Progressive Training For
Climbing Performance
4 WEEKS PROGRAM TRAINER
4 PHASES PROGRAM
FOR STAMINA AND ENDURANCE
INTENSITY LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE
MAIN GOAL: STAMINA AND ENDURANCE
DURATION: 12 SESSIONS
Edition 3 - 2016
By : Climbing Workouts
[Link]
CONCEPTS
A Progressive Methodology for Power Stamina,
and Endurance
This methodology consists of 4 consecutive weeks in which you will
perform a training routine. This routine varies in intensity however it
addresses areas that are essential in the learning of the activity in this
case Climbing. Progression means you will go from less hard to harder
and as you do it you feel the progression.
WEEK 1: ENTERING THE PROGRESSION ZONE
bodypart, a good starting volume for your
[Link]’ll do 3 reps per exercise. This rep
scheme is widely considered ideal for effectively
achieving gains in muscle memory, speed and strength
and is commonly employed by amateur and pro
climbers alike.
WEEK 2: TURNING UP THE INTENSITY
You’ll again employ the training card but will increase
the level of your climbing attempts. For example if you
were working on 25 moves around 7a grade, you may
now want to try 7a+ on this week.
WEEK 3: ACTIVE RECOVERY
In the third week of the program we step it up to a
three-day training split: Train all “pushing” bodyparts
WEEK 4: SHOW WHAT YOU HAVE ACCOMPLISHED -
TESTING
In the fourth and final week of the program, you’ll train
aiming to show what endurance and movement quality
you have gain by pushing the intensity of your session
to your max
CONCEPTS
How this program transfer into your future
climbing accomplishments?
In this climbing program, we will cover 3 types of energy you will be
employing: Strength, stamina (power endurance) and endurance.
Strength relates to high intensity but lower duration (2-15 second
efforts) the second category, stamina (known as power endurance),
relates to anaerobic efforts where you reach failure in between 30
seconds and 1.5 minutes. The third energy type is endurance, where
one climbs for a longer period of time but making lower intensity moves
and finding occasional rests within the efforts (1.5 minutes - 10
minutes). At the end you are aiming to climb the hardest and the
longest.
CRUX MOVE TRAINING MOVE
Movements made in the indoor gym along with
sequences and boulder problems must transfer
into applicable skills you are looking to gain
PREPARATION
The Weeks and The Phases
This programs is based in schedule, a set of exercises, a setup,
requirements and a combination of executions expected to
result in measurable progress gains.
MODULES AND SECTIONS:
SECTION 1: THE CONCEPTS
SECTION 2: THE PREPARATION
SECTION 3: THE EXECUTION
SECTION 4: THE ASSESSMENTS
Progressive Levels Climbing Projects
Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4
PHASE 4
PHASE 3
PHASE 2
PHASE 1
PREPARATION
General Preparation and Setup
Progressive Training is a selection of exercises accompanied with
instructions and directions towards the accomplishment of drills
designed for endurance and stamina. But the main idea is that it
can provide a comprehensive plan for you to push your limit as a
climber and perform better in harder grades. The fact that you are
already interested in this program means you have committed in
your mind to excel in the sport and progress as you develop your
skills for sport climbing. Progressive training won't require a full
rack of climbing gear. All you need to get into this program are
essentially your shoes and access to a climbing gym and climbing
panel. Let’s take a look at the checklist:
❏ Climbing Shoes
❏ Timer (Or Phone)
❏ Chalk Bag
❏ Water Bottle
❏ Harness
❏ Belay Device
Each time you go to the gym you are taking control of your
workout, you are not just randomly going around looking for
something to do on a particular day, but you have the checklist
on hand to do what you need to
PREPARATION
THE SETTING: Climbing Gym or Home Climbing Wall
Progressive Training Program (PTP) includes the combination of various
tools proven effective for climbing training. Each tool will bring
opportunities to learn specific, applicable climbing skills. Other
recommendations are:
● Follow up the guidelines
● Follow the scheduled program
● Fill up your worksheets
● Maintain a strict diet
● Commit to at least 3 hours of climbing per week
● Keep your notes (read about keeping a training diary)
● Rinse and Repeat
● Stop program immediately if you don’t see results in 2 weeks
PREPARATION
The 4 WEEK PROGRAM SCHEDULE:
Schedule your sessions leaving one day of rest in between, while also
keeping the weekend open to try your projects. The following is a
schedule where you execute the Progressive workout Tuesdays and
Thursdays, leaving Wednesday off in between, also having fridays for
low intensity conditioning (soft runs, push ups, abs). The weekends
are open days allocated for outdoor climbing (if you have the chance
to), or practice indoor project routes. Let’s take a look at the example
below:
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
s
OFF ON OFF ON Conditioning ON Climbing
OFF ON OFF ON Conditioning ON Climbing
OFF ON OFF ON Conditioning ON Climbing
OFF ON OFF ON Conditioning ON Climbing
PREPARATION
Session by Session Relative Intensity
The following chart shows 12 sessions with a variation of intensity levels.
As you move from 1 to 12 you will vary the intensity as seen below. Red bar
represents the relative intensity of each session compared to the rest.
Session 1
Session 2
Session 3
Session 4
Session 5
Session 6
Session 7
Session 8
Session 9
Session 10
Session 11
Session 12
PREPARATION
The Session Timeline:
The timeline simply shows the proportions and balance of warming up,
core training, technical conditioning and stretching. All the sections on the
sessions are crafted in a specific order you can follow. You will have a total
of 12 sessions and 24 hours of total workout time.
Total Sessions 12 Sessions
Total Time 24 Hours
Sessions per week 3 Sessions
Duration Per Session 2 Hours
PREPARATION
Route Setting and Circuit Design for Training
Creating your own routes and sequences in the climbing gym is not only
fun but a basic skill so you can program your body the way you want. By
quickly crafting patterns in the wall and memorizing them you are already
boosting your body’s nervous system. As you prepare climbing boulders,
routes and sequences, you may want to have some considerations
● Decide the amount of move syou want to have
● Decide the length of the route
● Decide for an incline
● Select start hold
● Select Top hod
● Instead of memorizing 30 moves memorize 3 blocks of 10 moves at
the time
PREPARATION
Training Card - Use for all 12 Sessions
Progression training is based in a time-progressive series of
climbs that will result in endurance gains.
MOVEMENTS EXERCISES REST
15-20 Easy Traverse 1 3 minutes
15-20 Easy Traverse 2 3 minutes
15-20 Easy Traverse 3 3 minutes
5 - 10 Warmup 1: Boulder A 3 minutes
5 - 10 Warmup 2: Boulder B 3 minutes
5 - 10 Warmup 3: Boulder C 3 minutes
20 Sequence 1 with open feet 3 minutes
30 Sequence 2 with open feet 3 minutes
40 Sequence 3 with open feet 5 minutes
40 2 Minutes climbing in steep wall 2 minutes
50-55 4 Minutes climbing in overhanging wall 4 minutes
60-70 6 Minutes climbing in tilted or vertical 10 minutes
wall
10 High Step + Lock Off Drill 2 minutes
10 CrossOvers and Cross Unders 2 minutes
10 Typewriters in Bomb Holds 2 minutes
EXECUTION
GET STARTED >> Traverse Warmup
This Is simply about setting up some easy traverses of 20 moves
approx and each climb is done 3 times.
MOVEMENTS EXERCISES REST
15-20 Warmup 4: traverse 3 minutes
15-20 Warmup 5: traverse 3 minutes
15-20 Warmup 6: traverse 3 minutes
EXECUTION
NEXT >> Easy Boulder Problems
Now find a vertical wall and traverse freely with jugs to get an overall
aerobic push while flowing on the wall.
5 - 10 Warmup 1: Boulder A 3 minutes
5 - 10 Warmup 2: Boulder B 3 minutes
5 - 10 Warmup 3: Boulder C 3 minutes
EXECUTION
NEXT >> 20-30-40 Move Sequences
Set 3 sequences of progressive movement count. Try each sequence
making sure you climb in a continuous rhythm. You may occasionally
add “resting points” to your route, specially the one of 40 Movements.
As you progress you attempt to sdo these sequences in one shot, all
the way barely to the top or at least complete 80$ of the route. If you
fall, get back on it.
20 Moves Sequence 1 with open feet 3 minutes
30 Moves Sequence 2 with open feet 3 minutes
40 Moves Sequence 3 with open feet 5 minutes
EXECUTION
NEXT >> Progressive Timed Climbing
Now you are going to take your timer and based on the training chart
below, you will freely climb around the wall. As you establish
movements and record your time, you will be performing movements.
This will help you in terms of your quick decision making skills, which
are essential for climbing. Make sure when you set your routes you are
considering performing all your movements . You must not fall during 3
minutes. If you are feel like falling, simply grab a big hold and take a
rest. If you fall, get back within 5 seconds.
40 Moves 2 Minutes Climbing in steep wall 2 minutes
50-55 Moves 4 Minutes climbing in 2 minutes
overhanging wall
60-70 Moves 6 Minutes climbing in vertical 10 minutes
wall
EXECUTION
NEXT >> High Step and LockOff
This is an example drill for technique and strength. In the system board or climbing
wall, follow the sequence as depicted below:
10 Moves High Step + Lock Off Drill 3 minutes
EXECUTION
NEXT >> Crossovers in Boulder Wall
To practice this climbing move, we need an overhanging wall, then you will
need 2 handholds in total. Select the holds you want. Set footholds and start
point with 3 holds. Refer to the illustration below to see the configuration on
a wall:
10 Moves CrossOvers and Cross Unders 3 minutes
Rest
EXECUTION
NEXT >> Typewriters in Bomb Holds
This exercise is about using your body tension core and chest to
handle uneven positions. Hold in couple of omb holds and move from
left to right making typewriters.
10 Typewriters in Bomb Holds 5 minutes
Rest
EXECUTION
Session Summary
Progressive Training Program (PTP) includes the combination of various
tools proven effective for climbing training. Each tool will bring
opportunities to learn specific, applicable climbing skills.
Total Time 2 Hours
Summarize your progress and make
adjustments. Repeat the cycle with
those changes so next time you try
progressive training you can fully
crush it
EXECUTION
CLIMBING TEST >> 3 ROUTES IN CLIMBING
GYM
Testing and measurement are the means of collecting
information upon which subsequent performance evaluations
and decisions are made but in the analysis we need to bear in
mind the factors that may influence the results.
1. The climber selects 3 route in the gym
2. The routes must be at the max level and if possible slightly
beyond
3. Each route will get 3 tries maximum
4. Total tries on this test are 9 tries.
5. Write up and keep the result
6. ⅔ is a satisfactory result
BENCHMARK REST RESULT
Route 1 10 min (Number of attempts to
redpoint)
Route 2 10 min (Number of attempts to
redpoint)
Route 3 10 min (Number of attempts to
redpoint)
Take few minutes to
visualize each route and
try to find various
solutions to the moves
ASSESSMENTS
Self Assessments
By keeping a honest self feedback you grant that you can
relate to it later and make adjustments as you need. If
somewhere in your training you feel you are failing you must
then readjust and make sure your training goals are still aligned
with the exercises. These results must drive new decisions as
per how to approach your learning process.
Am I improving with the current training program? (Y / N)
Am I measuring my results? (Y / N)
Am I being strict with my resting time and number of (Y / N)
sessions?
Am I feeling emotionally well in a climbing session? (Y / N)
Do I recognize when is time to stop because of a risk of (Y / N)
injury?
Is there some change I’d make in this program? (Y / N)
Do I have the commitment to execute this program and get (Y / N)
better?
Feelings Improvements
How do you feel during the day and How do you feel during the day and
what affected you emotionally what affected you emotionally
Training Reports New Goals
Write up a general summary of what Just keep a list somewhere with your
you did and how was your session climbing goals and future
achievements
ASSESSMENTS
Monitor your Progress
Retake your personal climbing assessment (bouldering and lead) four
weeks after you start your program and then again every month. You
may notice that you need to increase the amount of time you exercise in
order to continue improving. Or you may be pleasantly surprised to find
that you're exercising just the right amount to meet your fitness goals. If
you lose motivation, set new goals or try a new activity. Exercising with a
friend or taking a class at a fitness center may help, too. Starting an
exercise program is an important decision. But it doesn't have to be an
overwhelming one. By planning carefully and pacing yourself, you can
establish a healthy habit that lasts a lifetime.
How to monitor the program
1. Keep a diary
2. Use training cards or small “training checklists”
3. Write down your workouts on paper or in a digital format
4. Use timers and keep track of exercise times and resting times
5. Answer the question: What was the hardest move, boulder problem, exercise
or route made today?
ASSESSMENTS
Key Tips for Progressive Training Session
● Make sure each and every workout is at its best.
● Make sure you've eaten your pre-workout energy source
● Working to failure means you won't be able to complete one more move
even if you want to.
● Your rest periods should last between 2 and 4 minutes
BUILDING ON YOUR MOMENTUM
The third week marks the start of the muscle-building phase. This will continue
for the next six weeks and include a variety of exercises and training variables at
each stage. Though your sets will stay at 3 in this phase, Your intensity will
increase. That's because I want you to go a little heavier, like 80 percent of your
maximum effort. Bear in mind that your max may have increased after two
weeks of training. Again, the true guide comes from actually doing the sets. Your
last repetition of the session should be difficult but not impossible to complete.
Remember, too easy, increase the difficulty; too hard, decrease it. As we
progress through the program, we'll be applying techniques to increase strength
and promote hypertrophy (muscle building). Though some muscle combinations
(back with biceps; chest with triceps) will stay the same, think about what area of
your climbing is the weakest or troubles you the most.
Thank You
Climbing Workouts Essential Training
Edited by: by David Echeverri
Climbing workouts is the result of years of learning and researching the foundations of sport
climbing and bouldering training. This program can be used for red pointing and competition
and it includes a collection of experiences taken from professionals who have devoted their
time to practice this sport.
This training guidebook is part of the
CLIMBING WORKOUTS series
[Link]
2017
Disclaimer:
The main purpose of the practice material is to assist you in developing higher-level
competence. While the publishers take care to ensure the accuracy of the contents of the
material, the publisher makes no warranties as to the accuracy of the information contained
on the version of the practice material. Furthermore, every user of this material uses it
understanding that you must still conduct your own original research and analysis. In addition,
every user must refer to relevant guidelines, rules and other primary sources.
