Application

This workshop manual applies to Batavus VA and HS 50

moped with Laura engine M 48.

Foreword
This manual is meant in the first place to assist those,
who have to maintain and repair these mopeds, to carry
out their work in an expert and time saving manner and
to make them familiar with them.

Undoubtedly some problems will arise in practice, which

have not dealt with in this manual.
In case you might not be able to overcome them, our
Service Department is fully at your disposal to assist you
in every possible way.

Index
Technical data engine page 2
Technical data frame page 2
Tools page 3
Cylinder and cylinderhead page 4
Piston page 5
Clutch page 6- 7
Ignition page 8- 9
Carburettor and Intake silencer page 10-11
Reed valve page 12
Crankcase and seals page 13
Crankshaft and bearings page 14
Dirt shield, sparkplug and fuel page 15
Trouble shooting page 16-17
Crankaxle dis- and reassembly page 18-19
Engine removal page 20-21
Swingarm and Centerstand page 22-23
Various page 24
Steering lock page 25
Frontfork page 26-27
Wheels page 28
Silencer page 29
Electrical equipment page 30
Electrical diagram 29/5 W page 31
Electrical diagram 22/10/5 W page 32

Important notice
Only original BATAVUS and LAURA parts guarantee
ultimate safety and protection against needless damage.
Warranty claims will not be accepted when assembly or
use of imitation replacement parts are established.

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Technical data engine
Type of engine Two stroke engine, reed valve controlled.
Bore x stroke 40 x 38 mm.
Cubic capacity 48 cc (2.9 cu. in.)
Cylinder Special cast iron
Cylinderhead Aluminum alloy
Cylinder base gasket Klingerit
Inlet gaskets Klingerit
Crankcase gasket Paper
Piston Very special alloy and shape. Oversize 40.20 mm.
Pistonrings Cast iron, 2 rings, oversize 40.20 mm.
Gudgeon pin Floating
Crankshaft Build up type, ball bearing on each side
Bearings Bigend bore honed trough wich extremely high accuracy.
Connecting rod: big-end needle bearing
little-end bronze bushing
Clutch housing: Needle bearing with seal on one side.
Mixture Pulley: Two needle bearings with seal on both sides.
Regular gas (not premium!) and a good quality two stroke oil.
Proportion during break in period 1 :40 (2,5%) thereafter 1 : 50 (2%).

Execution
20mph. 25 mph. 30 mph.

Compression ratio 6: 1 7: 1 8:1

Output HP 1.2 1.7 2.0
Torque ftlb 2.0 2.3 2.5
Carburettor type S23A S8A S 22 or S 25
Throttle valve nr. 190 190 405 167
Yet size 52-50 54-52 58-56
Ignition valid for engines valid for engines valid for engines
to nr. 772302 to nr. 779301 to nr. 780501
6V-29/5W. 6V-29/5W. 6V-29/5W.

Valid for engines Valid for engines Valid for engines

from nr. 772302 from nr. 779301 from nr. 780501
6V-22/10/5W. 6V-22/10/5W. 6V-22/10/5W. 6V-22/10/5W.

Sparkplug Bosch W 175 T1 Bosch W 175 T1 Bosch W 240 T1

Champion L85 Champion L85 Champion L81
Gear ratio prim. 4.1 : 1 3.6: 1 3.6:1
Gear ratio sec. 4 8 : 11 5 0 : 13 50:13

Technical data frame

Frame Single tube frame with seperate fuel tank.
Position of frame nr. Right side of stearing head.
Frontfork Telescopic type; 5 cc. grease Retinax A per fork leg.
Rear fork Swing axle type.
Fuel tank Batavus VA .92 gal. (3.5) litres.
Batavus HS 50 1.3 gal. (5 litres).
Lighting Headlamp 6 V-21 W.
Brakelight6V-10W.
Tailight6V-5W.
Electichorn 6 V-24W.A.C.
Tyres Front and rear 2-16".
Tyre pressure Front 28 lbs.
Rear 34 lbs.
Rims Front and rear 1.20 x 16".
Dry weight 107 lbs. (48.5 kg.).
Max. G.V.W. 350 lbs. (160 kg.).
Chains Engine transmission 1/2x3/16".
Pedal transmission 1/2x1/8".

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 Tools
For special tools see spare parts list.

Metrical tools needed:

Tube spanner 10 mm.

Tube spanner 17 mm.

Open ended spanner 8x 9 mm

Open ended spanner 10 x 11 mm
Open ended spanner 12 x 13 mm
Open ended spanner 14 x 15 mm
Open ended spanner 16 x 17 mm
Open ended spanner 18 x 19 mm
Open ended spanner 32 mm

Close ended spanner 8x 9 mm

Close ended spanner 10 x 11 mm
Close ended spanner 12 x 13 mm
Close ended spanner 14 x 15 mm
Close ended spanner 16 x 17 mm
Close ended spanner 18 x 19 mm

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Cylinder and cylinderhead
The M 48 engine is equiped with a cast iron cylinder. Always use a new cylinder base gasket and never any
A cast iron cylinder is cheaper than an aluminum one and seal!
has also the advantage that the cylinderbore can be Put the base gasket in the right position, otherwise the
rehoned after being damaged. gasket will partly cover the scavenging ports, thus
As the specific power of these engines is relatively low causing lost of power.
(abt. .7 hp/cu.in.) the heat abstraction is sufficient. Since the cylinderhead is the best cooled part of the
Hence an aluminum cylinder is not necessary. engine, it is very important that the heat conduction
In the case of a rehoned cylinderbore an oversize piston from cylinder into the cylinderhead will not be disturbed.
should be applied. Therefore never use a gasket or any seal between
In order to get the required piston clearance the diameter cylinder and cylinderhead!!
of the bore has to be rehoned to 40.245 - 40.255 mm. The joint surfaces are machined in such a way that there
Before dismantling the cylinder, the surroundings of the will be no leakage at all, even without gasket or seal.
cylinderbase have to be cleaned with a brush and The cylinder bore is tapered so that the use of a clamp
kerosine to prevent dirt from getting into the crankcase. for the pistonrings is not necessary.
Remove the sparkplug. The piston rings can be pinched together as shown in
Remove the 4 nuts of the cylinderstuds (take care that pict. 3.
the plain washers and the spring washers do not get
lost) and the two bolts of the exhaust pipe.
Remove the cylinderhead and carefully take off the
cylinder.
Remove the cylinder base gasket.
Put a not fluffy rag around the connecting rod to prevent
dirt from getting into the housing.
Take care that the joint surfaces will not be damaged.
Before assembling cylinder and cylinderhead the joint
surfaces have to be cleaned very carefully (dont scratch!)
Decarbonize the cylinder (especially the exhaust port)
and cylinderhead if necessary. Protect the cylinderbore
with a rag when decarbonizing the exhaust port in the
way as shown in pict. 1.

Pict. 3

Be sure that the locating pegs in the piston are indeed

inside the ring gaps. Before assembly the cylinderbore
should be oiled.
After carefully pushing the cylinder along the piston on
the crankcase, the cylinderhead with plain washers,
spring washers and nuts can be assembled.
Tighten nuts crosswise!
Fit spark plug.

Pict. 1

To determine whether the cylinderbore is worn out too

far put a new pistonring into the bore and check the gap,
which has to be between .2 and .5 mm (.008" and
.020"). See pict. 2.

Pict. 2

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Piston

To minimize the difference in expansion between piston

and cylinder the piston is made of a very special alloy.
Moreover the piston has a very specific shape.
Another advantage of this special alloy is that it is very
hard so gudgeon pin bores do not wear out.
When demounting piston, first remove pistonrings.
When reassembling the pistonrings be sure to put the
rings in the same piston ring groove as before.
Thereafter remove both circlips with a pair of pliers with
flat bits, and press gudgeon pin out of the piston.
Before reassembling the piston first check the gap of the
piston rings. See pict. 2.
Clean the ring grooves in the piston carefully before
assembling the rings.
Before assembling the piston, one of both circlips has to
be placed in the gudgeon pin bore. Always use new
circlips.
Push the gudgeon pin into the piston bore in such a way
that the pin protrudes inside the piston about 3 mm.
(.12").
Fit the piston on the connecting rod (first oil the little end
bush) and press the protruding part of the pin into the
little end bush.
Press the pin into the right position and fit the second
circlip.
Fit the piston rings in previous grooves.
Be sure that the arrow on the piston bottom points at the
exhaust port.

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Clutch
The construction of the clutch is shown in pict. 4

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v\m
Schematic the clutch is shown in pict. 5. At about 2500 rpm. the centrifugal force on the balls in
the spring has become sufficient to exceed the pre-stress
force in the spring, resulting in an outward mouvement
of the balls.
As the spring will now move along the sloping side of the
clutch hub 2, it will at the same time be forced to move

H
to the left side, pressing together pressure plate 3, clutch
plate 4 and endplate 5.
In this way the clutch plate (with cams) will cause the
clutch housing 6 to rotate.
When starting the engine the proces is reversed. Now
the starter leaf spring 7 presses all plates together.
The distance between the starter leaf spring and the
thrust piece (x in pict. 5) has to be .5 - 1 mm
<.020"-.039").
This distance can be adjusted by bending the leafspring
fitted on the housing, in case the distance is to small.
If the distance is to large the starter leaf spring has to be
removed from the engine. After putting it in a vice it can
be bended into correct position and refitted again.

• M Always grease the thrust piece!

A needle bearing, supplied with an oilseal at the crank-
case side is fitted in the clutch housing.
A seperate seal is fitted in the opposite side of the bore.
( 9 8 10 This is a feltring at first assembly.
Pict. 5 Storing may cause the feltring to become dry. Therefore
it is much better to fit an oil seal instead of a feltring, in
case of repair.
If a new needle bearing has to be fitted it should be done
in such a way that the measure ij in pict. 5 is 25.5 -
Operation: 26.5 mm (1.0039" -1.0079").
Spring 1 is filled with steel balls, the spring ends are
screwd together. 4
The diameter of the spring is less than the diameter of Only press on the marked side of the cage, other-
the clutch hub on which the spring is fitted, so that wise the needle bearing will be damaged irreparable.
mounting causes a certain prestress in the spring. The clutch housing of the 20 mph. and 25-30 mph.
When the crankshaft is revolving, all the shaded parts engines are different broadwise, because the V-belt and
and the clutch spring revolve since all those parts are the primary reduction are different for the 20 mph. and
attached to the crankshaft. 25-30 mph. engine.

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 To distinguish them very clearly the housing of the
20 mph. engine is painted yellow-brown and the one for
the 25-30 mph. engine is painted red-brown.
To prevent the clutch housing and clutch hub from
wearing, a steel washer 15 x 28 x .5 mm (.59 x 1.1 x
.020") nr. 11 in pict. 4 is fitted on the crankshaft.
Take care that this washer is well centered on the crank-
shaft!! When fitting this washer it is better to put the
crankshaft in a vertical position.
In front of this steel washer a saucer spring has been
placed. The hollow side of this saucer spring must be on
clutch side (opposite engine side).
This is very important!
Only the 25-and 30 mph. engines have a second steel
washer (12 x 24 x .5 mm. .47 x .95 x .020") in front of the
saucer spring, to assure sufficient clearance between
cultch hub and clutch housing.
Replacement of one of the parts 1 to 5 pict 5 has to be
followed by checking the total clearance of the clutch by
means of a feeler-gauge as shown in pict. 6.
This clearance has to be between .5 and .9 mm (.020 and
.035").
If this clearance is too small the cause may be an
undulated endplate or pressure plate, or because of the
shape of the screwed spring ends.
The 6 nuts holding the total clutch packet have to be
loosened before dismantling the clutch.
Secure the clutch by placing a screw driver between two
of the nuts.
Press on clutch packet to prevent undulated washers
from snapping away, when removing last nut.
Flatten the tab washer nr. 12 pict. 4. Use tool nr.
48.50.05 as a steady and loosen the central nut. Next
take the reverse side of tool 48.50.05 and fit it to the
clutch hub, tighten it with 2 nuts, screw the pin of the
little end bush press into the threaded hole and pull of
the hub from the crankshaft as shown in pict. 7.
The clutch housing can be pulled off by hand.
When reassembling the clutch be sure of the right order
of the steel washers and saucer spring and the right
position of the saucer spring.
Always take a new tab washer and flange the tab
washer against one of the nut sides, after tightening the
nut.
Between clutch housing and clutch plate a leafspring
nr. 13 pict. 4 is fitted on one of the clutch plate cams.
The only purpose of this spring is to prevent any noise
while the engine is idling.
It does not interfere with the clutch function.

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Ignition 6 V - 29/5 W.
Valid for: 20 mph. engines to nr. 772302 The rupture distance can only be changed by changing
25 mph. engines to nr. 779301 the breaker gap.
30 mph. engines to nr. 780501 A larger breaker gap will give a smaller rupture distance,
a shorter breaker gap means a larger rupture distance.
The ignition is supplied with: All parts are machined in such an accurate way that this
1 Coil 29 W . for the headlight rupture distance is automatically is correct when the
1 Coil 5 W . for additional charging of the breakerpoint gap is correctly adjusted.
battery The proceedings mentioned before guarantee maximum
1 H.T. coil spark.
Now take care to have this maximum spark at the right
All these coils are mounted on the base plate, placed in position of the piston in the cylinder, which is 1.8 -
the flywheel. 2.2. mm. (.071" - .087") before T.D.C.
When dismounting the flywheel it must be secured by To adjust this, screw a dial gauge into the sparkplug hole
tool nr. 48.50.10. of the cylinderhead.
After removing the nut, the flywheel can be pulled off Turn the flywheel clockwise until piston is at T . D . C ,
with tool nr. 48.50.02 secured again with tool nr. which is the point where the dial pointer changes its
48.50.10. direction.
Always put the flywheel with the open side upwards on Now connect an ignition adjusting apparatus, one wire
the workbench to prevent iron parts, like small washers, grounded (for instance on cylinderhead) the other one to
to be attracted by the magnetos. the cut-off wire ofrthe ignition (black wire).
Loosen the 3 screws of the base plate and remove the As long as the breaker points are closed the lamp of the
baseplate out of its position in the crankcase. adjuster will burn.
In order to move the wires freely through the rubber Turn the flywheel anti-clockwise. The moment the
grommets, oil them a little before. breaker points open the lamp will extinguish because of
Never pull the base plate to move the wires out of the the interuption of the electric circuit.
grommets but always pull the wires themselves. Watch the dial gauge to see how far the piston has
Mounting the ignition the wires have to be put into the descended.
grommets first. Some oil on the wires makes it easier. When the latter is less than 1.8 mm. (.071") the spark
Fit the base plate into the crankcase location, between between the spark plug electrodes is too late or in other
the cams. Take care that this is done correctly and that words the ignition is retarded.
no wire is pinched between base plate and casting. In that case the base plate has to be turned anticlock-
Fit the 3 screws but doe not yet tighten them. wise.
Next mount the flywheel and make sure that the key fits When the descending of the piston in the cylinder at the
in the key groove of the flywheel. Fit plain washer, moment of ignition, is more than 2.2 mm. (.087") the
toothed washer and nut on the crankshaft. spark is too early, or in other words the ignition is
Secure the flywheel again with tool nr. 48.50.10 and advanced. In that case turn the base plate clockwise.
tighten the nut. Thus having adjusted the moment of ignition, the three
Now turn the flywheel clockwise until the breaker gap is base plate screws can be tightened.
maximum, visible through the holes in the flywheel. Instead of using a dial gauge a sliding gauge (vernier
Check the breaker gap. calipers) can be used as follows:
The gap must be between .35 and .45 mm. (.014 and Turn the piston in T.D.C. and measure the distance
.018"). between piston bottom and upperside of the spark plug
If the gap is not correct it can be adjusted by loosening hole.
the screw of the breakerpoint set, and moving the fixed Turn back the flywheel till the lamp extinguish and
contact into the desired direction by means of a screw measure the distance again.
driver. The difference between both sizes is the ignition
For the capacity of the spark the rupture distance (see advance. If one on the coils has to be replaced use a
pict. 8 distance A) is very important. feeler gauge to check the air gap between inner rim
(magnetos) and core shoes.
This gap has to be .2 mm. (.0079"). See pict. 9.

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limn
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Pict. 8 s

This distance has to be 7-11 mm. (.28.39"). s

This is an indication for such position of the flywheel
where the magnetic field changes its direction: a position
in which the electric current is maximum. Pict. 9

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Ignition 6 V-22/10/5 W.
Valid for: 20 mph. engines from nr. 772302
25 mph. engines from nr. 779301
30 mph. engines from nr. 780501

The ignition is supplied with:

1 coil 22 W. for the headlight.
1 coil 10 W. for the brakelight.
1 coil 5 W. for the rearlight.
1 coil as a primary ignition coil.

All these coils are fitted on the base plate, placed in the
flywheel.
The H.T. coil is mounted outside the flywheel.
This means an important improvement compared with
the former construction, because the external coil can be
dimensioned much larger and kept much cooler.
Burning out of the H.T. coil is now practically impossible.
Demounting, mounting and adjusting of this ignition is
exactly the same as for the 6 V. - 29/5 W . ignition.
The only difference is that for the 6 V. - 22/10/5 W.
ingnition the rupture distance is 20 - 25 mm. (.79".98")
and the cut-off wire is the blue one.

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Carburettor

The 20 mph. engine is supplied with a carburettor type S Loosen the screw top (nr. 85 pict. 10) of the throttle
23 A, diameter 8 m m . (.32") jet 52 - 50, Throttle valve valve housing and take the throttle valve nr. 81 out of the
nr. 190. housing.
The 25 mph. engine is supplied with a carburettor type S Unhook the choke cable from the choke valve nr. 95, pull
8 A, diameter 8 mm. (.32") jet 54 - 52, Throttle valve off the fuel line from the banjo nr. 101 and after
nr. 190. loosening the clamping screw the carburettor can be
The 30 mph. engine is supplied with a carburettor type S pulled off from the intake pipe.
22 diameter 12 mm. (.47") jet 58 - 56, Throttle valve The jet holder nr. 87 with jet nr. 82 is fitted in the
nr. 405. housing.
Recently (October 1976) the 30 mph. engine is supplied The jet holder can be screwed out of the carburettor
with a carburettor type S 25, diameter 12 mm. (.47") housing with a scrwedriver.
jet 58 - 56, Throttle valve nr. 167. In the same way the jet can be screwed out of its holder.
A new engine is always equiped with the largest of the
two mentioned jets.
Demounting: After the break in period this jet unsually must be
replaced by the smaller jet.
The carburettor is fixed on the induction pipe by a In a few cases this jet may be too small, thus giving a
clamping screw. mixture being too poor.
First remove the intake silencer by detaching the silencer This can be determined easily as follows:
clip. Ride the bike with fully opened gasgrip. After the bike
has reached maximum speed and the engine is on
working temperature the gasgrip must be partly closed
(abt. 30%).
In the bike is apt to ride faster it is evident that the jet is
too small.
In that case the larger jet must be fitted again.

In case of a dirty jet never try to clean it with a wire or a

needle, always clean it by blowing air trough the jet!

The atomiser is fitted on the bottom of the throttle valve

housing.
This atomiser is pressed into the casting on a precise
level, and can not be replaced. By the way, this will
never be necessary.
The throttle valve nr. 81 has a guide in the housing, so it
can not be mounted faultly.
It may happen, caused by a damage, that the valve can
not move freely inside the housing. In that case the valve
must be burnished wiht polishing paper.
The level in the floatchamber is regulated by a plastic
float nr. 97.

VER& KPL
CARB CPL.72

1
Pict. 10

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Occasionally this float may be leak. This can be checked
clearly by holding it up to the light, a leaking float shows
the mixture inside.
When assembling the float take care that the float needle
joins the guide in the bottom of the floatchamber as well
as the guide in the cover.
This can be checked easely by shaking the carburettor
after mounting the floatchamber cover (screws not yet
tightened).
The float operates properly if one hears it moving up and
down.
Make sure that the pointed end of the float needle is in
an upward position.

The idling speed of the engine can be adjusted by means

of the adjusting screw nr. 89. Turning the screw clock-
wise will increase the idling speed, turning the screw
anticlockwise will decrease it (Throttle valve moves up or
down).
Take care that the gascable has the right length, making
sure that the throttle valve can descend to the bottom of
the chamber indeed.

The carburettor also has a choke valve nr. 95. Pulling the
choke will cut-off the air supply nearly, thus providing an
additional rich mixture for the engine.
Also the choke cable must have the right length enabling
a full open intake diameter.

The banjo bolt nr. 103 is supplied with a little fuel strainer
nr. 102.
Due to the fact that the tap in the fuel tank is also
supplied with a strainer, it very seldom happens that the
banjo strainer is stopped up.

Intake silencer
The 20 and 25 mph. engines have similar silencers. Both
are supplied with an intake tube diameter 14 mm. (.55").
The 30 mph. engines are supplied with a tube diameter
16 mm. (.63").
The filter of the silencer must be cleaned in gas every
500 miles and moistened with oil afterwards.
After fitting the silencer do not forget to apply the rubber
seal on the junction carburettor-silencer.
Never ride a moped without an intake tube or with
shortened intake tube.
By doing so the power of the engine will not increase,
the only result is that dirt will be sucked into the engine,
causing serious engine troubles!
This is also the case after drilling holes into the intake
silencer!!

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Reed valve
Of all possibilities to control a two-stroke engine, reed
valve control assures the best cylinder filling especially in
the lower revolution range.
For that reason the performance at low revolutions is
better than with any other system, which is very
important for acceleration and climbing power.
Another advantage is that this arrangement eliminates
the waste of fuel which can occur in engines using other
methods of intake control.
Important is that the reed valve has been manufactured
with very high accuracy.
The reed valve is activated by variations in pressure in
the crancase.
If the piston ascends the crankcase volume will increase
causing decrease of pressure (below the atmosferica)
which will open the reeds.
If the piston descends the reverse occurs.
It will be clear that it is extremely important that the
reeds shut off the reed valve completely, not requiring
any tension, so that they can follow the pressure
variations freely.
Never try to check the elastic quality of the reeds with a
knife or anything like it, nor clean them with any other
object.
The only right way to clean them is with a soft brush
dipped in kerosine.
In case of any doubt about the condition of a reed valve
(for instance when seeing light between reeds and
housing), put the pointed side of the reed valve in your
mouth and try to breathe via the reed valve.
If inhaling is easy and exhaling impossible, the reed valve
is still in a good condition.
Always use a new gasket when mounting the reed valve.

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Crankcase
The crankcase consist of two parts connected and
tightened with 6 screws of equal lenght and diameter,
and fixed to each other by two dowel pins.
Because of the fact that the two parts have been
machined connected together, replacement of one of
the parts is not possible.
When the engine comes to working temperature the
aluminum housing will expand more than the steel crank-
shaft bearings fitted in the crankcase. To prevent
rotating of the bearings in the housing, the diameter of
the crankcase bores is smaller than the outside diameter
of the ball bearings.-
Before demounting the crankcase, loosen and remove
the 6 screws. To prevent the crankcase bores from
inrreparable damage it is necessary to heat the housing
parts up to about 100°C (212°F) by means of a Bunsen
burner or a hot plate of 2000 W.
An easy way to check the temperature is to spit on the
housing. Immediate evaporation means the housing has
reached the right temperature.
Seize the housing at two cylinder studs of the same
crankcase half, using a rag or gloves, and separate both
parts by tapping all around the outside of the housing,
using a plastic hammer.
Never hammer on the crankshaft!!
Before assembling the crankcase the parts also have to
be heated up to about 100°C (212°F).
Start with that part in which the dowel pins are fitted to
assure a correct position of the gasket. Before fitting the
gasket the joint surface should be oiled.
Next insert the crankshaft, clutch side first, into the
crankcase. Heat the other part and join both parts.
Then fit the 6 housing screws. After being tightened this
operation has to be repeated when the crankcase has
cooled down sufficiently.

Oil seals
Once a housing has been dismantled it is recommen-
dable to fit new oil seals.
In c|se of leakage this must be done.
How^o find a leak oil seal?:
Put the piston in T.D.C. to be sure that all ports of the
cylinder are closed.
Pull of the carburettor from the induction pipe.
A leak now can be determined by blowing smoke into
the induction pipe.
When fitting the oil seals alsways use tool nr. 48.50.11
respectively nr. 48.50.12 together wiht tool nr. 48.50.01
to prevent any damage of the oil seals and to be sure that
the seals are in the correct position.

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Crankshaft
The crankshaft has been machined with the highest If measuring tools to check this diameter are not
possible accuracy. available, the reaming operations has to be done in such
To obtain this optimal accuracy and inherent minimal a way that the gudgeon pin fits in the bore freely
clearances, very special machines and measuring tools (Floating).
are needed. The clearance has to be .020 mm. (.00079).
In a very sporadic case of a needed replacement of the Be sure that the bore of this bush is square to the
connecting rod, we therefore strongly recommend connecting rod.
replacement of a complete crankshaft. In case of a needed replacement of the crankshaft ball
Otherwise the accuracy can not be assured. bearings, these bearings first have to be extracted with
The little end bush in the connecting rod is made out of tool nr. 48.50.09 shown in pict. 13.
bronze.
This bush can be replaced, if necessary, by a new one as
follows: Press the bush out of the connecting rod with
tool nr. 48.50.03 as shown in pict. 11.

•,-•'-'J
i ,.-•-.,r
)3

<
Pict. 13
•

Protect thread on magneto side with tool nr. 48.50.07.

When pressing new ball bearings on the crankshaft tool
nr. 48.50.08 has to be placed between the webbs of the
crankshaft. This support plate must be laid on the bits of
a vice (see pict. 14) so that no external forces will act on
the crankshaft.
By not doing so the crankshaft will be irreparable
damaged.
Put a new ball bearing on the shaft and fit in its right
location by using a dolly nr. 48.50.01 see pict. 14.

Pict. 11

\u
Press a new bush into the connecting rod with the same Pict. 14
tool as shown in pict. 12.
Now the oil holes have to be drilled after which the bore
of the bush has to be reamed to a diameter
, . + .016
12 mm.
+ .020

\
I \
\
-*

^
Pict. 12 s T !

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Dirt shield
The dirt shield, attached to the crankcase offers — If the electodes are grey/yellow-brown, the engine is
additional protection against dirt. Never ride the moped in a good condition.
without this shield. The heat grade of the spark plug is correct.
To protect the dirt shield against destruction special
distance bushes are fitted in the bolt holes. Do not forget — A velvetlike dull black fur
to fit these bushes. On the electrodes can be caused by:
a too large jet
a too large electrodes gap
a heat grade to high, so a spark plug of a too cold
type.
Spark plug — A greasy black oily fur on the electrodes can be
caused by:
The spark plug is one of the most important parts of the too much oil in mixture
engine. Two temperatures are very important for the worn out cylinder or piston rings
spark plug:
— Electrodes burnt with melting pearls on the insulator
— The temperature at which the spark plug burns itself bottom and a fur consisting of lead compounds can
clean. be caused by:
This temperature is about 500°C (930°F). a too small jet
a leaky spark plug or a not tightened spark plug
— The temperature causing spontaneous ignition. heat grade too low, so a plug of a too warm type.
This temperature is about 900°C (1650°F).
— Glassy sand pearls between the electrodes can be
It will be clear that the temperature first mentioned caused by:
always must be reached to give a clean spark plug and a dirty air filter
that the second temperature never may be reached to riding without or with a shortened intake tube
prevent damage of for instance the piston. riding without dirt shield.
For that reason the sparkplug has a very specific heat
grade, which has been determined experimentally for the
engine. Fuel
The spark plug for the 20 and 25 mph. engines is fixed on
Bosch W 175 T1 with Champion L 85 as an equivalent, During the break in period (500 miles) the mixture must
and for the 30 mph. engines Bosch W 240 T1 with be 1 : 40 (2.5%) that means 1 part of oil to 40 parts of
Champion L 81 as an equivalent. gasoline.
The spark plug gap has to be .5 mm. (.020"). After the break in period the mixture can be reduced to
Always check this because there are similar spark plugs 1 : 50 (2%).
with a gap of .7 mm. (.028"). Since the oil in the mixture is the only lubrication for all
Always use the prescribed spark plug to prevent moving parts of the engine never use a lower percentage
difficulties. of oil than the percentage prescribed.
The sight of the spark plug gives much information Only use a good quailty 2-stroke oil and regular gasoline,
about the condition of the engine. so never premium!!

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1.800.965.1977
Trouble shooting
Localizing defects should always be done systematically.
In case the engine will not start the cut off wire has to be
disconnected first, because it happens that this wire,
owing to damage, contacts ground.
Thereafter check whether fuel comes into the carburet-
tor, by pulling off the fuel line of the carburettor.
If there is no fuel just take off the fuel tank cap because
the desaeration may be stopped up, causing too little
pressure on the fuel in the tank.
Trouble can be located in most of the cases with the data
mentioned below:

I Engine does not start or bad starting.

a-Short circuiting Disconnect cut off wire from connecting block.

b-no fuel — Desaeration of fuel tank cap is stopped up.

— Strainer of fuel tank cap is stopped up.
— Fuel line is pinched.
— Float gets stuck caused by bended needle or the
guide in bottom of float chamber is polluted.
— Strainer of banjo bolt is stopped up.
— Dirt in jet.

c-No or a too weak spark Check as shown in pict. 15 — Spark plug worn out.
below. — Plug gap too larg.
— Greasy spark plug caused by too much fuel, as a
result of: — leaky float
— float needle does not shut
— air filter stopped up
— choke valve partly closed.

— Breaker gap not correct. (Rupture distance.)

— Breaker points burnt. Replace!!
— H.T. coil damaged, no spark. Replace coil.
— Faulty connection of H.T. lead in H.T. cover or H.T.
coil.
— Faulty condensor.

— Faulty reed valve

Pict. 15 — Leaky oil seals and/or gaskets
— Slipping V-belt
— Worn out clutch plate
Distance between arrows must be 3-4 mm. (.12-.16") — Throttle valve does not reach the bottom of the
throttle valve housing
d-Miscellaneous — Exhaust silencer or exhaust port in cylinder car-
bonized.

II Engine starts well but stops after a short time. IV Bad tractive power and too high speed.

— Desaeration in fuel tank cap stopped up. — Too small jet or jet partly stopped up.
— Faulty coil insulation. — Leaky oil seals and/or gaskets.
— Fuel supply partly stopped up.
V Clutch does not disengage at idling speed.

Blistering of the clutch plate caused by excessive

heating. This is mostly the result of bad handling, for
instance continual opening the gasgrip with fully
drawn rear break.
By doing so all the engine power will be converted
Ill Idling speed remains too high, in spite of into the clutch.
adjustment. Maximum thick/iess clutch plate 3.6 mm.
— Undulated pressure-plate and/or end plate.
— Leaky seals and/or gaskets. — Deformed clutch hub by which pressure plate and/or
— Throttle valve does not reach the bottom of the endplate can not move.
throttle valve chamber. — Faulty neediy bearing in clutch housing.

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1.800.965.1977
VI Crankshaft does not rotate w h e n pedalling w i t h
pulled starting handle.

— Slipping V-belt
— Bended starter leaf spring
— Worn clutch plate.

VII Bad or jerky acceleration of the moped.

— Clutch clearance too small caused by blisters on

clutch plate
— Undulated pressure plate and/or endplate

VII At top speed too many vibrations as a result of

so called four-stroking.

— Too large jet

— Stopped up air filter
— Partly closed choke valve.

IX Bad acceleration and bad climbing power.

— carbonized exhaust silencer

— carbonized exhaust port in cylinder.

X Starting the engine is impossible because crank-

shaft will not rotate.

seized piston caused by: too littel oil in the mixture

too small jet
dirt in cylinder as a result of
riding without intake tube or
with shortened intake tube
dirty air filter
riding without dirt shield
— Too small piston clearance
— Bending of the piston rod.

10.76
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Crankaxle dis- and reassembly

Chain:
Remove pedal transmission chain by loosening the
connector.

Left side crank:

Remove cotterpin nut and drive out the pin while
supporting the crank (see pict. 16).

Pict. 18

The 2 pulley needle bearings are pressed on to the pulley.

Remove the pulley every 500 miles clean the bearings
and provide them with some new grease.
Use a persussionstamp (drift) or a small home made
press (see pict. 18 item C) for dis- and reassembly.
When pressing the needle bearing into its position also
see to it, that the pressure comes to that side of the
bearing that bears an inscription.
Before remounting the pulley, clean the bearing with
petrol and put new grease into it.
Start reassembling with fitting the retaining washer
(1 mm) to the axle and fit pulley temporarily with at least
Pict. 16 one washer E between pedal chainwheel and pedal shaft
bearing. Take a straight rule and put it along the
crankcase-face of the engine.
The distance between the crankcase-face and the pulley
on the spots A and B (see pict. 19) should be exactly the
same, viz 8-10 mm (.31"-.39").
Crankaxle and pulley:
First remove bushing B and retaining washer C and next
the crankaxle by turning and pulling at the same time.
Keep pulley supported when removing axle to avoid
damages (see pict. 17).
The sprocket attached to the pulley (see pict. 18 item A) ^
is secured by a locknut (see pict. 18 item B) with right
hand thread.

Pict. 17

Pict. 19

If they are not the same, the engine should be moved

into a perfect alignment by partly loosening the 4 bolts
by means of which the engine bracket is attached to the
frame.
Fit the V-belt and check alignment by looking down on
the V-belt.

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1.800.965.1977
If not properly aligned, correct by fitting a 0,5 or 1,0 mm
spacer between pulley and axle bearing at location E
(see pict. 17).
The V-belt can be tensioned by partly loosening the
engine fastening bolts and completely loosening the
exhaust muffler clamp.
After hafing done so, the V-belt can be tensioned by
means of the tension adjustment bolt (see pict. 20).

Pict. 20

To remount the left hand crank first slide retaining

washer (1 m m , see pict. 17 item C) and bushing (see
pict. 17 item B). Fit as many washers C as necessary to
achieve an axial clearence of the pulley which not
exceeds 0,5 mm (.020").
The V-belt has the right tension when it can be
depressed 0,5 cm (.020") by light finger pressing (see
pict. 20A).

\ X\
•

Pict. 20A

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Engine removal
In order to remove the engine out of the frame, the Exhaust system:
following parts have to be removed first: Remove exhaust pipe from cylinder and exhaust muffler
from frame.
Engine shield:
Loosen the 4 fastening screws, lift the front end of the Carburettor:
shield and remove it. Remove carburettor from intake pipe, then move
carburettor downwards so that the throttle, choke cable
Chain: and the fuel line can be removed.
Remove engine transmission chain by releasing the The choke cable can be removed by unhooking the
connector. connecting spring (see pict. 22).

Intake silencer and airfilter: Engine cover:

Remove intake silencer housing and airfilter. Remove cover; turn adjusting screw of start cable to its
extreme slack position and remove start cable from
starter leaf spring (see pict. 23).

»
4J
^-7

V** ft
\

© B
Pict. 23
.

Pict. 21
Wiring:
Remove the plugs, connecting the engine to the
contacter and H.T.-coil (see pict. 24).

Engine support system:

The engine is attached to the frame by means of an
engine support-bracket (see pict. 25) in rubber
mountings.

^
Pict. 22

>
See to it, that the rubber gaskets A and B are properly
A
fitted again when housing and filter are re-assembled
(see pict. 21). Pict. 24

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1.800.965.1977
Pict. 25

Loosen the fastening screws and take the engine out of

the frame.
The engine support bracket is attached to the engine by
means of 3 bolts M 7 x 18 and 1 bolt M 7 x 15 (see
pict. 26).

«» -50-»

Pict. 26

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Swingarm dis- and reassembly
Swingarm:
The rearfork construction is based on the so called swing
arm principle.
The advantages of this construction are, constantly
equal chain tension during spring action and keeping 2

away all engine vibrations from the rider.

Dis-assembly of the swingarm:

Remove the rear brake cable from the rear hub by
unhooking it from the fastening lip.
Then the following steps have to be performed after
having removed the engine:
— Remove the rear wheel;
— Release and remove the lower shock-absorber bolts;
—
—
Release the locknut of the swingarm bolt;
Release the swingarm bolt;
M Tr
— Disassemble the wire plug (see pict. 24).

IT
Pict. 28
W
"N
«

S
V r
*s\

m / Pict. 27

Reassembly of the swingarm:

Follow the reverse order of the operations described •
above. Mount shock-absorbers before tightening swing- Pict. 29
arm bolt and pre-tension them, center to center 290 mm
(11,23") (see pict. 27).
This to achieve optimum pre-load of the silent blocs. A high load is needed to press new blocs into the frame.
Tighten swingarm bolt with 8 mkp (58 ft lb) (see pict. 27) But if after the first 500 miles the bolt is retightened
and secure it with the counter nut. properly as described above, replacement will not be
Make absolutely sure that the swingarm bolt is tightened necessary.
properly.
If tightened insufficiently the silentblocs (pict. 28 item S)
will start turning around this bolt, thus causing serious
wear and tear on the inner bushing.
For the sake of avoiding this it is necessary after the
first 500 miles to release the counter nut and tighten the
swingarm bolt, and then secure it again with the counter
nut!

Disassembly of the silentblocs:

The silentblocs cannot be pressed out before the Centerstand
outerwall has been weakened by drilling holes between
inner- and outer-bushing with a 6 mm (15/64") drill (see The centerstand is attached to the rearfork by means of
pict. 29) as the fitting of the silentblocs is very tight. special M 8 bolts (see pict. 28, item T).

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1.800.965.1977
|flf ^
* N , : • - . v -

<$r ~ \
Pict. 30

For the assembly of the stand spring a piece of bowden

cable in a tube can be a handy tool (see pict. 30).

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1.800.965.1977
Various
Also attached to the rearfork is the automatic chain
tensioner (see pict. 28, item B) and the crankaxle-
bearings (see pict. 28, item D).
See to it, that the chain-tensioner is properly aligned
with the pedal chain.
The crankaxle bearings should be fitted by using a
percussion stamp (drift), thus achieving centring of the
bearing at the same time.
In case the axle nuts have been removed or loosened the
alignment of the wheels should be checked by means of
a rule, after retightening the nuts (see pict. 31).

'

A
Pict. 31

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Steering lock

Perform steps as follows to replace the steering lock: 4. remove lock by means of punch and hammer (see
pict. 35); the small blocking pin will break allowing
A) Remove lock plate, which is fixed with a pressed pin
the lock to be removed from the housing.
and a spring washer (see pict. 33).

>>

Pict. 35
Pict. 33
Fuel tap
B) Turn lock to the left if key is still available and remove The fuel tap has a reserve supply provision.
lock (see pict. 34). The upper and lower strainers (see pict. 32) filter the fuel
when tap is open or in the reserve position.

HS50

Pict. 32
Pict. 34

C) When lock is out of order or both keys are missing: The tapnut (item C) has a left and a right hand thread on
1. remove top fork plate (crownplate) with handle- the inside.
bar still assembled by loosening ballhead nut and The tap has a left hand thread, the tankfitting a right
fork top nuts; hand thread.
2. loosen upper cone (appr. 20 turns) so far that the First turn the tapnut one half turn on to the fuel tap,
fork lowers under the fork steady; when reassembling. Then fit tapnut to the tankfitting
and turn on both threads, in such a way that the tapnut
3. turn fork to the right in such a way that the covers an equal number of threads on both tankfitting
lock-pin is free; and fuel tap when tight. Don't forget the gasket!

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1.800.965.1977
Frontfork

a) Replacement of complete fork and/or ballhead

bearings.
b) Replacement of forkleg(s) with spring.
c) Replacement of slider bushings.

To achieve replacement as described under a):

— Remove frontwheel, fender and fender stays.
— Remove top forkplate (crownplate) with handle-bar
still assembled, by loosening ballhead locknut and
fork locknuts.
— Remove headlamp bolts.
— Protect fuel-tank against damage and put handlebar
on tank (see pict. 36).

V
Pict. 38

Always use new upper ball-cage and lower balls

(23 pieces). Grease with ballbearing grease.
The inner ballhead cone can be assembled by using a
long pipe (see pict. 39).
A sufficient fit is achieved by using a starring (see spare-
partslist page 6/7, item 14).
Pict. 36

— Release upper cone and remove frontfork.

Removal of the ballhead cups can be achieved by use of
a long punch (see pict. 37).

Pict. 39

Pict. 37 To achieve replacement as described under b):

— Remove successively frontwheel, stabilizer with
fender and top forkplate with handlebar and head-
New cups can be assembled by using a punch that sits lamp (see pict. 36).
fully on the race (see pict. 38). Then remove flat nuts and pull out fork legs.

10.76 26
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1.800.965.1977
To achieve replacement as described under c):
— Remove successively frontwheel, top forkplate with
handlebar and headlamp and flat nuts.
Please note that the bushings are split and that their
round cams fit into the holes of the forklegs (see
pict. 40).

I
Pict. 40

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1.800.965.1977
Wheels

Rims size is 16" and tyres size is 2-16".

The frontwheel spoke-length is 168 mm, thickness Nr. 12
number of spokes 28.

Thebrakeside rearwheel spoke-length is 164 mm, thick-

ness Nr. 11, the freewheel side spokes are 166 mm long
and also of thickness Nr. 11.
Total number of spokes is 36.
Both wheels should be respoked with a "3 over"-pattern.
When respoking the rearwheel always start with the
shorter brake side spokes.
For dis- and reassembly of the freewheel always use a
freewheel-remover'.
Both hubs are full drum hubs with cups and cone
bearings.
The front hub has 11 balls 7 / 3 2 " , the rear hub 13 balls
3/16 " (see pict. 41).

Pict. 41

If the lining thickness is less than 2 mm the brakeshoes

have to be replaced.
The thickness can be checked through holes in the
brakeplate (see pict. 42).
A peculiarity is that the brakeshoes are selfcentring.

i*x*
Pict. 42

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Silencer
In case the engine performance is gradually noticed to
decrease while the engine is still in a good mechanical
condition, it is very likely that the exhaust muffler and
sometimes even the exhaust-pipe and exhaust-port need
to be decarbonized.
The conical end of the silencer can be removed by
loosening the nut of the retainer inside the muffler
(see pict. 43).

Pict. 43

Next remove the silencer insert. The holes in the insert

need to be cleaned.
Use new rubberseal between the conical silencer-end
and the silencer itself, when reassembling (see pict. 44,
item S).

"**9

Pict. 44

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Electrical equipment

Consult the electrical diagram for any repair work of the

electrical equipment.
First of all make sure that all electrical parts are well
grounded.
Ceck the bulbs for proper condition.
Check the wires for short circuiting or being
disconnected.

Turn signal kit troubles

A) Check bulbs, grounding, switch and connections.
B) Check fuse (pict. 45, item A) in master pack.
C) Check flasher K by replacing.
D) If the nickel-cadmium battery B is flat it may be
recharged with a max. current of 1 Amps.
If recharging is not possible the battery has to be
replaced.

Pict. 45

F.S
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1.800.965.1977
 KILL SWITCH
• C T i f l B i K

I INDEX LAMP.

ifi:ow
M nvr ipaiioMETa i
SEALED BEAM

... I .•:
I HANDLEBAR SWITCH

r,r.*r

JEUZ^m
ICOUTACT Bipc

«-HW 6V.-2M

ffi UfitUL -••!••:": '•-•. ; asss

:. .-.> ye;: ow

fCLtJvV
WTAC1 •• m - Tlack

4. • ^ .'....-• |r*«n

-.,*.«
CONNECTOR

L I TURN SIGNAL LAMPS .R

I C€NEBATOW
Qf r t "
SPARK PLUG

| TURN 3GNAL FLASHER RATIFICATION J

DIODE "

TAILUGHT
BRAKE UGH!

BAITER* BOX | 0 ©"

•ATTI I" _6V - U h

www.1977mopeds.com
1.800.965.1977
 handlebar switch

J3±
mm signal lamp |fl-flft turn BccmiaiTOBt BJW

turn signal unit

4-@>-
ffljW"^ Ev-

WfTtitl Wwh
L..*„r JZ1 1
P>"~"—y
fra"? \«r>.
head lamp

[•* tat light

• «PB« tteh

^ei^LEua.

feJ (ufnggmllamc6V-10W
urn signal lamp 6V. -I0W

switch

brahe light twitch

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1.800.965.1977
L J