GI Journal No.

140 1 August 31, 2020

 GOVERNMENT OF INDIA
GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS
JOURNAL NO. 140

August 31, 2020 / BHADRA 09, SAKA 1942

GI Journal No. 140 2 August 31, 2020

 INDEX

S. No. Particulars Page No.

1 Official Notices 4

2 New G.I Application Details 5

3 Public Notice 6

4 GI Applications
Rataul Mango - GI Application No. 206 8
Tamenglong Orange - GI Application No. 590 19
Chamba Chappal - GI Application No. 614 27
Dalle Khursani - GI Application No. 636 36
Mau Saree - GI Application No. 645 43
Lahauli Knitted Socks & Gloves - GI Application No. 647 51
Kanniyakumari Cloves - GI Application No. 675 61

5 General Information 71

6 Registration Process 73

GI Journal No. 140 3 August 31, 2020

 OFFICIAL NOTICES
Sub: Notice is given under Rule 41(1) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration &
Protection) Rules, 2002.

1. As per the requirement of Rule 41(1) it is informed that the issue of Journal 140 of the
Geographical Indications Journal dated 31st August, 2020 / Bhadra 09, Saka 1942 has
been made available to the public from 31st August, 2020.

GI Journal No. 140 4 August 31, 2020

 NEW G.I APPLICATION DETAILS

App.No. Geographical Indications Class Goods

665 Bakhira Metal Product 21 Handicraft

666 Banda Shazar Patthar Craft 14 Handicraft

667 Nagina Wood Craft of Uttar Pradesh 20 Handicraft

668 Pratapgarh Aonla 31 Agricultural

669 Nagri Dubraj 30 Agricultural

670 Amroha Dholak 15 Handicraft

671 Mahoba Gaura Patthar 14 Handicraft

672 Hathras Hing 30 Food Stuff

673 Mainpuri Tarkashi 20 Handicraft

674 Sambhal Horn Craft 20 Handicraft

675 Kanyakumari Cloves 30 Agricultural

676 Bengal Muslin 24 & 25 Textiles

677 Patchwork of Rampur 24, 25 & 26 Textiles

678 Bareilly Terracott 21 Handicraft

680 Myndoli Banana 31 Agricultural

681 Morena Gajak 30 Food Stuff

682 Assamese Gamocha 24 & 25 Textiles

683 Osmanabadi Goat 31 Agricultural

684 Spiti Chharma (Seabuckthorn) 31 Agricultural

685 Alibag White Onion 31 Agricultural

686 Attappady Aattukombu Avara 31 Agricultural

687 Attappady Thuvara 31 Agricultural

688 Bhandara Chinnor Rice 31 Agricultural

GI Journal No. 140 5 August 31, 2020

 689 Chilean Pisco 33 Manufactured

690 Gajapati Date Palm Jaggery 30 Agricultural

691 Udangudi Panangkarupatti 30 Agricultural

692 Vadodara no Lilo Chevdo 30 Food Stuff

693 Wada Kolam 31 Agricultural

694 Mata ni Pachedi 24 Textiles

695 Wada Kolam 31 Agricultural

696 Bihar Makhana 31 Agricultural

Wrought Iron Crafts of Dindori
697 6 & 21 Handicraft
(Madhya Pradesh)
698 Jaderi Namakatti 20 Handicraft

GI Journal No. 140 6 August 31, 2020

 PUBLIC NOTICE

No.GIR/CG/JNL/2010 Dated 26th February, 2010

WHEREAS Rule 38(2) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Rules,
2002 provides as follows:

“The Registrar may after notification in the Journal put the published Geographical
Indications Journal on the internet, website or any other electronic media.”

Now therefore, with effect from 1st April, 2010, The Geographical Indications Journal will be
Published and hosted in the IPO official website www.ipindia.nic.in free of charge. Accordingly, sale
o f Hard Copy and CD-ROM of GI Journal will be discontinued with effect from 1st April, 2010.

Registrar of Geographical Indications

GI Journal No. 140 7 August 31, 2020

Advertised under Rule 41 (1) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Rules, 2002 in
the Geographical Indications Journal 140 dated August 31, 2020

G.I. APPLICATION NUMBER – 206

Application Date: 05-04-2010

Application is made by Rataul Mango Producers Association at C/o Umar Faridi, Village & Post Office, Rataul,
District- Baghpat – 250 101, Uttar Pradesh, India for Registration in Part A of the Register of Rataul Mango
under Application No. 206 in respect of Mango falling in Class – 31 is hereby advertised as accepted under
Sub-section (1) of Section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

A) Name of the Applicant : Rataul Mango Producers Association,

B) Address : Rataul Mango Producers Association,

C/o Umar Faridi, Village & Post Office
Rataul, District- Baghpat, Uttar Pradesh –
250 101

Facilitated By:
ICAR-Central Institute for Subtropical
Horticulture, Rehmankhera, P.O. Kakori,
Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh – 226 101

C) Name of the Geographical Indication : Rataul mango

D) Types of Good : Class 31 – Mango

E) Specification:

Rataul mango is medium size fruit with pleasant aroma and excellent taste i.e. very
sweet and extremely delicious. Rataul mangoes are of medium size averaging around
140-220 gram. Keeping quality is good, firmness medium, fibreless with excellent
medium orange in colour and sweet-very sweet taste. Rataul mangoes fruits are ovate-
oblong with rounded base and no beak. Its extraordinary pleasant aroma differentiates
this variety from any other variety.

GI Journal No. 140 8 August 31, 2020

 Rataul Mango is gown in in Rataul, Shekhpuri, Vinaypur, Mubarikpur ,Tigri and
Lahchoda of Tehsil Khekra, District Baghpat, Uttar Pradesh covering approximately 85
hectare land with over 10,000 trees.

Morphological description of Rataul Mango:

Tree
The tree of Rataul mango is medium in size and its trunk is erect. Its crown is irregular/
spreading with a diameter of 10 m on an average. Generally, all trees exhibit spreading
type of growth habit. Fruit bearing is generally light and biennial.
Emerging leaves are light green with a brownish tinge. Growing leaves are purplish
brown in colour. The mature leaves are dark green in colour. Leaves are oval-
lanceolate, folded, and slightly wavy. Leaf apex is attenuate to acuminate.
Inflorescence is pyramidal, yellowish green throughout and without hair.

Morphological and quantitative characters of Rataul Mango

S. No. Characters Description

1. Young leaf: Intensity of anthocyanin Weak
coloration
2. Leaf Blade: Length Long (22.0 cm – 32 cm)
3. Leaf Blade: Width Medium (3.0 cm – 6.0 cm)
4. Leaf Blade: Shape Ovate
5. Leaf Blade: Colour Dark Green (RHS141A & 141B)
6. Leaf blade: twisting Absent
7. Leaf blade: shape of base Acute
8. Leaf blade: shape of apex Attenuate to Acuminate
9. Petiole: length Medium (1.5-3.0 cm)
10. Time of flowering Medium
11. Inflorescence: length Short (< 20.0 cm) to
Medium (20.0 cm – 30.0 cm)
12. Inflorescence: diameter Medium (7.5-15 cm)
13. Inflorescence: anthocyanin Absent
colouration of axis and branches
14. Mature fruit: length Medium (5.0 – 10.0 cm)
15. Mature fruit: width Medium (5.0 – 7.0 cm)
16. Mature fruit: shape in cross section Circular
17. Mature fruit: color of skin Green (RHS140B)
18. Mature fruit: density of lenticels Medium
19. Mature fruit: roughness of surface Absent
(corkiness) caused by lenticels
20. Mature fruit: presence of cavity at Present
stalk
GI Journal No. 140 9 August 31, 2020
 21. Mature fruit: depth of cavity at stalk Shallow
22. Mature fruit: presence of neck Absent
23. Mature fruit: shape of ventral shoulder Rounded upward
24. Mature fruit: presence of groove in Absent
ventral shoulder
25. Mature fruit: bulging on ventral Absent
shoulder
26. Mature fruit: presence of sinus Absent
27. Mature fruit: depth of sinus Absent
28. Mature fruit: bulging proximal of stylar Absent
scar
29. Maturity: Fruit ready to harvest Medium
30. Ripe fruit: predominat color of skin Greenish yellow
(RHSN144B, RHSN144C)
31. Ripe fruit: main color of pulp Medium orange (RHS22A)
32. Stone: kernel in lateral view Reniform
33. Stone: embryony Monoembryonic

Mature/Ripe Fruit Morphology

Ripened fruit is small and oval in shape. Its ventral shoulder is prominent and sloping;
ventral side is higher than the dorsal; beak is not prominent and obtuse and may even
be absent. Sinus is slightly marked or absent. Fruit skin is medium and greenish yellow
in colour, flesh firmness medium, fiber is scanty near the skin.

Fruit quality is excellent with luscious and delightful flavor and very pleasing and
distinctive smell similar to carrot. Flavor leaves an excellent taste in mouth. Keeping
quality (shelf life) of ripened fruit is approximately 6-8 days.

Stone is oblong and sparse. Fine and short fiber can be found all over the surface.
Long tuft of fiber on the ventral shoulder only. Stone relief of surface is ridged, kernel is
reniform in shape and monoembryonic.

The yield of the tree varies with climate of the specific year, age of the tree and
different agricultural practices. A well grown tree of ten years of age yields 1.5- 4
quintals per season. Old trees of more than 50 years give approximately 1-3 quintals
per season.

Biochemical characters of Rataul mango

S.N. Character Range
1 Reducing sugar 3.5-4.0 %
2 Total sugars 14.0-16.0 %
GI Journal No. 140 10 August 31, 2020
 3 TSS (Total soluble solids) 18-22o Brix
4 Total acidity 0.24-0.36 %
5 Aroma Intermediate, pleasing

F) Description:

Rataul mango, valued by mango enthusiasts throughout the nation. The mango king (a
title given by the then Prime Minister Pt. Jawaharlal Nehru), Sheikh Mohammad Afaq
Faridi, fetched Rataul its recognition by developing the Rataul mango, a tiny pendant of
tender yellow-orange fruit that came, native knowledge has it, from that first mango tree
in the village. “India’s gift to the world, this delicious summer fruit is much more than
something good to eat” states an article by Mohan Sivanand on the mangoes of Rataul
in the Reader’s Digest (April, 1997).

Rataul village in the Baghpat district of Western Uttar Pradesh is one great example of
culturally rich rural landscape. Mango orchards, local water bodies, farmlands and
open congregation spaces define the major part of the landscape of this village which
has evolved over a period of time.

The district forms a part of Yamuna-Hindon doab in Yamuna sub-basin of Indo-

Gangetic plain. It occupies part of inter fluvial belt of Ganga-Yamuna in the extreme
western part of the state. Rataul is a bigger rural unit of self-contained community living
in small housing and huts etc.

Rataul mangoes are of medium size averaging around 140-220 gram. Rataul variety of
mango is grown well in clay, sandy and loam soil with pH value ranged from 5.5-7.5 in
well-drained soil. Stony waterlogged and alkaline soil conditions checks its growth and
it does not perform well beyond 7.5 pH. However, the plant can withstand in slightly
alkaline soil and water logging conditions. There should not be high humidity rain or
frost during flowering of Rataul variety. Temperature ranged from 24o C to 35o C, 50 –
60 ft water level is suitable for Rataul mango and 75-286 cm rainfall is well suitable for
Rataul mango. Higher temperature during fruit development and maturity gives better
quality fruits of Rataul mango. In frequent rainfall and high humidity, Rataul mango is
prone to many pests and diseases. However, hot air in the month of May adversely
affect the Rataul mango which causes fruit drops but overall fruit drop is considered to
be less in comparison of other varieties grown in Rataul village i.e. Dashehari, Langra,
Chausa etc.

Water requirements of Rataul mango are generally based on climate, soil and age of
the plant. Young plants of Rataul mango grow well in weekly irrigation during the month
of April to July before the onset of monsoon. It is concluded that the young plants of
Rataul mango upto 2 years old should be watered regularly. The newly planted graft of
GI Journal No. 140 11 August 31, 2020
 Rataul variety approximately needs 25-30 liters water per week. In case of adult plants,
five irrigations during October-February at monthly intervals are sufficient for proper
growth and fruit development. No irrigation should be given from February onwards to
postpone a harvest in the rainy season.

G) Geographical area of Production and Maps shown below: 18

Latitude – 280 50'00.8'' N

Longitude – 770 20'30.2'' E
The area is in Rataul, Shekhpuri, Vinaypur, Mubarikpur ,Tigri and Lahchoda of Tehsil
Khekra, District Baghpat, U.P. covering approximately 85 hectare land with over 10,000
trees in Baghpat District.

H) Proof of Origin (Historical records):

Rataul, a village situated in the Khekra Tehsil of Baghpat. Here most of the land in that
time was acquired by Mr. Abdur Razzaq, Mr. Kareem-uddin, Ch. Kuvar Hussain and
Kallu with their orchard’s name as “4 Takhta”, “Deputy Sahib Wala Bagh”, “Nehar Ke
Pul Wala Bagh” and “Kallu Wala Bagh”, respectively. In their times mangoes were
cultivated using traditional practices i.e. Tukhmi\ Ungrafted (through seeds). In about
1874 in village Rataul some grafted plants of Bambai variety were planted, which were
collected from "DAULA" Village in Baghpat District. They were brought in by an
Engineer of Eastern Yamuna canal project, Mr. Barden from Maharashtra. In about
1880, Mr. Abdur Razzaq son of Sheikh Inayat Ali established 1.5 ha of mango orchards
in Rataul village. Mr. Hakimuddin, a government official collected various varieties of
mangoes. Thus village Rataul becomes famous for its mangoes.

One of the famous varieties of mangoes i.e. "Rataul" was developed in Rataul village
by Sheikh Mohammed Afaq Faridi (Grandson of Mr. Abdur Razzaq). Mr. Afaq was so
passionate with mangoes that he had already tasted a good number of varieties of
mangoes and he was able to tell the variety just by chewing the leaves of mango tree,
by tasting it or even by smelling it. Sheikh Mohammad Afaq Faridi devoted his life for
the development of mangoes. He established a nursery SHOHRA-E-AFAQ NURSURY
on 7th May 1928 and got it registered on 4th November 1935 in which he had 461
varieties of mangoes and he grew many orchards of different varieties; this was his first
attempt towards having all kind of varieties of mangoes.

The discovery of ‘Rataul’ mango was an interesting event. Mr. Afaq Faridi was passing
by a farm, where he saw a baby plant of mango of about 5 years, and as per his habit
he crushed and smelled the leaf. To his amusement there was a smell of carrot flower.
He plucked a ripe mango off the tree and tasted it, the flavor was amazing and also the
GI Journal No. 140 12 August 31, 2020
 smell of the mango was very pleasing. Mr. Faridi then prepared the grafts on the tree
himself. In 1917, 4 plants of grafted “Rataul” mango variety were planted and thereafter
30-40 plants were planted in the next year by him.

In 1935, Nawab of Chhatari, Mr. Ahmed Sayeed Khan, first governor of U.P.,
representing India showcased Rataul in an exhibition held at London where it (Rataul
variety) received First prize and appreciation. Shohra -e- Afaq nursery sent its varieties
to all over India and became famous.

Rataul mango has become the choice of not only the common man but from time to
time various dignitaries appreciated its taste. To name a few Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru
(First Prime minister of India), Mrs. Uma Kant Dixit, Lala Deshbandhu Gupta, Mr. Gyani
Jail Singh, Mrs Indira Gandhi, General Zia-ul- haq, Mr. Atal Bihaari Vajpayee, Ch.
Charan Singh, Mr. Chandra Shekhar, Mrs Shiela Dixit.

Rataul mango has always been appreciated by the media as well. It has always made
its presence felt in the media every year during the mango season because of its
sweetness and peculiar aroma. Many stories have covered by electronic and print
media from time to time. A special documentary was filmed on Mr. Afaq Faridi by Film
Division. Many books and other articles have been published so as to describe the
speciality of Rataul mango and the contribution of Mr. Faridi in developing different
varieties of mangoes especially Rataul.

Catalogue (1941-42), SHORA-I-AFAQ Nursery defines Rataul mango as “the best

mango known as yet, very sweet, most extremely delicious, scent extraordinarily
sweet, yields in plenty, precious and nice mango, best money maker. Our specialty
excellence confirmed in England”.

I) Method of Production:

Topography and soil parameters

Village Rataul is situated in district Baghpat, Uttar Pradesh which forms a part of
Yamuna-Hindon doab in Yamuna sub-basin of Indo-Gangetic plain. It occupies part of
inter fluvial belt of Ganga-Yamuna in the extreme western part of the state.

The deposits in Baghpat region are flood plain deposits which belong to quaternary
period. Baghpat has dense fluvial sediments deposited by the river Yamuna and
Hindon beneath the surface with right bank tributaries. The sediments are admixture of
clay and sand of different grades.

Soil
The Indo-Gangetic Plains are formed by the periodic deposition of silt brought by rivers
GI Journal No. 140 13 August 31, 2020
 abound in alluvial soil. The alluvial tracks of Ganga-Yamuna interfluve have very fertile
soil. The study area is characterized broadly by two types of soils, loam and sandy
loam (Survey of India, 2003). The area is also marked by the development of ravines
and bad land topography at places, particularly along the banks of rivers Yamuna,
Hindon and Krishni. The ravenous soils are generally rich in aluminum (Al) and iron
(Fe) contents.
Bed rock has not been encountered in deep exploratory wells drilled to depth of 650 m.
Geologically, the area is categorized by a heavy pile of about 1000 m of quaternary
alluvium. This area is one of the most fertile lands due to presence of deep continuous
water bearing strata. This allows the roots of plants to absorb water easily and also
makes it easy to bore wells for irrigation of fields and orchards.

Climate and rainfall

The area experiences moderate to tropical climate. The average annual rainfall is
585.3 mm. The climate is sub-humid and it is characterized by dryness of the air with
an intensely hot summer and a cold winter. About 90% of rainfall takes place from June
to September. During monsoon surplus water is available for deep percolation to
ground water.

Common agricultural practices followed for cultivation of Rataul mango.

 The following seasons are regarded as most suitable for plantation:
o From the 20th February, to 10th April.
o From the commencement of the monsoon to 31st August.
 The distance between the plants must be 36 ft.
 Sandy or clay soil is suitable for plantation. Following types of land/soil are unfit for
Rataul mango Plantation: Gravelly land or “shore-area” or which contains
nitrogenous substance in excess, where the rain-water and water goes from the
old polluted area, or which draws rain-water.
 The young plants must remain covered from 1st December to 20th February for
protection from frost, and before this date they must not be uncovered, however
favorable or altered as the season may seem. The plants should not remain
covered after 1st March till the time the plants are grown into full trees. Their stem
near the ground must be covered with straw.
 The mango-plants are not to be provided with Organic Manure.
 The necessary ditches. (One yard deep) for plantation must be dug and filled up
with the upper soil of the field. Then the field must be fully watered so that the level
of the soil of the ditches may sink down to its proper limits. The trees must be
planted after the soil of the ditches is dried up.
 After every watering, the ground must be scratched and turned over with the
mattock (khurpa). If, after turning over the ground is lightly hit upon with the
mattock,.

GI Journal No. 140 14 August 31, 2020

  During the rainy season, when white ants become a nuisance to the plant, care
must be taken for the removal from the stem.
 Care must be taken that during the hot season, water should not remain for long in
the thawla, as watering getting hot dries up the plant.
 During the summer season, the plant should not be watered at noon.
 Excess of water is injurious. The mango-tree does not require water in great
excess. So long as the soil is moist, watering is not necessary.
 In the orchard, heavy feeder (sugarcane, sorghum, chari etc) or which grows taller
than the mango grafts should not be grown. Crops requiting excessive water
should be avoided. Peas, moong and small rooted legumes are the finest crop for
the mango-orchard; it helps in the growth of the plants and improves fertility.
 Banana trees must not be planted near Rataul mango Orchards/ trees as it is
injurious.
 Orange, lemon or peach etc, should not be planted in the mango-orchard as their
roots reach out towards the mango-plant and hinder in their growth
 Shady/ big trees like Jamun, Sheesham etc which block wind or sun must not be
planted around Mango trees.
 Weeds in the orchard should be well managed.
Season
Rataul mango starts flowering during early March and fruits matures during early to
mid-July.

Plant protection
Like other mango varieties Rataul mango also suffers a colossal loss due to number of
insect-pest and diseases. Most of the common mango pests attack Rataul mango also.
It is majorly attacked by pests like mango hopper, mealy bug, shoot gall psylla, and
fruits fly etc.

Grading
Grading is mainly based on the size, colour and maturity of the fruits. While grading,
smaller fruits are separated from the larger ones in order to maintain quality standards.
Immature, overripe, damaged and diseased fruits are discarded in the process of
grading.

Packing
Wooden or cardboard (CFB) boxes, rectangular in shape having capacity to
accommodate 5 to 8 kg of fruits are used for packaging and transportation of mango
fruits. The most commonly used containers are ventilated cardboard boxes cartons.
Size of the box varies to accommodate 5 to 6 kg.
Marketing and Production
Owing to its unique flavor and fragrance, Rataul mango is most sought after variety
during the mango season. Currently marketing is done only through word of mouth and
GI Journal No. 140 15 August 31, 2020
 Rataul mango price ranges from Rs. 50/- per kg to Rs.100 /- kg on an average.

J) Uniqueness:

Rataul mango is medium sized fruit with pleasant aroma and excellent taste i.e. very
sweet and extremely delicious. Rataul is medium season variety and the colour of the
ripe fruit is greenish yellow. The ventral shoulder is rounded upward and there is no
surface roughness due to lenticels. Skin is moderately thin and greenish yellow in
colour, medium flesh firmness, fiber is scanty near the skin. The pulp colour is
attractive medium orange with a TSS ranging from 18-22 oBrix. The shelf life of Rataul
mango is around 6-8 days at room temperature and it is suitable for table purpose and
it also possesses excellent export quality.

Rataul mangoes are of medium size averaging around 140-220 gram. The fruits are
ovate-oblong with rounded base and no beak. Its extraordinary pleasant aroma
differentiates the variety from any other.

Fruit Drop: Hot air in the month of May adversely affect the Rataul mango which
causes fruit drops but overall fruit drop is considered to be less in comparison of other
varieties grown in Rataul village i.e. Dashehari, Langra, Chausa etc.

K) Inspection Body:

Inspection body will be constituted with the following members

1. Director, Central Institute for Subtropical Horticulture, Rehmankhera, Chairperson

P.O. Kakori, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh 226 101
2. Secretary, Rataul Mango Producers Association, Village & Post office Member
Rataul, Distt. Baghpat Uttar Pradesh 250 101
3. District Horticulture Officer, Baghpat Member
4. Plant Protection Officer, Baghpat Member
5. Traditional Farmers from Rataul Area Member
6. Farmer from Shekpuri village Member
7. Farmer from Mubarakpur village Member
8. Farmer from Tigri village Member
9. Farmer from Vinaypur village Member

L) Others:

About the Applicant:

GI Journal No. 140 16 August 31, 2020
 Rataul Mango Producers’ Association is majorly working towards following interests:
 To conserve the Rataul mango variety of Geographical Area.
 To increase the production, productivity & area.
 To increase the income of Rataul mango producers and to fetch better price.
 To produce quality Rataul mango for export and domestic market.
Rataul, buried amid the wheat and sugar cane meadows of northern Uttar Pradesh,
about 35 kilometers northeast of New Delhi, is home to about 18,000 people.
Everywhere in the village, alongside alleyways, rich meadows are mango trees, with
their twigs dripping with the weighty green pendants of maturing fruit and you can find
old males here and there with small hammers style wooden crates that will embrace
Rataul's yield, the celebrated Rataul mango, valued by mango enthusiasts throughout
the nation.

“India’s gift to the world, this delicious summer fruit is much more than something good
to eat” states an article by Mohan Sivanand on the mangoes of Rataul in the Reader’s
Digest (April, 1997). The mango king (a title given by the then Prime Minister Pt.
Jawaharlal Nehru), Sheikh Mohammad Afaq Faridi, fetched Rataul its recognition by
developing the Rataul mango, a tiny pendant of tender yellow-orange fruit that came,
native knowledge has it, from that first mango tree in the village.

Rataul village in the Baghpat district of Western Uttar Pradesh is one great example of
culturally rich rural landscape. Mango orchards, local water bodies, farmlands and
open congregation spaces define the major part of the landscape of this village which
has evolved over a period of time.

The district forms a part of Yamuna-Hindon doab in Yamuna sub-basin of Indo-

Gangetic plain. It occupies part of interfluvial belt of Ganga-Yamuna in the extreme
western part of the state. Rataul is a bigger rural unit of self-contained community living
in small housing and huts etc.

GI Journal No. 140 17 August 31, 2020

GI Journal No. 140 18 August 31, 2020
 Advertised under Rule 41 (1) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Rules,
2002 in the Geographical Indications Journal 140 dated August 31, 2020

G.I. APPLICATION NUMBER – 590

Application Date: 18-09-2017

Application is made by Manipur Organic Mission Agency (MOMA) at Directorate of Horticulture,

Sanjenthong, Imphal – 795 001, Manipur, India for Registration in Part A of the Register of Tamenglong
Orange under Application No. 590 in respect of Orange falling in Class – 31 is hereby advertised as
accepted under Sub-section (1) of Section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and
Protection) Act, 1999.

A) Name of the Applicant : Manipur Organic Mission Agency (MOMA)

B) Address : Manipur Organic Mission Agency (MOMA),

Directorate of Horticulture,
Sanjenthong, Imphal – 795 001,
Manipur, India.

C) Name of the Geographical Indication :

TAMENGLONG ORANGE

D) Types of Good : Class 31 - Orange

E) Specification:

Tamenglong Orange (Citrus reticulata), a species of mandarin group is unique fruit crop found
only in the Tamenglong district of the state of Manipur. It is famous especially for its well blended
sweetness and acidity taste. Usually each fruit contains 10-14 segments. The segments of the
fruit are easily separable and the core is open at maturity. The fruits are loose skinned, smooth
surface and orange in colour. The rind is thin and seeds are pointed with light green cotyledons.
Tamenglong is not only the largest producer of oranges in Manipur, contributing over 50 percent
of the state’s annual production of nearly 10,000 to 11,000 metric tonnes, but is also believed that
oranges found in Tamenglong are one of the best qualities in the world.

Physio-chemical properties of Tamenglong Orange:

Parameter Average value

Plant height 7.9 m
Fruit size 6.99 cm x 8.07 cm
Fruit weight 232.76 g
Fruit /plant 120.46 No.
Fruit yield/plant 25.83 kg

GI Journal No. 140 19 August 31, 2020

 Juice content 45.75%
Acidity 0.63%
TSS 11.93 (0Brix)
TSS: Acidity ratio 18.28
Ascorbic acid 48.12 mg/100ml

Nutritional Value per 100g

Energy 53 kcal
Protein 0.81 g
Total lipid(fat) 0.31 g
Carbohydrate 13.34 g
Total dietary fibre 1.8 g
Total Sugars 10.58 g

Minerals
Calcium 37 mg
Iron 0.15 mg
Magnesium 12 mg
Phosphorus 20 mg
Potassium 166 mg
Sodium 2 mg
Zinc 0.07 mg

Vitamins
Vitamin C 26.7 mg
Thiamin 0.058 mg
Riboglavin 0.036 mg
Niacin 0.0376 mg
Vitamin(B 6 ) 0.078 mg
Folate 16 ug
Vitamin A 682 IU
Vitamin E 0.20 mg

Some other properties are:

• Rind thickness : 1.67 to 3.52 mm
• Number of locules per fruit : 10 to 14
• No of seeds per fruit : 7 to 22
• Total Sugar : 2.07 to 4.65%
• Reducing sugar : 1.93 to 3.85%
• Non Reducing Sugar : 0.07 to 0.82%

F) Description:

Tamenglong orange / Mandarin (Citrus reticulata) is unique crop found only in the Tamenglong
district of the state of Manipur. The plant is perennial evergreen of the Rutaceae family and
subtropical in distribution.

Tamenglong orange is rich in vitamin A, B, C and phosphorus. It is consumed fresh or in the form
of juice, jam, squash and syrup.

GI Journal No. 140 20 August 31, 2020

 Class : Magnoliopsida
Order : Sapindales
Family : Rutaceae
Genus : Citrus
Species : reticulata
Scientific name : Citrus reticulata Blanco

Mandarin is very important fruit crop. It is usually consumed in raw form or in fruit salads as well
as juice. The fruit consists of three layers:

(i) The outer yellow/orange peel is with oil glands which exude the essential oils, producing the
typical orange odour.
(ii) The whitish thread like mesocarp.
(iii) The endocarp consisting of 10-14 segments filled with juice sacs (vesicles).

Mandarin is a citrus fruit of the species Citrus reticulata. It is distinguished from other citrus
species by the relatively loose skin of the fruits, the relative ease with which the segments can be
separated, and (in most cultivars) the green cotyledons.

Mostly, the Mandarin tree is more erect than other kinds of citrus trees and many exhibits a
drooping habit because of rather long, willowy branches. The wood is somewhat more brittle than
other citrus and branch breakage is common under heavy fruit bearing unless some support is
provided. Most varieties of Mandarin are self-pollinated, but some of the hybrids are self-
incompatible and will produce few fruit in the absence of suitable varieties for cross pollination.
Mandarin tends to alternate bearing, with a heavy crop in one year followed by a lighter crop in the
next season.

Citrus fruits trees are small size and evergreen trees that are grown in tropical and subtropical
climates. Generally, citrus trees start bearing fruits 3 - 5 years from planting (although economic
yields start from the fifth year and the trees may take 8 to 10 years to achieve full productivity) and
can be harvested 5 - 6 months from flowering depending on the variety and the environment. Only
a small percentage of flowers produce fruits. Citrus trees require a rich, well-drained soil. Citrus
growing needs periodical fertilization and irrigation of the soil, as well as pruning of the tree.

Unlike some other fruits, citrus fruits do not ripen further once they have been removed from the
tree, so it is important that they are picked at the right stage of maturity. Maturity is measured
depending on different characteristics such as colour, juice content, level of soluble solid (sugar)
and solids to acid ratio. Normally, citrus fruits are harvested by hand. Fruit is best harvested after
8:00 in the morning, when dew has dried up, since otherwise, if the fruit was still wet, it would
become dark and get spoiled. In addition, as citrus fruits are cold-sensitive (the plant dies at 3-50
C below 0oC); growers must have special care to protect the trees against cold. Strategies to
protect from cold may include the selection of the proper citrus tree variety and rootstock for the
location, selection of the proper planting site and allowing the tree to acclimate to the cold.
Protection from frost methods includes also the use of wind machines and the application of
water. The general way to pick the fruit is by pulling it from the stem, using gloves in order to avoid
damaging the fruit. Once harvested, the fruit has to be graded, sorted, washed and waxed, before
being packed for delivery to the fresh market.

G) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no: 26

GI Journal No. 140 21 August 31, 2020

 The district of Tamenglong, is located on the west of Manipur at an altitude of 1,290 m above the
sea level and covers a total area of 4,391 sq.km. It lies between 24°30’N and 25°27’N latitudes
and of 93°10’E and 94°54’E longitudes. The district is bounded by Nagaland in the North,
Churachandpur district in the South, Senapati district in the East and in the West by the state of
Assam.

H) Proof of Origin (Historical records):

The North Eastern region of India ranging from 21057’N to 29 028 ‘N and from 89 040’ E to 970 25’
E is considered as one of the natural home of Citrus. A vast citrus diversity exists in the North
eastern region in wild, semi wild form and is found either in homestead or in forest. The North
Eastern Himalayan Region is the natural home of many citrus species like Citrus indica,
C.assamensis, C.latipes, C.macroptera, C.reticulata.

Orange is one of the important horticultural crops of Manipur. Manipur is considered to be one of
the potential state for citrus genetic diversity since it is adjoining to Myanmar where maximum
citrus diversity has been reported. In Manipur ,mandarin, different strains of rough lemon and
semi-wild Heiribob (Citrus macroptera) are grown. Mandarin orange is grown in different parts of
Manipur ,but the main centre of orange production is Tamenglong district of Manipur which
produces more than 80 % of the total orange production of the state. The soil and the climate of
Tamenglong hill district which is situated at an elevation of 1,260 m above sea level is favourable
for orange growing and almost 40 % of the total land mass is under orange cultivation.

Manipur's Tamenglong District, which is known as the "Orange Bowl" of the state, hosts an annual
festival to demonstrate the variety of oranges it produces. The state-level Orange Festival is held
annually to promote tourism and provide an opportunity to orange farmers to display their produce
before potential buyers besides offering an opportunity for both the growers and fruit processing
industries to clinch deals with orange farmers based on various aspects. The Orange Festival was
first celebrated in 2001 on a modest scale by Manipur Small Farmers’ Agri-Business Consortium
under the kind aegis of Central SFAC and DRAD Tamenglong. The festival witnessed great
popularity and started to be celebrated every year with the support of the Government Department
as a state festival since 2005. It is making a very positive impact on the cause of orange
cultivation in Tamenglong district and the State as well

I) Method of Production:

Climate and Soil

The successful establishment of an orchard and satisfactory production is dependent on the
favorable combination of certain natural factors and management factors. The climate includes
basic environmental elements like temperature, rainfall, atmospheric humidity.

A reasonably deep and fertile uniform soil having good drainage and adequate supply of water for
irrigation is the basic for successful establishment of mandarin orchard. Soil depth of one meter is
necessary. The temperature range for growing citrus is 14 – 40o C, however, the best growth and
performance occur between 29 to 34o C.

Propagation
Tamenglong Orange plants are propagated by seed as well as vegetative means. Vegetative
propagation is preferred because it ensures true to type plants, uniform quality, regular and early
bearing. In Manipur mandarin cultivation has been followed through planting seedlings raised
locally by the farmer or in private nurseries.

GI Journal No. 140 22 August 31, 2020

 Planning of orchard establishment
If the site is new one and uncultivated previously, it has to be cured before planting. The site must
be cleared of all trees and shrubs. After removing all the roots and shrubs up to the depth of 60
cm, the ground is ploughed and harrowed until it presents smooth surface. On the hill slopes,
terraces should be made along the contours. If terracing is not possible on steep slope at least
half moon terrace should be made at the time of planting. Raising some cover crops before
planting may enrich the soil nutrients. In hills, in order to get sufficient sunlight, planting should
preferably be done in southward directions. In plains, orchards can be established in square
system by keeping row to row and plant to plan distance of 6m x 6m.

On hills contour system is followed and the trees are planted in rows along lines of equal elevation
or contour made at a distance of 5.5 to 6 m. The trees in this type of topography are not at
equidistance and the number of trees per unit area is generally less than plain land orchards.

Spacing and Planting

On rich fertile soils with crumbly soil structure wider spacing of 7 m x 7m is required while in
unfertile soil closer spacing is recommended (5 m x 5 m) in view of their less prolific growth.
Planting is done in pit with 60cm x 60 cm x 60 cm. The pit is filled with FYM or pig manure and
sand in a 1:1:1 ratio with subsurface soil. Due to heavy rainfall, the planting should be done after
the end of rainy season i.e. September– October. Planting should be avoided in hot weather.

Soil Management
It is mostly observed that soils in Manipur are acidic and hence liming with limestone of dolomite
is used to alleviate this problem. Application of dolomite lime @ 3 kg/ tree once in three years in
January – February improves soil reaction.

Manuring
This schedule is based on research at ICAR, however in actual cultivation farmers do not use any
chemical fertilizer or pesticides for their crops, and in some exceptional conditions even if they use
chemical fertilizer or pesticides the usage is very limited.

Irrigation
Manipur received very high rainfall spread over a period of 7 – 9 months and therefore, farmers
hardly follow the practice of giving additional water to the plant. However, continuous dry spell in
October-November, which is a critical period for fruit growth and development, can affect the
quality of produce; hence watering is required at an interval of 10 – 15 days during winter. Manual
watering to plants in water scarce upland areas is practiced by the farmers which requires huge
amount of labor.

Weeding
Weeds are the major problem in orchard plantation in Manipur, the area receives abundant
rainfall. Most of the weeds are controlled by hand pulling, hoeing, burning and tillage.

Training and pruning

Train the trees to a single stem up to a height of 40 – 50 cm from the ground level and there after
allow 4 -6 well shaped branches to grow. The bearing tree requires only little pruning. Pruning of
non-bearing trees can be done any time in the year but for bearing trees best time is just after
harvest.

Major Pests

GI Journal No. 140 23 August 31, 2020

 Tamenglong Orange has been found relatively tolerant to pest and disease in comparison of other
orange varieties because of its better adoption to agro climatic condition of the state. However,
the following pests and diseases are seen to occur in limited scale.

• Trunk borer (Anoplophora varsteegi)

• Leaf minor (Phyllocnistis citrella)
• Aphides (Toxoptera aurantii, T. dorsalis, T. citricidus)
• Fruit fly (Bactrocera sp)
• Fruit sucking moth (Othreis fullonia L)
• Citrus psylla (Diaphorina citri)
• Lemon butterflies (Papilio demoleus L and P. polytes L)

Major Diseases
• Anthracnose / Wither tip/ Die back (Collectotichum gloeosporididies, Diplodia netalensis,
Curyularia tuberculata)
• Felt disease ( Septobasidum pseudopendicillatum)
• Powdery mildew (Oidium tingitaninum)
• Pink disease (Pellicularia salmonicolor)
• Blue & Green mould (Phenicillium digitatum)
• Fruit rot (Alternaria citri)
• Canker and bark eruption (Xanthamonas citri)
• Greening (Mycoplasma like organisms)
• Tristeza or Quick decline ( Viral disease)
• Exocortis or Scaly butt
• Lichens & Mossess

Harvesting
Orange is harvested immediately after maturity to avoid fruit drop, fruit fly infestation, shrinkage
and loss of weight. Peel color is the most common method to judge maturity. The peak season for
harvesting falls between November-February in Manipur mid hill conditions.

J) Uniqueness:

• Tamenglong mandarin orange is bigger in size weighing on an average of 232.76 g compared

to other oranges of mandarin group.
• Tamenglong Orange is specially known for its sweet- sour taste and high juice content
(45.75%).
• The number of seeds per fruit in Tamenglong orange is less.
• Rind is medium thick and fairly loosely adherent.
• Segments of Tamenglong orange varies from 10 to 14 which are easily separable.
• The TSS is 11.93 (0Brix) more than most of the other oranges.
• It is very rich in ascorbic acid (48.12mg/100ml juice) compared to other oranges.
• It grows well in the climatic conditions of Tamenglong district of Manipur and has high
demand within and outside the state for its taste and flavour.
• The farmers of Tamenglong District grow oranges without applying any agro chemicals,
hence the product is organic by default.

K) Inspection Body:

Internal Watchdog mechanism

GI Journal No. 140 24 August 31, 2020

 The quality of Tamenglong orange will be monitored by internal watchdog mechanism in order to
maintained the original physical and chemical characteristics of the GI product by the following
committee members:

I. Producer groups of Tamenglong district of Manipur

II. Officers of the Horticulture department and DRDA
III. Representative of NERAMAC in Manipur

This committee will also help regulate the use of Geographical Indications for the welfare of local
farming community. This committee will also help regulate the use of Geographical Indications for
the welfare of local farming community. The committee will frame the terms and conditions to use
the name of Tamenglong Orange by any of the marketing agency. The logo of Tamenglong
Orange will be used to create wide publicity and promote GI registered produce.

Tamenglong Orange orchards will be identified and will be allotted an identification number to
ensure traceability and quality.

Regulation of GI in the territory

To regulate the use of GI in the territory, the Inspection Structure is proposed to comprise of the
following members:
• Two Representatives - Senior Scientist from ICAR Institute
• One Representative Director of Horticulture, Government of Manipur.
• Two Representatives - Tamenglong Orange Farmer
• One Representative from NERAMAC
• One Representative from National Research Centre For Citrus

L) Others:

Uses and Processing Opportunities

Tamenglong orange are usually consumed fresh. The fresh fruit is also used in salads, desserts
and main dished. Value addition can be carried out in the form of juice, candy, jam, jelly,
marmalade, canning, wine, extraction of essential oils, pectin and many more.

Juice is the most important processed product from the fruit. Pulp which is ruptured juice sacs and
segment walls recovered after the extraction process are added to the juice to provide mouth feel
and a natural appearance to the product.

Peel can be processed to extract peel oil which produce flavours and are largely used in food,
drink, cosmetics and chemical products. D-Limonene which is the main component of the peel oil
is used in the biodegradable solvents and cleaning products and in manufacturing of synthetic
resins and adhesives.

GI Journal No. 140 25 August 31, 2020

GI Journal No. 140 26 August 31, 2020
 Advertised under Rule 41 (1) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Rules,
2002 in the Geographical Indications Journal 140 dated August 31, 2020

G.I. APPLICATION NUMBER – 614

Application Date: 25-05-2018

Application is made by Ambedkar Mission Society Chamba, Ambedkar Bhawan, Chamba, District
Chamba – 176 310, Himachal Pradesh, India for Registration in Part A of the Register of Chamba
Chappal under Application No. 614 in respect of Footwear falling in Class – 25 is hereby advertised as
accepted under Sub-section (1) of Section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and
Protection) Act, 1999.

A) Name of the Applicant : Ambedkar Mission Society Chamba

B) Address : Ambedkar Mission Society Chamba,

Ambedkar Bhawan, Chamba,
District Chamba – 176 310, Himachal Pradesh,
India.

Facilitated By:
HP Patent Information Centre,
HP Council for Science, Technology &
Environment (HIMCOSTE),

C) Name of the Geographical Indication :

CHAMBA CHAPPAL

D) Types of Good : Class 25 - Footwear

E) Specification:

Chamba Chappals (slippers) are a tradition that dated back to the times of King Charat Singh (in
the early ninth century). The traditional Chamba chappal (slipper) was “nok-wali” or “nokdar”
prepared from locally made leather embroidered with silver and gold threads on soft velvet cloth
for ladies and gents. But the creativity of the artists has brought them to this point where they
have about a dozen varieties to sell. They are: Pathu, Slipper or V-shaped, fish-design, teen patti
wali, ek patti wali, chandani and balu for women and nokdar and bina nok wali sandal type and
even Pathu for men. The major raw material is sheep and goat skin, fancy leather, other leather,
locally made ordinary sole leather, chrome leather for upper portion of slippers, silver and gold
threads locally known as russi-tilla. The designs on these chappals (slippers) consist of leaves
and flowers. The Chamba Chappals have leather/rubber sole to provide support while walking on
hard terrain.

GI Journal No. 140 27 August 31, 2020

F) Description:

Leather craft and embroidery on leather goods in Himachal Pradesh has an interesting history.
There are two types of Chappals; one is plain footwear while the other is embroidered. The first
are made by men and the latter are made by women. These are handcrafted leather-made
chappals (slippers) that come in natural leather as well as other colors. Traditional Chamba
Chappals (slippers), plain or embroidered, are exceptionally comfortable to wear. They are
embroidered with multicolored threads - red, black, green, yellow and blue, and imitation zari (gold
thread). Apart from Chappals, you can also pick from a range of shoes, sandals, socks and belts.
Today, in keeping with the modern trends, new varieties and designs of leather goods have been
added to the traditional list like fancy shoes, sandals, shoes, belts etc. few of these designes are:

1. Baloo design:
The women of Chamba princely state wears many type of jewellery during weddings and
traditional festivals such as Lohri, Minjar fair etc, one of them is the nose wearing nath which
is called as Baloo in Chambayali language. The design of sandal is based on the design of
this Nath.

2. Notched V shape: -
This sandals are specially made for ladies. It is prepared in three ways
• Kadhai (fleck)
• decorating with colors
• Natural.

It looks like a hood of a snake to look at and a V shape to wear.

3. Fish design: - The design of fish slippers is based on the fish. When a fish swims, it looks
very beautiful. The fish design is prepared keeping in mind the posh posture of a fish that it
makes while swimming. In which the nose, eyes and wings of the fish are depicted.
4. Chaanani design: - When the moon comes out after full moon in the sky, it looks very
attractive. This design is based on that born Chaanani.

The major raw material is sheep and goat skin, fancy leather, suede leather, locally made ordinary
sole leather, chrome leather for the upper portion of slippers, rubber soles, silver and gold threads
locally known as russi-tilla on velvet and last but not the least is the embroidery skills. The leather
is also being imported from outside markets in neighbouring states as the locally available leather
does not suffice the requirement.

G) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no: 35

Chamba town is situated on the right bank of River Ravi. In ancient times the Ravi was known as
Iravati. Chamba, the valley of milk and honey is known for its streams, lakes, meadows, temples,
paintings, rumal (handkerchief) and footwears. Chamba has few rivals for its scenic beauty.
Chamba is situated at an altitude of 926 metres and spreads in the area of 24 square km. There
are three well defined ranges in the district - The Dhauladhar range, the Pangi or Pir Panjal range
and Zanskar range. Located on the banks of the Ravi river the township resembles an Italian
village fortress.

The main production area of chamba chappals consisting embroidered outdoor slippers,
embroidered bedroom slippers, Salooni embroidered leather socks and shoes etc. are the Mehla,
Bhattiyat, Tisa, and Salooni areas of Chamba district.

GI Journal No. 140 28 August 31, 2020

H) Proof of Origin (Historical records):

The art of leather embroidery in India probably organized with the peasant class which has
contributed the best specimens. It flourished under the patronage of the princes, rulers and
courtiers. Like other applied arts, embroidery reflects the cultural traditions of a people. The
mango has provided inspiration to embroider of different periods. The mango leaf is used during
many religious and social ceremonies. The mango is an over whelming favorite and variations of
the mango motif are found in different parts of the district under names associated with other
objects of more or less similar size and shape.

The origin of famed leather-embroided Chamba Chappals dates back to 1808. A Katoch princess,
sister of Raja Bir Singh of Nurpur, protested against her marriage proposal Raja Charat Singh
(1808-1844) of Chamba feeling that people of Chamba wore crude shoes. Therefore, a cobbler
from Panj Baria village of Nurpur (Kangra) was sent in her dowry to make beautiful embroidered
leather footwear for her. The descendants of that family still reside in Chamba town and they are
known by the name of Panj Baria. Gradually the art of leather embroidery developed its roots in
Chamba. It is said that before that time, the people of Chamba only wore crude grass shoes. For
a long time, these were worn by kings and queens only. But it was after the British popularized it
and protected the art that it became a product of public use (as told by a shop owner). Gradually
the art of leather embroidery developed its roots in Chamba.

The Chamba Chappal has been used in Chamba since 1808. The proof of their use at that period
of time can be found in the letters written to Cobbler (Pipoo) from renowned persons including the
British Govt. Officers at that time see in Appendix I. The book named “Survey Reports on
Handcrafts of Chamba (Himachal Pradesh)” published in1969 by The Director of Industries,
Himachal Pradesh also consist some of tables mentioning employment, working days, mode of
work, raw material consumed, productive investment and output in Rupees during 1960‟s for
Chamba Chappal in different working centres specifically in Chamba, Mehla, Brahmour, Bhattiyat,
Tissa and Salooni Tehsils of Chamba.

I) Method of Production:

Raw Materials

Following are the major raw materials required for manufacturing of Chamba Chappal:-

• Leather: The basic raw material needed for Chamba Chappal is leather. Buff Leather is used
for the “upper” and sole mostly. Sheep and Goat leather is mostly used for the vamp, tongue
and quarter.
• Rubber: Rubber is most important material for making sole of the chappals. In earlier days,
the sole of chappals were made of leather itself but these days rubber is used since it makes
the chappals cheaper.
• Wool: wool is another major component for the embroidery.
• Threads: Silver and golden threads locally known as rum' tilla.
• Velvet Cloths: Velvet cloth is used for doing embroidery which is later stitched on the leather.
• Water: Water is also used in preparing colours.
• Synthetic Adhesive: Synthetic adhesive or neoprene is used for pasting various parts of
chappals.
• Metal Sheets: Metal sheets are cut into various shapes for making the patterns
• Oil: Oil is used for colouring too.
• Tools: A variety number of tools are used for cutting, pasting and lasting the leather chappals
• Sewing Machines: Sewing machines are often used for stitching the various parts of leather
chappal.

GI Journal No. 140 29 August 31, 2020

 Tools and Their Uses

Tools Use
to create small circular impression used to represent
Seeder
seeds
Background Tool to emphasize the design in producing carved leather
to create indention on one side of a cut so that it get
Beveler raised with variety of faces including striped, checked,
rounded, smoothed and crosshatched
Rambi cutting, skinning and threshing the leather
make bold cuts to define the pattern or image
Swivel Knife
being carved
to drive the stamps used to mat down the background
Rawhide Mallet
and create shading
to add emphasis to areas of a carving(give an
Comouflage Tool
impression similar to sea shell)
to press down areas of the design that need to appear
Pear Shader
carved
create a curved impression of a series of short, closely
Veiner or Shell Tool
spaced lines
Kundi stitching
Saant (hammer) for pressing the glued parts together
Pathri on which the cutting and initial hammering takes place
Punch or dye for cutting out the design on the upper portion
Clast for giving the shoe shape and size
Tripoi (the three- legged to place the shoe upside down, to give the final
stand) hammering
Owal to make holes for rivet
used in keeping the layers of leather in upper portion of
Rivets
the chappal(slipper) together
Scissors to cut
Lakkad (old piece of wood) to polish the leather
Milk adhesive for coloring
Silk Thread or tilla for embroidery
to give the chappal (slipper) a shining look in, the cut-
Gift paper
out designed portions
Nails to fix the heel onto the sole
Pinches to stretch leather

Manufacturing Process
The complete process of making the Chamba Chappal from the first stage to the last is given
below:

Designing: The chappal to be manufactured is designed depending upon the market demand
and raw material. The designs of the vamp, quarter, upper and sole are made into patterns. These
patterns are generally the recycled parts of the adhesive tin cans.

Sourcing: Earlier, leather was processed and manufactured in Chamba itself but after Maneka
Gandhi banned it, the artisans of Chamba bring the leather from outside. Various grades of
leather are used for various parts of chappal.

GI Journal No. 140 30 August 31, 2020

 Wetting the Leather: The leather sheets are dipped in water for at least half an hour and then
laid out for drying. This softens the leather and prepares it for embossing and stamping.

Clicking: Clicking/cutting is carefully done to extract the right part of the leather for appropriate
part of the footwear. It is done using knives.

Skiving: The leather pieces cut out are skived to bring out the right finished flat texture. The
thickness of the edges are removed using a skiving knife or a beveller. This is done to ensure that
the finished product look bulky. Skiving also avoids discomfort in the footwear.

Carving Leather: The process of creating designs on leather is called leather carving Leather
carving entails using metal implements to compress moistened leather in such a way as to give a
three dimensional appearance to a two dimensional surface. The surface of the leather is not
intended to be cut through, as would be done in filigree. The main tools used to "carve" leather
include: swivel knife, veiner, beveler, pear shader, seeder and background tool. The swivel knife
is held similar to pencil and drawn along the leather to outline patterns. The other tools are punch-
type implements struck with a wooden, nylon or rawhide mallet. The object is to add further
definition with them to the cut lines made by the swivel knife.

Colouring/ dyeing: Leather dyeing usually involves the use of spirit or alcohol based dyes where
alcohol quickly gets absorbed into moistened leather, carrying the pigment deep into the surface.
"Hi-liters" and "Antiquing" stains can be used to add more definition to patterns. These have
pigments that will break away from the higher points of a tooled piece and so pooling in the
background areas give nice contrasts. Leaving parts unstained also provides a type of contrast.
Alternatives to spirit stains might include a number of options. Shoe polish can be used to dye and
preserve leather. Oils such as neat’s-foot or linseed can be applied to preserve leather but
darkens them. The red, brown, and black tones develop naturally through handling and as the
oiled leathers absorb the rays of the desert sun. Due to changing environmental laws, alcohol-
based dyes are soon to be unavailable. There are currently water-based alternatives available,
although they tend not to work as well.

Painting: Leather painting differs from leather dyeing in that paint remains only on the surface
while dyes are absorbed into the leather. Due to this difference, leather painting techniques are
generally not used on items that can or must bend nor on items that receive friction, such as belts
and wallets because under these conditions, the paint is likely to crack and flake off. However,
latex paints can be used to paint such flexible leather items. In the main though, a flat piece of
leather, backed with a stiff board is ideal and common, though three-dimensional forms are
possible so long as the painted surface remains secured. Acrylic paint is a common medium,
often painted on tooled leather pictures, backed with wood or cardboard, and then framed. Unlike
photographs, leather paintings are displayed without a glass cover, to prevent mold.

Leather Stamping and embossing: Leather stamping involves the use of shaped implements
(stamps) to create an imprint onto a leather surface, often by striking the stamps with a mallet.
Commercial stamps are available in various designs, typically geometric or representative of
animals. Most stamping is performed on vegetable tanned leather that has been dampened with
water, as the water makes the leather softer and able to be compressed by the design being
pressed or stamped into it. After the leather has been stamped, the design stays on the leather as
it dries out, but it can fade if the leather becomes wet and is flexed. To make the impressions last
longer, the leather is conditioned with oils and fats to make it water-proof and prevent the fibers
from deforming. Metal punches of various designs are used to make the patterns and designs on
the leather. This is done for the decoration of the footwear. The process can be done manually or
mechanically.

GI Journal No. 140 31 August 31, 2020

 Punching and eyeleting: This is a process which is done to prevent damage to the shoe when
tying shoelaces. Punching is also done for de3coration of the footwear.

Weaving: The weaving for the vamp is done after the strips of leather are cut. The intricate
weaving lends a beautiful and delicate texture and surface pattern to the chappals.

Perforating/ Embellishing: This is done to improve the aesthetics and hide any existing defects
in the product. This is a manual process.

Embroidery: Embroidery is done on velvet cloth with Reshimi (silk) threads (red, yellow, green,
blue, black gold etc.) in different designs/ motifs and then pasted on the upper portion of the
sandals made of pure leather. The designs are inspired by the local flora and fauna. Also a lot of
aquatic life motifs are prevalent in the work. Ambi is a three leaf motif which is very popularly
used. Tilla is the golden thread used in the embroidery. Only chain stitch is used to embroidery
which is simple yet looks beautiful. The leather work is done by men while the embroidery is done
by the women centric. No pre drawings are done. The designs come spontaneously and are
immensely ornate. Sitare is another kind of embroidery which is mainly used for making bridal
footwear.

Closing: This process involves assembling pieces together by pasting using synthetic adhesives
like neoprene or sewing together the various parts on a sewing machine. This the part where the
embroidered pieces of velvet get attached to the leather parts of the chappals.

Lasting: The upper part of the closed footwear is mounted on the wood or plastic „lasts‟ and fixed
using adhesives and/or tacks. The process is done manually.

Sole attachment: The inner surfaces of the footwear are roughened so that adhesives can fix
better. Soles are made of rubber/leather and are cleaned for better adhesion. The adhesive is
applied, dried, second coat applied, allowed to dry and then pasted to the footwear. The parts are
pressed together for better adhesion. It is also hammered at times to make it long lasting. Post the
adhesion process, lasts are removed.

Finishing: The leather is polished and finished using varnish. This is the final step which is done
to improve the footwear‟s aesthetics. Post this step, the footwears are carefully inspected, packed
and dispatched for being sold in the market.

Ladies’ Chappal (Embroidery Footwear)

These are also made in the same manner as the Chamba chappals except that the embroidery on
the vamp is done by women embroiderers. A cobbler simply explains the design to the
embroiderer and she herself embroiders the same on the vamp without tracing any design etc. on
it. This practice is not only prevalent in Chamba town but throughout the district. The embroidery
designs of Chamba town to some extent differ from the designs of Tissa and Salooni blocks.
These blocks have strictly adhered to the traditional local designs whereas in Chamba town, its
surrounding villages and in Bhuttiyat block the traditional designs with certain variations are
embroidered.

Following Steps are used to manufacture Ladies’ Chappal

• The design for „upper‟ (the part that covers the foot from above) is made on the leather by
cutting and punching using a punch and dye. {Some artists use calf-leather for the upper,
some use sheep‟s}.
• For those with the shining look, a gift paper is inserted between the „upper‟ and the „lining‟
that goes below the paper.

GI Journal No. 140 32 August 31, 2020

 • The upper and lining are then stitched together with the thread using a kundi. (for
embroidered uppers, the upper is first prepared on leather pieces of different sizes. The
thread used is silk and the embroidery is done without any prior drawing on it.
• The artists make an outline from the thread (stem stitch) and fill the remaining area with
cross-stitches and chain stitches).
• Extra portions of the leather are cut and scraped. Then, the banwar (insole or the part that
goes below our feet) is prepared. It is cut in the shape that the artist draws according to the
size of the chappal (slipper).
• A punch is then used to make designs on the border. The extra portions from the insole are
removed. A slit is made in the insole. The upper is then fixed in the slit with the „SR solution‟.
Lastly, the sole is cut and the insole and upper is pasted on it.
• Heel is hammered onto the sole with nails. With a wooden piece which they call
„lakkad/lakkar‟ the chappal (slipper) is polished. {If a colored chappal (slipper) has to be
prepared, then the first step is followed by mixing the powdered color in doodh (milk) solution
and applying it on the leather sheet.}

The whole process takes about three to four hours to make a pair and five to six pairs are
prepared in a day on an average. They come in sizes 1 to 8.

Gents’ Chappal (Plain Footwear)

These are made by the male members of establishments. As usual the bottom of the chappal etc.
is first cut according to required size and shape. The filling with waste leather pieces is done by
gluing the same with paste, made locally known as Lati. Thereafter it is hidden by sticking the
lower and the upper portion of the sole with a flat leather chord. After that the vamp along with the
tying strap is stitched. The vamp consists of inter woven small leather strips. Particular attention is
paid while stitching the front of the vamp so that its shape is not spoiled.

Following Steps are used to manufacture Gents’ Chappal

• Firstly, the insole is prepared. Then the upper is cut according to the size and given the
traditional design with slits.
• Banwar (insole) is then fitted and pasted on the insole.
• Outsole is then cut and insole is pasted on it.
• Heel is then fixed on the sole with nails.
• With a piece of wood (called “lakkad / lakkar” in Hindi), the chappal (slipper) is given a
natural polish.

About two pairs of men‟s chappals (slippers) are prepared in a day. They come in sizes 1 to 10.

Products Manufactured

The following are the main products manufactured by artisans in various working centres:-

1. Embroidered outdoor slippers.

2. Embroidered bed room slippers.
3. Embroidered Chamba Chappals.
4. Embroidered leather socks worn with Chamba Chappals.
5. Embroidered village type shoes-Juta.
6. Embroidered pani-juta.
7. Fancy embroidered ladies footwears.
8. Plain Chamba chappals-“Noakdar”, “Jalidar” and "Khopa".
9. Plain leather socks worn with Chamba chappals.

GI Journal No. 140 33 August 31, 2020

J) Uniqueness:

The well known Chamba chappal is unique for its artistic details and beauty. Chamba Chappals
have been in use since 19th century. The striking feature of Chamba Chappals is the embroidery
done on them. In General, the embroidery is done on a separate piece of felt using brightly
colored silk yarn known as Chamba Kadhai and a hooked needle. Gold and silver threads known
as Russi-tilla are also used. These embroidered felt pieces are then pasted or stitched using
velvet cloth on the chappals. The footwear so made is not only beautiful, but also very comfortable
and sturdy. The Chamba Chappals have leather/rubber sole to provide support while walking on
hard/ hilly terrain.

K) Inspection Body:

In order to deal with GI related issues for Chamba Chappal following inspection body will be
constituted:

1. General Manager, District Industry Centre, Chamba or his representative

2. President, Chamba Chappal Maker Association or his representative
3. DC Chamba or his representative
4. SP Chamba or his representative
5. Joint Member Secretary, Himachal Pradesh Council for Science, Technology &
Environment (HIMCOSTE), or his representative

The scope of the work of inspection body would be as follows:-

1 – Issues related to quality control mark/ certification

2 – Legal issues related to Geographical Indication
3 – Random checking at the production/ sale centres for the violation of GI Act.
4 – Awareness about GIs/ IPR Issues, Technology up-gradation

After the registration of Chamba Chappal under Geographical Indications Act 1999, the logo
designed would be used by all Authorised Users of the Chamba Chappal. It would help in
checking counterfeit products from entering the market. The Patent Information Centre, State
Council for Science, Technology & Environment in collaboration with Ambedkar Mission Society,
District Industry Centre Chamba will formulate schemes for the overall improvement of Chamba
Chappal artisans besides providing technological and marketing inputs.

L) Others:

The Chamba Chappal has the distinction of being appreciated by the European Community. The
Handloom and Handicrafts Industries of the state has come to the rescue of this dying art and has
set up a footwear factory and the production center for embroidery production at Chamba to keep
the traditional art alive. The Corporation is also providing the marketing facilities through
emporiums set up at different places within and outside the state. New designs are now being
introduced by keeping intact the basic and essential traditional spirit of local designs. Now the
demand for these products is increasing due to the inflow of tourists and visitors to Chamba and
Dalhousie towns.

GI Journal No. 140 34 August 31, 2020

GI Journal No. 140 35 August 31, 2020
 Advertised under Rule 41 (1) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Rules,
2002 in the Geographical Indications Journal 140 dated August 31, 2020

G.I. APPLICATION NUMBER – 636

Application Date: 10-12-2018

Application is made by North Eastern Regional Agricultural Marketing Corporation Limited (NERAMAC) at
9 Rajbari Path, Ganeshguri, G S Road, Guwahati – 781 005, Assam, India for Registration in Part A of the
Register of Dalle Khursani under Application No. 636 in respect of Chilli falling in Class – 30 is hereby
advertised as accepted under Sub-section (1) of Section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods
(Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

A) Name of the Applicant : North Eastern Regional Agricultural Marketing

Corporation Limited (NERAMAC)

B) Address : North Eastern Regional Agricultural Marketing

Corporation Limited (NERAMAC),
9 Rajbari Path, Ganeshguri, G S Road,
Guwahati – 781 005, Assam, India.

C) Name of the Geographical Indication :

DALLE KHURSANI

D) Types of Good : Class 30 - Chilli

E) Specification:

Red Cherry Pepper (Capsicum annum var cerasiforme), locally known as Dalle khursani in
Sikkim is well known for its unique flavour and high pungency. The crop belongs to the family
Solanaceae and genus Capsicum. Plant grows up to 100 - 130 cm height under open field and
150 - 180 cm height in green house condition. There is much diversity in Red Cherry Pepper pod
viz. dropping pod, erect pod, yellow pod, round pod etc. Each plant produces about 2.5 - 3.0 kg
fruits with about 500 - 1000 pods. The crop can be grown round the year under protected
condition. Dalle khursani is almost round cherry size and bright red when fully ripen.

The Scoville score for this chilli is rated in the range of 100,000 to 350 000 SHU (Scovelle Heat
Units). It is one of the valuable cash crops and grown all over the state since it is valued for its
diverse commercial uses. It is perennial crop characterized by small to medium sized pods. Dalle
khursani is almost round cherry size and bright red when fully ripen. It is used in a multitudes of
food preparations and marketed in different regions. Fruits are also used making pickle, paste,

GI Journal No. 140 36 August 31, 2020

 powder and dry chilli. The high flavour is the unique characteristic of this chilli. Besides capsaicin
which produces pungency, it contains carotenoids and phenolic compounds and is being used as
natural pigment and anti - oxidant agents. This chilli has also many medicinal properties.

F) Description:

Dalle Khursani (Capsicum annum var. cerasiforme) is one of the valuable cash crops of Sikkim.
The crop is grown all over Sikkim since it is valued for its diverse commercial uses. The crop
belongs to the family Solanaceae and genus Capsicum. Plant grows up to 100 - 130 cm height
under open field and 150 - 180 cm height in green house condition. There is much diversity in Red
Cherry Pepper pod viz. dropping pod, erect pod, yellow pod, round pod etc. Each plant produces
about 2.5 - 3.0 kg fruits with about 500 - 1000 pods. The crop can be grown round the year under
protected condition. Dalle khursani is almost round cherry size and bright red when fully ripen. It is
grown and widely consumed in Sikkim, Nepal and the entire eastern Himalayan belt.

Dalle khursani of Sikkim is a pungent chilli but has many medicinal properties and it is used for
making pickle, paste, powder and dry chilli (for pickling, chilli can be picked either at green or ripe
stage). Dalle chilli contains capsaicin which produces different pungency levels as well as
carotenoids and phenolic compounds and is being used as natural pigment and antioxidant
agents. However, the Scoville scale indicates that its pungency is very high and rated in the range
of 100,000 to 350 000 SHU (Scoville Heat units).

Dalle khursani are high in vitamin A, vitamin E, and potassium, and low in sodium. One hundred
grams of fresh Dalle khursani has 240 mg of vitamin C (five times higher than an orange), 11,000
IU of vitamin A, and 0.7 mg of vitamin E. Vitamin C is sensitive to heat and drying but vitamin A is
very stable, and paprika and dried chilli both contain relatively high amounts of this important
nutrient.
Peppers are well-known for their health benefits. Herbalists have long promoted peppers for their
health enhancing effects. These include clearing the lungs and sinuses, protecting the stomach by
increasing the flow of digestive juices, triggering the brain to release endorphins (natural
painkillers), making the mouth water, which helps to neutralize cavity-causing acids, and helping
protect the body against cancer through antioxidant activity.

G) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no: 42

The crop is commercially cultivated mid hills of Sikkim in the West, the South and the East
Districts of the state and adjoining in the Darjeeling district of West Bengal.

H) Proof of Origin (Historical records):

Chilli (Capsicum sp) has its centre of origin in America tropics. Out of some 25-30 species of
Capsicum, the species C. annum is one of the most important species and is being domesticated
and cultivated in the world. Red Cherry Pepper is a variety of C. annum is mostly grown in Sikkim
and its surrounding regions like Darjeeling for its pungent fruits.

The greatest genetic variability of C. annum is found in Sikkim .Sikkim is well known for unique,
high pungent Red Cherry Pepper, locally called Dalle khorsani. The fruits of C. annum var.

GI Journal No. 140 37 August 31, 2020

 cerasiforme is a widely used spice, and it is a valuable cash crop of Sikkim. There are 200
landraces of chillies from Northeast Region and among these Sikkim Dalle khursani (round
chillies) of Sikkim, Thadey khursani (erect fruit), Thalo khorsani (vegetable type), Jeerey khursani
(thin fruit), Lamchey khursani (medium size - less pungent) are the important chilli varieties. Dalle
khursani has the twin combination of high pungency and characteristic aroma for which is it liked
in Sikkim and fetch premium price.

I) Method of Production:

Soil and Climate

Red Cherry Pepper prefers warm and humid climate. The drop can tolerate high temperature but
cannot withstand heavy rains during growth, flowering and fruit set. Very cold weather (less than
120) during night also hampers growth and fruit set. Ideal temperatures for flowering are 20-250C.
It can be cultivated in wide range of altitudes and soils. Sandy loam soil with pH of 5.5 - 7.5 is
ideal. Water stagnation is detrimental to the crop. Highly acidic soils need to be reclaimed using
limestone or dolomite.

Land preparation
The main field should be ploughed 3-4 times for fine tilth. Farm yard manure is incorporated
during last ploughing. Ridges and furrows are made for irrigated crop during summer season. In
summer, planting should be done on ridges, while in rainy season it is better on ridges. Shade
should be given during summer season for one week period.

Nursery management
Site should be at an elevated place and preferably near the planting site. It should be sunny, near
to water source and land should be well drained and nursery beds should be made near partially
shaded area.

Nursery can be raised under protected structure like poly house and net house. Beds should be
prepared by mixing FYM@ 7kg/m2 +Neem cake@2 kg/m2+ Vermicompost @1 kg/m2+ Sand @3-4
kg.m2. The convenient size of beds is 1 m x1 m, sufficient space for central path and inter-bed
path to carry out intercultural operations. About 400-500 of seed is enough for planting one ha of
land. Line sowing is preferred to broadcasting. Line should be made at spacing of 10 cm and 2 cm
deep. The seeds should be sown3-5 cm apart.

Mulching is done with dry leaves, paddy straw and black polythene for early germination. Weeds
should be removed regularly from beds and frequent watering should be done. Damping off is the
most common disease which can be managed by applying Tricoderma viridis and Psedomonas
florescens culture @10g/litre but in severe case drenching with Ridomil/Matco @ 3g/litre is also
advisable.

Transplanting
Generally, 30-35 days old seedling is ready for transplanting. It is better to keep seedlings in open
condition a day before transplanting. Transplanting should be done in the late afternoon.

GI Journal No. 140 38 August 31, 2020

 Planting
Dalle Khursani can be grown round the year if proper care is taken under protected condition. It
prefers warm humid climate during early stages and dry weather towards maturity of pods. It can
be grown up to 500-1400 m above msl. Excessive rainfall causes defoliation, rotting of pods and
with incidence. Normally crop is planted in March-April. The optimum spacing for this crop is 1 m x
1 m and planting should preferably be done on raised bed. Water stagnation in the field causes
serious damage to the crop.

Nutrient Management
Nutrient management is done through organic sources with the use of different nutrient rich
manures and growth promoters. The recommended manures and bio fertilizers for Dalle Khursani
is as follows:

Source Dose Application Time

FYM 20t/ha(2 kg/plant) Soil 15 days before planting
Neem Cake 2t/ha(20g/plant) Soil 7 days before planting
Azosprillum PSB 20%(200g/l) root dip Seedling treatment At planting
for 15 minutes
Vermicompost 2.5t/ha(250g/plant) Soil treatment 20 days after planting
Bio NPK 0.3%(3 ml/l) Foliar spray 30 days after planting
Boron(Multiplex) 0.2%(2g/l) Foliar spray 30 days after planting
Miraculon 0.05%(0.5ml/plant) Foliar spray 20 & 40 days after planting
Cow urine 20%(Urine:water- 1:4) Soil drench At 20 days interval

Intercultural Operations
Manual weeding should be done. Gap filling is done during second irrigation 10 days after
transplanting. Light hoeing is required to remove weeds and loosen soil for better aeration and
root growth. In order to boost vegetative growth, fruit set and yield, buds from the first and second
nodes are pinched off. Unproductive branches below first nodes are also clipped in cooler season
especially when sunscald is not a problem. Tall growing chilli needs staking to prevent lodging
due to fruit weight. Earthing - up of the plots should also be done after 30 - 45 days of planting.
Dried leaves, paddy straw, saw dust or aluminum foil can be used for mulching. Black polythene
sheet is the most preferable mulch material for this crop.

Irrigation
A continuous supply of optimum water is essential for proper growth and fruit yield. The first
irrigation should be given immediately after transplanting and water should be provided at weekly
interval. Heavy irrigation is avoided because it causes soil borne diseases like wilt and collar rot.

Plant protection
Aphids (Aphis gossypii and Myzus persicae), locally called as Lye kira, attack the sap and reduce
the vigour of the plant and secrete honey dew which attract ants and develop sooty mould in the
lower part of the leaf. They also act as vector for viral diseases. Application of systemic bio-
pesticides like Verticillium lecani/petroleum-based oil spray@6 ml/lit is recommended. Fruit fly
also attack the plant. They lay eggs in the fruits and after hatching, maggot starts feeding on fruits

GI Journal No. 140 39 August 31, 2020

 resulting fruit drop. Placing of 8-12 pheromone traps per ha at the time of fruit set and collection
and destruction of dropped fruits manages the problem.

Harvesting
The plant starts flowering after 70-80 days of planting and first picking is done at ripening stage. It
continues to bear fruits for 2-3 years. Generally 4-5 picking are done every year. The fruit yield
varies from 500 g -1000 g per plant. While picking, the fruits are lifted gently off the plant without
causing injury or breakage of stem.

J) Uniqueness:

i) Dalle Khursani, belonging to the Capsicum family, is a local cultivar of Sikkim and is
known to be one of the hottest chilies in the world.
ii) It is an important cash crop of Sikkim.
iii) It is used for making pickle, paste, powder and dry chilli and thus has diverse commercial
uses.
iv) Dalle khursani is almost round cherry size and bright red when fully ripen
v) Dalle khursani has the twin combination of high pungency and characteristic aroma.
vi) The high flavour is the unique characteristic of this chilli.
vii) It can be grown all the year round under protected condition.
viii) It continues to bear fruits for 2-3 years and normally 4-5 picking are done every year, thus
supply of the chillis is continuous.
ix) Dalle khursani of Sikkim is a pungent chilli but has many medicinal properties.
x) It is grown completely in organic way of cultivation

K) Inspection Body:

Internal Watchdog mechanism

The quality of Dalle Khursani (Red Cherry Pepper) will be monitored by internal watchdog
mechanism in order to maintain the original physical and chemical characteristics as per GI
product by the following committee members:

I. Producer groups of Sikkim.

II. Horticulture department officers
III. Technical officer from Spice Board.
IV. Representative of NERAMAC in Sikkim.

This committee will also help regulate the use of Geographical Indications for the welfare of local
farming community. This committee will also help regulate the use of Geographical Indications for
the welfare of local farming community. The committee will frame the terms and conditions to use
the name of Dalle khursani by any of the marketing agency. The logo of Dalle khursani will be
used to create wide publicity and promote GI registered produce.

Dalle khursani farms will be identified and will be allotted an identification number to ensure
traceability and quality.

GI Journal No. 140 40 August 31, 2020

 Regulation of GI in the territory

To regulate the use of GI in the territory, the Inspection Structure is proposed consisting of the
following members:

• Two Representatives - Senior Scientist from ICAR Institute

• One Representative from Spice Board
• One Representative Director of Horticulture, Government of Sikkim
• Two Representatives - Dalle khursani Farmers
• One Representative from NERAMAC

L) Others:

Dalle khursani are well-known for their health benefits. Herbalists have long promoted peppers for
their health enhancing effects. These include clearing the lungs and sinuses, protecting the
stomach by increasing the flow of digestive juices, triggering the brain to release endorphins
(natural painkillers), making the mouth water, which helps to neutralize cavity-causing acids, and
helping protect the body against cancer through antioxidant activity (Andrews, 1995).

Uses
Very addictive, this chilli is a favorite side-dish with the usual 'daal-bhaat' in the Nepal-Sikkim belt.
Commonly used for chutneys and sauces along with momos, it is regularly consumed in winters
as it keeps the body warm. Giving the sweet-tingly taste, Dalle has now become a very widely
used chilli in the North Eastern regions of India due to its addictive taste. It is also eaten with rice
alone in many villages of Sikkim to cancel out the intense heat.

There are many homemade recipes using Dalle khursani like Chicken chilli, Dalle achaar etc. But
the most infamous one of them is the fermented Dalle along with yak-buttermilk (also known as
soft Churpi). The most commonly used form of it is the fermented pickle. From pickles to pizzas
inhabitants keep experimenting with food using it. The popular red chutney accompanying Momos
most popularly uses this chilly. Dalle is now so popular with foreign tourists that the Sikkim
Government encourages the growth of Dalle for exports also.

GI Journal No. 140 41 August 31, 2020

GI Journal No. 140 42 August 31, 2020
 Advertised under Rule 41 (1) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Rules,
2002 in the Geographical Indications Journal 140 dated August 31, 2020

G.I. APPLICATION NUMBER – 645

Application Date: 04-03-2019

Application is made by Bharat Industrial Co - operative Society Limited at Kazi Tola, Walidpur, District:
Mau – 276 405, Uttar Pradesh, India for Registration in Part A of the Register of Mau Saree under
Application No. 645 in respect of Textile Goods and Clothing falling in Class – 24 and 25 is hereby
advertised as accepted under Sub-section (1) of Section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods
(Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

A) Name of the Applicant : Bharat Industrial Co - operative Society Limited

B) Address : Bharat Industrial Co - operative Society Limited,

Kazi Tola, Walidpur,
District: Mau – 276 405,
Uttar Pradesh, India.

Facilitated by:
Textiles Committee, Government of India,
Ministry of Textiles.

C) Name of the Geographical Indication :

MAU SAREE

D) Types of Good : Class 24 & 25 - Textile Goods and Clothing

E) Specification:

The Mau Saree is produced by the weavers by a combination of Silk, Cotton and Art Silk yarn
through handlooms. The Mau Saree are especially renowned for the novelty of the designs used,
and the procedure of using extra weft and different colour patterns used and thin finesse of the
fabric.

Mau Saree is famous for its convention look. In the early stages, saree produced in Mau
comprised of handspun cotton yarn and were woven on throw shuttle pit loom. The dobbies are
widely used for making butties and small designs in the Saree. For bigger designs, the weavers
used the technique of “Hand lacing” during the weaving process. Keeping the demand pattern in
mind the Jacquard used loom are also used. The design frames used in Mau looms are unique as
every Jacquard has a different design plate. These design plates are made by local artisans as
per stipulation of weavers.

The majority of the population of Mau, which is about 60 percent, is engaged in the weaving
occupation and they are weavers by birth.

GI Journal No. 140 43 August 31, 2020

 F) Description:

Basically, Mau is the city of weavers. The occupation of weaving is very old and conventional. The
weavers used to produce sarees and other fabrics like Joda, Lungi etc. In the earlier time, cotton
sarees, cotton joda (markeen) etc. were the main products. The tradition of weaving has been
practiced in the Mau for last 200 years and is a source of livelihood for weaver's family. It also
closely affiliated to the Socio- Cultural ethos of the weavers’ family.

In the early stages, Saree produced in Mau comprised of handspun cotton yarn and were, woven
on throw shuttle pit loom. The Mau saree are especially renowned for the novelty of the designs
used, the procedure of hand-spinning using extra weft and the different colour patterns used and
last thin finesse of the fabric. Fine sarees of Mau is much sought-after all over the country; the
process to weave such an exquisite wonder begins from a very basic level of spinning the yam.
The high quality of the product owes its origin to the extreme care that artisans seek to adopt from
the very beginning to the end of the production process.

The Mau saree is produced by the weavers by a combination of Silk, Cotton and Art Silk yarn
through handlooms. In the British regime the people started weaving of Saree and Lungi with the
help of looms. As the time passed wide border saree production started at Mau. Keeping the
demand pattern in mind the Jacquard used loom are also used. Presently, Sarees of Mau are
made by using Pure Silk & Art Silk as warp and Pure silk, and cotton yam are used as weft.

A range of products are produced by the weavers in this production centre. The products
manufactured in this production centre are Sarees, popularly known as "Mau Saree". In addition
to this, Ladies Dress Material (LDM), Bed cover, Dhoti, Lungi, etc. are also produced in Mau
through handlooms.

G) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no: 50

The production centre is situated in the Mau district of Uttar Pradesh, which lies between 83° 17'
to 84° 52' East & 24° 47' to 26°17' North. The production of the Mau Sarees is basically centred
around Maunath Bhanjan city. The main centres of production of the product in the city are
Mirzahadipura, Doomanpoura, Imamganj, Jamalpura, Aurangabad, Harikeshpura, Kyaritola,
Qasimpura, Malikatahirpura, Hatthimadari, Rauza, Chatarpura, Chandpura, Ghasipura,
Munsipura, Paharpura, Raghunathpura, Bolakipura, Khiribag etc. Besides, the weavers of Adari,
Kopaganj, Ghosi, Khairabadand Mohamedabad are also producing the product.

Mau district is situated on fertile planes of Ganga - Ghaghara doab. In its north, Ghaghara river is
on the border, Ghazipur district is on the south, Ballia district in the east & Azamgarh district is in
the west side.

This district represents geographical characteristics of mid Gangetic plane. "Khachari" & "Khadar"
types of soil found in the areas of north of Azamgarh - Ballia Road. In some high places "Bangar"
soil is also found. In southern part, the river flow is absent and due to it that area have Bangar
type of soil; which is non fertile land.

In the city of Maunath Bhanjan, Mirzahadipura, Doomanpoura, Imamganj, Jamalpura,

Aurangabad, Harikeshpura, Kyaritola, Qasimpura, Malikatahirpura, Hatthimadari, Rauza,
Chatarpura, Chandpura, Ghasipura, Munsipura, Paharpura, Raghunathpura, Bolakipura, Khiribag
etc. are the main centres of weaving.

GI Journal No. 140 44 August 31, 2020

 Outside of the city there are towns like Adari, Kopaganj, Ghosi, Khairabadand Mohamedabad,
within a range of twenty km., are also the centres of manufacturing of sarees. All these area are
also important production base for Mau Sarees.

H) Proof of Origin (Historical records):

The origin of the Mau Saree is traced back to 16th century AD. It is believed that Weaving was
started at Mau from the period of Moghul. An assumption is that this area was gone to Jahanara,
the daughter of Shahjahan. Among those people came with Jahanara, some knew the weaving.
As the time passed, these people started weaving at Mau. Initially these people made yarn as well
as weaving. A person called Tansen, a weaver, established a handloom in Maunath Bhanjan in
the 16th century and produced a thin fabric. Products initially manufactured at Mau were Fishing
Net and Gamchha. With the passing of time, people adopted this craft and therefore consequently
it converted into a large scale manufacturing place for handloom sarees. In due process the
cultural ethos of the region also get echoed in the products.

During the British regime, these people started weaving Saree and Lungi with help of Handlooms.
Before 1980, the weaver’s used to produce Sarees and fabrics with the help of handlooms only.

The district Gazetteer of the Mau has visualised the textile industry of Maunath Bhanjan in its
1965 edition.

I) Method of Production:

The basic raw material used by the weavers of Mau is Cotton yarn, Silk, Art Silk/ Viscose, Zari
and a combination of this material. The Saree is produced by using multi colour warp fibre and
weft of single colour. In the production process, firstly the yarn is dyed manually in six to eight
colours, then it is wrapped on a stick called ‘loori’ in the local language and this is another
system instead of beam.

Making designs and butties, the Dobbies are widely used in Mau. Designs are also "hand laced
into the fabric by the skilled weavers of this cluster and for making designs the jacquards are used
in Mau. Designs are drawn on a plain paper by the local based graphers with the help of graph
paper. Once the designs are prepared in the graph paper, it is punched into the cards used in the
jacquard.

The steps involved in the Traditional System of manufacturing of Saree are:

i. Procurement of Raw materials

ii. Hand dyeing
iii. Zari Warp
iv. Value added work & finishing.

Procurement of Raw materials:

The broker so called grihastah avails all the raw materials (Tana & Bana) to the weavers to weave
a Saree, means to say that the weavers do their job work and they found their return as the wages
called Bani.

In each family there are 4 to 6 members, on an average, are engaged in the activities. With the
help of all these family members, the one or two hand-looms held by them are operated. It is
individual and particularly home based business as like cottage industry and the weavers are job
workers.

GI Journal No. 140 45 August 31, 2020

 Selection and acquisition of the selected raw materials and to make it fit for use are the most
important first step. The process starts with the selection of the yarn, which is of various qualities
and procured from various production centres. The important raw material used for the
manufacturing of Mau saree industry is available locally in and around Mau.

Warping:
The warping is the process of making desired length and width of warp sheet by combining many
small packages called bobbins. The warp is prepared by rolling the threads on a wooden log in a
particular sequence of colours depending up on the design. This equipment consists of two parts:
one is a hollow octagonal wooden frame on which the threads are wrapped before being wound
around the warp roll; and the other is a big Wooden vertical frame on which the rolls of threads of
different colours are put from where they can be attached to the octagonal frame.

This is a hand-driven equipment and it provides the basic requirement for the loom, the warp roll.
Normally, threads of three or four colours are used for preparing the taana or warp, depending on
the design desired. After coloring, the hank yarn is warped on a stick so called ‘Loori’.

In the production of Sarees, Cotton, Silk and Zari is normally used in the warp. Cotton and Silk is
generally grey, but coloured/dyed raw materials are also available in the markets of Mau.

Pirn Winding:
Is a process of transferring yarn from one type of package to another. It consists of wheel (Cycle
rim), which moves the bobbin with the help of doori. The bobbin is attached with axis. The bobbin
rotates with the rotation of the axis with the rotation of wheel. The yarn thus wrapped on bobbin
used in weaving as weft yarn.

Zari:
Besides Cotton and Silk yarn, the cluster also uses golden of half-fine Zari for designing. Due to
the exorbitant price of pure Zari, the weavers are now using half-fine Zari also in place of pure
Zari. In the beginning Zari has been brought from Surat and Banaras. As the consumption of zari
increased, the demands were increased and consequently 200 units of Zari manufacturing are
running in and around Mau. Each unit has 120-140 spindles.

Production process of Zari:

a. Raw Material: The Rolex is used as raw materials for making half-fine zari. The sheets of
Rolex are brought form market.
b. Cutter Machine: Cutter Machine is used to cut the Rolex paper in the form of yarn, Rolex
sheets cuts and wrapped onto a bobbin.
c. Making of zari: Rolex yarn twisted with the 100 denier grey polyester yarn to make the zari.

Dyeing:
From the very beginning the conventional and traditional business, the components of sarees like
raw material are being coloured manually. The yarn is colored in 6-10 colours and cotton (weft) is
colored as per the requirement and demand of the market & fashion. Some of the sarees are
produced in grey yarn also.

These grey sarees are dyed as per the requirement in contrast shade. The warp for sarees is
usually taken of 5-6 saree- lengths and each saree-length is dyed into different colour for the sake
of variety.

GI Journal No. 140 46 August 31, 2020

 Designing:
Mau made Saree is famous for its conventional look. The dobbies are widely used for making
butties and small designs in the Saree. For bigger designs, the weavers are using the technique
of "hand lacing" during the weaving process. Designs are also drawn onto the Saree based on
jacquard technique. Mau made wooden jacquards of 120-400 hooks (tili) are used for designing.
Designs are drawn onto a plane paper like a map and after that these are converted on a graph
paper through mohalla based graphers. With the help of design on the graph paper, cards are
punched. Punching in cards is subject to the drawn design onto Saree.

The design is plotted on graph paper by plotters according to the dimensions desired. The plotted
nakshas are taken to a technician who punches them on cardboards in the required sequence.
These cards, linked in a chain as per the design, are then used by the jacquard to provide the
exact sequence of the different colours of the threads that are required for the design. The
jacquard (which runs by a weaver moving a pedal) has a rectangular block on which the chain of
punch cards runs. These cards have different patterns of holes. When the block is struck against
a set of needles, it pushes the requisite hooks backwards. The needles where the card is punched
remain unaffected, while the other needles are pressed and the hooks associated are withdrawn,
leaving the threads in the background. Thus, the threads in the hooks whose needle are not
pressed by the cylinder due to the hole in the punch card come forward to be a part of the weft
and the rest remain as it is, allowing for the complicated designs on the fabric.

Weaving activity:
Though all types of latest weaving technology is available in India, but the weaving industry in
Mau are still old and traditional. The people as well as weavers have neither adopted any new
technique nor upgraded technology. The looms that are used in Mau are 56” under pick.

In warping, no beam is used. Sizing of yarn is also not in use at Mau. Warping is bundled in form
of Loori (Bundle) and tension is provided by putting weight (Bhar) on warping threads. Jacquard
used in the industry are local made only. Design plates used in jacquard are unique. The design
plate made for one jacquard may not be used in other jacquard. The design plate used in jacquard
is made by local mohalla based artisans only.

Finishing:
After passing all above process, Sarees are ready for finishing. In Mau, three type of calendar
(finishing) are available.

Remove the extra Fibre: After completion of weaving, dyeing, and value addition work etc. extra
fibre/zari came through warp, weft, value addition work is removed under the supervision of
quality control/checker people.

Calendaring:
The calendaring work provide the good look to the Saree. In Mau the weaving work is done at a
small scale but the calendaring work could be done on a large scale only. Therefore, the Sarees
brought from different weavers are stitched together and made it in usable length, the calendaring
is done. There are three type of calendaring practiced in Mau.

a. Heat calendar: Heater calendar is done by the material passed through heat rolls to remove
the bend of fabric. This technique is used in the very earlier time and the technique is too old
and traditional.
b. Wax calendar: Having 5 rolls high speed wax calendar are steam based were came in Mau
in 2001.
c. Deca calendar: Deca Calendar is an advance version in calendaring. In this process,
material is passed through a calendaring machine where it is steamed and then pressed by

GI Journal No. 140 47 August 31, 2020

 heat rolls covered with thick fabric by this material get more shines at end. This machines
launched in 2002. This upgradation is taken as first attempt in the history of Mau made saree
industry.

Packing:
After the finishing of Saree, it is brought to godown of master weaver. It is folded to keep in plastic
bags and put into the box. Now the product is ready to sell in the market.

J) Uniqueness:

The Mau Saree is mostly produced by using Silk and Cotton and also using Art Silk yarn through
handlooms.

The key characteristics of Mau Saree lies with the human skill associated in the process of
production. Besides, the design and pattern including motifs created by the weavers are unique
and intrinsic. Each stage of products and th human skill associated with it makes value addition to
the finished products. The main aspects of the human skill in the different production process is as
follows:

Weaving:
 No beam is used for warp. The loori (Bundle) is used and tension is created with help of
bricks weight (Bhar).
 Making of Butis: The Mau sarees which are known for Zari patterns, buta (traditional circular
rounded designs) and other patterns. It is important to mention here that the patterns are
woven on the fabrics by using zari in warp. After completion of weaving, the extra zari warp is
removed and the butis are shown on the base of fabric.
 Single warp are coloured in 10 different colours i.e. by a warp of small piece, 10 different
coloured sarees are made. However in other places minimum 500 to1000 meter warp of
single colour is used.
 Weavers are learning weaving from their family by working daily with the family members.
They are weavers by birth.
 The weavers of Mau never use the motifs of living being, rather they find to put more
prominence to the colour combination & other aspects in the design part.
 Zari is used as warp fibre only

Loom:
 Dobbies are widely used for making butties in the Sarees besides making small designs by"
hand lacing" method. The weavers are skilled in making small designs through this method.
Jacquards are also used in Mau which are made by local artisan (karighar) only. Jacquard
artisan has learned the process from one generation to another; hence the product bears the
generational legacy of manufacturers.

Design:
 The design frames used in Mau looms are unique as every Jacquard has a different design
plate. These design plates are made by local artisans as per stipulation of weavers. The
design plate of one jacquard may not be used in other jacquard.

Human Skill:
 Weavers have learned the weaving from their family by working on the loom with them and
hence they are weavers by birth.
 Nakasa / design is made by local people only.
 All extra activity is done by local people i.e. Total textile industry is run by local people only.

GI Journal No. 140 48 August 31, 2020

 K) Inspection Body:

1. One Representative of the Department of Handlooms & Textiles, Government of Uttar

Pradesh;
2. One Representative from Handloom Weavers’ Centre at Varanasi, who are supporting the
weavers in quality control of the products;
3. One Representative from Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, Varanasi;
4. One Representative from the District Administration, Mau;
5. Two (2) Master craftsman or National / State Awardees for Mau Saree.
6. One Representative from Bharat Industrial Co-operative Society Limited.

Besides, the master artisans of the product have their own method of quality control. During the
process of production like winding & warping, creation of motifs, weaving, etc., the master
weavers inspect the different predetermined parameters and quality before permitting
final/finishing stage of production. However, providing the specification of the quality inspection of
the master artisans is difficult as it varies from one master weaver to the other.

L) Others:

GI Journal No. 140 49 August 31, 2020

GI Journal No. 140 50 August 31, 2020
 Advertised under Rule 41 (1) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Rules,
2002 in the Geographical Indications Journal 140 dated August 30, 2020

G.I. APPLICATION NUMBER – 647

Application Date: 14-05-2019

Application is made by Save Lahaul Spiti Society at Keylong, District: Lahaul & Spiti, Himachal Pradesh,
India for Registration in Part A of the Register of Lahauli Knitted Socks & Gloves under Application No.
647 in respect of Socks and Gloves falling in Class – 25 is hereby advertised as accepted under Sub-
section (1) of Section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

A) Name of the Applicant : Save Lahaul Spiti Society

B) Address : Save Lahaul Spiti Society,

Keylong, District: Lahaul & Spiti,
Himachal Pradesh, India.

Facilitated By:
HP Patent Information Centre,
HP Council for Science, Technology &
Environment (HIMCOSTE)

C) Name of the Geographical Indication :

LAHAULI KNITTED SOCKS & GLOVES

D) Types of Good : Class 25 - Socks and Gloves

E) Specification:

The local wool for knitting of Lahauli Socks & Gloves is obtained from Sheep breed in Lahaul and
Spiti. These are available in natural white, black, grey and brown colors. To design colorful pattern
people used to dye white wool with natural color from natural plant extracts. To dye sheep wool in
colors following plants were used which are found in heights of cold desert area; Arnebia
Euchroma (Dried )- Red Color, Lichen- Green Color, Rherium Webbianum - Yellow Color. The
local wool is generally rough in texture. Besides, Cashmere/ Pashmina wool is also used in
knitting wool products in Lahaul valley. The Cashmere/ Pashmina are obtained from the sheep
and goat rearing in high altitudes of Himalayas. The name is derived from an archaic spelling of
Kashmir. Cashmere is characterized by its luxuriously soft fibres. The products of Pashmina are of
super fine quality. They are sheer and light, yet extremely warm. Owing to their superior quality,
they are very expensive but coveted at the same time. Besides, Yak wool, Angora Wool, and
Merino (Cross Breed) wool is also used for knitting of woolen products in Lahaul and Spiti.

GI Journal No. 140 51 August 31, 2020

 The needles used for knitting gloves and socks are small in sizes when compared to the sweater
knitting needles. It is pointed on both ends. The numbers used for knitting socks and gloves are of
number – 10,11,12,13 (10 giving the thickest knit while 13 giving the finest knit). Generally, for the
purpose of knitting Lahauli Socks & Gloves, needle Number 11 and 12 are used.

The needles used for knitting the neck of sweater is of the same length of sweater knitting
needles, the only difference is that it has both the ends pointed and are of number of - 10,11,12
(the same fact, 10 giving thickest knit while 12 giving finest).

F) Description:

The tradition of wool weaving in Himachal Pradesh is very old. The earliest reference about
costumes that might have been in use in the region now forming Western Himalayan tract comes
from the Rigveda. The woollen products from the interiors of Himachal Pradesh have been
earning praise since the later Mughal period. Mumtaj Mahal is known to have expressed
appreciation for the woollen shawls made in this region. In the travel account of Alexander Gerard,
detailed description of the woollen products, dresses and ornaments in the trans- Himalayan
interiors of Himachal Pradesh is available.

The art of knitting was introduced by Mrs. Hyde, a Moravian missionary during the middle of 19th
century. The local women of the region are skilled at making woolen products. They are expert at
knitting woolen socks and gloves which are both durable and colorful. These designs are very
attractive as well as these gloves and socks save the people from extreme cold. The socks and
gloves are knitted using rough as well as soft wool and are not very expensive. The finished
products are characterized by colorful geometrical designs.

There is an age old tradition of gifting socks and gloves as symbol of love and respect to elders
during the festival of “Fagli (kunh)” and “Losar” in Lahaul and Spiti especially by women.
“Fagli(kunh)” and “ Losar” is a festival which is celebrated in all valley of Lahaul and Spiti
during the month of February every year. This festival is celebrated for five days. On fourth day of
festival, people visit to their near and dear ones and receive either socks or Gloves as a gift of the
festival. When a married women returns to her maternal home after ““Fagli(kunh)” and “ Losar”
to meet their parents home or relatives she has to give socks to each family member atleast to
men and in return brothers and other male relatives have to give her money as a return gift .That’s
why women in lahaul and spiti are always seen as engaging in knitting socks or gloves even while
carrying cow dung to fields or whenever their hands are free . Women having skill of making fine
socks will receive appreciation from all the people not only around her but by all villagers. In Lahal
and Spiti a man and woman became god sister and god brother women will gift brothers a pair of
socks which is symbol of their log lasting relationship as brother and sister.

The Lahaul and Spiti wool weaving craft includes hand knitted socks and gloves. The Lahauli
socks comprises of three parts:

i. Fer - The neck of the socks is called “fer” in lahauli dialect which includes “chug /chukich
(mouth of socks)”.
ii. Taraah - Taraah is the main body of the socks which includes “dashi (front part of
socks)” and “kub/kubshtri (the pointed front of the socks)”
iii. Thuri- The heel of the socks is called “Thuri”.

GI Journal No. 140 52 August 31, 2020

G) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no: 60

Lahauli Knitted Socks & Gloves is produced in entire District Lahaul & Spiti, which is a scheduled
tribal district. The district is a famous tourist destination as topographically it is located in Jaskar
range of Greater Himalayas. The region is better known as Cold Desert of Himachal Pradesh.

The district is drained by two famous rivers Chandra and Bhaga. The district is known for its knit
ship and serenity. District Lahaul & Spiti is situated at an altitude of 4,270 metres and spreads in
the area of 13,833 km2.

H) Proof of Origin (Historical records):

The historical references of wool weaving in Lahaul and Chamba region of Himachal Pradesh
have been quoted in many books. Author O.C. Handa in his book “Textiles, Costumes and
Ornaments of the western Himalaya” quotes the art of wool weaving in western Himalayas.

The historical references of wool weaving in the above book have been presented in the following
texts :-

“The earliest references about costumes that might have been in use in the region now forming
Western Himalayan tracts comes from the Rigveda. It states that "the region through which the
Ravi {Purushni} flows is noted for its washed or coloured woolen fabrics {shundhyavah). In the
Rigveda, the God Pushan has been addressed as a "weaver of garments" {vaso-vaya), because
of his connection with the designing of forms from the wool of sheep. Pushan i.e., the Nourisher
has been an early Vedic Solar God, who has been associated with the Bhaga (A tributary of River
Chandrabhaga in Lahaul Valley) the dispenser of tribal prosperity.

The association of Pushan with pastures, sheep and goats may give rise to the suggestion that
the vernacular term pasham for wool might have originated from Pushan. The word pasham or
pashmina are known to be of Persian origin, where the solar cult had anterior tradition. It may,
therefore, be suggested that this term was coined after Pushan—the god of pastoral nomadic
hordes of the Aryans in their native country in Central Asia long before they were to be seen in the
Indian subcontinent.

The region where Pushan had his abode, has been identified with the upper reaches of the Ravi
(Purushni). This would indicate that he was a popular cult deity of that region in the remote past,
and may suggest existence of some type of solar worship among the native communities there.
Archaeological evidences, of course not of that remote period, do indicate that the solar cult had
been very popular in a large area in the inner Himalayan valleys. A massive stone image of Sun at
Gum in the upper Ravi valley may be suggestive of the fact that the precursors of the present-day
Gaddis in the upper Ravi, and may be of the Bhaga valley as well, might have been the sun-
worshippers. It were those people, who were superseded by the immigrants from surrounding
places and from the Indian mainland. Although, the latter were ethnically and culturally different
people yet, they imbibed material and cultural traits of their predecessors in customs, costumes
and vocations. That is why we find not only the Scythian influence in their dress, but in vocational
pursuits also. It was that ancient solar cult which, with the advent of heterogeneous people from
the mainland, was overtaken by a queer form of Shiva cult among the Gaddis. From our above
discussion, it may be concluded that high quality woolen garments were manufactured in the
interiors of Ravi valley. The Himalayan region through which the Ravi flows, lies in the Gadderan
region of Chamba district, which has traditionally been a home of quality wool and wool products.
It can, therefore, be said with due certainty that the reference in the Rigveda points towards the
Gadderan region and surrounding area of Chamba in Himachal Pradesh.

GI Journal No. 140 53 August 31, 2020

 The Gazetteer of District Lahaul & Spiti, 1975, quotes about the wool spinning and wool weaving
in the region as:

Wool has played a very crucial role in the feudalistic economy of the princely state of the Western
Himalayan region bordering on Tibet since the very early days. The rulers of different kingdoms
and principalities of this region have been fighting each other to gain supremacy over the trade
imports of the central Asian and Western Tibetan commodities, among which the wool rated the
highest. The finest quality of wool has been available in the trans- Himalayan steppes, spread
over Central Asia, Ladakh, Spiti and other places in Tibet, from the wild species of trans-
Himalayan mountain sheep and goats known as Shapo, Argali, Bharal etc, to whom the nature
has gifted a coat of fine wool and fleece beneath the rough outer hair, to sustain them under the
severe arid and alpine conditions.

The Drokpa Shepherds, who roam about with their quadruped wealth over the steppes in search
of greener pastures, have been carefully picking up that fleece from the shrubs and rocks. They
have been bartering that fleece with the local traders for their necessities. Tibetan shepherd dogs
are also known to grow fine quality of fleece. It was probably that finest quality of fleece, called
asli tush and Pashmina, renowned for its soft silkiness and warmth, which have been used to
manufacture the finest quality of shawls in Kashmir, famed as ‘ring shawl’ of the mughal fame.

The second grade fleece, obtained from the under-belly of the domestic goats (locally called
chikkoos) and wild animals in Ladakh, Spiti and other parts of trans-Himalayan snow-desert,
which has provided major bulk of raw material for the wool-based industries in Kashmir, Kullu,
Bushahr and other centres of the cis Himalayan Indian Kingdome.

Spinning and Weaving

Wool spinning and weaving, and poolah (straw shoes) making is carried on almost in every
house. The isolation of area ensures survival of the ancient household activity of wool spinning
and weaving and poolah making. The wool and hair raised out of the flocks of sheep and goats,
maintained in almost all the household, is spun and woven into cloth. Goat hair is spun and woven
loosely into a course texture of about twenty-five centimetres wide, and is called thobi. When
sewn together this material provides serviceable carpets, bedding and strong bags for conveying
merchandise. Ropes are made from hair of goats and yak. Woolen cloth, of course and loosely
woven texture and narrow width, is twined out by almost every household. Spinning is done on
spindles and weaving on throw-shuttle looms.

Poolah are manufactured out of stalks of wheat, barley and sheelum (a type of grass). The stalks
are beaten up into fine fibres to be twisted by hands. Fibres thus obtained are then cut and
stitched into a shoe. The sole is made of sheep or goat skin. Poolahs are useful during winter on
account of their warmth and convenience of their grip on the slippery snow covered paths. Though
they wear out quickly they are still common throughout the district. The ideal winter months
provide enough time for the cottage industries like poolah making. This industry has not
undergone any substantial change since a long time in its technique. In order to mechanise the
process the National Extension service Block has purchased ban making, straw softening and
crushing machines.

New Industries
The old methods and implements employed in spinning and weaving are undergoing a gradual
change for the better. Wooden spindles have been replaced by spinning wheels bearing Rani,
Raja and Ambar trademarks. Even before this spinning wheel reached the valley, a wooden
paddle-driven spinning wheel, first designed by one Palmo of Malllang village about forty years
ago, started replacing the wooden spindles. Though extremely noisy, the spinning wheel was
crude forms of its modern counter-part. Despite the introduction of spinning wheels, the

GI Journal No. 140 54 August 31, 2020

 indigenous spindle, due to its negligible cost, continues to find favour with people. During the long
wintery months the female members of the family usually chat and sit around fire when spindles
and spinning wheels work ceaselessly. Since a family can hardly afford to purchase more than
one spinning wheel, the rest have to be contended with spindles. Besides, Deshkar and Merino
wool is of short fleece and difficult to be spun on improved wheel without expert skill, the old
spindles have to be constantly issued. It is along the biang wool, imported from Ladakh
(previously imported from Tibet also) which has a longer fleece and can be spun on the modern
spinning wheels.

The indigenous throw-shuttle looms locally called keercha, are time consuming and produce cloth
of narrow width and inferior weave and are, therefore, being gradually replaced by the improved
type of fly-shuttle looms. The first fly-shuttle loom was brought in the district in pattan valley some
thirty years ago. The throw-shuttle looms, however, are still in vogue with those who cannot afford
fly-shuttle looms. Spinning is completed in winters whereas weaving is taken up usually in
summers. The designing of yarn twisting machines be one Dola Ram of Rauling in 1965 marked
another development in the field of spinning and weaving industry. In an eight hour working day,
about four kilograms of yarn can be twisted on this machine in comparison to a more quarter kilo
with ordinary spindle. The machine is a little heavy and does not find favour with the people.
However, 1964-65 during 1964-65, the government purchased eight yarn twisting machines
costing Rs. 4,800 of which machines have been distributed to industrial cooperative societies at
Rowaling, Shansha and Gushal.

Until 1952 carding of wool was done by the Shipis or Lahaul or some people visiting from Kullu. It
was costly and slow process. Since 1952, ten water-driven carding mills nine in pattan valley and
one at keylong, have been established. These mills, though better suited for carding of cotton than
short fleece wool are, nevertheless, useful and the carding is cheaper, quicker and better than
that done by the Shipi carders. The first carding mill with and attached oil extracting unit was
established by Thakur Lal Chand of Phura.

The art of knitting was introduced by Mrs. Hyde, a Moravian Missionary during the middle of 19th
century. Consequently the local women have perfected themselves in the art of knitting,
particularly socks which are both durable and colourful. The visitor does make it a point to
purchase these specimens of local skill. The gara or zo (blacksmith) are skilled workers in iron
and turn out pipes, locks and keys, knives, hammers etc. They have now taken to the
manufacture of room heating oven introduced by the Moravian Mission. These ovens provide
suitable heating arrangements on hygienic lines.

For the promotion of wool weaving and spinning a government Wool Spinning and Weaving
Training Centre was opened in 1953 at Tandi with its two sub-centres at Shansha and Gemur.
The centre imparts training in shifted to Keylong. Later, the training centre subsequently was
shifted to Keylong. Later, the training centre was converted into training cum-production centre.
The ex-trainees, who wanted to work in their homes, are supplied wool and designs. They are
paid wages while the marketing of the goods is handled by the Industries Department through the
emporia situated at various stations. The spinning course is of six months duration and that of
weaving runs to one year. The trainees of these courses are given monthly stipends of twenty-five
and forty rupees respectively. The National Extension Service Blocks have popularised new tools
by providing 281 improved spinning wheels, 94 dozen hand carding brushes for wool and 45 fly
shuttle looms at subsidized rates.

The shortage of raw material owing to the limited number of sheep in the district, is proposed to
be overcome by purchasing wool from Gaddis at the end of the grazing season. Biang wool
imported from Ladakhis, on their way to Kullu is purchased in Lahaul. The development in the

GI Journal No. 140 55 August 31, 2020

 means of communication is likely to enable cheaper carriage of finished products. The installation
of electric machines for carding and finishing will radically improve the quality of product.

Mrs. Hyede, a Missionary, started a crafts school sometime in the middle of nineteenth centry
where she taught knitting to the girls and women. This produced highly satisfactory results and
continued to become popular. Even till today designs of socks etc. knitted by them are unique and
attractive.

I) Method of Production:

The first raw material is the wool which is obtained locally from Sheep breed in Lahaul and Spiti.
Generally the wool obtained from these is in different colours viz white, black, grey and brown.
Besides, Pashmina or Cashmere wool is also used by the locals of Lahaul & Spiti. The Pashmina
is of very high quality wool obtained from the goats grazing in high altitude pastures of Lahaul &
Spiti. As the local wool does not suffice the need of locals, it is also purchased from the traders
coming from Laddakh and Kashmir. The wool is used for floor covering and blankets. It is also
used for making Pattus and Dohrus.

Besides, Yak wool is also used, which is brown, grey and white in color. Once the wool is ready,
the double edged knitting needles are used for making the finished products. Different needles are
used for different designs. The needles have different numbers, the thickness of the finished
product depend on the needle of specific numbers. The lowest number needle gives the thickest
knit while the highest number gives the finest knit.

The needles used for knitting sweater are pointed towards one end. Needles used for knitting
sweater are of different size and numbers like- 0,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14 (0 no. knitting needle
gives the thickest whereas 14 no. needles give the finest knit).

Tools:
No special tool is required for knitting purpose, as knitting is done by the skilled artisans only by
using needles of different specification. However, the wool making process involves tools and
machines as described below under Wool Making.

The needles used for knitting gloves and socks are small in sizes when compared to the sweater
knitting needles. It is pointed on both ends. The numbers used for knitting socks and gloves are of
number – 10,11,12,13 (10 giving the thickest knit while 13 giving the finest knit). Generally, for the
purpose of knitting Lahauli Socks & Gloves, needle Number 11 and 12 are used.

Wool Making:
Carding Process:
The wool obtained from the local sheep of Lahaul is brought to the plant. The wool obtained is
coarse and rough. The wool is also obtained from the foreign breed the wool from local sheep
does not suffice the demand. Wool from an adult sheep is obtained twice a year in the months of
March- April and September-October respectively. On average a sheep produces about 1 – 1.5
Kg of wool every year.

The raw wool is made uniform using Kangroo (Wool combing device). Also machine for the
purpose are used for making the wool uniform. The uniform wool is fed into the carding machine
through the input slide from where the supply roller unit picks it up and passes it to the breast unit.
The supply unit helps in transferring the wool to the breast area while the breast area converts the
wool bunch into thread like fibres with the help of iron needles attached on the surface of these
cylinders. The wool then moves to the central roller system called the cylinder which consists of
several rollers. These rollers refine the process further and simultaneously also remove the dirt.

GI Journal No. 140 56 August 31, 2020

 Traditionally, the wool for knitting is obtained from sheep breed in Lahaul & Spiti. In modern times,
following wools are used which is easily available in market:-

1. Yak wool – Yak wool is brown, grey and white in colour. Many hand spinners are afraid of
Yak wool’s short staple length which is approximately one inch long. Yak wool has great
crimp and is not slippery, thus is quite easy to spin. It does make a terrific lofty, woollen spun
yarn.
2. Angora wool: - This wool is obtained from the Angora rabbit. It is known for its softness and
thin fibres. It is much warmer and lighter. This wool can be dyed for a colourful yarn.
3. Cashmere: - This is a synthetic yarn. It is lightweight and durable. Unlike natural fibres which
are spun, the acrylic polymer is twisted into long lengths of thread which makes up the yarn.
4. Nylone, Brylone:- These are also synthetic yarn.

Besides, Pashmina or Cashmere wool is also used by the locals of Lahaul and Spiti. The
Pashmina is of very high quality wool obtained from the goats grazing in high altitude pastures of
Lahaul and Spiti.

Spinning process:
After the carding process is over, the fibres of the wool ball are converted into threads through
spinning. The process is known as Katai. Spinning could be done manually in two ways-

Using Takli( Spindle): It is the oldest traditional method, it consists of two parts a dandi and
chakti. Dandi is a long wooden piece which varies from height of 4 to 6 inches. It is pointed on
both the ends and it has a round piece of wood attached to it on one end and is called ‘Chakti’.
Right hand is used to hold the takli, while the fibres from wool ball ( which came after carding) is
put on the ‘dandi’ and using the right hand the ‘takli’ is rotated in clockwise direction. The wool is
kept in the left hand which is stretched upward. After rotating the ‘takli’, the threads get collecting
on the ‘chakti’. The ‘takli’ is placed on the wooden bowl called as ‘taknosh’. The thread from the
wool is also collected using the Charkha technique.

The next step is colouring the wool through dyeing: It can be coloured both in natural and artificial
colors.

To dye sheep wool in colors following plants are traditionally used which are found in heights of
cold desert area:-

Name of color Natural plant name in manchad Botanical Name

dialect of lahaul and spiti
Red Color Khomig Arnebia Euchroma (Dried )
Green Color Khruhn / Bekhol Lichen
Yellow Color Archo Rherium Webbianum

Wool can be dyed at three levels:

1. Dyeing of wool
2. Dyeing of thread
3. Dyeing of cloth

Dyeing of wool is done after it has been washed and carding has been done. When wool is dyed
after the process of spinning, it is referred as dying of thread and when wool is dyed after the
process of looming it is referred to as dyeing of cloth.

GI Journal No. 140 57 August 31, 2020

 After dyeing, the next step is to make ‘gola’, a round ball of wool out of ‘lacha’. The artisans
squat and wrap the wool round their knees and they make a ‘gola’ out of it. They have the gola in
their right hand and they move it in clockwise direction to complete the ‘gola’ out of the ‘lacha’.
Then a typical design is finalized to be applied on the product.

Knitting:
Once the design is finalized, pair of needles is used for the knitting work. The knitting is carried
out in the general way and this is completed with Lahauli patterns or designs. For doing a flat
knitting two needles are required while for circular knitting four/five needles are required. After
completing the knitting work, the finished product is ready for use.

J) Uniqueness:

The socks and gloves knit in Lahaul and Spiti is made of indigenous wool sheared from local
sheep. The Lahauli sokcs and gloves unique craft, only found in tribal district Lahaul & Spiti of
Himachal Pradesh, is developed traditionally by the skilled artisans of the Lahaul & Spiti valley
and has been passed over to next generations. A Lahauli sock knit in parts, using four/five double
pointed needles. First the cuff is knit, second the leg, and at last the heel. The upper part of the
foot is knit using eight colors into a traditional eye catching design called “Dashi” which comprises
of pattern made of 7 to 8 motifs. Each dashi is laid out in 4 to 5 rows using either of the motifs in
different colors. Once the front portion with dashi is ready, the sole is built and the two are joined
together up till the tip of the toe. The sock is then carefully sealed with ties or knots running
inwards. Some motifs are used both in the heel and dashi, while some exclusively on the dashi.

The dashi on the socks and gloves in Lahaul and Spiti have unique characteristic of its own thus
making the craft of knitting different from local cultural craft forms elsewhere in the Himalayas.
This uniqueness has to prevail and to be preserved. The names of a few motifs vary valley wise
with Lahaul but they are essentially the same in design.

Names of unique motifs in Tinan language spoken in Tinan valley of Lahaul:

1. Bumchang
2. Chagri
3. Lari
4. Kyok
5. Zildan
6. Tintswa
7. Nyungrul
8. Tswatin

Names of Motifs in Manchad language spoken in Pattan valley of Lahaul:

1. Gyaanag Chagril
2. Khoglanu
3. Kuku
4. Tig tu Pakh
5. Pyau Konza
6. Udra
7. Thingma
8. Khretsod
9. Roltsod
10. Dheske

GI Journal No. 140 58 August 31, 2020

 Few other Motif name is in local dialect of Lahaul and Spiti:

1. Shrumu Dhehre/Tapi
2. Kaliu Dashi
3. Kuru Pakh
4. Drilden
5. Thigma
6. Bulbuchashan
7. Pyakonza
8. Fredkyo

K) Inspection Body:

In order to deal with GI related issues for Lahauli knitted Socks &Gloves following inspection body
will be constituted:

1. The Deputy Commissioner or his representative, Lahaul & Spiti at Keylong, Distt. Lahaul &
Spiti.
2. Assistant Registrar or his representative, Cooperative Society, Distt. Lahaul & Spiti.
3. Managing Director or his representative, State Handicraft and Handloom Corporation, Shimla,
Distt. Shimla.
4. Managing Director or his representative, HIMBUNKAR, Bhuntar, Distt. Kullu.
5. One expert in knitting design/ Lahauli crafts.
6. Joint Member Secretary, HIMCOSTE or his representative

L) Others:

A fair at Patseo is held on the right bank of the Bhaga river, on a large plain where stone shekters
are built. Here the wool, salt and borax are unloaded, the sheep shorn and barley, wheat, pohee
or green tea, metals, cloth, sugar, tobacco and other products are exchanged. The trade port has
now been moved to Keylong from Sultanpur and trade is more fully recorded. Lahaulas take their
wool allover Kulu and other hilly areas and make comfortable incomes by their winter trading. The
Sarajis usually pay for their wool in May, at Banjar fair; the Kullu people pay cash down or at the
Pipaljatra fair at Kulu in April. There is trade with Spiti. There are four trade routes from Spiti, the
Prangla connecting with Ladakh, the Spiti river leading to Bushahr, and the Kunzum Pass to
Lahaul, Kulu and Ladakh. The only route open all the year round is by the Spiti river, the Bhaba
Pass is usually open but is high. The Parangla is very cold in winter and Kunzum is blolcked by
snow.

GI Journal No. 140 59 August 31, 2020

GI Journal No. 140 60 August 31, 2020
 Advertised under Rule 41 (1) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Rules,
2002 in the Geographical Indications Journal 140 dated August 31, 2020

G.I. APPLICATION NUMBER – 675

Application Date: 30-10-2019

Application is made by Maramalai Planters Association at 824/ L, Vivekanandan Street, K. P. Road,

District: Nagercoil – 629 001, India and Blackrock Hill Planters Association, No.6, Perumal Street,
Ramavarmapuram, K.P. Road, Nagercoil 629001, India for Registration in Part A of the Register of
Kanniyakumari Cloves under Application No. 675 in respect of Cloves falling in Class – 30 is hereby
advertised as accepted under Sub-section (1) of Section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods
(Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

A) Name of the Applicant : Maramalai Planters Association

&
Blackrock Hill Planters Association

B) Address : Maramalai Planters Association,

824/ L, Vivekanandan Street, K. P. Road,
District: Nagercoil – 629 001, India
&
Blackrock Hill Planters Association,
No.6, Perumal Street, Ramavarmapuram,
K.P. Road, Nagercoil 629001, India.

C) Name of the Geographical Indication :

KANNIYAKUMARI CLOVE

D) Types of Good : Class 30 - Cloves

E) Specification:

Kanniyakumari Clove are of a reddish brown to blackish brown colour with a strong aromatic
odour free from off flavor and mustiness. It shall be free from mould, living and dead insects,
insect fragments and rodent contamination. It shall be free from added colouring matter.

Kanniyakumari Clove – Characteristics:

Particulars Grade 1 Grade 2 Grade 3
Variety Hand Picked, Hand Picked, Hand Picked,
Sun Dried Sun Dried Sun Dried
Harvest Current Year Current Year Current Year
Colour Reddish Brown Reddish Brown Reddish Brown
Origin Nagercoil Nagercoil Nagercoil
Moisture <11% <12% <13%
Stems <1% <1% <1%
Baby Cloves <1% <3% <5%

GI Journal No. 140 61 August 31, 2020

 Headless Clove <12% <5% <10%
Odd Matter <0.5% <1% <1%
Volatile Oil 18% 17% 17%
Packing 50kg Jute Bags 50kg Jute Bags 50kg Jute Bags
Smell Spicy Strong Spicy Strong Spicy Strong
Odour Odour Odour

Kanniyakumari Clove is indicative of cloves produced in the Kanniyakumari District of Tamil Nadu
that demonstrates the unique qualities of the cloves such as the high concentration of volatile oil
content and aroma. Kanniyakumari Clove is commercially produced in Maramalai, Karumparai
and Vellimalai areas of Western Ghats in Kanyakumari District. These are above the Veerapuli
Reserve Forests and Mahendragiri respectively and are at an elevation of 400M – 900M above
sea level.

Chemical Properties of Kanniyakumari Clove bud oil:

Particulars Kanniyakumari
Volatile Oil% 21
Eugenol% 81.57
Eugenol Acetate% 1.097

Caryophyllene % 9.1088
Gallic Acid % 3.3086

The botanical name of Clove is Syzygium Aromaticum. Clove belongs to genus Syzgium and the
family Myrtaceae. The etymology is derived the French word “CLOU” / Lain word “CLAVUS” which
mean nail, as the buds resemble irregular nails.

Clove is one of the richest source of phenolic compounds such as Eugenol, Eugenol Acetate and
Gallic Acid. It predominantly has pharmaceutical, cosmetic and agricultural applications.

Botanical specification / Scientific Classification of Kanniyakumari Clove:

Kingdom: Plantae
Phylum: Tracheophyta
Division: Angiosperm
Class: Eudicots
Order: Myrtales
Family: Myrtaceae
Genus: Syzygium
Species: S. aromaticum
Botanical name: Syzygium Aromaticum / Caryophyllus aromaticus

Name in Indian languages:

Sanskrit: Bhadrasriya, Devakusuma, Karampu, Lavanga, Lavangaka
Hindi: Laung
Malayalam: Grampu, Karayampu
Kannada: Lavanga
Tamil: Lavangam, Kiraambu
Telugu: Lavangalu
Marathi: Luvang
Bengali: Lawang
Gujarati: Lavang`

GI Journal No. 140 62 August 31, 2020

 F) Description:

Cloves are the aromatic flower buds of the tree Syzygium Aromaticum in the family Myrtaceae.
The clove tree is an evergreen that grows up to 8-12 meters tall, with large leaves and crimson
flowers grouped in terminal clusters. This spice gets its name from the French word “CLOU” which
means nail. Cloves are used in the cuisines of Asia, Africa and the Mediterranean. The non-
culinary uses of cloves include pharmaceuticals, insect repellents, aromatics etc. the antimicrobial
and antioxidant activity of clove is much higher than other spices. Cloves are valued for the aroma
and medicinal properties of their essential oils, primarily Eugenol, which forms 70%-90% of the
oils.

Kanniyakumari Clove is indicative of cloves produced in the Kanniyakumari District of Tamil Nadu
that demonstrates the unique qualities of the cloves such as the high concentration of volatile oil
content and aroma. Kanniyakumari Clove are commercially produced in Maramalai, Karumparai
and Vellimalai areas of Western Ghats in Kanyakumari District. These are above the Veerapuli
Reserve Forests and Mahendragiri respectively.

Tamil Nadu holds a significant position in the spice sector of India, with abundant production of
spices across the South-Eastern region of the country. The state, with ample production of Cloves
in the Kanyakumari district, is the largest producer of Clove in the country, besides producing
sizeable quantities Chillies, Turmeric, Tamarind, Coriander, Cardamom, Black Pepper, Curry
leaves etc. Clove was introduced to India around 1800 AD by the East India Company in its spice
garden in Courtallam, Tamil Nadu.

The clove of commerce is its dried unopened flower buds. Clove is a medium-sized tree, which
grows to a height of 10–20 m that can live up to 100 years or more. The more specific the
description of the GI is as below:

Biological Source: Dried flower buds of Syzygium Aromaticum

Tree: Evergreen, Medium Size, grows to a height of 10–20 meters height and can live up to 100
years or more.

Stem: The trunk is up to 30cm in diameter and composed of very hard wood. It often forks near
the base into two or three main erect branches, a habit which is sometimes simulated by planting
two or three seedlings close together.

Bark: Grey in colour

Flowers: The inflorescence is a terminal, corymbose, trichotomous panicle, shortly pedunculate

and branched from the base. Flowers are hermaphrodite, small and crimson coloured and occur
in numerous groups of terminal clusters. Each peduncle carries 3 or 4 stalked flowers at the end
and each flower has a fleshy hypanthium surrounded by sepals. The four calyx lobes are fleshy,
triangular, slightly incurved. The four petals are imbricate, tinged red, rounded. The stamens are
numerous, appearing grouped in four masses. The anthers are pale-yellow, ovate; opening
longitudinally with pale brown colour, the style is very stout, swollen at the base, pale green and
gland-dotted.

Leaves: They are simple, opposite, coriaceous, extipulate, glabrous and aromatic. The petiole is
slender 2-3 cm long, somewhat swollen and pinkish at the base and with the leaf blade partly
decurrent upon it in the upper portion. The lamina is lanceolate or narrowly elliptical or obovate,
the apex is shortly or broadly bluntly acuminate and the base is cuneate.

GI Journal No. 140 63 August 31, 2020

 Bud: ½ to ¾ of an inch in length. Pale hue gradually becomes green and then bright red when
they are ready for harvesting.

Fruit: Known as "mother of cloves" is about 2.5 cm long. They are oblong, fleshy, drupes, usually
shortly tapering at each end reddish purple in color. They are surmounted by the four enlarged
fleshy calyx lobes. There is a thin fleshy pericarp about 2-3 mm thick.
Harvesting time: Clove trees flower from fourth year under good management conditions.
Harvesting starts in December /January and usually begins in lower altitudes gradually
progressing towards the higher altitudes where it goes on till around March/April.

Yield (annual): From a tree 7 to 10 kgs cloves can be collected.

Kanniyakumari Clove consists of 19-21% of volatile oil, which gives the characteristic odour and
flavour to it.

The main component of Clove bud oil is Eugenol (60-90%) and the other components are
Acetyleugenol (3%), Sesquiterpenes (α-Caryophyllene and β-Caryophyllene), Gallic Acid, Vanillin,
Furfural. Flavanoids, Lipids, Carbohydrates and Vitamins are also present.

Other constituents like tannins, gums, resins and glucoside sterols are also present in the bud.

Medicinal and Pharmacological Uses

India’s traditional Ayurveda healers have used cloves since ancient times to treat respiratory and
digestive ailments. Like many culinary spices, cloves help relax the smooth muscle lining of the
digestive tract and eating cloves is said to be aphrodisiac.

Tea made from clove bud (other herbs/spices can be used or added to cloves, such as allspice,
bay, cinnamon and marjoram) has been used to relieve bronchitis, asthma, coughs, a tendency to
infection, tuberculosis, altitude sickness, nervous stomach, nausea, diarrhoea, flatulence,
indigestion, dyspepsia and gastroenteritis.

Culinary Use: The main use of clove in whole or ground form is for domestic culinary purposes
and as a flavouring agent in the food industry for their intense flavor.

Clove and clove bud oil can be used as an antibacterial, antifungal and antiseptic agent, this
means that they can be used as a food preservative, hence improving shelf-life of foods.
Aromatherapy: Clove oil is widely used as a blend with other oils for its therapeutic value. The oil
is considered stimulating, revitalizing and purifying and hence is used in aromatherapy.

Medicinal Use: The tradition of using cloves in remedies goes back thousand of years. Clove oil
has been used by traditional folk healers as well as by modern pharmacists and dentists in
alleviating the symptoms associated with toothache and dental decay.

Clove herbal tea prepared by boiling the dried clove buds in water has been used to cure nausea,
aid digestion, cure stomach disorders and as pain relief.

Clove is used in personal hygiene products such as toothpastes, mouthwash for its antibacterial
properties.

Perfumery Use: The fragrance and flavour of clove are used as a middle note because of its
warm, sweet and aromatic qualities. It is vital to carnation and floral fragrances, and when blended
with lavender renders the iconic rondeletia perfume accord.

GI Journal No. 140 64 August 31, 2020

 It is a particularly popular ingredient in spicy, floral, woody and oriental fragrances. It also blends
well with essential oils in the citrus and floral families. They are also vital ingredients added to
incense and as an ant repellent.

Antibacterial /Antifungal Use: Clove oil possesses inhibitory activity against food pathogens.
The essential oil of clove showed antimicrobial activity even after treatment at 100 degree C for 30
minute. It appears that the high temperature does not affect the activity of these essential oils.

The strong antifungal activity of clove oil is due to its high phenolic content which vaporizes easily

Antioxidant Use: Clove has been shown to possess strong antioxidant properties. Antioxidant
content varies depending on the type of clove product. Eugenol and Eugenyl Acetate have been
identified as the major antioxidants. The antioxidant activity of eugenol and Eugenyl Acetate was
found to be comparable to that of the natural antioxidant vitamin E.

The antioxidative activities of clove buds are due in part to the contributions of aroma chemicals
such as Eugenol and Eugenyl Acetate. Ingestion of these compounds may help to prevent in vivo
oxidative damage, such as lipid peroxidation which is associated with many diseases, including
cancer, arteriosclerosis, diabetes and immune deficiency.

Biopesticides: Clove oil and its components such as eugenol, methyl eugenol and iso-eugenol
showed potent antibacterial and antifungal activities. Clove oil with its major compound eugenol
has been shown to inhibit certain bacteria causing stem rot disease. Clove oil also showed
fungicidal activity against several plant pathogenic fungi.

In combination with other essential oils, formulae containing clove and citronellal oils (5 %) could
also kill dry-wood termite. Eugenol has also been shown to be effective against several insects
and termites comparable to the other botanical pesticides. Other clove components such as
Methyl Eugenol have been used in insect traps and lure products to attract certain fruit flies.

Although clove oil and its major compound eugenol shows bactericidal and fungicidal properties,
the oil has been reported to be safer than the active ingredients of several other botanical
insecticides.

G) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no: 70

The area of production of Kanniyakumari Cloves is Maramalai, Karumparai and Vellimalai areas
of the Western Ghats in Kanyakumari District. These areas are above the Veerapuli Reserve
Forests and Mahendragiri respectively.

H) Proof of Origin (Historical records):

Cloves were first introduced by the East India Company in the 1800’s in their Garden in
Coutrallam in Tamil Nadu. The same was subsequently commercially produced in Maramalai,
Karumparai and Vellapuli Reserve Forests and Mahendragiri respectively.

In 1605 the Dutch found their way to the Moluccas and dipped their hand into the spice trade. The
Dutch destroyed clove trees in many areas in order to secure a monopoly in its trade.

By the 18th Century cloves were being grown in other places including Zanzibar, Madagascar,
Brazil, Mauritius, Tanzania, Malaysia. India among other places. The origin and usage of
'Kanniyakumari' cloves date to the 1800's when the East India Company first introduced it in India
in their spice garden in Coutrallam in Tamil Nadu.

GI Journal No. 140 65 August 31, 2020

 It gained commercial production in Maramalai, Karumparai and Vellimalai areas of Western Ghats
in Kanniyakumari District. These are currently above the Veerapuli Reserve Forests and
Mahendragiri respectively. This region produces nearly 80% of the total production of cloves in
India

I) Method of Production:

The calendar of production usually starts in December with preliminary preparations done towards
clearing the base of the trees, maintenance of labour quarters, ensuring availability of labour,
required materials such as rope, sacks etc .Harvesting starts in December /January at and usually
begins in lower altitudes gradually progressing towards the higher altitudes where it goes on till
about March / April. Subsequently the farm maintenance activities start which coincides with the
South West Monsoon which starts in June. Activities during this period include planting of new
areas, application of farmyard and other organic manure etc. Once the North East monsoon
starts, a second round of manure application, treatment towards fungal diseases if any, removal of
weeds etc are done in preparation for the subsequent harvest.

Tree begins to yield 7-8 years after planting' Stage of harvest of flower buds determines the
quality of the final dried product. Buds are harvested when base of calyx turns from green to pink
in colour. Buds are removed from the stem by holding the cluster in one hand and pressing it
against the palm of the other with a slight twisting movement.

The clove buds and stems are piled separately for drying.

Buds are then sorted to remove over ripe cloves and fallen flower

Drying is done immediately after the buds are separated from the clusters. This is done to avoid
fermentation and avoid having a white shrivelled appearance for the dry clove.

The cloves are dried in the traditional method of exposing them to the Sun in mats.

The green buds are spread out in a thin layer on the drying floor and are raked time to time to
ensure even drying, development of a uniform colour and avoiding mould formation.

In sunny weather drying in completed in 3-4 days giving a bright coloured dried spice of attractive
appearance.

During drying, cloves loses about two third of their fresh green weight. When properly dried it will
tum bright brown and does not bend when pressed.

The dried cloves are sorted to remove mother cloves, headless cloves and khoker cloves, bagged
and stored in a dry place.

The stem after separation of buds is dried in a similar manner to spice, without allowing mould
formation.

The traditional practices adopted and Know-how:

Given that Cloves are a Tree Spice, they are harvested using traditional manual practices. The
flower buds are harvested before they open up and this is usually in a period of 4-6 weeks for
each plantation, where traditional knowledge is the basis for identification of the time to start
harvest. The trees are about 4 to 5 rneters high and need a careful and skilful way of climbing and
plucking the clove stems with the flower buds, which are spread all over the tree. The stems have

GI Journal No. 140 66 August 31, 2020

 to be removed in a way that does not damage the branches that hold them to ensure that the tree
is not overly damaged and will continue to provide yield in the subsequent years. Ladders are not
a very effective way of reaching out to all the branches. Hence rope based stilts are temporarily
created and people skilfully use these stilts in a recursive manner starting from the top of the tree,
to harvest all the clove buds in a tree.

Once the stems with the buds are harvested, the buds are removed from the stem in preparation
for drying, by holding the cluster in one hand and pressing it against the palm of the other with a
slight twisting movement which is a task that is performed by highly skilful labour to ensure
minimum damage to the flower buds and extraction of all portions of the stems.

The clove buds and stems are piled separately for drying. Buds are sorted to remove over rips
cloves and fallen flowers. Drying is done immediately after the buds are separated from the
clusters. This is done to avoid fermentation and avoid having awhite shrivelled appearance for the
dry clove.

The cloves are dried in the traditional method of exposing them to the Sun in mats. The green
buds are spread out in a thin layer on the drying floor and are raked time to time to ensure even
drying, development of a uniform colour and avoiding mould formation. ln sunny weather drying in
completed in 3-4 days giving a bright coloured dried spice of attractive appearance.

During drying, cloves lose about two third of their fresh green weight. When properly dried it will
tum bright brown and does not bend when pressed. The dried cloves are sorted to remove mother
cloves, headless cloves and khoker cloves, bagged and stored in a dry place. About 12000 dry
cloves weigh 1Kg.

The dried cloves are stored in a dry place in gunny bags and can be stored for up to 2 years
without losing the quality and essential oils.

The stem after separation of buds is dried in a similar manner to spice, without allowing mould
formation

J) Uniqueness:

The Kanniyakumari Cloves, exhibit a higher percentage of essential oils in the range of 19-2l%.
Increase in the concentration by weight of the volatile oil increases the content of Eugenol and
Eugenol Acetate, which gives the aroma and flavour to the clove, and thus the quality of the clove.
Normally, the dried clove buds yield concentrations up to l8% of volatile oils, which contains up to
89% eugenol and 5-15% eugenol acetate. Clove buds from India contain12.9- 18.5 % of volatile
oil. The users of clove (bud oil) from various industries, including perfumery, traditional medicines
like Ayurveda, prefer Kanniyakumari cloves for their high percentage by weight of volatile oil and
higher content of Eugenol.

The Cloves produced in the Maramalai, Karumparai and Vellimalai areas of Kanniyakumari
District of Tamil Nadu has increased concentration of essential oils by weight in the clove, which is
linked to the environment/geographical area where the Cloves are cultivated.

Impact of Environment:
Soil in the geographical area has a high humus content and pH range from 4.0 to 5.6. The area
which is at an elevation of 700m above MSL, has a warm and humid climate with distributed
annual rainfall of150 to 250 cm and mean temperature range of 20-35 degrees C. We submit that
the soil conditions, temperature of the area, humidity, altitude and rainfall contribute to the colour,
shape and dimension of clove. As the drying happens at high Altitudes and at a temperature

GI Journal No. 140 67 August 31, 2020

 range of 20-35 degree Celsius, it results in limited loss of essential oils. Drying in that environment
results in the higher concentration by weight of the essential oils, which makes Kanniyakumari
Cloves a preferred choice in Ayurvedic preparations and perfumery
Linkage
Maramalai, Karumparai and Vellimalai areas of Western Ghats in Kanyakumari District are
situated in the middle of reserve forests and have a typical soil PH between 4.5 and 5. 5. The
region is approximately 4 -5 Kms from the seashore and hence has the adequate humidity coming
from the sea breeze.

They are situated in the only region where both the South West monsoon and North east
monsoon bring rains thus ensuring a distributed rainfall and an aggregate rainfall exceeding
200cm. Being a hilly tract their elevation varies between 750m and 900m and this also ensures
moderate temperatures.

All these features ascertain that the growth of trees are optimal and ensuring the required colour,
shape and dimension of clove.

Moreover, the cloves are harvested by hand ensuring that they are at the right stage for harvest.
The drying of cloves at the farm ensures that they are dried immediately, reducing fermentation
and mould formation.

The temperatures at the altitude of 700 to 900 m ensure that there is sufficient drying of the clove
but optimal retention of the essential components such as eugenol and eugenol acetate.

We submit that the soil conditions, temperature of the area, humidity, altitude and rainfall
contribute to the colour, shape and dimension of clove. As the drying happens at Altitudes 750m
and above at a temperature range of 20-35 degrees Celsius, it results in limited loss of essential
oils and increases the concertation of essential oils by weight in the clove. Drying in that
environment results in the higher concentration by weight of the essential oils.

Human Skill:
Given that Cloves are a Tree Spice, they are harvested using traditional manual practices. The
flower buds are harvested before they open up and this is usually in a period of 4-6 weeks for
each plantation, where traditional knowledge is the basis for identification of the time to start
harvest. The trees are about 4 to 5 rneters high and need a careful and skilful way of climbing and
plucking the clove stems with the flower buds, which are spread all over the tree. The stems have
to be removed in a way that does not damage the branches that hold them to ensure that the tree
is not overly damaged and will continue to provide yield in the subsequent years. Ladders are not
a very effective way of reaching out to all the branches. Hence rope based stilts are temporarily
created and people skilfully use these stilts in a recursive manner starting from the top of the tree,
to harvest all the clove buds in a tree.

Once the stems with the buds are harvested, the buds are removed from the stem in preparation
for drying, by holding the cluster in one hand and pressing it against the palm of the other with a
slight twisting movement which is a task that is performed by highly skilful labour to ensure
minimum damage to the flower buds and extraction of all portions of the stems.

The cloves are dried in the traditional method of exposing them to the Sun in mats. The green
buds are spread out in a thin layer on the drying floor and are raked time to time to ensure even
drying, development of a uniform colour and avoiding mould formation. ln sunny weather drying in
completed in 3-4 days giving a bright coloured dried spice of attractive appearance.

GI Journal No. 140 68 August 31, 2020

 K) Inspection Body:

Apart from the internal watch dog mechanism set up by the Producers, the District Collector of
Kanniyakumari District has constituted an Inspection Committee that acts as an Independent
Neutral Agency to maintain the quality of the GI post its registration and also regulate the use of
Geographical Indication in the defined territory.

This Inspection committee comprises of the following Members:

1. Deputy Director of Horticulture Nagercoil, as the Chairman;

2. Designated Officer of Tamil Nadu Food Safety department Nagercoil
3. Assistant Director of Agriculture (Information and Quality Control)' Nagercoil,
4. One Representative from Maramalai Planters Association;
5. One Representative from Blackrock Hill Planters Association
6. One Representative each from the GI producing Area i.e., Maramalai, Karumparai and
Vellimalai areas of Kanniyakumari

L) Others:

The importance of recognizing Kanniyakumari Clove its relevance in commerce and the need for
promoting clove cultivation in Kanniyakumari District of Tamil Nadu have been actively discussed,
and continues to be discussed in various forums. The Spices Board has recognized that
Kanniyakumari Cloves account for 90% of the Clove cultivation in India and the need for setting
an office of the Board in Kanniyakumari District for the development and of clove industry in the
district. The Board has organized a Buyer Seller Meet and Open house for spices at Nagercoil in
Kanyakumari District on July 10, 2019, where the focus was on Cloves, Nutmeg and Black pepper
grown in the District.

The 80th Report of Parliamentary Standing Committee on Commerce presented on 15th

December, 2006 also acknowledges that more than 90% of cloves in the country is produced in
the Kanyakumari district of Tamil Nadu. According to the report, the annual production of cloves in
India is about 2500 tonnes, as against the country’s requirement of about 5000 tonnes. The
Committee recommends that the Government should act swiftly to prevent the fall in the prices of
indigenous cloves, as the farmers may be forced to abandon clove cultivation, forcing the country
to become totally dependent on imports. The Committee also opined that the Government should
prepare and implement an action plan to increase productivity of cloves, improve its export and to
create a win - win situation for the Government as well as the local farmers of cloves.

GI Journal No. 140 69 August 31, 2020

GI Journal No. 140 70 August 31, 2020
 General Information

What is a Geographical Indication?

 It is an indication,
 It is used to identify agricultural, natural, or manufactured goods originating in the said area,
 It originates from a definite territory in India,
 It should have a special quality or characteristics unique to the geographical indication.

Examples of possible Geographical Indications in India:

Some of the examples of Geographical Indications in India include Basmati Rice, Darjeeling Tea,
Kancheepuram silk saree, Alphonso Mango, Nagpur Orange, Kolhapuri Chappal, Bikaneri Bhujia etc.

What are the bebefits of registration of Geographical Indications?

 It confers legal protection to Geographical Indications in India,
 It prevents unauthorized use of a registered Geographical Indication by others.
 It boosts exports of Indian Geographical indications by providing legal Protection.
 It promotes economic Prosperity of Producers.
 It enables seeking legal protection in other WTO member countries.

Who can apply for the registration of a Geographical Indication?

Any association of persons, producers, organization or authority established by or under the law can apply.
The applicant must represent the interest of the producers.
The application should be in writing in the prescribed form.
The application should be addressed to the Registrar of Geographical Indications along with prescribed fee.

Who is the Registered Proprietor of a Geographical Indication?

Any association of persons, producers, organization or authority established by or under the law can be a
registered proprietor. There name should be entered in the Register of Geographical Indications as
registered proprietor for the Geographical Indication applied for.

Who is an authorized user?

A producer of goods can apply for registration as an authorized user, with respect to a registered
Geographical Indication. He should apply in writing in the prescribed form alongwith prescribed fee.

Who is a producer in relation to a Geographical Indication?

A producer is a person dealing with three categories of goods
 Agricultural Goods including the production, processing, trading or dealing.
 Natural Goods including exploiting, trading or dealing.
 Handicrafts or industrial goods including making, manufacturing, trading or dealing.

Is registration of a Geographical Indication compulsory?

While registration of Geographical indication is not compulsory, it offers better legal protection for action for
infringement.

What are the advantages of registering?

 Registration affords better legal protection to facilitate an action for infringement.

GI Journal No. 140 71 August 31, 2020

  The registered proprietor and authorized users can initiate infringement actions.
 The authorized users can exercise right to use the Geographical indication.

Who can use the registered Geographical Indication?

Only an authorized user has the exclusive rights to use the Geographical indication in relation to goods in
respect of which it is registered.

How long is the registration of Geographical Indication valid? Can it be renewed?

The registration of a Geographical Indication is for a period of ten years.
Yes, renewal is possible for further periods of 10 years each.
If a registered Geographical Indications is not renewed, it is liable to be removed from the register.

When a Registered Geographical Indication is said to be infringed?

 When unauthorized use indicates or suggests that such goods originate in a geographical area
other than the true place of origin of such goods in a manner which misleads the public as to their
geographical origins.
 When use of Geographical Indication results in unfair competition including passing off in respect
of registered Geographical indication.
 When the use of another Geographical Indication results in a false representation to the public that
goods originate in a territory in respect of which a Geographical Indication relates.

Who can initiate an infringement action?

The registered proprietor or authorized users of a registered Geographical indication can initiate an
infringement action.

Can a registered Geographical Indication be assigned, transmitted etc?

No, A Geographical Indication is a public property belonging to the producers of the concerned goods. It
shall not be the subject matter of assignment, transmission, licensing, pledge, mortgage or such other
agreement. However, when an authorized user dies, his right devolves on his successor in title.

Can a registered Geographical Indication or authorized user be removed from the register?
Yes, The Appellate Board or the Registrar of Geographical Indication has the power to remove the
Geographical Indication or authorized user from the register. The aggrieved person can file an appeal
within three months from the date of communication of the order.

How a Geographical Indication differs from a trade mark?

A trade mark is a sign which is used in the course of trade and it distinguishes good or services of one
enterprise from those of other enterprises. Whereas a Geographical Indication is used to identify goods
having special Characteristics originating from a definite geographical territory.

GI Journal No. 140 72 August 31, 2020

 THE REGISTRATION PROCESS

In December 1999, Parliament passed the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection)
Act 1999. This Act seeks to provide for the registration and protection of Geographical Indications relating
to goods in India. This Act is administered by the Controller General of Patents, Designs and Trade Marks,
who is the Registrar of Geographical Indications. The Geographical Indications Registry is located at
Chennai.

The Registrar of Geographical Indication is divided into two parts. Part ’A’ consists of particulars relating to
registered Geographical indications and Part ‘B’ consists of particulars of the registered authorized users.
The registration process is similar to both for registration of geographical indication and an authorized user
which is illustrated below:

Filing an Application 

Examination  Objection  Opportunity  Refused 

for Hearing  

Acceptance 

Advertisement of  Opposition,      Allowed or  Appeal to 

Application in GI Journal  If any refused  IPAB

Application 
allowed

Entry in GI Register  Particulars of Registered GI entered in 
Part A of the Register

Particulars of Registered AU GI entered in 
Part B of the Register  
Registration Certificate 
issued 

GI Journal No. 140 73 August 31, 2020