History of world Textiles

Motifs & Meanings of Symbols

Textile Motifs
A motif is the most basic unit or the
smallest unit of pattern.

Motifs are repeated in different ways to

create patterns and these patterns are
repeated to create a design. Motif has a
distinct identity of its own in a pattern or
design.

The term ‘Motif’ refers to a design or

figure that consists of recurring shapes or
colours, as in architecture or decoration.
 Textile Motifs
Leisure or Varied patterns found on textiles are often symbolic, based on
Loungewear Prints religious and cultural background, steeped in the belief that the
symbols and motifs used will ensure fertility, prosperity,
protection from evil spirits to the wearer, or the patterns are linked
to religious beliefs.

Modern African

Tribal Feel
 Textile Motifs

Indian Classical
Tribal Prints

Bohemian
Kids Wear Prints
Symbol is anything that is used for identification of
Textile Motifs
attributes, or meaning of an object beyond its
actual character, shape, form, color and use.

The symbols normally spread beyond their

originating region or culture.

With time many symbols change their meaning

and represent something other than their earlier
association.

The meanings of the symbols may vary from

region to region or from culture to culture but over
all there is a common sutra that ties them all. Symbols used in Textile Designing
Types of Motifs Textile Motifs
Geometric, Natural, Abstract,
Stylized

Motifs are used to establish a

theme or a certain mood; they
have a symbolic meaning.

If you convert by techniques

these are the methods of
implementing textile designs -
weaving, printing, dyeing,
embroidery and knitting.
 Textile Motifs

Geometric
Abstract

Natural or
Stylized
Realistic
 Paisley Motif
Paisley, an important motif is widely used in Indian
textiles and embroideries, is a droplet-shaped
motif which resembles a mango so it is called
mangai motif or Ambi which means mango in
Punjab.

'Boteh' is a Persian word meaning bush, shrub,

cluster of leaves or a small dense forest of small
trees or bushes.

Due to huge shawl production in Paisley, Scotland,

the pattern was given the name paisley.

It is also known as Carrey design named after Urdu

word for mango seed.
 Kalash Motif
Amongst all auspicious symbols used in
Indian art throughout history, Kalasha-the
holy ceremonial water jar hold a special
place. It is an important part of ceremonial
occasions and wedding in Hindu culture.

The kalasha or Purna Kumbha as one of

the auspicious (mangala) symbols
represents the womb and the fertilizing
waters of life.

With time craftsmen started using it as

motif in the enrichment of textiles through
weaving, embroidery or printing.
Fish Motif
In most of the folk cultures and folklore, the
fish is considered as a universal symbol of
fertility and symbol of purity in many
cultures. It is known for its beauty and free
flow body is thought of as a symbol of the
life force, a force of regeneration and
reincarnation and a charm against the evil
eye.

Its symbol in Chinese culture is commonly

found in most places of business or
wherever a person wishes to enhance.
abundance.
 Parrot Motif
Parrots are love birds considered as vehicle of
Kamadeva, God of love and sex in Hindu
mythology.

It symbolizes sensual desires, courtship and

passion seen in Indian art mostly in company of
Krishna and Radha, Hinduism’s eternal lovers.

Motif of parrot is generally found in textiles

from West Bengal, Patolas of Gujarat and
Paithani of Maharashtra, applique work of
Orissa, Rajasthan embroideries and resist
textiles.
 Peacock Motif
Considered as a pious bird by the Hindus, peacock is one of the
most important motif used in embroidery and textile
ornamentation be on cotton or silk fabric alike. Ras leelas of
Lord Krishna or dances too are associated with peacock.

The motifs is favourite of

people of Punjab and Himachal
Pradesh and can be seen as a
decorative motif on the walls in
bright colours. A vehicle of
goddess Saraswati, it finds
mention in Rig-veda and
Atharva-veda.
 Palmette Motif
The essence of the palmette is a
symmetrical group of spreading
"fronds" that spread out from a
single base, normally widening as
they go out, before ending at a
rounded or fairly blunt pointed tip.

In the repeated border design

commonly referred to as
anthemion. Implication is that it is
from this apparently occult and
magical, undivided source that
fertility and new life spring.
 The Tree Of Life
The idea illustrated by this motif is
that all living things on this earth are
interconnected. With branches of
tree reaching out to sky , roots deep
in earth, the motif projects the idea of
sustenance of all life forms amid
fertility, knowledge, nourishment,
protection and in the end death.

Found across civilizations, Tree of life is an ancient motif having a

long history.

According to Hindu mythology it is known as Kalp- Taru or a symbol

of wish fulfilment.
 Spirals, step patterns, and key patterns are
dominant motifs in Celtic art before the Christian
influence on the Celts, which began around 450.

In the beginning, the patterns were intricate

interwoven cords, called plaits, which can also be
found in other areas of Europe, such as Italy, in the
6th century.
Celtic Symbols

These designs found their way

into early Christian manuscripts
and artwork with the addition of
depictions from life, such as
animals, plants and even
humans.
 Textile Repeat Patterns
The job of a textile designer is so
fascinating – ideating and creating
beautiful patterns on fabrics. But how do
they arrange these patterns?

Did you ever pay attention to the pattern on

different fabric segments? And when that
pattern starts again, it is called a repeat.

Repeat patterns may run horizontal or

vertical.
 Textile Repeat Patterns
Allover basically means covering the entire surface with
motifs distributed all over the fabric.

Depending on the way the grid is created for repeating a

motif, all over designs can be classified into:
1. Full Drop
2. Fractional Drop
In a full drop repeat pattern, the motifs are placed in a
simple grid.
The motifs can mirror each other, they can be placed in
horizontal or vertical direction.
Vertical Full Drop

Horizontal Full Drop

Reverse Drop
Textile Repeat Patterns
 Textile Repeat Patterns
These are called as reverse drop, horizontal drop
and vertical drop respectively.
In a fractional drop the motifs are placed in
between each other.

They can be placed exactly in the middle of each

other, or at 1/4th distance or at 3/4th distance.
Examples of such drop repeats are half drop, one
fourth drop and three fourth drop.
 Border Designs
In a border design the motifs The many ways to repeat a border design are:
are repeated in a linear
manner. ➔ Translation

Examples of such designs are

borders in Indian sarees. ➔ Reflection

➔ Rotation

➔ Glide Reflection
Knitting Weaving

Embroidery

Printing Lace & Crochet

Methods used in Textile Designing
 Origins of Textile Designing
Weaving is one of the primary methods
of textile production and it involves
interlinking a set of vertical threads with
a set of horizontal threads.

During the Neolithic Era mankind

developed great skill in weaving cloth.
Every household produced cloth for
their own needs. Weaving cloth
remained an activity associated with
the family unit for thousands of years. The Grecian Weaving Loo
 Origins of Textile Designing
The overland trade routes that spread
from Asia to the European countries
were a conduit for textiles, spices and
other exotic goods.

During the eleventh and twelfth

centuries, there was a flow of Eastern
goods into France.

The designs and colors of the Eastern

yard goods were sources of inspiration
The Great Silk Route
to the growing French textile
companies.
 Origins of Textile Designing
For the next several centuries, the
growth of the French textile industry
was spurred on by demands of the
wealthy in France and by orders for
cloth from the king's court and from the
papal court which was located in
Avignon, France.

From the date of the 1759 until the I World War, the French textile industry produced
some of the most glorious textile designs and motifs in the world with an unequaled
confidence, inspiration and imagination.
 Textile Dyeing
Textile dyeing is application
of a coloring matter to the
fabric evenly all over the
material using dyes or
pigment.

Dyes can be applied to fibres,

yarns or fabric and
sometimes after the garment
is produced.
 Textile Printing
Printing is localized dyeing on the surface of the
fabric according to a predetermined design.

The two primary techniques of printing on textile

fabrics can be classified as coloring and patterning.

The former technique consists of the direct

application of color to fabric whereas the latter
technique involves painting with resist techniques
using patterns prior to coloring or dyeing the fabric.
 Embroidered Textiles
Embroidery is the art of decorating the
surface of fabric with stitches that are
decorative in order to create a design.

Threads, sequins, beads, feathers and any

other unconventional materials can be
used to create a design.

Hand sewing needle is used to create the

embroidery and also special purpose
embroidery machines.
Creating Artwork for All Over Designs
You can create the artwork by hand or on
any CAD software like Adobe Illustrator or
Corel Draw.

You need a 20 cm by 20 cm canvas and

you can divide this into 4 rows and 4
columns.

Decide the amount of spacing needed

between the motifs in the repeat and fix
the size of the motif.
Color Palettes for a Clothing Line

MAIN COLOURS Your main

colours should be ones that you
can see yourself wearing a lot.

ACCENT COLOURS Accent

colours should work for
accessories and single items, like
tops or skirts.

NEUTRALS Pick neutral

colours that would suit your
basics, i.e. simple tops,
trousers, cardigans
Color Wheel Yellow-orange, red-orange,
red-purple, blue-purple,
Red, yellow and blue are the 3 blue-green & yellow-green are
pigment colors that cannot be mixed the tertiary colors.
or formed by any combination of
other colors. These are the colors formed by
All other colors are derived from mixing a primary and a
these 3 hues. secondary color. That's why
the hue is a two word name,
such as blue-green, red-violet,
Green, orange and purple. Are and yellow-orange.
the secondary colors.
These are the colors formed by
mixing the primary colors.
Color Palettes for a Clothing Line

In color theory, a tint is a

mixture of a color with white,
which reduces darkness. These
are called as pastels.
A shade is a mixture with black,
which increases darkness.
A tone is produced either by the
mixture of a color with gray.
These are called as muted colors.
Color Harmonies
The split-complementary color scheme
Color harmony delivers visual is a variation of the complementary
interest and a sense of order. color scheme. In addition to the base
Complementary colors are any color, it uses the two colors adjacent to
two colors which are directly its complement.
opposite to each other, such as
red and green and red-purple A triadic color
and yellow-green. scheme uses
colors that are
evenly spaced
around the
color wheel.
Color Palettes for a Clothing Line

In color theory, a tint is a

mixture of a color with white,
which reduces darkness. These
are called as pastels.
A shade is a mixture with black,
which increases darkness.
A tone is produced either by the
mixture of a color with gray.
These are called as muted colors.
Color Palettes for a Clothing Line

Main Colors
Neutrals Colors
Color Palettes for a Clothing Line
Ready-To-Wear Wear
Couture Wear
EXAMPLE 1 - MOTIF, REPEAT PATTERNS & FINAL OUTCOME
EXAMPLE 2 - MOTIF, REPEAT PATTERNS & FINAL OUTCOME
EXAMPLE 3 - MOTIF, REPEAT PATTERNS & FINAL OUTCOME
Embroidery Motif