DIY Wood Boat Books

Crescent
A twenty-first century take on a 1970's classic design.

C
Step by step instructions for those new to boat
building.
Everything you need to know from building to launching

By Mike Taylor
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Contents

LIST OF DIAGRAMS ................................................................................................. 7

Introduction .................................................................................................................................... 9

The Publications .......................................................................................................................... 11

Tools .............................................................................................................................................. 13
Spline .......................................................................................................................................... 13
Clamps / Cramps ........................................................................................................................ 13
Spring Cramps............................................................................................................................ 14
'G' Cramps. ................................................................................................................................. 14
Vice Grip. .................................................................................................................................... 14
Lapstrake Clamps....................................................................................................................... 15

Lofting ........................................................................................................................................... 16

Wood Screws................................................................................................................................ 17
Metals ......................................................................................................................................... 17
Using Wood Screws. .................................................................................................................. 18

Pilot Holes. .................................................................................................................................... 20

Timber ........................................................................................................................................... 22
Organic Timber Properties ......................................................................................................... 22
Strength, Stiffness and Elasticity ................................................................................................ 23
Water content ............................................................................................................................. 24
Hardwood/Softwood ................................................................................................................... 24
Heartwood/Sapwood and Color ................................................................................................. 24
Common Boatbuilding Timbers .................................................................................................. 25
Ash .............................................................................................................................................. 25
Cedar .......................................................................................................................................... 25
Chestnut (Sweet) ........................................................................................................................ 25
Cypress....................................................................................................................................... 26
Elm .............................................................................................................................................. 26
Fir ................................................................................................................................................ 26
Iroko ............................................................................................................................................ 26
Larch ........................................................................................................................................... 26
Oak ............................................................................................................................................. 26
Mahogany ................................................................................................................................... 27
Pine ............................................................................................................................................. 27
Sitka Spruce ............................................................................................................................... 27
Teak ............................................................................................................................................ 27

Plywood......................................................................................................................................... 27
Number of Plies .......................................................................................................................... 28
Exterior Plywood ......................................................................................................................... 29
Marine Grade Plywood ............................................................................................................... 29

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Epoxy Resin .................................................................................................................................. 30

Caveat ........................................................................................................................................ 30
Mixing.......................................................................................................................................... 31
Thickening .................................................................................................................................. 32
Glass Cloth ................................................................................................................................. 32
Epoxy Resin Safety .................................................................................................................... 33
Applying Glass Cloth .................................................................................................................. 33
Smoothing................................................................................................................................... 33
Laying cloth................................................................................................................................. 34
Filling........................................................................................................................................... 34
Finishing Coat ............................................................................................................................. 35
Amine Blush................................................................................................................................ 35

Butt Joints..................................................................................................................................... 36

CRESCENT CONSTRUCTION ................................................................................ 37

Length Conversion ..................................................................................................................... 37

MATERIALS LIST ......................................................................................................................... 37

Lumber ........................................................................................................................................ 37
Plywood ...................................................................................................................................... 39
Fastening and Misc. ................................................................................................................... 40
Paint Varnish and Glue............................................................................................................... 41

Rigging .......................................................................................................................................... 42
Lumber ........................................................................................................................................ 42
Fittings ........................................................................................................................................ 43

Marking Out the Frames .............................................................................................................. 46

Marking Gage ............................................................................................................................. 47
Gussets ....................................................................................................................................... 48
Frame Assembly ......................................................................................................................... 49

Frame 1.......................................................................................................................................... 50

Frame 2.......................................................................................................................................... 51

Frame 3.......................................................................................................................................... 52

Frame 4.......................................................................................................................................... 53

Frame 5.......................................................................................................................................... 54

Frame 6.......................................................................................................................................... 55

Frame 7, Transom ........................................................................................................................ 56

Stem............................................................................................................................................... 57

Keel and Keelson ......................................................................................................................... 59

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Building Form ............................................................................................................................... 60

Bedlogs ......................................................................................................................................... 62

Frame Assembly .......................................................................................................................... 65

Planking ........................................................................................................................................ 69
Side Planks ................................................................................................................................. 69
Bottom Planks............................................................................................................................. 71

Chine Rubbing Strips .................................................................................................................. 72

Turning the Hull............................................................................................................................ 74

Deck beams and bulkheads ........................................................................................................ 74

Bulkheads ................................................................................................................................... 75
Deck Framing ............................................................................................................................. 76

Transom Knee .............................................................................................................................. 79

Mast Step and Partner ................................................................................................................. 80

Deck Battens ................................................................................................................................ 82

Centreboard case ......................................................................................................................... 86

The Centerboard .......................................................................................................................... 89

The Centerboard Hanger............................................................................................................ 90

Chain Plates .................................................................................................................................. 92

Floor Boards ................................................................................................................................. 93

Decking ......................................................................................................................................... 95

Coaming ........................................................................................................................................ 97

Rub Rail ......................................................................................................................................... 99

Rudder and tiller......................................................................................................................... 100

Tiller ............................................................................................................................................. 103

Mast ............................................................................................................................................. 106

Boom ........................................................................................................................................... 109

Raising the Mast......................................................................................................................... 110

Sail Plan ...................................................................................................................................... 111

Main Sail ...................................................................................................................................... 112

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Jib ................................................................................................................................................ 113

Notes on Painting and Varnishing ........................................................................................... 114

Paint .......................................................................................................................................... 114
Varnish ...................................................................................................................................... 115
Oiled finish ................................................................................................................................ 116
Brushes ..................................................................................................................................... 116
Surface Preparation.................................................................................................................. 117
Priming ...................................................................................................................................... 117
Top Coat Painting ..................................................................................................................... 118
Roller and Tip ........................................................................................................................... 118
Wood Stains ............................................................................................................................. 119
Non Slip Paint/Varnish.............................................................................................................. 119

Fittings ........................................................................................................................................ 121

Notes on Wooden Mast and Spar Building ............................................................................. 123

Timber ....................................................................................................................................... 123
Structural Considerations ......................................................................................................... 124
Solid/Grown Spars.................................................................................................................... 124
Tapering .................................................................................................................................... 125
Rounding the Square................................................................................................................ 126

Built Mast .................................................................................................................................... 127

Rigging ........................................................................................................................................ 128

Notes on Sail Cloth .................................................................................................................... 129

Weights, Weaves and Fillers .................................................................................................... 130
Caring for Your Sails ................................................................................................................ 130

Life jackets, Personal Flotation Devices ................................................................................. 132

How to Choose ......................................................................................................................... 132
Types of Inflation Mechanisms ................................................................................................. 132

PFDs for Children....................................................................................................................... 133

Infants and small children are hard to keep floating in a face-up position, and sometimes
protest when wearing a PFD. ................................................................................................... 133

PFDs for Adults .......................................................................................................................... 133

Near-shore Vests ...................................................................................................................... 133
This type is recommended for powerboats or sailboats in relatively calm, warm water, where
comfort and freedom of movement are important. ................................................................... 133
Flotation Aids ............................................................................................................................ 134
Throwable Devices ................................................................................................................... 134
Sizing ........................................................................................................................................ 134
Sizes can vary by PFD brand and model, so check to find the right size for you. ................... 134
Fitting ........................................................................................................................................ 134
Life Jacket Care ........................................................................................................................ 134

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Every Month.............................................................................................................................. 135

Every 3 Months ......................................................................................................................... 135
Every 6 Months ......................................................................................................................... 135

Trailer Boat Launching and Recovery ..................................................................................... 136

Check out the Slipway. ............................................................................................................. 136
Preparing the Boat. ................................................................................................................... 137
Reversing the Trailer. ............................................................................................................... 137
Ready to launch. ....................................................................................................................... 138
Recovery................................................................................................................................... 139

Appendix ..................................................................................................................................... 141

INDEX .................................................................................................................... 155

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List of diagrams

Clamp 1 .......................................................................................................................................... 14
Clamp 2 .......................................................................................................................................... 14
Clamp 3 .......................................................................................................................................... 15
Clamp 4 .......................................................................................................................................... 15
Pilot hole 1 ..................................................................................................................................... 20
Combination Drill Bit ..................................................................................................................... 21
Butt Joint ....................................................................................................................................... 36
Plan and Elevation ......................................................................................................................... 45
Marking Gage................................................................................................................................. 47
Marking Gage 1.............................................................................................................................. 47
Frame 1 .......................................................................................................................................... 50
Frame 3 .......................................................................................................................................... 52
Frame 4 .......................................................................................................................................... 53
Frame 5 .......................................................................................................................................... 54
Frame 6 .......................................................................................................................................... 55
Frame 7 Transom........................................................................................................................... 56
Transom bevel ............................................................................................................................... 56
Stem ............................................................................................................................................... 57
Aux Stem........................................................................................................................................ 57
Keel 1 ............................................................................................................................................. 59
Building Form 1 ............................................................................................................................. 60
Building Form 2 ............................................................................................................................. 60
Building Form 3 ............................................................................................................................. 61
Bedlog 1 ......................................................................................................................................... 62
Bedlog 2 ......................................................................................................................................... 63
Bedlog 3 ......................................................................................................................................... 63
Bedlog 4 ......................................................................................................................................... 64
Building Form 4 ............................................................................................................................. 65
Building Form 5 ............................................................................................................................. 66
Stem 1 ............................................................................................................................................ 66
Fairing the Frames ........................................................................................................................ 68
Limber Holes.................................................................................................................................. 68
Plywood Layout ............................................................................................................................. 69
Aux. Stem....................................................................................................................................... 72
Chine Rubbing Strip ...................................................................................................................... 72
Bulkheads ...................................................................................................................................... 75
Carlines 1 ....................................................................................................................................... 76
Carlines 2 ....................................................................................................................................... 77
Deck Support ................................................................................................................................. 78
Transom Knee 1............................................................................................................................. 79
Transom Knee 2............................................................................................................................. 79
Mast Step ....................................................................................................................................... 80
Mast Partner................................................................................................................................... 81
Mast Partner 1................................................................................................................................ 81
Deck Batten Cleats ........................................................................................................................ 82
Deck Battens 1............................................................................................................................... 83
Deck Battens 2............................................................................................................................... 84

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Forward Carline 1 .......................................................................................................................... 85

Centerboard Case.......................................................................................................................... 86
Centerboard Case Angle Brackets ............................................................................................... 88
Centerboard ................................................................................................................................... 89
Centerboard 2 ................................................................................................................................ 89
Hanger 1......................................................................................................................................... 90
Hanger 2......................................................................................................................................... 90
Hanger 3......................................................................................................................................... 90
Hanger 4......................................................................................................................................... 91
Chain Plates 1 ................................................................................................................................ 92
Floor Board Plan 1......................................................................................................................... 93
Floor Board Plan 2......................................................................................................................... 94
Centerboard Knee 1....................................................................................................................... 98
Clamp Rub Rails 1 ......................................................................................................................... 99
Clamp Rub Rails 2 ......................................................................................................................... 99
Rudder 1 ...................................................................................................................................... 100
Rudder Post 1 .............................................................................................................................. 101
Rudder Pivot Pin.......................................................................................................................... 102
Tiller ............................................................................................................................................. 103
Rudder ......................................................................................................................................... 104
Mast 1 ........................................................................................................................................... 106
Mast 1 ........................................................................................................................................... 106
Mast 2 ........................................................................................................................................... 106
Mast 2 ........................................................................................................................................... 107
Mast 3 ........................................................................................................................................... 107
Mast 4 ........................................................................................................................................... 108
Mast 3 ........................................................................................................................................... 109
Boom Crutch................................................................................................................................ 109
Boom............................................................................................................................................ 109
Centerboard ................................................................................................................................. 110
Sail Plan ....................................................................................................................................... 111
Main Sail ...................................................................................................................................... 112
Jib Sail ......................................................................................................................................... 113
Cleats 1 ........................................................................................................................................ 121
Cleats 2 ........................................................................................................................................ 122

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Introduction

The 'Crescent', designed by C. T. Allen, is the ideal sailboat for day sailing on a
small lake, river, or protected waters of a bay.

LENGTH: 15½ft

BEAM: 67 in.

WEIGHT: 450 lbs.

SAIL AREA: 135 sq. ft.

CAPACITY: 4 adults.

TYPE: 'Vee'. Bottom, centreboard day sailor.

CONSTRUCTION; ⅜ in. plywood over wooden framework,

The centreboard design has several advantages including the reduction of her draft,
so shallow water is not a problem.

Her broad beam of over 5½ft. makes it an ideal family boat with a cockpit large
enough to accommodate four adults or two adults and three kids, and side and
forward decks big enough to stretch out on when sun bathing.

She is fast, manoeuvrable and well balanced enough to be sailed by one person.

If you feel like racing, two people, of course, are needed aboard.

Fore and aft flotation chambers will keep the boat and occupants afloat even if the
cockpit is swamped.

Of course, day sailing doesn't mean you can't go for a moon-light cruise.

It merely means that the little ship is not equipped with a cabin, galley and bunks for
overnight cruising.

Running lights should, of course, be installed for after dark use.

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Her build with plywood planking on a wooden frame using epoxy is as simple as
building a sail boat can get.

However, for the boat building beginner

the original published instructions can be
somewhat difficult to interpret, hence my
attempt here to expand on and explain
the process.

Boats are complex structures and often

the plans can at first seem quite daunting.

However, like all journeys building a boat

is just a series of simple steps.

Take it one step at a time.

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The Publications

By the end of the nineteenth, beginning of the twentieth

century long before the advent of television and before the
internet was even thought of, news was principally
promulgated via newspapers.

Most newspapers however still only catered to local

audiences.

An increase in printing and distribution efficiency as well as a

growing demand for more national information led to the
emergence of mass appeal magazines, particularly those which catered to the
readers increased leisure time.

And publishers who were able to capture and keep the public's interest also gained
from increased advertising revenue.

Two of America's most popular magazines, both of which are still being published
today were Popular Science founded in 1872 and Popular Mechanics first issued in
1902.

Their popularity sprang from their formula of straightforward

reporting on scientific and mechanical developments, prescient
journalism and DIY how to articles.

Initially Popular Science was a pure science magazine but in

1916 it moved with the times to add full-colour covers extended
the focus of its coverage and began including advertising.

Both Magazines are still being published today and both, naturally
enough, have their own websites where you can subscribe and where the entire run
of back issues can be viewed.

Google Books is currently hosting "Popular Science" magazine and "Popular

Mechanics" back issues in their archives which you can browse through online.

As well as telling their readers about all the momentous inventions of the era, they
also gave them plans on how to create some of them.

Popular Science for instance included an article on how to build a Laser (and I don't
mean the sailing boat).

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While some of the plans might seem a trifle off beat to us today, they did publish
several timeless plans and instructions for the handyman.

For instance, Popular Science in February 1972 published pans on how to build a
wood strip Trail Boat, a stripper canoe in two parts for car topping.

One of the most enduring set of plans appeared in the August 1962 issue of Popular
Mechanics.

The appetite for Build It Yourself Boat plans was such that books of plans were also
published containing plans for everything from Hydroplanes to Sailboats, Runabouts
to Canoes and a few 'wacky' ones in-between.

For instance, Popular Science in February 1972 published

pans on how to build a wood strip Trail Boat and a stripper
canoe in two parts for car topping.

The appetite for Build It Yourself Boat plans was such that
books of plans were also published containing plans for
everything from Hydroplanes to Sailboats, Runabouts to
Canoes and a few 'wacky' ones in-between.

The "Boat Builder's Handbook" was published periodically

by Science and Mechanics Magazine.

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Tools

The Crescent can be built with just a few basic wood working hand tools such as a
saw, drill, chisels, plane and screwdriver.

However a power drill and jigsaw will make life so much easier.

Combination tapered drill bits with countersink, if only the one for No 8 and one for
No 10 screws will be a bonus.

Apart from basic marking and measuring tools (pencil, ruler) you will also need a
'spline'.

Spline
The 'Spline' is simply a long strip of springy material used for drawing curves.

Traditionally splines were made from fine straight grained wood such as fir, which is
available in long lengths.

But sprung steel, fiberglass or plastic strip can be used.

Clamps / Cramps

Accumulate as many Clamps or Cramps as you can before starting work on your
wooden boat,

It is perfectly true that you can never have too many and preferably of all sizes and
types when boat building.

The more woodworking and boat building you do the more uses you will find for
these versatile tools.

As an extra hand for anyone working alone.

To hold a straight-edge while marking or sawing.

To hold pieces for accurate boring.

To hold braces as you square up.

To secure work while you plane or chisel.

And of course for holding while gluing.

And don't forget about the 'Spanish windlass' or the Wire Twister Tool.

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Spring Cramps.

For building plywood on frame boats such as the Crescent the cheap and cheerful
spring loaded cramps, the ones that look like big clothes pegs are immensely useful.

When you want an extra hand just to hold something in place while figure out what to
do next.

The plastic variety with their contoured jaws, to avoid

marking your work piece, have a surprising amount of
clamping power and are so easy and quick to position.

Use one of these when you are sawing a plywood panel to CLAMP 1
clip the end of the cut together, it will stop the ends flapping.

'G' Cramps.

The iron G cramps are the maids of all work, they are robust, available in a range of
sizes, easy to use, cheap and almost indestructible.

A useful variation is the 'Edge cramp' which has an extra

screw in the centre of the 'G', these are useful holding
lips and curved surfaces.

The standard throat clearance is sufficient for most edge

clamping.
CLAMP 2
However, deep throat or long reach versions are
available.

Sizes usually refer to the maximum size of piece which can be held between pads.

These are meant to be tightened by hand using the tommy bar, using any greater
leverage may damage the cramp and the work piece.

They do have a tendency to lose their buttons, these can be pressed back on and
secured using a punch.

Always use wooden pads to protect your work.

The pads can be stuck temporarily to the cup with a bit of Blu-Tack while positioning.

Vice Grip.

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Similar to the vice grip/mole grip tool that is in every tool box.

They are a handy too but you need to be careful of their immense clamping
pressures when working with wood.

Lapstrake Clamps

These are ideal for tight clamping of lap joints.

While traditional style lapstrake cramps can be bought

from specialist tool suppliers however, they are simple to
make.
CLAMP 3
By making your own to
order you can make
them in whatever size you need.

All you need are some hardwood off cuts, some

threaded studding, nuts, wing nuts and washers.

And a scrap of leather or webbing for the hinge.

Or instead of the 'hinge' use a second length of

CLAMP 4 studding.

These are handy as the jaws can be closed in a variety of angles.

The hand screw types are similar and just as easy to make.

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Lofting

Normally a boat builder would loft full sized templates using the dimensions given in
the boat plans.

In a ship yard that was the job of the 'Loftman'.

Drawing the plans full size had two main objectives.

To identify and correct any mistakes on the original drawings.

And to create full sizes templates from which to cut the timbers.

However, in the case of the Crescent plans, as given in the magazine, lofting as
such is not necessary.

The most important dimensions given are for the frames these are fairly simple
shapes but it is still worth creating paper templates.

As the frames provide the shape and size of the boat and once set up, are used to
extract the shape of the plywood panels they must be cut out and assembled
accurately.

Constantly check and re-check your measurements, "Measure Twice and Cut
Once".

It will also be worth making a template from the plans is for the Stem and the various
knees, this will help with positioning them on the timber to avoid any knots or splits.

The shapes for the planking will all have to be taken from the assembled frames.

This will be covered as that section of the build is described.

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Wood Screws

As well as the standard slotted wood screw there are several versions of the cross-
head screw available.

The cross head screw types were aimed mainly at power driving of large quantities
such as on a production line.

Unfortunately these require different specific types of screwdriver head.

Using the incorrect size or type of driver will damage the screw and maybe even the
work piece.

And the other problem with them is, if you should want to remove them to carry out
repairs, it will be almost impossible to clear any paint, varnish or putty from the ‘slot’.

There are other types of wood screws such as those with double threads and those
with the threads going all the way up to the heads.

These however are primarily for use with composite boards which, have no place on
a wooden boat.

For the vast majority of wooden boat building work the counter sunk slotted head
wood screw is the preferred option.

Metals

The general consensus of opinion among the experts is that silicon bronze is the
metal of choice for boat building wood screws.

The corrosion of metal fastenings is complicated by many factors.

Different metals have differing reactions with various types of wood.

The process is further complicated where there is any form of electricity.

And seawater is regarded as a catalyst in electrolytic and galvanic corrosion.

So everything considered silicon bronze is regarded as the best compromise but

even then they should not be exposed to running water which, is why screw heads
on wetted areas should be covered with bungs.

If we were to go by galvanic corrosion figures then stainless 316 ‘passive’ and 314
‘passive’ and Monel should be the fastening materials of choice.

But what is the difference between ‘passive stainless’ and ‘active stainless’ and how
can you tell?

You can’t, as far as I know tell by looking at them.

And Monel wood screws are expensive and not easily obtained.

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However stainless steel screws will be fine for small boats such as the Crescent,
which don’t necessarily live in the water and especially if the screw heads are sealed
in with epoxy.

And stainless screws are probably an ideal option for fitting out and other above the
water line, work.

Except, for another of those complication caveats, stainless and oak, I am reliably
informed, are not compatible, something to do with the zinc coating I believe.

Galvanized fittings, of decent quality are increasingly difficult to find and are only
worth considering on big boats with massive timbers.

Brass screws used to be the most common metal for boat building wood screws
until silicon bronze became comparable in price and availability.

However, brass will corrode faster than silicon bronze and it is not as strong or hard
so, more prone to wringing.

Using Wood Screws.

Screws hold by exerting both tensile pull and lateral or sheer resistance.

They can even be used to draw pieces together, something which a nail cannot do.

However, it is best if the pieces to be joined are clamped together first.

The withdrawal loads a screw can resist depend on the screw material, the gauge
and the strength of the wood under the head.

Withdrawal resistance from end grain will be up to a ¼ of that across the grain.
Screws set too close to the edge will also have less effect.

A common problem when inserting screws is wringing, usually at the top of threads,
when being screwed home.

This will be minimized by drilling the correct size of pilot hole.

Lubricating the screw will also help.

My old Dad swore by a bit of bar soap as a lubricant however, he was just putting up
the odd shelf at home.

On a boat, with all the complications with corrosion it is best not to use soap or
grease in case of any chemical reaction.

It is better to use something like red lead paint or white lead paste, these will also
help protect against corrosion.

Ordinary paint or varnish can be almost as effective.

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Wringing does seem to be less of a problem when using a power driver or a brace,
possibly because of the continuous turning as opposed the stop start motion when
hand screwing.

The renowned boat builder Herreshoff built many superb craft using screws to fasten
the planks and there are a number of examples still afloat.

However, that was prompted by his method of upside down building which made
screws an easier option.

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Pilot Holes.

A common problem when inserting screws is

wringing, usually at the top of threads, when
being screwed home.

This will be minimized by drilling the correct

size of pilot hole.

Lubricating the screw will also help.

My old Dad swore by a bit of bar soap as a

lubricant however, he was just putting up the
odd shelf at home.

However, on a boat, with all the

complications with corrosion it is best not to use PILOT HOLE 1
soap or grease in case of any chemical
reaction.

It is better to use something like red lead paint or white lead paste, these will also
help protect against corrosion.

Ordinary paint or varnish can be almost as effective.

Wringing does seem to be less of a problem when using a power driver or a brace,
possibly because of the continuous turning as opposed the stop start motion when
hand screwing.

On a normal wood screw the threaded part is approximately 2/3 of its length.

The top third is the un-threaded shank.

To allow the timber to be pulled tight to the underlying surface a clearance hole to
take the full length of the shank should be drilled.

For hardwood the clearance hole should be exactly the shank size, for softwood it
can be slightly less.

Below the clearance hole the pilot hole for the threaded part should be approximately
90% of screw diameter for hardwoods and 70% for softwood.

The pilot hole can stop just short of the full length of the screw to allow the point to
bite.

The ideal hole should be perpendicular to joint and not too close to the edge or the
end.

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Ideally the shank should penetrate across the joint as this is where most stress
occurs and where corrosion most likely, the thicker shank is better equipped to cope
with this.

Drilling a clearance hole with one bit, then a pilot hole with another then, counter
sinking with a third can be a bit tedious.

Fortunately there are several quite clever combination bits available which, will drill
clearance holes, pilot holes and countersink all in one stroke.

COMBINATION DRILL BIT

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Timber

There are several timber properties and mechanical characteristics that make wood
such a superb material for boat construction.

This is just a general bit of background information on the properties of wood that I
hope will help you to understand what a superb material it is.

It may help you chose lumber for your boat but unfortunately, unless you are lucky,
you will not have the luxury of being able to pick and choose when you go to your
local lumber yard.

Organic Timber Properties

Not only is wood a beautiful material to work with and behold it is also a naturally,
renewable resource.

It requires less energy to produce than many so called ‘modern’ materials.

And it isn’t plastic.

It is the living tree’s ability to produce the material we know as wood that is strong
both in tension and compression, which enables them to grow so large and remain
upright.

And it is how it is cut and used that allows us to benefit from the timber properties of
strength and ability to withstand various kinds of stress.

Not all species of timber are strong enough for boat building.

And even within one species, different growth patterns due to environmental
fluctuations can cause variations in quality.

Most commercially obtainable wood is cut from the trunk of the tree.

And the way boards are cut from the log will affect how those timber properties are
utilised.

The stability and ‘figure’ of the wood will be determined by how it is cut in relation to
the grain of the wood.

Quarter sawing produces the most stable boards, these will be cut so that the growth
rings are close to 90 degrees to the surface of the board.

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However the most economical, and therefore the most common method is to cut
parallel slices along the length of the log, this produces a few quarter sawn boards
but mostly a mixture of plain-sawn rift-sawn boards.

Most construction strength boards have the grain running along their length.

Strength, Stiffness and Elasticity

Wood has several unique, independent mechanical properties.

However, because of its cellular structure and the way in which these cell are
organised the strength of the timber is dependent mainly on the direction of any
loading.

The main strength is along the grain or up the height of the tree as it grows, this is
the direction in which the cells and bonds between the cells grow.

The elastic properties of wood are those which allow the wood to bend under load
yet return to normal once the loading has been removed.

It is this elasticity allows the timber to absorb and dissipate shock loads.

Strength is usually regarded as the level at which it can be loaded before the stress
goes beyond the elastic range and failure occurs.

Stiffness is its ability to resist tension.

These timber properties do vary from species to species and even within species
due to environmental conditions during growth.

Much of the variation in timber properties is due to differences in density.

Wood is composed of cells, pores and cavities between the cells.

The substance we call wood is in the cell walls.

It is the variations in the ratio between the cavities/pores and in the thickness of the
cell walls which creates the differences in timber properties.

Other factors that will affect the strength are defects such as knots and shakes,
moisture content and temperature.

Not all timbers are suitable for boat building.

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Water content
One reason we use dried or seasoned wood for constructional purposes is that it
increases those timber properties which affect strength.

The greatest increase is its ability to withstand compression, and its strength when
under stress but without affecting the elasticity unduly.

Generally, the greater the water content, the softer and more pliable the wood will
be.

This is part of the reason why steam bending works so well, the other part being the
high temperature.

Steam bending can however weaken the internal structure of the wood.

Hardwood/Softwood
Timber is normally classified as either softwood or hardwood.

It’s a method of classification that can be misleading as hardwoods are not

necessarily hard nor softwoods necessarily soft.

The wood from conifers such as pine is classified as softwood.

Hardwoods on the other hand come mainly from broad leaved trees, such as oak

This leads to such anomalies as balsa being classed as a hardwood, while yew is
classed as a softwood.

And even within a species there can be quite a range in the density of the wood it
yields.

Heartwood/Sapwood and Color

The color difference between heartwood and sapwood in most species does not
generally mean that there is any difference in the mechanical timber properties.

So much depends on the species, but generally the color difference is just that.

Some resinous species such as Longleaf Pine may show an increase in strength,
due to the amount of resin which increases the strength when it is dry.

There can also be a difference in density, thus the hardness and strength and quality
between latewood and early-wood, which shows up as a difference in color.

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But again there are so many different environmental factors involved as well as
differences in species and differences between ‘diffuse-porous woods’ and ‘ring-
porous woods’ that it is impossible to generalise.

Besides, for ease of working, wood with straight grain and little in the way of contrast
between the latewood and early-wood is preferable.

Fortunately for those of us who don’t have the luxury of being able to pick and
choose these differences are on the whole differences in degree.

And for the majority of us building or restoring small boats there will be more than
enough of those desirable timber properties in the lumber we buy if we chose a
suitable species and buy from a reputable lumber yard.

Common Boatbuilding Timbers

Ash
Ash has fairly good rot resistance.

It bends easily and works easily.

However, it does discolor with exposure.

But it does have an excellent strength for weight ratio.

Cedar
Yellow cedar is the hardest of the cedars and has exceptional resistance to
weathering and rot.

It has a tight grain and is easy to work.

Red cedar is cheap and easy to work but has low strength and is prone to swell
rather a lot when wet.

Lebanon cedar is easy to work has a straight grain and provides a good finish.

Chestnut (Sweet)
Sweet Chestnut has a rather course texture and a straight or spiralled grain.

But it is easy to work and finishes well.

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Cypress
Cypress is an excellent choice for structural members.

It has its own preservative oil (cypressene) which gives it a natural durability

It is also a stable wood, resistant to splitting and warping, it is strong, relatively easy
to work and readily accept paints, stains and glue.

Perhaps that’s why Noah made his Ark from Cypress.

Elm
This strong tough wood has straight grain is good to work and finishes well.

It is also good for bending and has good rot resistance.

Fir
Fir is a strong soft wood which is good for planking.

It bends well, is easy to work and finish and has good rot resistance.

Iroko
An excellent cheap substitute for teak Iroko is available in large boards.

It has excellent rot resistance moderately easy to bend and glues well, though some
glues may leave a black line.

Moderately good to work is has a tendency to distort and can be difficult to finish.

Larch
This durable soft wood is good for planking.

It will finish well though its general workability, bend-ability and rot resistance are
only moderate.

Oak
A very strong wood which has straight grain, works well and fishes well.

However, it is prone to shrinkage, cracking, and swelling.

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Mahogany
There are many varieties of mahogany usually denoted by the country of origin.

It finishes well is easy to work has good rot resistance and bends easily.

Pine
Huron, Kauri and White pine are soft woods which all work bend and finish
reasonably well, they also have fair rot resistance.

White pine is available in large boards.

Pitch pine had good rot resistance but is difficult to work.

Sitka Spruce
This is an excellent wood for spars as it is available in long lengths.

It has a straight grain and an even texture.

It works well finishes well and is moderately rot resistant.

Teak
This is an expensive wood which is not normally available in large sizes.

However it finishes well has excellent rot resistance and moderately easy to bend.

It has a straight grain and has excellent resistance to rot and marine borers.

Plywood

When boat building with plywood always use the best quality you can afford.

For hulls and decks, my advice is to always use marine grade.

Any extra you pay for a better grade will be repaid by

• The longevity of your boat

• Reduced repair bills

• A reduction in building time

• The resale value.

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Natural timber is a wonderful material however, it is relatively unstable, it will shrink

and swell across the grain rather than along it which, can distort.

How much will depend on how the planks have been cut.

And its tensile strength is greatest along the grain but will split with the fibers.

Plywood overcomes these problems by gluing together a number of layers with the
grain running at right angles in the alternating ‘piles’.

Extra stiffness can be obtained by laying the outer layers at 45 degrees.

The greatest strength of a sheet of ply is usually parallel to face grain.

The ‘piles’ or veneers are thin sheets which are either sliced or rotary peeled from
the log.

There are always an odd number of veneers in a sheet the minimum number being
three.

The center pile is known as the ‘core’.

The outside layers are called the faces, the front face usually has a better finish than
the back.

Intermediate layers are known as ‘crossbands’.

The more veneers that are used the stronger and stiffer the plywood becomes, so for
bending fewer is better.

It is the water resistance of the type of glue used to laminate the piles, which
determines the grade of the ply, as well as wood of the veneers.

Plywood is normally sold in rectangular sheets of 4ft by 8ft 1220mm x 2440mm.

Larger sheets up to 5ft x 12ft can be obtained.

Number of Plies
The bending, tensile and compression strength of plywood are determined by the
strength of the laminates and direction in which the grain lies.

As the number of plies/piles increases, the crosswise strength and stiffness of a

plywood sheet will also increase.

Three-ply, for instance, is strongest along the surface grain axis, however, it bends
more easily across the grain as there is only the core with grain at right angles
across the sheet and the outer veneers are thicker.

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Where there are more than three plies (always an odd number) the center is still
known as the core the outer piles as faces and the in between plies as cross-bands.

The more fibers running in both of the directions the greater will be the shear
strength across the plane of the sheet.

Exterior Plywood
There are various grades of exterior ply which are all classed as WBP (Weather and
Boil Proof).

Water-resistant adhesives are used which can resist a certain amount of moisture.

Top grades use phenol-formaldehyde, however most use ‘melamine urea-

formaldehyde’ which is not so suitable for use in wet conditions.

Marine Grade Plywood

Marine Grade is made with waterproof adhesive so that it can be used under water.

It is normally laminated with a ‘phenol-formaldehyde resin’ which, sets permanently

under heat and pressure.

The bond is permanent and will not deteriorate under wet conditions, heat or cold.

There should be no voids in the core or crossbands, though these may, on lower
grades have been patched with synthetic material.

The better grades will have been pressure-preservative treated for resistance to
decay.

Marine grade is produced in soft woods such as Douglass fir or larch, and in a
variety of hard woods.

While the softwood plys are strong and light they do have a tendency to ‘checking’.

Hardwood plys, on the other hand are heavier, and that little bit more expensive.

Mahogany plys are probably the best, though Meranti is strong but heavy.

Okume or Gaboon is a lighter hard wood but it doesn’t have the same rot resistance
as Mahogany or Meranti

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Epoxy Resin

There is a bewildering range of epoxy resins on the market today.

So, which resins to use when building wooden boats?

There are two main types in use in boat building.

The Polyester type which are the cheaper.

However, despite being used to build GRP boats they are not suitable for building
with wood.

Epoxy type resins have superior ability to bond to wood.

They are much less porous and have superior gap filling ability.

As with most things in life you get what you pay for.

Good quality marine epoxies are expensive.

The less you pay the more likely it is that the resin has been diluted.

Whether it’s been diluted with cheap filler or non-solvent thinner it will reduce its
quality.

Stick to (sorry about the pun) a good quality, well-known brand of ‘marine’ epoxy, it’ll
pay in the end.

Caveat
1. Keep the wood from getting wet by protecting the integrity of your epoxy and
fiberglass "envelope." If water gets behind the epoxy and fiberglass, the wood
swells. Like ice cracking concrete, wet wood will crack the protective coating,
allowing in more water, and setting up a cycle of decline.

2. Keep sunlight off of epoxy. Epoxy is miraculously strong and it's absolutely
waterproof, but UV light is epoxy's Kryptonite. It won't last more than a few months
in direct sunlight before oxidizing and cracking. (Any epoxy manufacturer claiming
otherwise is signalling that they are not to be trusted.) Protected with coats of varnish
or paint, epoxy will hold up for decades. Maybe forever. We just don't know! Well-
maintained wood-epoxy boats from the dawn of the epoxy age in the 1970's are still
like new

Before using traditional petroleum based epoxies you should consider the flood of
new scientific evidence on adverse effects of BPA.

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Before we get carried away with how wonderful epoxies are we need to bear in mind
that there are some and there is a growing concern among the scientific community
about the adverse health and environmental risks of traditional petroleum based
epoxies.

Epoxies are hard therefore brittle.

There are additives which will make them less so but these will reduce their other
good points.

So it is best not to use them on anything which needs to flex, such as sheathing a
carvel boat.

They will deteriorate under prolonged exposure to UV light (sunlight). Even clear
epoxies will yellow. So they will need to be over coated.

As they cure a waxy coating (blush) will form on the surface. This needs to be
completely removed before over-coating with anything. Nothing will stick to the wax.

When over-coating with another layer of epoxy this is best done after hardening but
before it has fully cured.

Any contamination of the wood such as oil, wax or moisture will prevent the epoxy
soaking in. This can result in the coating peeling off.

Before planning a big project involving epoxy resin make sure that you are not
allergic to it.

It never used to bother me but I now find that while I’m ok doing small jobs,
prolonged exposure leaves me with a skin rash and I have occasionally felt quite ill.

Mixing
All epoxies come in two parts, the resin and a hardener (curing agent).

Mixing ratios will vary from one product to the next.

It is always best to stick to the recommended ratios. However curing times can be
altered by altering the ratio. But beware some products are less forgiving than
others.

Mixing must be thorough.

The working time (pot life)is the interval after mixing during which the epoxy can be
applied. This will vary according to the product used.

Only mix the amount that you will have time to apply during the ‘pot life’.

Make sure you have all the components, tools, etc. ready before mixing.

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At the end of the ‘pot life’ the mixture will begin to get warm and can become
dangerously hot. Be careful especially if using plastic mixing pots.

Although the epoxy will ‘harden’ quite quickly the actual ‘curing’ can take days before
full strength is attained.

Most epoxies are best used when temperatures are between 15C (60F) and 25C
(80F) and when humidity is low.

An increase in the temperatures will reduce the working time but will thin it making it
easier to spread.

Thickening
There are numerous epoxy resin thickeners which are available commercially, such
as micro balloons, talc, silica and the like.

Most are strong and sand easily and are available in a range of colors.

You can use sawdust or even white wheat flour.

I have heard of pulverised limestone and Portland cement being used successfully,
however these must be a bugger to sand.

Glass Cloth
A layer of fiberglass cloth is used to add a high degree of protection, strength,
abrasion and impact resistance.

There are a number of different forms.

Chopped glass strands, these are low cost adding bulk and stiffness but not much
strength.

Woven and knitted cloths where the strands are aligned to give multi-directional
strength

Unidirectional cloths where the strands are mostly aligned in one direction to give
longitudinal strength.

These are available in varying sizes from tape to sheets.

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Epoxy Resin Safety

Epoxies present more health and environmental risks than any other boatbuilding
materials.

While the manufacturers of epoxies seem to prefer lay persons such as myself not to
have access to the latest scientific findings, some of the concerns can be about
Bisphenol A can be read here.

Apparently it is the hardeners which are the main cause for concern.

Whatever, it is best to avoid any skin contact with the material.

Use disposable gloves.

If you do get any epoxy resin on your skin wash it off as soon as possible.

Use a proprietary hand cleaner rather than a solvent.

Vinegar can be used as a cleaner rather than acetone.

Applying Glass Cloth

Before you start applying your glass cloth, be it a full sheathing or simply applying
tape to the seams, make sure you have enough to everything.

And not just the Epoxy and glass cloth but all those other bits and bobs such as
spatulas, mixing cups, rollers etc. needed for applying glass cloth.

Running out of epoxy in the middle of the job is a nuisance but running out of
applicators or mixing cup can be even more frustrating.

As it is nigh on impossible to clean and reuse brushes or rollers, stock up with cheap
disposable ones.

And that goes for latex gloves, you might not be allergic to epoxy when you start but
prolonged exposure can become a problem.

Smoothing
But before you start to lay the cloth, get all the faring and smoothing done.

Any holes, hollows, gaps and the like should be filled with thickened epoxy.

The surface of the wood is probably best 'smoothed' as you would do it if you were
applying paint, so smooth and level but key the surface to aid penetration and
adhesion.

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Laying cloth
You will find it easier when applying glass cloth to do any adjustments trimming etc
when the first coat is dry, though it can be done when it is wet.

For a small boat or canoe it is possible to cover the hull with one sheet of cloth,
otherwise joints will need to be made.

Joints can simply be butted, however this can be fiddly, overlapping joints are easier.

The weave of glass cloth is quite loose so it will mold easily to the shape of the hull.

Trim any hanging edges so they are not going to get in the way as you work around
the piece.

Once you are happy with the cut of your cloth, you can apply the wetting out coat of
epoxy.

This coat as well as wetting out, bonds the cloth to the surface.

The trick here is not to apply more resin than is necessary and only mix it in batches
that you have the time to apply before it begins to go off.

Decide where you are going to put it before mix a batch.

Use a roller to spread the resin as this will be quick and less likely to move the cloth
while you are working.

At this stage you are not trying to fill the weave, this is the bonding coat.

So, only enough resin to bond and wet it, then squeegee out any air bubbles, runs or
sags.

The cloth should now appear transparent.

Filling
This next coat when applying glass cloth is to fill out and smooth the weave of the
cloth.

The sooner this coat is applied after the last one has cured the better.

Any more than 24 hours between coast and the surface will need to be cleaned to
remove any possible dirt, debris and more importantly, amine blush.

There is no need to sand between coats, however if it is necessary, make sure not to
sand through the weave of the cloth.

If you use a roller for this coat you may need to 'tip' the surface to get rid of stipples.

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Again, don't apply too much resin, better to give it two coats rather than risk having
runs and sags.

Finishing Coat
The final coat or coats when applying glass cloth, build up enough resin to allow for
sanding to a smooth finishing without the prospect of cutting into the actual cloth.

This is applied in the same way as the previous coat.

Again beware of using too much resin and if using a roller 'tip it' to smooth to reduce
the amount of sanding needed.

The final coat when applying glass cloth must be allow to cure properly before
sanding, at least overnight or 24 hours, depending on the cure time, check the
manufacturer's instructions.

Amine Blush
Towards the end of the curing process a ‘wax-like’ film forms on the surface of the
cured epoxy resin.

This film will affect how subsequent coats adhere.

However, if you re-coat before the first coat is completely cured, the new epoxy will
dissolve the top layer of the 'first' coat and fuse 'chemically' before blush has formed.

'Blushing' can be reduced by working in warm temperatures and with low humidity
levels.

If subsequent bonding isn't done within 24 hours or so, it is a good idea to wet-sand
the cured epoxy,

The amine blush is water soluble, so it can be washed off with clean warm water, all-
purpose soap, and a stiff brush or Scotch-Brite pad.

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Butt Joints

Joining plywood with butt blocks can be done much more easily with the planks laid
flat on the floor.

BUTT JOINT

Use 2" wide strips of the same plywood as the plank for the butt blocks, these should
be on the inner or hidden side of the plank.

You will need a level floor area large enough to lay out the full plank, some polythene
sheeting to lay under the joint and on top of the butt block, some un-thickened epoxy
to wet out the joint area and some thickened epoxy for gluing and some weights to
place on top of the joint.

Lay the planks flat with a sheet of polythene under the joint to prevent sticking to the
floor, making sure that all is lined up properly.

Wet out the joint area and then apply thickened epoxy to the butt joint and apply, lay
some polythene on top and apply the weights, making sure that nothing moves in the
process.

Allow 24hr to cure and then turn the plank over.

Wet out the joint with epoxy then lay a length of 2" fibreglass tape along the joint.

Cover with plastic or polythene wider than the tapes and then use a roller squeegee
to squeegee the excess resin out.

Clean up any squeeze out before it sets and allow to cure.

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Crescent Construction

Length Conversion

1 inch = 25.4 mm

1 foot = 304.8 mm

MATERIALS LIST

Lumber

The original article stipulates the use of Fir for all framing, except for the stem band.

However it is worth checking out what timber is available locally.

And is it available in knot free lengths in the sizes you need?

The stress is on the word 'locally' for the simple reason that you might need an extra
piece for whatever reason (we all can make mistakes) also you will save on transport
costs.

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Lumber,
Quarter sawn fir (edge grained)
No Dimensions Use
2 ¾" x 2" x 16' Chines
2 ¾" x 2" x 16' clamps
6 ¾" x 2½" x 10' frames
2 ¾" x 3⅝" x 10' deck beams
2 ¾" x 2" x 6' Carlines
4 ¾" x 2" x 12' deck batten
2 2" x 4" x 6' bedlogs
2 ¾" x 5⅝" x 8" floor Board
4 ¾" x I¾" x 16" (scrap) deck Supports
2 ¾" x I¾" x 16" (scrap) floor hold down
1 ¾" x I¾" x 12' transom framing
1 ¾" x 4" x 4' end posts (centreboards
case)
1 11/16" x 4" x 4' center deck batten
1 11/16" x 6" x 16' (stair tread material) Keel
1 ½" x 4" x 14' keelson
2 ¾" x ½" x 10' (oak shoe molding) molding (coaming)
2 ½" quarter-round 10' molding (bulkhead)
(white pine)
2 ¼" x 1¼" x 16' (pine or oak) chine rubbing strip
1 11/16" x 3" x 16' (oak or yellow pine) clamp rub rail
6 ¼" x 4" x 8' (oak or yellow pine) coaming
1 2" x 12" x 16' (new or used) building form
4 2" x 4" x 3' (new or used) legs (form)
1 ¾" x 4" x 14' (fir-pine) stringer
6 ¾" x 1½" x 5' (pine-fir) cross stringer
12 shingles wedges
1 1⅝" x 3⅝" x 5' (oak or fir) tiller
1 11/16" x 8" x 4' (oak stair tread) rudder post
1 2¾" x 8" x 26" (oak or fir) stem

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Plywood
The original article stipulated 'Exterior Grade Fir Plywood' however, if you really want
your boat to last, then I would highly recommend using a Marine Grade, it will be well
worth the extra cost.

The original also specified using two ⅜" x 4' x 16' plywood panels for the sides and
bottom, as 16' panels are not standard I have specified four 8' panels, which will
subsequently need joints in the sides and bottom.

However, once again consider what is available locally.

Marine Quality Plywood

4 ⅜" x 4" x 8' Sides. bottom and bulkheads
2 ⅜" x 4" x 8' Decking
2 ½" x 12" x 5' Centreboard case
1 ¾" x 2" x 4' Transom
2 ½" x 18" x 8' Floor
1 ¼" 4' x 4' Gussets

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Fastening and Misc.

Once again I have deviated from the original 'Material's List'.

It stipulated plated screws, stainless or brass are readily available and will be
superior.

Fastenings and Miscellaneous

12 gross ¾" No 8 stainless steel flat head wood screws

1 gross 1½" No 10 stainless steel flat head wood screws

1 gross 2" No 10 stainless steel flat head wood screws

1 gross 1¼" No 10 stainless steel flat head wood screws

6 ¼" x 6" galvanised or stainless steel carriage bolts

7 ¼" x 4" galvanised or stainless steel carriage bolts

1 3
/16" x 24" x 52" hot rolled steel (centreboard)

1 ⅛" x 12" x 30" 24ST aluminum or steel (rudder)

3 ¼ -20 brass Wing nuts

2 1
/16" x 1" x 4" brass (floor cleats)

2doz 3
/16" x 2" stove bolts

1doz ¼" -20 x 1½" brass cap screw and nuts

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Paint Varnish and Glue

Once again I have deviated from the original 'Material's List'.

There are numerous "waterproof" glues available today that were not readily
available when the plans were first published.

Epoxy, with a filler, is a tried and tested gluing method that also has gap filling
properties (useful if you are not the most skilled of woodworkers).

Epoxy resin is also superb for sealing and waterproofing bare wood.

Paint, Varnish and Glue (Marine Quality)

1 gal primer

1gal marine gloss paint

½gal spar varnish Interlux

2gal Epoxy resin plus hardener

Epoxy filler (sawdust?)

Waterproof Glue
(optional alternative to gluing with epoxy)

2" Fiberglass tape

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Rigging

Lumber
Rig Lumber

No Dimensions Use

2 11/16" x 3" x 20' (fir stair tread) mast

2 11/16" x 3" x 6' (fir stair tread) mast

1 2" x 6" x 2' mast step

1 2" x 6" x 2' mast partner

1 2" x 2" x 4' mast blocks

2 ¾" x 3" x 14" (fir) mast

2 ¾" x 4" x 12" boom

Building your own mast and boom is relatively straight forward.

However, as you can see from the list on the next page, rigging you Crescent can
work out quite expensive.

And making your own Sails is something of a specialised skill, the advice in the
original article was to purchase the sails from a sailmaker.

So it is worthwhile keeping an eye out for similar second hand rigs being advertised
on ebay, Craigslist etc. such as those for the "Snipe" or "Wayfarer".

For anyone thinking of making their own sails the Main and Jib measurements are
given on Pages 110 and 111.

You can easily and cheaply make mock-up sails from the cheapest of materials such
as Polly tarp.

But by far the most commonly used material for leisure boating sails are the various
types of Woven Polyester such as Dacron. (See Page 127).

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Fittings
Rig Fittings
125 ft ⅛" dia. Wire rope (galvanised or Stainless)

5 ¼" x 6⅛" turnbuckles

12 ⅛" cable clamps

10 ⅛" thimbles

1 Boom Goose Neck

1 mast head sheave (for ⅜" dia. rope)

1 cheek block

1 cleat 6" (deck)

4 cleats 4"

2 bow chocks

10ft ⅝" sail track (boom)

24ft ⅝" sail track (mast)

3 eye strap, size #0

1 ⅜" x 18" sheet traveller

1 swivel eye tackle pulley 1½" sheave

1 shoulder nut eye bolt 5/16" x 4¼"

2 screw pin anchor shackle 3/16"

2 bullet halliard block

1 adjustable sail track stop

2 deck blocks

2 through deck fairleaders size 2

4 chain plates

2 #1 open shell block

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2 #0 open shell blocks

1 7
/16" x 6" shouldered nut eye bolt (mooring ring)

2 1¾" boom travellers

2 forward chain plates (⅛" x 1 x 10") brass

2 aft chain plates (h x I x I x IOM) brass angle

1 bow plate, size 2

1 set spreader fittings (mast)

1 set whisker pole fittings (optional)

2 ¼" brass pipes (spreader: 24" long)

3 mast tangs. size #0

2 halliard shackles (mainsail and jib)

1 clew outhaul (⅝" sail track)

1 jib halliard block

2 1" pintle

2 1" gudgeon

150ft ⅜" multi-plat rope

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PLAN AND ELEVATION

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Marking Out the Frames

Start construction by drawing, on stiff paper or thin card, full-size patterns of each
frame from the dimensions given in the diagrams below.

Accuracy at this stage is very important as this is will determine the shape and
dimensions of the finished boat.

Note that all dimensions are given from a base line and vertical centreline and that
only half of frame is shown, the other side is a mirror image.

When laying out, draw in both sides.

Note too, that the side members of each frame are cut 1ft. longer than the deck
height as indicated by the dotted lines.

This additional material is used to, secure the frames rigidly to the cross ties that are
part of the building form.

The outline for the transom can be laid out directly on the ¾" plywood from which it is
to be cut, alternatively build the frame first and then use that to mark the plywood.

Note that the transom plywood is not notched for the chines or clamps.

NOTE ON CONSTRUCTING FRAMES:

• DOTTED FRAME EXTENSIONS INDICATE ADDITIONAL MATERIAL

NEEDED FOR SECURING FRAMES TO FORM.

• CUT CLAMP AND CHINE NOTCHES AFTER ASSEMBLING.

• ALL FRAME STOCK ¾" x 2½".

• ALL GUSSETS ¼" PLYWOOD.

• GUSSETS ON BOTH SIDES OF ALL FRAMES.

• DECK BEAMS ARE INSTALLED AFTER HULL IS REMOVED FROM FORM

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Marking Gage

The original article suggested that the

marking the ¾" x 2½" frame material
for cutting to the correct angle could be
simplified by making up a marking
gage as shown.

However, this does mean that all the M ARKING G AGE

framing lumber needs to be in 10'
lengths.

You may or may not find it useful?

To use the marking gage, place a 10 ft. length of the frame material along the inside
of the right hand bottom frame line on your full-size drawing.

M ARKING G AGE 1

Allow enough stock projecting to the right to make the right side frame member plus
the 1 ft. extension.

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Place the marking gage on the left side of the centreline (position 1, Fig. 1), and
mark the frame material.

Next, place the gage along the inside

of the right side frame line position 2,
Fig 1) and mark the frame material on
the gage side facing the pattern
centreline.

This last mark not only determines the

correct angle, but also the length of
the bottom frame member.

Saw the frame member on the marks.

Now, turn the remaining piece of frame material over and place on the left side
bottom pattern line so that the angle- cut edge lines up with the vertical centreline.

Place the marking gage along the left side pattern line as in position 3, and mark and
saw the frame material.

With the angle cuts made, place the four frame pieces on the full-size drawing in
their respective positions and mark the locations of the top of the clamp notches on
each side member.

Also mark and cut off the side

members at a point 12 in. above
the notch marks.

Gussets
To make the gussets, tape an 8"
x 12" piece of paper over the
corner of the pattern and
centreline, as above, and lay out the gussets full size from dimensions given.

Remove the paper, cut gussets to size and transfer outlines to ¼" plywood.

Cut four corner gussets for each frame.

No pattern is required for the center gussets for frames 2 to 6 since they are 2½" x
12" and rectangular in shape.

Note the gussets on frames 2 and 6 that must not be glued as they need to be
removed later in order to install the bulkheads.

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Frame Assembly
Assemble the frame members with the gussets using the full-size patterns as an
alignment guide.

Once again, the stress is on accuracy at this stage as the frames will determine the
shape and dimensions of the finished boat.

Check and recheck all your measurements, "measure at least twice, cut once".

Before gluing check each frame for squareness,

one way is to make sure that diagonals are the
same length.

Use thickened epoxy or a waterproof glue and

seven ¾" No 8 screws spaced as indicated in the
diagrams, so as not to interfere with cutting the
chine and clamp notches.

Follow the same procedure in making the other frames.

And mark up each frame with it's number as you build it so that they don’t get mixed
up.

After the glue dries, mark and cut out the clamp, chine and keel notches.

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Frame 1

FRAME 1

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Frame 2

Don't forget to include the extra 1' (dotted lines) for clamping to the building form.

But the other dotted lines such as the deck beam and gusset are fitted later when the
hull has been planked and turned over.

Frame 2

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Frame 3

It is a good idea to mark up each frame with its number as you build them so as to
avoid confusion when they are assembled on the building form.

FRAME 3

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Frame 4

FRAME 4

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Frame 5

FRAME 5

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Frame 6
As well as marking the frame number on the assembly make a note of which is the
'fore side'.

FRAME 6

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Frame 7, Transom

The notches for chines etc. are only cut in the frame material not in the transom
plywood.

FRAME 7 TRANSOM

Note the top and bottom bevels to the transom

assembly, this is to allow it to be set at an angle to the
deck and hull bottom.

TRANSOM BEVEL

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Stem

STEM

Lay out the stem and cut to shape as above.

I've outlined the inner stem in red as the original

drawing was slightly confusing.

The portion highlighted in blue is the area bevelled so

as to take the side planking.

The smaller piece 'Aux Stem' (highlighted in pink)

adds shape to the stem.

The materials list suggests either fir or oak for the

stem, for this outer or 'auxiliary' part I suggest that you
use oak or a suitable hardwood.

This 'Aux' piece is fastened in place after the side

planking is installed. AUX STEM

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It covers the plywood edges and can be faired flush and shaped, thus eliminating the
need for cutting a rabbet on the stem for the side planking to fit into.

It can be cut, as well as fitted and shaped, later.

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Keel and Keelson

.

Lay out the keel and keelson as in the diagram.

Saw to within 1/16" of the line and finish off with a plane.

The bevel on the side of the keel to accommodate the

planking can best be done after it has been assembled,
while faring the frames.

The centreboard slot should be left until the hull has been
planked.

KEEL 1

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Building Form

To keep the frame parts in alignment during

construction, the hull is built upside down on a
building form

BUILDING FORM 1

New or used lumber can be used for the form,

just as long as it is good straight stock.

Follow the dimensions given alongside.

Note that the notches are cut wider than the

actual frame thickness, including center
gussets.

This extra width will allow for shimming or

wedging the frames securely in the form.

Wooden shingles make excellent wedges.

When the hull is completed, these wedges can

be knocked out and the hull easily lifted from
the form.

If you are building your boat on the concrete

floor of a garage, anchor the form to the floor
with two lag bolts.

The original boat had to be built outdoors so,

the form was anchored to stakes driven into the ground.
BUILDING FORM 2

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However, regardless of where the form is set up, make sure it is plumb and level.

BUILDING FORM 3

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Bedlogs

The bedlogs, made from the 2" x 4" x 6' timber, are crucial for supporting the
centreboard case.

The bottom of the case is the most likely place to develop leaks on any boat with a
centreboard.

So, do take care cutting and assembling these.

BEDLOG 1

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Before the frames are set in place clamp the 2 x 4 in. bedlog timbers to the form as
indicated by the red lines on the Building Form diagram (page 59) and mark the
contour of the form on them.

BEDLOG 2

Remove and saw to within 1/16" of the line.

Re-clamp in place and plane to the contour of the form.

Remove and cut the ½" x 1" rabbets,

along the straight (upper) edge, for
the center-board case panels.

Be sure to make one left and one

right hand bedlog.

BEDLOG 3

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BEDLOG 4

Now lay out and drill the 17/64" holes.

These holes not only need to be a tight fit for the bolts, they also need to be drilled
vertically and accurately.

It is worth investing in (or borrowing) a drill stand just for these holes alone.

Give the bedlogs several coats of epoxy to seal the wood.

Then set them aside until needed.

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Frame Assembly
.

Having made up the frames, transom, stem and keel, you are now ready to
assemble the parts in place on the building form.

BUILDING FORM 4

To center the frames in the form,

mark a center line at each center
gusset.

Now set each frame in place and

secure it with shingle wedges,
inserted from each side so the frame
will pull up square to the form.

Place the keel over the frames and

mark each keel notch for further
fitting.

Trim length of keel if needed.

Also mark the frames so that the bottom of the keel notches can be bevelled to
conform to the contour of the form.

Remove the frames and fair the keel notches.

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Bevel the notch in the transom in the same way.

Your next step is to replace each frame and accurately secure them thwartwise to
the building form.

First Clamp a 1" x 2" cross stringer, to the longitudinal stringer and clamp the side
members of the frames to the cross stringers.

The vertical distances from the chine notches to the cross stringer should be the
same on both sides.

If not, loosen the clamps and tap

the high side down to make both
sides equal.

While the clamps are still in place

drill in. holes through the stringers
and frame side members, and
secure with 3/16" x 2" stove bolts.

Nail or screw the cross stringers to

the longitudinal stringer as in the
diagram above before removing the
clamps.
BUILDING FORM 5
Shift the transom on the transom
support to bring it into alignment and temporarily secure to the support with screws
or a C-clamp.

Next glue and bolt the stem to the keel with ¼"
carriage bolts, countersunk.

When the glue has dried, coat the keel notches

in the frames with glue and spring the keel in
place on the form securing it with bar clamps at
stem and stern.

Drill and countersink for two 2" No 10 screws at

STEM 1
each frame and transom, and fasten the keel in
place.

Bar clamps must remain in place until the chine and clamp strips are installed.

These strips can be fitted one at a time because the form is rigid enough to prevent
any springing out of alignment.

Proceed by clamping a chine strip to frame No 4, then spring it fore and aft.

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Clamp one end to the stem and the other end to the transom.

Then check the amount each frame and transom notch must be bevelled to fit snugly
against the chine.

You can draw lines on the frames parallel to the chines as a guide for sawing.

Or, as some boat builders prefer, you can make successive saw cuts between the
chine and the frame notches until the two pieces fit.

Next, cut a bevel on the end of the chine to fit the stem.

Keep the saw blade parallel to the stem, while making this cut.

If your cut is not perfect, saw between the stem and chine several times and your
joint will fit up perfectly.

Secure the chine in place with glue and one 2" No 10 screw at each frame and two
screws in the transom.

Stagger the screws in the transom.

Secure the chine to the stem with glue and two 1½" No 10 screws.

Install the chine on the opposite side in the same manner.

To install the clamp strip, proceed as you did with the chine strip.

Center the keelson on the keel and fasten with glue and 1" No 10 screws.

Countersink the screw heads by at least 1/16" to allow for filling with thickened epoxy.

The frame is now ready to be faired.

Use a block plane and coarse rasp for fairing frame members.

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First spring a batten the entire length of the boat and clamp both ends down.

This batten will

show you which
frames are high
and the amount
each frame
member should
be bevelled.

Bevel the frame

side members
to conform to
the chine and
clamp.

Fair the stem to FAIRING THE FRAMES

blend with the
chines and clamps.

Plane the bottom of the chine and the keel to conform to each frame.

Note that the bevel of the chine increases as you work toward the stem.

Continue fairing and testing with a batten until the

plywood planking will make contact with all frame
members.

Cut the limber holes next.

These are triangular notches at each side of the

keel in frames #3, 4 and 5.

The entire framework should now be sealed with

epoxy.
LIMBER HOLES

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Planking

The original article stipulated using two ⅜" x 4' x 16'

panels of 'Exterior Grade Fir Plywood' (as shown on the
cutting layout alongside).

I highly recommend using a Marine Grade plywood, it will

be well worth the extra cost.

I have also as specified four 8' panels as 16' panels are

not standard and difficult to source.

Of course this will mean that the side planks and bottom
planks will need to be butt jointed (see page 39).

The only difficulty with this is making sure that the joints
should fall clear of any frames (between frames 4 and 5),
beams, chines etc.

On the plus side 8' panels will be easier to handle.

Side Planks

The sides are planked first then the bottom.

Proceed by clamping two of the 8' x 4' (or one 16' x 4')
sheets of the plywood to the side of the framework
making sure that the joint is a snug fit and does not
coincide with any of the frames.

Mark a line along the chine, clamp, stem and transom.

Remove and saw to within ⅛" of the outside of the line.

Try them on the opposite side, which it should mirror.

If they are a perfect fit use them as a pattern to lay out

and cut the other side from the other two sheets of
plywood.

Next clamp the sides in place temporally and mark the

position of the chine and the clamp at the join in the
plywood, the butt block must fit within these.
PLYWOOD L AYOUT

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Remove and butt joint (see page 39) the two pieces of each side making sure to
position the butt block on the inside of each side and clear of the chine and clamp
markings.

When the butt blocks have cured you can clamp the sides in place, check for
position then mark the positions of all the mating surfaces, chine, clamp and frames.

These marks can then be used to drill lead holes at 4" intervals along the centre of
the outline of each frame member.

Replace the panel making sure to place it in exactly the same location so that screws
will be positioned in the center of each frame member.

Use your combination/countersink bit to drill to each hole ready for the screws.

Countersink the screw heads at least 1/32" below the surface to allow for filling and
faring.

Then remove one side at a time and apply a coating of glue along the chine, clamp,
stem, frames and transom.

Using a slow setting hardener with epoxy will allow plenty of time to coat the
members and position the planks.

Try to use just sufficient glue to make a good joint but keep 'squeeze-out' to a
minimum.

Replace the side in its original location and screw fasten in place.

Follow the same procedure on the other side.

After fastening both side planks, plane the edges flush with the chine taking special
care to maintain the same bevel.

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Bottom Planks

Now take the pieces of plywood from which one side has been cut and, with the
straight edges butting up to the keelson, spring the plywood down to conform to the
contour of the frame.

Clamp and/or tack in position so that the joint between sheets will not interfere with
any frame.

The straight edge along the keelson may not fit properly, if so allow sufficient overlap
for it to be trimmed to fit later once the butt joint has cured.

Mark the plywood along the chine, remove and saw to within ¼" of the line.

Try the pieces on the opposite side.

If they fit you can use them as a pattern, as you did for the sides.

Mark the position of the chine and the clamp where the butt joint will be located.

Remove and butt joint (see page 39) the two pieces of each side making sure to
position the butt block on the inside of each side and clear of the chine and clamp
markings.

When the butt blocks have cured you can clamp the sides in place.

If necessary scribe and plane the plywood to fit snugly to the keelson.

Having checked the plank for position, mark the positions of all the mating surfaces,
chine, clamp and frames.

These marks can then be used to drill 'lead holes' at 4" intervals along the centre of
the outline of each frame member.

Replace the bottom and temporarily secure with several screws.

Drill and counter- sink all the 'lead holes' for ¾" No 8 screws but do not drive the
screws at this time.

Remove the bottom planking and apply a coating of glue to the keel, chine, transom
and frames.

Replace the bottom and fasten with ¾" No 8 screws.

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Remove any 'squeeze-out' glue and then carefully plane the bottom planking flush
with the sides and transom.

Bevel the keelson to conform to the contour of the bottom.

Then fasten the 'aux' stem (front piece), in place with glue
and two 1½" No 10 screws.

When the glue has dried, finish shaping the contour of the
front piece flush with the sides and to the keel curve.

Prior to sanding the bottom, sides, transom and Stem, fill the
screw-head holes, dents, etc., with thickened epoxy filler.

The entire hull can now be sanded.

Use a medium grit paper first and finish with a fine grit paper.

Remove sanding dust with a vacuum cleaner.

AUX. STEM
Epoxy 2" fiberglass tape over all the joints and then give the
hull a couple of coats of sealing of epoxy.

Chine Rubbing Strips

Now temporarily tack the ¼" x 1¼" chine rubbing strips in place with I in. brads.

CHINE RUBBING STRIP

Start at the stem and work back toward the transom.

Space the brads as necessary to hold the molding strip to the contour of the chine.

Then drill and countersink for ¾" No 8 screws spaced 6 in. apart but do not drive
screws.

Remove the strips and brads, taper the stem end down to ⅛" from about 8" back.

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Fasten the strips back in place with glue and ¾" No 8 screws.

Remove any excess glue and bevel the strip to fit the contour of the bottom.

Cut the strip flush with the transom and round the corner.

The strip serves to protect the edges of the bottom planking and the edge grain of
the plywood.

Fill the Screw head holes with epoxy filler and sand flush when dried.

The hull can now be given two coats of primer.

Sandpaper lightly between coats and dust the surface before you apply the second
coat.

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Turning the Hull

To remove the hull from the building form, first knock out the shingle shims that hold
the frames in place, remove the bolts from the cross stringers and the temporary
screws in the transom.

Then, with the aid of a few friends, lift the hull from the form and place it right side up
on two saw horses.

In theory the hull having just been turned should be free of sawdust so this is a good
time to seal the inside with epoxy and give it a couple of coats of primer.

Deck beams and bulkheads

Lay out and Saw the beams for frames 1, 2, 3 and 6 to the shape shown in dotted
lines on the frame diagrams.

Note that the beams are installed on fore side of frames 1 and 3, and flush or
between side frame members on frames 2 and 6.

Fasten gussets to the fore side of frame 2 and to the aft side of frame 6

Use glue and ¾" No 8 screws.

With the beams in place, saw off the frame extensions flush with the sheer clamps
and beams.

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Bulkheads

To determine the size and shape to cut the bulkheads, take the full-size paper
layouts of frames 2 and 6 and transfer the outlines to ¾" plywood.

Make the notches for the chines clamps and keel and saw to shape.

Cut a 10" x 20" opening in each bulkhead.

BULKHEADS

Fasten to the frames with glue and ¾" No 8 screws.

Make ⅜" x 12" x 22" plywood covers for bulkhead openings and temporarily fasten in
place with ¾" No 8 screws spaced about 2 in. apart.

Then glue and nail ½" x ¾" molding around the cover on the frame and up to where
the coaming will be on the frame no. 6 as above.

Later, after removing the covers to paint the interior of the hull, coat the edges of the
covers that come in contact with the bulkheads with sealant or bedding compound.

The covers will then make an airtight seal creating a fore and aft flotation chamber.

The covers should be removed each season during storage to allow flotation
chambers to dry out.

You can convert the aft flotation chamber to a storage compartment by hinging the
cover to serve as a door.

On the original Crescent this compartment was used for storing the hull cover, boom
crutch, clothing, etc.

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Deck Framing

The short deck beams on each side of frames 4 and 5 must be installed at the same
time as the carlines.

CARLINES 1

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First cut the four ¾" x 2" x 4" back-up blocks, to which the ends of the carlines are
secured and fasten to numbers 3 and 6 deck beams with C-clamps approximately
14¼" out from the sheer clamp.

CARLINES 2

Then spring the ¾" x 2" x 6' carline material from the frames 3 to 6, bowing it so it will
be parallel to the sheer clamp at a distance of 15", mark it, remove it and cut it to
length.

Also mark and bevel the ends of the back-up blocks to fit snugly against carlines and
fasten the blocks to the deck beams with glue and three 1½" No 10 screws.

Temporarily clamp nos. 3 and 4 deck beams in place, again springing the carlines in
place and mark the angle at which to cut the ends of the deck beams.

When the carlines and deck beams fit properly, fasten with glue and 1½" No 10
screws.

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Follow by fastening the

angular deck supports in
place.

The hold down arms can

be fitted later when the
floor boards are fitted.

DECK SUPPORT

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Transom Knee

While the inside

bottom of the hull is
readily accessible,
install the mast step
and transom knee.

Lay out the transom

knee as alongside
having taken the
actual angle from the
hull.

Cut out and drill for 2"

No 10 screws
counter-bore the
screw holes so that
the screw points will
protrude 1".

TRANSOM KNEE 1

Fasten in place with glue and four screws.

TRANSOM KNEE 2

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Mast Step and Partner

Cut the 2" x 6" x 2' lumber for the base of the step to fit between frames 2 and 3 on
top of the keel.

Scribe to the contour of the keel, remove and plane bottom surface to fit.

Make up the mast step and then fasten in place with six 2" No 10 screws.

Cut and fit the spacers, do not glue the center spacers as these may need to be
moved to alter the rake of the mast.

M AST STEP

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Then make up the

mast partner and fit in
place between frame
2 and 3 deck beams.

Fasten With three 2"

No 10 screws.

M AST P ARTNER

M AST P ARTNER 1

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Deck Battens

Deck battens are next.

Cut a notch in the frame no 1 for the center deck batten.

Use a 3/4 x 1-in. cleat (supporting block) under the batten at frame 2 and a 3" knee
(wedge shaped supporting block) at the stem.

Fasten with two 2" No 10 screws at each joint.

DECK BATTEN CLEATS

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Install the ¾" x 2" deck battens on the fore and aft decks locating them as below.

DECK BATTENS 1

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Notch the battens into the

deck beams and transom
frame and fasten with glue
and x 1½" screws.

DECK B ATTENS 2

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To provide a curved form on which to fasten the coaming, lay out the curved, forward
carline blocks on 2 x 4 in. stock and cut to shape.

FORWARD CARLINE 1

Bevel the pieces, with a spokeshave, so that the coaming can be mounted vertically
after the pieces are secured in place, judging the amount of bevel by eye.

Finally fair off all deck framing pieces flush with one another with a block plane and
rasp.

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Centreboard case
.

Building and installing the centerboard case is your next step.

First make the two plywood side

panels and end posts.

Then clamp the panels in the

rabbets cut in the bedlogs.

Drill and countersink for 1¼" No 10

screws at 4" spacing.

Because it would be impossible to

paint the inside of the centerboard
case after it is assembled,
temporarily screw fasten the panels
in place.

Fasten the end posts to one panel of

the centerboard case with 1¼" No
10 screws driven through from the
outside.

Then clamp the opposite side in

place with C-clamps and adjust until
it is square and aligned end to end
with the opposite side.

Secure with 1¼" No 10 screws.

Also drill two 9/32" holes through the

bedlogs at each end for the ¼" x
4½" carriage bolts.

Now disassemble the centerboard

sides and end posts and seal the
inside surfaces with two coats of
epoxy to seal the wood then two
coats of primer and three coats of
marine paint.

When dry, coat the end posts with CENTERBOARD CASE

glue and reassemble.

To install the centerboard case, measure the overall width across the bedlogs.

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Lay out half of this width on each side of the center on frame 4 and cut out this
section down to the keel.

Next mark the center of the keel at frames 3 and 5 and connect the two points with a
line.

To lay out the slot to be cut in the keel for the centerboard, mark a point, on the
centreline of the keel aft of frame 3 equal to the amount of forward end post offset,
plus ⅜" (the radius of a ⅜" auger bit).

Mark a point on the center line of the keel forward of frame 5 in the same way for the
rear end post.

Check the distance between these points to see if it corresponds to the overall length
between the outsides of the centerboard end posts minus ¾".

Bore the ¾" holes vertically through the keel at the two marked points.

Use frames 3 and 5 as a guide and bore the holes parallel to them.

Then, with a straightedge, mark tangent lines between the two holes.

Saw out the slot starting with a key-hole saw until a rip saw can be used.

Now set the centerboard case in place tapping it down to make sure it fits tightly
against the keel.

The next job is to drill holes for the bolts that will hold the centerboard to the keel.

One way is to insert a bolt in each bolt hole on the bedlogs and tap it with a hammer
to make an indentation on the keel.
17
Remove the centerboard case and drill /64" holes through the keel at each mark.

The problem is to drill the holes vertically so they will line up with the holes in the
bedlog.

You might find it easier to keep the holes in line if leave the centerboard case in
place and use the bedlog holes as a drilling guide, just be careful not to widen the
original holes.

Then crawl under the hull and counterbore each hole ⅜" deep by ¾" dia, to take the
head of a ¼" carriage bolt.

Epoxy seal the counterbored holes.

Coat the bottoms of the bedlogs and the end posts with glue.

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Set the centerboard in place, drive the carriage bolts up through from the bottom and
put on washers and nuts.

Draw up each bolt a little at a time so the unit

will pull down evenly.

Fill the bolt-head holes with filler and

sandpaper flush when dry.

Use ¾" No 8 screws to fasten the angle

brackets in place at frame 4.

CENTERBOARD CASE ANGLE BRACKETS

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The Centerboard

Make the centerboard from 3/16" steel and have it saw-cut or flame cut with a torch.

The centerboard is supported by a hanger to which the centerboard is hinged to

permit raising and lowering.

CENTERBOARD

CENTERBOARD 2

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The Centerboard Hanger.

The reason for the hanger is to allow the centerboard to pivot.

As you can see the pivot point is low down, below the waterline.

It could be hung on a pivot drilled right through the centerboard case but that would
inevitably lead to leaks.

So, the centerboard is first attached at the pivot point to the hanger.

This whole assembly is then slotted tightly into the case from the top, the hanger
right up against the forward end of the case and held in place with screws through
the flange at the top.

HANGER 1

HANGER 2

HANGER 3

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HANGER 4

Give the parts two coats of rust-inhibitor paint.

The centerboard and hanger need not be installed at this time, however, make a test
installation so that all will be in readiness when the boat is to be put in the water.

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Chain Plates

Make the chain plates from brass stock.

CHAIN PLATES 1

The aft chain plates need to be 'handed' one for each side.

These plates are positioned vertically to the aft side of frame no. 3 with the top 1"
showing above the clamp, secure with ¼" x 1¼" cap screws

The forward chain plates are positioned directly opposite the mast and are secured
to ¾" thick plywood reinforcing pads or backing plates.

The backing pads help transfer the rigging loads.

They should fit between the chine and the clamp and be about 3" wide.

Fasten with glue and 1" No. 8 screws through from the outside of the planking
countersinking the screw holes.

Then through bolt the forward chain plate to the pad and side planking with ¼" 1½"
machine screws.

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Floor Boards
Cut the two ¾ x 5⅝" center floor boards to fit on each side of the bedlogs.

FLOOR BOARD PLAN 1

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Install cleats to support the ends of the floor boards at frames 3 and 6 and a ½" thick
spacer at frame 4.

FLOOR BOARD PLAN 2

Fasten the two center floor boards with one 1½" No 10 screw at frames 4 and 5.

For the ½" plywood floor boards, make up tapered filler blocks for the top of each
frame so that the floor boards will come flush with the ¾" thick center boards.

Glue the filler blocks in place.

Notch the plywood floor boards to fit around the frame 3, 4, and 5 gussets.

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Bolt the notched floor board, hold-

down arms to the deck brace at
frame with a ¼" x 2" carriage bolt
and wing nut.

Fasten the floor board hold-down

cleats with two ¾" No 6 screws.

Now, remove all floor boards and

seal both sides with epoxy followed
with two coats of spar varnish.

The interior of the hull should now

be given a coat of primer paint and
two finish coats of marine enamel.

The interior color used on the original Crescent is White with clear spar varnish floor
boards.

Decking

You will save material and all of the joints will center on a deck batten if you cut the 4
x 8 ft. sheets of plywood decking lengthwise into two-foot widths before applying.

Remove the chain plates temporarily to fit and mark the pieces for the forward deck.

Start by clamping one of the 2 ft. wide sheets in position so that one end is flush with
the transom and the inside edge centered on the rear deck batten.

Next clamp the forward deck piece in place with the end butted squarely up against
the rear deck piece.

The inside edge should center on the forward deck batten.

Mark the rear piece along the outside of the clamp, frame 6 and carline.

Mark the forward piece along the outside of the clamp, carline and along the inside
of the clamp to locate the position of frame 3.

Remove pieces and cut to shape oversize by at least ¼" on the outside and ⅛" on
the inside.

Replace the chain plates.

Measure the distance the chain plates are from frame 3 and lay out these
measurements along the inside clamp line on the forward decking.

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Make the chain-plate openings slightly under size

Seal the underside of decking with epoxy and paint before securing in place.

Force the chain plates through the openings in the decking by tapping with a
hammer and wood block.

Proceed with the decking on opposite side in the same manner.

Fill in the center section with the offcuts from the side pieces.

Mark and cut out the hole for the mast before fastening the center section in place.

Apply glue along the clamp, transom, frames 3 and 6 and fore and aft deck battens.

Fasten the decking in place with ¾" No 8 screws spaced 3 in. apart and counter-
sunk by at least 1/32".

Plane deck edges flush with sides, transom and carline.

Fill screw head holes with thickened epoxy.

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Coaming

The coaming is made of ¼" x 4" wide tempered hardboard (Masonite), steamed (with
a tea kettle) and bent to shape on a form.

Cut four pieces, two inside pieces 28" long with the smooth side on the inside of the
bend and two outside pieces 30" long with the smooth side on the outside of the
bend.

The 2" difference in length is to

form a half-lap joint.

Make the coaming bending form

from scrap material.

Note that the outside radius of the

form is ½" less than the radii of the
cockpit.

Steam the Masonite on both sides,

moving it back and forth over the
steam until it starts to bend from its
own weight.

Clamp each piece singly to the

form and allow to dry about a half hour.

When all four pieces are bent and dried, coat the dull side of one outside and one
inside piece with glue, clamp back in form and allow to dry.

Repeat with remaining two pieces.

Glue two ¼" x 4" wide strips of Masonite together, long enough to complete the
coaming back to the rear of the cockpit.

Make up a set for each side allowing one end extended to make a half-lap joint with
the curved coaming pieces.

Also glue up two ¼ x 4 in. wide strips for the rear coaming.

Install the coaming so that it extends 7/8" above the deck and fasten with 1¼" No 10
screws.

Install the curved sections first and work toward the back.

Finish the outside of the coaming with oak, base-shoe molding.

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This will require steaming a 6 ft. length to be bent around the front of the cockpit.

A simple steaming setup can be made by using a hot plate, tea kettle, 6 ft. of 1¼"
pipe and a prop.

It takes about three hours of steaming before the molding can be bent in place.

Be sure to use plenty of clamps to secure the molding in place around the coaming
while making the bend.

Fit forward piece first and allow to dry, making a scarf joint where the pieces meet
just forward of frame

If the pieces should twist slightly, plane the inside corner to make a tight fit to the
coaming.

Fasten the molding with 1¼"

screws.

Fill the countersunk screw-head

holes with filler and sand flush
when dry.

Plane the coaming flush with the

molding and round off the inside
edge.

Secure the forward centerboard-

case post to the coaming with two
knees.

CENTERBOARD KNEE 1

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Rub Rail

Cut the rub rail molding to shape and fasten with x 2" No 10 screws spaced 12 in.
apart.

CLAMP RUB RAILS 1

CLAMP RUB RAILS 2

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Rudder and tiller

Make the rudder blade from ⅛" thick aluminum or steel cut to the
shape shown below.

RUDDER 1

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Use 11/16" thick oak stair tread stock for the rudder post pieces.

RUDDER POST 1

First lay out a full-size paper pattern of the post and then transfer the outline to the
wood for two pieces.

Nest the two together to save material.

After sawing to shape, fasten the pieces together with glue and 1½" screws.

Then sand smooth and give the post three coats of spar varnish.

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RUDDER PIVOT PIN

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Tiller

If you cannot purchase a piece of oak for the tiller, use a clear, straight-grained piece
of fir 2" x 4" stock.

Cut to shape as below and shape the handle with a spokeshave.

TILLER

Then sand smooth and give the tiller three coats of spar varnish.

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Install rudder with pintles and gudgeons so the tiller will go between deck and sheet
traveller.

RUDDER

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Before painting the hull, temporarily fasten all metal fittings in place.

Then remove, and give the deck two coats of primer.

Follow with two coats of marine paint.

Sand lightly between coats and fill scratches with epoxy filler.

While the hull is drying between coats of paint, work on the mast and boom.

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Mast

The mast and boom for your boat can be cemented

together (not glued) and with the aid of just one C-
clamp if you use Weldwood contact cement.

However, epoxy glue is preferable, though it will

require plenty of clamping.

Since the mast is 24% ft. long, each of the three strips
that make up the laminated mast must be
spliced/scarfed.

Stagger the locations of the splices as shown.

Use ¾" thick stock for the mast center strip and 11/16"
fir stair-tread stock for the outside pieces.

Cement/glue the splices together first.

When clamping, place a block of scrap on each side

of the splice and clamp together with C-clamps.

If you are using contact cement and just one clamp,

then clamp, move the blocks and C-clamp a few
inches, re-clamp, repeating this clamping operation
along the entire length of the splice.

When assembling the three spliced pieces that make

up the laminated mast, do not attempt to cement/glue
the three at one time.

Instead, cement/glue the center and one outside

piece.

Hold together with blocks and C-clamp as you did on

the splices.

Repeat the procedure when cementing/gluing the

other outside piece.

Although the mast can be left square with corners

rounded, it is best to shape it round to reduce its
weight.
M AST 1

MAST
M 1
AST 2

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M AST 3

First lay out and saw the 6 ft. long tapers

on three sides at the top.

Do not taper the side where the sail track

is to be fastened.

Then bevel the four corners 450 with a

portable electric saw making the mast 8
sided or octagon in shape.

Continue the shaping with a plane until the

entire length of the mast is round.

For final smoothing, cement a half sheet of

3 production sandpaper to a piece of
heavy cloth and use it as you would a shoe
M AST 2 polishing cloth.

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Then sand the mast lengthwise

to remove the circular
scratches.

Lay out and cut the slot for the

mast sheave and the tang to fit
the mast step.

M AST 4

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Boom
Follow the same procedure when cementing the boom
pieces (Fig. 17) together.

Taper the bottom side of the boom and leave it square

but round the corners slightly.

Attach all fittings on the mast and boom, and then

remove them for varnishing.

Apply three coats of spar varnish, sanding lightly

between coats.

When dry, reinstall the fittings.

To support the boom

when the sail is M AST 3
removed, make the
boom crutch.

In use, the crutch is

placed on the cockpit
floor and the boom
cradled in notches cut
in the crutch top.

BOOM CRUTCH

BOOM

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Raising the Mast

Rather than attempt to level the hull with the waterline on land to set up the mast
with a 6" rake aft, launch the boat in shallow water.

Then set up the mast with a plumb line down the aft side and rig the ⅛" wire-rope
stays loosely.

Adjust the turnbuckles until plumb line hangs 6 in. aft of mast at the base

Next, install the centerboard and its lifting rig as below.

CENTERBOARD

Drop the rudder in place, install and rig the boom, haul up the sails, and your
Crescent is all set for her maiden voyage.

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Sail Plan

SAIL PLAN

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Main Sail

M AIN S AIL

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Jib

JIB SAIL

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Notes on Painting and Varnishing

We all like our boats to look smart and shiny.

The problem is how to keep her looking smart and well protected from rot, pollution,
and still be able to use her on the water.

However, we need to be realistic about what to expect from a painted finish or

varnished finish.

Any boat regardless of how experienced or careful we are will get scratched or
scuffed and be exposed to the elements.

Paint
Choosing a paint used to be simple before the manufacturers and their advertising
folk began complicating things with their hyperbole.

For most DIY'ers the simple applications are often the best.

Beware of too much clever complicated 'tec. speak', it is sure to come with a high
price tag.

The most effective coatings for wooden boats are the conventional, oil-based type.

Single pack polyurethanes are probably OK for the topcoat.

They are cheaper and easier to use than two pack and there is plenty of choice.

Oil based marine enamels are the prime choice for wooden boats, at least that is my
opinion.

However the word ‘marine’ does carry a price tag of its own regardless of the product
quality.

Now I’m not an industrial chemist so I can’t tell if one product is better than another.

Besides, I have no problem with giving my boat a fresh coat of top gloss every so
often.

So, I'm not particularly impressed with claims that a particular product will last for five
ten twenty or whatever years.

For years now I have for used good quality ‘exterior’ house enamels, I stress the
word 'exterior' as they are most likely to contain UV inhibitors.

They may be a bit softer than most polyurethanes and perhaps don’t have the same
durability as a ‘marine’ enamel but they are certainly cheaper.

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Varnish
Varnish is the most commonly used clear coating for boat woodwork.

Marine grade varnishes all claim to have lots of expensive UV inhibiting chemistry.

Varnish, is for many owners is the favourite way to show off the natural beauty of the
wood and their boat.

On wooden boats I believe it is best to stick to the traditional type of oil based boat
varnish.

Or the natural sheen and ease of maintenance of an oiled finish.

Priming when varnishing, use thinned varnish for the initial coats.

So, to get that first sealer coat of boat varnish to penetrate deeply it needs to be
thinned fifty/fifty with mineral spirits.

When brushing out the boat varnish, finish off by brushing with the grain.

Most of this first coat should soak into the wood leaving very little gloss on the
surface.

This first coat will raise a 'nap' on the surface which will need to be sanded flat
before any subsequent coats.

Use a fine grit sandpaper and remember to sand along the direction of the grain,
then remove every trace of dust.

The second coat need only be thinned by about twenty-five percent.

Sand again and touch up any bare spots then sand again before going on to
applying un-thinned coats of boat varnish.

Maintaining that glossy varnish finish doesn't have to be a battle.

To keep boat varnish looking smart just requires regular maintenance.

UV rays (sunlight), is the major cause of damage, all good quality marine varnishes
contain UV blockers.

Unfortunately, these do eventually break down allowing the UV light to penetrate to

the base layers.

And when it does the base coat will begin to deteriorate and start to separate from
the wood leaving you with those horrible opaque blisters.

Once the varnish has reached that stage the only option is to strip it all off and start
again.

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To avoid this happening you need to renew the UV protection by regularly sanding
back and replacing the top coat.

How often this needs doing will depend on the amount of sun it is exposed to,
generally once in the spring then again at the end of the season should be sufficient.

Not only will this top up the UV protection but it will fill up any scratches or cracks
and your varnish will get better looking every year.

And filling those scratches will prevent moisture from getting underneath the base
coat which will also damage the varnish to wood bond.

A quick rough guide to when your varnish needs freshen up is when water forms
sheets or flattish streaks on the surface, it should form beads.

Oiled finish
One of the ingredients which differentiates marine varnish from non-marine is Tung
Oil.

Tung Oil is an extremely tough natural wood oil.

There are other wood oils on the market which will protect and enhance the look of
natural wood, however, they won’t produce the glossy finish obtained with varnish.

I personally prefer the oiled finish to high gloss, and oil is much easier to apply and
maintain.

Brushes
A good quality, fine, natural bristle brush is a must if you want a good finish to your
boat varnish.

New brushes should be given a good clean then hung overnight to dry this will get rid
of any shop soil and help prevent bristle loss.

Clean and store boat varnish brushes by suspending them, with the bristles fully
submerged, in raw linseed oil.

When you're ready to use them squeeze out the excess oil then rinse a couple of
times in turpentine.

When you have finished varnishing, rinse off the excess with turpentine before
putting the brush back in the oil.

Suspending the brush in the oil rather than allowing it to rest on the bristles will keep
the bristles straight.

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Surface Preparation
The promises made on the tin are worthless unless the surface is properly prepared.

Even where you are merely touching up sound paint the surface must be sanded to
provide a key so the new will adhere well and survive for more than one season.

This is important regardless of whether you are aiming to achieve a smooth glossy
'yacht' finish or just a protective 'working boat' finish.

A disc sander can be used with extreme care on flat areas, but as there aren't many
of those on a boat a better option is to use a palm-sized orbital sander.

However, I have found that it is actually faster and more efficient to sand by hand.

Normally I just use a sheet of production sand paper folded in four, you can if you
wish use a backing pad, preferably one which is firm yet flexible enough to conform
to any curvature of the wood.

For sound painted areas a 120-grit paper should be OK, for rougher patches you can
use the coarser 100 or even 80 grit.

For varnish work always sand along the direction of the grain of the wood and not
across it, even for paint work sanding along the grain will make any scratching less
obvious.

Finish off with a cabinet scraper to get a really fine, smooth finish.

Before beginning painting clean off all traces of dust.

A vacuum cleaner is the most effective method for removing sanding dust.

Finish off by wiping the surface with a 'tack rag', a lint free cloth damped with white
spirit

Priming
If you intend using masking tape use the blue plastic variety or the bright colored
electrical tape, it can be left on for days and still peel off cleanly.

All bare wood needs a primer coat before starting on any top coats, regardless of
what it may say on the tin.

You'll need at least one coat of primer preferably two.

For best results apply at least three coats below the waterline and at least two
above, sanding with 120 grit between coats.

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Top Coat Painting

I prefer to use a brush rather than a roller.

However, excellent results can be obtained with the roll and tip method, this is best
done with a helper.

For the most durable and even, color coverage, most marine coatings will require
three coats, sanding between each coat.

Allow each coat 24 hours to dry, sand lightly and clean off all dust between coats.

There is no hard and fast rule about where to start but generally starting at the top
and working down seems to be the best approach.

The main thing is to work away from the fresh wet area so you don't drip on it or
catch it with a sleeve, or even sit on it, as I once did.

To get a good coverage without any runs, sags or drag marks, apply the thinnest of
films, don't overload your brush,

Apply and spread a small area at a time, brushing it out vertically, horizontally and
diagonally,

Keep a wetted edge.

In order to keep that wetted edge it may be necessary to thin the paint accordingly.

Paint will dry faster on warm, dry days when there is a bit of a breeze especially on
horizontal surfaces.

There are some special liquid additive that can helps with the flow and slow the
drying, however these are just thinners which have a high oil content.

Roller and Tip

Advocates say that it is a quicker method than brushing, yet to get a good finish
requires two people, one rolling on the paint while another follows closely with a
bush to do the 'tipping'.

And all the awkward spots and edges still need to be brushed.

The person on the roller wets it out the area thoroughly with pint taking care not to
spray drips

The 'tipper' then follows closely behind lightly brushing it out.

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It is important that the two work in consort, so that the tipper can keep up with the
roller and always be working on wet areas.

Wood Stains
There are a number of propriety wood applications which promise enhanced UV
protection but which are basically pigmented emulsions which coat the wood, in my
humble opinion a coat of paint would look better.

Dyes are not easy to use and the colors will alter as they dry and with time and UV
light.

However if you really feel you must use a stain, the wood must be completely bear
with no varnish grease, epoxy, etc. to prevent the dye soaking in.

And you should have completed all the surface preparation, sanding etc.

Try out the stain on a scrap piece of the same wood first to check how it is going to
look.

These dyes soak into the wood, so once they are on you'll find them difficult to alter,
you might be able to sand them back a certain amount.

Most dyes are spirit based so they can be diluted with a solvent or white spirit.

For best results apply liberally then wipe off the excess.

The stain must of course be completely dry before you begin varnishing.

Non Slip Paint/Varnish

Here is a great idea for non-slip areas.

This idea is similar to sprinkling sand onto wet paint or varnish except that you use a
water soluble 'grit' such as coarse sea salt, which when the varnish or paint is dry is
washed off to leave a stippled surface.

Using this method on varnish not only gives a clear finish but is also a softer less
harsh non-skid surface, much kinder to bare feet.

When you've sanded off ready for that final coat you can if you wish mask off the
areas to be made non-slip.

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Having glossy frames around the non-skid areas will look better than just doing the
whole area.

It will look even better is you can radius the corners.

Now, lay a thick coat of varnish within the masked areas making sure you go right up
to the edges of the tape.

Then before it dries sprinkle the coarse salt, as evenly as possible over the wet
varnish.

A sieve or kitchen sifter of some sort will help in getting an even covering.

The salt just needs to sit on the surface, don’t rub it in as it needs to be washed off
when you have finished.

Once the whole area is completely dry then you can wash off the salt to reveal the
clear non slip areas.

PS. Normal masking tape if it is left stuck on for too long will be a devil to remove,
that bright colored electrical tape is a much better option for those of us weekend
boat builders who need to leave it in place for any length of time.

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Fittings

While you will probably prefer to add shiny chrome fittings such as cleats to your
Crescent wooden cleats easy to make and are in many respects superior to the
metal variety.

Because the wood is softer than metal it is much kinder to the rope.

And because wood will also create more friction than metal type, it will hold your
boat's mooring lines more securely.

The first is made from a solid block of suitably sized wood.

The main criteria are that the grain should run along the horns and the space under
the horns should allow
enough room, so that even
the largest rope you are
likely to use won't jam.

When marking out the

shape on your block use a
half pattern which, can be
flipped over to provide a
symmetrical outline. CLEATS 1
For mooring, drill holes for
the base using a drill bit larger than the diameter of the thickest rope likely to be used
on it.

Then cut out the waste wood with a saw to give the basic rough shape.

The next stage is to round off all the corners and give it a bit more shape.

I have found a Japanese Saw Rasp a quick easy way to rough shape convex
surfaces.

You'll need a round rasp for the concave edges.

As the base is where greatest friction occurs, this will need to be well rounded at
both ends.

Finally, a really good sanding to make it as smooth as possible.

I mount mine on a hardwood base in order to keep the rope clear of the nonslip deck
surface.

You can if you wish drill a hole or slot through the base.

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This needs to be between the two

through bolts and below the level of
the horns.

This second method uses

1inch/25mm square lumber.
CLEATS 2
This was simply a cross bar resting
on two short pillars of the same stock and resting on a hardwood base.

The wood was cut to length, holes drilled for the through bolts then glued and bolted
together.

To finish all the corners were well rounded and sanded smooth.

Any fitting such as these that are likely to take any strain should have a backing plate
underneath the deck planking.

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Notes on Wooden Mast and Spar Building

A mast or spar made from wood not only looks and feels good but it also takes
advantage of the naturally ability that trees have developed over the centuries for
creating a tall, strong, flexible pole.

Those tall straight pine and fir trees are able to grow to such heights and survive in
wind storms because their natural elasticity absorbs the shock loads caused by
gusting winds.

Timber
There are several reasons why soft woods are the chosen
type of timber used in the making of masts and spars.

The first and most obvious is that so any soft wood trees grow
exceedingly tall and straight.

And because they have grown so tall and straight they have
developed the ‘elasticity’ to withstand all that the elements
can throw at them.

Soft woods are also more likely to be lighter in weight.

Sitka Spruce (Silver, Tideland or Menzies Spruce) has long

been the top choice for mast builders.

However many other spars have been built using whatever

light, straight-grained wood was available, such as those
shown below.

• Douglas fir (British Columbian, Oregon, Idaho, Red,

pine also known as Red or Yellow fir)
• Scots pine (European redwood, Northern pine, Red pine, Redwood, Scots fir,
Norway fir, Swedish fir, Finish fir)
• Port Orford cedar (Oregon cedar, White cedar, Ginger pine, Lawson’s
cypress)
• Larch

When choosing a timber look for one that is as light and straight grained as possible
with, hopefully few knots.

However, a few small ones knots can be acceptable.

The timber should ideally be seasoned, especially if you are building a hollow spar.

I have heard of solid masts being made from green poles.

But green timber is more likely to develop shakes and will be less able to absorb any
preservative, oil, varnish or whatever you use as a finish.

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Structural Considerations

A mast/spar needs both strength and stiffness and be able to resist fatigue.

Sometimes these characteristics can be conflicting.

Strength or resistance to breaking in wood involves its elasticity which allows the
wood to bend to absorb stresses.

Whereas stiffness is the resistance to bending.

All spars need to be able to absorb the shock of a gust which the wood absorbs by
bending but too much bend will spoil the sail shape so a happy compromise is
needed.

And stresses will differ depending on the types of rig and whether the mast keel
stepped, deck stepped or in a tabernacle.

Another consideration is weight aloft.

Keeping weight within reasonable bounds is

just one of the reasons for using soft woods.

It is also one reason for building a hollow mast.

However, most spars taper towards the top, as

the diameter becomes smaller so the weight
becomes less.

For the average cruising yacht the weight

differences between a solid and a hollow spar
are hardly significant.

The other advantage of the hollow, built spar is

that it can be made from easily available timber
sizes, and with a minimum of waste.

Solid/Grown Spars

The simplest, easiest and least wasteful spars are produced from ‘grown’ timbers.

I theory it should be possible to acquire a trunk which has the length and taper
needed for your spar.

In practice you will have to do some shaping, tapering and rounding.

While traditionally masts and spars were spherical, they don’t have to be.

However, in my opinion a spherical mast will produce the least turbulence to the air
passing over the rig.

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It is possible to make a spherical spar from one piece of square cross-section timber.

However, it will be much easier to source timers of smaller cross-section and then
build the spar up from them.

And the advantage is that the grain can then be arranged in a radial fashion.

Building a spar from separate parts does require very careful attention to the gluing
surfaces, they must be closely mating and the actual gluing must be precise.

If you are confident in your carpentry and gluing skills, short lengths can be
scarffed to produce the required length.

Scarf joints are best at least ten times the thickness of the piece and when the
various pieces are assembled the joints should be staggered.

And remember to never ever cut a piece of wood to its exact length until you
absolutely have to.

Tapering

First determine the required diameter of your spar and then where you want it to
taper and by how much.

This will depend on the design of you rig.

You may want the spar to have no taper for some of its length/height, to just above
the partners, then have a slight taper, perhaps as far as the spreaders, then a bit
more of a taper up to the truck.

Always best to start with the wood a little wider, thicker, and longer than the finished
dimensions.

Plane one surface flat and level with your longest plane, preferably a jointer.

Then mark the center line on this planed face.

Use a string stretched between tacks in the middle of each end, use this to make
several center marks on the timber.

Then join the marks using a long, straight batten.

Repeat on the opposite face.

Now use the centreline as the datum from which to mark the width of your mast at
intervals along its length.

Then back to the batten to connect these marks.

You can now cut the outline of your mast to this drawn profile but cut it oversized as
you still need to plane the timer square.

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Now plane these two sawn, tapered faces flat and square to the original planed
surface.

Repeat the steps for marking the center line and profile on these two new faces.

Cut this outline and plane these sides flat and square to their adjacent sides.

You now have a spar tapered to your requirement but it is still square in cross-
section.

Now you need to start rounding the square.

Rounding the Square

So now you’ve got a nicely tapered, planed but square, four sided spar.

Next job is to plane off the four corners to give you an eight sided spar.

Then plane off those eight corners to give you a sixteen sided spar, which can then
easily be rounded using sandpaper.

But before you start taking off the corners you need to mark the depth of the bevels.

The simple way is to draw a circle on the face of the timber with a compass.

The center of the circle will be on the centreline and the edge of the circle right on
the edge of the face.

Then draw a line from the center of the circle, at 45 degree to the centreline and
mark where it crosses the circle.

This mark is the edge of the bevel.

Do this for every transition point and as many points in between as possible, the
more the merrier and do it foe both sides of the circle.

These marks can then be joined using your batten.

One you have planed the spar down to eight sides you can use the same method to
mark it up for reducing it to sixteen sides.

But now the line from the center of the circle to the circumference needs to be 67 ½
degrees.

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Now unless you are building a massive spar getting from 16 sides to 32 sides using
the above measuring technique is going to
become fiddly.

At this stage it is quicker to use your eye and

your judgment to plane off the remaining
corners.

Then the final rounding can be done by

sanding.

Start with 60 or 80 grit paper for the initial

shaping, then work the grits for finishing.

Use long strips of sandpaper wrapped around

the spar and pull it backwards and forwards in a
long, spiralling motion.

Occasionally sand along the length of the mast

to help fair out any uneven spots.

Here is an easy way to mark out a tapered octagon using only one setting of your
compass.

Built Mast

Building a spar is obviously much more difficult than simply shaping a solid pole.

However, if a pole of the required dimensions is not

available building the spar might be the only option.

Built spars can be either solid or hollow.

But if you are building one it is relatively simple to

make it hollow and thus save weight aloft and create
a central channel for masthead wiring.

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And several configurations which attempt to reduce

wastage and at the same time produce large gluing
surfaces.

Unfortunately while they will produce superb, strong

masts they call
for increasingly
complex
carpentry.

The ‘Birdsmouth’ technique developed by Noble-

Masts in Bristol UK is perhaps one of the most
successful of these techniques.

However, it is
a technique
which really
requires access to woodworking machinery, such
as profiling and planing machines.

Rigging
Setting up your standing rigging can be greatly simplified by using ‘Spectra’.

‘Spectra’ is virtually stretch free and can be tied off without much weakening.

It offers a real alternative to expensive swaged fittings, can be easily maintained and
it is corrosion-free.

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Notes on Sail Cloth

Traditionally sail cloth was made from flax, hemp or cotton canvas.

While cotton sailcloth is still available, most modern sails are made using modern
synthetic materials.

These range from cheap and cheerful nylon and polyester to the expensive hi-tec
carbon fibres.

For anyone thinking of making their own sail, especially if it is a small sail and they
are new to the process, they can easily and cheaply try out their ideas and make
mock-up sails from the cheapest of materials.

Polly tarp is a cheap, cheerful and relatively easy material to test out your ideas on.

My first attempt at sail making was a polly-tarp sprit sail for a dinghy and it survived
for a whole season before it began to fray and degrade due to UV light.

Nylon, while it is cheap, light and strong, is normally only used for spinnakers and
cruising chutes because it does tend to stretch and is susceptible to UV degradation.

But by far the most commonly used material for leisure boating sails are the various
types of Woven Polyester.

Polyethylene terephthalate, commonly known as Dacron is the most popular type of

sail cloth for the average leisure boater due to its durability at a reasonable price.

Polyester sail cloth fabrics are sold under various trade names such as Terylene,
Tetoron, Trevira, Diolen as well as Dacron.

The woven sail cloth is usually treated with a resin filler, which stiffens the cloth helps
reduce stretch and makes it less porous.

However, this stiffness and slipperiness does making it difficult to handle.

For small sails, a cloth with a minimal amount of resin filler will be softer, easier to
work on and easier to handle when hoisted.

Polyesters can be either Woven fabrics or laminated fabrics.

Laminated fabrics have been developed to retain their shape for longer but they are
considerably more expensive than the woven variety and the process of sail making
is more complicated.

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Laminated fabrics are strong, light and will retain their shape for much longer, but at
a price.

Laminates as the name suggests are made by gluing together numerous layers of
scrim, extruded plastic and woven 'taffeta', all of which has to be paid for.

The other 'price' is the care you must take when handling them.

They tend to be stiff and susceptible to damage from flogging, chaff and careless
folding.

They also require a great deal of expertise when building the sail.

Weights, Weaves and Fillers

Weight is the usual method of classifying cloth.

There seem to be several ways in which this weight is measured.

It can be the weight in ounces per square yard or ounces per linear yard in which
case it will depend on the standard with of the weave.

Or it can be in kilograms and meters.

So at best it is only an indication of the strength and thickness a given cloth.

There are two methods for weaving sailcloth, either balanced or unbalanced.

In balanced cloth, the warp (the lengthwise yarns) and the fill (the crosswise yarns)
are of the same weight.

With unbalanced cloth one of the yarns will be heavier to provide greater strength in
one direction.

Most modern sail cloth has the heavier yarn in the fill (across the material).

Most new sailcloth also has a 'filler' between the yarns.

These fillers help to reduce stretch by bridging the gaps between the yarns.

The cloth is treated with a 'resin' then passed through rollers so the heat and
pressure sets the filler between the fibres.

The fillers are also what make the sail cloth feel stiff and crinkly and slippery.

Unfortunately these fillers will, over time and with rough handling, break down.

Caring for Your Sails

A well-made Dacron sail should last for years and years if it is looked after.

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Over time it will stretch and become a bit baggy but while it might loose its efficiency,
it will still be useable.

The two main causes of wear are flogging which damages the filler and UV light
which damages the yarns.

Keep both to a minimum.

Make stowing you sails part of the tying up/anchoring process, something you do
before taking off your sailing gear and relaxing with that coffee, or something
stronger.

It only takes a few minutes to flake and cover a mainsail and while you are doing it
check for and make note of any damage that should be repaired before hoisting it
again.

If you have roller furling headsails make sure that the UV strip is covering the
sailcloth.

It's all down to basic seamanship, look after your boat and her gear and she will look
after you.

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Life jackets, Personal Flotation Devices

Life jackets, personal flotation devices, PFDs and or life vests are designed to give
you sufficient buoyancy to help you stay afloat.

The most important advice regarding PFDs is simply "Wear One".

Children should always wear them, your child is far too precious to take chances
with.

How to Choose

It is worth giving some thought to what kind of life jacket is best for you, your
family/crew and the kind of boating you do.

There are laws, regulations and recommends and there are PFDs to suit every
occasion, unfortunately many of us encounter several of these occasions in the
course of our normal boating activities.

Few of us will have several PFDs, one for every occasion and even if we did,
remember to wear the appropriate one for each situation.

Unfortunately there isn’t one type of lifejacket that will fit every situation for everyone.

So, there are some hard choices to make.

A PFD that inflates automatically when submerged is perfect for a small child or
someone who is unconscious but most people find it difficult to swim in an inflated
lifejacket and very difficult to clamber aboard a boat while it is inflated.

Most lifejackets are designed to keep you face upward with your head clear of waves
and keep you afloat until rescue comes.

However, if you are conscious, and a reasonably good swimmer, you can partially
deflate the lifejacket so that you can turn onto your stomach and use your arms to
swim, after a fashion.

But don’t forget that if the water is cold hypothermia will very quickly start affecting
your control of your fingers, arms and legs.

Types of Inflation Mechanisms

Manually inflated lifejackets are operated by pulling a string, which pushes a firing
pin into the CO2 canister, inflating the lifejacket.

Automatic and hydrostatic lifejackets both have a manual pull string as back up.

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Automatically inflated lifejackets rely on a small pellet or bobbin, which holds back a
powerful spring.

When the pellet makes contact with water it dissolves very rapidly, releasing the
spring, which pushes a firing pin into the gas canister.

Hydrostatic or ‘Hammar’ action lifejackets work the same way, but the pellet is
protected by a case that only lets water in once it is a few centimetres below the
surface, it won’t fire until fully submerged.

PFDs for Children

Infants and small children are hard to keep floating in a face-up position, and
sometimes protest when wearing a PFD.

As kids get older and more water-savvy they become right at home onboard,
because there are many choices for well-fitting PFDs that provide stability and
buoyancy.

Anyone who has had to pull a child out of the water will appreciate behind-the-head
flotation collars with a grab strap, which should be standard, along with crotch straps,
on vests for smaller kids.

It is a good idea to test the life jacket on your child in a safe environment, such as a
pool to familiarize yourself and your child with the PFD’s characteristics.

PFDs for Adults

Near-shore Vests
This type is recommended for powerboats or sailboats in relatively calm, warm
water, where comfort and freedom of movement are important.

The choices are many, since this is the most popular type of boating, but demands
are not very rigorous.

Owners of small powerboats often choose belted vests, which can be adjusted for a
comfortable fit depending on the conditions, while sailors will select a more flexible
vest or an inflatable.

Small boat sailing requires freedom of movement and flexibility, yet a good PFD has
to fit snugly and hug the upper body.

A good, snug fit is important to prevent the vest to "riding up" when in the water.

For anglers there are ‘fishing vests’ which have pockets that can hold lure boxes,
and other fishing tools.

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Flotation Aids

These offer freedom of movement and the most comfort for continuous wear but are
only suitable for situations where a quick rescue is certain and the wearer remains
conscious.

Throwable Devices

Cushions or ring buoys are designed to be thrown to someone in trouble and provide
backup to a PFD.

They are not for non-swimmers, rough waters or the unconscious.

Sizing
Sizes can vary by PFD brand and model, so check to find the right size for you.

Children’s sizes are usually based on their weight.

Adult’s sizes are based on chest size.

Women's PFDs may offer a better fit thanks to princess seams, contoured cups, etc.

A PFD should be snug and fit like a glove, yet allow you to move freely and not chafe
while paddling and playing.

Fitting

• Loosen all the straps and then put the PFD on.
• Start at the waist and tighten all the straps.
• If it has shoulder straps, tighten them last.
• It should feel snug but not uncomfortable.
• Next, have someone pull up on the PFD shoulders, if it moves up past your
nose or head, try tightening the straps, if it still moves up, the PFD is too
large.
• Check your movements to make sure it is comfortable and will not chafe.
• If possible, test your PFD in a pool or shallow water to see how it works, it
should not ride up or slip over your chin while floating.

Life Jacket Care

• Don't use a PFD as a cushion, kneeling pad or boat bumper. It will lose
buoyancy.
• Do not put heavy items in the pockets.
• Be careful to not put objects in the pockets that could puncture.
• Don't leave the PFD lying in the sunshine for long periods.
• Rinse with fresh water after use, especially after being in salt water.

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• Drip-dry before storing.

• Don't use harsh detergents or dry clean a PFD.
• Drying it in a dryer or direct heat can destroy its buoyancy.
• Don't store it in sunlight—UV rays can damage the fabric.
• Store in a cool, dry, dark place where there is good ventilation.

Every Month

Check the gas cylinder is tightly screwed in, the CO2 cylinders can work loose.

Every 3 Months

Check the gas cylinder for corrosion, rusty cylinders should be replaced.

Check the webbing and the stitching that holds the webbing together.

Check zips, buckles and other fastenings.

Every 6 Months

Check for leaks, inflate the life jacket manually with a hand pump (use a hand pump
to prevent moisture build-up inside the lifejacket).

Leave it inflated for 24 hours to ensure there are no leaks or damage.

Repack the life jacket according to the manufacturer's folding instructions.

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Trailer Boat Launching and Recovery

Launching and recovering using a boat trailer can be a stressful experience.

However, with a little bit of practice and careful preparation anyone can get it right.

Preparation can be as simple as going through a check list to make sure nothing is
left undone.

But, unless you are a truck driver, reversing a trailer will need a bit of practice before
venturing on to the ramp.

Check out the Slipway.

One of the joys of having a trailer-boat is being able to explore new cruising areas.

However it is worth doing a little research before setting off.

Make sure that there is a suitable slipway at your destination.

Will it be suitable for your boat, your car and your boat trailer? Some slipways are
just too slippery and steep to risk taking a car onto.

And check the tides, make sure that you know when you can launch and recover.
There are many slipways which can only be used at certain states of tide.

Is it a free slip or will there be a charge for using it and if so who and where do you
have to pay?

And is there adequate, secure parking for your car and boat trailer while you are out
on the water? It will definitely spoil you trip if you return to find you trailer has
disappeared.

Having arrived, it's a good idea to have a good look around before driving on to the
ramp.

This will give the trailer's wheel bearings time to cool down before plunging them into
that cold water.

If you have driven any distance those bearings will have become quite hot, if they
are submerged straight away the rapid cooling will suck in water regardless of how
well they have been greased.

Use this cooling off time to plan your launch and check out the slipway.

Check if it's slippery or muddy.

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Are there any potholes, rocks or obstructions under the water?

Is there a suitable place for the crew/passengers to board once the boat is in the
water?

Preparing the Boat.

Try not to spoil you day by forgetting something simple.

It's easy done, yea I've been there. I'm guilty of having launched a boat without
securing the bow line, then watching from the shore as she drifted away. Fortunately
that day there was an onshore breeze and just as important, no one watching.

One of the advantages of trailer boating is that much of the preparation can be done
before you even leave home.

However the most important preparation come when you have reached the launch
site but before you venture on to the ramp.

First remove any covers, safety straps and the trailer board.

You can then get all your gear into the boat ready to go to sea.

Check that you've got enough life-jackets on board and the radio and GPS are on
board and working.

If using an outboard take it off the tilt, and put the keys in the ignition so you know
where they are.

Check the fuel and oil if necessary and prime the fuel pump.

Oh, and don't forget that bow line so she doesn't float away without you.

Reversing the Trailer.

Reversing a boat trailer is something which does not come naturally to most folk.

Most slipways are relatively narrow and often have drop offs at the sides.

So, if you have never done it before try it out on the level first, well away from
spectators and practice until you feel confident.

Some slips get very busy especially at weekends.

Don't worry about the spectators, take your time and don't rush it, that's when
mistakes are most likely to be made.

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It there is a queue of boaters behind its better to let them through, and watch how
they do it, you can pick up some good tips that way.

And don't be afraid to admit that it's your first time, most boaters are great people
and you'll find they will pitch in to help and advise you.

If you have any worries about the ramp being slippery you can use a rope between
the car and boat trailer, so the boat and trailer go down the ramp while the car stays
on the level.

You'll need some helpers for this, someone driving, someone steering the trailer and
someone to relay instructions.

And be careful when unhitching the boat trailer, chock the wheels so she won't run
away whilst you get the rope on.

Some slips may even have a winch that can be used for launching and retrieval.

If you do intend using the winch check that the cable is in good condition and that the
brake works.

I lost 75% of the skin from the palms of my hands once.

I was using a winch to launch my little trailer sailer when the brake slipped.

I foolishly grabbed at the rope as she shot off down the slip, only for a split second
but it was enough.

The boat and trailer were ok, they just hit the water rather fast but I had very sore
hands for a long time.

Ready to launch.
So, you've managed to reverse down the ramp, keep going until transom is in the
water, then you can check if your engine will start.

Better to check it at this stage then if there are any problems you can easily pull her
out.

Having checked the engine switch off and if it is an outboard pull it back up, just in
case there are any obstructions in the water which could damage the prop.

The next job is to get her off the trailer.

It is difficult to generalize here as there are so many different boat and boat trailer
types.

But whatever types don't forget the painter (bow line).

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Check for any cross currents running past the slip.

And make sure the boat is not still strapped down onto the trailer.

With a roller trailer you should be able to roll her off into the water without
submerging the wheel bearings.

Use the trailer winch to control the boat's slide as you pus her off.

Watch out for that winch handle, if it starts to spin don't try to grab it.

If your trailer doesn't have rollers it will need to submerge sufficiently to allow the
boat to float off.

I this case you may need to use a rope so the boat trailer can go far enough in
without driving the car into the water.

Recovery.
It is very easy to spoil a great day out by screwing up the recovery of your boat.

Ideally you will need someone ashore who can reverse the car and boat trailer down
the slip and someone on the boat who is able to control her.

And a two way radio is an ideal way for both parties to keep in contact.

Try to time your recovery for slack tide.

If you do have a cross current or tide it is best to easiest to take the boat upstream of
the slip.

Line her up with the bank and allow her to drift down towards the boat trailer keeping
her in line with the trailer.

Alternatively have someone control the angle of the boat with stern and bow lines.

Allowing her to drift out of line could result in a lot of messing about and probably
nasty scratches on the hull.

Getting it wrong however, will entertain any onlookers, and there are sure to be
plenty of spectators around if you cock up.

With a roller style boat trailer, reverse it in until the wheel hubs are just clear of the
water, then drive the boat slowly up to the trailer, clip the trailer winch strop onto the
boat, turn the engine off and winch the boat onto the trailer.

If your trailer is the type you need to float onto, then it will need to be pushed in
deeper, on the end of a rope.

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To assist in location, it will help to have some uprights on the trailer as markers,
especially if the water is murky.

Bring the boat slowly over the trailer.

As soon as you are sure she in position over the trailer you will need to keep her
there as the trailer is slowly pulled in.

When the boat begins to engage with the trailer attach the winch and a safety line.

Make sure she is safely attached before pulling her up the ramp.

Once on the level, away from the ramp you can start to get your boat and boat trailer
ready for the road.

With a bit of practice and careful preparation launching and recovering your trailer-
boat will become easier and less stressful.

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Appendix

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Index

amine blush · 36
applying tape to the seams · 34
Ash · 25
Aux Stem · 58

beam · 9
bedlogs · 39, 63, 64, 65, 89, 90, 91, 98
Bisphenol A · 34
block plane · 69, 88
blush · 32
Boat Builder's Handbook · 12
boat trailer · 141, 142, 143, 144, 145
boom · 43, 44, 45, 78, 110, 111, 114, 115
boom crutch · 78, 114
Brass screws · 18
brushes · 34, 121
building form · 39, 47, 52, 53, 61, 66, 67, 76
Building Form · 61, 64, 66
bulkhead · 39, 77
bulkheads · 40, 49, 76, 77
butt blocks · 37, 72, 73
butt joint · 37, 72, 73

carline · 79, 87, 100, 101

carline blocks · 87
carlines · 78, 79
cedar · 25
centerboard · 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 95, 103, 115
centerboard case · 89, 90, 91
Centerboard Hanger. · 94
centreboard · 9, 41, 60, 63
chain plates · 44,
45, 96, 100, 101
chine · 39, 50, 67, 68, 69, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 96
Chopped glass · 33
clamp · 39, 49, 50, 64, 67, 68, 69, 71, 72, 73, 79, 89, 90, 96, 100, 101, 102, 111

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clamps · 39, 44, 47, 67, 68, 69, 76, 77, 79, 90, 103, 111
Clamps · 13
cleats · 126
coaming · 39, 77, 87, 88, 102, 103
combination bits · 21
countersink · 13, 21, 67, 72,75, 89
Crescent · 9, 13, 38, 78, 100, 115
cross stringer · 39, 67
cure time · 36
Cypress · 26

deck · 126, 127

deck batten · 39, 84, 100
deck battens · 85, 101
Deck battens · 84
deck beams · 39, 78, 79, 83, 86

electrolytic corosion · 17
Elm · 26
end posts · 39, 89, 90, 91
environmental · 22, 23, 25, 32, 34
epoxy · 10, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 42, 50, 65, 68, 69, 72, 74, 75, 76, 90, 100, 101, 110,
111, 124
Epoxy · 31, 34, 42
epoxy resins · 31
Exterior Plywood · 29

fairing · 69
faring · 34
fiberglass cloth · 33
filler · 31, 42
filler blocks · 99
fir · 13, 38
Fir · 26, 40
floor boards · 98, 99, 100
flotation chamber · 77, 78

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flotation chambers · 9, 77
Frame 1 · 51
Frame 2 · 52
Frame 3 · 53
Frame 4 · 54
Frame 5 · 55
Frame 6 · 56
Frame 7 · 57
frames · 16, 39, 47, 49, 50, 60, 61, 64, 66, 67, 68, 69, 71, 72, 73, 76, 77, 78, 79, 82, 91, 99,
101, 125

G cramps · 14
Gaboon · 30
galvanic corrosion · 17
glass cloth · 34
gussets · 49, 50, 61, 76, 99

hanger · 93, 94, 95

hardener · 32
hardwood · 15, 20, 24, 126, 127
hold-down cleats · 100

Iroko · 26

keel · 50, 60, 66, 67, 68, 69, 73, 74, 77, 82, 90, 91, 129
keelson · 39, 60, 68, 73, 74

lapstrake cramps · 15
Larch · 26
Launching · 141
limber holes · 69
lofting · 16
longitudinal stringer · 67

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mahogany · 27
Mahogany · 27, 30
marine grade · 28
Marine Grade Plywood · 29
marking gage · 48, 49
masking tape · 122, 125
Masonite · 102
mast · 43, 44, 45, 81, 82, 83, 96, 101, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132
mast partner · 43, 83
mast step · 43, 81, 82, 113
Meranti · 30
micro balloons · 33

non-slip · 125

Oak · 27
Okume · 30

paint · 17, 18, 19, 20, 31, 35, 119, 122, 123, 124, 125
painter · 144
pilot hole · 18, 20
Pine · 24, 27
plywood · 9, 10, 14, 16, 27, 28, 29, 37, 40, 47, 49, 57, 59, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77, 89, 96, 99, 100
Polyester · 31
Popular Mechanics · 11, 12
Popular Science · 11, 12
power driver · 19
primer · 123

rabbets · 64,89
rasp · 69, 88, 126
recovery · 144
resin · 32

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Roller and Tip · 124

rub rail · 39, 104
rubbing strips · 74
rudder · 40, 41, 105, 106, 109, 115

sail track · 44, 45, 112

sander · 122
screws · 20
sheave · 44, 113
sheer clamp · 79
silicon bronze · 17
Sitka Spruce · 27
slipway · 141
softwood · 20,24, 29
Spanish windlass · 13
spline' · 13
spring loaded cramps · 14
stainless steel · 18
stainless steel screws · 18
steam bending · 24
stem · 38, 40, 58, 59, 66, 67, 68, 69, 71, 72, 74, 75, 84
Stem · 16, 58

tang · 113
tapered drill bits · 13
Teak · 27
thickened epoxy · 34
thickeners · 33
tiller · 39, 105,
108, 109
timber · 16, 20, 22, 23, 24, 25, 28, 38
transom · 39, 47, 57, 66, 67, 68, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 81, 86, 100, 101, 143
Transom · 40, 57, 81
transom knee · 81
Tung Oil · 121
turnbuckles · 44, 115

UV · 31, 32, 119, 120, 121, 124, 134, 136

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UV blockers · 120
UV light · 32

Varnish · 120, 125

waterproof glues · 42
wood · 12, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31, 32, 35, 126, 127
wood screw · 17
Wood Stains · 124
Wringing · 19

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