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Baby Hat Knitting Pattern Guide

This document provides instructions for making baby hats in six sizes from newborn to 3 years old. The hats are knitted in the round using chunky yarn and circular or double pointed needles. They have a seamless finish and optional embellishments including tied ears, pointy ears, pompoms or tassels. Detailed instructions are provided for knitting the hats, joining the tops, and making the optional embellishments. Measurements and schematics are included to help choose the appropriate size.

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hernan Hull
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
759 views11 pages

Baby Hat Knitting Pattern Guide

This document provides instructions for making baby hats in six sizes from newborn to 3 years old. The hats are knitted in the round using chunky yarn and circular or double pointed needles. They have a seamless finish and optional embellishments including tied ears, pointy ears, pompoms or tassels. Detailed instructions are provided for knitting the hats, joining the tops, and making the optional embellishments. Measurements and schematics are included to help choose the appropriate size.

Uploaded by

hernan Hull
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

MADE

WITH LOVE



Simplest is often the best and these cute baby hats are no exception! These little
hats are so popular, look good and they’re so easy to make even if you’re new to
knitting.
They’re knitted in chunky weight yarn on smaller than recommended needles. This
creates a dense fabric with great structure and means they are extra warm. They’re
also knitted in the round, on circular needles using the magic loop method, and are
completely seamless as they’re joined at the top using Kitchener stitch. You can also
knit the hat with dpn’s if that is your preference. The seamless finish gives the hat a
really professional look and although Kitchener stitch has a reputation for being
difficult it’s quite a simple process and a full description is included in the pattern.
The newborn size can be knitted in a single evening.
For added variety there are 4 different finishing styles: tied ears, pointy ears,
pompoms and tassels. Choose your favourite style or make one of each! What makes
your hat extra special is that each one is ‘Made With Love’. The perfect gift for a
special little person in your life.

1

Size
Newborn, 3-6 months, 6-12 months, 12-18 months, 18-24 months, 2-3 years

Measurements
Babies head circumferences vary a lot and the rate of growth over the first 24
months is rapid. The pattern is written in 6 sizes from newborn to 3 years and based
on average baby head circumferences. Please bear that in mind when choosing
which size you make.
baby head baby head
circumference circumference hat height hat height
age cm inches cm inches
newborn 33-35.5 13-14 15 6
3-6 months 38 15 16.5 6.5
6-12 months 40.5-43 16-17 18 7
12-18 months 45.5 18 19 7.5
18-24 months 48 19 20 8
2-3 years 50 20 21.5 8.5



Note: The hat is worn with a few cm negative ease so the actual hat circumference
will be less than the head measurements.

Gauge
Stocking stitch swatch (10cm x 10cm) 16 sts x 22 rows – 5mm needles

Materials
40-75g DK or chunky weight yarn (if using DK weight yarn use 2 strands of yarn)
5mm (US 8) needles (circular needles or double pointed needles (dpn’s))
Small piece of stiff card (Tassel hat)
25mm (1”) pom-pom maker or alternatively a fork (Pompom hat)
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Scissors

2
Pattern Instructions

Cast on 58([Link]) stitches using 5mm circular needles.
Join in the round being careful not to twist your stitches and place a stitch marker to
indicate the end of round.
There are instructions below for 2 versions of the hat. They’re almost identical but
when knitting a hat without ears you will require slightly fewer rounds of knitting. If
you would like your hat to have a contrast brim then the first 5 rounds of knitting are
done with the contrasting yarn before joining the main colour at the beginning of
round 6. If you decide to work with two colours refer to the section ‘Changing colour
while working in the round’ this will help prevent jogging.


Hat with Ears

Knit 40([Link]) rounds or until your work measures 6(6.[Link].[Link].5)
inches, or 15(16.[Link].5) cm.
As there is no rib the first few rounds of knitting form a natural curl. When
measuring the hat do not unfold your work but measure from the bottom of the
stockinette curl (with brim rolled up).

3
Hat with Pompoms or Tassels (Hat without Ears)

Knit 36([Link]) rounds or until your work measures 5.5(6:6.[Link].5:8) inches
or 14(15.[Link].5) cm.
As there is no rib the first few rounds of knitting form a natural curl. When
measuring the hat do not unfold your work but measure from the bottom of the
stockinette curl (with brim rolled up).


Finishing Join (all)

Follow the section below ‘Kitchener Stitch or Grafting’ where there are detailed
written instructions and also the link to an online demonstration. An alternative
method for joining the top of the hat would be to work a three needle bind off with
right sides of work facing.

All that’s left to do now is add the finishing touches. I hope you enjoyed making your
hat and will use the pattern again and again as I have done. I love how quick and
easy it is and how many different variations there are. As always I look forward to
seeing your interpretations and adaptations.

Happy knitting!



4
The Finishing Touches

Style 1 – Hat with Pointy Ears



A pointy or kitten ear look will become defined by
simply putting on the hat.

To sew down the ears, making them a little more
defined, cut 2 lengths of yarn approximately 8” (20
cm). The yarn is secured with a few hidden stitches
along a diagonal line approximately 2-3” (5-7.5 cm)
from the corner.


Repeat for second ear.
Pointy Ears




Style 2 – Hat with Tied Ears



Cut two pieces of yarn about 8’ (20cm) in length.

Secure the yarn by tying tightly around one of the
corners approximately 2-3” (5-7.5 cm) from the top
and corresponding side. Any excess yarn can be
hidden away by threading it through the centre of the
ear before cutting the end.

Repeat for second ear.

Tied Ears


5
Style 3 – Hat with Pompoms

If you have a small pompom maker (size 1” (25mm)) make two pompoms in the
colour(s) of your choice.

If you do not have a pompom maker then a standard dining fork will do just fine.
See the instructions below ‘How to make a mini pompom using a fork’.

When complete sew the finished pompoms to the corners of your hat.

6
Style 4 – Hat with Tassels

Tassels look equally good attached to the corners of the hat and can be made in the
same or contrasting colours. All that is required besides your yarn and a pair of
scissors is a stiff piece of card.
See the section below ‘How to make a tassel’.

7
How to make a mini pompom using a fork



Take your yarn and fork and wrap the yarn around
the centre of the outer two prongs. When it looks
nice and plump cut the end of the yarn.




Cut a smaller piece of yarn and thread it through the
centre prongs of the fork tying it tightly around all
the strands of yarn.




Make sure it is really secure with a couple of tight
knots before removing your wool off the fork and
cutting through all the loops.




Trim all the ends and shape into a round.

Voila a mini pompom!

8
How to make a tassel

Cut a piece of stiff card about 7-8cm (2.5-3”).
Lay a 20cm (8”) piece of yarn horizontally on
the centre of the card.
Wrap yarn around the card and over the
horizontal thread 30 times.

Securely tie the length of yarn around the


centre of the tassel.

Remove the yarn from the card.


Leave the yarn attached to the top of the
tassel.

Wrap another piece of yarn a few times around


the tassel and tie tightly.
Slide scissors through the bottom and cut
through the all the loops.

Trim the ends of the yarn with scissors

Thread a tapestry needle with the attached


thread.
Sew the tassel to the corner of your hat.
Weave in end on the inside of the hat.

9
Kitchener Stitch or Grafting

1 After working your final round remove the end of round marker and split your
stitches equally over both needles.
2 Your working yarn should be positioned on the first stitch of the back needle.
3 Hold your needles parallel with tips pointing right.
4 Leave your working yarn attached to the last stitch worked, cut the yarn leaving a
length approximately 4 times the width of the stitches on the needle.
5 Thread the end of your yarn onto a tapestry needle in preparation for grafting.

Note:
Throughout the grafting process your yarn should remain under the tips of your
needles.



Kitchener Set Up
1 - Insert the tapestry needle, as if to purl, into the first stitch on your front needle.
Pull your thread through the stitch and leave the stitch on your needle.
2 – Insert the tapestry needle, as if to knit, into the first stitch on your back needle.
Pull your thread through the stitch and leave the stitch on your needle.








10
Kitchener Working
1 – Insert the tapestry needle, as if to knit, into the first stitch on your front needle
and slip the stitch off the tip off your needle. Then insert the tapestry needle, as if to
purl into the next stich on the front needle. Pull your thread through the stitch and
leave the stitch on your needle.
2 – Insert the tapestry needle, as if to purl, into the first stitch on your back needle
and slip the stitch off the tip of your needle. Then insert the tapestry needle, as if to
knit, into the next stitch on the back needle. Pull your thread through the stitch and
leave the stitch on your needle.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 until only one stitch remains on each of the needles. Lightly
tighten your thread as you work along the row.

Kitchener Finishing
1 - Insert the tapestry needle, as if to knit, into the remaining stitch on your front
needle and slip the stitch off the tip off your needle.
2 - Insert the tapestry needle, as if to purl, into the remaining stitch on your back
needle and slip the stitch off the tip of your needle.
3 - Thread your needle through to the wrong side of your work and weave in the
end.

To watch my online video please cut and paste this link -
[Link]

Changing colour while working in the round

When changing colour in the round, ‘jogs’ or visual jolts can be a problem. A jog in
your stripes is created because knitting in the round does not stack row upon row
because you are effectively knitting in a spiral. Your last stitch of the round will not
meet up with the first stitch in the round, but will be positioned slightly above it.
Fortunately there is an easy technique to disguise the flaw and create an almost
flawless join.


1. Slip the end of round marker, cut the working yarn leaving a
6-8” tail that can be weaved in later.
2. Knit one round in the contrasting yarn
3. Slip the first stitch of the second round, then complete the
round.
4. Knit every following round as usual (knitting all stitches).




If you decide to change the colour again simply repeat steps 1-4.

For comments or questions regarding this pattern please contact me at julietootill@[Link]
You can also find me on Ravelry as knittedandco

11

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