LESSON TERMINOLOGY IN DRAPING
LEARNING OUTCOME
At the end of the lesson, you must have;
1. Identified the different terms and terminology used in draping;
2. Discussed the terms and terminology used in draping
3. Familiarized the different terms and terminology in draping.
LEARNING CONTENT
Draping is an art and like any other artisan, it requires familiarization of the
different terms and terminology used in draping.
The following are the different terms and terminology used in draping.
Here are the common terms and terminology that are commonly used in
draping.
Abbreviations
CF – Center Fold
CB – Center Back
Diagrams
Flat sketches The two-dimensional line drawings that are made from
photographs as a blueprint for construction and grainline configuration.
Muslin-preparation diagrams The charts at the beginning of each project
with the measurements of the pieces of muslin to be cut. If the measurements of
the form you are using are different from the standard form used here, simply
adjust the dimensions of the muslin pieces up or down.
The measurements of the pieces have an allowance of several extra
inches, so unless your form is 3" (7.5 cm) different, the pieces will work.
Fit and figure
Ease The extra fabric allowed in the fi t of a garment. For example, if the
waistline measurement is 26" (66 cm) and the skirt waistband measurement is
27" (68.5 cm), then there is 1" (2.5 cm) ease in the skirt/ waist fi t.
Bust point The fullest part of the bust.
Waistline The narrowest part of the waist area on the form.
Hipline The fullest part of the hip, usually considered to be 7" (18 cm)
down from the waist.
High hipline This measurement is taken about 2–3" (5–7.5 cm) down
from the waist at the hipbone where casual pants, such as jeans, often sit.
Princess line The vertical line that divides the torso in half from center
front to side seam. Usually it begins at the center of the shoulder, but it can also
curve out from the armhole.
Muslin Length grain The warp thread
Grainlines These refer to the direction, sometimes called the
direction of the threads. Woven fabrics straight grain
consist of two threads interlaced at right
angles. The vertical or “warp” threads
run parallel to the selvage. The
horizontal or “weft” thread runs
crosswise.
.
Cross grain The weft thread
direction.
Bias line This Selvage edge The bound edges
runs at 45° to the on either side of the fabric. Most
length grain and is fabrics are woven at
the part of the 45–60" (115–150 cm) wide.
fabric that has the Blocking the muslin To stretch,
most give. pull, and press the muslin until the
warp/vertical and weft/ horizontal
threads of the weave are
perpendicular and the edges are
straight.
Stitching Baste To hand-sew a stitch line to
Sew line This is referred to in hold a seam together temporarily.
draping and in truing up, and is simply
the stitching line that will be used to join
the seams.
Thread trace Catch stitch A useful stitch for
A hand-sewn holding together two pieces of
straight stitch line muslin during draping in areas that
used to mark may have some pressure pulling on
seams or edges them.
during draping or
the marking and truing-up process.
Tailor tack A stitch used to mark a single point on the fabric during draping
and the marking and truing-up process.
Drape – Draping is the process of cutting, pinning, slashing, and marking
muslin or fabric in developing a pattern or design on the model form or live
figure.
Cutting -The preparation of a determined length ar width of muslin or fabric
to drape a garment section
Pinning -The process of anchoring the fabric to the model form on
structural, guide and grain lines; the process of securing fabric while developing
pattern shape, deta and perimeter lines.
Slashing -The clipping of muslin or fabric towards the pinned perimeter of
the area being draped to relieve fabric tension and facilitate subsequent
draping procedure.
Marking -The recording, while on the model form, of the perimeter,
intersecting lines, and pattern details in preparation for trueing.
Apex • Highest point of a bust on a dress form or live model. Reference
point for establishing the cross grain position on the front bodice
Balance • The matching of grains and adjacent pattern sections
Bias • A line diagonally across the grain of the fabric that offers the
considerable amount of stretch ability. • True bias means at a 45 degree angle
Blend • A technique that helps to form a smooth, continuous line . •
smoothly shapes variation of arks or dots made on the muslin fabric drape.
Blocking • 1. A technique to shape fabric by puling and dealing it on grain
while pressing it with steam ironing process.
2. A bock is a master pattern or sloper
Break Point • The point of a controlled turn, roll, or flare, usually relating to
coat, jacket, lapels, • shawl collars, revere collars, and notched collars are the
suitable examples.
Center Back • A defined place that indicates the exact center of the pattern
part or garment in relation to the true centre front of the human figure.
Centre Front • A defined place that indicates the exact centre of the pattern
part or garment in relation to the true centre front of the figure.
Clip • A small cut into the seam allowance that extends almost to the stitch
line. Which normally releases strain and helps the seam portion lay flat.
Concave Curve • An inside curved seam forming an inward arc, as in
armholes or necklines portion.
Convex Curve • An outward curved seam forming a rounded curve, as on
the outer edge of scallops, caplets, Peter Pan collars, and shawl collars of the
garments.
Crease • Folding and finger pressing the fabric along the grain or structural
line. • Cross mark • A mark or set of marks placed on a drape or pattern portion
to indicate the point at which corresponding pieces or garment sections are to
be matched, shirred, or joined.
Crosswise Grain "Cross grain“. • The section of fabric weave that runs
perpendicular to the lengthwise grain of the fabric from selvage to
selvage.(picks) •
Crotch Seam • The curved seam that is formed at the point where pant legs
are joined together.
Cut in one • Two or more pattern sections that are cut as one piece, for
example is the attached front facing with the bodice or blouse front, or a sleeve
with a bodice portion.
Dart • A design and fitting feature used to take up excess fabric of a
specified width and taper it to nothing at one or both ends. Aids in fitting the
garment over the body contour.
Dart Legs • The stitch line on both sides of the dart.
Dot • A pencil mark is placed on a draped muslin or self fabric to register
the seam lines or style lines. • Used as the guide mark for trueing.
Ease of seam • The even distribution of very slight fullness when one
section of a seam is joined to a slightly shorter section without forming gathers
or tucks. • Used to shape set-in sleeves, princess seams, and other areas of
the garment.
Ease Allowance • The amount of excess fabric added to the draped pattern
to make garments more comfortable and allow for affordable easier movement.
• Due to this factor wearer feel more comfort.
Fabric Excess • The amount of extra fabric manipulated into designated
areas of the garment portion to help the create body shape and garment style
lines. • Fold a fabric ply that doubles back on itself.
Gather • To draw up fabric fullness on a line of stitching areas. • Grain • The
direction of the yarns in a fabric, warp and weft.
Guidelines on Muslin • Directional lines and markings that indicate the
grain, cross grain, center front, center back, shoulder blade, bust level, apex,
hip level, and side seam. These lines are drawn on the prepared muslin to
facilitate correct draping.
Lengthwise Grain • Threads that run parallel to the selvedge of the fabric.
• Also known as the "warp" (ends)or "straight of grain"
Master Pattern • Basic pattern, made from specific measurements to be
used as a template for tracing rather than cutting. • Match • To bring together
notches or other construction markings on two pieces.
Model Form • • A criterion identical of a human upper and lower torso, set
on a movable, height- adjustable stand. -To measure and setup the sloper or
master pattern. -To establish an original pattern. -To form a garment from
fabric. -To fit sample garments as per dress form sizes. -To alter the garments.
-To establish hemline on garments. Model form (dress form)is available in a
range of standard sizes, height and figure types; according to measurements
of a particular size and type of figure for a manufacturer's line; customized to
specifications of individuals or manufacturers.
Muslin Shell • A basic sample garment is normally made from the muslin
fabric as an aid during the styling and fitting process.
Notch • Mark placed on drape or pattern to indicate the position where
corresponding garment sections are to be matched together and sewn and to
identify various parts of the drape or pattern
Panel parts. • A re measured piece of muslin used to drape a specific
design. Usually 4-10 inches larger than the finished length and width of the
pattern piece.
Pivot • The shifting or moving of a pattern from a specified marked position
toward a designated guidline.
Ply-single • One layer of fabric when laying out fabric to be cut is called
single ply.
Princess Panel • The area of the dress form that extends from the princess
seams to the armholes and side seams of the upper torso.
Shirring • Gather up fabric on the stitch line where the fullness in the
garment is desired. Sometimes thought of as multiple rows of gathers will be
formed.
Side Seam • A defined place on a pattern or garment that indicates the
point at which the front and back of a garment is sewn together, upper torso
side part and lower torso side part.
Slash • A straight cut from the outer edge of the fabric into the style line of
the garment. Made to relieve tension, allowing drape to fit around contour of
the body.
Squared Line • A straight line drawn perpendicular from another line. Use
an L-squared ruler.
Stitch Line • The line designated for stitching the seam, generally 5/8”,
½”,3/8” or 1/4 inch from the cut edge of the garment patterns.
Style line • Any seam line other than the shoulder seam. armhole seam, or
side portion seam. Usually runs from one point of the garment to another point.
Transferring • The process of pinning and tracing all the fabric markings
onto the pattern paper.
Trim • To cut away excess fabric and make the seam narrower after it has
been stitched. Removes unwanted bulk and excess fabric.
Trueing • The process of blending the markings, dots, and cross marks
made during the draping process. Trueing establishes continuous seams, style
lines, and darts or dart variations.
Underlay • The underside of a draped design that is made when
establishing darts, pleats, and extensions.
Vanishing Point • The tapered finished point of a dart in the garment
portion.
