. The church
04 21). ( Sat. ∑ ot-brignoles.
[Link]
of Provence. The eclectic has a 12th-century portico and
collection includes La Gayole a side entrance in the rue du
Bauxite mines have stained the marble sarcophagus, which is Grand Escalier.
Brignoles countryside red: vital carved with images in both the
to the region’s economy, over pagan and Christian traditions; E Musée du Pays Brignolais
a million tonnes of metal are a boat made of cement 2 place des Comtes de Provence.
mined here annually. The designed by J Lambot (1814–87), Tel 04 94 69 45 18. Open Apr–
medieval town remains above who gave the world reinforced Sep: Wed–Sun; Oct–Mar: Wed–Sat.
it all, quiet and empty for most concrete; and a collection of Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 1 Nov,
of the year. An unexpected votive offerings. St Louis, 25 Dec. & ∑ [Link]

7 Flayosc
A good town to stop in, from the
church there is a vista of vineyards.
The formerly Swedish state-run
vineyard Domaine Rabiega is up
a track off the D57 to Les Arcs.
Domaine
Rabiega
Pruning vines after the harvest
Château de Berne
1 Les Arcs
Driving south on the DN7,
you pass the Maison des
Vins. Near Les Arcs itself is
Chapelle Ste-Roseline (see
p111) and a producer of
the same name.

Draguignan
3 Lorgues
Olives and grapeseed are Château
pressed in Lorgues. The Sainte-Roseline
British-run Château de
Berne is nearby. Fréjus

2 Vidauban Taradeau
Château d’Astros Château
vineyard, near Saint-Martin
Vidauban, produces
a range of red, white Maison
des Vins
and rosé wines.
Château d’Astros

0 kilometres 2

0 miles 2 Maison des Vins near Les Arcs

114  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

e St-Maximin-la-Ste-Baume
Surrounded by hills and vineyards, St-Maximin-la- Ste-
Baume is dominated by the basilica Ste-Marie-Madeleine
and its attached monastery. According to Provençal
tradition, the basilica was built on the site of the tombs
of St Mary Magdalene and of St Maximin, legendary first
bishop of Aix (see pp152–3). The saints’ remains, hidden
from the Saracens (see pp46–7), were rediscovered in
1279. The building, started 16 years later by Charles II,
Count of Provence, is the region’s finest example of Sarcophagus of St Cedonius
Gothic architecture. This is one of four 4th-century saints’
sarcophagi in the crypt, which was
once the burial vault of a Roman villa.

. Relics of St Mary Magdalene

This bronze gilt reliquary (1860) holds
the skull of St Mary Magdalene.
Although pilgrim popes and
princes took away other parts
of her body, the majority
of her relics can still be
found here.

. Ronzen’s Retable (1517–1520)

Antoine Ronzen’s wood retable
and surrounding panels include
the first picture of the Papal Palace
in Avignon (see pp48–9).

KEY . Organ
One of the finest in France, with
1 The apse was completed in
the early 14th century. The present
2,962 pipes, the organ was built
Baroque-style arrangement was
between 1772 and 1774 by Jean-
finished in 1697.
Esprit Isnard. Napoleon’s brother
Lucien saved it in the Revolution by
2 Stairs to crypt having the Marseillaise played on it
3 Former refectory whenever a visiting official arrived
to dismantle the organ for its metal.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp199–200 and pp211–12
 THE VAR AND THE ILES D’HYERES  115

Basilica Entrance
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The western side of the basilica
has three matching wooden
Practical Information
doors. They feature studied
Road map D4. n Place de
carving that contrasts sharply
l’Hôtel de Ville. Tel 04 94 59
with the surrounding façade,
84 59. Basilica and Monastery:
which appears to have been
Open 9am–7:30pm daily (except
crudely chopped off. When work
during services). 5 6:30pm
stopped on the building in 1532,
Sat, 10:30am Sun; call 04 94
this part was left unfinished.
78 00 19 for details of weekday
services. 8 summer only.
= summer only. 7 basilica only.
∑ [Link]

Hôtel de Ville
The town hall, planned and constructed between
1750 and 1779, was formerly the pilgrims’ hostelry.

Milestone
Discovered along the Roman
Aurelian Way (see p129), this
1st-century milestone is now
on display at the entrance
to the cloisters.

Cloisters
The cloisters are at the
centre of the Royal
Monastery, so called
because the French
kings were its priors.
The Domincan friars
left in 1957 and it is
now a hotel-restaurant.
116  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

Boats in the colourful, palm-fringed harbour at Sanary-sur-Mer

r Bandol its entirety. Dating from about y Toulon

Road map C4. * 7,745. £
1300, the landmark medieval
@ n Allée Alfred Vivien tower in the town still contains Road map D4. * 167,168. k £
(04 94 29 41 35). ( daily. the cannon that saw off @ g n 12 place Louis Blanc
∑ [Link] an Anglo-Sardinian fleet (04 94 18 53 00). ( Tue–Sun.
in 1707. It is now part of ∑ [Link]
Tucked away in a bay, this a hotel. Sanary-sur-Mer has
cheerful resort has a tree- enticed visitors for many Tucked into a fine natural
lined promenade, casino years. Once the home of harbour, Toulon is home to
and yachting harbour. the British writer Aldous France’s Mediterranean fleet.
The shelter of encircling Huxley (1894–1963), it was In the old town, or along the
hills makes for excellent a haven between the wars quays of the Darse Vieille, the
grape-growing condi- for innumerable other matelots and the bars reinforce
tions. Indeed, Bandol has authors. Bertolt Brecht the maritime connection.
produced superb wines (1898–1956) and Thomas In Roman times, Toulon was
since 600 BC. There are Mann (1875–1955) fled renowned for its sea snails
also plenty of shops Rosé wine here from Nazi Germany. (murex) which, when boiled,
and restaurants to from Bandol To the east of Sanary, the produced an imperial-quality
interest visitors. coast becomes dramatic purple dye. During the reign of
and rocky. By the peninsula’s Louis XIV, Pierre Puget (1620–94)
extremity at the Cap Sicié is the was in charge of the port’s
t Sanary-sur-Mer Notre-Dame-du-Mai chapel, decoration. Two of his best-
Road map C4. * 16,200. which was built in the 17th known works now support the
£ Ollioules-Sanary. @ n Maison century A pilgrimage destina- town-hall balcony. These are
du Tourisme, 1 quai du Levant (04 94 tion full of votive offerings,
74 01 04). ( Wed. ∑ sanary- its stepped approach offers
[Link] a wonderful panorama over
the coast and surrounding hills.
In the agreeable, clear blue Outside town, the Parc
waters of Sanary-sur-Mer, the Animalier & Exotique Sanary-
diver Jacques Cousteau’s experi- Bandol has wildlife and
ments to develop the modern tropical plants.
aqualung took place. Diving
and fishing (mainly for tuna O Parc Animalier & Exotique
and swordfish) are still popular Sanary-Bandol
pursuits in this delightful resort, 131 ave Pont d’Aran, Sanary-sur-Mer.
where rows of pink and white Tel 04 94 29 40 38. Open Apr–Sep:
houses line the bay. Its name 9:30am–7pm daily; Oct & Mar: 9:30am–
derives loosely from St-Nazaire; 6pm daily; Nov–Feb: 9:30am–5:30pm
the lovely local 19th-century Wed, Sat & Sun. Closed public hols Ornate Baroque entrance to the Musée
church took the saint’s name in am. & 7 = ∑ [Link] de la Marine
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp199–200 and pp211–12
 THE VAR AND THE ILES D’HYERES  117

Strength and Tiredness, his 1657 E Musée d’Art de Toulon endeavours in the defence of
carved marble figures of Atlantes. 113 blvd du Maréchal Leclerc. Tel 04 Toulon, as well as old weapons
The port was extensively 94 36 81 01. Open Tue–Sun pm only. and a number of historical
damaged in World War II by Closed public hols. 7 limited. sketches by Puget.
the Allies and Nazis. Today, A permanent collection of
much of the town is under traditional and contemporary R Cathédrale Ste-Marie-
restoration. Toulon has a large Provençal paintings forms the de-la-Seds
opera house and several inter­ core of this small but illuminating Place de la Cathédrale. Tel 04 94 92
esting museums, including the museum. Works by international 28 91. Open daily.
Musée des Arts Asiatiques artists are often included in the Directly inland from the town
located in the Villa Jules Verne, first­floor temporary exhibitions. hall, in the Darse Vieille, is the
which has been entirely city’s 11th­century cathedral.
re­designed to house it. E Musée d’Histoire de Toulon It was treated to a Classical face­
10 rue Saint Andrieu. Tel 04 94 62 lift and extended in the 1600s.
E Musée National de la 11 07. Open Mon–Sat pms. Inside, there are works by
Marine Closed public hols. Puget and Jean Baptiste Van
Place Monsenergue. Tel 04 22 42 02 This quaint museum features Loo (1684–1745), as well as
01. Open Wed–Mon (Jul­Aug: daily). the young Napoleon and his a spectacular Baroque altar.
Closed Jan. & 7 = ∑ musee-
[Link]
Imposing statues of Mars and
Bellona decorate the grand
entrance, once the gateway to
the 17th­century city arsenal
that stretched for more than
240 ha (595 acres) behind it.
Inside, the museum boasts
two vast model galleons,
La Sultane (1765) and Duquesne
(1790), used for training. Some
figureheads and ships’ prows
are on show, as are two wooden
figures that were carved by
Pierre Puget, and various
18th­century naval instruments. Place Victor Hugo and the opera house in Toulon

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Key to Symbols see back flap Asiatiques
118  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

u Iles d’Hyères
The Iles d’Hyères, also known as the Golden Isles, are three
unspoilt islands, found 10 km (6 miles) off the Var coast – Hyères
Le Lavandou

Porquerolles, Le Levant and Port-Cros. Their history has been

Hyères-Plage
chequered due to their important strategic position: occu-
La Tour-
piers have included Greeks, Romans and Saracens, as well Fondue
Le Levant

as ruthless pirates. Today the French Navy uses much of Le

Port-Cros
Levant. Porquerolles, the largest island, is partly cultivated Porquerolles

with vineyards, but also has expanses of pine forest and

maquis. Both Porquerolles and Port-Cros are national parks, Locator Map
protected for their woodlands (including holm oak, strawberry
tree and myrtle), rare birds and rich underwater habitats.
Fort du Moulin, over-looking
Port-Cros Marine Life Port-Cros harbour
The wooded slopes of the island shelve down
into unpolluted sea, where colourful fish
swim among beds of Neptune grass.
A ready-planned swimming route
makes exploration easy.

Sponge alga
Codium bursa

Mermaid’s cup
Acetabularia
mediterranea

Bath sponge
Spongia officinalis

Neptune grass
Posidonia oceanica

Peacock’s tail
Padina pavonia

Sea peacock
Thalassoma pavo
Saupe Sarpa salpa

Moray eel
Sea urchins, Paracentrotous lividus Black goby Gobius niger Muraena helena

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp199–200 and pp211–12
 THE VAR AND THE ILES D’HYERES  119

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST i Hyères

Road map D4. * 57,000. k Toulon-
Practical Information Hyères. £ @ g n Rotunde du
Road map D5. n Porquerolles Park Hotel, Ave de Belgique (04 94 01
(04 94 58 33 76). 84 50). ( Tue, Thu & Sat in city centre;
Transport Mon, Wed, Fri & Sun in neighbourhoods.
k Toulon-Hyères. £ Hyères. ∑ [Link]
@ Hyères. g from Hyères
(La Tour-Fondue) to Porquerolles Hyères is one of the most
Port-Cros Harbour daily (every 30 mins in summer); agreeable towns on the Côte
The tiny, palm-fringed harbour from Hyères and Le Lavandou d’Azur, and the oldest of the
and village of Port-Cros nestle in to Port-Cros and Le Levant daily south of France winter resorts.
a sheltered bay to the northwest (Jan–Feb: 3–4 times a week). The town lies at the centre
of the island. of well-cultivated land that
provides fresh fruit and
vegetables all year. It has three
leisure ports, 25-km (16-miles)
of sandy beach and a peninsula
facing the Iles d’Hyères.
The new town was called
Hyères-les-Palmiers. A palm-
growing industry was established
Scuba diving off the coast of Port-Cros here in 1867, soon becoming
the largest in Europe. The
Black-faced blenny industry is still important and
Trypterygion tripteronotus thousands of palms line the
new town boulevards.
Hyères’ main church
is St-Louis in Place de la
République. Romanesque
and Provençal Gothic, it was
Cardinal fish completed in 1248. From place
Apogon imberbis Massillon, rue St-Paul leads past
the 11th-century Eglise St-Paul,
full of 17th-century ex-votos.
The road continues to the
Diplodus ruined 12th-century Château
Diplodus sargus St-Bernard, which has good
views. In the gardens is the
Cubist-inspired Villa de
Noailles (1924), built by Robert
Mallet-Stevens for the Vicomte
Grey mullet de Noailles. Jardin Olbius
Chelon labrosus Riquier has a petting zoo
and exotic plants.

O Jardin Olbius Riquier

Ave Ambroise Thomas. Tel 04 94 00
78 65. Open daily. 7
Octopus Octopus vulgaris

Façade of a house in Hyères built in Moorish

Damsel fish, Chromis chromis architectural style
120  PROVENCE AREA BY AREA

It is a centre for water sports pBormes-les-

and offers moorings for luxury Mimosas
yachts. Full of bars, nightclubs
and restaurants, Le Lavandou Road map D4. * 7,845. @ Hyères.
n 1 place Gambetta (04 94 01 38 38).
is a favourite of younger, less
( Wed. ∑ [Link]
well-heeled visitors.
It takes its name not from Bormes is a medieval hill
the lavender fields in the village on the edge of the Dom
surrounding hills, but from a Forest, bathed in the scent of
lavoir (wash-house) depicted oleander and eucalyptus and
in a painting of the town by topped with a flower-lined
Charles Ginoux dating from walk around its castle. “Les
1736. During the last century,
Beach at Le Lavandou overlooked by hotels when it was no more than a
and exclusive villas fishing village, Le Lavandou was
popular with artists. The most
o Le Lavandou famous, though not so well
Road map D4. * 5,236. @ g
known outside France, was
n Quai Gabriel Péri (04 94 00 40 50). Ernest Reyer (