Riesling
Germany‘s white star
Wines of
Germany
germanwines.de
2 one grape, endless possibilities one grape, endless possibilities 3
“Wines of Germany offer best value The nuances that develop with age and/or the honeyed tones of botrytis add
for money in every price category.” yet other dimensions to a Riesling’s personality. In terms of body or weight,
Joe Wadsack, BBC London they can be as ethereal as the wings of a butterfly; steely and sleek; buxom or
opulently rich. The finest linger long on the palate...wines that can make a
“memory worth treasuring” or a collector’s item. Last but not least, Riesling
is unparalleled in its ability to bring forth brilliant wines of all styles, from
bone dry to lusciously sweet, thus making it an extraordinarily versatile food
companion and welcome guest to enhance all sorts of occasions, from a casual
get-together to a very special celebration.
one grape, endless
possibilities
The noble Riesling grape yields wines
of great elegance, complexity and lon-
gevity. Firm, fruity acidity is a hallmark
shared by all, yet German Rieslings are
remarkably diverse due to differences
in region, terroir, and ripeness at har-
vest. These natural factors are reflected
in Riesling’s broad spectrum of aromas
and flavors, ranging from citrus or crisp
apple, to ripe peaches or tropical fruit,
often layered with a mineral, herbal or
spicy finesse.
Riesling – Germany‘s white star Riesling – Germany‘s white star
4 one grape, endless possibilities one grape, endless possibilities 5
Riesling is cultivated in all 13 German wine-growing regions, traditionally Riesling, which develops a multitude of natural aromas only toward the end
in the steep or sloping valleys of the Rhine and Mosel Rivers and their tribu- of its ripening phase, best thrives in northerly and/or high-altitude cool cli-
taries (Ahr, Nahe, Saar, Ruwer, Neckar) that straddle the 50th degree of lati- mates that provide a long growing season. In addition to its traditional homes
tude (like Mongolia, Kiev or Newfoundland). These regions are climatically in Germany, Austria, and Alsace, it is successfully cultivated around the world:
influenced by the Gulf Stream and its moderate summer-winter temperature in the USA (Finger Lakes/NY, Oregon, Washington, northern California)
fluctuations, while regions further east (Franken, Saale-Unstrut, Sachsen) are and Canada; high-altitude sites in South America; South Africa; Australia
marked by the hot summers and often, very cold winters of a continental cli- and New Zealand.
mate that leaves grapes more vulnerable to late spring or early autumn frosts.
Although less conducive to late-ripening varieties, Riesling can thrive there Riesling grows in Germany on about 24,000 ha. That means about 50 percent
in the warmth of microclimates created by ancient stone terraces on many a of the world’s Riesling vineyards are located here.
steep slope overlooking the Main, Saale, Unstrut, and Elbe rivers.
“Riesling alone makes pure wine,
innocent of oak, that precisely reflects
its origin, in a range from flowery and
feather-light, through tense, dry, and
mineral-laden to unctuous and creamy...
Nerve, tension, the character of freshness
in the mouth...
is the very essence of Riesling.”
Hugh Johnson, Foreword,
Riesling Renaissance (by Freddy Price)
Riesling – Germany‘s white star Riesling – Germany‘s white star
6 origin origin 7
Its evolution continued as a crossing (possibly, spontaneous) of Traminer
with an indigenous wild grape, which probably led to improved quality; later,
this grape crossed with Weisser Heunisch (in French, Gouais Blanc), which
lent the grape resistance, vitality and acidity. In short: Riesling has a mixed,
but feasible, lineage consisting of wild vines and two ancient varieties, all of
which have long been at home on the Rhine.
There are numerous “first” mentions of
the grape, yet the earliest documented
mention of Riesling is an invoice dated
13 March 1435, from Klaus Kleinfisch
origin to his lord, Count Johann IV of Katzen-
elnbogen, for the purchase of Riesling
Like that of most other traditional vines to be planted next to the castle he
grape varieties, the origin of Riesling is was building in Rüsselsheim, just east of
not clear-cut. For years, it was assumed Hochheim/Rheingau.
that Riesling was simply a descendant
of the ancient wild vine vitis vinifera Equally ambiguous is the origin of the
silvestris that thrived in riverside forests name itself. Supposedly it stems from the
along the Rhine. In 2006, the Austrian 15th century and could be a derivative
scientist Ferdinand Regner published of Russling (Rus: literally, soot; here, dark
results of his DNA analysis that refine wood) or Rissling (from durchrieseln:
the picture, i.e., the “original” Riesling coulure, or poor fruit set after blossoming). The word “Riesling” first appea-
grape was, frost-resistant, had small red in 1552 in a Latin text in an herbal by Hieronymus Bock, reprinted in
berries, and could have been selected German in 1577: “Rieslings grow on the Mosel, Rhine and in the district of
from wild grapes in the Rhine Valley. Worms.”
Riesling – Germany‘s white star Riesling – Germany‘s white star
8 origin origin 9
In the meantime, authentic Riesling
is known throughout the world pri-
marily as “white Riesling” or “Johan-
nisberg Riesling,” the latter due to
the important role played by Schloss
Johannisberg/Rheingau in recog-
nizing that Riesling benefited from
a “Spätlese,” or late harvest, as of the
1775 vintage. In the years that fol-
lowed, Johannisberg further refined
the concept by selectively harvesting
Riesling bunches and/or individual
grapes at varying stages of ripeness,
thereby setting the stage for the mag-
nificent “Auslese” range of wines that
helped establish German Riesling’s
world renown. There are many imita-
tors that have incorporated the word
“Riesling” into their name – Emerald
Riesling, Paarl Riesling, Laski Ries-
ling or Welschriesling, to name but
a few – yet they are neither synony-
mous with, nor related to, genuine
German Riesling.
Riesling – Germany‘s white star Riesling – Germany‘s white star
10 history history 11
By the turn of the 20th century, German Rieslings were enjoying a heyday
during which they graced the tables of kings, emperors, and czars. They were
on a par with the great white and red Pinots of Burgundy and red wines of
Bordeaux – even exceeding them in price on wine lists in leading restaurants
and wine shops around the world, and winning “Grand Prix” at interna-
tional competitions, such as the St. Louis World’s Fair in 1904, when German
Rieslings from the Rheingau (Schloss Vollrads and Langwerth von Simmern),
Pfalz (Bassermann-Jordan), and Mosel (Egon Müller) all took gold.
The prestige of Germany’s unique Riesling wines suffered in the aftermath
of the Great Depression and two World Wars. Early ripening, prolific new
history crossings supplanted Riesling. New cellar techniques fostered the mass pro-
duction of inexpensive, “technically sound” wines that could be tailored to
suit whatever taste profile was currently in demand.
Efforts to improve wine quality led
to widespread Riesling cultivation in
Germany throughout the 18th century,
particularly along the Rhine and Mosel.
In 1720, some 294,000 Riesling vines
were planted in the vineyards of the for-
mer Benedictine monastery in Johan-
nisberg/Rheingau; in 1744, the prince
bishop of Speyer/Pfalz decreed that “no
more Alben (Elbling), but rather, more
noble varietals, including Riesling,”
should be grown in his vineyards in
and around Deidesheim; and in 1787,
Clemens Wenzeslaus, prince bishop of
Trier/Mosel, issued a territorial order:
all inferior grape varieties were to be
replaced with Riesling.
Riesling – Germany‘s white star Riesling – Germany‘s white star
12 history history 13
Yet, the greatly diminished international ness in order to successfully compete in the global wine market. Their fresh,
image of German wine was ultimately a uncomplicated Rieslings with appealing fruity aromas offer millions of wine
wake-up call. Finally there was a renewed enthusiasts everyday enjoyment at reasonable prices.
focus on traditional grape varieties, par-
ticularly Riesling, as well as the preserva- Many of these volume producers have added premium-quality wines, avail-
tion and cultivation of top vineyard sites. able in limited quantities, to their portfolios in recent years. They are often
Yields were reduced. Producers large and prize winners in competitions, and generate positive media mentions that
small heeded the call to improve quality. have helped rebuild Germany’s reputation as a country of innovative, talented
They actively marketed their high-quality winemakers.
wines at home and abroad by partici-
pating in trade fairs, wine competitions,
and symposiums.
An unprecedented, ongoing series of re-
markable German wine vintages since the
late 1980s and the input of well-educated,
internationally oriented, and ambitious
younger growers collectively known as
“Generation Riesling” have added im-
petus to the upswing referred to as the
Riesling Renaissance. Once again, hand-
crafted German Rieslings that reflect vin-
tage fluctuations as well as varietal and
site-specific characteristics are very much
in vogue on a small scale. At the same time,
cooperatives and commercial wineries
also heightened their quality conscious-
Riesling – Germany‘s white star Riesling – Germany‘s white star
14 f o o d a ff i n i t i e s + l o n g e v i t y f o o d a ff i n i t i e s + l o n g e v i t y 15
“Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth
than lies. In other words: Riesling will never be
quite what you expect, which is exactly why you
should start acquainting yourself with this often
misunderstood, much loved white wine.The first
step to Riesling appreciation: Lose the notion that
food affinities + this is just a sweet wine.”
Paul Grieco, Sommelier, New York
longevity
Entry-level quality wines made from Prädikat wines, made from riper grapes, offer more depth and complexity.
ripe grapes – house or “bread-and- They are extremely versatile food companions, be it a delicate Riesling Kabi-
butter” wines (“Gutsweine”) – are the nett or a fuller-bodied Riesling Spätlese. A particularly interesting alternative
calling card of every producer. Since to very dry wines with a meal are traditional-style Spätlese and Auslese that
they convey the first impression of have mellowed during a few years of bottle aging. It provides the time needed
a producer’s talents, even these all- for ripe sweetness and Riesling’s vibrant acidity to completely harmonize; the
purpose, everyday wines should be wines become drier in taste and less austere.
well-made and reflect basic varietal and
regional characteristics. Most are meant
to be enjoyed in the freshness of youth.
Dryish Riesling Gutsweine are terrific
apéritifs to stimulate both appetite and
conversation. They go well with creamy
herb or vegetable soups; vegetarian
dishes; and grilled poultry, pork or fish.
Try off-dry or medium sweet styles with
aromatic, spicy-hot or sweet-and-sour
dishes of Asian, Cajun or Mexican ori-
gin; and foods prepared with salty
marinades, nori seaweed sheets, and fish
or soy sauces.
Riesling – Germany‘s white star Riesling – Germany‘s white star
16 f o o d a ff i n i t i e s + l o n g e v i t y f o o d a ff i n i t i e s + l o n g e v i t y 17
“To age well the wine has to be made meticu- “... Since most German wines are extremely versatile,
lously from carefully ripened examples of the the choices are very wide. For dim sum meals
great grape Riesling whose intense concentra- where fried and steamed dishes are served together,
tion of pure fruit flavour and exceptionally high a crisp dry or off-dry Riesling from Nahe, Rheingau
natural acidity packs a young wine with all or Mosel works extremely well. The high acidity
that it needs for years, decades and sometimes balances out any oily notes in fried dishes while it
centuries of slow but dramatic evolution.” accentuates the citrus and delicate flavours of
Jancis Robinson, Vintage Timecharts steamed dishes.”
Jeannie Cho Lee, MW, “Perfect Pairings –
German Wines and Asian Flavours”
The even more concentrated Riesling Auslese range (including Beeren- and
Trockenbeerenauslese) – rich, lusciously sweet wines, yet underpinned by
Riesling acidity – are superb with pâtés and blue-veined cheese of comparable
richness, and desserts. Mature versions are a venerable alternative to Cham-
pagne to toast a special occasion or celebrate an anniversary.
The rewards of aging Riesling merit the patience and investment: well-made
Prädikat wines offer a fascinating kaleidoscope of aromas and flavors that
evolve over time. When tasted every few months or so, they offer the pleasure
of discovery each time a bottle is opened.
If stored horizontally (to keep the cork wet) in a location free of odors, vibra-
tions, and bright sunlight, which offers a fairly constant temperature (ideal:
10-15°C/50-59°F; upper limit: 21°C/70°F), Rieslings can be stored for many
years. Half bottles mature more quickly. Rough guidelines:
QbA and Kabinett: up to 5 years
Spätlese: 3 to 10 years
Auslese: at least a decade
BA, Eiswein, TBA: the finest can remain fresh for decades
Riesling – Germany‘s white star Riesling – Germany‘s white star
18 read on... read on... 19
rieslingrules.com/the_book/
Pacific Rim Winery’s collection of facts, figures and fun information about
Riesling. Jancis Robinson comments: “Pacific Rim, the Washington state
Riesling specialist, has launched (2008) a truly charming...beautifully
designed, very simple, 40-page booklet...”
drinkriesling.com
Official website of the International Riesling Foundation, “a private, not-for-
profit association created to increase awareness, understanding, and apprecia-
tion of Riesling wines produced throughout the world.”
read on... germanwines.de • generation-riesling.de/english/
Official website of the German Wine Institute/Mainz, and the concept it ini-
Best White Wine on Earth – The tiated in order to provide younger members of the wine scene with a national
Riesling Story, By Stuart Pigott and international platform.
Stewart, Tabori and Chang
ISBN - 10: 161 769 1100
ISBN - 13: 978 - 161 769 1102
Riesling, by Christina Fischer
and Ingo Swoboda
2007 Gräfe und Unzer Verlag GmbH/
Hallwag
ISBN: 978-3-8338-0986-6
Riesling Renaissance,
by Freddy Price
2004 Mitchell Beazley/
Octopus Publishing Group Ltd
ISBN: 1-84000-777-X
Riesling – Germany‘s white star Riesling – Germany‘s white star
Deutsches Weininstitut
[email protected]www.deutscheweine.de
www.germanwines.de
