Insulation

the act of covering something
to stop heat, sound, or electricity from escaping or entering,
or the fact that something is covered in this way. A material
that is used to stop heat, sound, or electricity from escaping
or entering
Insulation in your home provides resistance to heat flow and
lowers your heating and cooling costs. Properly insulating
your home not only reduces heating and cooling costs, but
also improves comfort.
Insulation acts as a barrier to heat flow and is essential for keeping your home warm in winter and cool in
summer. A well-insulated and well-designed home provides year-round comfort, cutting cooling and
heating bills by up to half. This, in turn, reduces greenhouse gas emissions. Climatic conditions influence
the appropriate level and type of insulation. Establish whether the insulation is predominantly needed to
keep heat out or in (or both). Insulation must cater for seasonal as well as daily variations in temperature
(see ‘Insulation levels for your climate’ below).

Typical heat losses and gains without insulation in a

temperate climate.

Use passive design techniques in conjunction with insulation.

For example, if insulation is installed but the house is not
properly shaded, built-up heat can be kept in by the
insulation, creating an ‘oven’ effect. Draught sealing is also
important, as draughts can account for up to 25% of heat loss
from a home in winter (see Passive solar heating; Passive
cooling; Sealing your home).

Insulation can help with weatherproofing and eliminate

moisture problems such as condensation; some types of
insulation also have soundproofing qualities.

The most economical time to install insulation is during

construction. For information on retrofitting insulation, see
‘Adding insulation to existing buildings’ below.

Most common construction materials have a low insulating

value, but some require little or no additional insulation. Such
materials include aerated concrete blocks, hollow expanded
polystyrene blocks, straw bales and rendered extruded
polystyrene sheets.
Choosing insulation
Insulation products come in two main categories — bulk and reflective — which are sometimes
combined into a composite material. For the many different products available see ‘Insulation
types and their applications’ below.
To compare the insulating ability of the products available, we need to look at their R-value,
which measures resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the higher the level of
insulation. Products with the same R-value have the same insulating performance if installed as
specified.

Total R-values are supplied with reflective insulation and depend on the product being installed
as specified. R-values can differ depending on the direction of heat flow through the product.
The difference is generally marginal for bulk insulation but can be pronounced for reflective
insulation.
  ‘Up’ R-values describe resistance to heat flow upwards (sometimes known as ‘winter’ R-
values).
 ‘Down’ R-values describe resistance to heat flow downwards (sometimes known as
‘summer’ R-values).

Up and down R-values should be quoted when installing reflective insulation in roofs, ceilings
and floors.

Insulation types and their applications

Bulk insulation mainly resists the transfer of conducted and convected heat, relying on
pockets of trapped air within its structure. Its thermal resistance is essentially the same
regardless of the direction of heat flow through it.
Bulk insulation includes materials such as glass wool, wool, cellulose fibre, polyester and
polystyrene. All bulk insulation products come with one material R-value for a given thickness.

Bulk insulation traps air in still layers.

Reflective insulation mainly resists radiant heat flow due to its high reflectivity and low
emissivity (ability to re-radiate heat). It relies on the presence of an air layer of at least 25mm
next to the shiny surface. The thermal resistance of reflective insulation varies with the
direction of heat flow through it.
Reflective insulation is usually shiny aluminium foil laminated onto paper or plastic and is
available as sheets (sarking), concertina-type batts and multi-cell batts. Together these products
are known as reflective foil laminates, or RFL.
Dust settling on the reflective surface greatly reduces performance. Face reflective surfaces
downwards or keep them vertical. The anti-glare surface of single sided foil sarking should
always face upwards or outwards.
Source: SEAV 2002
Reflective insulation and heat flow.
The total R-values for reflective insulation are supplied as ‘up’ and ‘down’ values. Total values
depend on where and how the reflective insulation is installed. Ensure system values provided
by the manufacturer relate to your particular installation situation.
Composite bulk and reflective materials are available that combine some features of both
types. Examples include reflective foil faced blankets, foil backed batts and foil faced boards.

(JEPOY)How Insulation Works

To understand how insulation works it helps to understand heat flow, which involves three basic mechanisms --
conduction, convection, and radiation. Conduction is the way heat moves through materials, such as when a spoon
placed in a hot cup of coffee conducts heat through its handle to your hand. Convection is the way heat circulates
through liquids and gases, and is why lighter, warmer air rises, and cooler, denser air sinks in your home. Radiant
heat travels in a straight line and heats anything solid in its path that absorbs its energy.

Most common insulation materials work by slowing conductive heat flow and--to a lesser extent--convective heat
flow. Radiant barriers and reflective insulation systems work by reducing radiant heat gain. To be effective, the
reflective surface must face an air space.

Regardless of the mechanism, heat flows from warmer to cooler until there is no longer a temperature difference.
In your home, this means that in winter, heat flows directly from all heated living spaces to adjacent unheated
attics, garages, basements, and even to the outdoors. Heat flow can also move indirectly through interior ceilings,
walls, and floors--wherever there is a difference in temperature. During the cooling season, heat flows from the
outdoors to the interior of a house.

To maintain comfort, the heat lost in the winter must be replaced by your heating system and the heat gained in
the summer must be removed by your cooling system. Properly insulating your home will decrease this heat flow
by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.

R-Values
An insulating material’s resistance to conductive heat flow is measured or rated in terms of its thermal resistance
or R-value -- the higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness. The R-value depends on the type of
insulation, its thickness, and its density. The R-value of some insulations also depends on temperature, aging, and
moisture accumulation. When calculating the R-value of a multilayered installation, add the R-values of the
individual layers.

Installing more insulation in your home increases the R-value and the resistance to heat flow. In general, increased
insulation thickness will proportionally increase the R-value. However, as the installed thickness increases for
loose-fill insulation, the settled density of the product increases due to compression of the insulation under its own
weight. Because of this compression, loose-fill insulation R-value does not change proportionately with thickness.
To determine how much insulation you need for your climate, consult a local insulation contractor.

The effectiveness of an insulation material’s resistance to heat flow also depends on how and where the insulation
is installed. For example, insulation that is compressed will not provide its full rated R-value. The overall R-value of
a wall or ceiling will be somewhat different from the R-value of the insulation itself because heat flows more
readily through studs, joists, and other building materials, in a phenomenon known as thermal bridging. In
addition, insulation that fills building cavities densely enough to reduce airflow can also reduce convective heat
loss.

Unlike traditional insulation materials, radiant barriers are highly reflective materials that re-emit radiant heat
rather than absorbing it, reducing cooling loads. As such, a radiant barrier has no inherent R-value.

Although it is possible to calculate an R-value for a specific radiant barrier or reflective insulation installation, the
effectiveness of these systems lies in their ability to reduce heat gain by reflecting heat away from the living space.

The amount of insulation or R-value you'll need depends on your climate, type of heating and cooling system, and
the part of the house you plan to insulate. To learn more, see our information on adding insulation to an existing
house or insulating a new house. Also, remember that air sealing and moisture control are important to home
energy efficiency, health, and comfort.
(CHUPENG)Types of Insulation
WHERE INSTALLATION
TYPE MATERIAL ADVANTAGES
APPLICABLE METHODS

Fiberglass Do-it-yourself.
Unfinished walls,
Blanket: Mineral (rock or slag) Suited for standard stud
including Fitted between studs, and joist spacing that is
batts and wool
foundation walls joists, and beams.
rolls relatively free from
Plastic fibers
Floors and ceilings obstructions. Relatively
Natural fibers inexpensive.

Concrete Foam board, to be Unfinished walls, Require specialized Insulating cores

block placed on outside of including skills increases wall R-value.
insulation wall (usually new foundation walls
Insulating concrete Insulating outside of
construction) or inside
and New construction blocks are sometimes concrete block wall
of wall (existing
insulating or major stacked without places mass inside
homes):
concrete renovations mortar (dry-stacked) conditioned space,
blocks Some manufacturers and surface bonded. which can moderate
Walls (insulating
incorporate foam beads indoor temperatures.
concrete blocks)
or air into the concrete
Autoclaved aerated
mix to increase R-
concrete and
values
autoclaved cellular
concrete masonry units
have 10 times the
insulating value of
 WHERE INSTALLATION
TYPE MATERIAL ADVANTAGES
APPLICABLE METHODS

conventional concrete.

Interior applications:
must be covered with
Unfinished walls, 1/2-inch gypsum High insulating value for
including relatively little
Polystyrene board or other
Foam foundation walls building-code thickness.
board or Polyisocyanurate
Floors and ceilings approved material for Can block thermal short
rigid foam fire safety. circuits when installed
Polyurethane
Unvented low- continuously over
slope roofs Exterior applications:
frames or joists.
must be covered with
weatherproof facing.

Unfinished walls,
Insulation is literally
Insulating including
Foam boards or foam Installed as part of the built into the home's
concrete foundation walls
blocks building structure. walls, creating high
forms (ICFs) for new
thermal resistance.
construction

Enclosed existing
wall or open new Good for adding
Cellulose
wall cavities insulation to existing
Loose-fill Blown into place using
Fiberglass finished areas,
and blown- Unfinished attic special equipment,
irregularly shaped
in Mineral (rock or slag) floors sometimes poured in.
areas, and around
wool
Other hard-to- obstructions.
reach places

Do-it-yourself.

Suitable for framing at

standard spacing.

Foil-faced kraft paper, Foils, films, or papers Bubble-form suitable if

Reflective plastic film, Unfinished walls, fitted between wood- framing is irregular or if
system polyethylene bubbles, ceilings, and floors frame studs, joists, obstructions are
or cardboard rafters, and beams. present.

Most effective at
preventing downward
heat flow, effectiveness
depends on spacing.

Rigid Fiberglass Ducts in HVAC contractors Can withstand high

 WHERE INSTALLATION
TYPE MATERIAL ADVANTAGES
APPLICABLE METHODS

unconditioned
spaces
fabricate the
fibrous or Other places insulation into ducts
fiber Mineral (rock or slag) requiring temperatures.
either at their shops or
insulation wool insulation that can at the job sites.
withstand high
temperatures

Enclosed existing
Cementitious Applied using small Good for adding
wall
Sprayed spray containers or in insulation to existing
foam and Phenolic Open new wall larger quantities as a finished areas,
foamed-in- Polyisocyanurate cavities pressure sprayed irregularly shaped
place (foamed-in-place) areas, and around
Polyurethane Unfinished attic
product. obstructions.
floors

SIP-built houses provide

superior and uniform
Structural Foam board or liquid Unfinished walls, Construction workers
insulation compared to
insulated foam insulation core ceilings, floors, fit SIPs together to
more traditional
panels and roofs for new form walls and roof of
Straw core insulation construction methods;
(SIPs) construction a house.
they also take less time
to build.

(KERBIE)
Blanket: Batt and Roll Insulation
Blanket insulation -- the most common and widely available type of insulation -- comes in the form of
batts or rolls. It consists of flexible fibers, most commonly fiberglass. You also can find batts and rolls
made from mineral (rock and slag) wool, plastic fibers, and natural fibers, such as cotton and sheep's
wool. Learn more about these insulation materials.

Batts and rolls are available in widths suited to standard spacing of wall studs, attic trusses or rafters,
and floor joists: 2 inch x 4 inch walls can hold R-13 or R-15 batts; 2 inch x 6 inch walls can use R-19 or R-
21 products. Continuous rolls can be hand-cut and trimmed to fit. They are available with or
without facings. Manufacturers often attach a facing (such as kraft paper, foil-kraft paper, or vinyl) to act
as a vapor barrier and/or air barrier. Batts with a special flame-resistant facing are available in various
widths for basement walls and other places where the insulation will be left exposed. A facing also helps
facilitate fastening during installation.

See the table below for an overview of standard and high-performance (medium-density and high-
density) fiberglass blankets and batts characteristics.

Fiberglass Batt Insulation Characteristics

This table is for comparison of fiberglass batts only. Determine actual thickness, R-value, and cost from
manufacturer and/or local building supplier.

R-  
THICKNESS (INCHES) COST (CENTS/SQ. FT.)
VALUE
 
3 1/2 11 12-16 Concrete Block Insulation
3 5/8 13 15-20 Concrete blocks are used to build home foundations
3 1/2 (high density) 15 34-40 and walls, and there are several ways to insulate
them. If the cores aren’t filled with steel and
6 to 6 1/4 19 27-34 concrete for structural reasons, they can be filled
with insulation, which raises the average wall R-
5 1/4 (high density) 21 33-39 value. Field studies and computer simulations have
8 to 8 1/2 25 37-45 shown, however, that core filling of any type offers
little fuel savings, because heat is readily conducted
8 (high density) 30 45-49 through the solid parts of the walls such as block
webs and mortar joints.
9 1/2 (standard) 30 39-43
It is more effective to install insulation over the
12 38 55-60
surface of the blocks either on the exterior or
interior of the foundation walls. Placing insulation
on the exterior has the added advantage of containing the thermal mass of the blocks within the
conditioned space, which can moderate indoor temperatures.

Some manufacturers incorporate polystyrene beads into concrete blocks, while others make concrete
blocks that accommodate rigid foam inserts.

In the United States, two varieties of solid, precast autoclaved concrete masonry units are now
available: autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC) and autoclaved cellular concrete (ACC). This material
contains about 80% air by volume and has been commonly used in Europe since the late 1940s.
Autoclaved concrete has ten times the insulating value of conventional concrete. The blocks are large,
light, and easily sawed, nailed, and shaped with ordinary tools. The material absorbs water readily, so it
requires protection from moisture. Precast ACC uses fly ash instead of high-silica sand, which
distinguishes it from AAC. Fly ash is a waste ash produced from burning coal in electric power plants.

Hollow-core units made with a mix of concrete and wood chips are also available. They are installed by
stacking the units without using mortar (dry-stacking) and filling the cores with concrete and structural
steel. One potential problem with this type of unit is that the wood is subject to the effects of moisture
and insects.
Concrete block walls are typically insulated or built with insulating concrete blocks during new home
construction or major renovations. Block walls in existing homes can be insulated from the inside. Go
to insulation materials for more information about the products commonly used to insulate concrete
block.

Foam Board or Rigid Foam

Foam boards -- rigid panels of insulation -- can be used to insulate almost any part of your home, from
the roof down to the foundation. They are very effective in exterior wall sheathing, interior sheathing
for basement walls, and special applications such as attic hatches. They provide good thermal resistance
(up to 2 times greater than most other insulating materials of the same thickness), and reduce heat
conduction through structural elements, like wood and steel studs. The most common types of materials
used in making foam board include polystyrene, polyisocyanurate (polyiso), and polyurethane.

Insulating Concrete Forms

Insulating concrete forms (ICFs) are basically forms for poured concrete walls, which remain as part of
the wall assembly. This system creates walls with a high thermal resistance, typically about R-20. Even
though ICF homes are constructed using concrete, they look like traditional stick-built homes.

ICF systems consist of interconnected foam boards or interlocking, hollow-core foam insulation blocks.
Foam boards are fastened together using plastic ties. Along with the foam boards, steel rods (rebar) can
be added for reinforcement before the concrete is poured. When using foam blocks, steel rods are often
used inside the hollow cores to strengthen the walls.

The foam webbing around the concrete-filled cores of blocks can provide easy access for insects and
groundwater. To help prevent these problems, some manufacturers make insecticide-treated foam
blocks and promote methods for waterproofing them. Installing an ICF system requires an experienced
contractor, available through the Insulating Concrete Form Association.

Loose-Fill and Blown-In Insulation

Loose-fill insulation consists of small particles of fiber, foam, or other materials. These small particles
form an insulation material that can conform to any space without disturbing structures or finishes. This
ability to conform makes loose-fill insulation well suited for retrofits and locations where it would be
difficult to install other types of insulation.

The most common types of materials used for loose-fill insulation include cellulose, fiberglass, and
mineral (rock or slag) wool. All of these materials are produced using recycled waste materials. Cellulose
is primarily made from recycled newsprint. Most fiberglass products contain 40% to 60% recycled glass.
Mineral wool is usually produced from 75% post-industrial recycled content. The table below compares
these three materials.

Recommended Specifications by Loose-Fill Insulation Material

  CELLULOSE FIBERGLASS ROCK WOOL  

Density in lb/ft3 (kg/m3) 1.5–2.0 (24–36) 0.5–1.0 (10–14) 1.7 (27)  

Weight at R-38 in lb/ft2 (kg/m2) 1.25–2.0 (6–10) 0.5–1.2 (3–6) 1.6–1.8 (8–9)

 

For Attic Applications

FIBERGLAS  
  CELLULOSE ROCK WOOL
S
 
OK for 1/2" drywall, 24" on center? No Yes No  
OK for 1/2" drywall, 16" on center? Yes Yes Yes  
OK for 5/8" drywall, 24" on center? Yes Yes Yes Some less common loose-fill
insulation materials include
polystyrene beads and
vermiculite and perlite. Loose-fill insulation can be installed in either enclosed cavities such as walls, or
unenclosed spaces such as attics. Cellulose, fiberglass, and rock wool are typically blown in by
experienced installers skilled at achieving the correct density and R-values. Polystyrene beads,
vermiculite, and perlite are typically poured.

The Federal Trade Commission has issued the “Trade Regulation Rule Concerning the Labeling and
Advertising of Home Insulation” (16 CFR Part 460). The Commission issued the R-value Rule to prohibit,
on an industry-wide basis, specific unfair or deceptive acts or practices. The Rule requires that
manufacturers and others who sell home insulation determine and disclose each products’ R-value and
related information (e.g., thickness, coverage area per package) on package labels and manufacturers’
fact sheets. R-value ratings vary among different types and forms of home insulations and among
products of the same type and form.

. For loose-fill insulation, each manufacturer must determine the R-value of its product at settled density
and create coverage charts showing the minimum settled thickness, minimum weight per square foot,
and coverage area per bag for various total R-values.

This is because as the installed thickness of loose-fill insulation increases, its settled density also
increases due to compression of the insulation under its own weight.  Thus, the R-value of loose-fill
insulation does not change proportionately with thickness. The manufacturers’ coverage charts specify
the bags of insulation needed per square foot of coverage area; the maximum coverage area for one bag
of insulation; the minimum weight per square foot of the installed insulation; and the initial and settled
thickness of the installed insulation needed to achieve a particular R-value.

Radiant Barriers and Reflective Insulation Systems

Unlike most common insulation systems, which resist conductive and sometimes convective heat flow,
radiant barriers and reflective insulation work by reflecting radiant heat. Radiant barriers are installed in
homes -- usually in attics -- primarily to reduce summer heat gain, which helps lower cooling costs.
Reflective insulation incorporates radiant barriers -- typically highly reflective aluminum foils -- into
insulation systems that can include a variety of backings, such as kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene
bubbles, or cardboard, as well as thermal insulation materials.
Radiant heat travels in a straight line away from any surface and heats anything solid that absorbs its
energy. When the sun heats a roof, it's primarily the sun's radiant energy that makes the roof hot. A
large portion of this heat travels by conduction through the roofing materials to the attic side of the
roof. The hot roof material then radiates its gained heat energy onto the cooler attic surfaces, including
the air ducts and the attic floor. A radiant barrier reduces the radiant heat transfer from the underside
of the roof to the other surfaces in the attic. To be effective, it must face an air space.

Radiant barriers are more effective in hot climates, especially when cooling air ducts are located in the
attic. Some studies show that radiant barriers can lower cooling costs 5% to 10% when used in a warm,
sunny climate. The reduced heat gain may even allow for a smaller air conditioning system. In cool
climates, however, it's usually more cost-effective to install more thermal insulation.

Rigid Fiber Board Insulation

Rigid fiber or fibrous board insulation consists of either fiberglass or mineral wool material and is
primarily used for insulating air ducts in homes. It is also used when there's a need for insulation that
can withstand high temperatures. These products come in a range of thicknesses from 1 inch to 2.5
inches.

Installation in air ducts is usually done by HVAC contractors, who fabricate the insulation at their shops
or at job sites. On exterior duct surfaces, they can install the insulation by impaling it on weld pins and
securing with speed clips or washers. They can also use special weld pins with integral-cupped head
washers. Unfaced boards can then be finished with reinforced insulating cement, canvas, or
weatherproof mastic. Faced boards can be installed in the same way, and the joints between boards
sealed with pressure-sensitive tape or glass fabric and mastic.

Sprayed-Foam and Foamed-In-Place Insulation

Liquid foam insulation materials can be sprayed, foamed-in-place, injected, or poured. Foam-in-place
insulation can be blown into walls, on attic surfaces, or under floors to insulate and reduce air
leakage. Some installations can yield a higher R-value than traditional batt insulation for the same
thickness, and can fill even the smallest cavities, creating an effective air barrier. You can use the small
pressurized cans of foam-in-place insulation to reduce air leakage in holes and cracks, such as window
and door frames, and electrical and plumbing penetrations.

Types of Foam Insulation

Today, most foam materials use foaming agents that don't use chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) or
hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs), which are harmful to the earth's ozone layer.

There are two types of foam-in-place insulation: closed-cell and open-cell. Both are typically made with
polyurethane. With closed-cell foam, the high-density cells are closed and filled with a gas that helps the
foam expand to fill the spaces around it. Open-cell foam cells are not as dense and are filled with air,
which gives the insulation a spongy texture.

The type of insulation you should choose depends on how you will use it and on your budget. While
closed-cell foam has a greater R-value and provides stronger resistance against moisture and air leakage,
the material is also much denser and is more expensive to install. Open-cell foam is lighter and less
expensive but should not be used below ground level where it could absorb water. Consult a
professional insulation installer to decide what type of insulation is best for you.

Available foam insulation materials include:

 Cementitious

 Phenolic

 Polyisocyanurate (polyiso)

 Polyurethane.

Some less common types include Icynene foam and Tripolymer foam. Icynene foam can be either
sprayed or injected, which makes it the most versatile. It also has good resistance to both air and water
intrusion. Tripolymer foam—a water-soluble foam—is injected into wall cavities. It has excellent
resistance to fire and air intrusion.

Installation

Liquid foam insulation -- combined with a foaming agent -- can be applied using small spray containers
or in larger quantities as a pressure-sprayed (foamed-in-place) product. Both types expand and harden
as the mixture cures. They also conform to the shape of the cavity, filling and sealing it thoroughly.

Slow-curing liquid foams are also available. These foams are designed to flow over obstructions before
expanding and curing, and they are often used for empty wall cavities in existing buildings. There are
also liquid foam materials that can be poured from a container.

Installation of most types of liquid foam insulation requires special equipment and certification and
should be done by experienced installers. Following installation, an approved thermal barrier equal in
fire resistance to half-inch gypsum board must cover all foam materials. Also, some building codes don't
recognize sprayed foam insulation as a vapor barrier, so installation might require an additional vapor
retarder.

Costs

Foam insulation products and installation usually cost more than traditional batt insulation. However,
foam insulation has higher R-values and forms an air barrier, which can eliminate some of the other
costs and tasks associated with weatherizing a home, such as caulking, applying housewrap and vapor
barrier, and taping joints. When building a new home, this type of insulation can also help reduce
construction time and the number of specialized contractors, which saves money.

Structural Insulated Panels

Structural insulated panels (SIPs) are prefabricated insulated structural elements for use in building
walls, ceilings, floors, and roofs. They provide superior and uniform insulation compared to more
traditional construction methods (stud or "stick frame"), offering energy savings of 12% to 14%. When
installed properly, SIPs also result in a more airtight dwelling, which makes a house quieter and more
comfortable.
SIPs not only have high R-values but also high strength-to-weight ratios. A SIP typically consists of 4- to
8-inch-thick foam board insulation sandwiched between two sheets of oriented strand board (OSB) or
other structural facing materials. Manufacturers can usually customize the exterior and interior
sheathing materials to meet customer requirements. The facing is glued to the foam core, and the panel
is then either pressed or placed in a vacuum to bond the sheathing and core together.

SIPs can be produced in various sizes or dimensions. Some manufacturers make panels as large as 8 by
24 feet, which require a crane to erect.

The quality of SIP manufacturing is very important to the long life and performance of the product. The
panels must be glued, pressed, and cured properly to ensure that they don't delaminate. The panels also
must have smooth surfaces and edges to prevent gaps from occurring when they're connected at the
job site. Before purchasing SIPs, ask manufacturers about their quality control and testing procedures
and read and compare warranties carefully. SIPs are available with different insulating materials, usually
polystyrene or polyisocyanurate foam.

Installation

SIPs are made in a factory and shipped to job sites. Builders then connect them together to construct a
house. For an experienced builder, a SIPs home goes up much more quickly than other homes, which
saves time and money without compromising quality. These savings can help offset the usually higher
cost of SIPs.

Many SIP manufacturers also offer "panelized housing kits." The builder need only assemble the pre-cut
pieces, and additional openings for doors and windows can be cut with standard tools at the
construction site.

When installed according to manufacturers' recommendations, SIPs meet all building codes and pass the
American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) standards of safety. In buildings constructed of SIPs,
fire investigators have found that the panels held up well. For example, in one case a structure fire
exceeded 1,000°F (538°C) in the ceiling areas and 200°F (93°C) near the floors, and most wall panels and
much of the ceiling remained intact. An examination of the wall panels revealed that the foam core had
neither melted nor delaminated from the skins. In similar cases, a lack of oxygen seemingly caused the
fire to extinguish itself. The air supply in an airtight SIP home can be quickly consumed in a fire.
(LAGRAMA) Where to install insulation
Roofs and ceilings work in conjunction when it comes to insulation.

For optimal energy efficiency, your home should be properly insulated from the roof down to its
foundation. The illustration above shows all the areas of the home where there should be insulation.
The numbered areas shown in the illustration are as follows:

1. In unfinished attic spaces, insulate between and over the floor joists to seal off living spaces below. If
the air distribution is in the attic space, then consider insulating the rafters to move the distribution into
the conditioned space.

(1A) Attic access door

2. In finished attic rooms with or without dormer, insulate (2A) between the studs of "knee" walls, (2B)
between the studs and rafters of exterior walls and roof, (2C) and ceilings with cold spaces above.

(2D) Extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.

3. All exterior walls, including (3A) walls between living spaces and unheated garages, shed roofs, or
storage areas; (3B) foundation walls above ground level; (3C) foundation walls in heated basements,
full wall either interior or exterior.

4. Floors above cold spaces, such as vented crawl spaces and unheated garages. Also insulate (4A) any
portion of the floor in a room that is cantilevered beyond the exterior wall below; (4B) slab floors built
directly on the ground; (4C) as an alternative to floor insulation, foundation walls of unvented crawl
spaces. (4D) Extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.

5. Band joists.

6. Replacement or storm windows and caulk and seal around all windows and doors.

 Install insulation under the roofing material to reduce radiant heat gain.
  Install insulation in the ceiling to reduce heat gain and loss. In most cases ceiling insulation is
installed between the joists (see Insulation installation).

To reduce the risk of electrical short circuiting, electrically conductive insulation must not be laid across
ceiling surfaces or ceiling joists, or under subfloors. Electrically conductive insulation must also be
secured with non-conductive staples.

Veranda roofs should be insulated in hot climates where outdoor living spaces are used extensively, to
reduce radiant heat gain. Heat build-up under verandas not only affects the space below but can affect
conditions inside the house.

Bulkheads (wall sections between ceilings of different heights) must be insulated to the same level as
the ceiling, as they are subjected to the same temperature extremes.

External walls should be insulated to reduce radiant, conducted and convected heat transfer. Wall
insulation can be installed:

 within cavities

 within stud frames

 on the outside of stud frames

 on the inside or outside of solid walls.

Depending on the particular situation, some forms of insulation can double as a vapour or moisture
barrier.

Floors require insulation in cool climates and often in other climates. Insulate the underside of
suspended floors:

 in cool temperate and alpine climates

 in temperate climates in some cases (see previous section)

 in high humid and hot dry climates where air conditioning is used.

Insulate the edge of slabs-on-ground:

 in cool temperate and alpine climates

 in temperate climates where slab heating is used.

Insulate the underside of slabs-on-ground:

 in alpine climates

 where groundwater is present.

Enclosing subfloor spaces in mixed climates may be sufficient to reduce heat transfer.
(NICHOLE) THE PROS AND CONS OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF INSULATION
There are several types of insulation, including spray foam, cellulose, attic, and crawlspace insulation.
Each type has a unique set of pros and cons and ideal uses. Every form of insulation has a different R-
value, which measures an insulation’s thermal resistance or ability to block the movement of heat.

SPRAY FOAM

Spray polyurethane foam, otherwise known as spray foam, is a blend of chemicals that react to create a
foamy material. 

PROS

 Expands quickly after it is applied and fits easily into a home’s crevices

 Great for crawlspaces, knee walls, basement rim joists, bonus rooms, and more

 Acts as an air sealant, keeping air from escaping through small gaps and holes

 High R-value of up to R-6.9 per inch

 Water resistant

 Long-lasting

 Sag-resistant

CONS
  Should be installed by professionals

 More expensive than other types of insulation

 Must vacate your home for at least 12 hours during installation

 Poorly mixed chemicals can lead to health risks and ineffective insulation

CELLULOSE

Cellulose insulation is made of small pieces of paper that are broken down into fibers. They are then
treated with a mineral that provide flame-retardancy and withstands pests and mold.

PROS

 Made from up to 85% recycled materials

 Prevents certain materials from sitting in landfills and producing greenhouse gasses

 Class 1 Fire Rating and can help control the spread of fire

 Fits easily around objects to improve insulation’s effectiveness

 Inexpensive compared to other types of insulation

 Works well for attics

CONS

 Not waterproof and prone to moisture

 Vulnerable to rot and mold when it gets wet

 Not an air barrier, so it must be paired with air sealing to meet ENERGY STAR standards

 Low R-value of up to R-3.7 per inch when compared to spray foam insulation

ATTIC

Attics are often under-insulated and not air sealed, causing high energy bills and conditioned air to
escape. Cellulose insulation paired with air sealing is a popular choice for attics due to its quality of easily
fitting around obstacles.

PROS

 Lower energy bills

 Improve indoor air quality and comfort

 HVAC doesn’t need to work as hard

 Control sources of moisture

 Can provide a long-term solution to ice dams

 Eliminate drafts
CONS

 Should be air sealed along with insulated

 Cellulose insulation should be installed by a professional

CRAWLSPACE

Crawlspaces are the area between the ground and the first floor. Unsurprisingly, crawlspaces aren’t
usually the first place people think about when they are looking to upgrade their insulation. However,
uninsulated crawlspaces can develop problems, such as mold or musty smells. Mold is especially
problematic to the health of those suffering from asthma or allergies. Crawlspaces are usually insulated
with closed cell spray foam insulation because it is water resistant.  

PROS

 Improve comfort and energy efficiency

 Reduce bugs and critters

 Lower dust levels

 Improve indoor air quality

 Prevent mold and smells from forming

CONS

 Spray foam insulation should be installed by a professional

 Can be more expensive than other types of insulation

[Link]

[Link]

[Link]/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation

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Quiz

1.