Taking measurements

and fabric consumption

for hijab sewing
To start sewing we need to choose fabric. And we always have
these questions: “Which fabric to choose?” and “How much fabric is
needed?”

There is a note about fabric consumption in each sewing tutorial,

but here I will try to answer on these two questions in general.

Which fabric should be used for hijab sewing?

To start please get familiar with blog-post where HelikaStyle
describes fabric use and types: click me.
And I will start with bad news! Unfortunately there is no standard for
fabric naming the shops would need to follow. I visited a lot of
shops in several countries and same fabric have different name in
each shop.  That is why we need to choose fabric by touching it and
watching it, also sometimes it is helpful to ask consulters in the
shop, but sometimes it is not. ))
NOTE: here we talk about hijab – headdress and everything else
what is overhead dress (French jilbeb for example).

Hijab can be sewn using jersey fabric – viscose or cotton jersey.  It

will be same name of the fabric in different shops, but you will meet
different quality.  If you need good quality do not try to save money
on it. I usually use jersey made in Italy and it has price about 13-16
eur for 1 meter, but it is immortal! But producing country will not tell
you anything.  First of all, “everybody lies”!   Secondly,  fabrics
made in Italy also can have bad quality.  So you need to choose
only by trial and error.  I can tell you that the jersey has to stretch
but too much, and the surface has to be more or less bald.   And
one more note, I do not recommend to sew midi and maxi khimars
from jersey fabric because it is too heavy fabric for this and hijab
will be sliding down.
If we do not want to sew jersey, we need to choose other soft, will
drapery, not transparent but still light fabric. Color and gloss as you
wish. Look for it in shops in the “light fabric” departments.

So just take fabric and gather it like shown the photos below,
observe the fabric drapery possibilities.

Each time when you buy fabric observe it:  what do you feel when
you touch it, how it moves, how it behaves during cutting; then you
will become experienced enough to buy fabric even in online shops!

How much fabric is needed to sew hijab?

Everything depends on type of the hijab you are going to sew. We
consider here three options:
 Al-Amira hijab
 Iranian style Al-Amira hijab (khimar)
 All kinds of khimars and French Jilbabs
To calculate fabric consumption we need to take measurements
and choose cutting way. If you are the beginner in sewing, try to
draft the pattern on the paper first and then you will be able to place
it properly on the fabric piece to find the most economic way of
cutting.

Let’s start from taking the measurements.

Size measurements needed to create hijab pattern.

Any headdress has size! If you see definition  “one size”, this
means the garment is sewn for size M,  for the size  S it could be
too big, for  L – too small. “One size” is usually used for stretching
things or when there is a fastening allowing to adjust the size.
The next table you can use to identify your head size.

Head size:  XXS  XS  S  M  L

 Head circumference:   50-51  52-53  54-55 56-57  5
To measure a head circumference: measuring tape has to be
placed along the middle of the forehead and the most bulging part
of the occiput.

When we sew hijab we possibly will  need to consider one more

head measurement – Vertical head circumference: measuring tape
has to placed along  the center of the underchin area, center of the
temple area and between the forehead line and the vertex.
To get the front length of the hijab: measure starting from the temple
till needed length

To get the back length of the hijab you can measure it or calculate it.

Measure it starting from the eyebrows line over the head middle
and the hair style you usually do till the needed length on the back.
From the measured value deduct 11 cm.

Calculation formula for the back length of the hijab  = the front length
of the hijab  + 20 cm.  If you want to get the back side much longer
than the front side you will need to add more than 20 cm.
Also the side length of the hijab may be needed: measure it starting
from the temple along the arm till the needed length.
 

FABRIC CUNSUMPTION FOR AL-AMIRA HIJAB SEWING

For the wide and loose al-amira hijab with underscarf you will need
a piece of the fabric having the width  140-150 см and length =
back length of the hijab + 30 см.

 30 cm – for underscarf.
For the Iranian style al-amira hijab the caluclation is the same.

FABRIC CUNSUMPTION FOR KHIMAR SEWING

mini and midi (not very wide)
We need a fabric piece with the length = the back length of the hijab +
30 cm.
 here 30 cm – is for headband and for seam allowances.
Remember, if you use stretching fabric, for bands itself  you should
use another not stretching fabric, for example popline :  a piece
having 150 cm width and  8-10 cm length.
 FABRIC CUNSUMPTION FOR MINI-MIDI KHIMAR (JILBAB)
SEWING
cutting along bias
We need a fabric piece with the length = 2* the side length of the
hijab + 50 cm
If you have elastic fabric do not apply cutting along bias! Also pay
attention on the prints and fabric texture – not all fabric styles are
applicable for cutting along bias.

FABRIC CUNSUMPTION FOR MINI-MIDI KHIMAR (JILBAB)

SEWING
cutting allong lengthwise grain
We need a fabric piece with the length = the front length of the
hijab + the back length of the hijab + 10 cm
10 cm – for seam allowances.

Taking and calculation of

 

the body measurements

The accurate body measurements are the base for the creation of
the garment with perfect fit.

When you do custom tailoring for the patterns drafting you measure
your client’s body and do some calculations. For the mass clothing
productions, companies use size values of the typical figures.

There are several kinds of the measurements:

 the base measurements, they have to be taken by measuring the

body: height, chest, waist circumference, hip circumference, sleeve
length
 additional measurements, which can be measured or calculated:
armhole depth from back side, nape to waist, hips height,  length of
the garment, bust height, front side waist length, back width
  additional measurements, which can be calculated only: back neck
width, armhole width
 special measurements, which should be taken in certain cases:  upper
arm circumference, elbow circumference, wrist  circumference, neck
circumference, half shoulder width,  bust width
CHEST/BUST CIRCUMFERENCE
Abbreviation: Bu
Wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of  your chest, put
the tape under armpits,  the ends should come together on the level
of  the lower parts of the shoulder blades in the middle of the back.
It is very important to measure this value correctly because it is the
base for calculation of  the other measurements.

WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE
Abbreviation: Tu
Wrap the measuring tape around the narrowest part of the waist
and put the ends together in front of the body.  Make sure that the
tape is placed  strictly horizontally.
 

HIPS CIRCUMFERENCE
Abbreviation: Hu
Wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of  your buttocks,
put the ends together on the any side. Make sure that the tape is
placed  strictly horizontally.
 

NECK CIRCUMFERENCE
Abbreviation: Hsu
Wrap the measuring tape tightly around the neck on the level of
stitching line of the collar. This measurements is used to control the
pattern.
BACK NECK WIDTH
Abbreviation: Hs
It is calculated by the formula: 0,1*0,5*Bu plus 2 cm

ARMHOLE DEPTH from back side

Abbreviation: Rh
It is measured starting from the seventh cervical vertebra along the
spine till the horizontal line  passing between the armpits.
It is better to use calculated value, by the formula: 0,1*Bu plus 10.5
cm

NAPE TO WAIST
Abbreviation: Rl
It is measured starting from the seventh cervical vertebra along the
spine till the line of the waist measurement (see above).
It is better to measure this value, but it can be also calculated: one
fourth of growth minus 1 cm.
HIPS HIGHT
Abbreviation: Ht
It is measured starting from the seventh cervical vertebra along the
spine till the line of the hips circumference measurement (see
above).
BUST HEIGHT
Abbreviation: Bt I
It is measured starting from the seventh cervical vertebra till the
most prominent point of the bust.
 

BUST HEGHT without Hs

Abbreviation: Bt II
It is calculated by the formula: 0.25*Bu plus 3-5 cm

FRONT SIDE WAIST LENGTH

Abbreviation: VI I
It is measured starting from the seventh cervical vertebra
through the most prominent point of the bust till the waist
measurement line (see above).
 

FRONT SIDE WAIST LENGTH  without Hs

Abbreviation: VI II
It is calculated by the formula:
Bu 80-90: Rl + 4 cm
Bu 91-100: Rl + 4.5 cm
Bu 101-110: Rl + 4.5 cm+ 0.1*delta
Bu 111-120: Rl + 5 cm + 0.1*delta
Bu 121-130: Rl + 5.5 cm + 0.1*delta
Bu more than 131: Rl + 6 cm + 0.1*delta
where delta = Bu – 100.

BACK WIDTH
Abbreviation: Rb
It is measured along the bust circumference measurement line (see
above) between the points of the back boundaries. Only hlaf of the
measured value has to be taken.
It can be also calculated by the formula: 0.125*Bu plus 5.5 cm
 

ARMHOLE WIDTH
Abbreviation: Ad
It is calculated by the formula: 0.125*Bu – 1.5 см

BUST WIDTH
Abbreviation: Bb
It is calculated by the formula: 0.25*Bu – 4 см

HALF SHOULDER LENGTH

Abbreviation: Schb
It is measured from the neck base till the future stitching line of the
sleeve.
 

SLEEVE LENGTH
Abbreviation: Alg
Raise your arm, bend the elbow slightly.  Measure the value along
the surface side of the arm starting from the future armhole stitching
line till the wrist line.
 

UPPER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE
Abbreviation: Obu
Wrap the measuring tape tightly around the fullest part of  the arm.
 

WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE
Abbreviation: Hgu
Wrap the measuring tape tightly around the wrist.
 
Basic bodice pattern
drafting overview –
without darts
Only general steps are described here to be done to get bodice (without
darts) pattern. This will help you to understand the technology of the
sewing pattern drafting, not more. There are no formulas or detailed
description for each step, as the goal is only to get you familiar with the
process. To know more, you will need to learn one or several schools of
the sewing and patterns drafting.

But if you do not want to study a lot, HelikaStyle is preparing special

publication series with patterns for different garments. You will be able to
draft quickly any pattern for you size using already calculated values and
dimensions.

So to start to draw the bodice pattern you usually need to measure or

calculate the following values:

 Bu – bust circumference
 Tu – bust circumference
 Ad – armhole width
 Rl – nape to waist
 Rh – armhole depth
 Ht – hips hight
 Rb – back width
 Bb – bust width
 Hs – back neck width
  VI II – front side waist length without Hs
How to take and calculated these measurements please read here: click me.
When you measure yourself check the following formula:Rb+Ad+Bb =
0,5*Bu. If this is not true in your case, do measurement again, or take only
calculated values.

The pattern is being made from the left side to the right, and left side of the
patter is the back.

Note: You will often meet  definition “ease” below in the description – it
is 0,5-4 cm,  which has to be added to the measurements to provide to the
future garment  wearing ease, a bit of freedom for the body movements.
The value of the “ease” depends on the garment you plan to sew and the
type of fabric. The ‘ease’ values in different pattern’s places depend on
each other and it is important to use correct values to keep the proportion
of the pattern.

Draw a vertical line  1-4.  And mark on this line points 2 and 3, where
1-2  –  Rh  – armhole depth + ease
1-3 – Rl – nape to waist
1-4 – Ht –  hips hight
Then draw horizontal lines to the point 1,2,3,4.

Mark the point 5 on the horizontal line from point 4. The distance 4-5 has
to be 2 cm.
Join points 1 and 5 with straight line.
Mark points 7 and 6 –  points where the line 1 and 5 intersects horizontal
lines drawn before.
On the horizontal line starting from point 2 mark the points  8, 9, 10 and
11, where
7-8  – Rb – back width + ease
8-9 – 2/3Ad  – two-thirds of the armhole width+ ease
9-10  – 1.3Ad – one-thirds of the armhole width+ ease
10-11 – Bb – bust width+ ease
The distanceе 7-11 has to be equal to the half of the bust circumference
plus all ease-values which were added.

Draw the perpendicular through the point 11.  We will get also points 12
and 13. See picture below.
  
On the horizontal line starting in point 1 mark the point 14, where distance
1-14 has to be equal to the back neck width (Hs).

Draw the perpendicular with the foot in point 14 and mark the point 15 on
it, where the distance 14-15 equal to 2 cm.
Join points 1 and 15 with shallow curve, to get the back-neck line.

Draw the perpendicular with the foot in point 8 and get the point 16 – the
point where new line intersects the line starting in point 1.  Mark the point
17 on the line 8-16  where the length of the line segment 16-17 equal 1 or
1.5 cm.

Draw the line through point 15 and 17 and mark the point 18 on this line,
where the line segment 17-18  equal to 3 or 4 cm. This is shoulder
line. The length of the shoulder line has to be corrected or adapted on the
ready pattern.
Bisect the line segment 8-17 bisect and draw to the left perpendicular line
segment with the length 1.5 or 2 cm. The bottom part of the partition
bisect again and draw one more perpendicular line segment with the length
1.5 or 2 cm. The last line segment has to be used as control point of the
sleeve stitching if applicable.
Starting from the point 10 draw perpendicular and mark the point 19. The
distance 10-19 has to be equal to the distance 8-17 plus 1 cm.
Starting from the point 12 to the up measure the value of the  VI II (Front
side waist length without Hs – calculated value), mark the point 20.  For
the bodies with small bust circumference deduct 1 cm from the value.

From the point 20 draw perpendicular to the right, and mark the distance
with the length equal to Hs (back neck width) + 0,5 см – get point 21.
Mark point 22, where the distance 20-22 is equal to  Hs (back neck width)
plus 1.5 or 2 cm. See picture below.
 Join point 20 and 21 to get extra line.  And on this additional line starting
from the point 20 mark additional point on the distance equal to Hs (back
neck width) plus 0,7 or 1 см.

Through this additional point and points 22 and 21 draw the front side
neck line.
Starting from the point  19 draw the arc to the right side, use the circle
drawing techniques with semidiameter length equal to the distance  10-19
with center in the point 10.
Draw the line segment 21-23 with the length equal to the length 15-18
minus 0,5 cm. The point 23 has to be the intersection point with the arc.

On the line 10-19, starting from the point 10 mark the distance 0.25*Ad
(armhole width). This point will be control point of the sleeve stitching
on the front side.
Draw the armhole line starting from the point 23 till 18, through control
points of the sleeve stitching. See the schema below.

Now it is needed to move shoulder line 1 cm down on the front and 1 cm

up on the back side.
Highlight the resulting ouline.

As this is only basic pattern,  it is not necessary to draw it till the hip line.
By lengthening and modeling and by increasing the values of the wearing
ease this pattern can be used as the base to create the final patterns for the
t-shirts, blouses, shirts and dresses and even coats.

Breastfeeding dresses –
ideas collections
One of the readers of this site shared the way how she made the dress with
breastfeeding solution. And I’ve decided to collect all possible ideas
regarding this topic.
When I studied the topic I found out two general ideas:

 several layers in this case top part of the dress has two layers: fist
one is to access what you need and second one to cover this place
 zips  – secret zippers are used. Can be only one long in the middle of
the dress but better to have two on the both sides where needed.
Also it is possible to combine layers and zips and this will be much safer)).
On this page there is a collection of already known ideas.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
Silk tunic with kimono
sleeves sewing tutorial
he best choice for the cold summer. You can sew any length. Very
simple pattern, only rectangles! We will sew very wide tunic using
silk fabric.

I bought silk crepe-satin.  For this tunic I spent 2 meters and this is
only for sizes 36-38. For bigger tunic you will need more fabric.

Pattern for this tunic looks like this:

а – the width of the tunic
b – the length of the tunic
c –  the width of the sleeve
d – the length of the sleeveWe need to cut rectangle with the
length = 2*b. These are our front and back sides.
I cut also two strips for decoration to combine satin sides.
We need to cut two more rectangles with width  d  and length
= 2*с (two widths of sleeve).
Also we need four stripes for bands and we need one more
rectangle for neckline facings.Below I mentioned values I used for
my tunic:
а = 0,80 м
b = 0,72 м
c = 0,27 м
d = 0,80 м
And at all I used a piece of fabrics: 2 m x 1,40 m.
Let’s begin.

First you need to remove sides edges.

Then cut described above rectangles.
 

 
Then draw and cut neck line
Result should look like:
Now let’s do neckline facings.
I like this kind of facings, it is easy and fit good. Stitch it. Cut it. Put
is on the right side and press it.

Fix the corners with short stitches and sew the neck line.
Attach decoration stripes.
Sew sleeves. For attaching sleeves to our tunic we need to leave
not sewn  1 cm.
  

See on the picture below how details have to fit.

Sew details together

Make 4 bands: two for sleeves and two for both sides on the tunic.
Sew cuffs line. Do not forget to leave a hole for bends.
On the both sides of tunic make 2 seams also for bends.
Put bands to theirs places on sleeves and both sides. Tie them
inside and nobody will see these bows.

Put it on and go to date with your husband!

How to sew maxi dress.
Very easy pattern.
…again a dress that is very easy to sew, for the beginners.
We will sew one with butterfly sleeves, with gathered waist line on
the elastic ribbon. We will use jersey and we will sew it very fast.

I used two pieces of jersey: for the top part a piece of the solid color
– two lengths, for the bottom part – multicolored jersey – one
length,wide elastic ribbon is also needed… threads, scissors,
sewing machine and bla bla bla….

How to cut top part of the dress please refer to pictures below.
(1) A piece of fabric for the top part  (2) fold in half  (3) and fold it
again – it will have four levels. Cut out unnecessary part.
A on the picture – length of the top part of the dress
B on the picture – half of the width of the top part also considering
sleeve length ( see pictures below to understand).
(4) cut out  butterfly sleeve line
D on the picture – for me was about 35 cm
Now neckline has to be cut out.
  

Sew on sides.

Cuffs and collar are cut as rectangles folded in half. Sew on them to
the top part.
Bottom part cut like this:

G – the length of the bottom part.

Fold such piece in half and make a seam. Sew bottom line..

Now we need to join bottom and top part. In between let’s put
waistband where elastic band will be placed.
  

Attach waistband to the bottom part.

And then attach bottom part to the top part.

By the way pay attention on seam of the bottom part , it has to stay
on the back.
I my case I leave it in the front and covered it with the lace ))
Put in the elastic band with length equal to your waist measurement
or a bit less.

It is ready!
How to sew underscarf-
tube
Undrerscarf-tube is the first underscarf among all possible types
and the simplest in sewing.
The main purpose of the underscarf-tube is the base for islamic
headdress, to fix the scarf on it and to not let this scarf to slide.
Sewing of it is only two steps: once to fold and once to stitch. But
anyway I share this instructions as introduction for all others types
of underscarves.

Before the star I’d like to tell you my opinion. I do not recommend
any kind of boneys or turbans, when back side of this headdress is
closed. Because they gather our long hear on top of the head and
this is prohibited for muslimah.  More over they are  absolutely not
comfortable in putting on as afterwards you need to hide back your
hairs.
I recommend to make such head dress with bands. It is more
comfortable to putt them on. Bands give possibility to regulate the
level of jersey stretching so this inner cap will be worn longer. That
is why all HelikaStyle underscarves have bands.
I’d like to say again that to sew underscarves it is better to use
jersey having 6-8% elastan. It can be viscose jersey or cotton
jersey. Do not use polyester for such garments!

We should not forget about jersey extensibility. This factor can be

different for each type of fabric so you will need to correct your
pattern according to fabric are you going to use.

So let’s begin.
You need to measure your head size.

Cutting is very simple:

You need to cut rectangle, where
a – the length of your underscarf. Usually it is about 30 cm.
b – is your head measurement multiplied by extensibility factor.
According to my experience  extensibility factor can heave values in
the interval   0,75 – 0,85.
To define more precisely extencibility factor for you favorite jersey,
try to sew this underscarf model. Then just use defined value for
other more complex models.

How to calculate extencibility factor:

1)  remember your head measurement –  bn
2) cut rectangle with side b = bn-2cm (for the fist try)
3) do temporary stitching along the line a
4) try it on, and if it is big for you cut length b for 2 cm more, try on
again
5) when it fits, remember this optimal value b and
calculate extencibility factor = b/bn
For example,  my jersey fabric I used to sew this underscarf
had extencibility factor = 42/54=0.78. Means, If I sew another type
of underscarf using this fabric, I will take this value and will not
calculate it again.
Cut the rectangle  and overlock its sides.

From one side fold up 1 -10 cm,  as you like, and hem this line. Fold
in a half right sides together and stitch sides.
It is also possible to gather a bit underscarf on the back.
  

If you want to have bands for your underscarf then you do not need
to stitch sides.  You need to make bands and better to do this using
not elastic fabric. Then we need to gather both sides and stitch to
them our bands. Do this like shown on the pictures.
 

 
  

 
How to sew underscarf
“Helika” – triangle.
helikastyle 07.08.2015 How to sew underscarf “Helika” – triangle.2017-08-
18T15:17:57+00:00Islamic Clothes, Only for members, Underscarves No Comment

I named this type of under-scarf “Underscarf Triangle”, because it makes

triangles on your cheeks. The name came from my sisters who love and
need these triangles very much.

This under-scarf covers chin itself. And should be used for loosed hijab
styles or for khimars and izdals having a hole under the face. Back side of
the head is still open to provide you possibility to put hairs down and for
better ventilation of the head ;-).

Read about all HelikaStyle underscarve here: click me.

I will give you under-scarf measurement for three head sized S, M, L. But
as we already know (I mean all readers of this blog ))) extensibility factor
still exists and it can be different for different types of jersey. So when you
sew this garment first time just don’t forget to try it on before applying
sewing machine and make adjustments if needed.

NOTE: Who fist time visits this site please review the following
publications:

 How to work with jersey without overlock and coverstitch machines 

 How to sew under-scarf tube
Important!
Please review
Site Content using and sharing Rules!
Fabric.
You need a a piece of jersey, 25-30 cm (140 cm width). It is better to use
cotton or viscose jersey having 5-8% elastane. You need regular not elastic
fabrics for the bends 5-8 см. And you need an elastic ribbon 4-6 cm length
and 1 cm width.
Cutting.
You need to cut 4 components:
All components are put in half on the picture!
1 Forehead part.  Absolutely the same as we do for underscarf-tube.
a the length of it, about 25-30cm.
b  the width of it. You need to calculate it based on your
head measurement multiplied by extensibility factor. This value has to
be divided by 2.
2 и 3 together they form bottom part of the under-scarf. I will call it
skirt. 3 front side of this skirt, 2 back part.
с the length of the skirt, also about 25-30 cm
d+e  has to be greater than b. This is because this skirt we sew with elastic
ribbon inside. When we put elastic ribbon inside, the width of the skirt will
be almost equal to b, possibly a bit less. The ribbon we need to simplify
putting onprocess and to not stretch every time the fabric.
d has to be less than e.
It has to be something like d=(b/2)-2; e=(b/2)+3 ;
4 bands, made with not elastic fabric, see here details: click me.
Who is too lazy to understand formulas please use the
following measurement but remember, I use these values for high quality
viscose jersey with 5-6% elastane. New type of fabric could need
adjustments of these values.

size S M

a        25-30 cm

b 23 cm 24 cm

c        28 cm

d 9.5 cm 9.5 cm

e 15 cm 16.5 cm

All what we cut have to be sewn in the following way:

First make the easiest part make the bands!

The length about 35 cm, the width about 5-8 cm
Take forehead part and sew with serger top and bottom lines.
Sew the skirtand also make serger sewing for top and bottom line of it.

On this step the easiest part of the work is done.

Now we need to sew forehead part and this skirt. Wider part of the skirt is
the front one covering your chin.

On the forehead part mark (with pin for instance) distance (b/2)-1 сm
measure from the left side. This is a place where we join our parts.

On the picture below the pin is marking the middle.

On the picture below I moved the pin to the middle to get distance = (b/2)-
1 сm. Or just calculate this value.
On the bottom part mark the middle of the front side:

Place bottom and top parts in the following way:

Use pins we put before on the front part to join top and bottom parts:
Thus the distance between pins on the top part will be 2 cm greater than on
the bottom part.
Then  sew starting from pins towards skirtsides seams.
Now sew top part edge.  And bottom part edge till skirtside seams.
One important point. This place of joining tip and bottom parts will be
always overloaded. Exactly here underscarf forms triangles on the cheeks.
So we need to fix it. Make an additional seam in a way shown on the
picture below. 1 mm from edge, about 1 cm of length. As result we should
fix together 4 layers of fabric.
  

Back sides edge  of the skirt has to be sewn in a way to put inside elastic
ribbon afterwords.
The length of the elastic ribbon has to make the width of your skirt the
same as forehead part width.  Put elastic ribbon in the prepared place for it
and sew from both its sides to fix it.
Last thing is to sew band. Make this in a way shown on the picture.  In the
same way like we do it for simple underscarf: click me.
  

Ready!
 
No Comments Yet

How to sew underscarf

“Helika” – open
helikastyle 04.10.2015 How to sew underscarf “Helika” – open2017-09-01T18:43:53+00:00Islamic
Clothes, Only for members, Underscarves No Comment

На русском
This is sewing tutorial for underscarf designed by HelikaStyle. This one
covers minimum but also the area under your chin!
And this kind of underscarf became my favorite one. Only for the cold
season I change to underscarf “Helika”- regular.
I wear underscarf “Helika” – open under the “Helika” hijab – one more
exclusive model from HelikaStyle. But you can wear this underscarf also
under regular scarf, khimars and even al-Amira hoods. Without scarves it
looks funny, but believe me it is very comfortable and you will love it!
Before you start to study this tutorial please get familiar with
simple underscarf-tube sewing fundamentals. This model has to be sewn in
the same manner but with additional feature.
Read also:

 All HelikaStyle underscarves presentation

 How to sew jersey without serger and cover stitch machine
Look on the picture below to understand the sewing pattern.

1. This is base part underscarf tube

a  the length of the underscarf covering a head. It can be short one about
20 cm to comer almost only forehead. And it can also be a long one even
50 cm to cove whole length of your hear. Usual standard length is 30 cm
without considering seam allowances. Seam allowance can be usual 1.5
cm and then you will have only one layer covering your forehead and ears,
or you can fold 10-15 cm to have double layers to have warmer
underscarf.
b this value equals to head_measurement*extensibility_factor. According
to my experience this factor can be about  0,75 до 0,85.
2.  This is important feature. Exacly this part of underscarf will cover your
area under chin.
The form of it is isosceles trapezoid with width 7-7.5-8 см

с the face line . I use the following values corresponding to head size
S 18 см, M 19 см, L 20 см
d = c-3 см
The sizes above so not include seam allowances. For the sides you need to
add  1.5 cm to be folded. For the face line с it can be value 1.5 cm and
more up to 7 cm (if you want double layers).
Important!
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Cut all parts of underscarf: underscarf-tube, feature and bands.
Sew face line of the featured part.

Then sew with serger (if you have this machine) other parts for feature
detail and underscarf-tube face line. Next step is the most important to
attach featured details to the underscarf-tube.
The most important here is the distance to be used to sew them. When
underscraf tube is fold in half I use usually the following values: S 9 cm,
M 10 cm L 11 cm. Measure this value from the middle of folded in half
underscarf tube along the face line. For the very elastic jersey this values
could be less than I mentioned. So please try it on before sewing.
 

 
  

After this step you need to sew face line of the underscarf tube. But do this
excluding feature detail edges.
  

And the last difficult step you need to stitch feature detail edge to base
detail edge.
  

And the last step is to stitch the bands.

  

READY!
No Comments Yet

Underscarf “Helika”
covering a neck sewing
tutorial
helikastyle 18.05.2017 Underscarf “Helika” covering a neck sewing tutorial2017-09-
01T15:17:42+00:00Islamic Clothes, Only for members, Underscarves No Comment

 На русском
This is the sewing tutorial of the underscarf designed by HelikaStyle.  This
underscarf covers under-chin area and a neck. This underscarf has a
bit enhanced pattern comparing to  underscarf “Helika” – open. Everything
is the same but this one has one more detail which will cover a neck area.
Let’s sew it together!
 Before the start! 
And again I strictly recommend you to start from the simplest underscraf-
tube and then try to sew  underscarf   “Helika” open, and then start with
this kind of underscarf. You will need each of them for you hijab, so it will
not be wasting of fabric, but you will get proper experience.
The sequence of steps should be already known for you.
Important! 
Please review
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Post contents:
 Underscarf pattern schema
 Underscarf basic part preparation
 Underscarf middle part preparation
 Joining details of the underscarf
 Underscarf bottom part covering a neck sewing
 Finishing the edges
 Sewing result
Underscarf pattern schema

where
1  basic part
2 middle part to cover area under a chin
4 neck part

Underscarf basic part preparation

Parameters of the basic part:
а  half of the width a head circumference multiplied by jersey extensibility
factor.  For example  for head-size S head circumference is 54 cm, jersey
extensibility factor can be about  0,75 , means 2*а = 54*0,78 and а = 22
cm.
b length as you wish.  I make it about 30 cm. The more  you want to leave
not covered by underscarf the less you do the length of the basic part.
Rectangle with sides a and b  it is the palf of the besic part,  so you need to
cut by putting the fabric in half. And sew with serger a edges.
Underscarf middle part preparation
The sizes of the middle part:
с  face line. For head-sizes S-M-L accordingly 9 9.5 10 cm (this is
including seam allowance about 1 cm).
d the width of the part. For head-sizes S-M-L accordingly about  7-7.5-8
cm and add 3 cm from side c for seam allowance
e = с-1.5 см
Again pay attention, c and e are the values of the half of the middle part.
Sew with serger lines c and e,  on the side  c fold about 3 cm and sew the
edge.
  

And now attach middle part to the basic part.

Joining details of the underscarf

Very important here is the distance from the middle of the basic part.
It would be helpful to iron the basic part to mark seam allowance. When I
started I made 1-1.5 cm seam allowance but it is better to do it wider 3-5
cm.
Put the basic part in half, wrong sides together. And pin the needed
distance on both sides. Everything depends on the type of the jersey. For
very stretching one you need to attach middle part closer to the middle. So
try it one before sewing with machine.  Approximate distances for
different head sized are:  S 8-9 cm, M 10-11 cm L 11-12 cm. When it fits,
sew it.
 

 
 

It is needed to sew two lines:

1 along line we iron before to mark seam allowance for the basic part.
Seam allowance for the middle part it about 1 cm!

2 and along the edge of the middle part.

When you check your result on the right side it has to look like this: no
seams are visible.
You can think that now we need to sew basic face line but it is still too
early. Before we need to attach bottom part covering a neck to the basic
part.

Underscarf bottom part covering a neck

sewing

The bottom part sizes (see schema in the beginning of the post):
f=a
g about 15-20 cm,  but you can make any length which will be comfortable
for your case

Cut the bottom part out and sew bottom and top with serger and sew the
back seam to make the tube.

The bottom part is wider than basic part.

Put it in half and move it from the middle of the basic part for 4 cm.Pin the
places where we start and finish the attaching seam the start is in the
middle of the basic part (put in half); and the end about 2 cm from middle
part edge. (On the photo below the fold line is on the left)

Then sew between pins. It will be very short distance only two needles
 
Finishing the edges
Then sew edges of the basic part and bottom part. The basic part has to be
sewn along full width, but bottom part only till the end of the attaching

seam

The rest of the bottom part edge sew in a way to put inside the
elastic ribbon
Do not pull the ribbon too much, you need to have enough place to put the
underscarf on.

And as final step you need to attach headbands.

Sewing result

 
How to sew al-Amira
hijab. Base pattern.
Detailed instructions.
helikastyle 06.05.2015 How to sew al-Amira hijab. Base pattern. Detailed instructions.2017-08-
01T17:10:30+00:00Al-Amira Hijabs, Islamic Clothes No Comment

This is very popular hijab type.  Very comfortable for young muslimah or
for active sisters. We will sew now al-Amira hijab – 2 pieces hijab, and we
will try several models. Use for this viscose jersey.

Important! 
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The first al-Amira I tried  to wear had the following design. You can see
used pattern for it. And this kind of hijab did not cover my under-chin
area.

As I wrote in the post about covering underchin area, this kind of patter
would be wrong.
The better is to design it like shown below:
, where
a – face line
b – front part length
с – back part length
d – the width of the hood

To create pattern we need to make some measurements to define the

value b: measure starting from your temple till needed length in front.

Value c = d+25 cm. 25cm or more.

Value d  has to be high enough for your breast measurement.
Bottom line of your hijab can be designed in different ways: straight,
asymmetric or wave form.

Now let’s talk about main “face” line. You have to cut this line as shown
on the picture below. In this way your al-amira hijab will cover your
under-chin area.

To calculate value for a you need to measure the head as shown below:

This value you get from measurement has to be dived by 2. And as we
sew al-amira hijab using stretch fabrics  stretch factor also has to be
applied.  For viscose jersey with elastane I use stretch factor about 0.85.
Under-scarf for amira-hijab cut as regular rectangle and sew as tube.
Please check detailed sewing tutorial for this underscarf.
You need a piece of fabric with width 150 cm and length equal to back
length of your hood. Take viscose or cotton jersey having up to 8%
elastane.

Let’s start from most regular pattern.

When you do cutting please do not forget about seam allowances.
For head size S.
Head circumference В = 56 см
а = (56/2)*0,85= 24 см
b = 45 см
c = 65 см
d = 60 см

Put right sides together in 65 cm. When you cut bottom line start it with
right angle.

For mentioned sizes I got the following al-amira hood:

  

Below please see other possible options.

Put right sides together in 45 cm, cut using our pattern. The rest of fabric
usually is enough to sew underscarf. Sew it.
The sizes for this variant:
  

This one was small for me.  The size I sewed was XS. So as you see the
length is not enough and the width has to be wider.  You can sew such
hood for girls or when you are going to use it as under-scarf.
And let’s try “wave” form.

This is the result:

Front part was too long, so I gathered it a bit.

And there is one more pattern – the best pattern I chose for my sisters.

And I described it in the separate blog post. The best

sewing pattern of the al-
Amira hijab
helikastyle 19.05.2016 The best sewing pattern of the al-Amira hijab2017-09-01T18:35:54+00:00Al-
Amira Hijabs, Islamic Clothes 1 Comment

На русском
More detailed sewing tutorial you can find here: click me.  Here I
represent the most optimal pattern (from my point of view ) for Al-Amira
hijab.

Important! 
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You will need  jersey fabric – about 70-100 cm (having width = 1.5 cm). It
is better to take viscose jesey having elastan in composition.

The pattern looks as shown on the picture below:

, where
a – the half of the following measurement, multiplied by  extensibility
factor

I use the following parameters for different head sizes:

S – a= 24 cm
M –a= 25 cm
L –a= 26 cm
b – the length of the back side – about 70 cm
d – the length of the front part – about 45 cm
The lengths of the back and front sides you can choose on your own. The
important point here that the difference between these values has to be not
less than 25 cm. The back side has to be longer.

This form of the hemline – waved – will open a bit your arms and this is
very comfortable solution for an active lifestyle.

Hemline it is better to sew with a serger rolled hem.But if you do not have
a serger, you can sew a lace to it, it is also easy way to finish a hemline.
  

Then sew with serger  “face edge” a, sew the hood sides (along the line d),
and then fold “face edge” 1-2 cm and hem this line.
How to sew knit fabric without a serger please read here: click me.
And the hood part of the al-amira hijab is ready.
Using the rest of fabric let’s sew underscarf-tube. The detailed sewing
tutorial for it here: click me.

 
  

Let’s try it on!

 
 

 
 
  

1 Comment Already

1.
Jasminn - September 13th, 2017 at 04:48noneComment author #204 on
The best sewing pattern of the al-Amira hijab by HelikaStyle
MashaAllah uchti. Thank you for helping…

Reply

How to sew islamic

pants? Kind of harem
pants pattern and sewing
class
helikastyle 26.09.2015 How to sew islamic pants? Kind of harem pants pattern and sewing class2016-
12-30T19:12:41+00:00Islamic Clothes, Islamic pants 2 Comments

It is highly recommended to wear pants under the wide skirts and abaya.
Why? Because it is more reliable. Normally we have everything covered
and for light an thin fabric it seems just underskirt is enough. But what
about unusual and unexpected situations? Windy weather, when you have
to run and then fell down, accidents and other cases when you cannot think
about your clothes? Definitely,  pants are much more reliable.

Many sisters wear jeans, and many of us also wear so called harem pants.
We sew here something in between of possible models. HelikaStyle Pants
or bloomers.
A bit of recommendations before.
It is better to sew such pants with yoke. The length of this yoke should be
till the middle of the hip. This yoke works as underskirt and if it is sewn
using thick elastic fabrics and done very tight, it will do figure correction
in the most needed part of the body. Also such yoke will prevent flying of
your abaya or skirt between your legs. The bottom part of these pants is
pants itself. Bottom part should be cut in the way we sew harem pants.
You can make them different form, height and width.
And I think any pants or jeans, or bloomers have to be fully covered with
you clothes. FULLY! Even if you do crotch line on the ankles level it must
not show up! More over on this level it will sweep the ground.
I do absolutely not like this penguins looks some sisters like to make. I am
totally against it!
  

But this is my personal opinion.

Fabric.
You can combine types of fabric. As mentioned above for yoke part you
can take thick elastic fabric and for bottom part lighter fabric. I did not
combine and sewed using light cotton having elastan in composition.
Fabric consumption: one length of the yoke and two lengths of the bottom
part considering seam allowances  = A+2B.

The length of the yoke has to be till the middle of your hip or longer.
The length of bottom part from the yoke line to the floor. The longer you
make it the more the more pants will hang over the cuffs.

If we sew all parts using same piece of fabric, we need to split it into to
parts – the yoke part and A and bottom part 2B.
Let’s cut the yoke.
If you have fabric with elastan in composition you can make the yoke
tight. Measure your hips and just add 2 cm for seam allowances.   Halve
this measurement to get value c.  If fabric is not elastic, just add 10cm.
Put the pice of fabrics we cut for the yoke as show on the picture and just
cut the unneeded piece.
Now the bottom part.
The width.  I tried to make the with of the bottom part 140 cm and also
narrower. The most practical I found more narrower width because such
big volume of fabric under clothes are very annoying.  More over if we do
narrower bottom part we will save fabric for the legs cuffs (if your fabric
has elastan in composition).
We need to prepare needed width – I cut out 30 cm from the original fabric
width.
Then put it in half. And again in half as shown on the picture. You need to
get 4 layer.
Now let’s cut our pants.  First of all you need to define the height of the
crotch line – h.  The more transparent your clothes the less value for h has
to be on your pants.

When you unfold the cut part you should get the following two details.
The legs cuffs as usual we need to sew as tubes… as usual cuffs. And now
we need to sew all cut parts.

Sew the yoke with serger . I put the seam not on the back but on the side.
Then sew the belt, do not forget to leave the hole for the elastic ribbon.

Before sewing the belt I do make usually one more thing – I also sew a
secret pocket . You know…. for some women things that sometimes have
to be close at hand…. even when your bag is not with you.
 

 
 

 
  

This pocket  you need just sew into belt inside.

This how the yoke will look inside:
Now sew the bottom parts.

And sew the cuffs to the bottom part.

 
Now sew top and bottom parts together , insert elastic ribbon. In addition I
put a cord.
And some beads for the good mood!

Ready!
  

Note: beige pants are much wider than grey pants.

 How to sew Jersey Short
Khimar? Pattern, sewing
tutorial and explanations
helikastyle 02.10.2015 How to sew Jersey Short Khimar? Pattern, sewing tutorial and
explanations2017-09-01T18:46:08+00:00Islamic Clothes, Regular khimars No Comment

На русском
Here we sew very simple khimar. If you are going to sew khimar first
time, I recommend you to start exactly with this kind of them – short one,
using jersey fabric. The pattern is known already for many of you but we
are considering here more details and all special points. Read carefully and
then start sewing!

Important!
Please review
Site Content using and sharing Rules!
Read also:

 More details about khimar and jilbabs types

 How to sew jersey without serger and cover stitch machine
So Jersey khimar!

Please remember, when we sew jersey fabric we always should consider

its extensibility factor. And because of this factor the pattern sizes for the
same khimar sewn with not elastic fabrics will have other values! And one
more thing: when we sew Jersey we have always to cut pattern following
straight grain. Please don’t cut it following the bias grain as eventually
your sewn garment will become outstretched.

Post contents:
 Short khimar pattern explanation
 Khimar details cutting schemas
o Fabric preparation for cutting
o Cutting of the front and back khimar sides
o Cutting of the khimar’s head-band
o Khimar sewing schema
 Live photos
 Newest advices
Short khimar pattern explanation
The base of the any khimar patter is triangle, which we transform to
trapeze and make round bottom. For pattern take half of the trapeze.

Before start I’d like to recommend:

 the back part of the khimar should have length  25-30 cm longer than
front one
 head-band width has to be 10 cm and has to have curly from
 bands itself have to be made from not elastic fabric
  front and back parts have to be stitched with sewing machine and not
with serger or cover stitch machine
The pattern of the short khimar looks as follows:

On the left is half of the back khimar part. On the right side – half of the
front part.

, where
a – The width of the bottom face-line
b – The width of the top face-line (for the standard models а=b)
c – The length of the garment from sides – has to be measured starting
from temple
d – The length of the garment in front (usually с+5cm)
e – The length of the garment from back side (usually d+25cm)
h – the maximum width of the head-band (usually 10 cm)
j – the width of the head-band on the ends (usually 7 cm)
For jersey khimar I recommend depending on the head size:
S  2*а = 28
M 2*а = 29
L  2*а = 30
Khimar details cutting schemas
Fabric preparation for cutting
For this kind of the khimar you will need a piece of fabrics with length
e+1cm and width=150 cm. Cut it in half to get two pieces having the width
75 cm.  Each of these pieces has to be fold in half to cut the khimar’s back
and front sides.

Cutting of the front and back khimar sides

Take one piece of the fabric put in half and you can draw the front side of
the khimar and explained above. Add 1 cm of seam allowance to the a.
And then using already cut front part you can draw and cut back side on
the second piece of the fabric. Maximum width of the khimar is limited by
width of the fabric pieces – yellow line of on the picture below. For small
sizes, for baby-girls for example you do not need to used full width.
Cutting of the khimar’s head-band
Using the rest of the fabric you can cut khimar’s head-band. Remember
when you sew jersey khimar your head-band should consist of three parts:
forehead part itself cut from the jersey; and two bands you will use to tie
khimar – and them you should cut from the non-elastic fabric.

For the forehead part you have several options: to make it two-layers, to
make it one-layes, to make it crossover. The standard design is two-layer
head-band – it will be tight enough to hold khimar on a head.

For the forehead part you need rectangle of the jersey fabric with width 43
cm and length 22 cm. 43 cm is ok for head-sizes S, M and L. For smaller
sizes you will need less and the formula is head circumference multiplied
by 0,75. 22 cm is very ok for head-sizes S and M, for L it could be 23-
24cm – it is defines the width of the head-band.  Follow the schema below:
put in half to have the with 11 cm; then put it again in half to have the
width about 21,5 cm; then cut it to give it a round form, this is needed to
let khimar to smoothly fit the head.
 Khimar sewing schema
We need to attach head-band to the back side of the khimar. Sew face line
of the front part. Sew hem line for both sides, for jersey just apply rolled
hem. And then join back and front sides.
It is better to sew  the side lines of the khimar  using sewing machine and
not with the coverstich or with serger only. In this way you
provide possibility to adapt the hijab size later when your hijab stretched
or to adapt it by your customers. It is more important when you sew
khimars for others and sell them online because you should give the
customers possibility to change the khimar’s size  easily by themselves.
The sewing machine stitches can be easily moved to fit any head size.
Think about this!

The width between side stitches (yellow line) should correspond to head
size and  for the  standard models when a = b  this width equal
to 2*a value (see pattern explanation).
Live photos
Jersey is very soft and very comfortable for the face. If you want to start
wear khimars start with this one!
Newest advices
After a while, when I’ve got more experience in such khimar sewing, I’d
like to advise you to use such form of the hem line for the back side –
yellow marked on the picture below. This will look much more attractive.
 

Iranian style al-Amira

hijab sewing tutorial
helikastyle 31.10.2015 Iranian style al-Amira hijab sewing tutorial2017-09-01T18:42:20+00:00Al-
Amira Hijabs, Islamic Clothes, Regular khimars No Comment

На русском
Some sisters name this hijab like “full coverage hijab”. Some – “hijab
covering underchin area”, or just khimar. Once I found one more name for
it – “Iranian style al-Amira hijab”.
This kind of hijab (or khimar) is sewn using knit fabric and has very
comfortable detail – triangle on the bottom face line. And it can be put on
underscarf or without underscarf, when it has special visor.

I do not like visors, I do not like to sew them as it is difficult to have the
same cutting for it for all sizes and it is difficult to guess. That is why in
most cases, even when this hijab has visor, sister wear it with underscarf.
When you sew hijab for yourself you have a chanсe to make it with proper
form and size.
We will try three possible options!

Important! 
Please review
Site Content using and sharing Rules!
You need jersey fabric – a piece with width 1.5m and length 1m. If you
want to sew shorter  hijab you need less fabric – shorter length.

Read also:

 More details about khimar and jilbabs types

 How to sew jersey without serger and cover stitch machine
The cutting is the following:

On the picture above you see how to fold fabric and how to cut the base
part of the hijab.
I had
A – 150 cm
B –  100 cm
C – 70 cm

This figurate bottom line is the best one! It looks very womanly and very
beautiful.

Remember that the best difference between front and back lengths
(С and B) is 25-30 cm or more.

Sew all sides with serger.

How to sew bottom line for this khimar?  This figurate line is not easy to
fold so we have two options: rolled hem or … to use the lace.
Let’s talk about under-chin area. Here we have also two options. First one
is small triangle – it will be tight to your face. Second one it to do larger
triangle to have more free space under your hijab.

The visor.. I can honestly tell you that I tried several times different ways
of sewing these visors. I did not like any of them but show to you one of
the best visor I got.

These parts you should cut from the rest of you fabric.
D – half of the width of the under-chin triangle – about 14 cm considering
seam allowances
E – the length of the under-chin triangle – about 25 cm considering seam
allowances
F –  the length of the visor  – about 13.5 cm considering seam allowances
G – half of the width of the visor   – about 14 cm considering seam
allowances

!!! Important:  these values are for the head size M considering

extensibility factor (read about it here: click here). For other head sizes
you will need to adapt values for about  +-0.5 cm.

Cut under-chin triangle and visor and sew edges. These parts can be cut
also in double-layer way to have them  more tight.
  

Now I advise you to sew in a way “do step and try it on”.

If you do not have underscarf-tube you can sew it from the rest of your
fabric. Just follow these instructions: click me
  

Pin under-chin triangle on the distance about 12 cm from the center using
1 cm seam allowances. And try it on – put it on the underscarf. If you feel
it like too loose you need either to make shorter distance from the center or
to make bigger seam allowance. If it sit too tight then you need to put
under-chin triangle down, so make distance more than 12 cm. When it is
ok sew it!
  

First try to wear it with visor.

By the way, to cut proper size visor you could also do the following: take
existent underscarf tube, put on prepared hood with already attached
under-chin triangle and draw the visor right on your head with chalk (or
piece of soap). Then just re-draw the picture from your underscarf and cut
needed figure.
Attach it to the hood.
As you see on the picture below this hijab has big triangle under-chin
detail and hijab does not fit to the head without a help. When I put it on I
had a wish to move it more to the back and in this way I would need again
to wear underscarf. This happens because for the face part there is not
enough tension.  To solve this elastic ribbon has to be sewn to be put on
the back of your head.
When you start to use elastic ribbon the visor will be tight to you head and
in this case you will not need to use underscarf.
It is also possible to make very narrow visor and put hijab on the
underscarf.  Elastic ribbon also can be used. The visor in this case has a
role of pipping.

I liked  the model of this hijab without visor at all. And elastic ribbon is
not needed in this case. It is like very wide al-amira hijab that covers
carefully area under the chin.
  

Ready!
How to make khimar
longer…
helikastyle 12.12.2015 How to make khimar longer…2017-09-01T18:40:40+00:00About hijab in
details, Islamic Clothes, Regular khimars No Comment
 На русском
Once one sister asked me to make her khimars longer. And here I explain
what I did to help her ).
If you have old hijab having damaged hemline or you also want to make
one longer, here you can find the way.

I forgot again to make photos for each step  but I show some schemas, see
below.
Let’s assume we have one khimar. Put it in half like shown on the picture.

Now cut hemline straightly – make triangle line for the front and back
sides.  If your khimar initially had triangle form, then just cut some width.
And know khimar is ready for nice upgrade.
You need a piece of fabric. I want to warn you, you will need the big
piece, probably more than 1 meter.

You need to cut four parts:

, where
А – a component for the back part  – 2 pieces
В – a component for the front part  – 2 pieces
b –  the width needed to extend khimar length in front
c –  the width needed to extend khimar length on the sides
a – the width needed to extend khimar length on the back. Remember that
the khimar’s back has to be a least 20 cm longer than the front side.
So as you see these components are not just flat strips, and this will cause
high expenditure of the fabric.
  

To save fabric these strips can be cut into several pieces.

Cut the fabric. You can you chiffon and it bring more tenderness to the
khimar style. You you can combine colors. You to make folds. Or laces….
Or something else.

Sew first lines l, and only then sew lines  a, b, c:

This can be your result!

  

Or like this one. By the way to make folds you need to make strips longer
that khimar’s measurements.
  

How to sew khimar-

poncho, very long khimar.
helikastyle 25.05.2016 How to sew khimar-poncho, very long khimar.2017-09-
01T18:33:44+00:00Islamic Clothes, Khimar-poncho, Recent Posts, Regular khimars No Comment

На русском
We have already tried to sew jersey khimar-niqab, small and narrow one,
with cutting along lengthwise grain.  Here we will try to create a pattern
for long khimar for crepe fabric and we will sew so called by me “khimar-
poncho”.

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Prepare 2-2.5 meters of the fabric. How to calculate needed length of
fabric please see below, it depends on length of the ready garment.  By the
way I do not recommend to use jersey fabric for very long khimar models.

As we know already the base for the pattern is a triangle. The optimal
choice is the 90 degrees triangle.
where
а – “face edge” –  the value depends on the head size, chosen fabric and
the way of cutting. Below I give exemplary values for this parameter.
b – side edge – the length of the khimar on sides you need to measure
starting from the temple till the needed length.
We need the following two parts: from part and back part. They are almost
the same form but the back part has to be 20-30 cm longer,  and even
much more longer if you want noticeable asymmetry.
where
с – the length of the fron part, which we measure starting from the temple
d – the length of the back part,  this one can be measured starting from the
vertex till needed length + 10 cm, or we can calculate it as  с=d+30cm.
One more part of the khimar pattern is a headband. This one has to be cut
like we do here: click me.
When all measurements are on the table we can calculate a size of the
needed piece of the fabric.
If fabric allows to cut along bias, do this. The following facts can prevent
to do so: 1) if fabric has elastan in composition 2) if jersey was chosen, 3)
if fabric has prints or colored in specific ways or has specific lightning; in
all these cases fabric should be cun along lengthwise grain.

Please see below the way of cutting along bias:

where
h –  the width of the fabric piece, usually 140-150 cm
j – the length of the fabric piece, you will need j = 2b + 50cм
During the step #2  it is not enough just to fold fabric in half, there is a
need to cut along the fold.  Khimar has to have two seams.

When you cut this ways the lengths с and d are limited. Max value for d =
1,4*(b+25)-20, approximately. But it is still enough to make pretty long
khimar.
Please see below the way of cutting along lengthwise grain:
where
h –  the width of the fabric piece, usually 140-150 cm
j – the length of the fabric piece, с + b + seam allowances
If you want to make the back side much more longer than front side it is
more economical to cut along lengthwise grain.
The headband it is always possible to cut from the rest of the fabric.

Let’s back to the value а.

If fabric has elastan in composition or jersey is in use then take for a 32
см (1 cm is seam allowance for each side). If you sew for yourself then by
try and cut process you will be able to define the best value for you.
According to my experience for head size S a=28 cm (this is without seam
allowances).

If fabric is not elastic than the start value for a = 37 cm (1 cm is seam
allowance for each side). A lot of thing influence the value in this case a:
thickness of fabric, fluidity and cutting way we reviewed above. So it is
difficult to predict strict value per head size.  Take 37 cm  try it on, if it is
too big make a smaller and try it on again. Usually I take about 32-33
cm  for head size S (this is without seam allowances).

One more important note.  Please pay attention that listed values for a
also depends on the width of the headband. I recommend make the width
of the headband about 10-11 cm and values given above exactly for the
width 10 cm (without seam allowances).
And I want to repeat again: when you sew to sell khimars please sew
seams in two steps: serger and the regular sewing machine stitch. Do
not use only serger or only cover-stitch machine;  when you sew with
sewing machine you will give your customers possibility to adapt
khimars for theirs head sizes, because sewing machine stitch can be
easily removed and moved.
The pattern is ready? Let’s sew it!

Cut the back and the front part.

  

From the rest of fabric we need to sew khimar headband.

Hem the “face edge” а on the front part.
Sew on the headband to the back part. Mark the middle of the line а on the
back side and the middle of headband, join and sew them.

 
Sew on  the back and the front khimar parts :
During this step when you sew first time using chosen type of fabric you
will need to try on and correct the value of а .
If you sew to sell it, take approximate maximum value and seam
allowances will give possibility to your clients to adapt it to theirs head
sizes.

And the last step is to sew hemline.

I highly recommend to sew hemline fist via basting, then iron it and only
then sew with sewing machine. This all is needed to avoid the following
result:
We will follow the rules:
 

 
  

That is it! Congratulations! ))

This is the base pattern for many khimar models and I recommend to try it
and to study it because we will back to this sewing tutorial many times.
 

 
 
  

The spread is 90 degrees.  I saw the models where front part was cut with
smaller angle. But for khimar-poncho I recommend to not cut this way and
do 90 degrees, this will be more comfortable.
Khimar-poncho is the model without sleeves and cuffs , so when you lift
up your hand khimar will fall down on you shoulder but front part will
stay as is in case you cut it with 90 degrees angle.
HelikaStyle
Khimar&Jilbeb – special
khimars and all possible
designs
helikastyle 03.08.2016 HelikaStyle Khimar&Jilbeb – special khimars and all possible designs2017-
09-01T18:32:13+00:00HelikaStyle recommends!, Islamic Clothes, Only for members 1 Comment

На русском

I drew dozen of patterns versions, I spent meters of fabric, and as usual by

following “trial and error” method, by tending to find the most
comfortable and beautiful hijab I have learnt how to sew these khimars,
how to make patterns and to adapt them for different needs. On this page
you find an overview of the models developed by me and general
recommendations.
 All what I got and can recommend for others I split into groups and
describe each below.

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Post contents:
 Khimars bottom face-line design type
 Khimarstop (forehead) face-line design types
 KHIMAR STYLE DESIGNS
o Regular Khimars
o Khimar-poncho
o Khimar-cape
o Khimar-kaftan
o Khimar-kimono
o Khimars with long sleeves

Khimars bottom face-line design type

 known model khimar-niqab is the best choice. It is called Khimar-
niqab because bottom face-line can be made a bit smaller and put on
your nose and in such way you will get the covered face. But this
way is not comfortable as niqab should be easily removable from the
face and it should breath. So khimar-niqab is just the name to define
the base pattern and we cut them in a way to wear bottom face-line
on the chin only

   when khimar is made using not elastic fabric, I suggest to double

the bottom face-line with jersey piece to sew one more layer under
the original one. This will ensure that the khimar is fixed on the chin,
and also when khimar is moved (when you are eating for example)
this second layer will still keep the chin covered. What do you think?
  khimars with triangle or another form jersey gusset inserted for the
chin-area the same as the important part  of the Iranian Style al-
Amira hijab, this hijab we already made together.
You will need to use jersey piece for you khimar only if you use not elastic
fabric. If you are going to make whole khimar using jersey fabric, you will
not need any additional gusset.
Khimarstop (forehead) face-line design
types

 single cut no additional cuttings for headband

 set inheadband

 combined style
KHIMAR STYLE DESIGNS
Almost everyone who design clothes give them special names. For me it is
more native to give the names which will hint the style.

Regular Khimars
Islamic headdress (without sleeves).

 mini having shoulder-length. Can be used as underscarves.

 midi covering shoulders and breast
 maxi this is already khimar poncho, see below.
Design it how do you want! I like very much strong assymenty- backside
much longer than front side.
Khimar-poncho
But you know what is poncho, dont you? And this khimar type is overhead
poncho!
You probably met such already very long khimar with cuffs or without
them.
Khimar-cape
or overhead cape )). Similar to the khimar-poncho but with  slits for the
hands.
You can do even maxi length and different forms of the bottom area. This
one is good for windy weather, the slits with the hands in them will keep
khimar on his place even when you meet a storm.
Khimar-kaftan
Looks similar to kaftans but with overhead effect. This one is good for
cold season to put it on outerwear or just on abaya having long wide
sleeves.
Khimar-kimono
It is something in between the izdal and khimar-kaftan. It has sleeves but
short ones kimono or dolman.
Khimars with long sleeves
Izdal, or overhead abayas, or French Jilbabs, etc. All are having long
sleeve.
Honestly speaking I do not recommend floor-length for the overhead
abayas. Anyway to put on only such abaya on the body is not possible, you
will need to have pants, skirt or dress under it. The hemline will always
sweep earth and in the same time will pull up together with your hands
independently of the length of the sleeves (Unless you do all body
movements very-very carefully). Thus I think the best length is calf-length
and under it are skirts or dresses.
And you have plenty possibilities to design such khimars individually .
And for each such khimar you can add pockets, laces, color combinations,
frills, pleats, sling solutions and so on. Just remember that there is a
measure in all things.

Khimar-cape. One of the

possible styles of the
khimar with slits for the
hands
helikastyle 09.08.2016 Khimar-cape. One of the possible styles of the khimar with slits for the
hands2017-09-01T18:31:00+00:00Islamic Clothes, Khimar-cape, Recent Posts 2 Comments

На русском
I know four ways to sew khimars with slits for the hands. As I described in
the review I split such styles in two type: khimar-kaftan and khimar-cape.
Here we try khimar-cape which is better to sew after successful try of
the khimar-poncho. The pattern of khimar-poncho is the base for many
styles of khimars and French Jilbabs.
Khimars with the slits for hand are very comfortable for active persons,
when you need to do a lot of body movements – your hands will be free
(but covered by long sleeves of the dress you put under the khimar). More
comfort for doing the job, taking care about children and for big amount of
bags.

The simplest way to sew khimar-cape: when you sew khimar-poncho do

not sew on fully the sides seams. Only one important point – the khimar
has to be long enough in the hand sides.
This is the result:
 Important!
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I made it using crepe-de-chine, 100% natural silk with two colors – front
side is grey, back side is black. The owner of it was very happy!

Let’s cut it. Remember that back side has to be  25-30 cm longer than front
side. I made even longer than 30 cm.
  

Prepare headband and sew it on the back side.

  

Start to sew sides. Use sewing machine and not just coverstich! When you
sew do not forget to leave slits for the hand like shown on the picture
below – about 40 cm to sew , then 40 cm leave as slit and then sew the
rest.
Then sew the slits and the hemline.
The form and style of the bottom area make as you wish.
  

 
Khimar-kaftan pattern.
One more khimar with
slits for the hands
helikastyle 04.09.2016 Khimar-kaftan pattern. One more khimar with slits for the hands2017-09-
01T18:28:41+00:00Islamic Clothes, Khimar-caftan, Recent Posts No Comment

На русском
Who is following our khimar sewing series, those are able to sew already
almost everything!  You just need to apply fantasy on your knowledge and
then you will design plenty of possible hijab models!

Here, on this page, we sew khimar-kaftan.

This is very comfortable model of the so called “French jilbabs”. You can
make it any length, and wear on the abaya or outwear.  It is comfortable
for your hand movements. And it became very popular among sisters.
 Important!
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We start from the pattern, we should learn how to built it using khimar
base pattern. By the way, you need to study this sewing tutorial, if you
missed it, to understand the base pattern: click me.
So, we know already khimar-poncho, it has long sides, fully covering the
hands. From time to time it can disturb and there is a need to open the
hands.  One of the possible solutions we tried and made khimar-cape.  But
khimar-kaftan will change the form of your dress and will give you
possibility to make it any length , even floor-length, very easily.  More
over this pattern is the base for creation more complex models.

We will change the base khimar patter in the following way – see pictures
below.  We need to cut unnecessary parts from the sides and that is it!
After doing this, you will just need to align the bottom lines.
If you do simply like shown on the schemas, khimar will have some
shortcomings. I know, because I tried it! I did many experiments and
found one way to avoid them. So let’s start to sew!

First we make the pattern.

where
а – face line – depends on the head size and chosen fabric type. Make it
about 17-18 cm – this is maximum value you may need (when head-band
width is 10 cm)
b – sides line – the length of the khimar from sides, measure it starting
from your temple along the hand till needed length. You need to draw this
line with 45 degree angle relating to line с
с – the length of the khimar from the front side, measure the length starting
from your temple till needed length –  this line is the fold line of the
khimar front part
g –  the half of the khimar width
The lengths b and g  depend on each other:  the more you want to cover
the hand, the wider khimar will become.
Important note:  the wider you make the khimar,  the more roundish
line b has to be,  see on the photos below!
The bottom line (hem line) you can make roundish, or make it figured or
gather it, etc. We will do it in the next sewing tutorials, but I have to warn
you, all this kind of designing will not suit slim sisters. This I also know
from my experience.

The cutting.
We need to cut this kind of khimar along lengthwise grain! You can do it
along bias, but this will limit the possible khimar width.
The fabrics has to be soft and light enough but not transparent.
You will need a piece of fabric with length  = 2*с+30 cm. These 30 cm we
discussed already in previous sewing tutorials.
Fold whole piece in half along lengthwise grain

First we cut using created above pattern. Put it along the folded line and
cut.
Then using the rest of the fabric piece and same patter cut the back side. I
do it as shown on the picture:
The pattern has to be placed at an angle to the fabric fold line.  The more
dress-size you wear the bigger angle has to be used.

On the picture above :

d = c + 30 cm
e – is delta we need to add to the back part – special HelikaStyle feature –
I do then about 3 pleats using this delta and this gives special look to the
khimar back side.  For 3 pleats you will need about 18 cm. But you also
can skip this, if you do not need this feature.
This kind of cutting for the back part is necessary to align it to the front
part. Combination of this angle and pleats give very pretty solution for
khimras with middle length.

From the rest of fabric cut the headband – details see also here: click me .

Here what I got.  The left picture – the front side, the right picture – the
back side. Pay attention on the sleeve line!
  

If you have enough fabric left you can cut headband as 1-piece. Or you can
cut 3 pieces – the middle part and two bands .

Sew the front part’s face line. And sew the headband on the back side.
  

Now you should join front and back parts. Do it like shown below:
Put them together face to face and align sleeve lines (blue and green). Sew
them in the way to leave the width  k between seams, which will
correspond to your head-size.  Each kind of fabric will require different
value for k for the same head-size, so you need to start and try it on before
the use of sewing machine.  Start from the value = 34 cm.

Then you should sew both sides, but not fully. You should leave slits
having width  m – chose any value which will suit you. If you add addition
length e for pleats, do not forget to make them before starting to sew!

Then sew the hem line!

  

It is ready!
  

 
Khimar-poncho with
sleeves and jersey gusset
for the chin area
helikastyle 01.10.2016 Khimar-poncho with sleeves and jersey gusset for the chin area2017-09-
01T16:53:48+00:00Islamic Clothes, Khimar with sleeves, Khimar-poncho, Recent Posts No
Comment

На русском
This time we sew khimar-poncho having sleeves and we will try to make
khimar more comfortable for the face – we will insert a jersey gusset for
the chin area.
To sew this kind of khimar I took natural silk fabric and jersey. Jersey was
used for mentioned gusset and for cuffs on the sleeves.
 Important!
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Do the cutting in the same way we did for usual khimar-poncho: click me. 
For the from and back lengths you can chose any value, like you want; but
remember that back side has to be at least 20-25 cm longer.  But sides
lengths have to measured carefully because we are doing khimar with
sleeves – measure it from your temple  till you wrist and add 2-3 cm.

Cut all parts, prepare the headband (see other tutorials) and sew headband
on the back side.
 
Now let’s work a bit with the front part of our future khimar. Now we will
insert a jersey gusset.
I recommend to use triangle form or semicircle, because it is important to
have acute angles near your temples, otherwise this gusset can change by
sight your face form. The like to use triangle gussets. To sew it in front
part we need to cut the front part in half and then procedure will be almost
the same like we did for Iranian style al-Amira hijab.
So cut the front part it half, cut out triangle from it and then cut same form
of jersey. When you cut jersey do not forget about seam allowances – 1cm
– they will transform triangle to the trapezium with one side = 2cm.
Another side of this trapezium has to be about 28-29 см.
As front part was cut in half, we need to sew it with seam allowance = 1
cm. On the top you need to leave 1 cm not sewn.  Then sew the jersey part
in.
 

 
 
 
Then sew the cuffs.
Then proceed to sew khimar like we did before (in other sewing tutorials)
but in addition let’s  sew bottom like – about 30 cm from each side. Here
you will need to leave slits for the cuffs.

The slit size has to be 1-1.5 см wider, than the jersey cuff width. Sew the
cuff in khimar by gathering the base fabric.
 
And sew the hem line.
It is ready!
 

 
 
Khimar Kaftan mini
designing. Combination
with jersey.
helikastyle 05.07.2017 Khimar Kaftan mini designing. Combination with jersey.2017-09-
01T14:55:25+00:00Islamic Clothes, Khimar-caftan, Khimars and jilbabs No Comment

 На русском
I really loved this khimar. It looked sooo cute. Nice and comfortable: mini
length (mini possible for the jilbab), very convenient face lines,  with very
modest decoration: jersey underchin gusset and same color jersey strip,
folded and sewn to the front part.

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This post is not a detailed sewing tutorial. I just wanted to show how it is
possible to design jilbab-khimar when you know already the base
pattern. All details for the base pattern and sewing explanations you can
find in previous publications. Go back to the series and start from the
beginning if needed.
Read also:
How to make underchin jersey gusset we studying here: click me. Please
refer to this sewing tutorial to learn details.
So cut jersey gusset, jersey strip to decorate the front bottom line and cut
the khimar part itself with desired length.
So the feature of this khimar is design of the front part. It consist of 4 part:
jersey underchin gusset, jersey bottom line folded strip and two parts of
the front side. We need two part just to properly  attach underchin gusset.
Sew everything together: join all front side parts, attach head-band to the
back side, sew front and back sides and sew ham line and slits for the
hands.
Ready!
Izdal or Maxi Jilbab With
Sleeves Sewing Tutorial
helikastyle 01.09.2017 Izdal or Maxi Jilbab With Sleeves Sewing Tutorial2017-09-
01T18:27:26+00:00Islamic Clothes, Khimar with sleeves, Khimars and jilbabs No Comment

На русском
If you have not tried to sew any other models with us, please do so.
Because we studying starting from easier models and moving to more
complex. So please check existing sewing tutorials and start from the
beginning.
French jibab or izdal or overhead abay, or let’s just call it khimar with
sleeves. The basic pattern for it (them) is khimar-kaftan. You just need to
add sleeves! Very simple!

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In this sewing tutorial we will learn how to sew maxi-khimar or maxi
jilbab or so called izdal. Sisters liked this one shown on the photo with
color combination.  But after I tried to wear it, I have got my opinion that
this models are not safe and absolutely not comfortable.  But I will explain
everything on a course of sewing tutorial.

Post contents:
 Fabric consumption
 Which fabric to choose for izdal
 Cutting
o About the bottom hem line
o Khimar details photo
o Sleeves
 Khimar sewing
 Result (izdal photo)
 Shortcomings of the maxi khimars
Read also:
Fabric consumption
We have separate article explaining the fabric consumption for different
hijab types.
If you have already studied previous sewing tutorials, you know, that the
basic formula two length A plus 30 cm, where A  is the desired length of
the khimar from the front measured from the temple. In so doing, you will
get the back side longer than the front side of the khimar.
But when you sew maxi khimar, floor-length khimar, you can do also the
same, if you do not mind, to sweep pavement with your clothes. I know for
sure that plus 30 cm is too much, but exact raise value I cannot tell you.
You know why? Everything depends on a hairdo you have. Yep. If you do
not do not put your hair in bun, but let hair hang down in back, it would be
enough to have +10 instead of +30cm. Otherwise you will need more.

But somehow, in seeking an even hem, we are getting small disadvantage

– when you tilt your head forward hem of the khimar from the back side
rides up. And this is very annoying for me. This is one of the reasons why
I prefer middle length jilbabs having major asymmetry – back side much
longer than front side, and in this case when you tilt you head no
difference is noticed.

As summary, for those, who still want to have floor-length khimar, you
will need a piece of fabric with length = 2*A + 20cm (width = 140-
150cm).
Which fabric to choose for izdal
For maxi khimar you definitely need light fabric! Light, soft and easy
drapery fabric. The bigger fabric consumption the more weight will have
khimar, the more often it slides off.

But lighter fabric more transparent…. So you anyway will need to put
under such khimar a dress or skirt, or islamic wide pants on …

Cutting
You should go back and study the pattern of the khimar kaftan. It is
useless to repeat it again. So just start from that model and then from the
rest of fabric just cut sleeves.
About the bottom hem line
Some details about pattern reviewed we above.  For the floor-length
khimar we need the hemline without asymmetry, it is not needed that it
will lay on the floor neither from the back, no from sides.

Remember, that we never do straight bottom hem line when we sew dress
or skirt? We always do it curved. This is done to not let the garment to
hang from sides.  Same for floor-length khimar (or overhead abaya).

The wider khimar, the more we cut on sides!

  

But due to for such khimar the part of the sleeves, the bodice and
anything else is one piece of fabric, when you raise your hands,
khimar shows everything what you have under it. That is  why you
anyway need to put on the skirt or dress under it. And even very long
sleeves, which theoretically could prevent this, still will not help in all
cases. Thus the floor-length will not get rid of the multi-layering.
As option, you can do the bottom hem line not so wide, and only about 75
cm. This will create the “butterfly” form, and you will not nee to cut a lot
from sides.

The feature of my khimar is color combination.  I did it only because of

lack of red fabric…but result inspired many of you.

Khimar details photo

Here is the results of my cutting:
Do not do it like I did.  Especially is you are beginner in sewing. Before
cutting fabric has to be ironed!  You should never cut wrinkled fabric. Do
not forget about pre-washing if it is allowed for the fabric type.

Sleeves
About sleeves… I got some (most probably) correct comments concerning
sleeves width. Narrow sleeves show the form of the arms. But if you have
to work in khimar/jilbab, and you have to work in place where wide sleeve
affects your job or even contradicts safe working conditions, I suppose to
have narrow sleeve would be better than show off the arm itself. And
Allah knows the best.

If you make the value  b longer (see the pattern of khimar-kaftan), then
you will be able to use whole sleeve length when working, this will hold
khimar,  and when you go out you will be able to gather the sleeves into
cuffs and khimar will hide and cover your arm form.
Khimar sewing
I made a headband (we know already how, if you do not know please see
other sewing tutorials, for easier models). Back-side decoration  and basic
parts ware joined and head-band was attached to the back side. Then I
sewed back and front sides (sew front face line before). So all steps are the
same like for khimar-kaftan, but when you sew sides of the khimar you
need to leave slits only for sleeves and not so big as we do in case of
khimar-kaftan. Make several folds on the back details or do not make, as
you wish.  Then attach prepared sleeves. And then try it on and check the
hem line. Cut it if needed and when it fits, stitch it.
Result (izdal photo)
Shortcomings of the maxi khimars
I made very wide khimar with very wide hemline. And for me this khimar
was very uncomfortable.  Maybe it is matter of habit.   But it is ok to stay
in it and walk straight.  But to pray in it… is dangerous – you can hurt
yourself, the hemline is constantly causing problems. More over,  when
you tilt forward, a part of khimar lays down on the floor, and you can
easily step on it and stumble,  or it can get under baby carriage.

An inner belt can help to alleviate this situation –  we need to sew a belt
loop along the waist line inside. The longer belt loop is, the more tight
khimar will look on the waist line, so it is enough to cut 5-8cm.
This khimar from the photo I sewed for myself, so after all I actually cut
the length to get midi khimar.  It is more comfortable.
Middle length also looks very nice! See example below: this time it is a set
– grey khimar+red skirt:

 
HelikaStyle
Khimar&Jilbeb – special
khimars and all possible
designs
helikastyle 03.08.2016 HelikaStyle Khimar&Jilbeb – special khimars and all possible designs2017-
09-01T18:32:13+00:00HelikaStyle recommends!, Islamic Clothes, Only for members 1 Comment

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I drew dozen of patterns versions, I spent meters of fabric, and as usual by

following “trial and error” method, by tending to find the most
comfortable and beautiful hijab I have learnt how to sew these khimars,
how to make patterns and to adapt them for different needs. On this page
you find an overview of the models developed by me and general
recommendations.
 All what I got and can recommend for others I split into groups and
describe each below.

Important!
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Post contents:
 Khimars bottom face-line design type
 Khimarstop (forehead) face-line design types
 KHIMAR STYLE DESIGNS
o Regular Khimars
o Khimar-poncho
o Khimar-cape
o Khimar-kaftan
o Khimar-kimono
o Khimars with long sleeves

Khimars bottom face-line design type

 known model khimar-niqab is the best choice. It is called Khimar-
niqab because bottom face-line can be made a bit smaller and put on
your nose and in such way you will get the covered face. But this
way is not comfortable as niqab should be easily removable from the
face and it should breath. So khimar-niqab is just the name to define
the base pattern and we cut them in a way to wear bottom face-line
on the chin only

   when khimar is made using not elastic fabric, I suggest to double

the bottom face-line with jersey piece to sew one more layer under
the original one. This will ensure that the khimar is fixed on the chin,
and also when khimar is moved (when you are eating for example)
this second layer will still keep the chin covered. What do you think?
  khimars with triangle or another form jersey gusset inserted for the
chin-area the same as the important part  of the Iranian Style al-
Amira hijab, this hijab we already made together.
You will need to use jersey piece for you khimar only if you use not elastic
fabric. If you are going to make whole khimar using jersey fabric, you will
not need any additional gusset.
Khimarstop (forehead) face-line design
types

 single cut no additional cuttings for headband

 set inheadband

 combined style
KHIMAR STYLE DESIGNS
Almost everyone who design clothes give them special names. For me it is
more native to give the names which will hint the style.

Regular Khimars
Islamic headdress (without sleeves).

 mini having shoulder-length. Can be used as underscarves.

 midi covering shoulders and breast
 maxi this is already khimar poncho, see below.
Design it how do you want! I like very much strong assymenty- backside
much longer than front side.
Khimar-poncho
But you know what is poncho, dont you? And this khimar type is overhead
poncho!
You probably met such already very long khimar with cuffs or without
them.
Khimar-cape
or overhead cape )). Similar to the khimar-poncho but with  slits for the
hands.
You can do even maxi length and different forms of the bottom area. This
one is good for windy weather, the slits with the hands in them will keep
khimar on his place even when you meet a storm.
Khimar-kaftan
Looks similar to kaftans but with overhead effect. This one is good for
cold season to put it on outerwear or just on abaya having long wide
sleeves.
Khimar-kimono
It is something in between the izdal and khimar-kaftan. It has sleeves but
short ones kimono or dolman.
Khimars with long sleeves
Izdal, or overhead abayas, or French Jilbabs, etc. All are having long
sleeve.
Honestly speaking I do not recommend floor-length for the overhead
abayas. Anyway to put on only such abaya on the body is not possible, you
will need to have pants, skirt or dress under it. The hemline will always
sweep earth and in the same time will pull up together with your hands
independently of the length of the sleeves (Unless you do all body
movements very-very carefully). Thus I think the best length is calf-length
and under it are skirts or dresses.
And you have plenty possibilities to design such khimars individually .
And for each such khimar you can add pockets, laces, color combinations,
frills, pleats, sling solutions and so on. Just remember that there is a
measure in all things.