109

NOV/DEC 2019 • £6.95 UK $15.99

www.mengafvmodeller.com

CORN LESTER
CRUSHERPLASKITT’S KING TIGER
 CONTENTS
2 Pantsir Power
Jari Hemila builds the new Meng 96K6 Pantsir-S1

12 The Panzers Last Strike

Lester Plaskitt’s beautiful corn-crushing Kingtiger

20 Panzer pounder
Fabio Sacchi works his magic on an Achillies in 1:35

30 Requiem for a Dream

Graeme Newman’s late war Hetzer diorama

38 Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 27
The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.

48 Keeping Track
New releases.

56 Puma 6X6
Chris Meddings does an inside job on Trumeter’s Italian Puma

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Editor and Designer: David Parker

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1
ISSN 2059-4305
 PANTSIR-S1
Jari Hemila builds Meng Model’s new 96K6 Pantsir - S1 in Iraqi Service

2
The Meng Model factory has surprised us again, some areas, like building the upper structures.
this time by releasing a Russian Air Defence With some extra care, there is no need for putty at
Weapon System 96K6 Pantsir-S1. This vehicle is all! The overall fitting is excellent, despite the
one of those modern weapon systems made for complex structure of the kit. Straying from the
modern warfare. You can build an extremely well recommended sequence of the instructions could
detailed model out of the box, it requires some cause you problems so please follow the
patience and care, but the results are amazing! instructions! I put the windows in after paintwork,
but it is better glue them properly when called out
Meng did great job with their Pantsir kit. Kit offers in the assembly sequence and then mask before
parts for a total of six different versions and painting. The fit of parts in modern kits doesn't
camouflages as well. All options differ slightly, so allow even thin layer of paint, so follow instructions,
before you begin you need to choose your camo and your life is easier.
preference. There are two options for main radar,
turret roof and loading ramps, three different power Meng has nicely used Photoetched parts where
units etc. The painting instructions consist of two they really have to be used, like roof grids and
green, one 3-tone camo and two different desert loading ramps. If you want, you can add some
camos and finally an interesting, white Arctic camo detailing, like different water and oil pipes, on your
version. Pantsir model. Meng gives us a lot of valves and
places for extra details. Many of these details are
I decided to build the Iraqi version in Sand yellow hidden by different structures, so it is up to you if
with Dark green stripes. Based on kit painting you want make some extra detailing or not. I used
instructions, all multicolor camos seems similar to Meng’s own resin wheel set, the wheels are one
me, so maybe vehicles were painted already at the piece, bulged-type and there are four different
factory? Consequently, I painted a Russian green positions per side and separate spare wheel with a
base colour with light sand camo. Iraq has used rim. The resin is excellently cast, details are crisp,
this weapon systems since autumn 2014, so I and there are no air-bubbles at all. Kit wheels are
wanted to model a subject that has had some real black vinyl rubber, and they fit on rim very well, so
action and result of that, some wear and tear too. they can be used of course, too. If the stabilizers
are lowered, the bulge is not even needed on the
The building was easy to do following kit tires. To ease painting and weathering, I find those
instructions, but some extra care was needed in solid resin wheels much more easier to handle.
3
 After the unpainted vehicle pictures were taken, the kit was dismantled for
painting. This helps to paint and weather everything properly, but also helps
to handle model. After attaching the upper structures, it is a demanding
model to handle because of its size.

The model is first primed with black Ammo

One shot primer. This primer works nicely, all
you need to do, is shake it well and then
airbrush directly from a jar, there is even no
need for thinning. I recommend you let primer
dry overnight. These One shot primers work
both on plastic, resin and metal surfaces. It's
recommended to paint thin layer first on bare
plastic surface, let dry for 5 minutes and then
continue with thin layers until surface is totally
covered.

The wheels were painted with the tires finished in a dark rubber The model was first painted in sub-assemblies with a Ammo Dark Green 915
colour, this time with mixture of Satin black and Rubber. The acrylic paint. It is very easy to airbrush, only some their own thinner is needed, if
4
rims were painted in flat black. any, but the main advantage is their suitability with hairspray technique. This
advantage will be used soon.
The camouflage was masked with masking putty. The basic contours were covered with small rolls of putty and attached over green areas and then smaller
pieces were used to complete masked areas. The Camouflage masking putty is self-levelling so it is perfect for hard-edge camouflage.

Unmasked areas were airbrushed with two thin layers of Scratches Effects and I also used chipping fluid before masking but for some reason, the putty took
some fluid away leaving some unwanted marks. Those marks were easily removed with water but still caused some harm and extra work. The camo colour
was chipped next. I wanted to show some wear and tear, exposing the original green colour under sand camo. The surface is moistened with hand warm tap
water and with a soft paintbrush. Working slowly, the sand paint will chip away nicely. All the sub-assemblies, cab, control unit, turret, turret lower hull and
power unit, were painted and chipped this way.
Now it is time for a
proper wash! My
technique is to add
quite harsh pin
washes to pick up
the details.

5
 After it has dried for approximately 10 minutes, I cleaned away the excess The weathering starts by adding some dusty and dirty enamel washes on
with a make-up sponge moistened with just a drop of enamel thinner, leaving areas were dust and dirt accumulates, like the inner corners and around raised
wash only in recessed areas. You can also use paint brush for this purpose details. Washes were applied with a small paintbrush and then left to dry for a
and in small details. And as always, allow it to dry and repeat process if couple of minutes.
needed.

With a bigger round paintbrush, moistened with fresh enamel thinner, the The hull was painted at first with flat black and then all the details were picked
areas are faded leaving dust and dirt just in the areas wanted. out with detail painting and then with black pin wash.

The dusting was done mainly with oils, Dust and Buff Oilbrushers. Oil paints This was then blended with both dry and enamel moistened paint brush. This
are applied to the surfaces, and left to dry for a while. was an easy task, unfortunately nearly everyhting will be covered with upper
structures and wheels.

I wanted add pigments to some details now before upper structures were
attached. Lighter European Earth was applied as general dust and darker Earth
was applied to areas that will be moistened with fuel spills. Pigments were
fixed and when dry, the excess wiped away. The fuel spills are made with
Ammo Engine oil, diluted with enamel thinner. This step needs to be done with
The completed oil washes on the chassis. several layers to control effect. Too much oil at once will leave unwanted marks
6
and give an unrealistic effect. As a final touch, you can add some Engine oil
directly from a jar.
After washes were dry, the next step was to add some steel colour chipping. The dusting was done this time with chipping fluid and enamel washes. At
Both with piece of sponge and small paintbrush, steel colour chipping was first, the dusted area is airbrushed with couple of thin layers of chipping fluid.
applied on areas were crew walks, like loading ramps, roof panels and steps Once dry I started to apply washes with an airbrush. To get the best results,
around the vehicle. apply darker tones on lighter, sand colour areas and light dust to darker, green
areas. There is no need to cover everything, so random passes are perfect.

After you have properly cleaned your airbrush, the washes are dry enough to strokes. Water softens chipping fluid and so dried enamel washes can be
be chipped. With hand warm tap water, NOT enamel thinner, I started to chip removed like using acrylics. After chipping is complete, I let it dry overnight
dusted areas with soft, big paintbrush. Try to make the chipping random. On and then sealed it with couple of thin layers of airbrushed matt varnish. Now 7
horizontal areas, use a tapping motion and on vertical surfaces, downwards you can repeat process if needed.
 Some dust acrylic dust color was airbrushed around rim edge and tread. The
wheels were now ready for weathering. First I brushed some radial lines from
tread to rim randomly with Buff Oilbrusher and let them set for a few minutes.
With a flat, dry paintbrush I blended the lines, and then moistened it with
some enamel thinner and completed radial lines.

Below Tread was painted with dusty oil color, diluted slightly with enamel
thinner. The Idea is to get the colour to run into every corner. Right after the
oilcolor was applied, some European earth pigment was sprinkeled over the
wet paint and then spread with old paintbrush. When oilcolor was dry, the
excess pigment was brushed away.

The final step for wheels was to expose some black rubber using
drybrush technique. Raised details were picked up with black
oilcolour. Load some oil colour on wide, flat paintbrush, wipe excess off
with paper towel and then start rubbing the colour on. The effect is
excellent but still remember not to overdo this, not with every wheel! Ok, we
have eight wheels, so we can have some variance between them.

All upper structure sub-assemblies were treated same way, only the cab had a different approach. The Windscreen wiper areas were masked with masking
tape and then dust and dirt washes were airbrushed on. If you want leave sharp marks, let the dust dry overnight. I wanted to make some softer effects and
faded the marks with a dry cotton bud.
8
The dusting continues, now with pigments. I used two pigment tones, light The pigments are applied with a small old paintbrush, try to avoid blending
Europe dust for dry, light dust and darker earth tone for more shadowed different tones together. This way you get more interesting results when
areas. dusting is not solid colour.

The pigments were now fixed with a few drops of enamel thinner. Try to avoid After the thinner is evaporated and so dry, the excess is removed by
touching pigmented areas much with a paintbrush, it easily leaves unwanted sweeping surfaces with dry make-up pad leaving pigments only on areas
marks on pigmented areas. were dust is realistically accumulated.

The excess is now removed and the pigments are accumulated

around details and recessed areas.

9
 The weathering was completed with real sand and earth. Sand and earth were applied with paint stirrer in places where earth accumulates, like stabilizers.
Sand can be adjusted with a paintbrush and then fixed with a few drops of Ammo Sand and Gravel glue. Let this dry overnight. Glue can be satin if used too
much, but with small amount of pigments, you can fix the problem.

One of final steps was to add some metallic sheen on the model. Previously chipped edges got some metal pigment
and work continued with a grafite pen. Grafite was applied to outer corners, panel ends and some handles.

10
The final step was to apply some oily marks
around AA guns by flicking thinned Engine oil
effect around gun bays and spend shell outlet
area.

11
12
13
 From my earliest interest in modelling World War 2 German This I thought would be a great weathering opportunity to have the
armour the one camouflage pattern that has stood out for me is bold camouflage pattern of the vehicle contrasting against the
the hard edge “Ambush” scheme applied to late war King Tigers, muddy groundwork and running gear and with the arrival of the
probably due to this patterns bold hard edge shapes and colours. Meng King Tiger kit from the guys at AFV modeller the time had
Considering my admiration for this pattern its seems strange that I come to put the idea into practice.
have not attempted a King Tiger in the Ambush pattern before, I
have had plans for quite a few years for such a model placed in a As the construction of the Meng kit has been covered previously I
scenario during the failed German Spring Awakening won’t repeat describing this process. As can been seen the
(Fruhlingserwachen )offensive in Hungary during March 1945. My additions I made were to add an aftermarket metal barrel, some
idea was to try and recreate a veteran King Tiger from Panzer Abt etch brass tow cable clamps, replacing the gun cleaning rods with
501 during the opening phases of the offensive advancing over the new ones made from plastic rod and adjusting the sit of the kits
muddy Hungarian terrain with the overexposed commander suspension to give the impression of a vehicle climbing a slope.
scanning for targets as the tank comes over the crest of the hill The kits link and length tracks were then adjusted to match the
and the more experienced loader shouting for him to take cover. suspension and glued in place.

Before painting commenced I added some areas of mud build up on the

road wheels and lower hull using squadron white putty. I find this process
is more controllable than adding large amounts of mud latter in the The basic shape of the base is now roughed
weathering stages and will help define and bulk out the areas of mud out using foam blocks used for home insulation.
build up for further weathering steps.

The painting of the base colours

was carried out using the AK
Interactive German late war colours
set. As is my practice the tones of
the three camouflage colours were
lightened by approximately 20% to
compensate for the coming
weathering effects which will serve
to progressively tone down the
colours. The camouflage pattern
was reproduced using a
combination of masking tape and
masking putty applied following the
set pattern for this scheme with
each colour being masked and
painted individually over the yellow
base colour.

The decals came from the Archer rub down After some small touch ups on the camouflage base colour too much. The start of this process
range, with the model being marked up as a pattern the base colours and markings were was an enamel dark brown filter. Here I have
vehicle from the 3rd company of Abt 501. A sealed with a coat of satin varnish as protection used Humbrol enamels though any of the AK
scalpel was used to add some damage and against the coming weathering process. dark brown premixed filters would suffice.
wear to the markings more in line with a veteran
vehicle. Although I was happy with the results so far the
model looked a little too bright and needed to
The distinctive spots of the Ambush scheme are be toned down to help the base colours
now added being careful not to add to many or become more harmonious with each other but
not enough but to find a balance. not to the point of losing the rich tones of the

14
 With the oils fully dry the next stage is a pin wash
To further tone down and fade the base colours using a brush moistened with enamel thinner. made up from Abt 502 Sepia and Bitume oil paints
the “oil dot technique “was employed. This is a Care must be taken to not have the blending heavily diluted with thinner. This stage in the
great technique for adding more localised fading brush too damp as this will only result in the oils weathering process is one of my favourites as it
effects, with dots of unthinned oil paints being being washed off the model surface. emphasizes any surface detail and starts to bring the
spotted onto the model then carefully blended in model to life.

Restrained paint chipping followed next using a pattern and a dark brown/grey mix for areas of
slightly lightened base yellow tone for the lighter chips heavier chips and scratches all applied using a piece
and scratches especially on areas of the camouflage of fine sponge and then enhanced with a fine pointed
To add further interest to the paintwork
heavily thinned sepia oil paint was applied With the basic filters, washes and chipping
to the turret and hull using the speckling complete the detail painting and
technique. The tiny spots of paint subtlety weathering of the tools, tow cables,
beak up the large flat areas on the model, exhausts and any other items was
and as the effect is produced concluded paying attention keep these
using oil paint any overly heavy items in harmony with the rest of the
concentrations of paint can be paintwork. The tracks including the spare
easily blended away using a track links were painted using a dark grey
clean brush moistened with base colour with various rust tones from
thinner. the AK rust set being sponged over the
links to give a representation of light
surface corrosion on the links.

15
 With all the base painting and weathering mix of Tamiya Buff with a small amount of
completed on the vehicle I was able to start Sky Grey acrylic paints are mixed together
the next process in the weathering stages and heavily thinned with water, the Sky Grey
and probably the one I had looked forward to is added to the Buff as this will give the dried
the most, the recreation of the mud and mud/ dust more of a winter grime effect and
After leaving the dust mix to dry for 15-20 minutes
dust effects. The first step in this was to add also help the mud stand out against the dark
using a stiff brush moistened with warm water the dust
a base layer of a dried mud effect on the yellow base colour. Too light coats of this mix
mix is gently removed keeping the brush in a
lower hull area. This was obtained using the is then airbrushed onto the areas where the
downward scrubbing motion. Notice how larger
hairspray/chipping fluid effect. Firstly 2 light chipping fluid has been applied previously ,
patches of the dust mix are left in place in the areas
coats of AK heavy chipping fluid were taking care not to build up too heavy layers
where the dust /dried mud would naturally have a
airbrushed on to the lower hull and along the as this will make the mix harder to remove.
heavier build up.
upper hull side panels, once this had dried a

Happy with this effect so far I still felt it needed the model where this kind of mud splatter would
some more enhancement and texture, this would occur in real life. Giving this mix 10-15 minutes to
be added using a mix of Abt 502 Light mud oil settle a flat brush again slightly moistened with
paint and Wilder brown mud splatter with a small thinners was used to gently drag areas of the mix
amount of Wilder dry Russian earth pigment to down the hull sides to give the impression of
add some texture. Again this mix was heavily tracks of mud that had run down the hull sides
thinned with white spirit and using an old before drying out.
paintbrush flicked off a cocktail stick onto areas of

Now work can start on the heavier mud tones and built up mud
areas, first the mud deposits previously added before painting
from modelling putty are painted in using various dark mud tone
colours.
The blocked in mud deposits can look very stark with high
contrasts. To tone down these contrasts a filter made up from AK
Kusrk earth and Earth effects enamels is mixed up and applied to
the lower hull and wheels.
Adding further interest to the wheels and lower hull areas AK Dark
brown enamel wash was used to add more mud splashes, again
this effect is added using the speckling technique. Where this
effect has been used on the hull sides and lower hull a wide fan
brush was moistened with thinners and used to drag down some
of the wash to give a rain streaked effect.
16
 AK 723 Dust is now used to add a base layer of dried winter dust / mud to the upper surfaces of the
turret and hull, the acrylic paint was thinned with water before application and once mapped onto the
areas where this effect would naturally build up a damp brush was used to blend the edges of the paint.
This effect was also used on the turret sides but not Also some further rain streaks were added to the turret sides, again keeping the effect subtle and in
in the same intensity as the hull sides. harmony with the rest of the weathering effects.

Moving along the next main component in the texture more in keeping with heavy churned up had a more selective placement of the mud mix
weathering process was adding the heavy and soil I mixed in some tea leaves with the AK building up heavier effects towards the lower
wet mud deposits, for this AK diorama products products which resulted in adding a more organic areas of the panels with smaller deposits toward
Muddy ground and Wet mud were mixed together texture to the mix. This mix was then applied to the upper areas of the panels with a more
until a dark heavy mud colour was obtained. the lower hull, tracks and wheels; care was taken concentrated application towards the rear of the
These products are premixed with a certain to add this mix in logical areas where this type of hull where the tracks would have thrown up more
degree of texture but as I required a heavier mud would collect. The hull sides and rear plate mud.

To further blend in the mud, a splatter effect was Attention now returns to the turret roof and upper
added by flicking the AK wet mud from an old hull panels, AK Sepia and Burnt umber oil paints
brush against a cocktail stick to create the mud are now added over the dried mud and dust
splatter up the hull sides and rear panel. Any effects to represent areas of damp wet deposits.
unnatural looking splatter was either removed or The oils were applied neat then blended using a Final wet and split fuel effects were added in
blended in using a brush dampened with water. brush moistened with thinner. selected areas using AK track wash and fuel stains.

With the weathering effects on the vehicle nearly

completed my attention turned to the crew, to keep with
my original idea of the interaction between the
commander and loader figure would require an amount of
conversion and scratch building. The commander figure is
an Alpine miniatures figure with replacement arms from
an evolution stug commander figure. His pose and neck
angle were adjusted to enable him to have a leaning back
pose bracing himself as the tank climbs the slope.
The loader is made from a spare Dragon
models German tank crew torso and a
Hornet shouting head, as he is in the
process of pulling closed the hatch
his left arm had to be scratch
built from Magic Sculpt putty.
Following more than a few test
fits and adjustments the
figures were primed with
Tamiya grey primer then
painted exclusively in
acrylics.
17
 Alongside working on the King Tiger work was before the application of a final satin black base the premixed AK products along with some sea
progressing on the base. After a test fit of the coat. grass trimmings and small dried plant roots to
Tiger I thought the base a little bland so the give more of an organic texture and match the
decision was made to add a slit trench to the With the satin black coat on the base fully dry the mud applied to the vehicle. The areas of the
base, this would also tie in nicely with my original sides were masked off and work commenced on trench and where the tank would sit were tackled
idea of the Tiger advancing into the Russian lines the groundwork, again the AK diorama products first building up the mud in layers being careful to
passing though the outlying trenches. The trench used for the heavy mud deposits on the vehicle make sure the Tiger sat down in the mud to give
was cut into the foam using a razor saw. Once were employed for this purpose. I wanted to the impression of the weight of the tank. Some
happy with the shape of the trench the edges of depict a Spring heavy wet soil and mud effect but dried roots were added around the edge of the
the foam were faced off using plastic card which not to the point where the ground is completely trench to represent roots that would have been
was primed and any gaps filled and sanded water logged, so tea leaves were again added to exposed when the trench was dug.

A prominent feature of the Hungarian landscape provided me with a description of how he Once dry leaf shapes were cut from the paper
seen in many period photographs was the produced his corn stalks, with this in mind I set trying not to make the leaves too uniform in
extensive corn fields, having seen this added to a about reproducing the corn stalks from scratch. appearance.
number of Hungarian themed dioramas notably by White copy paper would be used to produce the The stalks of the corn would be made from
Swedish Modeller Mirko Bayerl, I decided adding leaves. First the paper was painted using acrylic bristles taken from a household hand brush which
the feature of a corn field would not only give the colours in buff and pale yellow tones as this would had bristles made from natural twigs, a number of
base more visual interest It would also provide act as base coat for further effects and add some these were cut from the brush and cut down into
historical context. Contacting Mirko he generously stiffness to the paper. smaller sections.

To add some 3D effects to the leaves they effects were added to the leaves by adding
were rolled between my fingers, this gave more pale sand tones to represent dried out
them a more natural organic and weather dying leaves, followed by a light wash of Abt
beaten texture. My aim was to recreate corn 502 Burnt umber oil paint to further enhance
stalks that been harvested and their husks the decaying look. Also to keep the vehicle
removed so there was no need to recreate this and base in harmony and show the corn that
part of the plant. Next selecting a suitable would have been churned up and caught in the
bristle the leaves were glued on individually tracks of the vehicle as it moved through the
using PVA glue. field extra corn leaves and stalks were added
With the glue fully dried the leaves were into the tracks of the Tiger and blended in
flattened down to recreate the look of dying using a second mix of the AK diorama mud
and wilting leaves. mix.
Using a pin held in a pin vice holes were
pushed into the groundwork and the individual With the Tiger now fixed to the base the
stalk glued into position again using PVA glue. second mix of the groundwork was used to
In addition to the stalks a number of extra build up fresh mud deposits around the tracks
leaves and bristles were also added to the of the vehicle to depict the mud and soil that
groundwork to enhance the impression of would have been displaced by the weight of
harvested corn being fixed in place with AK the Tiger.
18 sand and gravel fixer. Once dry further paint
To add a back story to the trench some abandoned
Russian equipment was added to give the impression of
the trench having been quickly evacuated in the face of
the advancing German forces and following the addition I would like to thank Mirko Bayerl for his
of wet effects again from AK the base was completed. advice during this project.

19
 Self-propelled Anti-tank Vehicles were a very popular German Armour entered the battle field.
concept with US Army Commanders. These vehicles With this in mind Great Britain chose to change the M7
should have been relatively fast and able to match any gun with the much more powerful 17 pdr. anti-tank gun.
enemy armour. Actually the only real purpose-built AT Modification was relatively simple as 17 pdr. gun sleeve
Vehicle was the M18 Hellcat, while all the previous diameter was identical to M7 one and with few
attempts were just adaptations of an existing chassis modification it could be adapted without changing major
and powertrain. To enhance the speed in most cases turret components. Even the front gun shield was the
armour protection was sacrificed and ultimately the same, however an additional cast collar was welded on
concept proved to be ineffective. to it. It was put in service as M10 Achilles Mk Ic and
The M10 was somehow a middle of the bridging Achilles Mk IIc. Differences between Mk Ic and Mk IIc are
concept: it used the M4A2 (Twin Diesel) chassis with a essentially the type of M10 turret used for modification:
new, thinner and more sloped armour. The selected gun the Mid type with sloped rear walls (Mk Ic) or the late
was a 3 inch M7 (76mm) AA gun which whilst it had type with vertical rear walls and prominent
respectable armour piercing performance when counterweights nicknamed “duckbill” (Mk IIc).
20
selected, it became less and less effective the more new
POUNDER
Packing a 17 pounder punch,
Fabio Sacchi returns with an
accurate build of the British Achilles

21
 THE KIT added a load of additional details (This and bake” construction, detailed but not
I confess that I have a sweet spot for self- model was featured in this magazine some that much. Most importantly, the basic
propelled guns and tank destroyers. If you years ago). While I was scratch building the measurements are very accurate, finally!
combine it with ‘Shermanitis’ then the M10 turret I thought was a good idea to build a Having finished an M10 just recently, I had
family is the natural result. second one, the later model, with no inspiration to start another, however the
Unfortunately Plastic Kits for these tanks, “duckbill” counterweights. It was then put kit was too good to be left on the shelf.
until recently, were poor at best. Both AFV on the shelf to make an Achilles. So my decision was to build it and to
Club and Academy have proposed in past Unfortunately the extensive modifications convert it to an Achilles MkIIc. As usual
10/15 years some M10 models but all were and crosskitting necessary resulted in the project was split in subassemblies and lets
marred with serious dimensional problems project being frozen. start with the turret.
or incorrect details. When Tamiya announced a brand new
I tackled some years ago an M10 for which M10 three years ago I was happy and of
I completely scratchbuilt the turret and course I bought a kit. This kit is very
“Tamiya”: reduced parts counts, “shake

TURRET
The first thing I thought was to update Club is enormous. I went therefore the
Tamiya’s turret to the later “duckbill” style, difficult way, I started from a Bronco 17
but, having a complete scratch built one I pdr. gun breech to which I applied all
decided to return to that. My worries were modifications to take it to same specs as
about the dimensions: it was not of the gun mounted in Achilles. It gave
automatic that Tamiya’s gun trunnion also a nice boost in detail as the Bronco
would fit my turret walls. I was lucky (or part is far more accurate and detailed.
precise) and Tamiya’s gun trunnion was Recoil guards were specific to 17 pdr. and
just fitting snugly. I therefore undertook were foldable. AFV Club parts, due to the
very same process that British engineers radical changes in dimensions could not
did more than 70 years ago: modified 17 be used Academy ones were just
Pdr to fit 3inch cradle and applied a heavy inaccurate.… They were therefore
cast collar to gun mantlet. scratchbuilt with 0.88mm styrene rod bent
Initially I thought to use either Academy or into shape with hot water. Side recall
AFV Club 17 pdr. Gun breech. guards frames were saved from AFV club
Well..Academy is undersized and AFV and modified with styrene sheet.

22
With complete gun ready I then tackled the interior details.
Most of details came from the AFV Club Kit while ready round
racks which were however thinned and rounds substituted
with Bronco offerings. Also with the gun shield I used same
process. I wanted to use the Armorscale gun but its included
gunshield was for the Academy kit therefore 2.7mm too
narrow. I therefore cut away the Armorscale resin collar and
applied it to the original Tamiya plastic piece. The heavy
welding around it was then replicated with Tamiya epoxy
putty.
The last parts to be tackled were rear counterweights, the
duckbills. The Academy versions were too narrow and a weird
shape too. AFV Club ones were in the ballpark but the shape
needed to be adjusted due to the different corrected turret
angles. In addition they needed to be thickened by applying
1mm plasticard to the undersides. I then reshaped the form
and applied welded/bolted holders. Some cast numbers were
added by means of Archer transfers surface details, following
photo references. Once the turret was completed I painted
the interior details. The base was Lifecolor SCC15 Olive Drab
while the shells were painted with Vallejo Metallics mixed to
obtain some different and subtle tones of brass. 23
 HULL It was then time to modify ammo storage All tool straps are from ABER photoetched
The new Tamiya M10 Hull is quite accurate as 17 pdr. layout differs a lot form original set. On front hull, six spare tracks pads
dimensionally and details are mostly OK. US equipped gun versions. To create new were added whilst assembling Model
The first thing was to cut away additional frames I used punch and die set to punch Kasten T51 tracks.
armour bolt attachments on hull sides as out consistent shaped holes in the plastic. Running gear for Tamiya’s kit is brand new.
they were not present on later hulls. After To make it I created a template and then I It is good but not excellent. First of all the
that I also changed transmission cover as punched holes using the template for way it is broken up is rather weird and in
Achilles MkIIc mostly sported the later positioning. It sounds difficult, it turned out spite of it not much detail was added. In
“peek” armour. In the kit, transmission to be merely boring. Once the hole addition bogies braces are fixed so
sides are attached to hulls sides. I had patterns were reproduced each frame was remember this if you are planning to use
therefore to cut them and adapt a trimmed to its final shape. Here again I the kit in a diorama where a little bogie
Tasca/Asuka late transmission. As they are used a Bronco Plastic ammo set and to be swing is required! Some of the missing
dimensionally correct fit was not a problem fair I filled just the front two rows as those bolts were therefore added with the help of
when combining them. behind are impossible to see. a punch & die set. Tracks were the last
Unfortunately Tamiya provides no bow pain. Model Kasten are gorgeous in details
interior, just ammo racks (finally correct for With the Interior completed I painted it all but a slog to build, I recently switched to
a 3 inch gun though), turret floor and with Lifecolor Elefenbein (a good base for a Bronco offering, slightly less detailed but
engine firewall. I therefore added driver dirty white) and Lifecolor Olive Drab for the much more effective in building. However I
and radio operator seats from AFV Club exposed parts. I therefore closed the hull. still have a nice stock of Model Kasten
parts (actually they are the only correct The outer upper hull details had also to be tracks that have to be used, sooner or
ones as on the M10 the seats were readapted for an Achilles. Tools were later. After build was completed it was time
attached to side walls not to the hull floor) repositioned, two fire extinguishers added for painting.
and the Academy gearbox and to rear wall. Grousers frame was
transmission cover, not the best but good substituted with amber parts as Tamiya
enough while peeping inside the front offers them as a one piece and they are a
hatches. Details come from an Aber set little chunky. Grousers were built from
dedicated to the M10, wireless set no19 is original Tamiya parts with Academy sides
a Bronco offering. for better details.

24
25
 Base was done with Lifecolor Olive Drab Easy 3
set starting form darker shade to the lighter.
I then applied decals. I wanted to depict an Achilles of
the 93rd Anti Tank regiment in Italy after passing the Savio
River. In AFV Club and Academy Achilles you get parts of
the required marking but with some inaccuracies. The two
white vertical regiment bars are represented as “11” and
the “viking ship” should be on a black field. In addition some
of the vehicles had blue and red rectangles inverted.

I therefore made a combination of two Once installed I fixed pump water well.
sets, painted a black surface behind the everything with a small dab of Tamiya You can see still
viking ship stencil and corrected by hand green cap cement. Overall tank was then nowadays some of
both “1” makings into vertical white bars. dusted with AK dust effects and some of the very typical barns
Side walls stars are from Archer transfers. the parts more prone to scuffing were dry layout : two floors: lower
Everything was then sealed with Vallejo brushed with Kassel Hearth Oil. Some for the cows, upper, fully
satin varnish and the weathering process subtle pin washes with thinned Paynes opened, for hay storage.and last the tiled
started. Grey were then applied. Rear exhaust roof. Hay would also act as a great heat
The first focus was the vertical walls behind deflector was then heavily weathered with insulating material.
the running gear in the muddy Italian some dark oils as two six cylinders diesel I therefore build the basic shape with
terrain a lot of earth is normally caked on. I engines of the 40’s would have for sure left Balsafoam which I then sculpted with a
used a mix of AMMO ready splash effects a lot of exhaust oily stains. home made rectangular shape. The well
and oils and once satisfied I glued on the basin was carved from a piece of
bogies. Before fitting, the tracks were MODEL BASE Balsafoam leftover. All the parts were then
weathered with Vallejo pigments fixed with Once I was satisfied with outcome of model textured with an old toothbrush and then
airbrush thinner. Styrene Modelkasten track weathering I began considering a base. I sealed with two light coats of a 50/50 mix
parts are somewhat allergic to enamels was looking for something not that generic white glue/water. Last step was a layer of
and you may end in having your 5 hours and therefore I tried to depict a small paint gesso mixed with some Polyfilla filler
work falling apart miserably! corner of a North Italy farm barn with a to render a coarser texture.
26
Colours for the base are two Lifecolor rust
tones applied with a large flat brush. I then
applied some brownish/ochre
tones on some single bricks to
make some variation and as
last step it was weathered
with Lifecolor Liquid
pigments. The stone well
basin was painted with
Lifecolor stone colour sets
and the ground was
made with AK terrain
pastes and some
different bushes were
applied.

As usual the figure

was painted by my
friend Giuseppe
Ortolani and it is an
Hornet figure.
Pretty old but still a
great piece.

27
28
My Final thoughts
All in all it was an amusing project. Today
you do not need to scratch build a duckbill
turret because Tamiya have recently
released the Achilles MK IIc as kit and it is
a nice kit. However it is very “Tamiya” in
terms of details and if you want somehow
extra you may consider some of the
improvements applied to this kit.

29
 Kampfgruppe 1001 Nights

30
Requiem
for a
Dream
By April 1945 the dream of a German
thousand year empire had
degenerated into a catastrophic
nightmare for the whole of Europe,
what remained of Hitler's armies
making a final stand on the Oder
attempting to bleed the Soviet
steamroller heading for Berlin with
several million refugees fleeing the
consequences of the policies carried
out in their name.

m o d e l le d b y
Graeme Newman
31
 The enigmatically named KG 1001 nights am as interested in the historical side as detail that often accompany large sized
first came to my attention some twenty much as modelling in fact the history came projects. At the core of the scene was to
eight years ago when reading Munoz’s first as a boy which naturally led to be a late Jagdpanzer 38t, the model
“Forgotten Legions” and Le Tissier’s modelling. A more recent publication chosen was Academy’s late version the
“Zhukov on the Oder”. In fact it was a “Endkampf” from Start Verlag publications reason being it was dimensionally fine had
typical late war unit formed around a cadre in Germany provided some photos of this late road wheels and a selection of late
of experienced troops fleshed out with unit something I never thought would have idlers. Years of hoarding provided the Aber
troops that were from military schools and existed! It shows heavily camouflaged mudguards, side shields and various small
raw recruits. The reason for the name is vehicles with many crew members wearing details, oh and some Friul late Hetzer
somewhat of a mystery, unusual even leather uniforms, Start publish some of the track, I’m not trying to be glib here but I
among the bombastic names given to late highest quality books though not cheap shock myself sometimes at the hoard I’ve
war units. The unit was further divided into they are truly top notch. Extra information accumulated; probably one of modellings
three subunits Sulieka, Harem and Sultan provided showed the unit in defensive many junkies. I quite enjoy tarting up kits a
somebody had been reading the Arabian positions in and around Wriezen on the bit of ‘old skool’, the build was quite
Nights (originally 1001 nights in arabic). Oderbruch in spring1945 in support of Pz straight forward and if I’m honest I’ll try to
Sulieka was composed of three companies Division Muncheberg. recount what I did as this was built in late
of Jagdpanzer 38t from 560th SS The genesis for this project was something 2016 painted and put away in storage as
Jagdpanzer abteilung supplemented by a far grander in my mind but as usual my my larger over ambitious vision of the
company of Stug III from 27th SS ability to execute what I had planned was scene dissipated and I moved onto
Langemarck. As you will have gathered I tempered by time, size and the loss of something new.

As can be seen in the photos the mudguards were

replaced this immediately adds some scale finesse,
general details like the engine louvre and mesh are
beautiful items as are the many small camouflage loops
that were placed in their respective positions. All the tool
clasps were replaced I use 1:48 tool clasps as they are
more accurate scale-wise and further etched detail was
added to the remote machine gun mechanism including
the shield.
One area that I found was lacking was the exhaust shroud,
this was inaccurate, manufactured out of aluminium sheet
this was tricky to get correct but using plans in the MBI
Czech publication on the Hetzer a rendition I was happy
with what came to fruition after several hours.

The tricky thing was to cut the two

dimensional template that would
become two tubes that mated
accurately at the correct angle, once
happy tiny details were fitted like the
vanes that hold the shroud to the
exhaust on the inner surfaces of the
exhaust shroud. Sometimes highly
frustrating, this type of thing although
time-consuming can add immeasurably
to the finesse of a particular model.

The tools were replaced where

necessary with Tamiya items and
corresponding Aber brackets as well as
other key features added like vision
block guards and beautifully rendered in
etched the spare track retaining
32 brackets.
Panzerwrecks published a great book “In whilst using the other colours as is, it was Usually something small reignites interest
Focus”Jagdpanzer 38 which shows great the first time I had sprayed the lifecolor in one’s mind this was the case when a
close up shots of the vehicle in action and paints and because of the acrylic’s quick small hut caught my attention on the
abandoned with super artwork relating to drying I had to carefully keep cleaning the Diodump stand at SMC in Eindhoven last
key images, a ‘must have’ if you like this airbrush nozzle during use. The green went year. I began formulating the scene in my
vehicle it shows main paint schemes and on first then using tamiya masking tape the mind, the Jagdpanzer 38 was to be in a
vehicle features. Having no images at the area’s of red brown and dunkelgelb were defensive position in a semi industrial yard
time of the unit I decided to paint a hard masked off. A feature of the BMM paint at the edge of a small town a drainage
edged BMM factory scheme which was scheme is the false visor pattern running ditch was to run along its rear as well as an
very common towards the end of the war. diagonally to the right when viewed from unpaved track. The yard is supposed to
Both BMM and Skoda produced distinctive the front of the vehicle this was replicated represent a packed gravel and dirt
schemes, Skoda being symmetrical evenly on the model. I sprayed the tracks a dark surface, this was achieved by first
spaced bands of colour while BMM was grey then washes of raw umber to give a sketching out the areas on the base then
more random strands of colour. Using the red brown tint of exposed metal this is forming them with foam board covered in
In Focus book as a guide I decided to use followed by earth tones and pigments are polyfilla, before allowing to dry any
Lifecolor acrylics RAL 6003 Olive green, washed into the track depending on the impression of the vehicles tracks or weight
RAL8012 Red brown and ground work, finally the tread surfaces are have to be considered it is important to
RAL 7028 Dunkelgelb, sometimes the highlighted with graphite and silver pencils. place the vehicle in position at this point
interior ivory colour was used instead of At this stage the model was put in a box depressing it into the plaster so it sits in
Dunkelgelb by the Czech firms but I stuck until I was more comfortable with creating the ground rather than floating
with Dunkelglb. I lightened the Dunkelgelb a scene that was not over ambitious. unrealistically on top.

To facilitate this I sprinkle fine sand where

the tracks make contact waiting until the
plaster is just beginning to dry then placing
it in position and applying light pressure,
once dry the vehicle can be released and
minimal plaster adheres to the tracks,
using a brush any sand can be removed
from both vehicle and base.

33
 The hut was painted pretty much as illustrated on the box with
care to show tonal variations including damp areas with subtle
washes of green. The use of oil washes of varying intensities
provides satisfactory results. As well as the brickwork the old
woodwork was treated in the same way, as was the roof, always
keeping in mind that wood is never brown and exposed metalwork
always has an oxidised hue, no I’m not talking orange, a wash of
raw umber over these areas to create the effect. Hinges and locks
were added to the door before the hut was added to the base as
the Polyfilla was applied. The gravel yard was created by applying
white wood glue over the dried area then sprinkling various
gradations of railroad scatter ending with the finest, allowed to
dry this was painted a neutral grey followed by brown-greys until I
was happy with the tones and variations.

In a similar fashion the trackway was created with fine

scatter powders sieved over the area, the texture is
important here not the colour as I always airbrush these
areas to achieve a realistic colour. I’m always snapping
photos when I’m out for a walk such as dirt tracks, old
buildings and so on, in fact the track and drainage ditch
is loosely based on a place only a few miles from my
home; it’s always useful to have this type of reference in
mind when recreating a realistic setting as reality is a
combination of colours, textures and finishes on
objects.

34
The drainage ditch was filled with AK’s Still a straw colour interspersing them with the surprised one of whom is taken as a
Water, this is fine for small areas and was fresh green shoots as per my observations. “tongue”. Added points of interest are the
built up by applying thin layers via a syringe It’s important not to get carried away and telegraph pole, the cable reels and the
and needle over several days allowing it to have fauna that is not native to the area panzerfausts with containers these are all
set between applications. Since I had used that your modelling! from Miniart who have some really useful
Tamiya acrylics for much of the sets designed for dioramas and are
groundwork there was no issue with the Figures have come on leaps and bounds in producing some very interesting kits.
compatibility between the material and the last fifteen years companies like Alpine
enamels. The fence is simply basswood moving the bar to a new level, Russian The Jagdpanzer 38 was weathered by
cut and glued together then primed and sculptors have always been highly talented building mud up on exposed areas wheels
fitted to the base. The kink was deliberate and I particular like some of the recent and mudguards, I mix white glue, flour
as I wanted to give the impression that the creations such as those from Evolution and pigments these are then allowed to
vehicle had driven into it before reversing which I used, the figure pointing and the dry and airbrushed to match groundwork
slightly. Again taking care to recreate aged one holding the panzerfaust. The figure in colours. Areas of dust are sprayed on the
wood the fence was washed with various U-boat leather jacket is Alpine whilst the vehicle with washes of various tones to
tones of grey- brown culminating with crewman is a modified Cromwell models highlight damp and dry spots. Any chipping
green oil washes that are synonymous figure,the final two figures the wounded and scratches are carried out with a fine
with old wood work. The iron gate was Russian is a heavily modified ICM offering brush and pencils especially the hatches
made from plastic card and etched the dead figure is one of my own creations. and engine bay. The process can be
mesh painted and aged with raw Where necessary I have replaced heads, revisited many times building layers of
umber and a very faint remnant of hands and defined undercuts adding weathering until your happy. Photos show
original paint work. uniform details, once primed they were all many vehicles with a stowage box tied to
One motivation for revisiting this painted in Lifecolor acrylics for the clothing the rear of the vehicle so I added one
project was the appearance of as they dry perfectly flat with the faces along with foliage lines, this is very fine
various fauna items in printed painted in oils, the leather jacket was given lead solder from Aber and hangs naturally.
paper form, these have a black-brown hue to lift it from the flat The foliage is naturally found mosses which
become readily available panzer uniform washed with relevantly resemble fir branches, these are carefully
over the past few years I coloured oils to give the jacket a satin chosen and moulded to fit the vehicle in a
bought some last year finish. The camouflage uniforms take the natural way.
and was impressed by their most time and good reference and In summary Kampfgruppe 1001 Nights like
ease of use and authentic practice is essential, key is the shades most units were brushed aside by the
appearance so decided to try out used, size of pattern and the flat texture. Soviet offensive when it eventually broke
various types. I ordered ivy, bracken, The figures were given a bit of thought as through the Seelow Heights but not before
reeds and weeds from ‘Modelscene’ and regards their interaction and placement exacting a high price, fighting a defensive
applied them to the areas you can see in this can be one of the more demanding withdrawal north then to the west of Berlin
the scene. Ivy was set up the fence and aspects of creating a realistic scene and running out of fuel, ammo as they
building with the bracken on the edge of must be thought about carefully at the retreated, stubbornly clinging onto a long
the track with the reeds filling some of the planning stage. The scene depicts an lost cause.
drainage ditch, I painted some of the reeds ambush position with Soviet scouts

35
For those interested in further reading:-

“Zhukov on the Oder”, Tony Le Tissier. “Endkampf” Start verlag, Axel Urbanke
“Red Storm on the Reich” Christopher Duffy

“The Oder Front 1945” A.Stephan Hamilton

Volume 1 Heeresgruppe Weichsel 20th March- 3rd May
Volume 2 Documents, reports and personal accounts -
these two volumes are highly detailed and a treasure trove of information for
the seriously interested historic modeller!

36
 Panzerkampfwagen
David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit Part Twenty Seven

Although there are some areas in the bow that still need my floor but as the work progressed it was only the basket support
attention like the bow MG mount, I chose to move onto the turret legs that were retained from the kit and even these were modified
basket next. It will come as no surprise to learn that what the kit slightly. Certain details were hard to pin down and I initially
provides has only a loose resemblance to the real thing. I had modelled my Loader’s seat incorrectly on a non-original example
something of a head start with a new photoetched turret basket but I managed to track down an original example and made the

My starting point for the turret basket was this jewel-like photoetched creation There were a few details that I wanted to change but before starting I applied
by Krzysztof Sroka who designed and assembled this impressive replacement a coat of Mr Primer Surfacer to the brass.
floor.

One of the advantages of this new turret floor is the fully detailed underside.
my plans to have a removable turret made this an important area of detail.

I replaced the pair of holders at the front of the basket with my own versions
which were slightly wider to hold a pair of the folding ammunition crates.

The loader’s seat is mounted on one of the turret basket legs. The seat I managed to find pictures of the simple bracket that stops the seat from
bracket was completely replaced with Albion Alloys slide fit brass tube rotating (it could be flipped up to give the Loader more room). This locks over
combined with plastic rod. The seat itself was reshaped with a raised the small peg on the seat support.
38 pommel at the front made with Magic Sculp.
 1

The seat covering is cut out around the bracket so I added a thin layer of Some revision of the seat mount was needed as the centre post I originally
putty over the seat to create the cover. The cover was textured with Mr modelled was not correct. This was removed and two triangular brackets
Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black and the fastener details were added around the were used instead. The hinge detail 1 had also been added to the leg
edge of the seat. bracket.

Also stored on the Loader’s seat support is the MP40 carried by the vehicle. The base of the rack was folded up and soldered.
In order to make the rack I cut a strip of brass sheet and folded it into a U
shaped channel using a folding tool. Notches were cut in the sheet before it
was folded.

I used strips of brass and the handle from an ABER tool clasp to construct the
clasp to hold the spare MG34 barrel case. The sharp eyed will notice that I
have incorrectly assembled the latch, something I later corrected and the
overhanging copper rod was trimmed back.
A pair of mounting brackets were added from more brass sheet and I cut
slots into the basket leg to provide a stronger joint when it is eventually glued
in place.

The clasp (now corrected) is fitted to the top of the barrel case and Right My first attempt and fitting the
the base ‘basket’ was also constructed from brass strip soldered barrel case assumed that it would be
together. The case is a resin accessory from the AFV Modeller range mounted vertically but I only had clear
as the kit does not provide one. information on the location of the top 39
bracket at this point.
 A quick test fitting of the turret basket into the hull showed that the barrel image confirming the position of the lower bracket, mounted on the floor next
case was fouling the floor ammunition bins when the basket rotated. The to the MG ammunition locker. Another test showed that the basket would
barrel case had to be fitted at an angle and I eventually managed to find an now rotate cleanly without hitting the floor bins.

Moving on to the Gunner’s seat and the basic seat shape is fine but the
Time for another test fit of all the parts on the Loader’s side of the basket to mounting support underneath it is removed. The seat is missing a rim around
check that nothing is causing a problem. The gasmask case will need its the base so this was constructed from plastic card and glued into position on
correct mounting brackets on the side of the MG ammunition locker, but it is the seat base. The weld bead was added using fine Slaters plastic rod which
added to check the overall alignments. was melted with liquid glue to give a good weld texture.

40 The Gunner’s bucket seat is missing the seat cushion so I sculpted one using Magic Sculp.
Once the putty had dried it was sanded and primed and then polished to produce this finish. To add the final surface texture I sprayed Mr Finishing Surfacer
1500 Black but holding the spray can further away from the cushion than usual to produce a more spattered finish which gives a great texture if built up over 3
or 4 coats.

Like the Loader’s seat the Gunner has the ability to flip over his seat through and the fixed part of the bracket is added to the back of the seat. The
90º and there is quite a substantial bracket on the back of the seat to lock it bracket is kinked to wrap around the upright of the turret basket support on
in the horizontal position. Here the new mounting shaft is fitted under the seat which it is mounted.

On the other side of the bracket there is a locking handle which forms the The two pieces of the handle were blended with putty and a strip of self-
other half of the bracket. The handle was shaped from a piece of plastic card adhesive aluminium tape was added to make the raised rib down the front of
and a section of plastic rod for the pivot point. the handle.

Beneath the seat is one of the Atemschlauch breather tubes. The Gunner’s backrest is not supplied in the kit so I had not option but to 41
make my own. I used brass sheet to form the base of the padded rest and
the clamp with a layer of pewter foil added to get the scale thickness.
 The angled leg of the turret support makes for some complex geometry for Happily once the backrest was glued in place and the whole bracket was test
the backrest. With no plans I had to judge the shape of the bracket by eye. fitted on the leg of the basket it lined up correctly with the seat base.
The backrest is offset and angled when fitted to the bracket.

The obligatory test fit in the hull to check the alignment which happily was The padded cover for the backrest was made from Magic Sculp applied over
successful first time. the brass backrest and wrapped around the back. The cover was masked
and sprayed with Black Mr Surfacer to texture it like the seat cushion and the
rivets were added to the back.

The seat cushion completes the seat

and back rest.

42
Turning now to the front face of the turret basket the double leg acts as a With the main shape of the box complete it was detailed with the seven cable
support for the electrical fuse boxes. I reworked the weld at the ‘V’ base of sockets and the cover for the cut out switches on the front face with the
the legs and made a new mounting plate from brass sheet. The biggest main hinges made from scrap photoetch and Albion Alloys aluminium tube. ABER
terminal box was replaced as the kit part was wildly undersized. screw heads were added to secure the cover of the box.

The mounting plate was glued into position and the welds were added using The large terminal box was completed by adding the cable socket to the
Green Stuff putty. base. The second small box (completely overlooked by the kit) is a similar
design to the first but slimmer and this too was scratchbuilt.

Above The two boxes are located back to back

on each side of the mounting plate and test fitted
with Blutac used to hold them in position.

Right Another part missing from the kit is the

battery box. This provides a safety back up to the
gun’s electric firing circuit. The box itself is a
simple rectangle but the angled frame it is
mounted on was a bit more demanding. I used a
plastic card former to bend the scrap photoetch
fret strips used to make it. This ensured they were
the same shape. They were then soldered
The project continues in the next Issue 43
together for a strong bond.
 new releases
KEEPING TRACK

Meng 1:35 U.S. Medium tank M4A3(76) W

Meng often surprise us with the subjects they release, usually scale volute springs in steel allowing the suspension to really work
because some are on the radical or obscure side, but what could as per the real vehicle, casting details on the bogies is again
be more mainstream that an M4? Already there’s the usual cries superb (two subtly different options are supplied) with the skids
of “why do we need another Sherman?” That might be so, with very nicely handled with bolt details present. Wheels (again, two
many manufacturers producing many versions (Tasca / Asuka options) and sprockets look nice with a realistic cast texture where
probably presently holding the crown) but we need to remind applicable and subtle manufacturers marks on the tyres. The
ourselves that Meng don’t make a penny from other turret offers more superb detail with nice textures, foundry marks
manufacturer’s Shermans! We can only presume from the design and a lovely .50 Cal. Which can be assembled stored or ready for
of the kit this is the first of many M4 variants Meng will look at and action. All hatches can pose open or closed with all-round detail
the A3 is a good place to start. The ‘W’ denotes the updated and clear moulded optics. The initial release of kits comes with an
ammo storage (wet, surrounded by water jackets) improving crew aluminium gun barrel with choices of muzzle and the kit provides
survival chances in combat. The chunky carton displays some a very comprehensive gun breech to flesh-out the turret interior.
beautiful box art depicting ‘Thunderbolt VI’ famous for it’s actions Now for the tracks. If you’re a regular Sherman builder you’ll know
in Bastogne (another three late-war schemes are included) and there’s no easy way to achieve well detailed T48 track with
the contents aren’t as bulging as usual. In Meng’s standard tan extended ‘Duckbills’ and the number of parts here in the box
plastic the standard of moulding and finesse is as good as it gets could appear daunting to some builders. The pads come as an
with some superb attention to detail. There’s no big surprises in inner / outer face and the connectors and duckbills are also
the design and assembly; the hull is supplied as a ‘tub’ to which separate. Anyone who has assembled the classic Modelkasten
the transmission housing and internal bulkhead are added, the versions of this track will testify as to how fragile they are; Meng
upper hull has a separate engine deck incorporating multipart have addressed this by incorporating metal pins (inserted and
hatches with some stunning weld detail and even the faintest trimmed to length) as you’d expect to see with metal track sets.
impression of ‘gasoline’ text moulded into the fuel cap guards. Assembly is aided by a clear jig to build short runs of links. From
Sand skirt attachment rails are beautifully done with the correct experience (with Meng’s tracks) they always go together quicker
short runs of welds and the armour plate captures a pleasing than you’d initially think, certainly the most involved part of this kit
texture. For the light guards Meng offer plastic parts or photo but if you look online Meng have some great video footage of the
48 etched options with a very welcome moulded jig to form the tracks running at quite some pace with the moving suspension!
shapes, the same applies to the periscope guards. Back to the Meng should have a big hit on their hands with this Sherman, not
running gear, the bogies feature something special with actual only a beautiful kit but it attractively priced too.
Zvezda 1:35 Panzer IV Ausf.G
Zvezda continue to expand their Panzer IV family with their version hull hatches are very poor with an imaginary lip around the edge
of the Ausf G. The kit features link and length track, partial turret of the hatch. At the back of the hull the air intake vents on each
interior. So far so good you would think but unfortunately when we side are poorly replicated with incorrect spacing for the vertical
get into the details and basic dimensions the errors start to add dividers. The side turret hatches are poorly detailed and in fact the
up. The tread pattern on the trackguards is massively underscale whole turret interior is extremely vague with the turret basket
so that is is more than twice as small as it should be. The location featuring a wildly overscale treadplate pattern. And so it goes on,
of the bolts on the rim of the drive sprocket are incorrectly there is much to be corrected and with many far better versions of
positioned on the rim. On the left hull side the Driver’s visor is the Ausf G already on the market it is hard to see much to
missing the pair of lower bolts and the details on the insides of the recommend this one other than its price perhaps.

Tamiya 1:35 ‘Hummel’ Late

A natural progression from Tamiya to base a ‘Hummel’ on their ugly raised areas moulded on the undersides. The all-new 15cm
Nashorn from a few years back. These kits offer a simple howitzer has also been designed with ease of build in mind and
alternative to the Dragon or AFV Club productions of these can be made to elevate with a few clever touches and the use of
vehicles to give a more novice modeller a better shot at building a few screws which hopefully won’t be too visible on the finished
a quite complex Self Propelled Gun or if you simply fancy a model. A turned aluminium barrel is available separately from
quicker build of a great painting and weathering subject. On Tamiya, the kit relies on a regular two-part horizontal split
inspection of the sharply moulded sprues it’s evident this kit arrangement. Tamiya figures have become a great feature of their
shares little with the Nashhorn, we even have new link and length kits in recent years, this crew of three posed replenishing
tracks and being a ‘Late Production’ version we have the full ammunition are another excellent addition, ammo and cases are
width driver’s compartment. Although all of the superstructure is also included. A very build-able looking kit in true Tamiya fashion 49
moulded to Tamiya’s usual high standards the inside surfaces are but falling short on finesse in some areas.
peppered with ejector pin marks and the mudguards have rather
 We’d imagine most of our regular readers
have a good grounding at least in the
hobby but to anyone new or returning to
modelling after a break of anything more
than a few years things can be a little
confusing with the amount of techniques
and products available these days. This
new release from AKI is an excellent guide
for the beginner or someone starting to
progress with modelling covering all
aspects from the correct working
environment, choosing suitable kits,
assembly techniques and painting and
weathering. A lot of effort has gone into this
book to ensure every question a novice
may have is covered in a pictorial manner
Beginners Guide to which is easy to understand (some of the
Modelling Spanish to English translation in our
Eduardo Fernández Rodríguez English sample version isn’t brilliant but it
doesn’t detract from the content). Although
Published by AK Interactive
being a major player in the market this isn’t
Softback format, 136 pages just a marketing tool for AK’s products,
ISBN 9788469790694 many of our favourites feature throughout;
www.ak-interactive.com recommended reading for anyone wanting
to advance their general modelling skills.

Deutsche Panzer
German Tanks in WWI
(1917-1918)
Carlos De Diego Vaquerizo,
Abteilung 502 are part of the AK Interactive family of brands, seen as their premium end of
Ricardo Recio Cardona the market some new book releases are certainly fitting with a hardback presentation and
Published by Abteilung 502 quality paper stock, quite the ‘coffee table’ kind of book. The content is very visual with
hardback format, 108 pages some beautiful period black and white images and top quality colour profiles which detail
many of the known A7Vs and their history. With such a small number of home-grown tanks
ISBN 9788469790694
in the Great War many captured (Beute) panzers also feature with some inspiring schemes.
www.abteilung502.com Detailed 1:35 plan drawings also feature and tables of the A7Vs details and each vehicle’s
fate. Available direct and from your favourite specialist book dealer at a good value price.

Their Last Path- IDF Tank

More premium presentation with a new release to please IDF fans, in particular fans of the
Wrecks Merkava Mk.1 & 2 legendary Merkava in it’s early form. With unique access to a compound of Merkavas at the
Michael Mass, Kristof Pulinckx end of their service we have a unique collection of sharp colour images offering superb
Published by Abteilung 505 reference of these vehicles including engine bay and interior close-ups and many external
Hardback format, 154 pages components in clear detail. Captions are very detailed and informative (as you’d expect
from Mr Michael Mass of Desert Eagle fame) with a bonus feature of 3D rendered technical
50 ISBN 8435568301757
drawings breaking fittings down into component form. A superb visual reference for
www.abteilung502.com modellers of the Merkava and beautifully presented.
Mac One Models
Mac One are expanding their range with some great accessories for the
modern diorama builder in very finely cast resin. Road blocks and barriers are
common place in war-torn cities, these sets are ready to paint after some
minimal clean-up. MAC35176 is 3 stacks of three tyres filled with rubble,
MAC35177 is a set of three battered oil drums filled with rubble and
MAC35175 is a great set of thirteen traffic cones in various states. A bundle of
several of these items and three concrete road barriers are in set MAC35178.
Set MAC35173 is a set of eight waste bins of several styles. A larger centre
piece for a diorama is a watch tower (MAC35174) based on images from Iraq
but applicable to other scenarios. Cast in an acrylic resin it has the look of
concrete straight out of the box. Take a look at Mac One’s excellent website
where there’s some great colour product images and secure shopping should
you be tempted.

Stalingrad
Based around a collection of well known war-time
photographs, Stalingrad have the perfect group of
figures to complement Tamiya’s new Nashorn (or
indeed any Hornise of Nashorn and other vehicles
with a few tweaks). Available as a ‘Big Set’ of six
figures (and horse) or split into three sets of two, our
sample is the mounted dipatch rider and officer
receiving paperwork (or maybe just his copy of AFV
Modeller?). As usual the sculpting and casting is
amongst the best in the business with superb
anatomy and detail.
www.stalingrad.diorama.ru has excellent images of
the painted figures and details of where to purchase
the range in your part of the World.

ARV and Wreckers in IDF More to excite IDF modellers from Desert Eagle with a look at the history of Armoured
Recovery Vehicles with their usual top-quality visual approach to serving-up some superb
Service- Part 1
reference. Many vehicles are featured from the early M32 Sherman, Centurion Mk.2 ARV
Michael Mass, Adam O’Brien and M88A1 through to the modern Rekem and Namer Aqhzaka plus many more
Published by Desert Eagle providing an absolute goldmine of unique large format colour images for the converter
Softback format, 83 pages and detailer alike. Along with overview images of operating vehicles there’s a good
selection of interior and exterior walk-around shots with detailed plan drawings of the
ISBN 9789657700143 Merkava based vehicles giving the scratch-builder plenty of information. Plenty of diorama
www.deserteagle-publishing inspiration is also at hand with unique images by the author of these beasts getting right 51
down and dirty. A really interesting addition to the Desert Eagle range of essential IDF
reference.
 Dragon 1:35 Jagdpanther
Ausf.G1 Late/Ausf.G2
Having produced a new bench-mark in Panther kits in the early this calibre takes time to assemble. Two full upper hulls are
2000s Dragon released their first new-generation Jagdpanther in included incorporating accurate details such as the different angle
2007 and not wanting to miss out on the recent Panther-Party of the rear plate, G1 / G2 exhaust assemblies, engine deck fan
with so many Panther variants released recently from Meng, housings, mantlets…really just about every optional part to create
Takom and Rye Field in 1:35 they’ve created a combined bumper the Jagdpanther of your choice. Perhaps fans of Dragon kits
boxing of both their G1 and G2 versions. As you’d expect there’s would prefer the inclusion of Magic-Tracks with their superb detail
masses of sprues which will result in plenty panther parts for the instead of the single piece DS tracks are offered. Dragon are
spares box- there’s even a couple of Panther turret mantlets announcing a few of these ‘bundle’ kits which exploits any tooling
made their way in there! These kits represent Dragon at their they have readily available, unfortunately the retail prices don’t
peak with beautiful sharp detail throughout producing superb really reflect the fact. A superb Jagdpanther nevertheless.
models straight out of the box, not weekend builds but detail of

AK Interactive
MIG AK are constantly expanding their Diorama Series with some
Productions easy to use products which give maximum effect and detail.
The re-booted MIG Productions brand continues to release Grass tufts come in various sizes and tones and are self
some of their old favourites. In finely detailed and cast resin are adhesive with very realistic results. Bracken Fern is part of a
three sets of drums and containers ideal for populating modern collection of laser-cut coloured paper foliage with superb finesse
vehicles and dioramas. www.migproductions.com and very easy to use.www.ak-interactive.com

The Ultimate Guide to Make Number 9 in the ‘AK learning Series’ of compact little guide books focusses on buildings
Buildings in Dioramas and features work of some of the best modellers around. Featuring kits and
constructions completely from scratch there’s a great variety of materials and
Published by AK Interactive techniques described as well as the use of reference from all around us and the best
Softback format, 87 pages composition of the elements that go into making a successful miniature scene. There’s
www.ak-interactive.com an equal amount of diverse techniques for painting and weathering shown in step-by-
52 step visuals with plenty of superb modelling on show to learn from and all nicely
presented.
Magach Tanks of the
IDF Vol.3
Magach 3 Tanks After
the six-day War

Dr Robert Manasherob
Published by SabIngaMartin
Softback format, 80 pages
ISBN 9781732548923
www.aviationbookcentre.com

The interest in modelling IDF subjects never seems to wain which an accurate Magach with many period images of unique and
is most probably helped by some of the superb reference previously unpublished images including in-action and crew
available, none more so than the series of books from studies, walk-around close up details in colour with superb
SabIngaMartin Publications. This is the third volume focussing of images of the power-pack and engine bay, beutiful colour profile
the early M48 based tanks developed and modified by the Israeli illustrations and insignia details. Detailed plan drawings in 1:35
forces. Aimed squarly at modellers (the author being one himself finish a very comprehensive one-stop reference which is easily
and a serving IDF Officer) there’s everything you’d want to build accessable if you want to build a ‘proper’ Magach!

Revell 1:35 Fordson W.O.T.6

With around 30,000 War Office Truck 6’s manufactured they were we’re happy to see there’s no attempt at over-scale woodgrain
used worldwide during WWII by commonwealth forces and even and the cab interior is suitably busy with posable doors and a full
seeing service into the 1960s and 70’s; testament to their rugged frame is included for the rear load bed cover (comments have
design. It’s only fitting that we’ve a highly detailed modern tooled been made about the body style being suitable for a
kit in 1:35 of this important soft-skin, last year ICM stepped up to machine/engineer version only? time to check references if this
the mark with a great kit of the Fordson which has now been re- bothers you. The vinyl tyres are a weak-spot of the kit with basic
boxed by Revell. With close to 300 parts this is a kit for the more detail and dubious tread pattern if you’re depicting a WWII vehicle
experienced modeller with a fully detailed multi-part chassis but with the low retail price a set of resin wheels isn’t out of the 53
frame, suspension and flathead V8 with some beautiful detail and question should you wish. Great subject and value from Revell.
fine moulding. The cab and rear body is also finely detailed and Inquiries: [email protected] Website: www.revell.de/en
 Panzers in Berlin
By Lee Archer, Robert Kraska,
Mario Lippert
Published by Panzerwrecks
Hardback format, 392 pages
ISBN 978-1-90803-216-4
www.panzerwrecks.com
Fans of the Panzerwrecks stable will have keenly anticipated this vehicles recorded after the fighting. As the book moves deeper
incredible comprehensive study of the tank combat in the fall of into the city we are treated to a feast of different vehicles, some
Berlin. This big almost 400 page hardback comes with all the will be familiar but having them printed as a full page image and
usual high design and production standards that Panzerwrecks in many cases with remarkable shaprness is a real treat. Photos
are synonymous with and lavishly illustrated both with photos and showing an improvised maintenance area in Wilmersdorf feature
the hyper-real illustrations of Felipe Rodna bringing many of the near intact Panther, Jagdpanzer IV/70, Wirlwind and fabric-draped
featured vehicles to life in full colour. The book begins by looking King Tiger for example. dotted throughout the book are QR codes
at the different German units deployed in the defence of the which will allow smartphone users to view the coded photo
Capital with some fascinating first hand accounts from some of location as it appears today, simply by pointing their camera at
the veterans. The defence of Seelow and the retreat are examined the code. Panther fans will appreciate the rare final production
with a fascinating list of wrecked vehicles catalogued postwar as Daimler-Benz vehicles built with the Ausf.F hull and delivered in
part of the reconstruction process. The book then moves on to full camouflage straight from the factory. The breakout attempts
looking at the city area by area with mostly large full page images by adhoc german forces are documented with streets littered with
of the knocked out or abandoned vehicles suported with excellent destroyed mostly wheeled and APC vehicles and the grim images
captions and peppered with first hand veteran accounts again. of fallen troops attesting to the fruitlessness of the attempts.
There is a fascinating chapter looking at the 10 damaged Postwar collection points for vehicle wrecks and an exhibition of
Panthers and 12 Panzer IV tanks that were repurposed as dug in German war equipment are discussed and throw up more
strongpoints at tactically important junctions after engines and fascinating images. The book concludes with a selection of vehicle
running gear had been removed. These tanks have long provided wrecks who’s location has not been pinpointed and by looking at
inspiration for modellers and this brings them all together with the armarment factories in the area, noteably Daimler Werke 40.
multiple views and more of the evocative colour profiles to provide The book also comes with a loose map of the city, showing the
further inspiration. There is a chapter devoted to the conversion of various districts and the locations of the wrecks from the book.
the Borgward B IV into the B IV Panzerjäger with an improvised A stunning book, fascinating, haunting and surely bound to
54 mounting of 6 Panzerschrecks with some great shots of the new become a classic so snap one up while they are still in print, you
crews inspecting their vehicles as well as plenty of images of the won’t regret it.
 I’ve
recently
come back to modern
armour after a protracted
period of allied WWII and tend to
build any subject that might catch my eye
rather than focus on one area. When I saw the
Trumpeter 6x6 Puma in the local model shop it
56
certainly caught my eye with its one piece angled side
armour and sleek lines, so I picked it up.
The PUMA 6x6 is one of a pair of Italian wheeled Light
Armoured Vehicles developed by Consorzio Iveco Fiat –
Oto Melara for the Italian Army. The vehicle is
manufactured in two main variants, 6 wheeled and 4
wheeled, the former is a light APC and the latter
operates in pairs for reconnaissance. It is in
service with a wide variety of Italian units from
Special forces, to cavalry, Parachute
regiments, Air Assault and Alpini
regiments. They were also sold to the
new government in Libya. Upgrades
including remote control turrets
and armoured upgrade packs
are in development.

57
 The Trumpeter kit is a great example of to avoid them showing in the floor. really a case of trial and error. I made
what can be achieved in modern injection some basic measurements inside the
moulding. Detail is refined and crisp, and I then took a look at the upper hull and the upper hull shell then tried a few shapes,
the kit is reasonably accurate right out of biggest issue the kit presents in adding an testing by sliding the upper hull over the
the box. It also comes with a good size PE interior; the side and rear doors are lower with it in place until I found a good fit.
fret to add extra detail. However, for this moulded shut. I cut these out by carefully I then added a little detail in the form of the
project I wanted to get the most out of the scribing around the doors with the back of driver’s computer screen and pedals.
kit, refining the detail as much as I could the tip of a new blade making quite a few
and adding an interior, so I also purchased light passes until eventually the doors I tend to work in compartments when
the Voyager Update set (35625) and went could be removed. This left me with two doing interiors, to help me focus I work on
for a set of DEF wheels (DW35047) to side doors and the large door in the rear one area at a time. In this case I decided
replace the kit’s vinyl tyres. In addition to wall, but I still had two issues; firstly the to finish the Driver’s station first. Utilising
these being resin rather than vinyl, the doors were too thick and secondly they photos kindly supplied by JW de Boer, I
detail is far sharper and better rendered were now undersized due to the material worked out the right hand console with the
than the kit wheels and they have a removed in cutting them out, so I made gear stick and left hand one full or buttons.
realistic and not overstated ‘weight’ in the new ones from sheet styrene. The seat provided something more of a
sag. I would also be needing plenty of challenge, but multiple photos helped me
styrene sheet and rod. I had a look at the floor and filled all the work it out and I built the frame from
location holes with squadron white filler styrene sheet, rod with some additional
and sanded them smooth, I then started brass rod. The seat upholstery was made
work on the floor to add the basic structure from Tamiya two part epoxy putty, pressed
The instructions have you start by sliding of the actual floor seen in pictures. into shape then allowed to go off for a few
the one piece upper hull over the lower I began with the housings for the minutes before having the detail pressed
floor pan, then attaching the suspension suspension springs, boxing around the and cut into it with various tools. Finally it
parts. As I knew I would be adding an round parts in the kit to get the correct was mounted into a short tube of
interior I added the suspension parts that square structure then sanding it to the right aluminium glued onto the floor.
attached directly to the lower pan first so I shape and adding welds and the domed
could then fill around them from the inside tops. Then I added the firewall. This was

the doors were cut out of the

trumpeter hull, the doors in the
kit are moulded shut

58
the finished interior. It was completed with the crew seats, box , rifle racks
and various electricals
 I didn’t use all of the voyager set, but it did
supply some excellent details

Voyager supplies a superb winch in brass

The right side of the forward compartment styrene sheet and had a hose made from around the compartment. I made this from
was boxed in and I discovered I had got wire wrapped around heat formed styrene shaped styrene, and added the
the driver’s right control console incorrect rod and covered in a couple of layers of Mr commanders grab rail from heat shaped
so I removed it and replaced it with a Surfacer to give the illusion of a ribbed styrene rod, I finish it all by adding the
corrected version including the handbrake. hose. head pads that stop the commander
The steering wheel was added and I The intercom speaker had its inner grill cracking his head when using the
started work on the details for the right supplied again by spare PE from a 1:72 kit, periscopes.
side with boxing in in front of the then styrene strips over that. It was
commander’s seat, the driver’s right mounted with the commander’s intercom After all this ship-in-a-bottle stuff it made
button console and the fire extinguishers; control box. Above this the ammunition sense to paint it before sealing it all up. I
these latter were formed from styrene rod rack was added for the commander’s MG, started with an off white then painted in all
with copper rod hoses and stretched sprue with the driver’s IC box behind it. the details before highlighting the white
‘security ring pulls’. I later added safety Next I built the commander’s chair in much with pure white by hand. The seats were
tags from thin styrene sheet and more the same way as the driver’s seat and left painted a grey-ish blue and highlights
stretched sprue. The extinguishers were the bottom down as if the commander had added in acrylic. I regretted not leaving the
then secured into their holding brackets been stood in the cupola before extinguishers out until after painting, but
with spare straps from an old used PE set. dismounting. I built the crew seats in a managed to get some red on them all the
At this point I decided to remove the roof similar fashion and added the large box to same, although some touch ups on the
to make it easier to work on the interior the compartment before finishing the white were necessary afterwards!
and glued the hull shell onto the floor. I interior with rifle racks made from styrene I finished it with a wash of dirt pigments
thought about adding the engine at this with foil straps, and adding various small mixed in Windsor and Newton Oil thinners,
stage, but with too little reference to work electrical boxes and wiring. then sealed all doors and hatches with
from I decided against it. The only thing on the interior that really masking tape from the inside and glued
needed doing now was the inside of the the hull roof in place.
The air conditioner was put together with hull roof. This has a conduit carrying air

59
 I now moved on to finishing the exterior. I little thicker and so is sometimes more Next I finished the doors with their external
started with the rest of the suspension but I troublesome to bend, so I did use the and internal details, built from stock
have to say that was a bad idea. In voyager alternatives a couple of times. The styrene and spare brass sheet. These were
handling the model to add things later on, I parts I did use though were very good mounted using the very fiddly, but very
managed to break the fragile steering and indeed and I can recommend the set for good, Voyager door hinges. These were in
suspension rods several times. I would what it adds. fact my primary reason for buying the
suggest anyone building the model add In terms of adding my own touches there Voyager set. Again though, this is a job
them last. I did see in the pictures that were not that many on the exterior. I best left till last. After the doors I built the
there is a very fine anti slip texture on the removed the moulded on springs from the M2 MG. This is a beautiful item from
upper surfaces so I added this with two driver’s hatch and the rear hatch. Voyager and the turned barrel and cooling
thin layers of Mr Surfacer, stippling it as it Trumpeter rather unhelpfully put sprue jacket add a great deal to the model when
dried with a scouring pad. attachment points on the springs so rather finished in my opinion.
I got the voyager set for this build as it had than try to clean them up I made new ones I finished the build by adding the very nice
quite a few details I wanted to add from stretched sprue wrapped around Voyager radio mounts and stretched sprue
including a jewel of a winch system. brass rod. Stretched sprue is ideal for this, aerials, and masked off all clear parts. I
However about 60% of the set stayed on you can get it really thin and it remains topped it off with DEF sagged wheels. This
the frets. The smoke launchers, including very elastic. are outstanding, beautiful detail, crisply
the brass tube, supplied by Voyager really I also used stretched sprue to add the cap rendered and an excellent ‘weight’ to the
don’t offer anything over the nicely retention wires to the smoke launchers. tyres that is not overdone. They are a tight
moulded styrene parts and much of the kit Voyager provides chains for this but fit to the axles so make sure you mask
PE is duplicated in the Voyager set, which pictures show wires. those off when painting. It’s that close!
seems pointless, although the kit PE is a

I started painting by giving the whole a provided a good seal and I was relieved to
coat of Alclad II black primer. This is my see I didn’t need to fix up the interior paint
new favourite primer, its easy to spray, work.
gives a good (and importantly: very thin) Weathering began with several highly
finish and is very tough indeed once cured. diluted applications of AMMO ‘Wash for
I followed this up with custom mixed NATO NATO vehicles’ as a pin wash, then what
green from various Tamiya colours, Tamiya that was dried a couple of light all over
Nato Brown straight from the bottle, and a washes with the same. Next I painted in all
custom mixed dark grey brown for the the details and added
black. If I’d started with straight black it some scratches and
would be very difficult to shade it later, and dings with lighter acrylic
as models always get darker as I weather with Vallejo Grey Black in
them I started the ‘black’ and other colours the centre. I didn’t go
lighter. overboard with the
I then removed the masks. Removing the chipping, none of the
masks on the headlights, from behind their photos of Puma’s I have
grills, was not easy, but with a sharpened seen in action show
toothpick I managed to winkle them out them overly worn.
eventually. The masks on the interior had

I started weathering with washes of AMMO

wash for Nato vehicles

I then added the decals, these when on with no

drama. They were settled with Mr Mark Softner, which
I find avoids any silvering later, with or without a
preparatory gloss coat. I no longer bother with the
gloss personally. The wheels were next and I used
Vallejo Grey Black, diluted, on the tyres, giving them a
couple of thin coats by hand, leaving the hub black
from the primer. Once this was dry I gave them a few
light washes from heavily diluted black oil paint.

After this I started on highlights. I mixed a yellowish

green using ochre and jade oil, almost entirely Ochre.

60
I applied this un-thinned in very small dots on upper
edges and other areas I wished to highlight on the model
and worked them in with a clean, soft short haired brush.
I applied a very little at a time and waited for it to dry for
a while before deciding whether I wanted to add more. I
also added very light streaks using the same mix. I also
mixed a lighter grey oil and drybrushed the tyres.

Below At this point I took

a break from painting while the
oils dried and started on the base.
The careful masking of
This was a solid oak base onto which I
the painted interior built a ‘box’ of styrene shaped into the
thankfully paid-off with no profile that I wanted for the ground work. I
need for any retouching. used a styrene floor to the ground work to
avoid moisture seeping into the oak and
causing it to warp. Onto this I layered sheets of
expanded polystyrene to build up most of the height,
saving on weight. On top of this I poured a mix of household filler,
pigments and paints. The pigments and paints mean the mix is the
right colour all the way through so if it cracks later no white shows
through in the cracks. I finished it by pushing ‘grass’ cut from old
paintbrushes into the wet mixture in tufts.
By this time the oils were dry enough again to work
on. I used the diluted AMMO wash to add shade to
lower areas using it as a filter. The enamel based
wash dries very quickly which is a boon considering
the speed at which I prefer to work when weathering.
Once that was dry I added a little more shade around
details with a thin pin wash that I allowed to bleed
slightly into the surrounding areas to provide better
transitions. In other areas I added more oil for
highlights, this time with neat ochre oils. I made
several applications of the light and shade until I had
achieved the contrasts I wanted. Usually I follow this
with a wash to unify it all and soften the contrasts
slightly, but in this case the base colours were already
dark enough and I didn’t want to take that further so I
used restraint in the light and shade to avoid
overdoing it.

There was now a slight

sheen to the model.
Normally I would matt this
down, but in this case I
know modern vehicles are
not usually completely matt,
so I left it as I thought it
would provide a nice textural
contrast to the dead flat ‘dust’ I
was about to add. At this stage I
had to leave it till it totally dried. If I
had added pigments right away they
would get stuck in the oils and ruin the
finish so I left it a good 48 hours to cure.

61
 Once the oils had cured I could
now add pigments. I mixed a
reddish-orangy-brown from
various MIG and AMMO
pigments and diluted it with a lot
of oil thinners. Using a fine brush
I added it in small amounts at a
time around all the details first,
where dust would naturally
collect, then in more dabs,
building it up slowly in other likely
places where it would either
naturally collect, or where crew
would deposit it. It applied more
on the lower surfaces of course,
especially in the wheel arches.

Once the thinners had evaporated I looked so see if I wanted to add more, and
I did, so the process was repeated adding only a little at a time, until I had
built up the effect I wanted to achieve. When it was all dry I gently brushed it
all with a soft wide brush to smooth out the edges. Finally, to duplicate the
streaks seen in some photos where a light rain had run through the dust, I
dipped a fine brush in thinners and with quick downward strokes, added the
streaks of ‘clean’ showing the paint underneath.

To finish the model I painted the sides of the base gloss black. At this point I
fumbled and dropped the base! The plaster cracked and broke off the
polystyrene underneath and at first I thought I had a disaster on my
hands. But then I thought I liked the cracked look. It looked like soil
that had been baked in long weeks of sun, pretty much the right
look for the environment I wanted, so I stuck the pieces back
on with PVA, and ground up the leftover plaster stuck in
the pot it was mixed in and added that to the gaps. I
dripped diluted PVA onto the base to secure it all
and finally (when the glue was dry), I added
some of the same pigment mix I had used
on the model to the base to tie it al
together and give the model and
base the same sense of place

62
 he model was finished with numerous applications of pigments suspended
in oil thinners and the same was applied to the base to finish it

the base was built with coloured plaster to

simulate arid conditions and the model placed
‘dry’ before fixing to test all the wheels would sit
correctly on the adjusted suspension

Conclusion
the trumpeter kit is a great little kit and although it needs
some work to do what I’ve done, it is easier than most kits
to work with as a detailer. The DEF wheels are, I would say,
essential if you want a great looking model. A highly
enjoyable project overall and I would like to thank JW de
Boer for his considerable help which made the build,
especially of the interior, possible.
63