AR 17-53 BUILDING MATERIALS

AND CONSTRUCTION - IV

MODULE I - PAINTING (12 hrs)

MODULE -I
• Plaster: Lime plaster and gypsum plaster. Fire resistant plaster, X-Ray
shielding plaster and acoustic plaster. Plaster over masonry and ceiling.

• Paints and varnish:

1. Characteristics of an ideal paint and varnish.
2. Classification – various types of paints.
3. Painting process.
4. Defects in painting works.
5. Process of varnish.

• Wall cladding : stone cladding, tile cladding, Wooden cladding and metal
cladding. Stucco finish and other finishes.
• Sketches : Stone cladding, Metal cladding
COATINGS
• The purpose of a coating is to protect, preserve, or visually enhance
the surface to which it is applied.
• The principal types of coating are paints, stains, and varnishes.
OBJECTIVES OF PAINTING

Paints are coatings of

fluid materials which are 1.To protect the surfaces 2.To protect the decay of
applied as a final finish to from weathering effects wood and corrosion of
surfaces like walls, ceiling, of the atmosphere metals
wood and metal works.

3.To provide a decoartive

4.To obtain a clean,
finish to obtain a clean,
hygienic and healthy
colorful, and pleasing
living atmosphere.
surface.
Characteristics of a good paint

• A good paint should possess high spreading power and should be durable, tough and
resistant to wear on drying. It should work smoothly and freely and should not crack,
fade or change colour.
• Its surface should become dry in 9 hours and hard enough to take another coat in 24
hours.
• We should be able to spread it into a very thin layer and it should provide a smooth and
pleasing appearance.
PAINTS
CLASSIFICATION
CLASSIFICATION OF PAINTS ON
THE BASIS OF BASE USED

SPECIAL PAINTS – ON THE

BASIS OF PROPERTIES
PAINT ON VARIOUS MATERIALS
PAINT ON VARIOUS MATERIALS
Cement paint

• This paint consists of white cement, pigment , accelerator and other additives. It is available in dry
powder form. Cement paint is available in variety of shades and it exhibits excellent decorative
appearance. It is water-proof and durable.
• It proves to be useful for surfaces which are damp at the time of painting or are likely to become
damp after painting.
• For external finish, on cement-plastered walls, it is mixed with water immediately before its
application. It is desirable to provide cement paint on rough surface rather than on smooth surface
because its adhesion power is poor on smoothly finished surface.
• For painting surfaces like corrugated iron sheets, etc. cement paint is mixed with boiled linseed oil.
The mixture is constantly stirred during use.
Enamel Paint

• This type of paint is produced by adding lead or zinc to varnish.

• Pigments are added to achieve a wide variety of colors.
• Enamel paints form hard and glossy coatings, which are easily cleaned. They are characterized by being
waterproof and chemically resistant, offering good coverage and color retention.
• The following are some common uses of enamel paint:
• Interior and exterior walls
• Wood trims, doors, and flooring
• Windows
• Stairs
• Surfaces like wicker, masonry, concrete, plaster, glass, and metals.
• The main limitations of enamel paint are slow drying, and requiring a titanium coating before application.
Emulsion Paint

• Emulsion paints use polyvinyl acetate and polystyrene as binding materials, and they contain driers
like cobalt and manganese.
• They can be water or oil based, and pigments are used to achieve the desired color.
• Emulsion paints are characterized by their fast drying and hardening, and surfaces can be cleaned
easily with water.
• Once applied, emulsion paints offer durability, good color retention, and alkali resistance.
• Emulsion paints are commonly used for interior walls, ceilings and masonry work.
• Some specialized types of emulsion paints can be used for woodwork.
CONSTITUENTS OF A PAINT

• A Paint is generally made up of following constituents:

• 1.BASE- A base is a solid substance in a form of fine powder, forming the bulk of a paint.
• It is generally a metallic oxide. A base in a paint provides opaque coating to hide the surface to be
painted.
• Commonly used Bases are White Lead, Red Lead, Oxides of Iron and Zinc.
• 2.BINDER– These are liquid substances which hold the different in gradients of a paint in liquid
suspension.
• It makes the paint to spread evenly on the surface. Commonly used Binders are Tug oil, Linseed oil,
poppy oil.
• 3.DRIER– Driers are used to accelerate the process of drying and hardening by extracting oxygen from
atmosphere and transferring it to the Binder.
PAINTING - WALL

Distemper is also known as They are a cheaper option,

cement paint. This is called so and they stay good for more
One is that you can use Both have their advantages
because such kind of paint than 5 years. Distempers are
distemper paint, or you can and disadvantages when it
can be applied directly on used for both interior and
go for emulsions. comes to painting the house.
cement walls without any exterior walls. The usually
other coating on them. need two coatings.

On the other hand, if you

They also last for about 10
settle for emulsions, then you Being better in quality,
years which is very beneficial.
can have smoother finish for emulsions are a little costlier
These work well in a single
your walls. This is oil based as compared to distemper
coat and are somewhat
and it gives a shine to the paints.
washable too.
walls.
DEFECTS IN PAINT WORK

• The defects which are commonly found in paint work are as follow.
• 1. BLISTERING
• Formation of bubbles like shapes on the painted surface is known as blistering. The
primary cause of this defect is water vapor. When water vapor trapped under the paint
layer, it creates bubbles under the film of paint.
• Blistering Defect of Paint
• 2. BLOOMING
• Formation of dull patches on the painted surface is known as blooming. The primary
cause of this defect is poor quality of paint and improper ventilation.
• Blooming Defect of Paint
• 3. FADING
• When there is a gradual loss of colour from the pained surface, it is known as fading.
The main cause of this defect is the reaction of sunlight on pigments of paint.
• Fading Defect of Paint
 DEFECTS IN PAINT WORK
• 4. FLAKING
• In this type of defect, some portion of the paint film is not sticked properly with the surface;
resulting flaking off of the paint layer. This is cause due to poor adhesion between paint and
the surface to be painted.
• Flaking Defect of Paint
• 5. FLASHING
• Presence of glossy patches on the painted surface is known as flashing. The cause of this
defect is mainly due to poor workmanship, cheap paint or weather actions.
• Flashing Defect of Paint
• 6.GRINNING
• If the thickness of the final coat of paint becomes very thin, the background can be seen
clearly. This is known as grinning. Poor workmanship is the main cause of this defect.
• 7. MILDEW
• Occurs in moist humid conditions ( bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms) when using alkyd or
oil based paint or lower quality paint. Can occur due to failure to prime wood before painting
and not successfully removing mildew from the surface before repainting .
 DEFECTS IN PAINT WORK – REFER ASSIGNMENT
• 7. RUNNING
• This type of defect is seen when the surface to be painted is very smooth. In case of smooth
surface the paint runs back and leaves small areas of surface uncovered.
• Running Defect of Paint
• 8. SAGGING
• This type of defect is more prominent when a thick layer of paint is applied on a vertical or
inclined surface.
• Sagging Defect of Paint
• 9. SAPONIFICATION
• Formation of soap patches on the painted surface is termed as saponification. Chemical
action of alkalis is the cause of this defect.
• Saponification Defect of Paint
• 10. WRINKLING
• This type of defect is more prominent when a thick layer of paint is applied on a horizontal
surface
 WHITE WASHING AND COLOUR WASHING OF NEW WALLS
White Wash And Colour Washing
White washing and colour washing of surfaces of building is necessary on both hygienic and aesthetic reasons. In
order to obtain a clean, neat and uniform finish, it is necessary to adopt proper method for both preparation of
surface to receive white wash or colour wash and for application of white wash or colour wash.
Preparation of White Wash
White wash is prepared from fat lime. The lime is slaked at the site and mixed and stirred with about five liters
of water for 1 kg of unslaked lime to make a thin cream. This should be allowed to stand for a period of 24 hours, and
then should be screened through a clean coarse cloth. One kg of gum is dissolved in hot water may also be added for
every 10 kg of lime. Sometimes, rice is used in the place of gum.
The application of sodium chloride (common salt) to lime-wash helps in quick carbonation of calcium hydroxide
making the coating hard and rub-resistant. Small quantity of ultra-marine blue (up to 3 gm per kg of lime) may be
added to the last two coats of white wash solution.
• Preparation of Surface
• The new surface should be thoroughly cleaned off all dirt, dust mortar drops and other foreign matter before
whitewash is to be applied. Old surfaces already white-washed or colour-washed should be broomed to remove
all dust and dirt. All loose scales of lime wash and other foreign matter should be removed. Where heavy scaling
has taken place, the entire surface should be scraped clean, any growth of moulds moss should be removed by
scrapping with steel scraper and ammonical copper solution consisting of 15 gm of copper carbonate dissolved
in 60 ml of liquor ammonia in 500 ml of water, should be applied to the surface and allowed to dry thoroughly
before applying white or colour wash.

• Application of White Wash

• Whitewash is applied with moonj or other brush, to the specified number of coats (generally three). The
operation in each coat should consist of a stroke of the brush given from top down-wards, another from the
bottom upwards over the first before it dries. Each coat should be allowed to dry before the next coat is applied.
The white washing on ceiling should be down prior to that on walls.
• Colour Washing
• Colour washing is prepared by adding colouring pigment to the screened white wash. Generally used pigments
are yellow earth red ocher and blue vitriol. These are crushed to powder, before mixing. The colour wash is
applied in the same fashion as the white wash. For colour washing on new surface, the first primary coat should
be of white wash and the subsequent coats should be of colour wash.
DISTEMPERING
Distempering

Distempers are considered to be water-paints. A distemper is composed of the following:

A base, such as whiting or chalk.
A carrier( water)
A binder, such as glue or casein.
Colouring pigments.
Water – bound distempers are available in power or paste form, and they are mixed with
hot water before use.
Oil bound distempers are a variety of oil paint, in which the drying oil is so treated that it mixed
with water.
Glue or casein is the emulsifying agent. Oil bound distempers are washable. Distempers are cheaper
than oil paints. They are generally light in colour and they provide good reflective coating. However,
they are less durable than oil paints.
DISTEMPERING
• Both Emulsions & Distempers have a few similarities as both are durable, and offer a wide range of shades to choose from.
• But some clear differences are that Emulsion paints give a silky and smooth finish to your walls, are more durable and long
lasting, in addition to offering a wider range of shades to choose from.
• They are cheaper than paints and varnishes and they present a neat appearance. They are available in a variety of colors.

PROPERTIES OF DISTEMPERS
• On drying, the film of distemper shrinks. Hence, it leads to cracking and flaking, if the surface to distemper is weak.
• The coating of distemper is usually thick and they are more brittle than other types of water paints.
• The film developed by distemper is porous in character and it allows water vapour to pass through it. Hence, it permits new
walls to dry out without damaging the distemper film.
• They are generally light in colour and they provide a good reflective coating.
• They are less durable than oil paints.
• They are treated as the water paints and they are easy to apply.
• They can be applied on brickwork, cement plastered surface, insulating board, etc.
• They exhibit poor workability.
• They prove to be unsatisfactory in damp locations such as kitchens and bathrooms.
DISTEMPER
• The basic constituent of distemper is chalk, lime and water. Distemper is also known as cement paint.
• This is called so because such kind of paint can be applied directly on cement walls without any other coating on them it’s not required primer.
• They are a cheaper option and they stay good for more than 5 to 6 years.
• Distempers are used for both interior and exterior walls. The usually need two coatings. There are three types of distemper available in
market Acrylic Distemper, Synthetic Distemper and UNO Acrylic Distemper.

PROS OF DISTEMPER PAINT

• Distempers doesn’t need any primer quoting can be directly applied on cement surface without any preparations.
• They are less expensive compared to other alternatives.
• They stay long and up to three to five years.
• They have a distinctive smell.
• They don’t dry or crack in sunlight.
CONS OF DISTEMPER PAINT
• They quality will not be great when compared to other paints.
• Distemper paint peels off when wet.
• It’s not fully washable.
• Distemper colour will fade time being quickly then emulsion.
Primer, Undercoat & Finish coat

• A painting system for a given material usually consists of:- primer, undercoat & finish coat
• Paint Primer Priming ensures better adhesion of paint to the surface, increases paint durability, and
provides additional protection for the material being painted.
• Adheres well to the background and evens out the surface porosity. With ferrous metals, controls
rust. Care must be taken to choose suitable primer for the material to be covered.
• Undercoat Adheres to the primer, builds up the paint thickness and obliterates surface irregularities.
The undercoat should bring the surface to a suitable colour for receiving the finishing coat. Two coats
of undercoat are usually required.
• Finish Adheres to the undercoat and provides a protective layer, colour and surface texture.
Primer, Undercoat & Finish coat

• A painting system for a given material usually consists of:- primer, undercoat & finish coat
• Paint Primer Priming ensures better adhesion of paint to the surface, increases paint durability, and
provides additional protection for the material being painted.
• Adheres well to the background and evens out the surface porosity. With ferrous metals, controls
rust. Care must be taken to choose suitable primer for the material to be covered.
• The primer must be applied before painting either in outside building’s components or inside
partitions and walls.
• It is really important to prepare the surface by sanding it before applying any coat of primer paint.
• The most important function of the primer is that it will assure that the surface being painted will last
longer and the final product can be more eye-appealing.
EMULSION
• Emulsion Paint typically consists of pigment, resin, solvent and additives.
• Emulsion is water-based paint. As compared to oil-based paint, working with emulsion paint is far better.
• Many homeowners find it efficient and suitable for their home.
• There are many benefits of applying emulsion on walls like it’s easy to clean and maintain and it avoids the
potent odors that comes from the oil-based paints.
PROS OF EMULSION PAINT
• Emulsion stays longer then Distemper paint up to four to five years.
• Emulsion paint has attractive smell.
• They don’t dry or crack in sunlight.
• The quality and finishing is better while compared to Distemper paints.
• Emulsion paint won’t peel off when wet.
• It’s washable and color won’t be fading in time being.
CONS OF EMULSION PAINT
• Emulsion paints are expensive compared to Distemper Paints.
• Emulsion need primer and putty quoting before applying on wall.
Painting Plastered Surfaces
• Newly plastered surface may contain considerable moisture. Hence painting should be resorted to only after 3 to 6
months of plastering. Calcareous surfaces to lime and cement plastered surfaces are highly alkaline because lime is
liberated during hydration of cement.
• Due to this, oil based paints and distempers are liable to alkali attack. Hence it is essential to apply alkali resistant
primer.
• Absorption of liquid from a paint by a porous surface is known as suction. High suction may make the paint difficult to
apply and leave the coating in an under bound condition.
• Uneven suction may cause lack of uniformity in the finished appearance. The variation in suction characteristic of the
surfaces to be painted require corresponding variation of the priming coat, or, in some cases, the use of glue size,
petrifying liquid or sealers according to the type of paint to be used.
• Surfaces which show local variations in suction, as for example, between individual bricks or on patches produced on
plastered surfaces by local over-trowelling Or by efflorescence, should be treated by the application of a suitable
primer.
• If the suction is so high or variable that normal painting procedure is likely to give a good finish pretreatments should be
applied over the whole surface as a primer, according to the type of paint to be used.
FINISHING WORKS - PAINTING

1. Pre-painting work
2. Surface preparation
3. Painting

1.PRE-PAINTING WORKS
• Patching
• Sanding
• Cleaning
• Priming
2.SURFACE PREPARATION

• Allow newly plastered surface to mature for a period of at least 6 months before painting.
• Rectify existing surface problems such as dampness, cracks etc. before actual painting process.
• Check for hand prints, greasy fingerprints, algae as well as dirt and stained marks.
• Use a scraper, putty knife or scrub brush to remove any dirt, grease, rust, or flaking.
• Fill in the holes, cracks and joints with plaster.
• Clean and dry the surface.
• Make sure the area to be painted is well ventilated as well as free of dust.
• As far as possible, don’t paint under much humid conditions.
3.PAINTING
• Objects to be Painted
1. Interior walls
2. Exterior Walls
3. Metal Surfaces
4. Wooden Surfaces
INTERIOR WALLS
• Apply a coat of Wall Primer (water thinnable) on new surfaces.
• Fill and level the minor undulations of wall by applying putty.
• In case of major undulations on the wall surface, POP (Plaster of Paris) work needs to be carried out.
• Ensure that the surface is uniformly smooth by sanding after POP or putty work.
• One liberal coat of Wall Primer (solvent thinned or water thinned) is recommended on puttied areas before the application of
top coat.
• The primer should be allowed to dry for 10 - 12 hours.
• If the primer coat is not applied over the puttied areas, there can be a patchy appearance of the top coat.
• Avoid application of putty or filling compound while painting exterior surfaces.
• Fill up cracks with a 1:3 (by volume) cement and sand mixture.
Walls - Process of painting

Surface Preparation-
• Surface preparation is important because it directly affects the surface finish of the paint.
• A paint scrapper, a putty knife or a sand paper is used to remove loose particles or flakes and the surface is made
enough and free from dust, dirt, grease etc.
• All loose material is removed and filled with plaster or putty mixture.
Primer coating-
• It is essential, especially when the walls to be painted are stained, porous, have water damage or when we are
painting a light colour over a dark color or vice versa.
• Primers help provide a smooth surface, making the surface less absorbent, thus increasing the spreading
capacity of the paint. Using primer on the kitchen, bathroom and exterior walls is especially important to aid in
the prevention of mildew.
• Primer helps give uniform colour and texture to the finished paint, and provide better adhesion to the top coats.
• The type of primer used is also dependent on the kind of surface to be painted, i.e. different primers exist for
interior walls, exterior walls, wood, metals etc.
Walls - Process of painting
Putty Coat :
• Putties are generally used in the case of fresh painting or walls that require total overhauling just like fresh walls,
they may not be used for repainting or touch up exercises.
• Wall putty should be applied to walls after first primer coat has dried. It will fill in minor cracks and surface
imperfections and provide a protective sub-layer for the expensive paint.
• As per the requirement 1-2 coats of putty can be applied, but it is required to allow the previous coat to dry
before applying subsequent coat.
Second Primer Coat :
• Generally repainting services require a single coat of primer, but for fresh surfaces or the surfaces that need
considerable leveling and removal of undulations, two primer coats are required.
• Care must be taken that the second primer coat be applied only after the previous putty coat has dried
completely.
Finish Coat :
• Generally two coats of finish coat are required to get the desired finish and color. It is important that each coat
must be completely dry before the application of next one.
Wood Finish Paints
• Wood Finish Paints are different from the usual wall paints and are formulated specifically for
application on wooden surfaces.
• They have better capacity of adhering to the wooden surfaces and enhancing the appeal of the
wooden textures.
• These include wood sealers, varnishes, preservatives etc.
Wooden finishing is also done by polishing the surface which is formed by the following ingredients:
•Spirit
•Lacquers(Lakhdana)
•Chalk powder
•Polish colors
•Turkey umber
•Raw sena
•Brunt sena
•Kajal
•Pevdi
PAINTING
ON WOOD
WOOD WORKS - VARNISHING

IT IS APPLIED ON WOOD SURFACES WITH THE FOLLOWING OBJECTIVES

• To intensify the appearance of natural grains in wood.
• To render brilliancy to the painted surface.
• To protect the painted surface from atmospheric action.
• To protect unpainted wooden surfaces of doors, windows, floors,
roof trusses etc. from atmospheric action
VARNISH
• Varnish is a clear transparent hard protective finish or film.
• Varnish has little or no color and has no added pigment as
opposed to paint or wood stain which contains pigment.
• However, some varnish products are marketed as a combined
stain and varnish.
• Varnish is primarily used in wood finishing applications where
the natural tones and grains in the wood are intended to be
visible.
• It is applied over wood stains as a final step to achieve a film
for gloss and protection.
• Varnish finishes are usually glossy but may be designed to
produce satin or semi-gloss sheens by the addition of
"flatting" agents.
• The term "varnish" refers to the finished appearance of the
product. It is not a term for any single or specific chemical
composition or formula.
 WOOD WORKS - VARNISHING
COMPONENTS OF VARNISH
• Varnish is traditionally a combination of a drying oil, a resin, and
a thinner or solvent. However, different types of varnish have different components.
• After being applied, the film-forming substances in varnishes either harden directly,
as soon as the solvent has fully evaporated, or harden after evaporation of the
solvent through curing processes
• Resin varnishes "dry" by evaporation of the solvent and harden almost immediately
upon drying.
• Acrylic and waterborne varnishes "dry" upon evaporation of the water but will
experience an extended curing period.
• Oil, polyurethane, and epoxy varnishes remain liquid even after evaporation of the
solvent but quickly begin to cure, undergoing successive stages from liquid or
syrupy, to tacky or sticky, to dry gummy, to "dry to the touch", to hard.
• Originally, the term "varnish" referred to finishes that were made entirely of resin
dissolved in suitable solvents, either ethanol (alcohol) or turpentine.
• Many different kinds of resins may be used to create a varnish. Natural resins used
for varnish include amber, kauri gum, dammar, copal, rosin (pine
resin), sandarac, balsam, elemi, mastic, and shellac.
• Varnish may also be created from synthetic resins such as acrylic, alkyd,
or polyurethane.
 Types Of Varnishes
Varnishes may be divided into the following four
categories, depending upon the type of solvent used:

• Oil varnishes
• These varnishes use linseed oil as solvent in which hard resins such as amber and copal are dissolved by heating.
These varnishes dry slowly, but form hard and durable surface. Sometimes, small quantity of turpentine is added to
make the varnish more workable. Oil varnishes are recommended for all external wood work, and for joinery and
fittings.
• Spirit varnishes or lacquers
• These varnishes are methylated spirit of wine as solvent in which soft resins such as lac or shellac are dissolved. They
dry quickly, but are not durable. French polish is a variety of this type varnish. It is commonly used on furniture.
• Turpentine varnishes
• These varnishes use turpentine as solvent in which soft resins such as gum dammer, mastic and rosin are dissolved.
The varnish dries quickly, but is not so durable. These are cheaper than oil varnishes.
• Water varnishes
• These varnishes are formed by dissolving shellac in hot water, using enough quantity of ammonia, borax, potash or
soda. Water varnishes are used for varnishing wall papers, maps pictures, book jackets, etc.
CHARACTERISTICS OF A GOOD VARNISH

• It should dry quickly.

• The protective film obtained on drying should be hard, tough, durable, and resistant to wear.
• The finished surface should be uniform in nature and pleasing in appearance.
• It should exhibit a glossy surface.
• It should not shrink or show cracks on drying.
• The colour should not fade with time.

TYPES OF VARNISHES

• Oil Varnishes – These varnishes use linseed oil as solvent in which hard resins such as amber and copal are
dissolved by heating.
These varnishes dry slowly, but form hard and durable surface.
• Spirit Varnishes – These are methylated spirit of wine as solvent in which soft resins such as lac are dissolved.
They dry quickly. • Turpentine Varnishes – They use turpentine as solvent in which soft resins such as gum dimmer
are dissolved.
• Water Varnishes – These are formed by dissolving shellac in hot water.
NEW WOODWORK

• Normally, four coats of paint are required for new woodwork. The process of painting is as follows:
• The surface of the woodwork is prepared to receive the paint for satisfactory working.
• It is necessary that the woodwork is sufficiently seasoned and it does not contain more than 15 per
cent moisture at the time of painting.
• The surface of the woodwork is thoroughly cleaned and the heads of nails are punched to a depth of
3 mm below the surface.
• The surface of the woodwork is then knotted.
• The process of cleaning the surface using sand paper is then carried out.
• The subsequent coats of paint, namely undercoat and finishing coats, are then applied on the surface.
• Extreme care should be taken to see that the finishing coat presents a smooth and even surface and
that no brush marks are seen on the finished surface.
• TURPENTINE
• A colorless volatile liquid distilled from the products of certain pine trees and consists of a complex
mixture Terpene hydrocarbon.
Turpentine was formerly extensively used in paints and varnishes but has now been largely replaced by
white spirit