LESSON 3

Common terms used in the KARATE Trainings and Practices

English term Japanese term
One ichi
Two Ni
Three San
Four Si
Five gu
Six ruku
Seven sichi
Eight Hatchi
Nine ku
Ten ju
Formation seiritsul
Yes sir Hai
form/ attention Hieko dachi
Left/ Right hidari/ migi
Greetings ozz/ oze
Stop yami
Kneeling position sieza
Cross leg anza
(setting position)
Go/ proceed Jajumi
Instructor sensie
Assistant Instructor sempia
Bow rie
Student Shimasi
Red shiro
Blue akka
Bow to the front shomeni rie
Bow to instructor sensie nga tani rie

Bow to the master shihan nga tani rie

Bow to the assistant sempai nga tani rie
instructor
Belt Obe
Younger brother kohai
Younger sister kohai gata
Gym dojo
Full point Wazarri
Ready yoi
Thank you Arigato
Kumite sparring
STANCES (Dachi)
The punches, strikes, kicks and blocks that you will read and demonstrate are all
delivered in one of the three main Shotokan stances: front stance (Zenkutsu dachi); horse or
straddle leg stance (kiba dachi) and back stance (kokutsu dachi). Stance training is vital in your
development. If you cannot control the legs and hips, how will you ever be able to deliver a
technique properly? Your stance is your foundation, so make sure it’s strong one. A common
mistake when stepping form one stance to the next is the addition of extra movements. This is
bad form, and to be avoided.

1. FRONT STANCE (ZENKUTZU DACHI)

Front stance is the first stance taught to a karate student and the most commonly used
stance in karate training. When making front stance, it is important that the stance isnt’t too long
or too wide. Too long will inhibit movement; too wide and you will find yourself off balance. At
first you will learning stances hard work, as the position will seem quite unnatural. They are also
very demanding on the leg muscles, but don’t give up and male high, weak stances- this will
hinder your progress later on. Strong stances make for strong karate.

*** Points to remember***

1. always keep your back straight – never lean.

2. when moving, keep at the same level. Don’t move up and down.
3. as you start to step, push off hard through the rear leg, like a sprinter out of the blocks.
At the midpoint, as your feet meet, use the supporting leg to drive you on.
*In front view the legs should be hip-width or shoulder width apart. Check that the upper
body isn’t leaning to the left or right. You will often hear Japanese sensei shouting “push
stomach” meaning “keep your back straight” don’t lean. To check if your stance is deep enough,
look down at your front leg: if you can see your beg toe, you are too high, so bend a little more
until your toe is hidden by your knee.
2. BACK STANCE (KOKUTZU DACHI)
Back stance is one of the hardest movements to master in karate and because of this it is
often neglected. The difficulty arises from the fact that the movement is alien to most people.
Back stance demands that the karateka must work with his heels in line, making balance
awkward. As well as having 70 percent of the weight on the rear leg and 30 percent on the front
leg, the knees must br pushed out at right angles to one another and the hips must be kept level.
Back stance is found in nearly all kata, so it is vital to come to terms with it at an early stage in
your karate training or your kata will suffer.
*** Points to remember***

1. don’t make the stance too long or the rear knee will dip inwards. Remember to push
out the knees.
2. Don’t stamp when stepping.
3. there is a tendency to lean backwards in this stance, so make sure you keep both hips
level.
4. start slowly and work on smooth movement on a level plane.

3. STRADDLE STANCE (KIBA DACHI)

Horse, or straddle leg stance is similar to back stance in that the heel are in line, only here
both feet are turned in and the knees are pushed out. This aids balance. It is particularly
demanding on the legs and knee joints, but is a very powerful stance, and you should feel rooted
to the spot when it is executed correctly. Always keep your back straight and don’t fall into the
trap of leaning back. At first you will find it very tiring on the leg muscles, but (as with all karate
training) don’t give in and come up out of the stance – stick with it and reap the rewards.
*** Points to remember***

1. Stretch well before using this stance, as it makes great demands on the muscles and
joints.
2. you should always feet that the weight is evenly proportioned between both legs.
3.avoid moving up and down when delivering the technique keep level.

PUNCHING (Zuki)
The first step in learning to punch is making correct karate fist. Making the fist is straight
forward enough; conditioning it into a powerful weapon is another matter. This can only be done
through rigorous training. In the past, karateka would strike straw pads called “makiwara”. These
rough striking posts were used as a conditioning tool, and were the place where karateka honed
their kime. Nowadays, however, the makiwara is rarely seen in a dojo. As a rule, in basic training
karate punches travel in a straight line from the hip. The fist, which is inverted at the starting
point, rotates only upon impacting with the target. The karateka should aim to hit the target with
the two most prominent knuckles of the fist.
1. Straight punch (Choku Zuki)
It is the classic karate punch, delivered in a straight line to the target, the fist traveling
inverted from the hip but rotating at the point of impact. Correct timing of the technique is
essential, so start slowly but with feeling. Don’t just think of the punching arm – remember to
develop the returning arm too, so that even standing still you are developing your whole body. It
is important to remember when practicing karate that no movement should ever be done in a
casual manner.

*** Points to remember***

1. keep the body relaxed prior to executing the punch

2. don’t tense or raise your shoulders in an attempt to gain power.
3. You should feel your elbows rubbing against your sides as you punch.- this will stop you
hooking your punch.
4. Upon impact, tense the whole body from the calves up. Without this focus, it is not a
karate punch.
5. Start slowly, but it has started to come together work on speed. Add multiple punches and
develop exact kime – here, you focus for a split second each time you impact a target.

2. Stepping /Lunge punch ( Oi zuki)

Stepping punch is one of the first techniques students generally learn. It combines the
delivery of the basic karate twisting punch with the use of the front stance. It is one of the most
direct and powerful techniques in karate, as it involves a strong stepping action combined with
the karate-ka using his full body weight. No momentum or balance is lost in spinning, making it
a commonly used attack.
*** Points to remember***

1. keep your back straight and eyes up, looking straight at the target. Never over-reach.
 2. if you step too slowly your opponent will have time to evade the punch, so always keep it
quick.

3. Reverse Punch (gyaku zuki)

Reverse punch is one of karate’s most popular techniques. It is regular used in kumite
(sparring), as it is easily employed as a counter-attack. It is essential when delivering this punch
that the hips and chest are only employed at the very last moment prior to impact with the target,
to maximize power.
*** Points to remember***

1. the punch must land at the same time as the hip twist – easier said that done, as the hand
has much further to travel, timing is everything with this technique.
2. “Keep face” . anyone who has trained regularly with the Japanese will have hear this
expressions. Basically, don’t take your eyes off your opponent. Even though your body is
twisting, don’t let your head turn away with it.

4. Leading hand punch (kizami zuki)

 It is delivered with the front hand (the hand on the same side as the forward leg in front
stance). Normally executed to the face, this punch can best be described as a stopping technique,
in that as your opponent starts to attack you move in and take the initiative, punching to the face
before the attacker has time to deliver his own attack.

*** Points to remember***

1. don’t allow your front elbow to stick out as you punch; this will take the punch off line,
as well as damaging the elbow joint. On impact, make sure the muscles around the
shoulders and sides are tensed strongly to absorb the blow.

STRIKING (Uchi)
Striking encompasses the use of elbow as well as hand attacks – both types are included
in this lesson. With punching, the elbow and then using it as a pivot. The hand “snap” forward
and back as it hits the target, in much the same way that front kick snaps back immediately after
delivery. The strike can be use both the open and closed hand as a weapon, as well as the point of
the elbow. The power is generated by the speed of the snapping action.

1. Back fist strike (uraken uchi)

Back fist strike has two variations. In the first it travels in a circular action to the temple;
upon striking the target it returns via the same route. In the second it again takes a circular
motion but this time in a downward direction, striking the bridge of the nose. The striking area is
the back of the hand.

*** Points to remember***

 1. don’t lose control of the striking elbow, as this controls the attack. Don’t just rely on the
snap of the strike for tis effectiveness; make sure you get your hips and chest into the
strike for maximum power.

2. Palm heel strike (teisho uchi)

As your karate training develops, you will discover that the fists and feet are not the only
weapons. Teisho uchi utilizes the heel are of the hand: the wrist is bent back, with the fingers and
thumb tightly clenched. This method of attack is usually aimed at the jaw. Upon striking the
target, the fingers can then reach out and attack the eyes. Teisho is a close-range attack and a
very effective one.
*** Point to remember***

1. start slowly. Make sure you are hitting with the right part of the hand.
2. Keep your fingers well out of the way; open, they are easily broken.

3. Knife hand strike (shuto uchi)

Knife hand strike uses the outside edge of the hand as the striking are. This are form the
base of the little finger down to the wrist, is surprisingly strong. The power of this technique
comes from the circular route of the attack. The knife hand si normally aimed at the throat or
neck. Great care must be exercised when carrying out this technique, as the open hand can easily
catch the opponent in the eyes.
*** Points to remember***

1. be sure to keep the thumb well bent, as this helps strengthen the wrist are when striking.
2. Even though the knife hand attack will feel strong due to its circular route, make sure you
are still getting your hips into the movement for maximum force.

4. Round house Elbow strike (mawashi empi)

Elbow attacks are designed for closed-in fighting. These strikes are short, fast and
devastating if landed without control. Because they are used to closed range, it means the
opponent has little or no time to see them or get out of technique through fluid use of the hips
and chest.
***Points to remember***

1. distance is vital with this attack – make sure you get in close to your opponent.
2. The point of the elbow is very hard, so be sure to exercise good control in partner work.
5. Rising Elbow strike (age empi)
Rising elbow strike is designed to attack under the jaw, knockling the head back as it
lands. As with all elbow strikes, it should only be contemplated for closed – in fighting.
Remember: getting in really close to your opponent does have its advantages and is a vital part of
realistic training for combat, but don’t forget that if you are in range, so is he. The nearer you are
to an opponent, the less time you have to react to attacks. Always keep this in mind. The truth is
that at some point you will get hit, so be prepared.
*** Points to remember***

1. keep the striking arm pressed tightly against the side of your face on impact.
2. Don’t allow your head to turn away as you hit.
3. Try to grab hold of your opponent, to stop him escaping or learning back to avoid the
strike.

6. Knee strikes
Blocking Techniques (uke)
In this section we will look at the five blocks. They will teach you to defend against
attacks to the head and body. There are a number of other blocks that you will come across as
your training advances, but these five will sustain you from beginner through to black belt. When
blocking, always try to achieve two aims: to deflect the attack without being hit, and to put
yourself in a position to make a strong counter. Never just block.
Correct timing is vital – get this wrong on a regular basis and there is a danger that friends and
relatives wont recognize you. In training, always seek out a partner who will try to make seek
land; this way, you will know if the block works.

1. Downward Block lower block (Gedan barai)

As you will have already seen, a larger part of basic training starts from the left forward
gedan barai position. This block is primarily used to defend against mid-section kicks. It is
certainly one of the more powerful blocks, as makes full use the hips and chest.
*** Points to remember***

1. don’t swing the arm down-drive it as though you are striking.

2. Make sure you don’t black too high. The blocking hand should be roughly the width of a
fist above the front knee.

2. Rising block/upper block (Age uke)

Rising block is designed to deflect blows to the head. Upon completion, the blocking arm should
be above the head an ankle of 45 degrees. At the same time, the body should twist to 45 degrees
to assist deflection of the attack.
***Point to remember***

1. Even though you use your arms to block, make sure your feet get you out of danger.
Always step quickly.
2. when using the basic blocks, never lean away to avoid the attack. Escaping the attack in
this way stops you from testing the effectiveness of the block.
3. never just block, always train to counter – attack.

3. Outside Block (ude uke)

Of the two mid-section blocks, this one is the strongest. It is also the block most
beginners struggle with. Start slowly and break it down into separate parts, but still attempt to
make each movement as fluid as possible. This block really is bone on bone, and it will hurt to
start off with, but don’t be put off.
 ***Points to remember***

1. Don’t reach for the attack – let it come

2. make sure you block with the area just below the wrist.
3. don’t block too close to your body, as the blocking are is small, and if you miss the attack
you may get hit. Remember: fast feet to evade the attack and a strong block to deflect it.

4. Inside Block (Uchi Uke)

Inside block is the other mid-section block, and can also be used to deflect both kicks and
punches. It is easier to learn than outside block but not as strong, and for this reason its not used
as much in partner.
***Points to remember***

1. when you make the block, control the elbow – don’t let it “wobble” as this will
weaken the movement.
2. don’t let the block ride up – check that the blocking fist is level with your shoulders.

5. Knife hand block (shuto uke)

Knife hand block is the first open – hand technique a student will come across. The fact
that it is used in conjunction with back stance – all other techniques coming from the front stance
– make it doubly difficult. The outer edge of the hand is used to make the block, and this causes
two potential problems: first, it is such a small part of the hand that it is easy to miss the target;
and second, beginners often injure themselves, blocking with the fingers instead.
***Points to remember***

1. throughout the block, keep the fingers rigid and the thumbs well bent.
2. at the end of the movement, check that your front foot, knee, blocking elbow and chin
are in line.
3. make sure you leave the twist in the hands just swing to the target.

Kicking Techniques (geri)

It cannot be denied that mastery of kicking greatly increases the threat the karate-ka poses to an
opponent. The legs are longer than the arms, therefore increasing the range at which you can
strike an opponent. But they are also heavier than the arms, too, and this weight makes them
considerably harder to block. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking that unless you are extremely
supple (able to do full side splits and the like) you cant kick to a high standard. Effective kicking
isn’t about height of kick; after all, the head is only one of many targets available to you. Some
styles of karate have no head kicks at all in their syllabus, realizing that some of the most
devastating kicks can be directed to groin, knees and shins. Kicking tends to draw the most
attention because it can be very work to the detriment of your punching or blocking. What if you
have leg injury: is training over? Not at all – you work on other area. Play games with your
mind, think of different scenarios and how you would cope if you couldn’t block. There are four
kicks included in this lesson. You will find some of them very difficult, as they involve the use
of spinning techniques in addition to maintaining your balance on one leg. Keep practicing – you
will improve.

*Kicking tips
-always work on a quick, high knee lift. If it is slow or too low, your kick will suffer.
- as a rule, kicks have a long way to travel to the target. If you telegraph your intention by
tensing your face, leaning, or adding extra movements, the kick will have little chance of
success.
- no matter what the type of kick, be it snap or thrust, always recover it and get your foot
back to the floor as fast as possible.
-kicking can be very tiring – if you intend to use kicks don’t just throw them and hope for
the best. See a target and hit it. At the very least make sure your opponent has to block.

1. Front kick (mae geri)

Front kick is the first kick a beginner is taught. It is the most direct kick, and technically
the easiest to grasp. However, in kumite it is the least used of the kicks. This is due to the
confidence required to execute it correctly. Front kick can be directed to the head, body or gedan
– the groin area.
***Points to remember***

1. when starting the kick, don’t telegraph the attack by adding extra movements, such as
moving the arms or head prior to the kick.
2. Make sure you push both hips into the kick.
3. Never lean backward to gain height – always rely on a good knee lift to give your
kick greater range.

2. Side thrust kick (yoko geri)

Side thrust kick makes full use of the thrusting action of the leg. The kick is almost
always directed to the mid-section, and the point of contact is the side edge of the foot(sukuto)
this kick is difficult to master as it involves being able to hold the leg out while at the same time
using a strong twisting action from the supporting leg. You will find stretched fully before
executing it.
***Points to remember***

1. most people tend to swing the leg to the target or let ride up. Avoid this by using high
knee lift.
2. this kick is greatly weakened the more you lean away from the target. Try to keep
upright. Height isn’t important – power and accuracy.
3. this kick demands great muscle control. If you are struggling, use a wall or chair for
balance and practice holding the leg out.
3. Round house kick (mawashi geri)
Round house kick is one of the more spectacular karate techniques. It travel in an arc
towards the target – unlike the previous kicks, which come straight at you. It can be used to
attack either the head or body – jodan or chudan. Hip flexibility is vital for this kick to be
executed correctly. When kicking to the face, train to kick with both the ball of the foot and the
instep; the first being classical interpretation, the latter the competition way. Both have value.
***Points to remember***

1. be sure to twist the supporting leg as the kick sstrikes. This will allow you to use your
hips as well as gain maximum range.
2. there are many bones in the foot and this kick often collides with elbows, so train for
accuracy to avoid injury.
3. the instep needs to be conditioned for kicking, which is bet done with a kick bag.
Start hitting it lightly and make good contact with the flat surface of the foot. When
you are happy with this, start to increase speed and power.

4. Spinning back kick (ushiro geri)

The spinning back kick is one of the most challenging kicks because it involves balancing
on one leg as you spin, in addition to turning your back on your opponent momentarily. Because
its delivery must be quick, timing is of the essence and you need a strong supporting leg. When
successfully landed, this kick is one of the most powerful, as it uses the momentum of the spin
and the driving hips. It is essential not to telegraph your intention to your opponent prior to and
during the attack.
***Points to remember***

1. it is vital that the kick is delivered in the shortest possible time, as you are putting
yourself at a disadvantage by turning your back on your opponent momentarily.
2. From the moment your foot leaves the floor, make this attack in one fluid action. Any
hesitation or added movement will indicate your intentions and give your opponent an
opening.