GETTING STARTED WITH
HOUSEPLANT
PROPAGATION
BY BRITTANY GOLDWYN
Everything you need to
propagate 7 great plants!
bybrittanygoldwyn.com
IN THIS GUIDE
INTRODUCTION 3
CHAPTER 1 5
CHAPTER 2 12
CHAPTER 3 21
CHAPTER 4 29
CHAPTER 5 34
CHAPTER 6 40
CHAPTER 7 45
bybrittanygoldwyn.com
INTRODUCTION
WANT MORE PLANTS?
YOU'RE IN THE RIGHT PLACE.
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INTRODUCTION
Hi there, fellow plant lover!
I'm Brittany, owner of by Brittany
Goldwyn, a modern DIY, crafting, plant-
loving blog where I inspire others to
infuse creativity into daily life. And my
house is full of plants.
I love growing more plants from the
plants I already have, too. It can seem
intimidating, but a lot of houseplants
are easy to propagate if you know the
basics.
This guide shares 7 easy-to-propagate
houseplants to help you get your feet
wet with propagation. I promise—you
can do it! Enjoy.
[email protected]
instagram.com/brittanymerth
pinterest.com/bybrittanyg
facebook.com/bybrittanyg
© 2019, by Brittany Goldwyn 4
No part of this guide may be reproduced or distributed in any form
CHAPTER 1
POTHOS
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1 | POTHOS
PROPAGATING POTHOS
As much of a plant lover as I am, low
maintenance plants are my jam. So to
get started with my propagation guide,
I'm chatting about pothos plants—one
of the easiest plants to care for and to
propagate.
You might hear it called golden pothos,
silver vine, taro vine, devil’s vine, devil’s
ivy, and more. Although it looks like
some varieties of philodendron, it is
actually from an entirely different genus
—the genus Epipremnum. Pothos plants
are wonderful if you’re looking to get
your feet wet with houseplants but
don’t want something that is difficult to
keep alive.
You can check out my full pothos
plant care guide by clicking HERE.
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1 | POTHOS
WHY POTHOS?
In addition to being really low maintenance, one of the great things
about pothos plants is that they are really easy to propagate.
Growing pothos in water is super simple and can help you make
new plants from pothos cuttings. And since you'll sometimes want
to trim the ends of some of your longer pothos plants—or just do a
little pruning—you can put the cuttings to good use!
Here are just a few of the pothos plants I have around the house
that started out as cuttings from existing plants. Aren't they
beautiful?
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1 | POTHOS
ROOTING POTHOS IN WATER
Growing or propagating pothos cuttings in
water is simple and can help you make
new plants from cuttings. Here's how.
Step 1: Cut a few pieces or strands
from a plant. Remove leaves from the
bottom to make room for new root
growth.
Step 2: Stick the cut end of the pieces
into a jar with water. The ends should
be fully submerged.
Step 3: After a few weeks, you’ll see
new roots sprouting. Let the roots get a
few inches long, then plant in fresh soil.
If it looks a bit weepy for a few days, don’t
panic. Sometimes plants need some time
to rebound after being repotted, and this
is a brand new plant, too!
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1 | POTHOS
A FEW TIPS
While trimming plants, I have cut short and long stems to root. It’s
fine either way and just depends on how large of a plant you want
to start off with. Don’t forget that pothos plants grow like weeds
with just a little bit of care, so a small plant will becoming a large
plant in no time.
To create a big, bushy plant, cut a bunch of smaller pieces and
root those. Plant them all together in a dense mound (below,
center). As the plant grows, it will remain very full, like the plant on
the left below. Rooting longer strands or planting the shorter
cuttings less densely will lead to the plant below on the right.
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1 | POTHOS
A FEW TIPS
When you take your cuttings, make sure to include some nodes.
The new white roots will grow out of these. They usually just look
like little brown bumps on the stem. If your cutting doesn't have
anywhere to grow roots from, it will not survive on its own. I like to
let the roots get a few inches long before transplanting.
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1 | POTHOS
A FEW TIPS
You can root pothos cuttings in just about anything, but I like using
a clear container because I can easily tell when I need to add more
water and see when roots sprout. My glass jar plant propagation
station is great, as is a mason jar.
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CHAPTER 2
SNAKE PLANTS
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2 | SNAKE PLANTS
WHY SNAKE PLANTS
Snake plants are another fantastically low-maintenance plant to
keep around your home. And since they are so hardy, why not
grow more of them? Otherwise known as Sansevieria trifasciata or
mother-in-law’s tongue, the snake plant has been a houseplant
staple for a long time. It’s a striking plant with a variety of different
patterns and color variations, and it’s incredibly easy to find. Plus,
it’s probably one of the absolute easiest plants to care for.
Click HERE to check out my detailed snake plant care guide.
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2 | SNAKE PLANTS
PROPAGATING SNAKE PLANTS
There are four different ways to propagate snake plants, and some
are easier than others: by rhizome, by division, by cuttings rooted in
water, and by cuttings rooted in well-draining soil. (Click HERE for
my DIY succulent soil recipe.)
METHOD 1: BY RHIZOME CUTTING
One way to propagate snake plants is by rhizome. Rhizomes are
the whiteish root-like stem structures that connect the mother
plant to its babies. The rhizomes spread and sprout new plants. I’ve
taken a few pics of a small rhizome starting to sprout from the
mother plant below. They kind of look like garlic at this point.
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2 | SNAKE PLANTS
METHOD 1: BY RHIZOME CUTTING
To propagate by rhizome, use a clean, sharp knife to cut the
rhizome off of the plant. Let it callous over for a few days before
planting it. Here are two more photos of what things look like
below the surface of a snake plant with more mature rhizomes:
Here are another two photos of what those rhizomes will look like
when they start sprouting back up through the soil.
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2 | SNAKE PLANTS
METHOD 2: BY DIVISION
This is the method I used recently on my snake plant in the
living room (below, left). I took the entire plant out on a tarp,
brushed off the dirt, and found that the plant was connected by
one very large U-shaped rhizome. There were also loads of
smaller rhizomes (the kind you’d cut off in the previous
example). I cut the plant in half at the main rhizome and gently
separated the roots. The best practice is to wait a few days for
the freshly cut rhizome to harden over. But I didn’t want dirt
hanging out everywhere, so I just repotted half the plant back in
the white pot (below, center) and the other half in my new
modern hairpin leg planter build (below, right)!
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2 | SNAKE PLANTS
METHOD 3: IN WATER
This method is easiest but generally
takes a long time. I like to propagate
snake plant cuttings by rooting them
in water when one plant has a wonky
leaf I want to snip off. I simply cut the
leave off down near the soil and put it
in water.
I keep mine in indirect light and
change the water every week or so.
You can plant your cutting when roots
begin to sprout. The bottom photo
shows what one of the cuttings looks
like after about a month of rooting—
teeny tiny root sprouting.
(I have actually cut pieces and stuck
them right back into soil as a test.
They not only lived but thrived and
blended right in!)
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2 | SNAKE PLANTS
METHOD 4: IN SOIL USING CUTTINGS
To propagate a snake plant in soil using cuttings, snip a leaf off
of a plant near the soil line. Then cut that leaf in to smaller
pieces a few inches long. It’s very important to keep track of
which end was the bottom. They won’t grow if you put the top
end down in the soil. Let the cuttings callus over for a few days.
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2 | SNAKE PLANTS
METHOD 4: IN SOIL USING CUTTINGS
Plant each cutting with the
bottom end down in well-
draining soil. Keep moist. It
can take a month or so to
root and then another
month or so to get new leaf
growth. Even though it takes
a while, it’s a really
affordable way to start tons
of new plants!
I just lined my cuttings up
like this in one of those large
plastic salad containers. I
added a layer of perlite to
the bottom to help with
drainage. Some of them will
probably fail to root, but
that's okay. You'll still get a
good bang for your buck.
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2 | SNAKE PLANTS
METHOD 4: IN SOIL USING CUTTINGS
Here’s an update of a few of these cuttings a few months later.
It took about 4 months for the cuttings to root and begin to
sprout new growth—new plants! Once I saw the new growth
sprouting, I pulled the cuttings out and cut down the original
cutting, burying everything in fresh soil. I put them all in one
pot and set them in a sunny window, watering as usual. Now
we wait for the new plants to emerge!
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CHAPTER 3
PEPEROMIA
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3 | PEPEROMIA
WHY PEPEROMIA?
I am a real sucker for peperomia plants. They are the perfect
desktop plant. There are over 1,500 varieties, but four of the most
popular varieties you’ve probably seen are Obtusifolia (aka baby
rubber plant), Argyreia (aka watermelon peperomia), Argyreia (aka
red edge peperomia), and Caperata (aka ripple peperomia).
Check out my peperomia plant care guide by clicking HERE.
PROPAGATING PEPEROMIA
Like most plants, the best time for
propagation is spring and summer. Fall
and winter take longer, but it can be
done. The two main methods are in
water and in soil. But keep in mind that
variegated peperomia plants (like the
baby rubber plant) shouldn’t be
propagated from leaf cuttings. Only
stem cuttings in soil or water.
Propagating a leaf cutting can lead to it
losing its lovely color variegation.
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3 | PEPEROMIA
METHOD 1: IN WATER
The first easy way to propagate
peperomia is in water. The top
photo to the right is a peperomia
cutting(among other plants) in my
DIY test tube propagation station.
I simply cut off a stem and
popped it in water. Mine began
developing tiny white, almost-
translucent roots after about 6
weeks (bottom photo).
Give it a few more weeks once
you see the initial signs of the tiny
white roots. Then transplant it into
a small pot and continue to baby
it as you would any other new
plant. Keep it in a humid
environment, and keep it moist
(but with sufficient air flow so it
doesn’t get moldy).
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3 | PEPEROMIA
METHOD 1: IN WATER
Here’s an example of a peperomia cutting that has rooted in water
so well that it has actually started sprouting in the water! I planted
this one in fresh soil shortly after I took this picture. Isn’t that the
coolest?
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3 | PEPEROMIA
METHOD 2: IN SOIL
You can also propagate in soil. There are two ways to do so: by
using a leaf cutting or by using a tip/stem cutting. Let's talk stem
cutting, because that's the method I like. It’s best practice to cut a
stem with a few leaves. However, I’ve not always done this, and
the cuttings still do well. The most important thing is that the
cuttings come from healthy plants.
Dip the stem in a rooting
hormone powder. Then carefully
plant in a well-draining potting
soil. Once planted, you can create
the world tiniest greenhouse by
putting the planted cutting in a
large plastic bag or other clear
plastic item like a plastic bottle
cut in half. Adding holes to
whatever enclosure you decided
on will help with air circulation,
but you should still let the plant
breathe fresh air every few days.
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3 | PEPEROMIA
METHOD 2: IN SOIL
Tiny greenhouse is my official advice, but I am also going to tell
you the lazy way I do it. I just put my cuttings in a humid room with
a window (bathroom) planted in an old plastic salad container. This
helps keep some of the humidity in and let’s me reuse something.
After a few weeks/months, you’ll notice new plants begin to
sprout. It's very important to note that these plants will sprout
separately from the original leaf cutting. You can trim that cutting
down now—it's done its job!
You can see this growth
process illustrated in the photo
to the right. The original leaf
cutting is the large leaf. I took
this just before I trimmed it
down to the soil line. The
smaller cluster of leaves is the
fresh plant sprouting from the
new root system. It will get
stronger every day.
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3 | PEPEROMIA
METHOD 2: IN SOIL
Transplant the new baby plant into a different pot once it is large
enough to make the journey. Peperomia should always be planted
in a well-draining soil. Use this same kind of mixture when rooting
peperomia cuttings in soil.
The first photo below is after I transferred the new plant to its own
pot. The second is when it got large enough to get its
permanent home.
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3 | PEPEROMIA
METHOD 2: IN SOIL
You can even propagate peperomia plants in soil using leaf
cuttings (but remember to use this method only for solid varieties).
The process is the same as propagating by a stem cutting, except
you just need to cut off leaves with tiny stems on them and plant
those. You can use rooting hormone when propagating by leaf
cuttings as well.
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CHAPTER 4
RUBBER PLANT
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4 | RUBBER PLANT
WHY RUBBER PLANTS?
I love rubber plants. Their deep green (sometimes variegated),
thick, glossy leaves are really stunning, and they are a fairly patient
plant that can live just about anywhere in your home. Rubber plant
propagation is not difficult, but it does take some patience. Like
most plants, it’s best to take cuttings to re-root in spring and
summer. Use a well-draining potting soil for this, too.
Check out my full rubber plant care guide by clicking HERE.
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4 | RUBBER PLANTS
PROPAGATING RUBBER PLANTS
Propagating a rubber plant successfully starts with getting a great
cutting. Taking a cutting from the tip of a stem is best—these root
the most effectively. The cutting should be about 6 inches long,
and you should take it just below a leaf.
After you take the cutting, remove the bottom leaves from the
stem—this is what you’ll plant in the soil. If you’d like to use a
rooting hormone on the end of the cutting, you can. This will help
the roots develop more quickly. Plant your cutting in moist, well-
draining potting soil.
Note: When you take a cutting
from a rubber tree plant, you’ll
notice the milky gross sap it
has. This sap can be highly
irritating, so keep away from
pets and children, and wash
your hands immediately after.
You can see the sap beginning
to leak out in the picture at the
right.
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4 | RUBBER PLANTS
PROPAGATING RUBBER PLANTS
The rubber plant needs a little help
while the cutting is rooting in soil.
Many methods recommend putting
the cutting in a plastic bag to
create a tiny greenhouse. The
plastic bag creates a high humidity
environment. However, I do it the
lazy way in my plastic salad
container (see previous chapter!),
which has a similar effect.
I put the container in our second
bathroom right on the windowsill,
which gets really nice bright,
indirect light. Water if things get
dry. You want the soil to stay moist.
Roots should grow in about a
month, but don’t panic if it takes a
few months. You can gently tug at
the plant to check, but I’d wait
about a month before doing that.
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4 | RUBBER PLANTS
PROPAGATING RUBBER PLANTS
Once you’ve got roots, the next step is transplanting the cutting
into a new home. I would transplant it into a similarly sized pot and
continue babying it in an area that gets indirect light. Keep the soil
moist. Wait for new leaf growth, and then begin caring for your
new plant as you would any other rubber tree plant.
Air layering is another method used to propagate rubber plants,
but I’ve never tried it, and it seems more difficult. It’s done by
scraping off the bark around an area you want to root, then adding
rooting hormone and covering the ring with moss and plastic (to
keep things damp). When it develops roots after a few weeks, you
can cut the stem off just below the new roots.
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CHAPTER 5
SUCCULENTS
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5 | SUCCULENTS
WHY SUCCULENTS?
I couldn't decide whether or not to include a chapter on
succulents. To be honest, propagating succulents could probably
fill an entire book on its own! So please consider this an overview
to get you started. Indoor succulents are pretty simple to take care
of—the major killers are a lack of light and too much water.
Succulent lovers know they also come in a variety of really cool
colors, shapes, and sizes.
Check out my care tips for indoor succulents HERE.
PROPAGATING SUCCULENTS
I love propagating succulents, and at
any given time, I am propagating a
few of them. Either by choice or by
accident. That’s because
propagating succulents from
cuttings can be as easy as knocking
a leaf off of a plant and just letting it
chill in the soil for a few months. But
if you really want to baby your
succulent cuttings, there are a few
steps you can follow.
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5 | SUCCULENTS
METHOD 1: BY TAKING A CUTTING
One easy way to propagate a succulent
is by taking a cutting from an existing
plant. This method is generally the
fastest, but it makes more of an impact
on the plant since you have to remove a
larger part of it. Use clean scissors to
take a cutting. You can cut off the top of
a plant, or you can just cut an offshoot.
To plant the succulent cutting, let the cut end or base of the leaf
dry out for a few days. Drying the cut end is important because it
will help regulate how much water the cutting takes in when
rooting. Before planting your cutting, you can dip it in a bit of
powdered rooting hormone. Then just stick the stem in the soil like
any other plant.
Water the cutting when you notice the soil is dry. You’ll water more
than you would a full-grown succulent because this baby still
needs to develop roots. However, overwatering can lead to rot. You
can slow your watering to normal succulent levels when the cutting
has new growth.
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5 | SUCCULENTS
METHOD 2: USING A LEAF
Many varieties can be propagated using
leaves from an existing plant. That’s right—
just one leaf! This is a way to grow more
plants than you would be able to grow from
cuttings, but it takes longer because you’re
starting from scratch.
The key to removing a succulent leaf
successfully is making sure you have all of
the leaf. Do not leave any portion on the
stem, even if it’s just a tiny bit. This will help
the cutting develop.
You don’t plant the leaves like you’d plant a
cutting. Dab the cut end of each leaf in a
powdered rooting hormone and lay each out
on soil. You can even just lay them in
another plant's pot. Water the cuttings just
enough to wet the top of the soil. Don’t
overwater to soak the soil. Repeat each time
the soil feels dry on top.
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5 | SUCCULENTS
A FEW TIPS
It can take a while before you see new growth. Likely a few weeks
to a month depending on the temperature and humidity conditions.
I like to root stem cuttings in very small pots so they feel nice and
cozy. As the new plant grows, you can repot it into a slightly larger
pot. Or you can add it to a succulent arrangement.
For leaves, the process takes
much longer. After a few weeks,
you should notice stringy roots
sprouting from the leaf base—a
great sign! Eventually, you will
notice tiny new leaves emerging
as well. At this point, I like to
move the new plant to its own
small pot. Simply pat a bit of the
soil over the new roots. You can
gently remove the original leaf if
it's still there
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5 | SUCCULENTS
A FEW TIPS
Some of your leaves won't produce anything, and that's okay. They
could either shrivel up and die, or they could sprout roots but never
any new leaves. It’s frustrating, but I like to look at propagating
succulents, especially by leaf, as a trial-and-error process.
If you want more details about succulent propagation and care,
see the full detailed post I did by clicking HERE.
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CHAPTER 6
STRING OF PEARLS
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6 | STRING OF PEARLS
WHY STRING OF PEARLS?
The string of pearls plant—or
Senecio rowleyanus—is a beautiful
succulent with long string-like
stems covered in round pea- or
bead-like leaves. Hence the name
string of pearls or string of beads.
Wait, it's a succulent? So why didn't
I include it in the succulents
chapter? Because propagating it is
a little different, and I wanted to
make sure it got all of the attention
it deserves. If a string of pearls plant
is happy, it will grow like a weed.
The stems and leaves can get up to
3 ft long, and you can loop the
stems back in to the plant to
encourage fuller growth.
Check out my full string of pearls care guide by clicking HERE.
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6 | STRING OF PEARLS
PROPAGATING STRING OF PEARLS
Pruning or trimming your string of pearls plant is a great way to
keep it looking healthy and happy. And string of pearls is
extremely easy to propagate and grow new plants from cuttings!
There are two great ways to propagate string of pearls plants: by
rooting cuttings in water and by rooting cuttings in soil. But unlike
many other succulents, you don’t propagate string of pearls using
leaves; you propagate it using a stem cutting.
METHOD 1: IN WATER
Propagating string of pearls in
water is very similar to
propagating pothos cuttings in
water. You simply take a stem
cutting from your existing plant,
about 3–5 inches long. Then you
gently strip the leaves ("pearls")
off of the bottom third of the
stem. This is the area that will go
in water. Set in water and put in
an aread that gets good light.
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6 | STRING OF PEARLS
METHOD 1: IN WATER
Within a few days, you’ll see thin white (almost translucent looking)
roots begin to emerge from the nodes on the stem. The cuttings in
the picture on the previous page began to root in only about 24
hours! But I left them in the water for three days total so the roots
could get nice and long.
Then I gently planted the cuttings into a small container to root in
soil. Be careful not to knock off the new roots while planting; they
are still fragile. After a few weeks of further establishing roots, it’s
safe to say you have a new thriving plant. You can repot the string
of pearls into a slightly larger pot where it will live.
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6 | STRING OF PEARLS
METHOD 2: IN SOIL
I like water propagation because I like to monitor root
development. However, you can also propagation string of pearls
cuttings in soil. The steps are very similar to the water method,
except I’d make the cuttings a hair longer—about 5 inches so you
can get them securely planted. You’ll still remove the leaves from
the bottom third or so of the cutting to expose plenty of nodes.
Then you’ll plant it directly in well-draining soil. Don’t pack it down
too tightly and do not to over-water. Nothing will kill your new little
baby quicker than water log! You could also lay the cutting out
over soil and mist it to help it root.
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CHAPTER 7
MONSTERA
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7 | MONSTERA
WHY MONSTERA?
Monstera deliciosa plants are beautiful and trendy. They can bring
a lush tropical vibe to even the most suburban of living rooms (I
would know). They are easy to take care of and are fairly easy to
propagate if you're armed with the right knowledge.
PROPAGATING MONSTERA PLANTS
There are a few different ways to propagate a monstera cutting: in
water, in soil, and through air layering. My preferred method is
usually always in water. There is nothing more rewarding than
watching those roots develop!
Check out my full monstera care guide by clicking HERE.
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7 | MONSTERA
METHOD 1: IN WATER
When propagating a monstera deliciosa
plant in water, you can’t simply cut off a
stem and have it work. It won’t develop
any roots if it doesn’t have any nodes.
Aerial roots are also super helpful, and if
your plant already has some long ones
growing, you can grab a cutting with one
to speed up the process.
Here is the cutting I took. See the extra
little bit on the bottom and the little nub?
That’s what’s going to help this cutting
grow. If I’d just cut the stem off with none
of that, it would have withered and died a
slow, painful death.
Add the cutting to a jar of water and
refresh the water every week or so. Make
sure it is getting bright indirect sunlight.
Humidity is also a big bonus. If you live in a
hot, humid area that happens to have a
covered deck, that is the best spot!
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7 | MONSTERA
METHOD 1: IN WATER
If your cutting already had some aerial root growth on it, the
rooting process will be much faster. Once your cutting has some
nice new growth, you can plant it. Use a well-draining soil and
water the plant when the soil dries out. The leaves on your plant
may begin looking a bit sad as the plant’s roots adjust to their new
home. Have some patience and continuing babying your plant.
Honestly, you can just cut the original leaf off. It's just sucking up
energy from new growth.
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7 | MONSTERA
METHOD 2: IN SOIL
But if you want to skip rooting in water all together, you can just
plant your monstera cutting right after you take it off of the original
plant. You have all the same requirements for where to take the
cutting off a plant. A node is essential, an aerial root is great if you
can get one..
If you’re skipping the water rooting, I’d recommend dabbing your
cutting in rooting hormone before planting. Plant your cutting
gently in a pot with well-draining soil and keep it in the same
conditions as discussed on the previous page.
Propagating a monstera
cutting in soil takes a lot more
patience. That’s because you
can’t see any of the root
development as it’s
happening—the suspense! Is it
working? Are the roots
developing at all? WHEN
WILL WE KNOW? Well, you’ll
know when new growth
sprouts.
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7 | MONSTERA
METHOD 2: IN SOIL
A few weeks after I planted my cutting in soil, I cut it down to about
1 inch above the soil line. I continued to water and wait, giving this
guy plenty of bright, indirect light. I brought it outdoors many days.
After a week or so, a new sprout emerged, and it was pretty much
the cutest thing I'd ever seen.
Here is some of its progress over the next week. I actually took a
picture every day. It really did sprout quickly, and the day the new
leaf unwound was so exciting.
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7 | MONSTERA
METHOD 3: AIR LAYERING
Here’s a basic overview of how to use the air layering technique to
propagate a monstera deliciosa:
1. Get sphagnum moss, plastic
wrap, a knife, and string.
2. Find the spot you’d take a
cutting from if you were using
the previous two propagation
methods. Make a slice where
you’d cut it. Below a node.
3. Wrap the cut, node, and stem
with moist sphagnum moss.
Then wrap that in plastic wrap
and secure in place with string.
4. Re-moisten the moss when it
dries out. After a few months,
roots will begin to grow. Cut
the stem off at the original cut
you made and plant.
bybrittanygoldwyn.com 51
AND THAT'S A WRAP!
For more plant care tips, propagation guides, and DIY planter
ideas, visit me at my blog, bybrittanygoldwyn.com.
[email protected]
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bybrittanygoldwyn.com 52
