Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Report
Course Code: TE- 332
Course Title: Apparel manufacturing II (lab)
Submitted To
Mst. Murshida Khatun
Asst. Professor
Department of Textile Engineering
Daffodil international university
Submitted By
Md. Subbir Ul Alam
ID: 182-23-5418
Department: Textile Engineering
Batch: 39 (Day)
Section: A
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Experiment no: 2
Experiment name: Study on Lock Stitch Plain Sewing Machine.
Theory:
The M/C which is used to stitch fabric or other material together with thread is called sewing machine.
Sewing machine plays an important role in garments manufacturing industry. There are a lot of sewing
machines used in ready-made garments sector.
Lock stitch is a sewing-machine stitch in which two threads are locked together at small intervals.
Another way to define lock stitch is a sewing-machine stitch in which the top thread interlocks with the
bobbin thread. Lock stitch plain sewing machine would be single needle or double needle. In single
needle lock stitch sewing machine two threads are used one is needle thread and another is called
bobbin thread.
Objectives:
- By this experiment students will able to learn about anatomy of basic sewing machine.
- By this experiment students will able to know about basic parts of lock stitch sewing
machine.
- By this experiment students will get clear idea about how lock stitch sewing machine
works.
- By this experiment students will able to learn about uses of lock stitch sewing machine.
- To know about how to find or calculate machine cycle time/sewing time by using m/c
RPM.
Parts includes in sewing m/c:
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Working Procedure:
Basically the lockstitch uses two threads, an upper and a lower. Lockstitch is so named because
the two threads, upper and lower, "lock" (entwine) together in the hole in the fabric which they
pass through. The upper thread runs from a spool kept on a spindle on top of or next to the
machine, through a tension mechanism, through the take-up arm, and finally through the hole in
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
the needle. Meanwhile the lower thread is wound onto a bobbin, which is inserted into a case in
the lower section of the machine below the material.
To make one stitch, the machine lowers the threaded needle through the cloth into the bobbin
area, where a rotating hook (or other hooking mechanism) catches the upper thread at the point
just after it goes through the needle. The hook mechanism carries the upper thread entirely
around the bobbin case, so that it has made one wrap of the bobbin thread. Then the take-up arm
pulls the excess upper thread (from the bobbin area) back to the top, forming the lockstitch. Then
the feed dogs pull the material along one stitch length, and the cycle repeats.
Conclusion:
Lock stitch sewing machine can be used for making any type of apparel like shirt, pant, ladies
wear and other cloths. Especially for making collar, front pocket, bottom hem etc.
Method of Sewing Time Calculation by Using Machine RPM:
Before calculating garments sewing time by using machine RPM (Revolution per minute), an
industrial engineer should confirm about the below points:
1. Stitch per inch (SPI) of the garments,
2. Seam length in inch of the garments,
3. Sewing machine RPM (Revolution per minute).
Machine cycle time or sewing time (in second),
Suppose, for a lock stitch sewing machine, machine RPM is 1500. How much time needed to
sew a 40” super imposed seam, where stitch per inch (SPI) is 10?
Solution:
Here,
Sewing machine RPM= 1500,
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Seam length in inch= 40”,
Stitch per inch (SPI) = 10.
Machine cycle time or sewing time (in second),
= 16sec.
So, machine cycle time or sewing time is 16sec.
Note: During 16sec sewing time, no machine stopping occurred and this time is calculated by
ignoring all the other factors.
Experiment no: 03
Experiment name: Study on Overlock Sewing Machine.
Theory:
An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging,
hemming, or seaming. An overlock sewing machine differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in
that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. Loopers serve to create
thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges of the
fabric are contained within the seam.
Overlock sewing machines usually run at high speeds, from 1000 to over 9000 rpm, Overlocking
is also referred to as "overedging", "merrowing", or "serging". Though "serging” technically
refers to overlocking with cutters, in practice the four terms are used interchangeably.
Objectives:
- By this experiment students will able to learn about overlock sewing machine.
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
- By this experiment students will able to know about basic parts of overlock sewing
machine.
- By this experiment students will get clear idea about how overlock sewing machine
works.
- By this experiment students will able to learn about uses of overlock sewing machine.
- To know about how to find or calculate machine cycle time/sewing time by using m/c
RPM.
Parts includes in overlock sewing m/c:
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Stitch formation of over lock sewing machine:
1-thread, 12 stitches per inch
2-thread, 1/8" wide, 20 stitches per inch, with differential feed
3-thread, 17 stitches per inch
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3-thread, 7 stitches per inch
Stitch can be made using 1,2,3,4, or 5 threads, depending on the no. of needles and looper.
Single thread overlock: Stitch type 501. Only used in home application.
Two thread overlock: Stitch type 503. One needle and one looper.
Three thread overlock: Stitch type 504. One needle and two loopers.
Four thread overlock: Stitch Type 514. Two needles and two loopers.
Five thread overlock: Stitch Type 516. Two needles and three loopers.
Working Procedure:
The machine come with a needle thread take up mechanism as well as a looper thread take up
mechanism which is applicable for over edging operations for thin moderate and heavy
materials.
Conclusion:
Overlock sewing m/c is mostly used in industry for edging, hemming and seaming a variety of
fabrics and products. Overlock stitches are extremely versatile, as they can be used for
decoration, reinforcement, or construction.
Experiment no: 04
Experiment name: Study on Chain Stitch Sewing Machine.
Theory:
A stitch in which the looping of the thread or threads forms a chain on the underside of the
work;the loop stitch, as distinguished from the lock stitch.
Objectives:
- By this experiment students will able to learn about chain stitch sewing machine.
- By this experiment students will able to know about basic parts of chain stitch sewing
machine.
- By this experiment students will get clear idea about how chain stitch sewing machine
works.
- By this experiment students will able to learn about uses of chain stitch sewing machine.
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
- To know about how to find or calculate machine cycle time/sewing time by using m/c
RPM.
Chain stitch sewing m/c:
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Machine parts:
Thread stand
Thread packages
Thread hanger guide
Tension post
Thread guide
Needle thread take up lever
Needle
Needle bar
Needle plate
Pressure foot
Feed dog
Looper
Looper thread take up lever
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
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Stitch formation:
Working Procedure:
The Basic Chain stitch is made by first sending the needle down through the material. Then, as
the needle rises upward, the friction of the thread against the fabric is sufficient to form a small
loop on the underside of the material. That loop is caught by a circular needle which is beneath
the work. The machine then moves the material forward projecting the loop on the underside
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
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from the previous stitch. The next drop of the needle goes through the previous loop. The
circular needle then releases the first loop and picks up the new loop and the process repeats.
Conclusion:
Multi thread chain stitch is also called double locked stitch. Used for long length sewing, heavy
fabric sewing, attaching lace, elastic etc.
Experiment no: 05
Experiment name: Study on Bar tack Lock Stitch Sewing Machine
Theory:
Bar tack means to increase strength of small length of fabric by sewing on it and then by
repeating it. For example – belt loop, opening of pocket. It is a simple automatic machine which
produces stitches in a cyclic order. In a few length of cloth sewing again and again after sewing
one time to increase the power of bearing load of that place of cloth is called bar tack. A bar tack
machine can sew strongly within a few lengths cyclically. At first doing tak stitch (1-2 cm) then
in opposite make cover stitch (zigzag) on ta ck stitch. A little change can be done between tack
stitch and cover stitch.
Objectives:
To know about the machine parts.
To know about the thread path.
To know about the parts of bar tack machine.
To know the working principle of this machine.
Bar Tack Sewing Machine:
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Different Parts of Bar Tack Sewing Machine:
1. Bobbin winder
2. Back stitch lever
3. Thread guide
4. Knife lever
5. Thread take-up lever
6. Needle
7. Knife
8. Feed dog plate
9. Throat plate
10. Bobbin
11. Bobbin case
12. Tension post
Bar Tack Sewing Machine
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Where,
A=Cone Package, B=Thread, C=Guide, D=Guide, E=Guide, F=Tensioner, G=Tensioner
H=Guide I=Guide J=Thread take up lever K=Guide L=Guide M=Needle
Stitch formation:
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Working Procedure:
At first this machine produces tack stitches in a small length (1-2 cm) and then sews covering
stitches over and at right angles to the first stitches. The variables are the number of tacking
stitches and the number of covering stitches. Typical uses are closing the ends of buttonholes,
reinforcing the ends of pocket openings and the bottoms of flies and sewing on belt loops. The
adjustment points of this machine are needle, pressure feed, stitch length, stitch density.
Uses:
Attaching belt loops. Increasing strength in corner of pocket. Closing the two corners of button
hole. At the end of zipper. In that place where more strength is needed to support extra load.
Conclusion:
This type of machine cannot be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment
their importance cannot be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper
working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done.
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Experiment no: 06
Experiment name: Study on Button hole Lock Stitch Sewing Machine.
Theory:
Buttonholes are holes in fabric which allow buttons to pass through, securing one piece of the
fabric to another. The raw edges of a buttonhole are usually finished with stitching. This may be
done either by hand or by a sewing machine. Some forms of button, such as a frog, use a loop of
cloth or rope instead of a buttonhole.
Objectives:
To know about the machine parts.
To know about the thread path.
To know about uses of button hole sewing machine.
To know the working principle of this machine.
Button hole Sewing Machine:
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Different Parts of Button hole Sewing Machine:
Thread stand
Thread packages
Thread guide
Tension post
Needle bar
Needle
Pressure foot
Buttonhole Cutter
Safety glass
Bobbin winder
Bobbin
Bobbin case
Hole adjusting lever
Stitch formation:
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
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Working Procedure:
1 Needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
Automatic button hole with easy buttonhole size adjustment which further enhances ease of
operation.
This machine is capable of sewing heavy-weight materials such as bulky knits.
Uses:
Sewing of light and heavy fabric’s garments button holding.
Conclusion:
Buttonholes are fairly quick and easy to sew. All it requires from you is a bit of patience and some careful
marking and measuring beforehand.
Experiment no: 07
Experiment name: Study on Button attaching Sewing Machine.
Theory:
The different methods of button attachment include hand sewing, lockstitch and chain stitch. Hand
stitching has obvious disadvantages such as inconsistency and being a slow, expensive and skilled
operation. The common methods of attaching buttons are with a button sewing machine and the
options are either lockstitch or chain stitch.
Objectives:
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
To know about the machine parts.
To know about the thread path.
To know about uses of button attaching sewing machine.
To know the working principle of this machine.
Button attaching Sewing Machine:
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Machine parts:
Thread stand
Thread guide
Tensioner
Thread guides
Thread take-up lever
Needle
Clamp
Stitch formation:
Lab Schedule and Writing Format
Prepared by- Mst. Murshida Khatun
Working Procedure:
There are different types of button attaching m/c and different types of clamps are needed for different
types and sizes of buttons. Especially there may two or three holes in the button. Again button of three
holes may be attached by parallel or cross sewing. Buttons may be of different types specially there may
be shank below the button or during sewing shank may be made by thread. For sewing button lock
stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch machine may be used. When using chain stitch the sewing looks neat
below the button but the safety of stitch is low that is the button may be fall out opening the sewing.
This will not happen when used lock stitch but it is not as neat as chain stitch. In automatic machine by a
hopper and pipe button is fed in button clamp in auto system and button is positioned. Moreover a
predetermined number buttons can be attached in a cycle in a predetermined distant in a dress.
Uses:
Sewing of light and heavy fabric’s garments button joining.
Conclusion:
This type of machine cannot be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their
importance cannot be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working.
Otherwise faulty sewing may be done.