22/11/2018 Ultimate Exposure Computer

 
THE ULTIMATE EXPOSURE COMPUTER
A GUIDE FOR NATURE PHOTOGRAPHERS
©1995-2017 Fred Parker

Introduction
Why Your Light Meter Lies To You
Exposure Value, Film Speed, Shutter Speed and f/stops -- What Are They?
How To Use The Ultimate Exposure Computer / Throw Away Your Light Meter!
A Typical Day In The Life Of A Nature Photographer
Planning Ahead
Using The Ultimate Exposure Computer Wisely
The Final Step
Where on Earth Are You?
Exposure Value Chart
Exposure Factor Relationship Chart
Useful Photographic Exposure Guidelines
Handling Tricky Lighting Situations
EV, Footcandles and LUX (For The Truly Dedicated)

INTRODUCTION
Imagine an exposure computer so advanced that it uses your eyes as a sensor. The processing unit is as powerful as
your brain. The computer is accurate over a light range from reflected starlight through the light produced in a
hydrogen fusion reaction. This computer weighs nothing and operates without batteries. It comes with instructions to
allow you to implant the capabilities of the computer directly into your own memory so you can accurately judge a
correct exposure by simply looking at the type of light that the subject is in. You are using this computer right now!

Everything I've said above is true. However, I'm sure you've noticed that the only thing before your eyes is a World
Wide Web page. An entire photographic industry has been built by convincing consumers that the subject of
photographic exposure is so arcane, difficult and impossible to understand, that it is best left up to technology. This, of
course, allows companies to sell billions of dollars worth of equipment to figure it all out for you.

The fact is that the concept of photographic exposure is extremely simple. It can be mastered by anyone who can
multiply or divide by two. Everything you need to know is contained on these few Web pages.

Knowledge of photographic exposure is essential to controlling the creative side of the photographic process. This
knowledge increases the chance that the photograph that comes back from the lab is the one you envisioned when
you pushed the shutter release. Your camera or light meter can not make creative decisions for you. If you want to
control the creative side of photography, you need to understand the interrelationship of Exposure Value, film speed,
aperture and shutter speed. You must have this understanding even though you own the most sophisticated
equipment available. I have watched photographers (amateur and professional) struggle with this subject for a
number of years, confused by the misinformation that abounds in the photographic press. I decided to publish this
document to clarify, simplify and demystify the issue.

But first, a word about copyright. This document is copyrighted. In order to keep the cost down, it has been published
in a form that would be easy to copy. Copyright law strictly forbids copying this document. You may print a copy or two
of the Ultimate Exposure Computer to keep in your camera bag for personal use. In fact, I would encourage it. All I
ask is that you send me an e-mail (fred at fredparker dot com) to let me know that you've downloaded this document.
If you get a chance, drop me another e-mail after you've worked with it and let me know if you have any suggestions.
However, please do NOT make copies for your friends, students or any other person. Originals are inexpensive and
easy to obtain. If you have a related site (commercial or otherwise) please hyperlink to this site for access to this
document. If you download all or part of this document and post it directly to your site, it will be assumed that you
have decided to purchase redistribution rights, which START at $3500. Thanks!

WHY YOUR LIGHT METER LIES TO YOU

Light meters can be less accurate than you might imagine. Their response to various colors of light may not match
that of your film. Their response in low light and high light conditions may not match response at the mid-range of
light. But the worst characteristic, for practical purposes, is that all reflected light meters make one basic
(erroneous) assumption. They are calibrated to render an exposure that will make the subject look like a
middle tone in the resulting photograph.

How do you compensate for the fact that your meter is lying? You have to lie to your meter. If you are photographing a
light toned subject, such as snow or sand in bright light, you must convince your meter that it is looking at something
even lighter than your subject, so that the meter's attempt to make it a middle tone will result in the right tone. The
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same is true for dark objects. You must tell your meter that the object is darker than it really is so that the meter's
compensation will register the correct tone in the photograph.

You can tell this white (or black) lie to your meter in a couple of ways. You can meter a middle-toned area in the same
light as your subject and manually set your camera accordingly. You can lie to the camera outright by telling it that it is
using film of an ISO rating different from what is actually in the camera. For instance, if you are using ISO 100 film
and are photographing a light subject, you would tell the meter that you have ISO 50 film. If you are photographing a
dark object, tell your meter that you have ISO 200 film in the camera. This method works well for cameras in
automatic exposure modes. Be careful to tell your camera the truth if you move to a middle toned subject.

Another way to get the right exposure from a lying meter is to politely ignore it. Switch from automatic to manual
exposure (a good idea anyway) and simply move to the next larger aperture or the next slower shutter speed (for a
light object) or to the next smaller aperture or faster shutter speed (for a dark object).

So it goes. Your meter deceives you, so you deceive it. But what kind of relationship is this? The Ultimate Exposure
Computer does not make erroneous assumptions, because you tell it what type of light your subject is in. As
long as you tell it the truth, it will not lie to you. Definitely a better relationship.

There is a chance that the preceding section may have confused you. If that is true, don't worry about it. The next
section defines Exposure Value, film speed, shutter speed and aperture (f/stop) and describes the interrelationship
among these factors. After you've read the next section, revisit this section again, because the concept is important.

EXPOSURE VALUE, FILM SPEED, SHUTTER SPEED AND f/stops -- What Are
They?
Each of these four factors is represented by a series of numbers. Your camera may have only a portion of each series
indicated.

Exposure Value:
In most light meters, photons of light that are reflected from your subject put pressure on a photo-sensitive receptor in
your light meter and are converted into electricity (this is why some meters do not require batteries). The greater the
number of photons, the greater the electricity that is produced. Internationally accepted standards specify exactly how
much light pressure equals a certain EV number. This value is measured by the following number series (for ISO 100
film):

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23

Easy! However, even though this appears to be a linear progression, each number represents twice as much light as
the numbers increase. This provides an easily memorized scale to clarify the concept of "absolute value of the
amount of light falling on a subject". This term is related to illuminance, footcandles and lumens. But it doesn't matter.
If you are using a light meter this number is irrelevant, and you can ignore it. You may never see these numbers,
because the meter uses them internally to calculate a set of combinations of shutter speeds and apertures. However,
knowledge of Exposure Value can significantly enhance your ability as a photographer. The Ultimate Exposure
Computer gives you the knowledge to take control of your photographs. See the section "Throw Away Your Light
Meter!" for details.

In order to be useful, this Exposure Value number must be converted into an f/stop and shutter speed
combination that will provide the proper exposure for the film speed you have chosen. The relationship
between these four elements is represented in the Ultimate Exposure Computer.

Film Speed:

Film speed is a number that indicates the sensitivity of film to light. Film sensitivity is measured by a set of standards
established by the American Standards Association (ASA) or the International Standards Organization (ISO). For all
practical purposes, the ASA and ISO numbers are interchangeable. In general, films with a higher sensitivity
(larger number) have coarser grain and do not register detail as well as films with lower sensitivity (lower
number). The number series for film speed is:

25, 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200

Pretty straight forward! Moving to the right, each number is twice the preceding number, and represents twice the
sensitivity to light as the preceding number. There may be some intermediate steps (such as 64 or 125) on your dial.
Set the light meter or camera for the same number that is on the film. Your camera may do this automatically.

This leaves only two things to adjust to achieve the correct exposure while making a photograph; shutter
speed and aperture (f-stops). Shutter speed and aperture are very important to the creative photographic
process.

Shutter Speed:

Shutter speed indicates how long the camera shutter remains open to let light onto the film. The number series for
shutter speed is:

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15, 8, 4, 2, 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500, 1000, 2000, 4000, 8000

This looks more complicated, but it's actually straightforward. These numbers are whole seconds or fractions of
seconds. They aren't expressed on your shutter speed dial as fractions to save space, so they should read as below:

15, 8, 4, 2, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000, 1/8000

Again, each number moving to the right is half the value of the preceding number, and represents half as much light
as the preceding number.

There is an important rule regarding shutter speeds:

If your shutter speed is slower than the reciprocal of the focal length of your
lens, you must use a tripod.
For example, if you are using a 200 mm lens, your shutter speed must exceed 1/200 second (I.E. 1/250 or faster). If
not, you should use a tripod. If your subject is moving, double this shutter speed. If you are moving (such as in a boat
or plane) triple the speed. If you are doing macro work (.25 magnification or greater), always use a tripod. If you're
using a format larger than 35mm, use a tripod. To be safe, weld your camera to the tripod. If you are a serious nature
photographer you will always use a tripod, anyway. A tripod will allow you to make photographs with slower film
speeds. Slower film speeds equate to better detail and sharpness in your photographs. More important, using a tripod
makes you slow down and allows you to examine your composition more carefully. Modern electronic cameras may
lack certain features of the older, mechanical cameras (such as a button that allows you to see the depth of field that
will be present in your photograph), but every camera has a tripod socket. You'll make better photographs if you use
it.

Aperture (f-stops):

Aperture refers to the size of the opening inside the lens that the light must go through to reach the film. Aperture is
measured in f/stops as indicated in the series below:

1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 45

This looks tougher, but the solution is the same as for the shutter speeds. These are actually fractions. They should
read as follows:

1/1, 1/1.4, 1/2, 1/2.8, 1/4, 1/5.6, 1/8, 1/11, 1/16, 1/22, 1/32, 1/45

Like the shutter speed series, each progression represents half as much light (moving to the right) as the preceding
number. But why do the numbers look so odd? I recommend that you ignore it, because it doesn't matter anyway.
Just accept that each progression represents half as much light as the preceding number.

If you are curious as to how we got to such a seemingly illogical progression of numbers, read the following three
paragraphs. If you aren't curious, you can safely skip them.

The numbers represent the ratio of the focal length of the lens to the diameter of the lens diaphragm opening. That's
why it's called an f(ocal)/number. The designation "f/2" means that the diameter of the aperture is 1/2 the focal length
of the lens. The designation f/32 means that the diameter of the aperture is 1/32 the focal length of the lens. f/2 on a
100mm lens means that the diameter of the diaphragm opening is 100/2, or 50mm. Unfortunately, the amount of light
reaching the film is dependent on the SURFACE AREA of the opening NOT the DIAMETER. As you no doubt learned
in high school, the method of calculating the surface area of a circle is Pi times the radius, squared (Pi is
approximately 3.14; the radius is half the diameter, squared means that the number is multiplied by itself). Therefore,
in our example, the surface area of the opening would be 3.14X25X25, or approximately 2000 sq. mm.

Now, let's look at the next f/stop, which is f/2.8. 100/2.8=35.7mm. The surface area would be 3.14X17.85X17.85. If
you multiply it out, you will see that the surface area is now approximately 1000 sq. mm, or HALF the surface area of
f/2.Therefore, each succeeding smaller aperture lets in half as much light as the previous f/stop.

The reason we use the ratios instead of the actual surface area of the diaphragm opening is that the actual surface
area would be quite different between lenses of different focal lengths. Photographers would have to memorize a
series of numbers for each focal length lens they owned. Think about what you'd have to do with a zoom lens! Ratios
allow us to use the same number series for all of our lenses. f/2 on a 100mm lens lets in exactly the same amount of
light as f/2 on a 500mm lens. Trust me, f/numbers are the best way to do this. I would still recommend that you simply
accept that each successive f/stop represents a doubling (or halving) of light. However, since you've read this far, I'll
give you a hint about how to memorize the f/number series. The good news is that you only have to remember two
numbers; 1 and 1.4. Double each one alternately and you will have two series:

1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32 and 1.4, 2.8, 5.6, 11, 22

So, combining the two sequences in numerical order gives the full sequence: 

1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32

What you need to remember is that, within each factor, as you move from one
number to the next, the amount of light is either doubled or halved. Some
cameras may include numbers between the numbers mentioned above. Those
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numbers represent half or third stops. For the purpose of what you are
learning here, ignore the in-between numbers.

HOW TO USE THE ULTIMATE EXPOSURE COMPUTER: THROW AWAY YOUR

LIGHT METER!
Well..... maybe not. But you could if you wanted to. The purpose of this section is to show you how Exposure Value,
Film Speed, Aperture and Shutter Speed are interrelated, and why you don't need a light meter to know the proper
exposure.

STEP ONE: PUT YOUR CAMERA ON MANUAL

Automatic cameras are designed to give an average photographer a better chance of getting properly exposed
pictures while shooting average subjects in average light, without a tripod to steady the image. These cameras work
well for family pictures and many urban subjects. Automatic focus and exposure (especially TTL flash) are extremely
useful for some specialized types of photography, such as sports or photojournalism.

Nature photography is a different matter. Many of your subjects will not have "average" tonality. Most of your subjects
will not be located in "average" light. Many times your subject will not be in the center of the frame (where an
automatic camera takes its light readings). However, the most important reasons for putting your camera on manual
while photographing natural subjects are:

1) There are times when you will want to stop motion, such as a flower waving in the breeze. Other times you
may want to exaggerate the effect of motion, such as when photographing flowing water. Decisions about
these matters address APPARENT SUBJECT MOTION. This is controlled by the shutter speed. Faster shutter
speeds stop action better than slower speeds (1/1000 second will stop most motion, while 1/8 second will
blur even slow moving subjects).

2) Sometimes you will want everything in focus, such as a foreground flower AND a distant mountain.
Sometimes you will want the flower to be in focus while keeping a busy background softly out of focus.
When you make this type of decision, you are considering DEPTH OF FIELD (the distance in front and behind
of the subject that is acceptably in focus). The aperture (f/stop) controls the depth of the image that is
acceptably in focus (f/32 keeps more of the subject in focus than f/2).

You must make these aesthetic choices. The camera has no way of knowing what you want the photograph to look
like. Remember that the camera's automation is designed to make technical decisions based on average subjects in
average light. It is not designed to make aesthetic choices regarding natural subjects (which are rarely "average").

Because of these factors, the same camera that will give you dozens of perfect photographs of your children opening
birthday presents will churn out dozens of badly exposed nature photographs that look nothing like what you
experienced in the field. The only way for you to get good results in nature photography is for YOU to make the
choices.

Get your camera. Purchase two sets of batteries and install one set in the camera. Do this even if you changed
batteries last month. Keep the spare set with the camera, always. Keep a copy of the Ultimate Exposure Computer
with the camera and the batteries.

Find your instruction manual. Now comes the hardest part of the entire process (unless you've lost the manual). You
must find out how to set your camera body to its "manual" setting. I can't help you here. Good luck and
congratulations! You've just taken the first step toward becoming a serious nature photographer!

STEP TWO: A TOUR AROUND THE ULTIMATE EXPOSURE COMPUTER

CHART A: Take a look at Exposure Value Chart A. The left column of the chart contains the Exposure Value (EV)
numbers. The right column of the chart contains some lighting situations that equate to EV numbers. The chart
ranges from EV -6 to EV 23. This represents a range of light from below reflected starlight to the brightest light in the
Solar System.

Notice that most daylit subjects fall within a narrow range from EV 11 to EV 15. It is a good idea to memorize the
characteristics of these daylight Exposure Value factors. Pick a favorite lighting situation, note the EV and turn the
Ultimate Exposure Computer over to Chart B.

CHART B: Exposure Factor Relationship Chart B shows how Exposure Value, film speed, aperture and shutter speed
are related.

On the left side of this chart, along the top row, are the ISO/ASA film speed numbers. Pick the film speed you use
most often. Starting with that film speed, move down the column until you reach the EV number that you chose from
Chart A. Now move to the right along the row until you cross the double line. To the right of the double line is a row of
shutter speeds. As you will recall, a fast shutter speed stops motion, while a slow shutter speed enhances the effect
of motion. Choose an appropriate shutter speed for your subject. Now, move straight up the column to the top row to
find the aperture (f/stop) for use with the shutter speed. Enter your chosen shutter speed on your camera and set
your lens to your chosen f/stop. It's that easy!

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Example 1 -- A Typical Day In The Life of a Nature Photographer

Suppose you are in the field photographing with ISO 100 film, and the battery in your camera just failed. You
can't take any light readings, and you only have one mechanical shutter speed (1/125 second). This situation
is extremely unfortunate, since you just stumbled onto an extremely rare species of flowering plant that
blooms for one hour every hundred years. It's in full bloom. The sky has started to cloud over and things
look bleak. Have no fear! Your Ultimate Exposure Computer will save the day! You already know from Chart A
that subjects under heavy cloud cover are at EV 12.

Look on the left-hand side of Chart B. Locate ISO 100 film along the top row. Look down the column until you
find EV 12. Look along the row to the right of EV 12 (across the double line) until you find the shutter speed
you are looking for (your mechanical 1/125 second). Move straight up the column and find that the aperture
of your lens should be set to f/5.6. Easy! No light meter required!

But wait! Suppose the f/stop you landed on isn't on your lens. Or perhaps the f/stop you landed on offers too much or
too little depth of field (the distance in front and behind of the subject that is acceptably in focus). In that case, move
to an appropriate f/stop along the top row to achieve your desired result. Then move down the column to the row
represented by your original choice of film speed and EV number. At that intersection you will find the appropriate
shutter speed for the desired aperture.

Perhaps this exercise indicates a very slow shutter speed that cannot be hand held. That means one of two things.
You must put the camera on a tripod (where it should have been to begin with), or you need to determine the proper
film speed to use for your photographic situation.

Example 2 -- Planning Ahead

The Ultimate Exposure Computer is useful for several photographic tasks, such as planning a shooting
session. For instance, you may know that you are going to be shooting scenics of a field of flowers with
mountains behind. It will be a sunny day (EV 15), but the wind will be gusting to twenty miles per hour. You
need a small aperture to get the greatest depth of field (the distance in front and behind of the subject that is
acceptably in focus), but you will also need a fast shutter speed to stop the motion of the flowers in the wind.
What ISO film speed will you need to do the trick?

Go to the upper right of the Table B. Find f/22 aperture for maximum depth of field. Go down the column until
you reach a shutter speed fast enough to handle the flowers in the wind (1/125 second). Move to the left
along the row (across the double line) until you find the correct Exposure Value (15). From there, move up the
column and find that ISO 200 speed film will solve your problem.

STEP THREE: USE THE ULTIMATE EXPOSURE COMPUTER WISELY

The Ultimate Exposure Computer is designed for use in existing light. If you need to use flash, or you are taking
bellows shots, by all means use a camera with a through-the-lens meter. When using flash, use the manufacturer's
dedicated flash unit that allows through the lens control of the flash. Those situations are excellent reasons to use the
meter in your camera. Some of the lighting situations described in Chart A occur outdoors during daylight. In these
cases it is assumed that the sun is at an elevation greater than forty-five degrees. If the sun's elevation is less than
forty-five degrees, you can use the next lower Exposure Value, although you'll probably like the results of using the
chart without modification. For some films, exposures involving shutter speeds in excess of several seconds may
require additional exposure because the film's sensitivity decreases with continued exposure to light for long periods
(this is called "reciprocity failure"). Light meters do not correct for this phenomenon, because it varies according to the
type of film. Consult the manufacturers' specifications for details. There are some tricky exposures where you can
improperly expose the film whether you are using a camera meter or the Ultimate Exposure Computer. Many of these
situations are addressed in "What to do in Tricky Light Situations" in Appendix A.

THE FINAL STEP: THROW AWAY THE ULTIMATE EXPOSURE COMPUTER!

The Ultimate Exposure Computer is easy to use and extremely accurate. But there is an easier way. Why not
memorize the whole thing? It's a lot easier than you may think. This section will show you how.

There is a rule called the "Sunny f/16 Rule". It says:

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On a bright, sunny day, the correct exposure for any subject is f/16 at the
shutter speed nearest to the reciprocal of the film speed.
For example, if you are using ASA/ISO 100 film, the correct exposure would be 1/100 second (or rather the closest
available shutter speed - 1/125 second) at f/16. The next three paragraphs address this example.

We know that a bright, sunny day equals EV 15. The "Sunny f/16" rule gives us an anchor point to use in mentally
calculating the entire contents of Chart B, since it contains all four elements of exposure: Exposure Value (EV 15),
film speed (ISO 100), aperture (f/16) and shutter speed (1/125).

From that anchor point, it is easy to calculate any other set of correct exposures. We know that each step up or down
in one variable represents a doubling or halving of the amount of light required to make a correct exposure. For
example, an overcast day would halve the light falling on the subject (EV 14). If the light reaching the film is cut in
half, ONE other variable needs to be changed to increase (double) the amount of light. In this case the shutter speed
could be reduced to 1/60 second OR the aperture could be increased to f/11 OR the film speed could be increased to
ISO 200. Any ONE of these corrections would provide the correct amount of light. Make the correction that best suits
your photographic purpose (decreased depth of field -- the distance in front and behind of the subject that is
acceptably in focus -- or enhanced apparent subject motion).

In the same sense, a change in any of the variables can be offset by a reciprocal change in any other variable. For
example, you may need a faster shutter speed to stop some action. If you choose 1/500 second, the light will have
been reduced by two steps (cut in half from 1/125 to 1/250 and cut it in half again from 1/250 to 1/500). You could
compensate for this by opening up the aperture two steps (from f/16 to f/11 will double the light and f/11 to f/8 will
double it again). You could make the same correction by increasing the film speed by two steps (from ISO 100 to ISO
200 doubles the light and from ISO 200 to ISO 400 doubles it again). Or, you could increase the aperture to f/11 AND
increase the film speed to ISO 200. Again, make the adjustment that best suits your purpose.

Now, let me say that the "sunny f/16" rule is one of the most misunderstood rules in photography. I have heard very
competent professional photographers say that the rule is based on reflected light. Nonsense! The rule is based on
the light falling on the subject (incident light) not the light reflected from the subject. The rule gives precisely the same
measurement that you would get from an incident meter or a reflected meter using a perfect gray card. If your subject
is very light or dark, you will need to adjust exposure to bring it within the five stop range of transparency film. But you
would also have to make an adjustment from a reflected reading in the same circumstance. The difference is that an
incident light measurement is a consistent anchor from which to adjust. A reflected measurement is much more
subjective and prone to error. I have also heard that the "sunny f/16" rule doesn't work for backlit or sidelit subjects.
This is also false. Just open up a half stop, and make a series of exposures in half stop increments one and a half
stop above and below the correct exposure. This is called "bracketing" and it is an important concept. You should
always bracket in difficult situations. Anyone who says differently is misleading you. See the section on "Difficult
Exposures" for guidelines.

The "sunny f/16" anchor point, combined with your knowledge that each change of one step in a factor
doubles or halves the exposure, makes it easy to select a correct exposure for any photographic situation
you may be confronted with.

Practice this technique with the Ultimate Exposure Computer in hand. Look at (or imagine) a photographic situation
and try to mentally figure out the correct exposure using the "Sunny f/16" anchor point and any adjustments you feel
are necessary. For the purpose of this exercise, it is best to concentrate on EV 11 through 16 (where most of your
outdoor photography will occur). As you perfect your accuracy in this range, you can move on to more exotic lighting
situations. Write down the factors (Exposure Value, film speed, aperture and shutter speed) that you believe will make
the best exposure. Consult the Ultimate Exposure Computer to assess the accuracy of the calculations you made
mentally.

With a little effort you will soon be achieving close to 100% accuracy, without the use of a light meter or any other
exposure aid. The more you practice with the Ultimate Exposure Computer, the sooner you will be able to simply look
at a lighting situation and immediately know the correct exposure for the job.

Once you have mastered this technique, you can use it to judge the accuracy of the light meter in your camera (or
anyone else's). You will be able to amuse and edify your photographic friends by accurately stating the correct
exposure in any situation before your friends can take a reading with their meter!

When you reach that point, the real Ultimate Exposure Computer will be

YOU!
WHERE ON EARTH ARE YOU?

I get e-mail from all over. Photographers use this document on every continent. Even Antarctica. People taking
photographs far to the north or south of my sunny San Diego, California (USA) location (32d N) have asked me to
make charts adapted to extreme (from my perspective) latitudes. Here's why: If you live anywhere between the
equator and about 50 degrees north or south, the charts and tables in the Ultimate Exposure Computer should work
fine for you (remember to bracket). Just move on and don't read the next few paragraphs. If you live further north or
south, it should work for you in summer. But things aren't so simple if you live toward the poles. Light from the sun is
diminished by traveling farther through the atmosphere or blocked by the curvature of Earth. Look at it this way: near
a solstice, natural light at mid-day can range continuously from "Sunny f/16" at the equator to near dark at one of the

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poles. So you have the variables of latitude and season and time of day to consider. There are other variables such
as altitude and snow cover (partially counteracting the effect of latitude and season).

"So," you say, "You've taken me this far and it turns out this won't work for me?"   I say, the Ultimate Exposure
Computer will NOT let you down. "Well then," you say, "Are you going to give me some complicated, hashed-up chart
that tries to fit in the five variables you talked about?"  Well... Actually I DID try to do this. What a mess! I'm striving for
simplicity here, not trying to model the light falling on every square inch of Earth! Fortunately, the solution is simple,
because I know something about you that you've never admitted to me. You DIDN'T throw away your light meter, did
you!!? Hah! I knew it!  Good! Read on!

You can easily calibrate the Ultimate Exposure Computer to fit your exact location. Go outside and take a meter
reading (preferably incident or reflected from a standard gray card). Use whatever light is available, but it is best if it's
full sun on a bright day (Sunny f/16). Take a few readings and average them. How many stops difference between
your reading and the "Exposure Value Chart"?

Print out two copies of the "Exposure Value Chart" (below). Using a sharp implement (your choice) cut one chart
apart, separating the "EV" section from the "Type of Lighting Situation" section. If, for example, your metered reading
was two stops below "Sunny f/16" you would slip the "EV" section down two rows. Tape it in place. You now have a
chart customized to your latitude, season, time of day, altitude and any other variable you can think of (remember to
bracket). You'll need to repeat this exercise as the seasons and conditions change. This is only necessary for sunlit
subjects. Other subjects in the chart will work using the copy you didn't deface. There are limitations. Here's just one
example: If you're at McMurdo Station on June 21, you'll need to find another way to calculate exposure. Drop me an
e-mail and tell me how you make photographs. For most of you intrepid poleward photographers. enjoy!

Exposure Value Chart

EV TYPE OF LIGHTING SITUATION
-6 Night, away from city lights, subject under starlight only.
-5 Night, away from city lights, subject under crescent moon.
Night, away from city lights, subject under half moon. Meteors (during showers,
-4
with time exposure).
-3 Night, away from city lights, subject under full moon.
-2 Night, away from city lights, snowscape under full moon.
-1 Subjects lit by dim ambient artificial light.
0 Subjects lit by dim ambient artificial light.
1 Distant view of lighted skyline.
2 Lightning (with time exposure). Total eclipse of moon.
3 Fireworks (with time exposure).
Candle lit close-ups. Christmas lights, floodlit buildings, fountains, and
4
monuments. Subjects under bright street lamps.
Night home interiors, average light. School or church auditoriums. Subjects lit by
5
campfires or bonfires.
6 Brightly lit home interiors at night. Fairs, amusement parks.
Bottom of rainforest canopy. Brightly lighted nighttime streets. Indoor sports.
7
Stage shows, circuses.
Las Vegas or Times Square at night. Store windows. Campfires, bonfires, burning
8 buildings. Ice shows, football, baseball etc. at night. Interiors with bright florescent
lights.
Landscapes, city skylines 10 minutes after sunset. Neon lights, spotlighted
9
subjects.
10 Landscapes and skylines immediately after sunset. Crescent moon (long lens).
11 Sunsets. Subjects in deep shade.
12 Half moon (long lens). Subject in open shade or heavy overcast.
13 Gibbous moon (long lens). Subjects in cloudy-bright light (no shadows).
14 Full moon (long lens). Subjects in weak, hazy sun.
15 Subjects in bright or hazy sun (Sunny f/16 rule).
16 Subjects in bright daylight on sand or snow.
17 Rarely encountered in nature. Some man made lighting.
18 Rarely encountered in nature. Some man made lighting.
19 Rarely encountered in nature. Some man made lighting.
20 Rarely encountered in nature. Some man made lighting.
21 Rarely encountered in nature. Some man made lighting.
22 Extremely bright. Rarely encountered in nature.
23 Extremely bright. Rarely encountered in nature.
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23 Extremely bright. Rarely encountered in nature.

THE ULTIMATE EXPOSURE COMPUTER

EXPOSURE VALUE

Exposure Factor Relationship Chart B 

FILM SPEED
APERTURE OF
        (ISO/ASA                 
LENS (f/STOP)
NUMBER)
ISO ISO ISO ISO ISO ISO ISO ISO
  25 50 100 200 400 800 1600 3200   f/1.4 f/2.0 f/2.8 f/4 f/5.6 f/8 f/11 f/16 f/22 f/32  
  1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6   4 sec 8 sec 15 sec 30 sec 1 min 2 min 4 min 8 min 16 min 32 min  
  2 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5   2 sec 4 sec 8 sec 15 sec 30 sec 1 min 2 min 4 min 8 min 16 min  
  3 2 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4   1 sec 2 sec 4 sec 8 sec 15 sec 30 sec 1 min 2 min 4 min 8 min  
  4 3 2 1 0 -1 -2 -3   1/2 sec 1 sec 2 sec 4 sec 8 sec 15 sec 30 sec 1 min 2 min 4 min  
  5 4 3 2 1 0 -1 -2   1/4 sec 1/2 sec 1 sec 2 sec 4 sec 8 sec 15 sec 30 sec 1 min 2 min  
E 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 -1   1/8 sec 1/4 sec 1/2 sec 1 sec 2 sec 4 sec 8 sec 15 sec 30 sec 1 min S

V 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0   1/15 sec 1/8 sec 1/4 sec 1/2 sec 1 sec 2 sec 4 sec 8 sec 15 sec 30 sec H

  8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1   1/30 sec 1/15 sec 1/8 sec 1/4 sec 1/2 sec 1 sec 2 sec 4 sec 8 sec 15 sec U

N 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2   1/60 sec 1/30 sec 1/15 sec 1/8 sec 1/4 sec 1/2 sec 1 sec 2 sec 4 sec 8 sec T

U 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3   1/125 sec 1/60 sec 1/30 sec 1/15 sec 1/8 sec 1/4 sec 1/2 sec 1 sec 2 sec 4 sec T

1/125 1/15 1/2

M 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4   1/250 sec
sec
1/60 sec 1/30 sec
sec
1/8 sec 1/4 sec
sec
1 sec 2 sec E

1/250 1/125 1/30 1/15 1/4 1/2

B 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5   1/500 sec
sec sec
1/60 sec
sec sec
1/8 sec
sec sec
1 sec R

1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60 1/30 1/8 1/4 1/2

E 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6   sec sec sec sec sec sec
1/15 sec
sec sec sec  
1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60 1/15 1/8 1/4
R 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7   sec sec sec sec sec sec
1/30 sec
sec sec sec
S

1/4000 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/30 1/15 1/8

S 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8   sec sec sec sec sec sec
1/60 sec
sec sec sec
P

1/8000 1/4000 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/60 1/30 1/15

  16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9   sec sec sec sec sec sec
1/125 sec
sec sec sec
E

1/15000 1/8000 1/4000 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/125 1/60 1/30

  17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10   sec sec sec sec sec sec
1/250 sec
sec sec sec
E

1/30000 1/15000 1/8000 1/4000 1/2000 1/1000 1/250 1/125 1/60

  18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11   sec sec sec sec sec sec
1/500 sec
sec sec sec
D

1/60000 1/30000 1/15000 1/8000 1/4000 1/2000 1/500 1/250 1/125

  19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12   sec sec sec sec sec sec
1/1000 sec
sec sec sec
S

1/125000 1/60000 1/30000 1/15000 1/8000 1/4000 1/2000 sec 1/1000 1/500 1/250
  20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13   sec sec sec sec sec sec sec sec sec  
1/250000 1/125000 1/60000 1/30000 1/15000 1/8000 1/2000 1/1000 1/500
  21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14   sec sec sec sec sec sec
1/4000 sec
sec sec sec  
1/500000 1/250000 1/125000 1/60000 1/30000 1/15000 1/4000 1/2000 1/1000
  22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15   sec sec sec sec sec sec
1/8000 sec
sec sec sec  
1/1000000 1/500000 1/250000 1/125000 1/60000 1/30000 1/15000sec 1/8000 1/4000 1/2000
  23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16   sec sec sec sec sec sec sec sec sec  

THE ULTIMATE EXPOSURE COMPUTER

EXPOSURE FACTOR RELATIONSHIP CHART B ©1995-2013 Fred Parker

Some Useful Photographic Guidelines

Sunny f/16 Anchor Point: On a bright day (EV 15) the correct exposure for any subject is f/16 at a shutter speed nearest to the reciprocal of the film
speed (I.E. ISO 100 film = 1/125).

Doubling Rule: Within any exposure factor (Exposure Value, film speed, aperture, shutter speed) each step is double (or half of) the preceding step.

Tripod Rule: Use one for every photograph. If your shutter speed is slower than the reciprocal of the focal length of your lens (I.E.< 1/200 sec. with a
200 mm lens), use a tripod. If your subject is moving, double this shutter speed. If you are moving (such as in a boat or plane) triple the speed. If you are
doing macro work (.25 magnification or greater), always use a tripod. If you're using a format larger than 35mm, use a tripod. To be safe, weld your
camera to the tripod. 

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Film Speed: As you increase film speed, problems with grain and sharpness will increase.

Apparent Subject Motion: Increasing shutter speed will reduce apparent subject motion. Decreasing shutter speed will increase apparent subject
motion.

Depth of Field (the distance in front and behind of the subject that is acceptably in focus): Increasing aperture (lower f/stop #) will decrease depth
of field. Decreasing aperture (higher f/stop #) will increase depth of field.

APPENDIX "A": WHAT TO DO IN TRICKY LIGHT SITUATIONS

Front Lighting: Follow directions given in this document.

Side Lighting: Expose for front lighting, exactly as described herein. Bracket in half stop increments to one and a
half stops over exposure. No need to bracket on the underexposure side. Alternatively, use a reflecting surface to
bounce more light into the shadows. Make decisions based on the tonality of the subject. With a light subject your first
exposure should be your best. With a darker subject your last exposure should be correct.

Back Lighting: Where possible, shoot subject in front of a dark background. Use EV 12 as your starting point (there
are three stops difference between sun and shade) and bracket in half stop increments one and a half stops to the
underexposure side (no need to bracket to the over exposure side -- EV12 takes care of it for you). If you must shoot
into a light background, your best bet is to shoot a silhouette. Examples are backlit fog on a lake with fishermen in
boats in the shot. In this case, start with EV 15 and bracket in half stop increments to three stops on the under
exposure side. Your backlit photography will be better if you use a long lens (with an appropriate lens shade!). Make
sure your lens is scrupulously clean. If you are shooting people, use a warming filter (such as 81B), and adjust
exposure by increasing exposure by 1/2 to one stop.

The Ultimate Backlight -- Sunrises & Sunsets: When the sun is in your shot, go for silhouettes. Begin with EV 15
and bracket in full stops to four stops under.

Night Shots: Don't shoot them at night, shoot at dusk. Look through your camera with the aperture fully stopped
down. This has the effect of taking color out of the scene and allowing you to judge tonality more accurately. When
your subject and the sky seem to be the same shade of gray, open up the lens and make your exposure. With a
middle tone subject, this will usually take place 30-45 minutes after sundown. Use EV9 as a basis for exposure.
Bracket in half stop increments to two stops over and two stops under. You will like at least half of the shots.

Shoot the Moon With a Long Lens: Use EV14. Bracket in half stop increments to one stop over and one stop under.

Shooting Scenics in Woods or Where There Are A Lot of Shadows: Shoot under overcast (EV12 or 13)
situations.

Fast Moving Subjects -- Sports, Etc.: Pick a vantage point that lets you shoot in front light, if possible. Utilize a dark
background if available. Use a telephoto lens and a tripod, if possible. Use Chart B to select a film speed that will
allow you to use a shutter speed TWICE the reciprocal of your focal length (i.e. a 300mm lens at 1/500 sec).

Shooting from an Airplane or Boat: Use Chart B to find a film speed that will let you shoot at THREE times the
reciprocal of the focal length (i.e. 1/1000 sec for a 300mm lens).

Macro or Micro Shots: Make adjustments for loss of light due to extension of the lens or bellows, as given in the
instruction manual, or on the lens barrel. Better yet, use your in camera meter! It will need the exercise.

Excessively Long Exposure Times: Times above 10 seconds or so. Here you run into reciprocity failure (a fancy
name for "it will take a LOT longer than you think!") Follow the directions that come with every film package. You will
run into this problem whether you are using a meter or not. Bracket liberally!

APPENDIX "B": EV, FOOTCANDLES AND LUX (for REALLY serious light aficionados).

Those of you who have been involved with photography for some time may have heard the terms "Foot-candles" or
"LUX". You may find these referred to on some light meters. These measurements are used in the film industry,
television and industrial lighting. There is a relationship between these numbers and EV numbers. Since you've
already learned about EV numbers, this section will allow you to edify and amaze your friends with your knowledge of
light!

RELATIONSHIP

Is there any intuitive relationship between EV, Foot-candles and LUX? The answer is "not really". EV numbers are a
linear progression that is convenient to use for memorization of relative light levels. Footcandles and LUX proceed in
a doubling manner, which better illustrates the doubling (or halving) of light at each step. To get to LUX, simply
multiply the foot-candles by 11. The table below better represents the relationship:

Exposure Value Footcandles LUX

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EV ISO 100
-3 .03 .31
-2 .06 .63
-1 .12 1.3
0 .23 2.5
1 .46 5
2 .93 10
3 1.9 20
4 3.7 40
5 7.4 80
6 15 160
7 30 320
8 60 640
9 120 1300
10 240 2600
11 480 5100
12 950 10000
13 1900 20000
14 3800 41000
15 7600 82000
16 15000 160000
17 30000 330000

The Ultimate Exposure Computer

An Exposure Guide For Professional and Advanced

Nature Photographers
©1995-2017 Fred Parker

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