Building a Bekaert

How to Install High Tensile Fence

SAFETY FIRST!

Wear protective gloves, boots, and clothing

to prevent serious lacerations when handling
High Tensile Fencing fencing components.

Protective eyewear is required! Sharp edges

(800)241-4126 x2272 of fencing and components can cause serious
eye injury.

www.bekaert.com/na Coiled fencing is under tension. Stay clear

of fencing when releasing strapping from
coils to prevent being struck and injured.
High Tensile Barbed Wire Fence
Local building code requirements should be
consulted where applicable.

Carry staples in an apron or small bucket

only!

Do one job at a time – don’t rush!

Work with a partner to make the job safer

High Tensile Smooth Wire Fence and easier.

High Tensile Field Fence Always use a spinning jenny when unreeling
high tensile smooth wire from coils.

Use a proper tensioning device to tighten

fencing. (No tractors!)

Read and follow all directions from

manufacturer!
BEKAERT CORPORATION WIRE DIVISION
WIRE DIAMETERS: COATINGS:
151/2, 14, 121/2, AND 101/2 GAUGE CLASS 3 GALVANIZED,
BEZINAL®+PAINT
MEETS ASTM SPECIFICATIONS:
121 (151/2 GAUGE HIGH TENSILE BARBED WIRE)
116 (HIGH TENSILE FIELD FENCE)

COMMENTS:
HIGH TENSILE FENCING OFFERS GREATER STRENGTH
AND LOWER WEIGHT THAN CONVENTIONAL FENCING.
WITH PROPER INSTALLATION THIS FENCING WILL
REQUIRE VERY LITTLE MAINTENANCE, AND HAVE A VERY
LONG LIFE EXPECTANCY.
 Make A Fence Plan
Perimeter Fence Sketch out your fence needs to the same scale as your land use
plan. (Figure 2) You should be able to estimate how many linear
Cross feet your fence will be. For greater accuracy measure your planned
Fence fence line with a measuring wheel or string. Add up the total
lengths minus gate openings.
Cross Fence
Selecting The Right Fence
Feed For the most economical fence design, or combination of designs
Hay Field / Pasture Lot consider these questions:
• What kind of livestock, cattle, sheep, etc.
• How many head per pasture?
Perimeter Fence Figure 1 • How rough is the terrain?
• Is electricity accessible?
• Is water accessible?
• Where will my interior fences need to be?
• Will there be an issue with rocks or other tough
Stays every 10’ ground conditions?
Corner Post
Assembly Selecting the Right Type of Coating
Air humidity, blowing sand or dust, abrasive chemicals in the soil,
Corner Post End Post Corner Post air applied crop dusting fertilizer, salt, pollution, and acid rain can
Assembly Assembly Assembly all drastically reduce fence life. Class one galvanizing is the normal
protective coating used on standard fence wire. Bekaert uses a
Figure 2 class three coating on high tensile fence wire. This coating is
approximately two and a half times heavier than class one coating.
This heavier coating provides longer lasting protection from
Planning a Bekaert the elements. Another great looking coating option is Bezinal®
High Tensile Fence + Paint. This coating gives you an aesthetically pleasing color
Bekaert high tensile fence with class three coating lasts twice as option and lasts even longer than class three galvanized.
long as a conventional class one coated fence. With this long life
expectancy it makes sense to really plan your fencing project.
Instead of simply replacing the current fence exactly as it was,
think about how you would really like it to be set up. Consider
the long term use of the land, and the changes you might want
to make in the future.

Begin by sketching a map of your farm or ranch. A helpful planning Figure 3

tool is an aerial map of your property. They are easily obtained
from the following sources:
• The U.S. Soil Conservation Service Laying Out A Fence Line
• The U.S. Agriculture Stabilization and Conservation Service Clear the planned fence line so you have an unobstructed work
• The Agricultural Extension Service area. Set a flagged 6 foot stake at each end, and station another
• An aerial survey firm listed in the telephone directory person at one of the stakes. Starting from the opposite end, set
4 foot stakes every 100 feet using the other person to verify
Next, lay out a land use plan. (Figure 1) Make land assignments
correct placement. (Figure 3)
for pastures, hay, crop, and perhaps wildlife areas. From this
plan, you can figure your current and anticipated fencing needs. Another method to lay out a fence line is to use a smooth wire
or string to establish the fence line. First, set both end posts for
Fencing Costs Can Be Shared a section. Next, stretch a string or wire between the posts. Wrap
Neighbors often share in the cost of building or replacing boundary
the string or wire at least two times around each post before tying
fences. Cost-share assistance from the U.S. Department of
off. Make sure both posts have the wire on the same side, either
Agriculture may also be available. Check with your county’s
inside or outside of the post. The string cannot be fastened at
Agriculture Stabilization and Conservation Office.
the center of either post. Finally, use another person to straighten
the line using the two posts that are already set as a reference.
Building Corner and End Braces • Wire cutter
• Crimping tool
When to Build Single or Double “H” Braces • Tensioning Device (chain grab)
• Single “H” braces are used for fences that consist of six or
1. Position the brace by sighting down your newly created fence
fewer high tensile smooth or barbed wires. Up to 330’ of
line. Brace posts should be set 48 inches into the ground. Drive
field fence.
the small end of the post into the ground, or if holes were dug,
• Double “H” braces are used for fences that consist of more
cement posts in place. To handset a corner, end, or gate post
than six high tensile smooth or barbed wires. Up to 660’ of
using cement; you should first hammer a ring of staples half way
field fence.
into the wood near the base of the post. Dig your hole with an
inverse bell shape at the base of the hole. Make sure the hole is
at least 48 inches deep. Place the post in the hole with the stapled
6” 10’ end down. Tamp about eight inches of dry sackrete mix tightly
Dia 5”-6” around the bottom. Continue alternating six inch layers of soil
3” and sackrete mix to ground level, finishing with soil. The soil
5” Brace Pin 10” Brace Pin
moisture will set up the sackrete mix. It is very important to finish
with soil at ground level so water around the post will have a way
1”
to dissipate. Set corner/end posts on a 2 to 3 inch lean away from
Direction of Pull
52” the direction of pull.

In-Line Strainer
2. Drill brace pin holes at a height of approximately 44 inches
from ground level, or where the top rail will be between the top
Note:
Double Wrap two wires. Next, drill a hole in the corner/end post approximately
Switch Wire
2 to 3 inches deep. Finally, drill a hole all the way through the
44” Use Pressure Treated Wood Posts inner brace post.
Barbed Staple
3. Drill holes approximately 2 to 3 inches deep at each end of the
cross member.
4. Insert a five inch brace pin into the hole that was previously
End Post Switch Wire Detail Brace Post Switch Wire Detail
drilled into the corner/end post. You should have 2 to 3 inches
of the pin left sticking out of the post. Install one side of the cross
member by sliding the hole in the end over the pin that was left
1” protruding from the corner/end post. Next, slide the cross member
Double
Wire Brace Pin into place. Use a hammer to drive the 10 inch brace pin through
Wrap
the hole in the brace post, and into the hole in the cross member.
Make sure to leave one inch of the brace pin protruding from of
the brace post. (Figure 4)

Figure 4 5. Drive a barbed staple at a downward angle approximately four

inches from the ground in the corner/end post. Hang another
staple on one leg of this staple to prevent the wire from digging
How to Build a Single “H” Brace (Figure 4) into the post. (Figure 4)
Components 6. Wrap the brace wire two times in a figure 8 pattern around
• Corner/end post: minimum 8’ x 6” .40 CCA treated pine the posts making sure to go over the top of the protruding brace
• Brace post: 8’ x 5”-6” .40 CCA treated pine pin, and below the staple at the bottom of the corner/end post.
• Cross member: 10’ x 4” .40 CCA treated pine (Figure 4)
• Optional cross member: 10’ x 2” SS-20 H.T. tubing
7. Use an in-line strainer or a chain grab to tension the brace
• 121/2 gauge high tensile wire
wire. If an in-line strainer is used: splice one end of the wire to
• In-line strainer
the strainer with a crimp sleeve, and put the other end into the
• 5” brace pin
ratchet. Use only a ratchet handle designed for the product you
• 10” brace pin
are using to tighten the strainer! If using a chain grab or other
• Barbed staples
tensioning device: Tension the wire; once the wire is properly
• Crimp sleeves
tensioned, splice the ends together with one long crimp sleeve or
Tools
three short crimp sleeves.
• In-line strainer rachet handle
• Drill
• Hammer
• Spinning Jenny
 cement posts in place. To handset a corner, end, or gate post
using cement; you should first hammer a ring of staples half way
into the wood near the base of the post. Dig your hole with an
6” inverse bell shape at the base of the hole. Make sure the hole is
Dia. 5”-6” 4”-5”
at least 48 inches deep. Place the post in the hole with the stapled
3”
5” Brace Pin 10” Brace Pin
end down. Tamp about eight inches of dry sackrete mix tightly
10” Brace Pin
around the bottom. Continue alternating six inch layers of soil
1” and sackrete mix to ground level, finishing with soil. The soil
moisture will set up the sackrete mix. It is very important to finish
52” Direction of Pull
with soil at ground level so water around the post will have a way
to dissipate. Set corner/end posts on a 2 to 3 inch lean away from
In-Line Strainer the direction of pull.
Note: Brace Post 2. Drill brace pin holes at a height of 44 inches from ground level,
Double Wrap
44”
Switch Wire
Use Pressure Treated Wood Posts
or where the top rail will be between the top two wires. Next, drill
the hole in the corner/end post approximately 2 to 3 inches deep.
Barbed Staple Finally, drill a hole all the way through the inner brace post and
8 ft. 8 ft.
the center brace post.

3. Drill holes approximately 2 to 3 inches deep at each end of

End Post Switch Wire Detail Brace Post Switch Wire Detail both cross members.
4. Insert a five inch brace pin into the hole that was previously
drilled into the corner/end post. You should have 2 to 3 inches
of the pin left sticking out of the post. Install one side of the first
1”
Double
Wire
cross member by sliding the hole in the end over the pin that was
Brace Pin
Wrap left protruding from the corner/end post. Next, slide the first cross
member into place. Use a hammer to drive a 10 inch brace pin
through the hole in the middle brace post, and into the hole in the
cross member. Make sure to leave at least three inches of the
brace pin sticking out of the middle brace post. Use this protruding
Figure 5 brace pin to install the second cross member. Hammer the second
10 inch brace pin through the inner brace post, and into the second
cross member. Remember to leave one inch of the brace pin
How to Build a Double “H Brace (Figure 5) protruding from the inner brace post. (Figure 5)
Components 5. Drive a barbed staple at a downward angle approximately four
• Corner/end post: minimum 8’ x 6” .40 CCA treated pine inches from the ground in the corner/end post. Hang another
• Middle brace post: 8’ x 5”-6” .40 CCA treated pine staple on one leg of this staple to prevent the wire from digging
• Brace post: 8’ x 4”-5” .40 CCA treated pine into the post. (Figure 5)
• 2 - Cross member posts: 8’ x 4” .40 CCA treated pine 6. Wrap the brace wire two times in a double figure 8 pattern
• 2 - Optional cross members: 8’ x 2” SS-20 H.T. tubing around all three posts. (Figure 5)
• 121/2 gauge high tensile wire
7. Use an in-line strainer, or a chain grab to tension the brace
• In-line strainer
wire. If an in-line strainer is used: splice one end of the wire to
• 5” brace pin
the strainer with a crimp sleeve, and put the other end into the
• 2-10” brace pins
ratchet. Use only a ratchet handle designed for the product you
• Barbed staples are using to tighten the strainer! If using a chain grab or other
• Crimp sleeves tensioning device: Tension the wire; once the wire is tensioned
Tools splice the ends together with one long crimp sleeve or three short
• In-line strainer rachet handle sleeves.
• Drill
• Hammer
• Spinning Jenny
• Wire Cutter Decreased Post Spacing
• Crimping tool 2” Lean Away From Curve Figure 6
• Tensioning Device (chain grab)
Setting The Fence Line
1. Position the brace by sighting down your newly created fence Line posts are generally smaller than brace posts and should
line. Brace posts should be set 48 inches into the ground. Drive measure between 31/2 – 41/2 inches in diameter and 61/2 to 8 feet
the small end of the post into the ground, or if holes were dug, in length.
Set line posts at a depth that allows approximately 52 inches of
working height above the ground.
In applications for heavy grazing maximum post spacing is 30 feet
on center with the use of fence stays. Fence stays should be 2 Short Crimping Sleeves
or 1 Long Crimping Sleeve
spaced evenly in between line posts. Post spacing should be less (for around posts)
if no stays are used.
Mark a spacer stick at the intervals you have chosen for your fence
line wires. Use this stick to transfer the correct wire spacing marks 3 Short Crimping Sleeves
to each line post in your system beginning with the bottom wire. or 1 Long Crimping Sleeve
Figure 9 (for inline splice)
Lay Of The Land
If your fence must curve, reduce post spacing in the curve area.
Keep fence wire on the outside of the curve. The spacing change
required will be determined by the severity of the curve. The
sharper the turn the more posts it will require. A very gradual
curve will not require post spacing to be greatly reduced. Set
posts on curves with a two inch lean to the outside of the curve.
(Figure 6)
If you must cross a depressed area, set a taller post at the bottom
of the depression and brace it down as shown. (Figure 7) If water
often runs through the depression, make the fence conform to
the land with a buried dead weight. (Figure 8) Figure 10

length of the fence to the next brace post. (Figure 10) Put a crimp
sleeve on the wire (don’t compress yet) then slide the wire through
the wrap-around insulator. Wrap the insulated wire around the
end post and compress the crimp sleeve. (Figure 9) Staple the
wrap-around insulator to the end post.
4. Distribute insulators to each post. Start at the end of the fence
that is already spliced in place. Staple the insulators to the posts
at the appropriate marks. Be sure that you don’t staple the
insulators too tightly; the wire should be able to slide.

Figure 7 5. After the insulators are all stapled in place, put a crimp sleeve
on the wire at the opposite end, then put on a wrap around
insulator. Wrap the insulated wire around the post, compress
the crimp sleeve, and staple the wrap-around to the post. Make
sure you leave at least 12 inches of slack in the wire for an
in-line strainer.
6. Repeat this process for all wires in the fence.
7. When all strands are attached, install an in-line strainer for
each strand of wire. You will need at least one strainer for every
wire in each section you pull. You can have a maximum of 4000
feet between strainers. Reduce pull by 500 feet for each corner.
Also reduce distance pulled if working over rough terrain.
Figure 8 8. Install a tension spring with one of the in-line strainers per
section. This will help you gauge the wire tension. If the tension
Assembling The Bekaert Smooth Wire Fence spring is nine inches; proper tension of 250 pounds has been
1. Work one strand at a time. reached when the spring is compressed to seven inches. If your
tension spring has two notches; the first notch indicates 150
2. If using four inch fin tube insulators in an electric application: pounds and the second notch indicates 250 pounds of tension.
count all posts, then subtract corner, end, and gate posts that will (Figure 10)
use wraparound insulators. Add extra insulators to insulate the
line wires from the brace wire. Pull out a small amount of wire 9. To increase the overall strength of your fence you can install
to add insulators. Put all fin tubes and wrap-around insulators on fence stays every 10 feet between posts. Plastic stays can be
wire before pulling the wire all the way out. used in all applications. For non-electric applications any type of
stay can be used. Steel stays can be used in electric applications
3. Position spinning jenny past the end post. Pull one strand the if all wires are hot.
Fence Materials Checklist
This worksheet will help you quickly estimate the amount of material, and
the approximate costs involved in building your new fence. Complete this
form and take it to your local Bekaert dealer, and they will help you place
your order right from this worksheet.
Smooth Wire
Length of fence in feet (5,280’ = 1 mile)
x Number of strands
= Total wire length needed (length of fence x
number of strands)
/ 4000 Divide by 4,000’
= Number of Bekaert 121/2 gauge high tensile coils needed
Barbed Wire
Length of fence in feet (5,280’ = 1 mile)
x Number of strands
= Total wire length needed (length of fence x
number of strands) Figure 11
/ 1320 Divide by 1,320’
= Number of Bekaert high tensile barbed wire reels needed
Field Fence
Length of fence in feet (5,280’ = 1 mile)
/ 330 Divide by 330’ Figure 12
= Number of Bekaert high tensile field fence rolls needed
Brace Wire Figure 13
You will need enough smooth wire to complete all braces in your
fence.
Posts
Length of line post (height of fence + depth of hole)
Number of wood line posts @ 30’ max spacing (use the
distance between brace posts for a given stretch, divide
by post spacing, and then subtract 1)
Length of corner/brace post (height of fence + depth
of hole)
Number of single corner and end brace posts (3 posts
per corner, 2 for end)
Number of double corner and end braces posts (5 posts
per corner, 3 for end)
Length of cross post (height of fence multiplied by 2.5, Assembling The Bekaert High Tensile
round to the nearest foot) Barbed Wire Fence
Number of cross member posts (2 for single corner, 1
for single end, 4 for double corner, and 2 for
double end)
1. Fasten one strand at a time to the anchor post at the appropriate
height. Start with the bottom wire. Wrap the strand around the
Fence Hardware
Number of fence stays/spacers (every 10’ between posts) post one time, and then splice it back on itself. Wrap the wire
Fence stay length (distance between top and around itself at least five times. Staple.
bottom wire)
Staples (Multiply the number of posts by number of 2. Unroll no more than two strands at a time. Pay out wire on
wires. Then divide by 52 to convert into pounds.
Staples are sold in 8 and 50 pound buckets.) the side you want your fence. Work one span at a time between
Crimp sleeves braces. Unroll the reels as pictured in (Figure 11) with the wire
In-line strainers being paid out from the bottom.
Tension springs
Line wire insulators (Number of line posts, multiplied by 3. If you start with less than a full reel and run out, carefully
number of wires, (plus extra to insulate brace wires)
Wrap-around insulators (1 for each corner, end, and splice a new strand onto the old by wrapping each end onto the
gate post per wire) other. Wrap each end 5-8 times. (Figure 12) Commercial crimp
Tools sleeves are available and work great for this application.
Drill
Pliers 4. After you have unrolled enough wire to complete the span,
Hammer walk the fence line to check for obstructions. After you have
Wire Cutter
Post Driver / Post Hole Digger cleared all obstructions you can tension the fence wire. You can
Spinning Jenny tension high tensile barbed wire using a chain grab or a come-
Crimping Tool
String along.
Flag Sticks
In-Line Strainer Ratchet Handle 5. Use a chain grab or come-along to tension Bekaert high tensile
Tensioning Device (chain-grab, come-along) barbed wire. First, attach the device to the wire and the end post.
Safety Gear Make sure you do not attach where your wire has to go. Next,
Eye Protection tension the wire. After the proper tension has been reached take
Leather Gloves the free end of the wire and pull it hand tight. Wrap this end
Protective Clothing
Safety Toe Boots around the end post one time. Finally tie off this wire by wrapping
it around itself at least five times. Carefully release the tensioning
device. (Figure 13)
6. When each strand has been attached and tensioned you can 5. If crimp sleeves are not used, leave six inches of line wire
begin stapling the strands to the posts. Begin stapling at the middle beyond the last vertical stay wire for each roll. Match the vertical
of the fence line and work your way to the ends. (If working over stay wires and wrap the free line wires from each fence onto the
hilly ground: staple the high points first, dips second, and then the opposite fence. (Figure 17)
rest of the fence.) (Figure 18)
6. After enough fence has been rolled out to reach the next brace,
7. You can increase the overall strength of your fence by using go back to check the fence line. Make sure the fence is free from
fence stays at 10 foot intervals over the length of the fence. obstructions, and will not get stuck on anything while tensioning.

Figure 14 7. Attach your stretcher bar to the fence near the middle of the
brace. Make sure you can reach the end post with your tensioning
device. When the stretcher bar is securely attached to the fence,
hook two tensioning devices into its loops. Attach the tensioning
device to end post and slowly tension the fence. (Figure 14) It
is a good idea to stop and recheck the fence line for obstructions
after you have started tensioning the fence. Finish tensioning
the fence.
8. After the fence is properly tensioned cut the end approximately
2-3 feet past the end post. Strip at least two vertical stays then
wrap and tie the line wires using the same method as the opposite
end post. Make sure to pull the free end of the fence as tight as
possible by hand before tying off. After all wires are tied off,
slowly release the tensioning device. Finally remove the stretcher
bar from the fence.
9. When the fence is tight and the stretcher bar has been removed
you can begin stapling. Start at the middle of the fence line and
staple at least every other line wire to the posts. Leave the staples
loose enough to allow the fence to move. (If working over hilly
ground: staple the high points first, dips second, and then the rest
Figure 16 of the fence.) (Figure 18)
Small Crimp Sleeve

170,000 PSI Wire

Small Crimp Sleeve

Stainless Steel Washer

COMMON FENCE
GROUNDING METHOD
Figure 17 Figure 18

Assembling a Bekaert High Tensile Field Fence

Field fence rolls are larger and heavier than smooth wire coils,
and barbed wire reels. You should spend the time necessary to Wrap Around Insulators

clear a fence line that is wide enough to unroll field fence.

1. Unroll the fence along the side of the posts you want it to be
placed with the bottom nearest the posts. The smaller openings Disconect
are the bottom of the fence. Leave approximately 2-3 extra CutOff Switch

feet of fencing at the end post. After you roll out approximately
25 feet stop and attach to the end post.
2. Strip the first two vertical stay wires so that you have at least
12 inches of line wire free. Place the last vertical stay wire against
the end post. Next take one of the middle line wires and wrap it
around the end post. Tie it off by wrapping it onto itself at least
five times. Use this method of attachment for all line wires. Figure 19
After all of the wires have been wrapped and tied, you can use a
few staples to hold the fence at the proper height.
Crossing Waterways
3. Slowly unroll the fence to the next brace.
Build Your Floodgate To Be Flexible
4. Splice new rolls in as needed. Commercial crimp sleeves are If your fence crosses a gully that occasionally floods, a creek, or
well worth their cost in this application. (Figure 16) an irrigation ditch, it’s best to build a floodgate extending from
 9 Common Fencing Configurations

Figure 21 Four Wire Cross Fencing

Figure 20

the bottom line wire to a depth equal to the water level or the
lowest point of the ditch.
A practical option for water crossings with electric fences, is to
attach wires hanging vertically from your bottom fence wire. You
can use the same high tensile wire that was used in the rest of
the fence. Some people like to use stainless steel washers as
weights attached at the bottom of these wires. The vertical wires
should be spaced 6-10 inches apart and cover the area over the
ditch or stream. Make sure the wires don’t touch the ground or
water. If you use this option you should insulate the bottom wire
crossing the stream from the rest of your fence by using wrap- Figure 22 Five Wire Fence for Cattle
around insulators. You can then add a cut-out switch so this water
crossing can be shut off if the water rises. (Figure 19)
A non-electric option for stream crossings less than 20’ is a panel
made from pressure treated 1” x 4” boards. First, attach a stranded
cable beneath your fence, attach it to the second post back on
each side of the ditch and pull tight. Next, cut the boards to
approximate the contour of the ditch, and then fasten the boards
into a single panel with class three, 9 gauge merchant wire, stapling
the wire to each board, leaving 4-6 inches between boards. Loop
the merchant wire at the top to form a hinge, allowing the panel
to swing on the stranded support cable. (Figure 20)

Figure 23 Five Wire Anti-Deer Fence, Penn State Design

 Figure 27

Common Barbed Wire & Field Fence Configurations

Figure 24 Six Wire Fence for Sheep & Hogs

Why Bekaert High Tensile
Fencing is the Best Choice!
1. Bekaert high tensile fencing is
lighter and stronger than
conventional fence wire.

2. Bekaert high tensile fencing with

class three coating has more than
double the galvanization of ordinary
fencing to last much longer.
Figure 25 Six Wire Fence for Cattle

3. Bekaert high tensile fencing is

easier to install. Its lighter weight
makes it easier to handle.

4. Bekaert high tensile fencing

requires very little maintenance.

5. Bekaert high tensile fence is

available with a traditional class
three galvanized coating, or an
aesthetically pleasing Bezinal® +
Figure 26 Eight Wire Fence for Cattle,Sheep & Goats
Always use your fence charger manufacture’s instructions. Paint coating.