eyewitness travel

USA
eyewitness travel

USA
 MANAGING EDITOR Aruna Ghose
ART EDITOR Benu Joshi
PROJECT EDITOR Vandana Mohindra
EDITORS Kajori Aikat, Rimli Borooah,
Nandini Mehta, Manjari Rathi
DESIGNERS Pallavi Narain, Supriya Sahai, Priyanka Thakur Bronze bull, by artist Arturo Di Modica, near
SENIOR CARTOGRAPHER Uma Bhattacharya the US Custom House, New York City
CARTOGRAPHER Alok Pathak
PICTURE RESEARCHER Taiyaba Khatoon
ADDITIONAL PICTURE RESEARCH Kiran K. Mohan
DTP COORDINATOR Shailesh Sharma
DTP DESIGNER Vinod Harish
Contents
US EDITOR Mary Sutherland
How to Use this Guide 6
MAIN CONTRIBUTORS
Jackie Finch, Andrew Hempstead, Jamie Jensen, Nancy Mikula, Joanne Miller, Visiting the
Eric Peterson, Kevin Roe, Kap Stann USA
MAIN PHOTOGRAPHERS Discovering the USA 10
Andy Holligan, Jon Spaull, Peter Wilson
Putting the USA
MAIN ILLUSTRATORS on the Map 18
Arun P, Gautam Trivedi

Printed and bound in China Practical & Travel

First American Edition, 2004
Information 20
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
USA at a
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Glance
USA Through the Year 38
Reprinted with revisions 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2015, 2017

Copyright © 2004, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London National Parks 44

A Penguin Random House Company
Great American Cities 48
All right reserved. Without limiting the rights reserved under copyright reserved
above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into
a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, Best Scenic Routes 50
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written
permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
The History of
A cataloging-in-publication record for this book is available from the
the USA 52
Library of Congress.
ISSN 5668-5834 New York City &
ISBN 978-1-46545-983-1
the Mid-Atlantic
Region
New York City 74
New York State 100
New Jersey 106
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Philadelphia, PA 108
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, Pennsylvania 116
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and New England
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Boston 138
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email [email protected] Massachusetts 156
Rhode Island 160
Front cover main image: Rock formations with a view towards La Sal Mountains, Utah
Beautiful mountain terrain of Yosemite National Park, California
 Connecticut 164 The Deep
South
Vermont 170
New Orleans 342
New Hampshire 174
Louisiana 354
Maine 178
Arkansas 358
Washington, DC & Mississippi 360
the Capital
Alabama 364
Region
Washington, DC 200 The Great View of Dallas from the Reunion Tower
Observation area
Virginia 216 Lakes
Chicago 384
West Virginia 224 Texas
Illinois 396 Texas 468
Maryland 226
Indiana 398
Delaware 230 The Southwest
Ohio 402
The Southeast Nevada 502
Michigan 406
North Carolina 250 Utah 510
Wisconsin 410
South Carolina 254 Arizona 520
Minnesota 414
Georgia 258 New Mexico 538
Tennessee 264 The Great Plains The Rockies
North Dakota 438
Kentucky 270 Idaho 566
South Dakota 440
Florida Montana 570
Nebraska 444
Miami 290 Wyoming 574
Iowa 448
Colorado 580
Missouri 450
Kansas 454
The Pacific
Northwest
Oklahoma 456
Washington 604
Oregon 618

California
Los Angeles 646
San Francisco 682

Alaska &
Hawai’i
Alaska 718
Hawai’i 730
General Index 748
Massachusetts State House, Boston, the
archetype of American government buildings
Acknowledgments 779
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you to get the most from one to seven states. The chapter on each
your visit to the United States. Visiting the region starts with a historical portrait and
USA maps the country and gives tips on a map of the area. The main sightseeing
practical considerations and travel. USA at section then follows and includes maps
a Glance gives an overview of some of of the major cities. For each region there is
the main attractions and a brief history a section of practical and travel information,
of the country. The book is divided into followed by listings of recommended hotels
14 regional sections, each covering from and restaurants.

130  NEW ENGLAND INTRODUCING NEW ENGLAND  131

USA MAP New England at a Glance

Tucked away in the northeasternmost corner of the United

The colored areas shown on the

States, the six states of New England are rich in history and
Fort Kent
culture as well as in natural beauty. Many of the country’s
earliest settlements were established here, as were the first
centers of higher education. The region therefore abounds

map on the inside front cover indi- in historic buildings, as well as in superb museums and
prestigious universities. New England’s topography includes
large tracts of farmland, dense woodlands, pristine lakes,
Presque Isle

cate the 14 regional chapters in this

and sweeping coastlines, which are rocky and jagged Locator Map
in some areas and serene and sandy in others. It is also
home to the rugged peaks of the White, Green, and Vermont is an enclave of
unspoiled wilderness. Vermont

guide. For each region there is an

Appalachian Mountains.
is at its scenic best in fall, when
the Green Mountain State
changes its verdant green cloak
for a rich palette of yellow,

index of the practical and listings

orange, and red.

MAINE Calais
(See pp178–81)

pages at the end of the chapter. Skowhegan

Bangor

Ellsworth

Canterbury Shaker Village (see p176), located in New

Hampshire, was founded in 1792. This is one of the many

1
picturesque historic villages that are scattered around the Augusta
Maine has around 3,500 miles

At a Glance
rolling farmlands of the state. Burlington Bretton
Woods (6,000 km) of inlets, bays, and
0 kilometers 50 harbors. Dotted along the coast
VERMONT 0 miles 50
are a string of lighthouses that
have guided mariners to safety

The map here highlights the

(See pp170–73)
NEW for centuries.
Connecticut
is quintessential HAMPSHIRE
(See pp174–77) Portland
New England.
Steepled churches

different states in each section around immaculate

village greens are
typical features
of its serene
Rutland

Concord
Boston (see pp138–55)
is New England’s largest

as well as the most interesting

and most vibrant city,
landscape. Portsmouth
and the capital of
Manchester
Massachusetts. Here,
Bennington historic buildings and

cities, towns, and regions.

gleaming modern
structures can be found
Cambridge cheek by jowl.
MASSACHUSETTS
(See pp138–59) Boston

Springfield
Plymouth

Providence
RHODE
Hartford
INTRODUCING NEW ENGLAND  133 ISLAND
(See pp160–63)
CONNECTICUT Newport
(See pp164–67)
Cape Cod (see p158–9) in

NEW ENGLAND Block Island (see p163) in Rhode Island is one of the Massachusetts is best
New Haven
many tranquil havens situated along the pristine known for its miles of wide,
shoreline of this tiny state. Great Salt Pond has three sandy beaches, whale-
marinas and is an excellent spot for kayaking and fishing. watching junkets, and
For many people, New England is white-steepled churches, craggy coastlines, Stamford quaint Colonial villages.
historic villages, and timeless landscapes of tranquil farmlands
Portland Head Lighthouse in and country
Cape Elizabeth, Fort Williams Park, Maine For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
roads, with the sophisticated city of Boston as its cultural and commercial hub.
Many also regard it as the cradle of American civilization, for New England’s
early history is the history of the United States itself.

From the beginning, the region has been Island, the beautiful surburban communities
shaped by both geography and climate. of Connecticut, and the self-assured
Early explorers charted its coastline, and sophistication of Boston.
communities soon sprang up by the coast,
where goods and people could be ferried
more easily from the Old World to the
History
New England’s historical connections are
Each region chapter has color-
New. Early commerce depended heavily
on the ocean, from shipping and whaling
far richer than any other area in America,
for it was here that much of the drama of
coded thumb tabs.
to fishing and boat-building. forming a new country was played out.
The harsh, unpredictable climate, poor In 1614, the English explorer John Smith
soil, hilly terrain, and dense virgin forests sailed along the coast of Massachusetts,

2
also helped shape the character of its named it New England, and declared that
people. To survive in this area required
toughness, ingenuity, and a spirit of
it was the best place to set up a new
colony. On December 26, 1620, a group Introduction to a Region
independence – all traits that became of 102 Puritans, who had left England to
ingrained in the New England psyche. The
slogan “Live free or die” on New Hampshire
escape religious persecution, landed at
Plymouth Rock after a grueling 66-day
This section gives the reader an
insight into the region’s geography,
license plates is a reminder that the same voyage on the Mayflower and established
spirit lives on. Indeed, New England today one of America’s first permanent English
is as much a state of mind as it is a physical settlements. Soon, large settlements had

historical background, politics, and

space. Despite this, New England is also also grown up in Boston, Rhode Island,
home to the opulence of Newport, Rhode Connecticut, New Hampshire, and Maine.

the character of the people. A chart

lists the key dates and events in the
region’s history.

136  NEW ENGLAND INTRODUCING NEW ENGLAND  137

Stonington, a scenic town on Deer Isle, Penobscot Bay, Maine

Exploring New England

A farm surrounded by fall foliage in picturesque Woodstock, Vermont
Mileage Chart
Fort Kent
The six states of New England offer a diverse Boston, MA
array of attractions. Vermont is famous for 1 40
Plymouth, MA 10 = Distance in miles
Key 64
10 = Distance in kilometers
its ski resorts and rolling farmland, New 51 54
Highway Providence, RI
Hampshire for its dense forests and spectacular Presque 82 87
Isle
passes through the White Mountains, and Major road Ashland 101 134 86
163 216 Hartford, CT
138
Maine for its rugged coastline and vast tracts Railroad

3
ALLAGASH AROOSTOOK 137 162 103 39
State border 220 261 166 63 New Haven, CT
of wilderness. Farther south, Massachusetts WILDERNESS STATE

Regional Map
WATERWAY PARK 216 255 276 235 273
is rich in history, culture, and scenic beaches, International border Burlington, VT
348 410 444 378 439
Connecticut in picture-postcard villages, BAXTER 68 106 127 157 193 151
STATE 109 171 204 253 311 243 Concord, NH
and Rhode Island in opulent mansions. The PARK

For easy reference, sights in each

107 147 156 203 239 208 96
Portland, ME
entire New England region boasts a dazzling CANADA 172 237 251 327 384 335 154
display of fall foliage. 171 211 237 264 302 151 158 73
Quebec 1 275 340 381 425 486 243 254 117 Bethel, ME

region are numbered and plotted

95
Moosehead
Lake
C A N A D A 201
M A I N E Calais

Campobello

on a map. The black bullet numbers

Island
Sugarloaf
Montreal Quebec Machias
2 Bangor 1

(eg. 3) also indicate the order in

Lake Derby Line Skowhegan
0 kilometers 50 Memphremagog Ellsworth

0 miles 50 91
ATLANTIC
Acadia Bar Harbor
Lake VERMONT 95 National OCEAN

which the sights are covered in

Champlain Berlin Park
Stowe St. Johnsbury 2 Bethel
Augusta
Burlington Ben & Jerry's Littleton Bretton Woods Busy street of Cape Cod’s Provincetown in the summertime
Ice Cream Factory 202 Penobscot
Shelburne Franconia Notch 495 Bay
Montpelier

the chapter.
7 White North 302 Sights at a Glance
91 Bath
Mountain Conway 1 Boston pp138–55
Middlebury National s Shelburne Museum & Farms
Randolph Forest Portland Massachusetts d Burlington
Lake 202 f Lake Champlain
Woodstock White River 93 Winnipesaukee 2 Salem
Rutland The g Stowe
Junction 3 Lowell
Laconia Kenne- h Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory
Killington Canterbury bunks 4 Concord
91 NEW Shaker Village
H A MP SH IRE Ogunquit 5 Plymouth p157 New Hampshire
Manchester Concord 6 Cape Cod
Bellows Falls j Bretton Woods
7 Portsmouth 7 Sturbridge
k Franconia Notch
Manchester 8 The Berkshires
Green Mtn 3
93 l White Mountain National Forest
National Forest
Brattleboro 495
Gloucester Rhode Island z Lake Winnipesaukee
Bennington Lowell
x Canterbury Shaker Village p176
495
Salem 9 Providence pp160–61
Albany
Greenfield c Concord
Williamstown Leominster Cambridge 0 Newport pp162–3
Concord v Manchester
Pittsfield MASSACHUSETTS BOSTON q South County Beaches
Province- b Portsmouth
Northampton Worcester Quincy town w Block Island
Logan
The
90 International Plymouth Maine
Berkshires Sturbridge 95 Connecticut
Springfield 495 Cape Cod n Portland p178
7 84
44 1
25 Bay Orleans e Hartford pp164–5
91
Providence m The Kennebunks
44 r Litchfield
CON N E CT ICU T 495
, Penobscot Bay
Cape t Connecticut River Valley
Hartford 395 Portsmouth
Cod . Acadia National Park
Litchfield Nantucket y New Haven
Norwich Newport Island / Campobello Island
u Connecticut Coast
! Sugarloaf
6 Connecticut Martha’s
Lake 95 South County
Candlewood River Valley Vineyard
Beaches Vermont @ Bethel
New Haven Block
Connecticut Island i Green Mountain National Forest
7
Coast

Sights at a Glance lists

o Manchester
95
Typical row houses in Boston’s Back Bay as Bridgeport RH OD E
seen from 200 Clarendon Stamford ISLA N D p Killington

New York
a Woodstock

the numbered sights in For keys to symbols see back flap

sequential order.
 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
138  NEW ENGLAND BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS  139

4
Boston
City Map
Greater Boston Chelsea Salem
Chelsea Salem
1
1A 1A
28 28
Boston is located on the northeastern Atlantic 1A 1A
Winthrop
Winthrop

Coast on Massachusetts Bay. Founded in the Cambridge

This plots individual sights within

Cambridge Logan
Logan
Boston Airport
Boston
early 17th century around a large natural harbor 90 90
Airport

at the mouth of the Charles River, the capital of Starbridge

Starbridge Massachusetts
Massachusetts
Massachusetts today covers an area of 49 sq miles 0 meters 250 9 9
Bay Bay

the most important cities. The

93 93
Worcester
Worcester 0 km 5
(127 sq km) and has a population of 630,000. It is 0 yards 250 28 28
203 203 0 miles 5
a major center of American history, culture, and Brookline
Brookline
learning. The central city is focused around the

sights within a city such as Boston

harbor on the Shawmut Peninsula, while Greater Massachusetts State House with its gilded dome, Key
designed by Charles Bulfinch Charlestown
Charlestown
Boston encompasses the surrounding area. Bridge
Bridge
C IARLC ISATL S T
NORTH END END
NORTH
PLAYGROUND
PLAYGROUND Area of main map
NewNew
Charles
Charles ER CHE CH R E R E
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M
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Sights at a Glance

are indicated with clear bullet

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CHARLESBANK
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regional maps.

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9 Theater District j Museum of Fine Arts

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q Post Office Square l Charlestown
COLUMBUS
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DEVONSHIRE
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Visitors’ Checklist gives all the
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B E AB E A Street ST ST

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practical information needed to
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M M M M Baptist Building
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BU
EX

BU

AVENU
AR ART
T ST T ST
M

VID VID R E E TR E E
STR

STR

S T US T U
ETE

LU

PRO PRO AMES ES T

ETE

LU

J JAM Jacob
Jacob
CO
CL AR

CO
CL AR DO N

ST. ST.
BER

BER
EE

EE

Wirth's
Wirth's
R

A R LIN

A R LIN
T

KEL

KEL

Shubert
Shubert
STR

STR

EN
EN DO ST

UE

UE

Theater
Theater
EY

EY

200 200
Clarendon
Clarendon
144   145
G TO

NEW ENGLAND BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

G TO
EET

EET

EN

EN

Getting Around
STR

STR
N ST

ST ST
N

AV

AV
EET

EET

T T
Public transportation in Boston and Cambridge is very good.
ST

ST

N N
O

MASM
SAACSHUC
SA SEHTUTSSETTS
EM

EM

TURN
TPUIRKN
EPIKE
In fact, it is considerably easier to get around by public
ISO

ISO

Massachusetts State House

TR

7 Park Street
TR

transportation than by driving.6 All major attractions in the city VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 9 Theater District
RR

RR

are accessible on its modern subway network, the T, or by bus Church

HA

HA

Map D3. Beacon Hill. Map C4.  Boylston, Tufts

The cornerstone
or taxi. The historic central sections of the city areofalso
the Massachusetts State House
Tel (617) 727-3676. Medical Center.
For keys to symbols see back flap extremely easy to navigate on was foot.laid in 1795 by Paul Revere and Samuel Map D4. 1 Park St. Tel (617) 523-3383.
Open 10am–3:30pm Mon–Fri.  Park St. Open Jul–Aug: 9am–4pm
Adams. Completed in 1798, the Charles Bulfinch- Booking advised. 7 8 Boston’s first theater opened in
Tue–Fri, 9am–3pm Sat; Sep–Jun: call 1793 on Federal Street. Fifty
designed center of state government served as a ∑ sec.state.ma.us/trs
for hours. 7 ∑ parkstreet.org
years later, with patronage from
model for the US Capitol building in Washington Transport
the city’s elite, Boston had
and as an inspiration for many other state capitols.  Park St.
Since its dedication in 1810, become a major tryout town
Later additions were made, but the original the Park Street Church has and boasted several lavish
. Nurses Hall
building remains the archetype of American The statue of the army nurse here was been one of Boston’s most theaters. Many major US
government buildings. Its gilded dome serves as erected in honor of all the nurses who took influential pulpits. In 1829, premieres were held here,
the firebrand crusader for the among them Handel’s Messiah,

Sights at a Glance lists the numbered

the zero-mile marker for Massachusetts. part in the Civil War. The marble hall is lined
with murals depicting important events abolition of slavery, William and Tennessee Williams’
leading up to the American Revolution. Lloyd Garrison, gave his first A Streetcar Named Desire.
abolition speech here; and in Among the grandest theaters

sights within the city. Senate Chamber

1893 the anthem “America the
Beautiful” debuted at Sunday
service in this church. The
are the opulent Emerson
Majestic Theater, decorated
with frescoes and friezes; the
church, with its 217-ft (65-m) 1,650-seat Shubert Theater,
Situated directly beneath
the dome, this chamber steeple was designed by the with its imposing Neo-Classical
features a beautiful English architect Peter Banner, façade; and the Wang Theater,
sunburst ceiling. who actually adapted a design with a glittering seven-
by the earlier English architect, story auditorium.

5
Christopher Wren.
Adjacent to the church, on P Wang Theater

Major Sights Tremont Street, is the mid-

17th-century Old Granary
Burying Ground, which was
once the site of a grain storage
230 Tremont St. Tel (617) 482-9393.
Open phone to check. 7
∑ citicenter.org

Historic buildings are dissected to facility. Among those buried in

this historic cemetery are three
important signatories to the
0 Chinatown
Map D5. Bounded by Kingston,

reveal their interiors, while museums

Declaration of Independence – Kneeland, Washington, & Essex Sts.
Samuel Adams, John Hancock,  Chinatown.
and Robert Treat Paine – as
Main Staircase well as one of the city’s This is the third largest

and galleries have color-coded floor Beautiful stained-glass most famous sons, Paul Revere. Chinatown in the US, after
windows, with the those in San Francisco and
early state seals of Z Old Granary Burying New York. Pagoda-topped
Massachusetts, decorate Ground telephone booths set the tone

plans to help you find the most the main staircase. Tremont St. Open 9am–5pm daily.

8 Downtown
of the neighborhood, which is
full of restaurants, and stores
selling garments and Chinese
medicine. Boston’s Chinese

important exhibits. Entrance

Crossing
Map D4. Washington, Winter, &
Summer Sts.  Downtown Crossing.
colony was fully established
by the turn of the 19th century,
and the area’s population has
since swelled with new
arrivals from Korea, Vietnam,
KEY
This pedestrian shopping and Cambodia.
1 Senate Chamber district features sidewalk
vendors and food carts. The
2 The dome was gilded in 23-carat
gold in 1872.
major department store is
Macy’s, part of a nationwide
3 Hall of Flags chain. Farther down Washington

Stars indicate the features 4 The Great Hall, built in 1990,

is used for state functions and is
topped by a glass dome.
Hall of Flags
Flags carried into battle by
Street is Boston’s jewelry district,
while more unique shops can
be found on the side streets.

that no visitor should miss. . House of Representatives

This elegant oval chamber was built in 1895, but the
5 The Wings, added in 1917,
are thought by many to sit
incongruously with the rest of
regiments from the state of
Massachusetts are displayed
here beneath a stained-glass
The Brattle Book Shop, for
example, was founded in 1825
and stocks more than 250,000
“Sacred Cod” that now hangs over the gallery came the structure. skylight, depicting seals of the rare, used, and out-of-print Street with store and restaurant façades in
to the State House when it first opened in 1798. original 13 colonies. books and magazines. Boston’s Chinatown

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9

158  NEW ENGLAND MASSACHUSETTS  159

6
8 The Berkshires
Detailed Information
“cottage” that multi-millionaire
Joseph Kennedy (1888–1969)
k £ Pittsfield. n 66 Allen St,
bought in 1926, expanding it
Pittsfield, (413) 743-4500.
into a sprawling vacation retreat ∑ berkshires.org

Cities, towns, and other sights

for his nine children and their
families. The John F. Kennedy Wooded hills, green valleys,
Hyannis Museum recalls those rippling rivers, and waterfalls
happy times. After Kennedy’s have long attracted visitors

are described individually. Their

assassination in 1963, a simple to this western corner of
Cape Cod’s Old Harbor Life-Saving Station, built in 1897 memorial was erected in his Massachusetts, which is rich in
honor: a pool and fountain, opportunities for outdoor as
6 Cape Cod summer months, when its and a circular wall bearing Fishing boat moored outside a fishing shack, Martha’s Vineyard well as cultural activity. The area
~ @ 215 Iyannough Rd, Hyannis.
g Ocean St, Hyannis; Railroad Ave,
Woods Hole. n Jct Rtes 132 & 6,
population swells and it is a
leading gay resort. Busy
MacMillan Wharf is the jumping-
off point for whale-watching
Kennedy’s profile.
One of Hyannis’ most popular
forms of transportation is the
Cape Cod Central Railroad,
mesmerizing scenic beauty with P Cape Cod National Seashore
the charms of a beach resort
and abounds in opportunities
Rte 6, Cape Cod. n Salt Pond Visitor
Center, Rte 6, Eastham, (508) 255-3421.
is speckled with scenic small
towns and villages. Pittsfield, in
the shadow of Mount Greylock,
is famous as the home of
entries appear in the same order
as the numbering on the
Hyannis, Rte 3, Plymouth, (508)
362-3225. _ Cape Cod Maritime cruises. Since the early 20th which offers a scenic 2-hour for outdoor activities. Each town Open year-round. & late Jun–early Herman Melville (1819–91),
century, the town has also had round trip to the Cape Cod canal. has its own distinctive atmo- Sep only. ∑ nps.gov/caco where he wrote his masterpiece,
Week (May), Annual Bourne Scallop
Festival (Sep). a bustling artists’ colony, Hiking trails, salt marshes, tidal sphere and architectural style. E John F. Kennedy Moby Dick. Lenox has the grand

regional map at the beginning

counting among its famous pools, and 12 miles (19 km) of Most visitors arrive by ferry at Hyannis Museum estates of Edith Wharton and
More than 13 million people residents the painters Mark beaches attract visitors to the island’s commercial hub, 397 Main St, Hyannis. Tel (508) 970- other prominent personalities.
arrive each summer to enjoy Rothko and Jackson Pollock, Falmouth, with its picturesque Vineyard Haven. On the eastern 3077. Open mid-Apr–May & Nov: Each summer, it also hosts the
the boundless beaches, and the writers Eugene village green. It also has the 3.3- shore is Edgartown, with the 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm Sun; prestigious Tanglewood Musical

of the section.
natural beauty, and quaint O’Neill and Tennessee mile (5-km) Shining Sea Bike gracious 19th-century homes of Jun–Oct: 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon– Festival, featuring performances
Colonial villages of Cape Williams. The work of local Path, with vistas of beach, the town’s wealthy sea captains 5pm Sun. & 7 ∑ jfkhyannis from a wide variety of musical
Cod, and the neighboring artists is also displayed in harbor, and woodland. The path and merchants. The Martha’s museum.org genres. The main street of
islands of Martha’s Vineyard the Provincetown Art leads to the world’s largest Vineyard Museum is housed in E Heritage Museums & Gardens Stockbridge has been immorta-
and Nantucket. A special Association and Museum. independent marine science one of them – the Thomas 67 Grove St, Sandwich. Tel (508) 888- lized in the paintings of one of
attraction for visitors are Chatham, an attractive, research center, the Woods Hole Cooke House (c.1730), filled with 3300. Open mid–Apr–Oct: 10am– America’s most beloved illustrators,
whale-watching cruises, upscale community, offers Oceanographic Institute. family possessions and other 5pm daily. & 7 ∑ heritage Norman Rockwell (1894–1978),
offered from April to mid- fine inns, attractive shops, Sandwich, the oldest town in exhibits. From here, a short ferry museumsandgardens.org who lived here for 25 years. His
October. The Cape, shaped and a popular summer the Cape, is straight off a ride goes to Chappaquiddick E Martha’s Vineyard Museum
works can be seen in the town’s
like an upraised arm bent playhouse. Fishing boats postcard: a church overlooking Island, where, in 1969, a car driven 59 School St, Edgartown. Tel (508) Norman Rockwell Museum.
at the elbow, extends stop and unload their a picturesque pond, fed by a by Senator Edward Kennedy 627-4441. Open mid-May–mid-Oct: Especially attractive to
some 70 miles (113 km) catch at the pier, and the brook that powers the (1932–2009) went off the bridge, 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun. nature lovers is the Mount
into the sea.
Cape Cod National
Seashore, stretching more
Pilgrim surrounding waters offer
Monument good opportunities for
seasonal anglers. The
waterwheel of a Colonial-era
gristmill. The church bell, dating
to 1675, is said to be the oldest
killing a woman passenger.
North of Edgartown is Oak
Bluffs, with its gingerbread
& 7 = ∑ mvmuseum.org

P Nantucket Historical
Washington State Forest and
the nearby Bash Bish State Park. Each entry begins with essential practical
information, including the address and
Association (NHA)
than 40 miles (64 km) along the Railroad Museum, housed in an in the US. The town’s most cottages, while the western E Norman Rockwell Museum
15 Broad St, Nantucket Island. Rte 183. Tel (413) 298-4100.
northernmost section of the 1887 Victorian train station, has unusual attraction is Heritage Shoreline is tranquil and rural
Tel (508) 228-1894. Historic buildings: Open May–Oct: 10am–5pm daily;
Cape, from Provincetown to photos, memorabilia, and Museums & Gardens, a 75-acre with pristine beaches. Open call for hours. & 8 7

telephone number of the local tourist

Chatham, is famous for its vintage railroad cars. (30-ha) garden and museum Nantucket Island, a 14-mile- Nov–Apr: 10am–4pm Mon–Fri,
Whaling Museum only. ∑ nha.org 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed Jan 1,
horseshoe-shaped dunes, white Hyannis, the largest village in housing the eclectic collection (22-km-) long enclave of
sand beaches, salt marshes, Cape Cod, is a busy shopping of the pharmaceutical tycoon tranquillity with only one town, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 8 7 =
∑ nrm.org
glacial cliffs, and woodlands. center and the main Josiah K. Lilly Jr. (1893–1966). remains a largely untamed
Historical structures, such as the transportation hub for the
Old Harbor Life-Saving Station region. It is also famous as the
and the 18th-century Atwood summer home of the country’s
Exhibits include 37 antique
cars, Native American relics, and
a 1912 carousel. The gardens
world of kettle ponds, quiet
beaches, cranberry bogs, and
fields of wild grapes and
7 Sturbridge
Old Sturbridge Village: Rte 20,
information office. Opening times are
given for major sights and museums.
Sturbridge. Tel (508) 347-3362.
Higgins House, are interspersed most celebrated political are famous for their lovely blueberries, punctuated by Open early Apr–late Oct: 9:30am–
among the area’s beautiful dynasty, the Kennedys. The rhododendrons. Just a occasional houses. Nantucket 5pm daily; late Oct–early Apr: call for
natural features. heavily screened Kennedy 45-minute boat ride away from was a prosperous center of the hours. Closed Dec. & 8 7
One of the most popular compound is best seen from the mainland lies Martha’s whaling industry in the early ∑ osv.org
destinations on the Cape is the water aboard a sightseeing Vineyard. This 108-sq mile 1800s, and the mansions of sea
Provincetown. This picturesque cruise. At its center is the (280-sq km) island combines captains and merchants reflect This small town is home to Old
town has a historic past – the those glory days. The Nantucket Sturbridge Village, an open-air
Pilgrims first landed here in Historical Association (NHA) museum in the form of an early
1620 and stayed for five weeks operates 11 historical buildings 19th-century village. At the
before pushing on to the in the town, one of which heart of the museum are about
mainland. The 252-ft (77-m) houses a fascinating Whaling 40 vintage buildings that have
Pilgrim Monument, the tallest Museum. A popular spot, been restored and relocated
granite structure in the US, 8 miles (13 km) from town, from all over New England.
commemorates this event. is Siasconset village, famous They include the Federal-style
Today, Provincetown is for its rose-colored bluffs and1 8 2TowneNHouse,
especially vibrant during the Popular sightseeing trip on the Cape Cod Central Railroad lanes with tiny cottages.
 E W Ea meetinghouse,
NGLAND
a tavern, and a store.
Bash Bish Falls, near Mount Washington
State Forest in the Berkshires
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  183

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9

Practical Information the coast and driving tours

during the fall foliage season.
education programs on the
Appalachian Trail. Miles of quiet
snowmobiling opportunities.
Stowe, located in Vermont,
full schedule of concerts at
Symphony Hall from October
Although particularly popular during summer and fall, Several books list the best back roads in the region are a can claim the title of New to April. The Pops move in for
New England is a four-season vacation destination. The driving tours of the region. cyclist’s paradise. Mountain England’s ski capital. The world- performances in May and June.

7
superb skiing facilities attract tourists during winter, which Yankee Magazine (www. bikers also have plenty to famous Stowe Mountain Theater is alive and well

Practical Information
yankeemagazine.com) details choose from. Some ski areas Resort offers excellent trails across New England’s six
often lasts from mid-November to April. The region offers a recommended routes, let bikers use their lifts and for skiers of all levels. states, but the epicenter of
wide variety of recreational activities within a relatively historic stops, and places to slopes in summer. this dynamic world is, again,
small area. On any weekend, vacationers can hike the White eat and stay. New England’s Green and Boston. The most avant-garde
Entertainment

This section covers subjects

Mountains of New Hampshire, swim at Maine’s Ogunquit White Mountains offer superb contemporary theater found
Beach, and take in the Boston Symphony Orchestra. Outside rock climbing, hang gliding, New England is a traveler’s in Boston is at the American
Safety for Drivers and paragliding sites. dream, as it offers a wide range Repertory Theater (ART).
of Boston, where public transportation is excellent, you
Large areas of New England are Anglers will love New of entertainment. Free concerts
definitely need a car for sightseeing.

such as travel, security, shopping,

wild, so be prepared for any England. Deep-sea fishing is and festivals abound in fall,
eventuality. This is doubly best at Point Judith in Rhode spring, and summer, and there Shopping
true in winter, when sudden Island. Brook trout and bass are is no shortage of bars and New England’s well-known
Tourist Information Natural Hazards blizzards and white-outs plentiful in the inland streams nightclubs in which to slake, factory outlets offer brand

and entertainment. Some State tourism offices are

great sources of information
and are happy to send road
maps, brochures, and listings of
The risks involved in taking
part in outdoor activities can
be minimized with proper
precautions. Be prepared for
caused by blowing snow can
leave motorists stranded. Stock
salt, a snow brush, an ice
scraper, and a small shovel. If
and lakes, especially in Maine.
The state’s latticework of rivers
is ideal for canoeing, kayaking,
and whitewater rafting.
or build, your thirst. Boston’s
Harvard Square is famous for its
street performers who entertain
crowds in summer and fall.
name clothing at huge
discounts. Freeport, Maine
has the famous outdoor
equipment outlet L.L. Bean. The

cities, such as New York, are attractions, accommodations,

and events, free of charge.
Some places also offer
sudden changes in the
weather, especially in higher
elevations. Wear protective
you do get stuck in an out-of-
the-way place, stay inside your
car. Keep the motor running
Penobscot Bay, Maine, and
Newport, Rhode Island, are
both considered sailing meccas.
Mellow jazz lounges and smoky
blues bars attract a devoted
clientele, as do nightclubs.
interconnected Copley Place
and Shops at Prudential Center
are Boston’s leading upscale

covered separately.
discount vouchers for lodgings, gear for adventure sports and for warmth, but open your For those who want something Classical music, theater, and indoor shopping malls. The
restaurants, and entry fees. never try to interfere with window slightly and keep the calmer than the Atlantic Ocean, dance have long been the region is an antique hunter’s
Many towns have a visitors’ wildlife. When hiking, wear tailpipe clear to prevent carbon New England has countless mainstays of the region’s dream, with stores and barns
bureau that offers information insect repellent to avoid monoxide buildup. American lakes, and boats can be rented cultural identity. The larger offering a wide array of objects
on local lodgings, events, tick bites, which can cause Automobile Association (AAA) at many seaside and lakeside towns and cities have good from the past. The Charles Street
and restaurants. Lyme disease. provides roadside assistance. resorts. Whale-watching cruises symphony orchestras, dance, section of Boston’s Beacon Hill
have become a very popular and drama companies. But the is one of the prime antiquing
activity. Take the cruise on a hub of the region’s performing areas. Look for shops run by
Personal Security Getting Around Laws calm day, as choppy water arts is Boston. The Boston New Hampshire craftsmen,
New England’s comparatively Many bus companies serve The legal drinking age in can cause seasickness. Symphony Orchestra (BSO) Vermont-made products, and
low crime rate makes it a safe particular sections of New New England is 21, and young The region’s northernmost and its popular music Maine crafts. Tourists looking
holiday destination. But it is England, making it relatively people can be asked to reaches, with a thick annual doppelgänger, the Boston for gifts with a regional flavor
good to take precautions. Since simple to get from state to produce a proof of age in blanket of snow, offer great Pops, are the city’s cherished should sample the maple

Directory boxes give contact information pickpockets tend to frequent

popular tourist sights, use a
state. In Boston and Cambridge,
it is easier to get around by
order to buy alcohol or enter
a bar. You can lose your driver’s
skiing, skating, and institutions. The BSO performs a syrup and maple sugar candy.

money belt for cash and public transportation than license if caught driving under DIRECTORY
for the services and venues mentioned in documents and keep cameras
out of sight. Avoid wearing
expensive jewelry and leave
by driving. Once outside the
city you will need a car. In fact,
much of New England’s charm
the influence of alcohol or
drugs. Cigarettes can be sold
only to people 18 years of age
Tourist
Information
Fall Foliage
Hotlines
Hiking
Appalachian Trail
Boston Symphony
Orchestra

the text. your valuables in the hotel safe. lies along scenic jaunts down or older. Smoking and drinking 301 Massachusetts Ave,
Connecticut Connecticut Conservancy
in public spaces is illegal. Boston, MA.
∑ ctvisit.com Tel (888) 288-4748. 799 Washington St,
Tel (617) 266-1492.
The Climate of New England Maine
Harpers Ferry, WV 25425-
∑ bso.org
Sports & Outdoor Greater Boston 0807. Tel (304) 535-6331.
New England’s weather can vary greatly from year to year. Tel (800) 777-0317.
Activities ∑ bostonusa.com ∑ appalachiantrail.org
Generally, the short spring is Shopping
Massachusetts
cloudy and wet, with rainy skies With miles of coastline, Maine Skiing
BOSTON Tel (800) 227-6277. Copley Place
and melting snow. Summer can mountain ranges, forests, and ∑ visitmaine.com
be unpredictable, but is generally New Hampshire 100 Huntington Ave,
80/27 rivers, the region has much to Stowe Mountain
dry – July and August are usually Massachusetts Boston, MA. Tel (617) 262-
°F/C
63/17 63/17 offer to sports lovers. The Tel (800) 258-3608. Resort
the sunniest months. Bright fall ∑ massvacation.com 6600. ∑ simon.com
choice of camping areas in 5781 Mountain Rd, Stowe,
days out among the colorful
55/12 Rhode Island
national forests ranges from VT 05672. Tel (800) 253- L.L. Bean
foliage are spectacular – the peak 46/8 New Hampshire Tel (800) 556-2484.
32°F 39/4 36/2 primitive sites to ones with 3000. ∑ stowe.com 95 Main Street, Freeport,

Climate charts are also

fall foliage period usually lasts from ∑ visitnh.gov
°C 20/–7
various facilities. Hiking trails Vermont ME. Tel (877) 755-2326.
mid-September to late October.
17 20 19 16 crisscross almost the entire Rhode Island Tel (800) 837-6668. Entertainment ∑ llbean.com
Snow usually starts in December;
days days days days region, with the most popular ∑ visitrhodeisland. American Repertory
the temperature can dip to 0° F Road Emergency Shops at Prudential

provided for each region. (–18° C) or lower in winter. In

general, it is warmer along the
coast and in the southern section
3.5 2.8 3.3
in in
month Apr Jul Oct
in
3.6
in
Jan
being the New England section
of the Appalachian Trail and
Vermont’s Long Trail. The
com
Vermont
∑ vermontvacation.
American Auto­
mobile Assn. (AAA)
Theater
64 Brattle St, Cambridge,
MA. Tel (617) 547-8300.
Center
800 Boylston St, Boston,
MA. Tel (800) 746-7778.
of New England. Appalachian Trail Conservancy com Tel (800) 222-4357. ∑ amrep.org ∑ prudentialcenter.com
runs various information and
 Visiting
the UsA
Discovering the USA 10–17
Putting the USA on the Map 18–19
Practical Information 20–29
Travel Information 30–35
10  INTRODUCING THE USA

DISCOVERING THE USA

The following tours have been designed to longer tours. Next come six five-day tours,
take in as many of the country’s highlights as covering historic New England, sunny
possible, while keeping long-distance travel Southern Florida, the atmospheric South
to a minimum. First come five two-day tours and Texas, the breathtaking Southwest and
of some of the USA’s most notable cities: New Rockies, iconic California, and the spectacular
York City, Washington DC, Boston, Chicago, Pacific Northwest. These regions are filled with
and San Francisco. With abundant attractions, countless activities and attractions, including
inviting neighborhoods, and thriving cultural some of the world’s most decorated wine
scenes, these metropolises are consistently regions. The routes can be combined to make
ranked among North America’s most popular a superb multi-week trip through the whole
cities for visitors. These itineraries can be country. Pick, combine, and follow your favorite
followed individually or combined to form tours, or simply dip in and out and be inspired.

Seattle WA
Astoria Mount Rainier
Cannon Beach Mount St. Helens
Portland
Oregon Dunes MT
Bandon OR
ID

Pacific
WY
Ocean
Wine Country
San Francisco NV UT
CA o
ad
Monterey or CO
ol
Las
C

Big Sur Hearst® Vegas

Castle Grand
Canyon
San Luis Obispo Los Santa Fe
Santa Barbara Angeles
Petrified Forest
AZ National Park
San Diego

Golden Gate Bridge NM

San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge,
stretching 1.7 miles (2.7 km) across San
Rio
Gr

Francisco Bay, links the city with Marin

an
de

County and offers breathtaking views.

Five Days in the Five Days in Five Days in

Pacific Northwest California the Southwest
•
Explore the inviting shops, •
Treat yourself to samples •
Take in the glitz and
design studios, and cafés at the world-class wineries glamour that line the
that populate Portland’s found in the Napa and Las Vegas Strip.
trendy Pearl District. Sonoma Valleys. •
Peer into the vast expanse
•
Dodge the flying fish •
Snap a photo at the base of the Grand Canyon and
found at Seattle’s famous of San Francisco’s one and marvel at one of nature’s
Pike Place Market. only Golden Gate Bridge. great wonders.
•
Feel humbled by the •
Pretend you’re a movie •
Enjoy the unique
magisterial beauty of Mount star while strolling adobe architecture that
Rainier National Park and along Los Angeles’s makes Santa Fe one of
Mount St. Helens National iconic Sunset and the country’s most
Volcanic Monument. Hollywood Boulevards. breathtaking cities.

Highway leading to Monument Valley, Arizona

 DISCOVERING THE USA  11

Five Days in Five Days in

New England the Deep South,
Southeast, and Texas
•
Visit Newport to stroll the
Cliff Walk, stopping to take •
Give yourself a history lesson
in historic mansions such at Atlanta’s Martin Luther
as the Breakers. King Jr. National Historic
•
Enjoy stunning natural Site and the Jimmy Carter
scenes by driving the Library & Museum.
famous 27-mile Loop Road •
Let the good times roll by
in Acadia National Park. shopping, dining, and
•
Experience Portland’s drinking the day away on
New England New Orleans’s famous
atmospheric Old Port
Picturesque historic villages, Royal and Bourbon Streets.
neighborhood.
such as this Shaker-style
settlement with a classic New
•
Channel your inner cowboy
England steepled church, (or cowgirl) with a visit to
abound in New England. the Fort Worth Stockyards
National Historic District.

ME
Lake
Superior Acadia National Park
ND
VT Portland
Lake Lake NH
Michigan Huron Lake NY
MN
WI Ontario MA Boston
SD Providence
Newport
MI CT RI
Lake
Erie
Chicago PA NJ
IA
OH
Miss o

NE
IL DE 0 kilometers 500
IN Washington, DC
uri

MD 0 miles 500
WV
M
iss

KS VA
issi

KY
pp

MO
i

NC
TN
OK Key
AR SC
Atlanta
Dallas MS AL Five Days in the
GA Pacific Northwest
Fort Selma Atlantic
LA Montgomery Five Days in California
Worth
Ocean Five Days in the
Mobile Southwest
TX
FL Five Days in New England
New
Orleans Five Days in the Deep South,
Southeast, and Texas
Gulf of Everglades
Five Days in South Florida
Mexico National Park Miami
Key Largo
Key West

Five Days in
South Florida
•
Snorkel or swim the coral
reefs of the Florida Keys.
•
Indulge in Miami Beach’s
Florida Keys world-class nightlife and
This chain of fossilized Art Deco architecture.
coral islands protected
by a coral reef draws •
Be amazed by the vast
visitors to fish, snorkel, landscapes of the
dive, and enjoy the Everglades National Park.
sandy beaches.
12  INTRODUCING THE USA

Two Days in Day 2

New York City Morning While away a few
hours exploring the trove
With careful planning, of great paintings at the
many of the city’s most National Gallery of Art (p206).
famous sites and unique Then head to the National
experiences can be enjoyed Air & Space Museum (p205),
during a two-day visit. which showcases exhibits
ranging from the Wright
brothers’ first airplane to the
Day 1 latest space rockets.
Morning Start with a 1-hour
guided tour of the city’s vast Afternoon Walk along Tidal
Metropolitan Museum of Art Basin (p208), which is
(p90), known as the Met, offered particularly pretty when the
every 15 minutes daily from Washington’s colonnaded Jefferson cherry trees are in blossom.
10:15am. Art lovers should make Memorial on the banks of the Tidal Basin Take in the striking monuments
the short walk across Fifth honoring past presidents,
Avenue to Frank Lloyd Wright’s browse its many world-class including the Jefferson
amazing Solomon R. boutiques selling everything from Memorial (p208) and Franklin
Guggenheim Museum (p92), books and clothes to gourmet D. Roosevelt Memorial (p209).
home to one of the world’s culinary treats. Give your feet a A short distance from here is
most acclaimed modern art break by sampling the area’s lively the awe-inspiring Lincoln
collections. Follow this with a cafés, bars, and restaurants. Memorial (p209), which looms
walk through neighboring large over the Reflecting Pool.
Central Park (pp88–9). Two Days in Make your way to the
Washington DC Smithsonian American Art
Afternoon Hop on the Fifth Museum (p207), which houses
Avenue bus to 59th Street and The USA’s capital is full of American art from the Colonial
Grand Army Plaza, then walk on breathtaking monuments, period to the present.
down Fifth Avenue (p87) to attractive neighborhoods,
the Rockefeller Center (p86) at and historic sites.
49th Street, passing shopping
Two Days in Boston
meccas such as Bergdorf
Goodman, Tiffany, Trump Tower, Day 1 Boston’s importance in
and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well Morning Start the day with a American history has left it
as the striking St. Patrick’s roam around the nation’s with a unique architectural
Cathedral (p87). Visit the legislative heart, the Neo- heritage. It has a wealth of
89th-floor observatory at the Classical United States Capitol sights, parks, and gardens.
Empire State Building (p83) for (pp202–203). Then stroll the
the legendary panorama of the grand mile-long Mall (pp204–
city. For souvenir shopping, 205), lined on either side with Day 1
Macy’s (p83) is a block west, or an amazing choice of museums. Morning Compact and
continue on to the bright lights Stop at the National Museum of walkable, Boston can be easily
of Times Square (p84). American History (p207) to see explored on foot. Begin your
the First Ladies exhibition, the day at Boston Common and
Day 2 flag that inspired the national the Public Garden (p141). Grab
Morning To avoid long lines, anthem, and Abraham Lincoln’s a coffee and stroll the Back Bay’s
head to Battery Park (p76) top hat. Afterward, join the line (p151) world-class shops before
early to catch the boat to the for the elevator taking you to the the crowds arrive.
Statue of Liberty (p77) and top of Washington Monument
Ellis Island (p77), the symbol (p208), the city’s tallest landmark
of America’s immigrant heritage. (book online tickets in advance).

Afternoon Head to the top of Afternoon Take in one of the

One World Trade Center and then world’s most recognizable homes,
visit the moving 9/11 Memorial the White House (pp210–11),
and Museum (p76), in Lower residence of the US president,
Manhattan (book in advance). then take a virtual tour at the
If time allows, take a quick walk White House Visitor Center
down Wall Street (p76). End (p211). End the day with a show
the day with an evening stroll at the Kennedy Center (p212),
around the leafy lanes of trendy renowned for its music, theater, Boston Common, one of the city’s green
Greenwich Village (pp80–81) and and ballet productions. spaces, surrounded by high-rise buildings
For practical information on traveling around the USA, see pp30–35
 DISCOVERING THE USA  13

Afternoon Continue your from the colorful Fisherman’s

culture crawl of the city with Wharf (p690) and cycle over the
a relaxing afternoon at one of magnificent Golden Gate
the nearby museums – the Bridge (p695) to the pretty
Museum of Fine Arts (p152) or former fishing town of Sausalito
the Isabella Stewart Gardner (p697). Then catch a ferry back
Museum (p152). and have lunch at a café in the
Ferry Building (p686). After
Day 2 lunch, take a quick look at the
Morning Explore some of New Gandhi Monument and its
England’s priciest real estate inscription (p686) on the
in the historic Beacon Hill building’s east side.
(pp140–41) neighborhood. Grab
a jolt of caffeine at a stylish Afternoon Visit North Beach
coffee shop and then peruse Navy Pier, a bustling recreational and (p690), stopping off at some
the high-end boutiques and cultural center in Chicago of the historic businesses that
antique shops lining, Charles have made the neighborhood
Street (p140), the neighbor- Afternoon Window shop on famous: City Lights Bookstore,
hood’s most bustling area. the Magnificent Mile (p386). Vesuvio, and Caffè Trieste
Look out for the castle-like (p690). Make the climb to snap
Afternoon Head toward the Water Tower and Pumping scenic photos from the top of
waterfront to enjoy the city’s Station. North of here, the Coit Tower (p690). End the day
major attraction, the New Fourth Presbyterian Church is with a ferry trip to visit Alcatraz
England Aquarium (p149). Join the second-oldest surviving Island (p691), site of the
the steady stream of locals, inter- building on Michigan Avenue. notorious, historic prison (tickets
national visitors, and student Across the street, visit the John are limited, so book ahead).
groups who fill Faneuil Hall Hancock Center (p387) for
Marketplace (p147) to shop, panoramic views. Day 2
dine, and watch street perfor- Morning Stroll around the
mers. Check out historic displays Day 2 former “Flower Power” district
within Faneuil Hall (p142) Morning Start out at Navy Pier of Haight Ashbury (p693),
before strolling through the (p387), browsing shops before stopping to check out the
atmospheric North End enjoying the fun at the Chicago iconic Red Victorian B&B (p693).
(pp142–3) in the evening. Stop Children’s Museum (p387). Work your way east-by-
by the Paul Revere House Those without kids can take in a northeast until you reach the
(p148), and the atmospheric state-of-the-art IMAX movie. city’s Chinatown (p688),
Old North Church (p148), which stopping for lunch in one of the
are beautifully lit at night. Afternoon The museum many award-winning eateries.
campus houses three cultural
gems: the Field Museum, the Afternoon Take in the
Two Days in Chicago John G. Shedd Aquarium, spectacular California Academy
and the Adler Planetarium of Sciences (p694), which covers
The Midwest’s largest (p391). Afterward, enjoy the virtually every aspect of the
city is a labyrinth of historic gorgeous harbor views from natural world. Then, take a bus
neighborhoods. Chicago is the campus lawn. At sunset, across town until you reach
famous for its imposing catch the sound and light historic Mission Dolores (p693),
architecture and vibrant show at Buckingham in the heart of one of the city’s
cultural institutions. Fountain (p390). trendiest neighborhoods, the
Mission District.
Two Days in
Day 1 San Francisco
Morning Explore the
impressive collections at Set on steep, wooded hills,
the Art Institute of Chicago this jewel of a city has
(p388). Highlights include historic sights, cultural
the impressionist collection treasures, and distinct,
and the modern art wing. characterful neighborhoods.
Afterward, check out the
contemporary art in
Millennium Park (p388), Day 1
including the Pritzker Pavilion Morning Fit in with the healthy
with Frank Gehry’s sweeping California types and do some
bandshell and Juan Plensa’s pedal-powered sightseeing by Typical Victorian houses in San Francisco’s
“Crown Fountain.” renting a bike (p698). Start out Haight Ashbury district
14  INTRODUCING THE USA

Five Days in to reach the nautical resort of morning coffee at this fun
New England Newport (p162). Later, walk some complex, then take a 90­minute
(or all) of the 3.5­mile (5.5­km) cruise to see the mansions of
•
Arriving Fly into T.F. Green Cliff Walk (p163), stopping to the rich and famous and the
Airport, located just south admire historic mansions such Miami skyline. Stop at
of Providence, and fly out of as the Breakers (p163). HistoryMiami in the Miami-
Portland International Dade Cultural Center (p294)
Jetport. As an alternative, Days 2 and 3: Boston to appreciate the dynamic
visitors can fly in and out Make the quick trip north to history of the region, its Latin
of Boston’s Logan Boston, then follow the “Two Days influences, and the rate at
International Airport. in Boston” itinerary on pp12–13. which it has grown. Enjoy the
•
Transport Eastern rest of the day relaxing and
Massachusetts can pose Day 4: Acadia National Park people­watching on the
parking and traffic problems, to Bar Harbor hedonistic playground that is
so consider whether the Get an early start and drive to South Beach (p292) before
area’s transport options – Maine’s Acadia National Park sampling its famed nightlife.
notably the MBTA – satisfy (p180), being sure to take the
your needs. There are bus 27-mile (43-km) Loop Road, the Day 2: Miami Beach
and rail options linking most park’s stunning main attraction. Relax on Miami Beach
of New England’s major Once darkness nears, head to (pp292–3). A walk down Ocean
cities, but to best explore the adjacent Bar Harbor (p180). Drive between 6th and 13th
the region a car is needed. The island’s largest town is Streets provides the most
popular for its restaurants, concentrated collection of
shops, and lodging options. tropical­motif Art Deco
Day 1: Providence (pp292–3) buildings in the
and Newport Day 5: Portland world. Stroll the shops of the
Providence (pp160–61), Rhode Head south to Maine’s biggest Lincoln Road Mall (p292) before
Island’s largest city, is full of town. Though it has burned settling on a sidewalk café. If
visitor attractions. Head down­ down four times since its time allows, learn about the
town to admire the imposing establishment in 1633, Portland region’s Jewish heritage with
Rhode Island State House with (p178) remains one of America’s a visit to the moving Holocaust
its white marble dome. Then most inviting small cities. Take a Memorial (p293), where the
stroll through the Waterplace stroll along Congress Street and centerpiece is an enormous arm
Park and Riverwalk (p160) through the restored Old Port and hand reaching upward.
before heading uphill to peruse District. Spend the afternoon
the eclectic neighborhood viewing the Winslow Homer Day 3: Florida Keys
shops and ethnic eateries near collections at the Portland Drive down the Overseas
the Brown University (p160) Museum of Art (p178), or visit Highway (US 1) into the Florida
campus. From there take in the historical Victoria Mansion Keys. At Key Largo (p322), head
Benefit Street’s “Mile of or the Wadsworth-Longfellow for John Pennekamp Coral
History” (p160), which includes House (p178). Reef State Park (p322) to
houses ranging in style from arrange a visit to the coral reef.
Colonial and Federal to Greek Five Days in Plan on 3 hours for snorkel or
Revival and Victorian. Grab a South Florida glass­bottom boat tours. After
bite at one of the city’s hot­dog lunch, continue along US 1
stands, then cross the tiny state •
Arriving Miami International toward Key West (p323) for a
Airport, west of downtown, walk along Duval Street (p323),
and the smaller Fort capped off with sunset at
Lauderdale International Mallory Square (p323).
Airport, about 30 minutes
north of Miami, have Day 4: Florida Keys
direct flights to and from Start your day by hopping
international major cities. aboard the Conch Train (p323)
•
Transport There are some for a narrated overview of the
bus lines and private tour city. Stop at Wreckers’ Museum
companies, but most visitors (p323), which illustrates the Keys’
to South Florida rent a car. long maritime history. Then
head to the Spanish­colonial­
style Hemingway Home (p323),
Day 1: Miami where the writer Ernest
Start your visit downtown at Hemingway lived from 1931 to
Bayside Marketplace (p294), 1940. Browse the city’s many
Rhode Island State House, Providence, with the launch point for numerous colorful shops, then enjoy a
its marble dome and bronze statue boat­trip operators. Enjoy a margarita at a lively bar or café.
For practical information on traveling around the USA, see pp30–35
 DISCOVERING THE USA  15

onto infamous Bourbon Street

(p348), home to countless
music clubs and lively bars
serving lethal cocktails.

Day 4: Dallas
If an all-day drive through
swamp-filled Louisiana and
dusty East Texas doesn’t inspire,
take one of the numerous daily
flights from New Orleans to the
Dallas-Fort Worth region. Any
visit to Dallas (p472) must
include a stop at the Sixth
Floor Museum (p472), which
provides a chilling look back at
Miami Beach, stretching for 10 miles (16 km) along the Florida coast the 1963 assassination of
President John F. Kennedy.
Day 5: Everglades impressive World of Coca-Cola Other worthy cultural sites
National Park (p262). The world headquarters include the Dallas Museum
Finally, head deep into the heart of CNN are here, and visitors can of Art (pp472–3) and Nasher
of the massive Everglades channel their inner newscaster Sculpture Center (p473). End
National Park (p321). Enter the with a visit to the CNN Studio the day by feasting on some
park via Main Park Road for a (p262). Historical attractions authentic Texas barbecue.
39-mile (63-km) scenic drive. include the Martin Luther King
Visit the Pa-hay-okee Overlook Jr. National Historic Site (p262) Day 5: Fort Worth
(p321) for a panorama of the and the Jimmy Carter Library & The neighboring city of Fort
vast “river of grass.” At Flamingo Museum (p263). Worth (p474) shows off more
(p321), manatees and American of the state’s roots. The Amon
crocodiles may be spotted near Day 2: Alabama to Carter Museum (p475) features
the marina. On the return trip, a New Orleans the American art of the Wild
stroll down the Mahogany Drive southwest through West, and lively Sundance
Hammock Trail (p321) takes you Alabama (p364), cutting through Square (p474) is filled with
through one of the Everglades’ the heart of the Deep South. historic markers and shops
tree islands. Cities such as Montgomery selling classic cowboy hats and
(p364), the state capital, Selma gaudy belt buckles. Spend the
Five Days in (p364), and Mobile (p364) are all afternoon at the Fort Worth
the Deep South, worthy of a quick pit stop. Stay Stockyards National Historic
Southeast, and Texas on course and you’ll arrive at District (p474), which features
New Orleans (pp342–51) before daily cattle processions of
•
Arriving Fly into Hartsfield– sundown. Spend the evening massive longhorns, while Billy
Jackson Atlanta International sampling the city’s dining and Bob’s Texas (p475), the “world’s
Airport. Depart from live music scenes. largest honky-tonk,” is a must-
Austin’s Bergstrom see. If you’re lucky, a Texas icon
International Airport. Day 3: New Orleans such as Willie Nelson or George
•
Transport While there are Get to know 18th-century Strait will be taking the stage
some bus and rail options New Orleans with historical during your visit.
linking major cities, a car is exhibitions in the Cabildo
the easiest way to get around. (p346). Then proceed past street
musicians and fortune-tellers to
the Presbytère (p346) for some
Day 1: Atlanta colorful carnival culture at the
Atlanta (p262) is a booming Mardi Gras museum. Stroll
metropolis generally considered through the gardens in lively
to be the capital of the South, Jackson Square (p345) towards
and an ideal introduction to the the restored Old US Mint (p344).
region. Learn about the city’s Take a shopping break to the
role in hosting the 1996 French Market (p344), which is
Summer Olympics with a visit filled with open-air produce
to downtown’s Centennial stalls and souvenir stands. Then
Olympic Park (p262). Nearby are stroll down Royal Street (p349),
two of the city’s most popular which is lined with art galleries
attractions: the modern Georgia and antique shops, before St. Louis Cathedral, on garden-filled
Aquarium (p262) and the ducking around the corner Jackson Square, New Orleans
16  INTRODUCING THE USA

Five Days in Day 2: Las Vegas, South Strip Day 5: Santa Fe

the Southwest Tour the mega-casinos at the Spend a full day in Santa Fe,
southern end of the Strip. Enter visiting the Palace of the
•
Arriving Fly into Las Vegas’s the Luxor (p502) pyramid Governors (p540) and the
McCarran International between the paws of the giant Georgia O’Keeffe Museum
Airport, located right on Sphinx, and visit its exhibitions (p541) downtown, and the
the Strip. Depart from of artifacts from the sunken Museum of International Folk
Albuquerque International Titanic and “plastinated” human Art (p541) on the periphery.
Sunport or Santa Fe bodies. Then walk through Sample New Mexico’s chilies,
Municipal Airport. Excalibur (p502) castle to reach served in any number of ways.
•
Transport A rental car is a New York-New York (p502); to While the afternoon away on
necessity for making the see its Manhattan skyline close the art gallery-packed Canyon
most of the region. up, take a ride on its roller Road (p541).
coaster. Drive to the city’s
original downtown core and Five Days in
Day 1: Las Vegas, visit a casino along the Fremont California
Central Strip Street Experience (p506); at
Start by visiting Bellagio sundown, watch the sound- •
Arriving Fly into San
casino (p503) and its show- and-light shows on the Francisco International Airport
piece conservatory. Then catch overarching canopy. or Oakland International
the monorail to CityCenter Airport. Depart from San
(p503) for the stylish Crystals Day 3: Grand Canyon Diego International Airport.
shopping mall. Now head north Set off early for a full day at the •
Transport California does
across the Strip to Paris (p503), South Rim of the Grand Canyon have a decent rail network,
and enjoy the view from atop (p532). Begin with the views but a car is necessary to get
the Eiffel Tower. Eat lunch from Grand Canyon Village the most out of a visit to the
outdoors beside the Strip, or (p532), then tour the canyon state. Prepare for some of
in one of the legendary all- overlooks along Desert View America’s worst traffic; avoid
you-can-eat buffets. Next, Drive (p532). Spend the night rush hours at all costs.
visit Caesars Palace (p503), in the park itself, either in fine
admiring its version of accommodations or rustic
Michelangelo’s David and camp-style lodging. Day 1: Wine Country
browsing beneath the artificial After a short drive north from
sky of its Forum Shops, then Day 4: Grand Canyon the Bay Area, explore the world-
move on to the Venetian to Santa Fe class wineries that dot the Napa
(p504) and cruise along the Drive east toward New Mexico, (pp700–701) and Sonoma
Grand Canal in a gondola. stopping to take the 28-mile Valleys (p700). Clos Pegase,
Later on, as well as dining in a (45-km) scenic route through Rutherford Hill, and Mumm
gourmet restaurant and taking the Petrified Forest National (p700) are among the most
in a show, join the after-dark Park (p526). Arrive in breath- popular. Take a break from the
crowds on the Strip sidewalk, taking Santa Fe (pp540–41) in bacchanalia with a visit to the
to see free attractions like the time to watch the sunset region’s historic sites, such as
volcano outside the Mirage change the colors of the adobe the Mission San Francisco
(p504) and the fountains at buildings that populate North Solano de Sonoma (p700) and
Bellagio (p503). America’s oldest state capital. the Petrified Forest (p701).

Day 2: San Francisco

Select a day from the “Two Days
in San Francsico” itinerary on p13.

Day 3: San Francisco

to Hearst Castle®
Drive south along the stunning
California coastline. First comes
the beautiful 17-Mile Drive
(p680), followed by the rugged
Big Sur (pp678–9). Consider a
pit stop in two of the region’s
loveliest destinations: Carmel
(p680) and Monterey (pp680–81),
the latter home to the world-
class Monterey Bay Aquarium
(pp680–81). If time allows, take a
A nighttime view of the colorful Strip, Las Vegas guided tour of Hearst Castle®
For practical information on traveling around the USA, see pp30–35
 DISCOVERING THE USA  17

Five Days in the scenic views of the region, then

Pacific Northwest head south towards Cannon
Beach (p621). Take in the natural
•
Arriving Fly into Portland beauty at Ecola State Park
International Airport, (p621), visiting the beach to dip
12 miles (19 km) northeast your toes in the chilly Pacific
of downtown, and depart waters. Enjoy dinner in one of
from Seattle­Tacoma the town’s inviting bistros.
International Airport, south
of downtown Seattle. Day 4: Oregon Dunes
•
Transport Hiring a car is to Portland
essential for this itinerary. Continue south to the Oregon
Boats moored at the Embarcadero, Budget­minded travelers Dunes National Recreation
San Diego can use bus and rail Area (p621). Take it all in from
connections for some longer the scenic overlook point, or if
(pp676–7), the astonishing journeys, then hire rental time allows you can see the
mountaintop home of media cars when needed. tallest dunes by following the
tycoon William Randolph Hearst. Umpqua Scenic Dunes Trail
Spend the night in either Santa (p621). Continue south,
Barbara (p674) or San Luis Day 1: Seattle stopping to check out the
Obispo (p675), both filled with Begin by exploring Seattle’s craggy rock formations and
charming shops and inviting most famous historic neighbor­ imposing dunes near the small
restaurants serving local wines. hood, Pioneer Square (p604), town of Bandon (p621). Head
wandering its cobblestone north towards the state’s largest
Day 4: Los Angeles streets. Grab lunch at the city’s city, Portland (p618), arriving in
Continue south to Los Angeles most popular attraction, Pike time for a drink at one of the
(pp646–59). The entertainment Place Market (p604), then cross award­winning microbreweries.
capital of the world is a sprawl­ the city by Monorail (p606) to
ing mass of humanity linked by Seattle Center (p606), home Day 5: Portland
seemingly endless freeways, to the EMP Museum (p606) – a Start the day in one of the
some of which terminate at the must for music fans – and the hip Pearl District (p619)
attractive oceanfront cities of Space Needle (p606), which coffee shops. Continue on
Venice (p649) and Santa Monica offers breathtaking views of the foot through the city’s port,
(pp648–9). The iconic Sunset city, Mount Rainier, and beyond. known as Old Town (p619).
Boulevard (pp652–3) and Trend­seekers can cap off the day The neighborhood’s diverse
Hollywood Boulevard (p654) in the funky Ballard (p607) and history can be seen in the
are must­sees for first­time Fremont (p606) neighborhoods. breathtaking Lan Su Chinese
visitors. Art lovers should make a Garden (p619). If it’s the week­
beeline to the Getty Center Day 2: Seattle to Astoria end, check out the Portland
(p648) and Museum of Head south from Seattle via Saturday Market (p619), one of
Contemporary Art (p657). two of the region’s most famous the oldest and most decorated
sights. Mount Rainier National of its kind in the US. Spend the
Day 5: San Diego Park (pp614–15) offers several afternoon at the Portland Art
Head south, stopping just days’ worth of attractions; Museum (p618), then head over
short of the Mexican border depending on the season, to Pioneer Courthouse Square
in San Diego (p666). Get your choose from the likes of (p618) to people­watch.
fill of culture with a visit to the Nisqually Glacier (p614) and
Museum of Contemporary Narada Falls (p614). Continue
Art (p666) or the waterfront on to Mount St. Helens
Embarcadero (p666), home National Volcanic Monument
to the city’s Maritime Museum (p617), a popular attraction
(p666), where you can board since it erupted in 1980. Once
historic sailing ships. Head darkness approaches, make the
across town to immerse yourself short drive to Astoria, Oregon
in Old Town San Diego (p620) for dinner and a good
Historical Park (p666). Next, night’s rest.
make for Balboa Park (pp668–9),
with its many museums. If time Day 3: Astoria to
allows, squeeze in a visit to the Cannon Beach
San Diego Zoo (p669). End Astoria (p620) offers numerous
your day with sunset cocktails historic attractions such as the
and dinner at the Hotel del Captain George Flavel House
Coronado (p710), on exclusive Museum (p620). Climb atop the Narada Falls, one of many cascades within
Coronado Island. Astoria Column (p620) for Mount Rainier National Park
18  VISITING THE USA

Putting the USA on the Map

Spreading over 3,000 miles (4,800 km) east to west between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans,
the United States covers the heart of the North American continent and has a population of
321 million people. Bordered by Mexico to the south and Canada to the north, it extends for
over 1,500 miles (2,414 km), covering more than 3.5 million sq miles (9 million sq km), and
includes climates from the tropics to the Arctic Circle. The continental US is divided into Lake
48 states. These, together with the two states, Alaska in the extreme northwest, and the Winnipeg

islands of Hawai‘i in the Pacific Ocean, compose the 50 United States of America.
The national capital is Washington, DC, a small federal district located between the
states of Maryland and Virginia.

Vancouver
Vancouver Calgary
Calgary C A N A D A
um b i a
Seattle ol
C

Seattle-Tacoma Winnipe
WASHINGTON

Missoula Great M i s s o uri NORTH

Portland Colu
mbia
Falls DAKOTA
Portland MONTANA Bismarck
e
ak

OREGON
Sn

IDAHO Billings
Boise
SOUTH
DAKOTA
Eureka WYOMING Rapid City
Casper
o
en t
S a c ram

Salt Lake City NEBRASKA

Salt Lake City
Sacramento
San Francisco Pla tte
N E VA D A UTAH Denver
San Francisco
Denver
o
r ad COLORADO
lo
Co KANSAS
CALIFORNIA Las
Vegas UNITED STATES OF
McCarran
de
an
Gr

Los Angeles
OKLA
Rio

Amarillo
o

Los Angeles
ad

ARIZONA Albuquerque
Co l o r

San Diego Phoenix

Phoenix
San Diego Sky Harbor NEW Re d
MEXICO
Mexicali
Dallas
Tucson
Pacific Fort Worth

Ocean Ciudad TEXAS

Juarez

Kaua‘i Hawai’i
Ni‘ihau Hermosillo
O‘ahu
Honolulu Moloka‘i San Antonio
Ri
o
Maui San
Gr

Antonio
MEXICO
Gu

an d
lf

e
of

Hawai‘i
0 kilometers 200
Ca
lif

0 miles 200
or

Torreón
Monterrey
ni
a
 PUTTING THE USA ON THE MAP  19

S t ra i t
Alaska ng North ALASKA
ri
America

Be
Al

u Yu
e

ti kon
an B er i n g CANADA
Isl S ea A L A S K A
an
ds
HAWAI‘I
Anchorage
UNITED STATES
OF
AMERICA
Pa c i fi c G ul f o f
A l as k a
O c e a n
Pa c i fi c
Ocean MEXICO
0 kilometers 500

0 miles 500

Winnipeg Quebec City

eg

Thunder Bay
L a ke S u p e Montreal
r i or Sudbury Montreal
MINNESOTA Ottawa
Sault Ste Marie

Lake
WISCONSIN Huron
n
L a ke M i c h i ga

Toronto a r i o VT
Minneapolis St Paul Lester B Ont Boston
Pearson e NEW YORK
MICHIGAN Lak MA Logan
Minneapolis-
St Paul Buffalo
Detroit CT RI
Sioux Milwaukee Detroit ie
Er New York
Mis

Falls Metropolitan ke JFK

La PENNSYLVANIA
sis

Cleveland
p iChicago-
si

NJ
p

Des I O WA O'Hare
Moines Chicago Pittsburgh Philadelphia
OHIO Philadelphia
INDIANA Pittsburgh Baltimore
Omaha DE
ILLINOIS Baltimore
Indianapolis Dulles
Cincinnati Washington, DC
Lambert- Indianapolis W EST MD
Kansas City VIRGINIA
St Louis
o Louisville VIRGIN IA
St Louis O hi

AMERICA KENTUCKY
MISSOURI
Nashville ee NORTH CAROLINA
es s
TENNESSEE nn Charlotte-
HOMA Douglas Charlotte
Te

Little
Rock Memphis SOUTH
Oklahoma Ark a n sa CAROLINA
City s
ARKANSAS Atlanta
Atlantic
Missi ssi ppi

Hartsfield-Jackson
Birmingham
ALABAMA GEORGIA Ocean
Dallas Jackson Montgomery
a

Savannah
bam

MISSISSIPPI
Ala

Re Jacksonville
d

LOUISIANA Jacksonville
Tallahassee
Houston New Key
Orleans New Orlando
Houston Orleans Highway
Orlando
Corpus Railroad
FLORIDA
Christi State border
International border

Miami
0 kilometers 250 Miami
0 miles 250

For keys to symbols see back flap

20  VISITING THE USA

PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Millions of visitors travel to the US from This section gives some basic information
around the world every year, and millions on the various transportation and
of Americans also spend their leisure time accommodation options available. It deals
exploring and enjoying their country. with issues such as passport and visa
The nation’s richly diverse history, culture, formalities, travel insurance, banking,
art, and landscape, as well as its tradition of communications, and health care. This
hospitality and service, makes traveling in section covers the country as a whole, but
the US both enjoyable and stress-free. more specific information is provided in
In all parts of the country, tourist facilities subsequent Practical Information sections
are generally of a very high standard. at the end of each regional chapter.

When to Go these times. Summer is also the New England and the Rocky
The best time to visit the US time when numerous outdoor Mountains, to tropical sunshine
depends on a visitor’s interests cultural events, fairs, and on the beaches of Florida
and itinerary. It is important to festivals take place. and Hawai‘i.
time your visit carefully, because Spring can be the best time
the country’s geography and to visit the Rockies and the Deep
weather patterns vary greatly South; the crowds are fewer, and Passport & Visas
from region to region, even at discounts are often available. All travelers to the US, including
the same time of the year. April and May in particular are returning Americans, are required
Summer is generally the warmest ideal times to experience the to hold a valid passport with an
and most popular time to travel, wildflowers and gardens of the electronic chip in it, regardless
especially to the northern areas. southern US. Fall is another good of their age. Passports should
Summer in the southern parts, time to travel, since the leaves on be valid for at least six months
especially in the deserts of the the trees in the mountain forests, longer than you expect to
Southwest, can be unbearably particularly in the northeast, are remain in the country. Holders
hot, while in New England they at their peak of color, and the of Canadian, Australian, New
are generally cool and pleasant. high humidity of summer has Zealand, EU, or UK passports with
All over the country, the summer decreased to more pleasant a round-trip ticket do not need a
months are when children are levels. Winter brings on the visa for a visit of up to 90 days.
out of school and on vacation, greatest diversity of weather, Citizens of these countries
so most resort areas and national ranging from heavy snows in instead take part in the “visa
parks are full to capacity during the winter sports capitals of waiver” program, using the ESTA
form, which must be completed
The Climate of the USA online at least 72 hours before
travel at https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov.
Given the sheer vastness of its size, the United States is
Also, if you qualify for a visa
characterized by a diversity of climates. In addition to the many
regional variations, the country also experiences dramatically
waiver and are entering the US
shifting weather patterns, produced mostly by the Pacific westerlies from Canada or Mexico overland,
that sweep across the entire continent. The Practical Information there is no need to apply for
section for each region contains a panel like the one below. ESTA. You will be required to fill
a form at the border instead.
However, due to increased
security measures, it is wise to
Climate Chart confirm visa requirements with
the US embassy before traveling,
Average daily maximum or with a travel agent.
85/30
° F/C temperature Anyone, who has traveled
64/18 68/20 67/19 to Iraq, Iran, Syria or Sudan in
44/7 48/9 the last 5 years, irrespective of
32°F 42/6
0°C nationality, must apply for a visa.
Average daily minimum
Visitors from countries that
27/–3 temperature
23 19 21 27
need a visa must apply to a
Average days of sunshine per US embassy well in advance.
days days days days
month Travelers interested in studying,
3.6 4.3 2.6 3.2
in in in in Average monthly rainfall working, or staying for a longer
period than the stated 90 days
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
should request special visas from
the nearest US embassy. If you
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  21

are in the US on a visa and need person over 21). No meat

to extend your stay, you should products, Cuban cigars, plants, Conversion Chart
contact the nearest office of seeds, fruits, or firearms may be US Standard to Metric
the Bureau of Citizenship and taken into the US. 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters
Immigration Services (see p25) 1 foot = 30 centimeters
in the US, and apply for an 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers
extension. Failure to do so may Planning a Trip 1 ounce = 28 grams
result in a fine or deportation. Since the country is so large 1 pound = 454 grams
and diverse, it is essential to plan 1 US pint = 0.5 liter
ahead in order to make the most 1 US quart = 0.947 liter
Travel Safety Advice of your time in the US. Following 1 US gallon = 3.8 liters
Visitors can get up-to-date a logical, efficient itinerary, and
travel safety information from allowing enough time to get Metric to US Standard
the Foreign and Common­ between places to enjoy them 1 centimeter = 0.4 inch
wealth Office in the UK (www. are two of the most important 1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches
gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice), concerns. Some suggested tours 1 kilometer = 0.6 miles
the State Department in the can be found on pages 10-17 1 gram = 0.04 ounce
US (travel.state.gov/) and the of this book. Bear in mind that the 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
Department of Foreign Affairs US is split into six time zones (see 1 liter = 1.1 US quarts
and Trade in Australia (dfat.gov. p30). All of the states and major
au/) or (smartraveller.gov.au/). cities offer a variety of information
which can be ordered in advance discounts and special services to
over the telephone or accessed attract them. Visitors over the age
Customs Allowances & via websites. Local bookstores are of 50 can contact the American
Duty­free also a valuable source of travel Association of Retired Persons
All visitors to the US are required information, as are municipal or AARP (see p25) to request a
to complete a Customs Declar- libraries, travel agencies, and membership, which costs about
ation before entering the country. local and regional tourism $16 per year ($17 for Canadian
On this form, which is available bureaus across the country. residents and $28 for residents
from airlines or customs officials of other countries) and offers
upon arrival, you must state the good travel discounts. A few
value of any goods being Children organizations cater to seniors
brought into the US, and you Children are welcomed every- who enjoy traveling both in and
may be charged duty on where, and an amazing number outside the US, including Road
especially valuable items. of attractions exist primarily for Scholar (800-454-5768/www.
Travelers are allowed to bring the enjoyment of young people. road scholar.org), which arranges
small quantities of tobacco and From amusement parks and educational trips for those over
alcohol along with them, but aquariums to national parks and the age of 55. These include
certain goods are forbidden. children’s museums, their enjoy- inexpensive accommodations,
When you visit the US, make sure ment is catered to all over the US. activities, lectures, and meals.
that you are aware of the duty- Most restaurants have special
free allowances for tobacco children’s menus, with simple
products (200 cigarettes for each foods, smaller portions, and lower Disabled Travelers
person over 18 years old), and for prices. For a small charge, most Disabled travelers will find travel-
alcoholic beverages (0.2 gallons lodgings will provide an extra ing easy in the US, because the
or one liter of spirits for each bed or crib (see p27), and many country has initiatives aimed at
hotels or motels have adjoining providing “barrier-free” access
or connecting rooms available throughout. The Americans with
Public Holidays
especially for families. The main Disabilities Act (ADA) requires
New Year’s Day (Jan 1) exceptions to kid-friendly status most public buildings, including
Martin Luther King Jr. are some bed-and-breakfast museums, hotels, and restau-
Day (3rd Mon in Jan) accommodations, certain rants, to make their services and
Presidents’ Day (3rd Mon gourmet restaurants in the larger facilities accessible to all people,
in Feb) cities, as well as those deluxe including those using wheel-
Memorial Day (last weekend resorts that focus on providing chairs (see p27). Trains, buses, and
in May)
relaxing escapes or luxurious spa- taxis are designed to accommo-
Independence Day (Jul 4)
like pampering to their guests. date wheelchairs. Two of the
Labor Day (1st Mon in Sep)
Columbus Day (2nd many organizations in the
weekend in Oct) country that will help disabled
Senior Citizens visitors plan and enjoy their trips
Veterans’ Day (Nov 11)
Thanksgiving (4th Thu Older travelers, or “seniors,” make are The Guided Tour Inc (215-
in Nov) up a fairly large proportion of the 782-1370/www.guidedtour.com)
Christmas Day (Dec 25) traveling public, and most hotels and Care Vacations (780-986-
and other establishments offer 6404/www.carevacations.com).
22  VISITING THE USA

Communications & Banking DIRECTORY

Most banks in the US can accept transfer of funds from foreign Financial Services
banks. Many travelers already use credit cards or cash/debit American Express Helpline
cards, so getting money from a bank or ATM should be relatively Tel (800) 221-7282.
simple. It’s best to buy traveler’s checks in US dollar amounts American Express
before entering the country in order to avoid delays and extra Travel Service
charges. The country offers excellent telephone and mail Tel (866) 901-1234.
services; cell phones and Wi-Fi hotspots have made keeping in Cirrus/Mastercard
touch easier and less expensive than ever, and most hotels also Tel (800) 424-7787.
offer wireless Internet (Wi-Fi). Travelex
Tel (516) 300-1622, (877) 414-6359.
Telephones activated for roaming. However, Visa Global Customer
Although public telephones roaming rates can be steep. If Care Services
Tel (800) 847-2911.
may still be found in hotel you want to use a compatible
lobbies and on some streets, GSM phone, buying a local SIM
they have largely been replaced card ($10 or less) will prove to
by mobile phones. Local calls be a cheaper option. AT&T is a and malls. Other financial
cost between 50 cents and $1, popular service provider while institutions such as savings-
with additional charges for some networks also sell basic and-loans and credit unions
longer calls. Some hotels offer phones for as little as $15. also offer banking services.
guests free local calls, but some Traveler’s checks can be cashed
levy hefty charges per call, so as long as you have your pass-
check ahead. Making inter- Postal Services port. Banks also give cash
national calls is very expensive. Post offices are open from 9am advances against credit cards,
Visitors who wish to use their to 5pm (weekdays) with some but card companies charge a
own cell phone in the US will open on Saturday mornings. high fee for this service. Most
need a tri-band phone and a Postcards and letters can be banks will not exchange foreign
SIM card that has been dropped into big blue mailboxes currency. Banking hours are
on street corners. Domestic mail 9am to 4pm, weekdays, but
should include the five-digit zip some banks remain open till
Reaching the code. Rates for international 6pm on Fridays, and some open
Right Number mail vary, so buy stamps from a on Saturday mornings as well.
• The international code for local post office. To receive mail,
the US is 1. General Delivery service is
available, whereby letters are ATMs
• For long-distance calls
within the US or to Canada: held for you at a specific post Almost all banks have 24-hour
dial 1, the 3-digit area office for 30 days. Mail forwarding ATMs, as do most train stations,
code, and the 7-digit services also exist for a fee. airports, and malls. The primary
local number. US bank-card networks are
• For local calls: dial the 7- or Visa Plus, Cirrus/Mastercard,
10-digit local number. Internet Access Star, and Interlink. Be sure that
• International direct-dial call: Local libraries, shopping malls, your bank permits international
dial 011 followed by hotels, and university hangouts cash withdrawals, and that your
country code (UK: 44; are perhaps the easiest places card and personal identification
Australia: 61; New Zealand: to access the Internet. Most number (PIN) are compatible
64; South Africa: 27) then
library computers will let you with US machines. Many
the city or area code (omit
send e-mail and surf the web. ATMs charge a fee of $1 to
the first 0) and then the
local number. Many large cities have areas $3 per transaction. Exchange
• International call via the such as parks or malls where rates, however, are better than
operator: dial 01, followed by Wi-Fi is offered for free or for a those for traveler’s checks or
country code, then city code small fee. Most cafés, restaurants, foreign currency.
(without the first 0), and then and hotels offer free Wi-Fi. The
the local number. number of Internet cafés is
• For operator assistance: dwindling with Wi-Fi being Credit Cards
dial 0. readily available. The most commonly accepted
• An 800, 888, 877, or 866 credit cards are VISA, Master-
prefix indicates a free call. Card, American Express,
• Directory inquiries: dial 411. Banking Japanese Credit Bureau (JCB),
• For emergencies: Banks can be found in all US Discover, and Diners Club (DC).
dial 911. cities and towns, and many have Credit cards can be used in
service centers in supermarkets hotels, restaurants, stores,
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  23

and to pay for such services be replaced if lost or stolen. Foreign Exchange
as medical care or car rental. The most widely accepted Try to change your money
Having a credit card will make traveler’s checks are those into US denominations before
your stay much easier, and the issued by American Express traveling to the US. You may
exchange rates on cards are in US dollars. Buy checks in a find it difficult to exchange
often better than those for variety of denominations, with foreign currency except in
traveler’s checks or currency. $10, $20, and $50 bills. It can international airport terminals
be difficult to cash $100 bills in major cities. The main foreign
except at a bank. Foreign exchange companies in the
Traveler’s Checks currency checks are not US are American Express and
Some visitors prefer to carry accepted, and out-of-state Travelex. If you are in the need
traveler’s checks (although checks are difficult to cash. of ready cash, you can always
they are no longer widely used Contact the American Express visit a duty-free shop and buy
and cannot be easily cashed) Helpline for lost, stolen, or something so that you can
rather than cash as they can destroyed traveler’s checks. cash a traveler’s check.

10-cent coin
(a dime)
5-cent coin
(a nickel) 1-dollar 25-cent coin
Coins coin (a quarter)
American coins come in 1-dollar, and 50-, 25-, 10-, 5-,
and 1-cent pieces. 1-cent pieces are popularly called Bank Notes
pennies, 5-cent are nickels, 10-cent are dimes, and
Units of currency are dollars and
25-cent pieces are quarters.
cents; 100 cents make a dollar. Notes (bills)
N come in $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100s.
E All bills were once green, which made it
M hard to differentiate between them; now
I only the $1 bill is completely green.
C
E
P N
S E
M
I
C
N E
E P
M S
I
C
E
P N
S E
M
I
N C
E E
P
M S
I
C
E
P N
S E
M
I
C
E
P
S
24  VISITING THE USA

Health & Security a first­aid kit, extra gasoline, and

a tool kit for your vehicle, and
The United States does not have a national health service, and always carry a cell phone.
health care, though excellent, is operated for the most part Hikers should always be
by the private sector, making it extremely expensive. Medical prepared for sudden weather
travel insurance is highly recommended in order to defer changes, especially at higher
elevations. Stay on marked
some of the costs related to an accident or sudden illness. trails, and if camping or hiking
In terms of safety, some of the larger urban areas have a higher alone, it’s best to notify some­
crime rate than rural locations, so a few basic precautions are one of your plans, destination,
necessary for a trouble-free visit. Be sure to check with friends and estimated time of arrival.
or hotel staff about which parts of town are best avoided. Many trails have sign­in sheets
where you mark the start and
completion of your hike or
campout. In forested areas,
Personal Safety Security in Your Car hikers should wear bright­
Crime rates have declined A rental car can serve as a colored clothes and avoid off­
across the US in recent years, convenient place to store trail forests and fields during
and while most places on the your new purchases. However, hunting season.
tourist trail are reasonably safe it is also a magnet for criminals,
to travel, visitors should nonethe­ especially in parking areas at
less take safety precautions to major sites or hiking trails. Insects & Animals
avoid being a victim of crime. Always lock your car when Outdoor enthusiasts should be
Generally speaking, most crimes you leave it, and place suit­ wary of dangerous animals in
occur in neighborhoods or areas cases and valuables in the wilderness areas. Be especially
not frequented by travelers. trunk. Expensive items such as careful in bear country, as
It is always a good idea to steer cameras left out in the open attacks do happen. A wise
clear of neighborhoods that or in an unlocked car are easy precaution is never to feed
are off the beaten track. Avoid targets for smash­and­grab animals, or interfere with any
wearing expensive jewelry, thieves. Use hotel parking wildlife. Insect stings and bites
carry only small amounts of garages for overnight. are an annoyance but are not
cash, wear a money belt under usually life­threatening. Black
clothing, and always carry flies, mosquitoes, and deer
cameras, phones, and electronic Keeping Valuables & flies are a nuisance, so be sure
devices securely. Documents Safe to carry insect repellant.
Before you leave home, make Also, carry a snakebite or first­
photocopies of important aid kit if going into snake
Money documents such as passport country. If bitten by a snake
Carry only small amounts of and visa, and bring one copy or scorpion, seek medical
cash, and keep credit cards in with you and leave another in a help immediately.
a money belt rather than a safe place or with a friend. Do Try to avoid contact with
backpack or trouser pocket. the same for the serial numbers allergenic plants such as poison
Always use ATM machines of your traveler’s checks and ivy or poison oak. In the wild,
during the day or on busy, well­ credit cards, in the event they drinking water should always be
lit streets. are stolen or lost. treated or boiled to combat
waterborne bacteria.
Hotel Safety Outdoor Safety
Theft from hotel rooms is Participating in outdoor recrea­ Safety in Water
uncommon, but it is best not to tional activities can entail certain If possible, surfers and ocean
leave valuables out when you risks, which can be minimized swimmers should stay in areas
leave the room. Consider placing by taking proper precautions. with lifeguards on duty. If you
them, and any large amounts For activities such as mountain are not used to dangerous
of cash, in the hotel or in­room biking, rock­climbing, white­ currents, avoid unguarded
safe, a service that is usually water river­rafting, or motor­ beaches. Whether or not you
free of charge. While in your cycling, wearing helmets and are an experienced swimmer,
room, use the deadbolt lock for other protective devices are pay attention to the lifeguards
additional safety, and take time essential. Always wear a life and the overall condition of
to familiarize yourself with the jacket when canoeing or sailing. the lake or ocean water. Never
nearest emergency exits and Desert and high­ altitude swim alone, and watch out
fire escape routes. Never allow travelers should wear hats and for surfers, waterskiers, motor­
strangers into your hotel room sunscreen, and drink plenty boats, and jet skis. Keep an
or give them details of where of water to avoid dehydration. especially close eye on children
you are staying. In desert areas, be sure to take at all times.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  25

Preventing Forest Fires On federal lands, including DIRECTORY

While hiking in wilderness national parks and forests,
areas, be very careful lighting park rangers are there to Emergencies
campfires. Since firewood is protect the visitors. Wilderness All Emergencies
scarce, and forest fires start very areas are, for the most part, Tel 911
quickly, always check whether free of crime. for police, fire, or medical
campfires are allowed where emergency.
you are camping. Make sure to
extinguish all fires carefully and Legal Assistance Travelers’ Aid Society
∑ travelersaid.org
completely. A fire that still Travelers from outside the US
smokes is not out. who are in need of legal Hospitals & Medical
assistance should contact Facilities
their nearest consulate or the
Reporting Lost & embassy in Washington, DC. Tel 411
Stolen Property If arrested, you have the right for directory assistance.
Although the chances of to remain silent, to have legal
recovering lost or stolen counsel, and to make at least Lost/Stolen Credit
property are very slim, it is a one phone call. The police Cards & Traveler’s
good idea to report all missing will provide you with any Checks
items (including your car) to the necessary phone numbers,
police. Most public transport­ and should treat you with American Express
Tel (800) 528­4800 (credit cards).
ation companies, such as taxi respect and courtesy.
Tel (800) 221­7282 (checks).
firms, buses, subways, and
∑ americanexpress.com
airlines, operate Lost and Found
departments, which can be Insurance & Mastercard
reached by phoning their Medical Treatment Tel (800) 826­2181.
general access number. It is Comprehensive travel ∑ mastercard.us
useful to have a record of your insurance is highly VISA
valuables’ serial numbers and a recommended to anyone Tel (800) 336­8472.
receipt of purchase. Be sure to intending to visit the US. Any ∑ usa.visa.com
ask for a copy of the police emergency medical or dental
report for your insurance claim. care can be very expensive, Embassies
For lost or stolen credit cards or so having proof of insurance
Australia
traveler’s checks, contact the coverage is essential to help ∑ usa.embassy.gov.au
company that issued them. defray some of the costs
related to an unscheduled Canada
hospital visit. Bring a backup ∑ can-am.gc.ca/washington
Police prescription if you take New Zealand
Most law enforcement in any medication. ∑ mfat.gov.nz
the US is handled at the state A good insurance policy will
South Africa
and local government level. also pay for the replacement
∑ saembassy.org
State troopers and the State of stolen or damaged
Highway Patrol deal with property. If you need to cancel United Kingdom
traffic accidents and offenses or change your travel plans, ∑ gov.uk/government/
outside city boundaries. many policies will refund world/usa
County police and sheriffs your costs. US Bureau of Citizenship
patrol rural areas, small towns, and Immigration Services
and villages. ∑ uscis.gov
Law enforcement officers Emergencies
US Embassy
carry handguns and other If you need emergency help ∑ travel.state.gov
weapons, and should always from the fire, police, or medical
be treated with respect and services then dial 911. The call Senior Citizens
courtesy. The officers are is free from any public phone,
usually friendly, helpful, and and emergency phone boxes American Association
interested in your safety. In are located along major of Retired Persons
the wake of the 2001 terrorist highways and Interstates. All US 601 E St NW Washington D.C.,
attacks, National Transportation 20049.
medical facilities will provide
Tel (888) 687­2277.
Security Administration emergency care to injured
∑ aarp.org
officials are stationed in all people, regardless of means.
US airports, train stations, The Travelers’ Aid Society
bus terminals, and large, specializes in giving assistance
crowded venues. They provide to those travelers who find
passenger screening, crowd themselves stranded or in need
control, and other services. of emergency help.
26  VISITING THE USA

Where to Stay of the hostels affiliated with

Hostelling International (HI).
The US offers a variety of accommodations to suit all tastes These can be found in the
and budgets. At the high end of the comfort scale, visitors centers of nearly all major cities
can choose from luxury hotels and resorts, found in most and near popular destinations.
major cities. Country inns and bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs), They offer affordable beds in
dormitory-style shared rooms,
usually located in large, refurbished historic houses, offer a segregated by gender, and many
more personal atmosphere. If you’re traveling on a budget, also have a few private rooms for
there are numerous convenient and inexpensive motels all couples or families. Some hostels
along the highways. For those who wish to experience wide are housed in unique buildings,
open spaces, there are more than enough campgrounds in such as lighthouses or
renovated army barracks.
parks and forests.
All hostels have kitchen facilities,
bathrooms, and common rooms.
HI Hostels have several rules,
Hotels and Resorts beds, a bathroom, a TV, free Wi-Fi, including no alcohol and occa-
Hotels in the US range from and a phone. Buffet breakfast, sionally a curfew; guests are some-
sprawling beach resorts and though this can be basic, is times expected to bring their own
spas, to historic icons and some usually included. bed linen or pay rental charges. HI
of the world's best chain hotels, Many motels are run as part Hostels are open to travelers of all
such as the Hilton, Marriott, of national franchises, but ages, although non-members are
and Starwood groups. some of the more pleasant ones asked to pay a nominal surcharge
There are also a number of are locally owned. The most in addition to nightly rates, which
classic older hotels in traditional popular motel chains include is usually $15–50 for a dormitory
vacation spots, notably the Holiday Inn, Hampton Inn, room. In many urban areas,
early 20th-century rustic lodges and Super 8. there are also a number of
that are found in state and privately run hostels that offer
national parks. Some of these basic rooms or dormitory beds.
parks’ famous hotels, such as Bed-and-Breakfast
Yellowstone’s Old Faithful Inn and Historic Inns
(see p593), are located in Historic inns usually offer a classier, Campgrounds
unforgettably scenic locations. more enriching experience. Most local, state, and national
An alternative to the chain or Generally located in beautifully parks, national forests, and other
resort properties are the boutique restored historic homes or public lands provide parking and
hotels. These all have their own mansions, they are often decorated a single or double campsite for
distinctive atmosphere and stress with heirlooms and antiques. B&Bs, tents. The sites are equipped with
service over amenities. They can on the other hand, offer a wider a picnic table, a campfire pit,
be expensive, so ask for special choice, from rooms in private toilet facilities, and sometimes
rates or promotions. homes, where you may have to hot showers (see p47). Some are
share a bathroom, to luxurious fancier, with electrical and water
private accommodations that differ “hook-ups” for self-contained
Business Travelers from historic inns in name only. recreational vehicles (RVs).
Many downtown hotels cater to Most of these establishments are Overnight fees vary with location,
business people, and some offer run as full-time businesses by facilities, and season but generally
“club-level” accommodations professional staff. run from $20 to $50 a night. Many
with extra-large rooms. These Many inns and B&Bs rent out campgrounds accept advance
suites usually provide breakfast, rooms on a nightly basis, though reservations, however, some
snacks, and evening cocktails. some offer discounts for week- operate on a “first-come, first-
long stays. B&Bs also offer break- served” basis. Services such as
fast, often served communally. Woodall’s and Good Sam carry
Motels These are usually fairly lavish, listings of campsites.
Most motels provide reliable multi-course affairs, with eggs, Privately operated camp-
overnight accommodations. savory treats, and pastries. Some grounds, such as those run by
Usually located along the high- B&Bs, especially in rural areas Kampgrounds of America (KOA)
ways, they offer parking for your near popular tourist sites, may offer several features, including
car right next to your room. also serve gourmet dinners game rooms, swimming pools,
Motels tend to have fewer featuring regional specialties. and grocery stores. Some also
amenities than hotels, and are offer log cabins, suitable for
less expensive. Services may families. The most popular
include swimming pools and Hostels campgrounds fill up early during
children’s play areas as well as a For solo travelers, one of the weekends and in the summer.
restaurant. The rooms typically best ways to meet others and It is also a good idea to set up
have one large or two smaller save money is to take advantage camp well before sunset.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  27

Overnight camping in highway and resorts may insist on a frequently provide entertain-
rest areas or along public roads two-night minimum stay. ment and activities for kids,
is not only illegal but dangerous Most of the large lodging while resorts cater to those
as well. companies operate toll-free looking for ease, comfort and
telephone lines for reservations. general relaxation.
These lines give up-to-date Boutique hotels are
Rustic or Basic information about room rates, generally small with high-end
Accommodations availability, and are also a good design elements, and historic
There are several basic “walk-in” means to compare prices. options similarly offer a
campgrounds in forest areas, Companies also have websites characterful stay in buildings
used primarily by backpackers. where you can make reser- of particular note. Hotels and
These are generally free, but vations at the lowest cost. inns found off-the-beaten
check with park rangers about track fall under rural retreats
wilderness permits and other while luxury options promise
regulations. Vast portions of the Children excellent service and food in
West have such areas, managed Many hotels welcome children unforgettable surroundings.
by US government departments and provide extra supplies For the best of the best,
such as the National Park such as cots; babysitting look out for options that
Service, the US Forest Service, services may also be available. feature the DK Choice label.
and the Bureau of Land Some also offer activities and These have been highlighted
Management (see p47). other fun programs. Children in recognition of an exceptional
up to the age of 12, and some- feature, such as a stunning
times up to 16 or 18, can stay location, a notable history, or
Prices free of charge in their parents’ inviting atmosphere. Most of
Room rates for overnight stays room. Rooms often have sofas these are popular, so be sure
vary quite a bit, from under that unfold into beds; or extra to reserve ahead.
$20 a night for a campground beds may be set up for an Relevant hotel listings,
or hostel, to over $500 a night additional fee. For more specific to a region, can be
in a deluxe downtown hotel. information see page 21. found at the end of each area
Most places quote the rate per chapter for your convenience.
room, but federal and state taxes,
plus resort fees can sometimes Disabled Travelers DIRECTORY
raise the actual rate by up to US law requires that all Hotels and Resorts
25 percent. businesses provide facilities
Room rates at all levels of for the disabled (see p21) and Hilton
comfort vary with demand. It is, lodgings generally do their best Tel (800) 445-8667. ∑ hilton.com
therefore, worthwhile to ask for to accommodate all guests. If
Marriott
discounts or special packages, you have specific needs, give Tel (800) 228-9290.
especially on weekends in advance notice. Most places ∑ marriott.com
urban areas, weekdays in rural have wheelchair accessibility,
areas, or in the off-season. wide doorways, handicap- Starwood
accessible bathrooms, and Tel (888) 625-5144.
support bars near toilets, as ∑ starwoodhotels.com
Reservations well as in showers.
Some lodgings offer discounts Motels
for online and advance bookings. Hampton Inn
It is also better to check for Recommended Hotels
Tel (888) 378-0981.
last-minute booking discounts. The accommodation options ∑ hamptoninn3.hilton.com
Many hotels offer package deals featured in this guide have
in conjunction with a special been carefully selected for Holiday Inn
Tel (800) 465-4329. ∑ ihg.com
event, such as theater or their excellent facilities, good
concert tickets with overnight locations, and value for money. Super 8
accommodations. They have been split into Tel (800) 434-3213.
A number of lodgings will several themes for guidance. ∑ super8.com
request a credit card number The B&B category offers
when you make a reservation. personable rooms with a hearty Hostels
If you choose to cancel, you breakfast, and value establish-
Hostelling International USA
may be charged for a night’s ments, such as hostels and Tel (301) 495-1240. ∑ hiusa.org
stay, depending on the time. motels, help keep vacation costs
For example, if you don’t down. Business options provide Campgrounds
cancel by 6pm or earlier, you a range of useful facilities with
may be charged for one night. smart, contemporary rooms. Kampgrounds of America
At the most popular places in There are a variety of family- ∑ koa.com
peak season, many hotels friendly options, which
28  VISITING THE USA

Where to Eat and Drink is good or bad, adjust the tip

rate accordingly. If you are
In addition to offering top-class regional cuisines, many of paying by credit card, you may
which are rapidly gaining international recognition, the US include the tip in the charged
offers a diverse range of eating experiences, especially in amount on the space provided
its larger cities. New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and on the receipt. Some fast-food
restaurants have optional tip-jars
Chicago rival any global city for the quality of ingredients next to the cashier. Bartenders
and variety of cuisines available, with ambiences ranging expect to be tipped accordingly
from rustic to romantic. The best of each region can often be (usually $1–$2 per drink, or
found in the spirit of the immigrant communities that have 20 percent, whichever is greater)
helped to shape the local culture. Mexican food is often for each round of drinks.
Sales tax will not be shown on
excellent at local restaurants in Southwestern states such as
menu prices, but is applicable
New Mexico and Arizona; top-quality Asian fare can be to each item of food and drink.
enjoyed in the bustling expat conclaves found in most coastal Although they vary from state
cities. When it comes to smaller towns with limited dining to state and from city to city,
options, hotel restaurants are often the best option. these usually add around 5–10
percent to the cost of a meal.
Eating Hours out in most parts of the country
In the US, breakfast is often is a very affordable pastime, and Types of Food and
a banquet: restaurants offer even the most expensive restau- Restaurants
extensive breakfast menus rants in nearly all areas offer Dining establishments in the
to choose from, while hotels good value. US come in a wide variety of
usually have large buffets. Bacon, Light meals in cafés and shapes and sizes – from small
eggs, hash brown potatoes, diners usually cost between $10 and friendly diners offering
pancakes, waffles, cereals, toast, and $15, while many chain hearty burgers and snacks to
and muffins appear on most restaurants serve complete gourmet restaurants serving the
menus. Sunday brunch is a feast dinners such as chicken or steak latest global-minded cuisine;
to be lingered over, with with potatoes and vegetables some even feature molecular
seafood, meat, and poultry or salad for under $15. Ethnic gastronomy. Top-rated hotels
dishes served as well. Breakfast restaurants, such as Mexican, and resorts are guaranteed
times range from 6 or 6:30am to Chinese, and Thai, often offer to feature classy in-house
10:30 or 11am, though “all-day wonderful deals in the form of dining options.
breakfasts” are increasingly hearty combination plates for Starting at the lower end of
popular at many diners. Brunch $8–$12. At finer restaurants and the scale, fast food is a way of
is frequently available until 2pm. upscale cafés, dinner entrées life throughout the country,
Lunch is generally from can range from $20 to more and a string of outlets such
around 11:30am until 2:30pm than $50, and many offer as McDonald’s, Burger King,
or 3pm. Many of the pricier wallet-friendly prix-fixe meals, Wendy’s, KFC, and Taco Bell
restaurants offer scaled-down excluding drinks, for less can be found along the main
versions of their evening menu than $50. strips of most towns. They
for lunch, which can be good Most regions offer their own serve the usual inexpensive
value. Evening meals are served particular form of a dining deal: variations on burgers,
from 5:30pm or 6pm, and the New York’s popular diners, for sandwiches, fries, and soft drinks.
last seating is seldom later than instance, offer complete meals Chains such as Applebee’s and
9pm. In small towns, many for under $20, and Las Vegas’s Denny’s have more variety, with
restaurants are closed in the iconic casino buffets serve soups, salads, sandwiches,
evening, so call ahead to check. myriad dishes, such as roasts, meals, and desserts. These
At the other extreme, around- salads, pasta, and fish, to a high are generally good value, but
the-clock cities such as New standard at reasonable prices the quality varies from one
York, Las Vegas, and Miami (usually all-you-can-eat deals establishment to the next.
feature a bevy of 24-hour are priced between $15 and $50). Pizza chains are also ubiquitous
options – from inviting eateries Waiters are generally paid around the country.
to casual diners – offering a fairly low wages, meaning they Mid-range restaurants can
variety of meals at any time of earn the bulk of their income include a range of ethnic
the day or night. through tips. This means that cuisines, such as Italian, Greek,
all restaurants with table service Chinese, Japanese, and Mexican.
expect some sort of gratuity Many dependable restaurants
Prices and Tipping at the end of the meal. It is of this type can be found in
Although finding dining standard practice to leave shopping malls and commercial
bargains in the country’s popular between 15 and 20 percent of establishments. Those feeling
cities can be a challenge, eating the bill as the tip. If the service adventurous should keep an
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  29

eye out for roadside stands and Alcohol Reservations

snack bars; if there is a queue, Beer and wine can be found just Reservations are recommended
chances are that you have about anywhere food is served; for the best and most popular
found a hidden gem serving basic mixed drinks are also restaurants in any given city,
restaurant-quality fare at common. Visitors need to be and many establishments will
reasonably affordable prices, 21 years or older to buy alcohol. only accept reservations for
albeit without waiter service Be sure to carry a form of ident- large groups or parties of six
and other frills. ification as it is often requested or more. However, the majority
Foodies across the country before you are served. Some of restaurants do not require
are keen to enjoy the best regions still prohibit restaurants reservations, and most high-
of what is fresh and locally from serving alcohol, so look for profile restaurants allow space
sourced. In response, thousands a “BYOB” (“bring your own for walk-in guests who do not
of restaurants have placed a bottle”) sign in the window and book in advance. For those
heavy emphasis on filling their consider picking up a bottle of booking more than a day in
menus with dishes composed wine before settling in for a advance, it would be wise to
of seasonal specialties and farm- meal. Alcohol is forbidden on all confirm the booking on the
fresh ingredients. Regional Native American reservations. day of your reservation.
highlights include world-class
seafood in the Pacific Northwest
and New England, hearty steaks Disabled Facilities Smoking
and chops in the Midwest, and Federal and state legislation Smoking laws vary from
stunning year-round produce has made most restaurants state to state and city to city.
in California and Florida. in the US at least partially Almost all restaurants that
accessible by wheelchair, allow smoking have non-
and many more are accessible smoking sections. Smokers
Coffeehouses and to people with other disabilities. are often completely out of
Cafés Historic structures are luck when looking to light up
Coffeehouses are popular sometimes exempted from while dining in key destinations
throughout the country, with the accessibility requirements. such as New York and Los
one seemingly on every other Entrances are generally ramped, Angeles; their best bet is to
corner in major cities. Along doors may be fitted with an hope for a smoker-friendly
with specialty coffees, they automatic opener, and patio, or to have a smoke
generally serve pastries, bagels, restrooms usually include the pre- or post-meal out front
desserts, and sandwiches. appropriate stalls and sinks. on the sidewalk.
Cafés range from simple
establishments serving snacks
to trendy eateries offering a Children Recommended
variety of dining options. Restaurants across the country Restaurants
are generally very child-friendly. The restaurants featured in
Most establishments serve this guide have been selected
Vegetarian Options children’s portions and will across a wide price range for
Classic American cuisine is provide a high chair upon their value, good food, atmos-
largely meat-based, which request. Many bars, lounges, phere, and location. From
means that vegetarians may and restaurants with a focus on authentic, no-frills snack
not find much variety outside nightlife prohibit guests under shacks to pricey temples of
the larger cities and resorts. 18 or 21 years in the evening. gastronomy, these restaurants
However, salads can be found Also, some of the nation’s finest run the gamut across all price
everywhere, from fine-dining restaurants dissuade customers levels and cuisine types.
restaurants to fast-food chains, from bringing babies and small For the best of the best, look
and could constitute a meal in children to ensure comfort and out for restaurants featuring
themselves; they generally quiet for other customers. When the DK Choice label. These
come topped with meat or in doubt, call ahead to check. establishments have been
seafood, but vegetarian orders highlighted in recognition of
are often accommodated. their exceptional qualities – a
Many fast-food chains also Dress Codes celebrity chef, exquisite food,
now serve salads, soups, or Dining is usually a casual a beautiful setting, an inviting
baked potatoes to cater to pastime throughout the US. ambience – or a combination
the more health-conscious Even in high-end restaurants, of these. Most of these venues
among their customers. there is seldom a need for a are exceptionally popular
Additionally, ethnic restaurants jacket and tie; only the finest among local residents and
can usually be counted on to and most traditional upscale visitors, so be sure to inquire
offer a few meatless options establishments enforce a dress regarding reservations or you
such as veggie stir-fries and code. Make enquiries while may end up facing a lengthy
rice dishes. reserving a table. wait for a table.
30  VISITING THE USA

Travel by Air The least expensive fares are

the APEX (Advance Purchase
The United States is a nation on the move, with a huge Excursion) tickets for scheduled
number of airlines that fly both within the country and all airlines. These must be bought
around the world. While international travel is offered by US 21 days in advance and are
valid for a 7- to 30-day period.
airlines as well as by hundreds of airlines in other countries,
However, any changes that
domestic travel is limited to airlines based in the United need to be made can cost an
States. Because the country is so enormous, and competition additional fee. Some airlines
has reduced prices considerably, air travel has become an also offer cheaper fares if you
integral part of life. Today, most long-distance and medium- limit your stay to a certain
distance domestic travel is by plane. period of time. Senior citizens
and children may receive
discounts on certain flights.
These tickets are not always
Flying to the US Flights from Asia arrive at the available, though. Another
Most large foreign cities have West Coast airports. These option is the short-term Internet
several daily flights to a number flights, as well as flights from fares advertised by airlines if
of US cities, especially primary Australia, take between 11 and there are any available seats.
gateways to the East Coast, 12 hours. These are valid within a few
the West Coast, and through- days of the announcement
out the Midwest. The main (fares may be announced on a
East Coast cities include New Keeping Costs Down Wednesday for traveling that
York, Boston, Washington, DC, Air fares fluctuate in the US weekend and returning the
Atlanta, and Miami; Chicago, depending on the season, next weekend).
St. Louis, Houston, Dallas, and sometimes doubling during
Denver serve as main cities in the peak holiday periods,
the central region; and the especially in summer, and Arrival at the Airport
West Coast is served by Los around Thanksgiving and All international and US visitors
Angeles, San Francisco, $20 Christmas. Fares are usually less must go through customs and
and Seattle. expensive between February immigration when they arrive
Most international flights and March, when round-trip in the US (see p21). All major
from Europe travel across the transatlantic flights can cost airports have multilingual
Atlantic to New York, Washington, significantly less. You often information booths to answer
DC, Miami, Boston, and Chicago, get a better deal, too, by your questions and give details
taking roughly seven hours. flying mid week. on transportation into the city.
Most international airports are
well connected to the nearest
Time Zones across the United States city either by public transport-
The United States covers six different times zones – the “Lower 48” ation or the vast array of rental
states are divided into Eastern, Central, Mountain, and Pacific time, car facilities. Many rentals supply
while Alaska and Hawai‘i have their own zones. The zones are divided shuttle buses to car pickup points,
into one-hour increments. For instance, when it is 8pm in New York, usually located just outside the
it is 7pm in Chicago, 6pm in Denver, 5pm in Los Angeles, 4pm in airport. Major airlines are
Anchorage, and 3pm in Honolulu. connected to countless domestic
Eastern Time is five hours behind Greenwich Mean Time, and airline services, and all have
Hawai‘i is 11 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time. With a few facilities for disabled passengers.
variations, the United States observes Daylight Savings Time
Still, it is a good idea to pre-
between mid-March and early November.
arrange any necessary services
through your airline or agent.

Security
After the September 11, 2001
Pacific terrorist attacks, airport author-
Time
ities tightened their pre-flight
security checks (especially for
Mountain Central Time Eastern Time domestic flights). International
Time visitors should expect to be
frisked thoroughly and have
their hand luggage examined.
Items such as battery cells,
scissors, nail files, knitting needles,
sharp objects, and containers
 T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  31

holding more than 3 oz (100 ml) itinerary. This way you have to DIRECTORY
of liquid are prohibited. Signs buy only one set of tickets and
throughout the Customs areas often get a better deal. Another Airline Carriers
explain which items are pro­ money­saving option is to take American Airlines
hibited in checked luggage. advantage of “Visit USA” (VUSA) Tel (800) 433­7300.
Visitors with visas are photo­ coupons, which are good for ∑ aa.com
graphed and fingerprinted on numerous domestic flights
arrival, for details to be checked (between three and ten flights), British Airways
against a national security data­ for a prepaid fee. However, these Tel (800) 247­9297.
∑ britishairways.com
base. In light of increased security, coupons must be bought before
expect a long wait to check in. you arrive and must be redeemed Delta Airlines
with the same airline alliance with Tel (800) 241­4141.
which you flew internationally. ∑ delta.com
Flying within the The Internet and the
United States deregulation of the airline
Jet Blue
Tel (800) 538­2583.
Visitors interested in seeing the industry have made planning ∑ jetblue.com
entire country may want to take trips and purchasing tickets
advantage of domestic flights. much easier. The best prices Southwest Airlines
These are operated by around a now are on airlines’ websites. Tel (800) 435­9792.
dozen different major airlines, ∑ southwest.com
many of which fly internationally United Airlines
too. An extensive domestic flight Domestic Airlines
Tel (800) 241­6522.
network serves most cities. Most international airlines have ∑ united.com
The major US airlines operate a formed alliances with domestic
“hub­and­spoke” network – long­ flights, for instance, British
distance flights travel between Airways is partnered with carriers, which can make
regional airports, from where American Airlines, and Air France/ connecting flights a hassle, but
shorter flights continue on to KLM with Delta Airlines, making their fares are low, and there are
your destination. Most Delta flight networks effectively fewer restrictions.
Airlines flights converge on their interlinked. Beside the major
hubs in Atlanta and Minneapolis; international US airlines, there
United Airlines flights converge are a large number of domestic Fly-Drive
in Chicago and Denver; while airlines that offer inexpensive Many airlines, in addition to
American Airlines usually flies flights. The most popular of travel companies and agents,
first to Dallas or Chicago. these are Southwest Airlines offer fly­drive packages for
and Jet Blue which connect tourists, which combine air fares
to and from smaller airports and car rentals. These deals are
Booking a rather than from major ones. well worth considering, since
Domestic Flight These airlines are a less expensive they give you flexibility and
For foreign visitors, the easiest but reliable means of travel. usually save you more money
way to book a domestic flight is They offer basic snacks, and do than if you were to book plane
to have it agree with your not transfer to or from other and car travel separately.

Average Travel
Airport Information Distance from City Taxi Fare to City
Time
17 miles (27 km) from Road: 30 mins to
Chicago (O’Hare) (800) 832­6352 $45–50 to downtown
downtown downtown
Dallas–Fort Worth 18 miles (29 km) from $45–50 to downtown Road: 25 mins to
(972) 574­8888
(International) Dallas Dallas downtown Dallas
15 miles (24 km) from Road: 30 mins to
Los Angeles (LAX) (310) 646­5252 $60–65 to downtown
downtown downtown
10 miles (16 km) from Road: 20 mins to
Miami (International) (305) 876­7000 $35 to Miami Beach
Miami Beach Miami Beach
15 miles (24 km) from $50–55 to down­ Road: 1 hr to down­
New York City (JFK) (718) 244­4444
Manhattan town Manhattan town Manhattan
14 miles (22 km) from Road: 25 mins to
San Francisco (SFO) (650) 821­8211 $55–60 to downtown
downtown downtown
14 miles (22 km) from Road: 25 mins to
Seattle (Sea­Tac) (206) 431­4444 $40–45 to downtown
downtown downtown
Washington, DC (Dulles 26 miles (42 km) from Road: 40 mins to
(703) 572­2700 $60–68 to downtown
International) downtown downtown
32  VISITING THE USA

Travel by Road In and around cities, a

complicated system of ring
Away from major cities, where traffic can be frustrating, roads, link roads, and spur
driving in the United States is a delightful experience. Driving roads are also part of the
is a favorite American pastime, and to see the country in all its Interstate system. These
roads are often better known
glory, you have to drive a car. Major roads and most highways by name than number, for
are rarely crowded, and drivers are generally courteous and instance I-405 in Southern
safe. Gasoline in the US is comparatively inexpensive, and car California is referred to as the
rental rates are also reasonable. You can get by without a car “San Diego Freeway.”
in a few larger towns, and in cities like New York, Boston, or Most Interstates are free,
but some states charge tolls.
San Francisco you will probably be better off without one.
These sections, known as
However, in most of the country, and especially if you want “turnpikes,” have the same
to explore the wide open spaces of the western US, you will numbers as sections without
need a car since public transportation there is limited. toll booths.
Before the Interstate
Highway System came into
Types of Road Stretching all across the use, the primary long-distance
The US has an excellent network country in an east-to-west and highways were federal ones.
of roads, with over 4 million north-to-south grid, Interstate Today, these are the main
miles (6 million km) of paved Highways are abbreviated on routes in rural areas and are
roads open to the public. For signs with a capital “I,” followed officially signed as “US” and a
long-distance travelers, the by a number. The main number, ranging from US-1
fastest and most convenient Interstates start with I-5 on the along the East Coast to
part of the US highway system is West Coast and end with I-95, US-101 along the West Coast.
the Interstate Highway, a high- the busy main route along the Lined by neon-lit motels,
speed, limited-access highway. East Coast. Transcontinental and other classic landmarks
Some have between 6 and 12 Interstates run east-to-west and of roadside America, these
lanes running both directions, range from I-10 between Florida roads are slower but more
while rural areas generally have and California to I-90 between enjoyable to drive on, and
2 or 3 lanes. Boston and Seattle. along with many other state

Rules of the Road

• All traffic drives on the right. • Cargo-carrying heavy trucks generally stay in the
• All distances are measured in miles. slow lane. Keep your distance from these vehicles,
• Seat belts are compulsory, and children under the because they have poor visibility and enormous
age of 4 are required to have special car seats. weight and size.
• At traffic signals, green lights mean you can • On multi-lane highways traffic can pass only on
proceed safely; amber lights mean prepare to the left-hand side. On smaller roads safe passing
stop; and red lights mean stop. A flashing red places are indicated with a broken yellow line on
light means stop before proceeding; and a your side of the double yellow line.
flashing yellow light means proceed • Speed limits vary from state to state, but range
with caution. from 25 mph (40 km/h) in residential areas to
• At a red octagonal stop sign, traffic must come to 65–75 mph (105–120 km/h) on highways.
a complete halt before proceeding. When two or • There is a minimum speed of 45 mph (72 km/h)
more cars reach a stop sign simultaneously from on highways and Interstate Highways. Farm traffic
different sides of the intersection, drivers must and pedestrians are not permitted on Interstates.
yield to traffic on the right. • Parking is allowed on most streets, subject to
• A yellow triangular yield sign directs you to give posted rules, but any restrictions are posted at the
way to other traffic. site. Park only in the direction of travel. If you
• In towns and cities, roads are usually divided by a receive a ticket, pay it immediately or it will be
painted center line (usually white). Smaller streets charged (with a penalty) to the rental car
may have no dividing line. company, who will collect it from your credit card.
• On all roads, a double yellow line means do not • Visitors should be aware of regional exceptions to
pass or cross the lines. the standard US driving laws. Some of these are
• Some roads have a central lane, protected by pointed out in the “Practical Information” section
painted single lines; this is a designated turning of each chapter.
area for making left-hand turns. • Most foreign licenses are valid, but if your license
• “U” turns are legal only where posted. is not in English, or does not have a photo ID, you
• On multi-lane highways, the fastest traffic travels must get an International Driver’s License.
in the left-hand lanes; slower traffic occupies the • Drunk driving is a serious offense and can result in
right-hand lane. a heavy fine or jail term.
 T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  33

and country roads, provide ads may appear in magazines DIRECTORY

the country’s most scenic or newspapers.
routes (see pp50–51). Flexiblity is essential for a Car Rental Agencies
Road names vary from state driveaway deal since the destin- Alamo
to state. In the northeast, for ation is beyond your control. Tel (800) 354-2322.
example, highways are called You have to choose an efficient ∑ alamo.com
“routes” while in Texas, roads are route and average about 400
labeled “FM,” farm to market or Avis
miles (644 km) a day. However,
Tel (800) 331-1212.
“RM,” ranch to market. since you have to pay only for
∑ avis.com
the gas, the price is quite good.
To use a driveaway car, you must Budget
Tips for Renting a Car have a clean driving record, and Tel (800) 527-0700.
Most rental cars are relatively most companies require a ∑ budget.com
new and low on mileage, and minimum deposit to cover the Hertz
rates can vary according to insurance deductible. Tel (800) 654-3131.
demand. The smallest car, with- One of the biggest driveaway ∑ hertz.com
out insurance, will be in the companies, Auto Driveaway, has
range of $250–300, a week. offices all over the US. Other firms Driveaways
The best rates are generally are listed in phone books under Auto Driveaway
offered for cars rented for full- “Automobile Transporters.” Tel (800) 346-2277.
week time periods, and for ∑ autodriveaway.com
returning cars to the same
location they were rented from. RV Rentals RV Rentals
A more economical option is Recreational vehicles (RVs) or
Cruise America
the fly-drive (see p31). mobile homes, are great for Tel (800) 671-8042.
Small economy or sub- families or groups, as they are ∑ cruiseamerica.com
compact cars have the lowest equipped with beds, kitchens,
rates. Many companies also and bathroom facilities. Costs Recreational Vehicle
offer upgrades to larger or more run between $900–1,400 for Association of America
∑ gorving.com
luxurious vehicles for very modest seven nights plus a per-mile
rates. Most rental cars have auto- charge, but lodging is free Road Conditions
matic transmissions, power and you have some flexibility, Information
steering, and air-conditioning, despite the vehicles’ slow,
but you should confirm this in stocky designs. Although American Automobile
advance. Also, check for any rental RVs are usually older, Association (AAA)
pre-existing damage to the car Tel (800) 222-4357.
conditions are similar to those
∑ aaa.com
and note this on your contract. for cars.
To rent a car, you must be at It is illegal in most places
least 25 years old, have a valid to pull over to the side of the
driving license, a clean driving road and camp. Many chain Gas Stations
record, and a major credit card. retail outlets, notably WalMart, Except in the most remote areas,
The car company will “authorize” allow one night’s free stay in gas stations are easy to find and
an amount ranging between their parking lots, with conveniently located. Many
$250–1,000, to assure payment approval of the manager or stations require advance
and return of the vehicle. front desk. Even with an RV, payment, either by cash or credit/
Depending on your existing car it costs about $20 a night to debit card. Most gas stations
insurance policy, you may want to park in a campground also have attached convenience
accept the “damage waiver” and (see p26–7). For more details stores, where you can buy food,
liability insurance that the rental contact Recreational Vehicle beverages, and newspapers.
company will offer you, and this Association of America or
will add $20–30 per day to the Cruise America.
rental cost. Installing GPS or Rest Areas
satellite radio will cost an Conveniently located immed-
additional $10–15 per day. Insurance iately adjacent to Interstates
It is extremely important that and major highways, rest areas
you have adequate insurance are easily accessible and
Driveaways if you plan on driving around provide restrooms, telephones,
An inexpensive option for a long- in the US. Rental agencies picnic tables, dog-walking
distance road trip is a driveaway generally include insurance in areas, and sometimes free
car. Driveaways let you take a the cost, but if you bring a car coffee. Some even allow
private car to a predetermined into the country, you must overnight stays, but be wary
place in a specified amount of make absolutely sure that you of strangers. It is a good idea
time. Most driveaways are offered are adequately covered by car to make stops to take a rest
to private members, but some and life insurance. when driving long distances.
34  VISITING THE USA

Travel by Motorcycle or Bike Backroads organizes a variety

of guided bike tours, following
For visitors with time on their hands as well as a sense of some of the most spectacular
adventure, touring the United States by motorcycle or bicycle scenic routes, with overnight
can be a rewarding experience. Ride the open road with a stays in country inns or national
Harley-Davidson, or mountain bike throughout the beautiful park campsites. If interested in
long-distance cycling, be sure to
and peaceful American wilderness for the adventure of a contact the Adventure Cycling
lifetime. Good planning, familiarizing yourself with the rules Association, which has deve-
and regulations, and using the right equipment can make this loped a network of bike-friendly
an enjoyable way of seeing the country. routes on quiet and scenic roads
and also offers a wide range of
guided tours, as well as advice.
Motorcycles Bicycles
Fans of Marlon Brando’s Bicycles are another great way
famous movie The Wild One to see the country. Unlike Recreational Biking
(1953) or Jack Nicholson’s classic motorcycles, bicycles can be In country areas, many bike
Easy Rider (1969) may dream brought on most airplanes as paths have been reclaimed from
of exploring the United States luggage. Check the requirements unused railroad lines. Known as
on a motorcycle. Today, there first with your airline – many “rail trails,” these are some of the
are several motorcycle rental carriers require that you best long-distance bicycling and
companies, especially in bike- disassemble and pack the bike walking routes in the country,
friendly areas, where licensed into a special box, which is avail- often running alongside rivers
riders drive classic motorcycles able in most good bike shops. and having moderate grades.
such as Harley-Davidsons In a great many cities, there In addition, there are miles
or BMWs. are extensive networks of bike and miles of country roads
An American motorcycle paths, which are often separated everywhere you go. Areas such
license or an International Driving from car traffic. In some larger as California’s Wine Country and
Permit for motorcycles is cities, bikes can be strapped New England’s river valleys are
necessary. Also, the law in most onto the outside of local buses among the most popular.
states requires that you wear or carried on the subway. The more athletic or daredevil
a helmet. For serious long-distance traveler may also want to try
biking, it’s important to equip off-road mountain biking,
yourself with a good bike, tools which is encouraged in many
Motorcycle Rentals & and spares, maps, and recreational areas such as
Tours preferably a helmet. Cyclists downhill ski resorts in summer.
Renting is expensive, since the must obey all traffic laws and
rates and liability insurance can should be careful to lock up DIRECTORY
add up to well over $100 a day. their bikes and gear.
Moreover, you have to pay extra In the US, bikes are not as Motorcycle Rentals &
for collision insurance. If you plan common as they are in many Tours
to stay for a long period, it might other countries. Car and truck
be less expensive to buy a bike drivers are not used to sharing Blue Sky Motorcycle Rentals
for a few months, then resell it. the road with bikes, which can Tel (800) 251-5550.
Eagle Rider Motorcyle make cycling hazardous. Be ∑ blueskymotorcyclerentals.
Rentals & Tours rents Harley- aware of RV drivers in particular, com
Davidson and other motorcyles because it is easy for them to
in more than 25 states for misjudge the size of their vehicles. Eagle Rider Motorcycle
pick-up and returns to the Bikes are prohibited on restricted- Rentals & Tours
same location, and offers both access highways and freeways. Tel (888) 900-9901.
guided and self-guided tours. ∑ eaglerider.com
Blue Sky Motorcycle Rentals
has locations in about 10 states, Bicycle Rentals & Tours Bicycle Tours
primarily in California and Bikes are available for rent in all
the western US. major US cities for around $25 a Adventure Cycling
Riders may be interested in day, or you can buy used bikes Association
taking part in one of the many from flea markets or garage sales. 150 E Pine St, Missoula, MT 59802.
motorcycle rallies, when Notices of secondhand sales (800) 755-2453.
thousands of riders get together appear in newspaper ads or ∑ adventurecycling.org
for annual gatherings held in hostel notices. In many cities
places like Daytona Beach, such as Boston, Chicago, and Backroads
Florida (early March); Laconia, New York, there are bike share Tel (800) 462-2848.
New Hampshire (mid-June); or schemes that allow you to ride ∑ backroads.com
Sturgis, South Dakota (August). bikes locally for minimal cost.
 T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  35

Travel by Bus or Train included in the price. Amtrak

travel is especially good value
Although more time-consuming than flying, long-distance bus for international visitors, who
and train trips let you see the beauty of the US. Greyhound – can take advantage of a number
the major long-distance bus company – offers clean, modern of rail tickets for 15, 30, or 45 days
of train travel for a fee of $459–
travel conditions with on-board movies and restroom facilities.
899, depending on the dates
Amtrak trains are spacious and comfortable. Amtrak provides and regions of travel.
restaurant cars, observation cars, and great social atmospheres.
If you want to meet fellow travelers, buses and trains are the
Historic Railroads
transportation options for you.
Many pioneer railroads that braved
the Wild West frontier are tourist
Traveling by Bus your own, or tour the US on an attractions today, running short
The nationwide carrier extended trip, there may be trips (often under coal­fired
Greyhound Lines serves all the a travel package just for you. steam) through some spectac­
major cities that airlines do, plus ular scenery. Many trains, running
many smaller towns along the along narrow­gauge tracks, were
way, but the travel times are Bus Tours constructed by mining or logging
much longer. On long journeys, In most states, bus companies offer companies over a century ago.
be sure to take something to eat short package trips in deluxe air­ Among the most popular rail­
and drink as meals are determined conditioned buses that tour major roads are the Durango & Silverton
by where the bus stops. attractions. These guided tours Narrow Gauge in southwestern
Buses are also a good option provide a comfortable way of Colorado (see p588), the Cumbres
for urban or suburban transpor­ seeing the sights, without having & Toltec line in New Mexico, and
tation, but because service can to worry about time schedules, the Grand Canyon Railway in
be limited in rural areas, you admission tickets, and opening Williams, Arizona, which goes to
should plan your route carefully hours. Meals and accommodation the rim of the Grand Canyon.
when visiting the countryside. are included.
Greyhound buses also provide For passengers with more time DIRECTORY
links with major airports as well to spare, you may want to try
as Amtrak services. Budget bus specialized bus companies, such as Long-distance Buses
companies such as Megabus Green Tortoise, that offer leisurely Bolt Bus
and Bolt Bus, with cheap fares trips between major cities. Tel (877) 265­8287.
and free Wi­Fi, operate on busy Passengers on these buses can ∑ boltbus.com
transport corridors such as the take breaks to camp out, prepare
Greyhound Lines
East Coast between Boston, New meals, and explore the countryside.
Tel (800) 231­2222 (24 hrs).
York, and Washington, DC and Unlike other buses, there are ∑ greyhound.com
offer cheap fares and free Wi­Fi. foam mattresses for sleeping.
Megabus
Tel (877) 462­6342.
Tickets & Reservations Traveling by Train ∑ us.megabus.com
Many bus stations are located The use of passenger trains in
in low­rent parts of town, so it is the US is dwindling. Still, there Bus Tours
usually a good idea to take a taxi is a small and enjoyable network Green Tortoise
to or from the station at night. of long­distance passenger train Tel (800) 867­8647.
Ask about discounts and special routes, operated by Amtrak, the ∑ greentortoise.com
fares including online booking national rail system. In spite of its
discounts. Most major bus lines limited network and sometimes Railroads
offer discounts for children under inconvenient schedules, a Amtrak
12, students, and senior citizens scenic train ride can be an Tel (800) 872­7245.
(with proper ID), as well as unlim­ unforgettable experience. ∑ amtrak.com
ited travel within a set period.
Cumbres & Toltec Railroad
Tickets can be bought on the day
of travel, although fares may be Train Tickets & Tel (888) 286­2737.

less expensive if they are bought Reservations ∑ cumbrestoltec.com

in advance. For advance tickets, In general, Amtrak tickets Durango & Silverton
contact Greyhound directly or should be booked in advance. Narrow Gauge
ask a travel agent. To make the most of an Amtrak Tel (888) 872­4607.
International visitors should trip, consider paying the extra ∑ durangotrain.com
know that Greyhound tickets are money to get a sleeping Grand Canyon Railway
cheaper if bought from an agent compartment, which costs Tel (800) 843­8724.
outside the US. If you plan to around $150 a night on a twin­ ∑ thetrain.com
interrupt your trip to explore on sharing basis. Meal service is
 USA At A
GlAnce
USA Through the Year 38–43
National Parks 44–47
Great American Cities 48–49
Best Scenic Routes 50–51
History of the USA 52–63
38  U S A AT A G L A N C E

USA THROUGH THE YEAR

The size and scope of the United States celebrating the nation’s diverse history
means that at almost any time of year you and culture. October and November are
can find the right weather to suit any prime time for harvest festivals, especially
activity. In the middle of winter, for example, near Thanksgiving. The year ends with a
while skiers are enjoying the deep snows variety of religious holidays, including
of the Rockies and New England, sun- Christmas, Hanukkah, Ramadan, and the
seekers flock to Florida or the Arizona African-American celebration Kwanzaa,
deserts. Both the weather and the calendar while the college and professional football
of events heat up in the summer with a seasons climax with a series of New Year’s
proliferation of county fairs, arts and Day championship games and the Super
music festivals, and other events, many Bowl finale.

guided walking tours, a fire- May

Spring work display, and concerts, Cinco de Mayo (May 5).
Spring inspires a definite sense celebrate the blossoming of the Celebrations of Mexican
of renewal all over the country. city’s famous cherry trees and culture featuring folk dancing
Wildflowers carpet the deserts, the arrival of spring. and mariachi music, take
the magnolias and cherry trees place all over the US to mark
burst into bloom, and melting April the anniversary of the Battle
snows fill streams and waterfalls Easter (date varies). This spring of Puebla.
to their annual peak. Among holiday is a study in contrasts. Kentucky Derby (first Sat
the events that celebrate the Early-morning outdoor “ Easter in May), Louisville, KY. The
season, the most symbolic are Sunrise” services are held all country’s biggest horse race
the first games of the baseball over the country, while in New and the start of the “Triple
season, which begins in April. York City, outrageously dressed Crown” championship takes
characters join in the Easter place at the end of a two-week-
March Parade down Fifth Avenue. long public party.
Academy Awards (late Feb–mid- At this time, college kids flock Wright Plus (mid- or late May),
Mar), Hollywood, CA. The movie to warm climes in Florida, Texas, Chicago, IL. You can tour
industry honors its stars with and California for their annual architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s
golden Oscars. “Spring Break.” buildings and residences during
Whale & Ocean Arts Festival Patriot’s Day (Mon nearest this annual housewalk at
(early Mar), Lahaina, HI. Lectures, Apr 18), Lexington and Oak Park.
dives, and whale-watching Concord, MA. Early-morning Spoleto Festival USA (late
celebrating the humpback re-enactments of the first May–early Jun), Charleston, SC.
whale that winters off the battles of the American The largest arts festival in
Hawaiian coast. Revolution are followed by the the United States.
Bike Week (early Mar), Daytona, country’s most famous race, Indianapolis 500 (Sun before
FL. Motorcycle racers and the Boston Marathon. Memorial Day), Indianapolis, IN.
enthusiasts congregate in New Orleans Jazz & Heritage The most famous auto race in
one of the US’s largest gatherings Festival (late Apr), New Orleans, the US draws over 100,000 fans.
of bikers. LA. Performances by top and Kinetic Sculpture Race
St. Patrick’s Day Parade emerging talents. (Memorial Day weekend), Arcata,
(weekend nearest Mar 17),
Boston, MA; New York City,
NY; Chicago, IL; San Francisco,
CA. Parades celebrating Irish
heritage are held in these major
cities. Towns such as Butte,
MT, and Savannah, GA, also
hold parties.
South by Southwest Festival
(mid-Mar), Austin, TX. An
independent pop-music and
film festival.
National Cherry Blossom
Festival (late Mar–early Apr),
Washington, DC. More than 200
events, such as exhibitions, free Bagpipers marching as part of the St. Patrick’s Day Parade, New York City
Picturesque view of San Remo apartments from Central Park, New York City
 USA THROUGH THE YEAR  39

CA. Northern California’s good-

humored culture is evident at
this three-day event, in which
human-powered sculptures
are raced over land and sea.

Summer
The Memorial Day holiday,
at the end of May, marks
the unofficial beginning of
summertime. This is prime
vacation and travel time for
students and families. It is also Independence Day fireworks light up the sky in Houston, Texas
a good time to enjoy music
festivals, usually held in idyllic July country’s most enjoyable
rural locations. The weather is Independence Day (Jul 4), blues festivals takes place in
hot and frequently humid, with Bristol, RI; Boston, MA; the home of the blues, the
afternoon storms in much of Independence, MO; Stone Mississippi Delta.
the country. Mountain near Atlanta, GA. Elvis Week (mid-Aug),
Although the entire country Memphis, TN. Also called
celebrates the Fourth of July “Deathweek,”a series of
with parades and fireworks events are held to celebrate
displays, these cities put on the life and times of Elvis
particularly good shows. Presley, leading up to the
Taste of Chicago, (early Jul), anniversary of his death on
Chicago, IL. The city’s best August 16.
food and music can be Alaska State Fair (late
experienced at an open-air Aug–Sep), Palmer, AK. This fair
party, held on the Lake is especially famous for its
Michigan waterfront. super-sized vegetables, with
Ernest Hemingway Days pumpkins and cabbages
(mid-Jul), Key West, FL. The city grown to world-record sizes
where the famous writer lived due to the state’s 24-hour
offers a week of theatrical summer sunshine.
productions, short-story US Open Tennis
Participants with rainbow-colored balloons contests, and a Hemingway Championships (Aug–Sep),
at LGBT Pride Parade, New York City look-alike competition. New York City, NY. Professional
Tanglewood Music Festival tennis players from the world
June (Jul–Aug), Lenox, MA. The over compete in this Grand
B.B. King Homecoming Festival Boston Symphony and Boston Slam tournament.
(late May/early Jun), Indianola, MS. Pops give outdoor concerts
One of the oldest and most in a beautiful Berkshire
popular of the many Deep South Mountains estate.
summer blues festivals. Newport Jazz Festival
Harvard-Yale Regatta (early Jun), (late Jul–early Aug), Newport,
New London, CT. This series of RI. Founded in 1954, this
collegiate rowing races offers popular festival draws the very
visitors a chance to observe best jazz musicians from all over
the Ivy League elite at play. the country and the world.
Red Earth Native American Hawaiian International
Festival (early–mid-Jun), Billfish Tournament (late Jul–
Oklahoma City, OK. One of the mid-Aug), Kailua-Kona, HI.
largest gatherings of Native An annual event since 1959,
American dancers and musicians this international fishing
is held at what was the last ves- tournament draws teams of
tige of “Native American Territory.” anglers from far and wide in
LGBT Pride Day (Sun in late Jun), search of record-sized marlin.
New York City, NY; San Francisco,
California. Major parades August
featuring elaborate floats and Sunflower River Blues &
festivities fill the streets of both Gospel Festival (early Aug), Opening ceremony of the annual US Open
these cities. Clarksdale, MS. One of the Tennis Championships
40  U S A AT A G L A N C E

(3.8-km) swim, a 112-mile

(180-km) bike ride, and a
26-mile (42-km) marathon run.
American Royal Rodeo
(date varies, mid-Oct to early
Nov), Kansas City, MO. One of
the country’s largest and most
prominent professional rodeo
competitions. Also features
livestock shows.
Italian Heritage Parade
(mid-Oct), San Francisco, CA.
Columbus Avenue, winding
through the city’s Italian-
The famous fiery colors of New England’s fall foliage American North Beach district,
comes alive with a parade
Texas State Fair (late Sep–mid- celebrating Italian pride.
Fall Oct), Dallas, TX. One of the Other such parades are held
During fall in New England, country’s largest state fairs, throughout the country.
the leaves of the hardwood with a focus on Texas. Oktoberfest (late Oct).
trees turn stunning shades Fall Pilgrimage (late Sep– Modeled on the famous one
of red and gold, drawing mid-Oct), Natchez, MS. A three- in Munich, beer-flavored
appreciative tourists from week-long series of events festivals are held in German
all over the world. In the celebrate antebellum neighborhoods of most large
West, wine-growing regions architecture and culture. cities in the US, as well as
celebrate the annual harvest, small German towns like New
and in the Great Lakes and October Braunfels TX, Hermann MO,
Midwest, beer lovers join the King Biscuit Blues Festival and Leavenworth, WA.
Oktoberfest celebrations in (early Oct), Helena, AR. Haunted Happenings
the nation’s many German Sponsored by the King Biscuit (throughout Oct), Salem, MA.
enclaves. The approach of flour company, the small Leading up to Halloween, the
winter and the start of the Mississippi River town of historic home of the Salem
Christmas shopping season Helena has been celebrating Witch Trials stages a series of
is kicked off by the nationally the blues since the 1920s. supernatural-themed events
televised Macy’s Thanksgiving Festivals Acadiens (early Oct), and activities.
Day parade down Broadway Lafayette, LA. Over 100,000 Halloween (Oct 31). While
in New York City. people flock to this Cajun children dress up in scary
Country capital to enjoy the costumes and beg for candy,
September unique sights, sounds, and many adults flock to raucous
Mississippi Delta Blues tastes of Louisiana life. public parties in places like Key
and Heritage Festival (mid-Sep), Ironman Triathlon (Sat nearest West, FL, and New York’s
Greenville, MS. A blues and to full moon), Kailua-Kona, HI. Greenwich Village.
African-American culture More than 1,000 of the world’s
festival in the heart of the fittest athletes take part in a November
Mississippi Delta. highly challenging series of Dia de los Muertos (Day of
Norwalk Seaport Oyster trials, combining a 2.4-mile the Dead) (Nov 1), San
Festival (mid-Sep), Norwalk, Francisco, CA. Festivities in
CT. Fireworks, antique boats, San Francisco’s Mission District
and lots of local oysters highlight this Catholic festival,
to sample. when the souls of the dead
Northeast Kingdom Fall are said to visit the living.
Foliage Festival (mid-Sep– Similar festivities take place in
early Oct), VT. Celebrating the Mexican neighborhoods across
change of seasons, as well as the country.
the brilliantly colored fall foliage, Thanksgiving (4th Thu in Nov).
several tours and events are Celebrating the survival of
held in small towns all over the pilgrims who landed at
northern Vermont. Plymouth, MA, in 1620, this
Major League Baseball holiday sees families coming
Championships (Sep–Oct). together from all over the
The nation’s top professional country to share in a massive
teams face off, with the meal of roast turkey, stuffing,
winners competing in October’s Model of a witch as part of the events for cranberry sauce, and pumpkin
World Series. Haunted Happenings, Salem pie. Many restaurants serve
 USA THROUGH THE YEAR  41

Martin Luther King Jr. Day

(3rd Mon). Events are held
around the country to honor
the birth and life of the Civil
Rights leader.
Riverwalk Mud Festival (mid-
Jan), San Antonio, TX.
While workers drain the water
to clear out downtown’s
River Walk, musicians and
artists celebrate.
Cowboy Poetry Gathering
(late Jan), Elko, NV. Cowboys
come to this town to narrate
tales, quote their very
own poems, and sing
songs about the heroic
American West.

A colorful float on parade during Mardi Gras, New Orleans February

Groundhog Day (Feb 2),
serve special Thanksgiving December Punxsutawney, PA. The star of
meals, and the town of Triple Crown of Surfing this festival is a small rodent
Plymouth, MA recreates a pilgrim (late Nov to mid-Dec), North who forecasts the beginning
Thanksgiving worship service. Shore O‘ahu, HI. The world’s of spring.
Macy’s Thanksgiving Day most prestigious surfing Mardi Gras (date varies,
Parade (Thanksgiving Day), competition usually spans Feb–Mar), New Orleans, LA.
New York City, NY. Giant three weeks, waves and Colorful parades, lavish
inflatable figures march down weather permitting. parties, and masked balls
New York’s Broadway to Boston Tea Party Re- are held. Many smaller cities
celebrate Thanksgiving and enactment (mid-Dec), Boston, hold similar celebrations.
the start of the Christmas MA. Costumed performers and
holiday season. interpreters bring to life the
famous Boston Tea Party, a
protest that played an important
role in precipitating the famous
Winter American Revolution.
Perhaps best known for New Year’s Eve (Dec 31), New
the shopping mania that leads York City, NY. The country’s
up to Christmas, winter in foremost New Year celebration
American cities is a time of starts with the countdown in
twinkling lights, ringing cash New York’s Times Square, which
registers, and occasional is televised live across Eastern
snowstorms. Department stores US and repeated (on tape) for
along New York’s Fifth Avenue, viewers elsewhere in the
Chicago’s State Street, and other country. Major New Year’s Eve
shopping districts attract parties occur in most major
shoppers with exuberant cities, with great public
displays in their store windows. celebrations in Las Vegas and Lion dance during Chinese New Year,
Many ski resorts stage special San Francisco. Chinatown, San Francisco
winter activities, such as sleigh
rides and visits from Santa Claus. January Chinese New Year (date
Winter is also the best time to New Year’s Day (Jan 1). varies, late Jan to mid-Feb),
watch the gray whale migration Parades and festivities are San Francisco, CA. To celebrate
along the Pacific Ocean, or to held all around the country Chinese New Year, colorful
observe the humpback whales and are often connected with a parades are held here, in
on the way to their winter championship college football New York City, and several
breeding grounds in Hawai‘i. game such as the Orange Bowl other cities.
February also sees a number of in Miami, the Cotton Bowl in Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race
public parades and parties, Dallas, the Sugar Bowl in New (late Feb–early Mar),
which range from the Chinese Orleans, and the Rose Bowl in Anchorage, AK. This test
New Year celebrations to the Pasadena, CA, which is usually of endurance takes packs
wild fun and festivity of Mardi preceded by a nationally of dogs and their drivers
Gras in New Orleans. televised parade. two grueling weeks.
42  U S A AT A G L A N C E

Climate of the USA

Much of the US enjoys temperate weather, but the country
is so vast that many regions experience climatic extremes.
Alaska has the harshest winter, while the warmest
temperatures are in Hawai‘i and Florida. Even within the
“Lower 48” states, the weather varies tremendously, from the
heavy snows of the Rocky Mountains to the intense heat of
Death Valley in the California desert. Besides the four main
seasons, the US also sees some unusual weather, including
destructive tornadoes that may form in spring and summer
across the Great Plains; thunderstorms that burst over the
Subarctic (Alaska)
South during summer; and powerful hurricanes that strike Though temperatures drop well
coastal areas in the Southeast in autumn. below freezing for most of the
year, the warm summers are
extended by the non-stop
daylight of the “midnight sun.”

Seattle

Portland
Helena
THE
PACIFIC
NORTHWEST Boise
THE Sioux Falls
ROCKIES

Salt Lake City Cheyenne

Omaha
San
Francisco
THE THE
CALIFORNIA Denver
SOUTHWEST GREAT
PLAINS
Temperate (California)
The West Coast’s mild Las Vegas
Los
climate is much like that of Angeles Albuquerque Oklahoma
the Mediterranean regions, City
with mild winters and long, Phoenix
sunny summers. San Diego

Dallas
TEXAS
San
Antonio

Tropical (Hawai‘i)
This island paradise is warm and Arid (Southwest)
pleasant year-round. Significant rain The hot, dry climate of the Southwestern desert draws millions of
falls in winter, usually on the visitors. Winter snows can fall at higher elevations, but sunshine is
northeastern or windward coasts. guaranteed throughout the year.
 C L I M AT E O F T H E U S A  43

Cool Temperate (New England)

Bright, sunny days followed by frosty nights cause the most
intense color in New England’s famous autumn foliage. The
region experiences warm summers and cold winters with
Cool Continental (Great Lakes) high snowfalls in certain areas.
The Great Lakes states are famous for
their frigid winters, when the region
receives the country’s heaviest snowfall.
0 kilometers 500

0 miles 500

NEW
ENGLAND
Minneapolis
Boston
Buffalo NYC &
Milwaukee Detroit THE MID-
ATLANTIC New York
REGION
Chicago
Philadelphia
THE GREAT LAKES
Washington, DC
Indianapolis
DC & THE
Kansas
City St. Louis CAPITAL REGION

Charlotte
THE
Memphis SOUTHEAST
Atlanta
THE
DEEP SOUTH Savannah

Jacksonville

Houston
New Orleans Cool Temperate (Great Plains)
FLORIDA
Chilled by arctic winds in winter, and
hit by fierce tornadoes in spring,
Miami the Midwest states usually enjoy long,
hot summers.

Warm Tropical (Florida)

The sultry climate of Florida and
the Gulf of Mexico is usually warm
and frequently very humid.
Hurricanes can hit the coast
between June and late November,
making December to April
the most popular time to visit
the region.
44  U S A AT A G L A N C E

National Parks
For many visitors, the highlight of a visit to the
US is to experience the country’s sublime
scenery and abundant wildlife. Some 84 million
acres (34 million hectares) of pristine splendor
have been preserved as national parks, found in
all of the 50 states. From Acadia National Park on
the rugged coast of Maine to the deserts of
Death Valley in California, the parks encompass
a variety of terrain, as well as the habitats of
several endangered species. Most have a full Yellowstone National Park (see pp576–7) in
Wyoming is the country’s first and oldest
range of facilities, including delightful rustic national park. Highlights include geysers and
lodges, and offer a variety of outdoor activities. the country’s largest bison herd.
Grand Teton National Park’s Badlands National Park (see p440),
(see p575) peaks make it one of South Dakota’s most important park,
Wyoming’s top sights. combines craggy sandstone formations
with mixed grass prairie.
Olympic NP
North
Cascades NP
Glacier NP
Mt. Rainier
NP
THE
THE PACIFIC ROCKIES
NORTHWEST
Yellowstone NP
Crater Lake NP
Badlands
Grand NP
Redwood NP Teton NP
Lassen
Volcanic NP
Great Rocky
CALIFORNIA Basin NP Mountain NP
Yosemite NP Bryce
THE
Kings Canyon NP
Arches NP GREAT
Canyon NP PLAINS
Mesa Verde NP
Grand
Olympic National Park Sequoia Death Canyon NP
(see p608), a UNESCO NP Valley THE
NP SOUTH-
biosphere reserve, preserves
Joshua Petrified WEST
Washington’s lush forests. Tree NP Forest NP
Death Valley Saguaro Carlsbad
National Park NP Caverns NP
TEXAS
(see pp672–3) in
Guadalupe
California’s Mesa Verde National Mountains NP
Mojave Desert, is Park’s (see p588) great
one of the cliff dwellings offer
world’s hottest glimpses of Colorado’s
places. Big Bend NP
early inhabitants.

Yosemite National Park (see

p706), a wilderness of forests, Grand Canyon National Park (see pp530–33), perhaps the most-
meadows, and granite rocks, is visited park in both Arizona and the US, is an awe-inspiring
California’s prime destination. spectacle of magnificent rock formations.
 N AT I O N A L PA R K S  45

Voyageurs National Park (see p419), an area of staggering natural

beauty, was named after French-Canadian fur trappers. Although
most visitors traverse the park’s network of lakes and streams by boat, Caribou in Denali National Park,
there are numerous hiking trails as well. Alaska
Alaska
Kobuk Valley NP
Gates of the Arctic NP
0 kilometers 500
Denali NP (see pp728–9)
0 miles 500 Wrangell St. Elias NP
Lake Clark NP
Voyageurs Acadia NP Glacier Bay NP Katmai NP
NP
Kenai Fjords NP
NEW (see p725)
ENGLAND
Hawai’i
NYC &
THE MID-ATLANTIC Haleakalā NP
GREAT REGION Hawai’i Volcanoes NP
LAKES Cuyahoga (see pp738–9)
Valley NP
Shenandoah NP
DC & THE
CAPITAL REGION
Mammoth
Cave NP
Great Smoky
Mountains NP
Great Smoky
Hot
Mountains National
Springs NP THE Park (see p264),
SOUTHEAST in Tennessee and
THE North Carolina,
DEEP SOUTH supports an incred-
ible diversity of
plant life.

FLORIDA
Acadia National Park (see p180), a wild,
unspoiled island paradise in Maine, is
Biscayne NP
crisscrossed by hiking trails that offer
Everglades NP
breathtaking coastal views. Its main
attraction, however, is the scenic 27-mile
(43-km) Loop Road.

Everglades National Park (see p321) covers a

vast expanse of low-lying wetlands at the
southern tip of Florida. This unique ecosystem
is characterized by tree islands or hammocks
that support a fantastic variety of flora and
fauna. Alligators are the park’s best-known
and most-feared residents.
46  U S A AT A G L A N C E

Exploring the National Parks fees, valid for seven days, which
range from nominal amounts
It is no exaggeration to claim that one could spend a ($1–5) at the smaller sites to
lifetime exploring the sprawling expanses of national parks upwards of $30 at prime
such as the Grand Canyon or Yosemite. Most people visit attractions. Some parks don’t
parks simply because they happen to be near one, or to see charge a fee but do collect
charges for specific activities.
specific sights such as the geysers of Yellowstone. To make If planning to visit more than
their trip more worthwhile and enjoyable, visitors should two or three parks, visitors
restrict the number of parks they intend to visit, and instead should consider an America the
explore a couple of the most appealing ones at leisure. Plan Beautiful – National Parks and
for a minimum of one full day per park. Federal Recreational Lands
Pass. Valid for one year, these
cost approximately $80, and
enjoy nature without the give admission to the bearer
Background crowds. Also try to take and passengers in the same
The world’s first national park advantage of the many well- private vehicle to all national
was established in 1872 to maintained trails to enable you parks and federal recreational
protect the geothermal to get away from the crowds lands, including national forests
wonders and wild creatures of and the traffic, and to really Bureau of Land Management
Yellowstone, on the crest of the enjoy the parks at close range. (BLM) properties. In parks
Rocky Mountains. In the years where a per-person fee is
since, a staggering 409 places of charged, the pass admits the
scenic or historical interest in Passports, Fees & Permits pass holder and three adults
the US have been given federal To help maintain their facilities, (children under 16 are free).
protection, including 59 parks most parks charge admission This pass can be bought at
within the National Park system.
America’s national parks offer
Top National Parks
visitors some of the most
Listed below, are some of the most
Volcanic/Geothermal

unforgettable wilderness
Coral Reefs & Islands
Coastal Marshlands
popular national parks in the United
Climatic Extremes

experiences anywhere in the

Dramatic Erosion

world, from stunning glacial States (in alphabetical order), including

Mountainous

lakes and lush forests to arid the top parks on the previous pages.
This chart depicts the various types of
expanses of desert.
Glaciers

landscape and geological formations

The National Park Service, that are found within each park.
a unit of the US Department
of the Interior, also manages
national seashores, battlefields,
Acadia NP, ME (see p180) 
and national historic sites
Arches NP, UT (see pp512–13) 
(such as Independence Hall Badlands NP, SD (see p440) 
in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) Biscayne NP, FL (see p322) 
and national memorials (such Bryce Canyon NP, UT (see pp518–19) 
as Mount Rushmore in Canyonlands NP, UT (see p514) 
South Dakota). Death Valley NP, CA (see pp672–3) 
Denali NP, AK (see pp728–9) 
Everglades NP, FL (see p321) 
Planning your Visit Glacier NP, MT (see p571) 
The national parks draw millions Glen Canyon & Lake Powell, AZ (see p515) 
of visitors each year. In fact, the Grand Canyon NP, AZ (see pp530–33) 
immensely popular Great Smoky Grand Teton NP, WY (see p575) 
Mountains National Park sees Great Smoky Mts. NP, TN, NC (see p264) 
over 10 million visitors annually, Hawai’i Volcanoes NP, HI (see p738) 
while more than 3 million people Mesa Verde NP, CO (see p588) 
visit comparatively remote parks
such as Yellowstone and
Mount Rainer NP, WA (see pp614–15) 
Yosemite. To avoid the crowds,
Olympic NP, WA (see p608) 
aim to visit the parks outside
Rocky Mountain NP, CO (see p583) 
the peak summer season (June– Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP, CA (see p707) 
August), when they are full Shenandoah NP, VA (see p223) 
to capacity. Voyageurs NP, MN (see p419) 
While the most popular parks Yellowstone NP, WY (see pp576–7) 
are the jewels in the crown of Yosemite NP, CA (see p706) 
US public lands, there are many Zion NP, UT (see p517) 
quieter parks where you can
 N AT I O N A L PA R K S  47

DIRECTORY
Bureau of Land
Management
Tel (202) 208-3516.
∑ blm.gov

National Park Campground

Reservations
Tel (877) 444-6777.
∑ recreation.gov

National Parks Pass

∑ nps.gov/findapark/
passes.htm
National Park Service
∑ nps.gov ∑ ohranger.com

US Forest Service
Visitors overlooking Thunder Hole, Acadia National Park, Maine Tel (800) 832-1355.
∑ fs.fed.us
any park entrance, or in privileges as the Senior Pass,
advance via the Internet (www. is issued free to US citizens or
store.usgs.gov/pass). US citizens permanent residents with Most parks have campsites for
or permanent residents over permanent disabilities. both tents and RVs but these
the age of 62 are eligible for the Documentation of disability are often “unserviced,” with no
Senior Pass (for a one-time $10 is required. RV hookups for electricity, water,
fee), a lifetime pass to national or sewage. Campsites usually
parks, monuments, historic sites, cost $10–50 a night. The US
recreation areas, and wildlife Types of Accommodation Forest Service and Bureau of
refuges. It admits the pass Visitor facilities vary from Land Management campsites
holder and accompanying park to park. Some provide are less expensive and more
passengers in a private very basic amenities, while readily available.
vehicle (if there is a per- others, especially the
vehicle fee), or up to popular ones, have
four adults (at sites deluxe hotels close
with per-person fees). by. It is advisable to
It also provides a 50 make reservations for
percent discount on overnight accommodation
federal fees charged well in advance of
Wildlife warning sign
for various facilities and your visit. Some parks
can be obtained in make reservations
person from a federal area, on a first-come-first-served
such as a national park or basis only, so the sooner you
monument. The Access Pass, arrive at your destination, Shark Valley Visitor Center, Everglades
which has the same lifetime the better. National Park

Practical Tips for Visiting the Parks

• Wear appropriate clothing – sturdy boots, a • Talk softly when on park trails to improve your
protective hat, plus waterproof or warm clothing, chances of spotting wildlife.
depending on the conditions. • Do not wander off on your own, and do
• Carry plenty of drinking water, a pair of binoculars, not venture off marked park trails; it is not
a first-aid kit, sun screen, and insect repellant. only hazardous if you encounter dangerous
• Do not litter. Use the litter bins provided, or carry animals but it is also easy to get lost in
your waste out of the park. the wilderness.
• Do not play loud music or blow car horns within • Be sure to tell a friend or fellow traveler your
park limits, as this disturbs everyone, including itinerary; in case you don’t return on time they
the wildlife. can inform the park ranger.
• Do not interfere, provoke, or try to feed • Observe and obey all signs throughout the
any wildlife. individual park regarding speed limits, food,
• Hunting is prohibited and visitors found in animals, water, and all other safety precautions.
violation will face heavy penalties. Following these rules and regulations will
• Do not approach bears or other wild animals; they enhance your enjoyment of the park and
can be extremely dangerous. keep both you and the wildlife safe.
48  U S A AT A G L A N C E

Great American Cities

One of the main attractions of visiting the US is the chance
of enjoying its many great cities. They vary from Colonial-
era, pedestrian-friendly places such as Boston, with its
distinctly European ambience, to the frenzied modern
metropolis of Los Angeles, where no one walks, except to
and from the car. In between, there is a wide range of cities,
each with its own history and culture. Washington, DC, the
capital, is known for its political focus and national galleries;
Miami offers a spicy taste of Latin America; New Orleans is
packed with multicultural music, food, and fun; and New
York and Chicago are famous for their architecture and
exciting nightlife. On the West Coast, San Francisco and
Seattle have picturesque settings and vibrant arts scenes. Seattle (see pp604–7) has risen from
the ashes of the Great Fire of 1889
All in all, cities here have something for everyone. to become a prosperous city of
gleaming skyscrapers, upscale
shops, and giant companies such
as Microsoft, Amazon.com,
and Starbucks.

Seattle

Portland
Helena
THE
PACIFIC
NORTHWEST Boise
THE Sioux Falls
ROCKIES

Salt Lake City Cheyenne

Omaha
San
Francisco
THE THE
Denver
SOUTHWEST GREAT
CALIFORNIA PLAINS
Las Vegas
Los
San Francisco’s (see pp682–99) Angeles
Albuquerque Oklahoma
many hills, Golden Gate, and City
rich ethnic mix give it a distinctive San Diego
character, in keeping with Phoenix
its status as the West Coast’s
cultural capital. Dallas
El Paso
TEXAS
0 km 250

0 miles 250
San
Antonio

Dallas (see pp472–3) in many ways is

synonymous with the wealth of Texan oil
fields and cattle. Today, it is both the state’s
financial and entertainment center.

Los Angeles (see pp646–65) is often associated with

movies, the glamor of Hollywood, the luxury of
residential Beverly Hills, and the excitement of Sunset
Boulevard. Yet this vibrant city is also home to some of
the country’s finest museums and galleries as well as the
most popular beaches along the Pacific Ocean.
 G R E AT A M E R I C A N C I T I E S  49

Chicago (see pp384–95), located on the southwestern edge of Lake

Michigan, is famous throughout the world for its magnificent,
innovative architecture. New building techniques were perfected
here, and it was here too that architects, such as Frank Lloyd Wright
and others, created masterpieces of modern design.

Philadelphia (see pp108–15), where the

Declaration of Independence was signed on
Boston (see pp138–55) is
July 4, 1776, is the birthplace of America. Today, justly proud of its past. While
this “City of Brotherly Love” is one of the country’s its Colonial heritage is reflected
most popular destinations. in its buildings, the city also
includes numerous important
sites directly related to America’s
fight for freedom.

NEW
ENGLAND
Minneapolis
NYC & Boston
Milwaukee Detroit THE MID-
ATLANTIC New York
REGION
Chicago
Philadelphia
THE GREAT LAKES
Washington, DC
Indianapolis
DC & THE
Kansas CAPITAL New York (see pp74–99),
City St. Louis REGION the “Big Apple,” is one of
the world’s great cities.
Nashville Charlotte One aspect of its
THE character lies in
Memphis SOUTHEAST its striking modern
Atlanta architecture. Others
THE revolve around its
DEEP SOUTH Savannah many outstanding
museums, its ethnic
Jacksonville neighborhoods,
and the choice
Houston New Orleans of entertainment.
FLORIDA

New Orleans (see pp342–51) is a fun Miami

city of jazz, bars, restaurants, and the
always lively Mardi Gras celebrations.

Miami’s (see pp290–99) focus of action

concentrates on South Beach, with its Art
Deco hotels and trendy nightlife.

Washington, DC (see pp200–15), the nation’s

capital, is an impressive city of classical
architecture and grand, tree-lined avenues.
Beside its political focus, the city also
has a cultural heart, with museums
located along the Mall.
50  U S A AT A G L A N C E

Best Scenic Routes

One of the great pleasures of traveling in the
US is the chance to explore its many scenic
highways and byways. From quiet rural lanes
to breathtaking coastal drives, they offer
glimpses of the land’s abundant natural beauty,
and provide an opportunity to get to know its
many inviting small towns. Many of the best-
known routes are also historic and follow in
the footsteps of the pioneer wagon trains, the
Pony Express, or along trails taken by Civil War
soldiers. For additional information on scenic Going-to-the-Sun Road (see p571) cuts across
Glacier National Park, following the steep Rocky
routes, visit www.fhwa.dot.gov/byways. Mountain cliffs. The route offers breathtaking
mountain views.
Historic Columbia River Highway
(see p620) offers incomparable views Seattle
of Oregon’s diverse landscape, WA
including Mount Hood’s snowcapped Mis
summit. It also passes several
Col u
mb ia 90 s o u ri
Portland
waterfalls and lush orchards. MT ND

5 OR 94
ID
15
Eureka SD
WY

80
80
NE
San NV
Francisco UT
CO 70

Big Sur CA 15 o
d
lo
ra KS
Co
5

40
OK
Los
Angeles 8
AZ Oklahoma
25
NM City
10
20

TX
Pacific Coast Highway
(Highway 1) was named
California’s first scenic
highway in 1966. One of the 0 km 250
world’s most stunning drives, 0 miles 250
its most beautiful stretch is
through Big Sur.

Route 66 (see p457), from Chicago to Los Angeles, is perhaps America’s best-loved highway. Much of the
original route remains intact, offering a nostalgic cruise across the country’s heartland.
 BEST SCENIC ROUTES  51

Route 100 winds from north to south

in the valleys between the ridges of
Vermont’s green mountains. This
country road attracts “leaf peepers,”
who come here to enjoy the state’s
famous fall foliage.

Key
Columbia River Scenic Highway
70 miles (113 km), 3–5 hours
Blue Ridge Parkway 469 miles
(755 km), 2 days
Natchez Trace Parkway 425 miles
(684 km), 2 days
Going-to-the-Sun Road 50 miles
(80 km), 2–3 hours
Pacific Coast Highway 930 miles
(1,497 km), 4 days
Route 66 2,400 miles (3,864 km),
11 days
ME Great River Road 2,069 miles
MN 3,331 km), 10 days
Lowell
Route 100 200 miles (322 km), 1 day
WI 87 VT NH
Minneapolis NY 93

94 MI MA
Wilmington
La Crescent CT RI
La Crosse
29 IA 80 PA New York
Davenport Chicago NJ
IN OH 81
IL
Miss s i p

Washington, DC DE
MD
is

p 70
65 75 WV Warren
MO
i

St. Louis Roanoke VA

35 KY
Nashville NC
95
40
TN Asheville
i SC
AR
p

55
Mississip

Tupelo
59 GA
25
AL 75
MS 10
Natchez
LA New
Orleans 95

FL Blue Ridge Parkway (see pp222 & 251)

Natchez Trace Parkway
(see p362), between links Shenandoah National Park, VA and the
Nashville, TN and Natchez, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, NC. Over
MS, cuts across the densely 20 million visitors travel along the road as it
wooded trail taken by traverses the crest of the southern Appalachians.
frontier traders more than
a century earlier.

Great River Road follows most

of the course of the Mississippi,
from its source in Minnesota to
the Gulf of Mexico. Running
along both banks of the river,
the route takes in areas of great
scenic beauty and many historic
sites as well as large towns, such
as St. Louis and New Orleans.
 U S A AT A G L A N C E  53

HISTORY OF THE USA

Man first entered North America from Siberia some 13,000 years ago, migrating
over the Bering Strait land bridge, which stood between Siberia and Alaska.
Native American civilizations thrived here for at least 10,000 years before the
United States of America was officially founded as a country in 1776 by European
settlers, who had been visiting the continent since the 16th century.

Although the early people were mostly Competing Colonies

hunter-gatherers, the ruins of ancestral The long rivalry between Spain, France,
Puebloan towns, such as Mesa Verde and Great Britain continued with the
(Colorado) and the giant pyramids at discovery of the New World in 1492.
Cahokia (near St. Louis), provide evidence Spain founded the first successful North
of more complex cultures. American colonies, in Florida in 1565
and New Mexico in 1598, combining
Early European Explorers commercial and religious interests.
European exploration began in earnest France’s first permanent settlement was
after the pioneering voyages of Columbus, at Quebec (1608), while the Dutch set
who reached the Caribbean in 1492, and up a trading post (1624) at the mouth
John Cabot, who “discovered” Newfoundland of the Hudson River. However, it was the
in 1497. Early explorers were astonished by English who gained control, with colonies
the quantity of natural resources they in Virginia (1607), New England (1620),
encountered here. Fur-bearing animals such and Pennsylvania (1681). Many early
as beavers were quickly exploited for their colonists died of disease and malnutrition.
pelts. Once Europeans began to investigate Virginia eventually became the most
further, they were able to draw heavily on the lucrative New World colony, thanks to
indigenous peoples’ detailed knowledge, and the production of tobacco. By 1700, these
use their pre-existing trails to explore the English colonies’ population was 250,000,
continent. An early map of 1507 displays the excluding Native Americans, while only
name “America,” taken from one of the New some 1,000 non-Native Americans lived in
World’s early explorers, Amerigo Vespucci. Spanish or French regions.

Christopher Columbus sets foot in the New World on October 12, 1492
George Washington before Yorktown, painted by Rembrandt Peale between 1824 and 1825
54  U S A AT A G L A N C E

were imported in great

numbers, reaching a total
of 150,000, 40 percent of
the population, by 1750.
The American Revolution
began swiftly, and
transformed the face of the
world in a few short years.
The removal of a potential
French threat, following
John Trumbull’s 1786 painting of the Battle of Bunker Hill Britain’s conquest of Canada
in the Seven Years’ War, led
The American Revolution to American complaints about British abuse,
The 18th century was a period of significant epitomized by the phrase “No Taxation
change throughout the world, and this was without Representation.” In 1770, British
especially true in North America. Colonists troops opened fire on a group of unruly
expanded their domain, displacing or killing workers, killing five in what became known
the native tribes through a combination as the Boston Massacre. In 1773, some
of land purchases, warfare, and disease. colonial merchants disguised as Mohawk
In the southern colonies of Virginia and warriors dumped a boatload of tea into
Carolina, where the lack of available land Boston Harbor, to protest Britain’s
discouraged new immigrants, African slaves monopoly of the tea trade.
War broke out in April 1775, when
KEY DATES IN HISTORY British “Redcoats” marched on the town
of Concord in an attempt to seize a
1763 The Seven Years’ War ends, France surrenders
its Great Lakes lands to Great Britain stockpile of weapons from the American
“Minutemen.” As the British fought their way
1773 Boston Tea Party
back to Boston, more than 75 Redcoats and
April 19, 1775 The Revolutionary War begins
over 90 Americans were killed. On July 4
1776 The Declaration of Independence is adopted 1776, Congress adopted the Declaration
in Philadelphia
of Independence, and this marked the
1783 Treaty of Paris puts an end to the
founding of the USA. The British occupied
Revolutionary War
New York City, while the ill-equipped
1789 George Washington becomes the first
President of the US
Americans struggled through a harsh
winter. After victories at Saratoga (1777)
1790 A 100-mile (160-km) square on the Maryland/
Virginia border, Washington, the District of Columbia, and Yorktown (1781), America eventually
is set aside as the new capital succeeded, largely due to French support,
1793 Samuel Slater’s water-powered mill at Pawtucket, and the war officially ended in 1783.
Rhode Island, brings the Industrial Revolution to the US
1803 Ohio is the first of the Northwest Territories to
become a state
1803 The Louisiana Purchase
1814 Francis Scott Key composes “The Star-
Spangled Banner”
1824 The Bureau of Indian Affairs, a division of the
US War Department, is formed to handle relations
with Native American tribes
1832 Resisting removal of his people from their tradi-
tional homelands, Chief Black Hawk leads a band of
1,000 Fox-Sauk warriors but is destroyed by the US Army The Boston Tea Party: patriots disguised as Mohawk warriors
dumping tea into Boston Harbor
 HISTORY OF THE USA  55

George Washington holding a copy of the US Constitution, surrounded by Founding Fathers, 1787

Birth of a Nation DC. Ironically, the war was ended by a

By 1783, the newly formed United States peace treaty that was signed two weeks
of America had a border that extended as before its biggest skirmish – the Battle of
far west as the Mississippi River. Washington New Orleans – took place in January 1815.
became the first President (1789–97), and a After the War of 1812, the US abandoned
new Constitution was officially adopted in hopes of annexing Canada, and so began
1788; in 1791 the ten amendments of the its great push westward. Settlers poured
“Bill of Rights” were added, enumerating each into the Great Plains, Oregon, and
citizen’s freedom of speech, press, religion, eventually the northern periphery of the
and public assembly. In 1800, the capital Republic of Mexico, including Texas and
moved from Philadelphia to the newly California. The Santa Fe Trail, open for trade
created city of Washington, DC, which by by 1823, brought New Mexico under US
now had a population of 3,200 people. influence. By 1850, there was an extensive
communications network. Steamboat
Manifest Destiny traffic dominated the rivers, augmented
America expanded greatly in its early by canals and cross-country railroads.
years, first opening the “Northwest Territory” The consolidation of western lands
lands along the Great Lakes in 1787. The encouraged millions of pioneers to migrate
Louisiana Purchase of 1803 added a huge west and forge new lives for themselves.
area of western lands formerly controlled By the mid-19th century, people had grown
by France. This rapid expansion created accustomed to the idea that the country
the need to survey the new territories. would stretch undivided across the
Lewis and Clark’s famed cross-continental continent, from ocean to ocean. This
expedition between 1803 and 1806 idea, in the words of populist journalist
was funded by Congress at the express John L. O’Sullivan, was the country’s
request of President Thomas Jefferson. “Manifest Destiny.” Orderly settlement was
The first test of strength for this new made possible by the official survey and
independent country came in 1812, when division of these lands into rectangular
the US found itself caught in the middle of sections, each one square mile in area.
an ongoing war between France and Great Overland trails were opened leading
Britain. Though both countries agreed to west to the gold fields of California,
stop interfering with American ships, US which itself became a state in 1850.
forces attacked British interests in Canada, By 1860, more than half the population
and in retaliation the British burned the lived west of the Appalachian Mountains,
Capitol and White House in Washington, compared to less than 10 percent in 1800.
56  U S A AT A G L A N C E

States took over Texas in 1845, a move

that set off war with Mexico. This war
in turn led to the US confiscation of
California and much of the Southwest.
In 1848, Mexico yielded nearly half
of its territory; the cession of the
northern Oregon territory by Britain
in 1846, and James Gadsden’s 1853
purchase of 30,000 sq miles (78,000
sq km) in the Southwest completed
An 1891 illustration depicting Native Americans fighting US soldiers the westward expansion. Thus, in
less than 50 years, the country had
Territorial Conflict more than tripled in size.
Although involved in conflicts with Britain
over Canada, the US managed to resolve The Destruction of the
these issues peacefully. However, this was Native Americans
not so with Mexico, which feared US Since the 1500s, diseases such as small
territorial ambitions, especially after pox and syphilis had wiped out almost
President Andrew Jackson offered to 90 percent of some tribes. As European
purchase Texas. The crisis accelerated after settlement increased, forced relocation of
Texas declared independence from Mexico tribes became frequent. It reached its peak
in 1835. Turning a blind eye to Native with the forced march of most of the
American tribes (and the legal ownership Cherokee Nation from the southeast to
of much of the land by Spain), the United Oklahoma along the “Trail of Tears.” As
Europeans spread westward, tribes were
KEY DATES IN HISTORY forced onto reservations, often the poorest
and most desolate lands, where many
1838 US Government forcibly expels native
Cherokees westward along the “Trail of Tears” remain even today. The building of the
1846–1848 Mexican War. US acquires Arizona,
transcontinental railroads in the late 19th
California, Utah, Nevada, and New Mexico century opened the West to hunters who
1859 Abolitionist John Brown raids the Federal eventually killed millions of buffalo. Within
Armory at Harpers Ferry a few hundred years, North America’s
1861 Confederates attack Fort Sumter in indigenous cultures had been destroyed
South Carolina or marginalized by Europeans, who
1861 The Battle of Bull Run (Manassas), the first transformed the continent into a world
major land battle of the Civil War
economic, industrial, and political power.
Jan 1, 1863 President Abraham Lincoln issues the
Emancipation Proclamation, freeing slaves in areas Civil War
controlled by the Confederate army
July, 1863 Union forces defeat General Robert E. Lee
Between independence in 1783 and 1860,
and the Confederacy at Gettysburg two very different societies developed
April 9, 1865 Robert E. Lee surrenders to within the US. In the North, there emerged
Union General Ulysses Grant at Appomattox Court an industrialized society, committed to
House, Virginia
liberal banking and credit systems, and
April 14, 1865 President Lincoln assassinated by a protective tariffs, whereas the South was
Confederate sympathizer, John Wilkes Booth, in
Washington, DC a less populous, agrarian society opposed
Dec 18, 1865 The 13th amendment to the US
to the sale of public land in the Midwest,
Constitution is adopted, effectively putting an end to high duties, and restrictions on slavery.
slavery in the US The causes of the Civil War are still up for
1870 African-Americans granted full citizenship debate. Though slavery was clearly the
divisive issue, the war was not fought to
 HISTORY OF THE USA  57

free the slaves. Instead, the battle lines attacked Fort Sumter in South Carolina.
were drawn over the question of extending President Lincoln mobilized US soldiers
slavery into the newly forming western to quell the rebellion, and soon four other
states. The South, resisting the federal slave-holding states, including Virginia,
government’s growing power, wanted seceded from the Union. Richmond
each new state to decide this question became the new Confederate capital, and
independently. The northern states wanted Virginia provided most of the Confederate
to keep slavery within its current limits, military leadership. Four slave states
in part to protect their own manual labor. remained in the Union, and the western
The federal government left the decision to counties of Virginia separated to form West
the new states, and riots between pro- and Virginia, which joined the Union in 1863.
anti-slave campaigners raged across the The Confederates won the first major land
west. In 1856, pro-slave guerrillas burned battle at Manassas, Virginia, in July 1861, and
the city of Lawrence, Kansas, and 200 for the next two years battles raged across
people were killed in retaliation. Three years Virginia and Maryland. With their defeat at
later, 22 abolitionists led by John Brown Gettysburg in 1863, the Confederates were
attacked the Federal Armory at Harpers finally turned back. In the same year, Union
Ferry, Virginia, hoping to incite a slave forces gained control of the Mississippi River.
rebellion. He and his forces were killed, Union forces destroyed Atlanta in 1864 and
but his efforts further polarized the already marched across Georgia, cutting off supply
divided nation. By 1860, the country was lines and virtually encircling the remaining
composed of 18 “free states” – mainly in the Confederate army. By April 1865, the Civil
North, and 15 “slave states” – mainly in the War was over.
South. When Abraham Lincoln was elected The destruction caused by the war
president in 1860, South Carolina seceded was immense. Nearly three million soldiers
from the Union, followed by six other (some 10 percent of the total population
southern states, which joined together at the time) fought in the war, and 620,000
to form the Confederate States of America. of them died. Entire cities lay in ruins,
The first shots of the Civil War were fired and it would be years before the nation
in April, 1861, when the Confederates recovered from the ravages of war.

Confederate forces occupy Fort Sumter, South Carolina, on April 15, 1861
58  U S A AT A G L A N C E

The Wild West brief period, the pace of life was altered
The end of the 19th century was a time by the growth of railroads, the telegraph,
of radical change across the country. the telephone, the airplane, and the auto­
The conquered South and the newly mobile. Railroads brought the once­
freed slaves suffered the ravages of the distant West within reach of eastern
Reconstruction, while in the West, Native markets, and the frontier towns that
Americans saw their lands taken away appeared along the railroads were often
and their lifestyles destroyed. Their lawless places. During this
culture’s death knell was sounded post­Civil War period, the
in 1862, when the Homestead Act US became an international
granted 160 acres (65 ha) of land power, buying Alaska from
to any white settler, freed slave, or Russia in 1867, then taking over
single woman. The Army battled Hawai’i in 1893, the Philippines
Native American tribes across in 1899, and Panama in 1903.
the Great Plains in the 1870s
and 1880s, and resistance in the Immigration,
Southwest desert came to an end Urbanization &
Buffalo Bill’s Wild West
with the surrender of Apache chief poster, 1900
Industrialization
Geronimo in 1886. While stories of the Wild West
In the East and Midwest, massive mills captivated people’s imagination, the most
and factories replaced local producers, as significant development was the increasing
the population shifted from self­sufficient importance of industrialization. The rapid
farms to chaotic city life. In a relatively demographic shift from small towns and
farms to big cities and factories was
KEY DATES IN HISTORY inevitable. This change was made possible
in part by waves of immigration that
1867 Russia sells Alaska for $7.2 million
doubled the population in a few decades.
1869 First transcontinental railroad is completed In the 1880s, over six million immigrants
when the Union Pacific and Central Pacific meet at
Promontory, Utah arrived, and by the first decade of the
1876 The Battle of Little Big Horn, Montana
20th century a million people were arriving
every year. By World War I, the population
1876 The US Supreme Court legalizes “separate but
equal” facilities for whites and non­whites, reached 100 million, 15 percent of whom
sanctioning racial segregation were foreign born. The majority settled
1884 New York and Boston telephone link in East Coast cities, and for the first time
1886 The Statue of Liberty erected in New York
in US history the population was
predominantly urban.
1898 USS Maine explodes in Havana, sparking
Spanish­American War The consolidation of the population
was mirrored by a consolidation in industry
1915 The Lincoln Highway from New York City to
San Francisco is the first trans­continental highway and business. By 1882, John D. Rockefeller’s
1915 The “Great Migration” of African­Americans to
Standard Oil Company had a monopoly
northern cities begins in the petroleum industry, followed by
April 6, 1917 US declares war on Germany other effective monopolies, legally
organized as “trusts,” in tobacco products,
1925 Fundamentalist Christians ban the teaching of
the theory of evolution in many states banking, and steel. These corporations’
1929 The US stock market crash
abuse of monopoly power was exposed
by such writers as Upton Sinclair and Frank
1934 Benny Goodman’s orchestra popularizes
“Swing” jazz Norris. Political movements too resisted
the rise of corporations, finding an ally
1939 The first regular commercial TV
broadcasts begin in “trust­busting” President Theodore
Roosevelt, who also made significant
 HISTORY OF THE USA  59

Cartoon of Uncle Sam welcoming immigrants into the “US Ark of Refuge”

steps toward protecting the natural drug-and alcohol-fuelled lifestyles of

environment from the ravages of the Roaring Twenties.
unrestrained industrial development.
The early 20th century also saw the The Great Depression &
growth of labor unions, which staged the “New Deal”
successful and sometimes violent strikes The Wall Street Crash of 1929 shattered
to improve pay and conditions, and helped millions of dreams and left many Americans
protect children from working in factories. destitute. Farmers and black people in
cities and rural areas were particularly
Boom & Bust hard hit, as banks withdrew funding.
Involvement in World War I confirmed Unemployment and the gross domestic
America’s position as a world power, product dropped to half of what it was in
drawing the nation away from its long- the 1920s. Extended drought and sustained
cherished isolationism. But, after the war, winds caused such destruction that the
soldiers returned home from Europe to Great Plains was dubbed the “Dust Bowl,”
severe unrest, with labor strikes and race forcing some 200,000 Great Plains farmers
riots. This economic depression caused to migrate west to California.
enormous suffering and changed the The Republican government, which had
domestic role of the government forever. promoted the boom and was blamed for
The 1920s, known as the “Jazz Age,” saw an the crash, was rejected by the electorate,
explosion of artistic creativity, especially in leading to the 1932 election of Democrat
popular music. Architectural and engineering Franklin Delano Roosevelt. In his first 100
landmarks were constructed, and the rising days in office, Roosevelt established federal
popularity of the automobile government relief programs
encouraged the building of (the “New Deal”) to revitalize
the first transcontinental the economy, provide jobs, and
highways, which linked aid those who were hurt by the
the nation and gave rise economic downturn. Roosevelt
to the first suburbs. also set up regulatory bodies to
This creativity coincided help prevent economic turmoil
with Prohibition (1920–33), in the future. Although millions
when the sale of alcohol of dollars of federal funding
was made illegal. Ironically, were spent on relief, 20 percent
it was Prohibition itself Duke Ellington, celebrated icon of of Americans still continued
that led to the freewheeling, the Jazz Age to be unemployed in 1939.
60  U S A AT A G L A N C E

during World War II, gained renewed

importance. The Cold War also encouraged
alliances with other nations. America’s
powerful influence, and investment
overseas was seen as a way to bind other
nations to the capitalist sphere. The
Marshall Plan of 1948 provided $13 billion
to aid reconstruction of postwar western
Europe and reduce Communist influence.
The battleships USS West Virginia and Tennessee burning after the Economic and social developments were
Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor often overshadowed by the specter of
nuclear war. The Korean War (1950–53) was
The Cold War the first of many fought to stop the spread
The Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941 of Communism. Fear on the domestic front
and the subsequent US entry into World War inspired years of anti-Communist “Witch
II marked the beginning of America’s new Trials,” such as those conducted by Senator
role in international politics. With the onset Joseph McCarthy. Cold War fears also led to
of the Cold War with the Soviet Union, the numerous military operations around the
numerous US military bases, established world, including the CIA-led coup in
Guatemala in 1954, an ill-fated invasion
KEY DATES IN HISTORY of Cuba in 1961, the Cuban Missile Crisis
in 1962, and the Vietnam War of the 1960s
Dec 7, 1941 Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor
and 1970s, the longest and most costly
1945 The UN established in San Francisco
of attempts to contain the perceived
Aug 14, 1945 After US bombing of Hiroshima and
Nagasaki, Japan surrenders, ending WW II Communist threat.
1961 Alan Shepard is the first American in outer space;
The Soviet invasion of Afghanistan in
the Soviets erect the Berlin Wall 1979 revived the Cold War for another
1962 Naval blockade against Soviet missile bases decade, but with the collapse of the
in Cuba Soviet Union in 1991, the United States
1963 Assassination of John F. Kennedy, Dallas became the world’s only superpower.
1968 Martin Luther King Jr. assassinated
1969 Neil Armstrong walks on the moon Postwar Prosperity
1974 Richard Nixon resigns after Watergate Unlike much of the rest of the world, this
1989 Fall of Berlin Wall; end of Cold War was one of the most prosperous periods
1990–91 The Gulf War in US history. The economy, stimulated by
Sept 11, 2001 Terrorist attacks on New York City & mobilization of industry during World War II,
Washington, DC and the arms race with the Soviet Union
2003 Space shuttle Columbia explodes, killing all were key factors in creating unprecedented
on board affluence. As manufacturing switched to a
2003 George W. Bush declares war on Iraq peacetime mode, consumer durables flowed
2005 Hurricane Katrina wreaks havoc in New Orleans into the marketplace. America’s position at
and other cities of Louisiana and Mississippi, displacing
more than 500,000 people the hub of the international trading system
2008 Banking collapse triggers recession gave her access to crucial foreign markets.
2012 Barack Obama is re-elected to a second term as
Home ownership was brought within
president of the United States reach of middle-class Americans, thanks to
2014 One World Trade Center opens in Manhattan, government supports and mass-production
New York City, at the site of the 2001 terrorist attack construction techniques. Most adults owned
2015 Supreme Court legalizes same-sex marriage a car, and consumer products, such as
2015 Pope Francis visits the US refrigerators, washers, dryers, and dish-
washers, multiplied within the home.
 HISTORY OF THE USA  61

Civil Rights Movement

As black Americans migrated from the rural
south to urban centers in the 1940s and
1950s, whites abandoned city life for the
suburbs, taking their tax dollars with them.
The financial crisis was made worse by the
decline of traditional industries, and
many cities during the 1960s and 1970s
suffered as well. Housing deteriorated,
roads went unrepaired, and poverty, crime,
and racial tension were common features
of many urban areas. Poverty was not
confined to the inner cities; people in
rural areas in the Deep South and the
Appalachians were some of the most
deprived in the country.
The new postwar opportunities
were denied to many African-Americans, Reverend Martin Luther King Jr. delivering a sermon at the
particularly in the still-segregated South. Ebenezer Baptist Church, Atlanta
Aided by a 1954 Supreme Court judgment
that ruled segregation in schools and recession. In the 1980s, computers and
unconstitutional, African-Americans other digital devices began to change the
fought for an end to discrimination. In way Americans communicated. The
1955, a bus boycott initiated by Rosa Internet opened new ways of working and
Parks in Montgomery, Alabama, forced the generated large amounts of wealth. By the
company to end segregation. The success turn of the millennium, the Internet-fueled
inspired similar protests throughout the boom went bust, causing the economy to
South. In 1964 and 1965, Congress passed fall into recession. The controversial
legislation banning racial discrimination. election of George W. Bush in 2001
The 1960s also saw a rise in political dominated the news and showed that the
consciousness among other groups; protests American public was deeply divided over
against the Vietnam War grew in number, crucial issues.
and in the 1970s, the women’s movement The terrorist attacks on New York and
made some progress towards achieving an Washington, DC in September 2001
end to sexual discrimination. A tide of instigated the launch of the “war against
environmentalism also swept the country, terror” by President Bush. This resulted in a
culminating in 1970 with the creation of the war against the Taliban in Afghanistan in
US Environmental Protection Agency. During 2002 and another to oust Saddam Hussein
the AIDS crisis of the late 1980s, homosexuality in Iraq in 2003. Economic stress from five
became an increasingly accepted aspect of years of warfare combined with deregulation
life, with gay and lesbian couples earning of the financial sector resulted in crisis for
greater legal protections. During his second the economy in late 2008. Barack Obama
term, President Obama supported same-sex won the elections the same year, becoming
marriage and in 2015, same-sex marriage the first African-American president and he
was legalized by the Supreme Court. was re-elected in 2012. In November 2016,
Republican businessman Donald Trump won
The Modern Era the general election against Democratic
The postwar boom ended in the early nominee Hillary Clinton. He is the oldest and
1970s, with the Vietnam War and the richest president, with no previous
energy crisis producing prolonged inflation experience in public service, in US history.
62  U S A AT A G L A N C E

The American Presidents Key to Timeline

Federalist
The presidents of the United States have come from all walks Democratic Republican
of life; at least two were born in a log cabin – Abraham Whig
Lincoln and Andrew Jackson. Others, such as Franklin D. Republican
Roosevelt and John F. Kennedy, came from privileged Democrat
backgrounds. Millard Fillmore attended a one-room
schoolroom, and Jimmy Carter raised peanuts. Many,
including Ulysses S. Grant and Dwight D. Eisenhower, were Millard Fillmore William McKinley
military men, who won public popularity for their great (1850–53) (1897–1901)
achievements in battle. Zachary
Taylor
(1849–50)
Franklin Pierce
James K. Polk (1853–57) Benjamin Harrison
(1845–49) (1889–93)
W.H. Harrison
(1841)
Chester A. Arthur
(1881–85)

Rutherford B. Hayes
(1877–81)
George Washington
(1789–97) was a
Revolutionary War
general. He was James Madison (1809–17), Andrew
unanimously chosen to known as the Father of the Johnson
be the first president of Constitution, was co-author (1865–69)
the United States. of the Federalist Papers.

1775 1800 1825 1850 1875

1775 1800 1825 1850 1875

John Adams James John Tyler James A.

(1797–1801), Monroe (1841–45) Garfield
a lawyer and (1817–25) (1881)
historian, was the
first president John Quincy Ulysses S.
to live in Adams Martin Van Grant
the White (1825–29) Buren (1869–77)
House. (1837-41) Grover
Cleveland
James (1885–89)
Buchanan Abraham Lincoln
Thomas Jefferson (1857–61) (1861–65) won the
(1801–1809), architect, epithet, “the Great
inventor, landscape Andrew Jackson Emancipator”, for his
designer, diplomat, and (1829–37) defeated role in the abolition of
historian, was the the British at the slavery. He led the
quintessential Battle of New Union through the
Renaissance man. Orleans in the War Civil War. Grover
of 1812. Cleveland
(1893–97)
 HISTORY OF THE USA  63

Harry S. Truman (1945–

53) made the decision to
drop the atomic bombs
on Hiroshima and
Nagasaki in 1945.

Woodrow Wilson (1913–21) John F. Kennedy (1961–63) was one of the most
led the country through popular presidents. He sent the first astronaut into
World War I and paved the space, started the Peace Corps, and created the
way for the League of Nations. Arms Control and Disarmament Agency. His
assassination rocked the nation.

Richard Nixon
(1969–74) opened
up China and sent
the first men to the
moon. He resigned
after the Watergate
Franklin D. scandal.
Roosevelt (1933–
45) started the
“New Deal”, a Jimmy Carter (1977–81),
reform and relief who brokered the peace
program, during accord between Israel
the Great and Egypt, won the 2002
Depression. He Nobel Peace prize. Barack Obama (2009–17)
was elected to becomes the first African-
four terms. American president.
George Bush
(1989–93)

1900 1925 1950 1975 2000 2025

1900 1925 1950 1975 2000 2025

William H. Dwight D. Gerald Donald

Taft Eisenhower Ford Trump
(1909–13) (1953–61) (1974–77) (2017– )
Herbert Hoover
(1929–33) George W. Bush
(2001–09)
Warren Harding
(1921–23) Calvin Coolidge
(1923–29) Ronald Reagan
(1981–89), a one-
time movie actor
and popular
president, cut William J. Clinton’s
taxes, increased (1993–2001) two-term
military spending, presidency saw
Lyndon B. Johnson (1963–69)
and reduced unprecedented
escalated the Vietnam
government prosperity.
conflict, resulting in
programs.
widespread protests.

The Role of the First Lady

In the 19th century, the First Lady acted primarily
Theodore Roosevelt as hostess and “behind-the-scenes” adviser. Dolley
(1901–9) created many Madison was known as the “Toast of Washington.”
national parks and oversaw Later, when Eleanor Roosevelt held her own press
the construction of the conferences, the role of First Lady changed greatly.
Panama Canal.
Jackie Kennedy gave unprecedented support to the
arts, Rosalynn Carter attended Cabinet meetings, Nancy
Reagan told the world to “Just Say No” to drugs, Barbara
Bush promoted literacy, and Michelle Obama launched First Lady Michelle Obama speaks at
the “Let’s Move!” campaign to combat child obesity. a campaign rally for husband Barack
 New York
CitY & tHe
MiD-AtLANtiC
reGioN

Introducing New York City

& the Mid-Atlantic Region 66–73
New York City 74–99
New York State 100–105
New Jersey 106–107
Philadelphia, PA 108–115
Pennsylvania 116–119
66  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

New York City & the Mid-

Atlantic Region at a Glance
The tri-state region surrounding New York City is one of
the most fascinating areas in the US. New Jersey, the region’s
smallest but most densely populated state, extends
between New York and Philadelphia. To its west, the idyllic
pastoral landscape of Pennsylvania stretches almost all the
way to the Great Lakes, with towns, green farm valleys,
and the rolling folds of the Allegheny Mountains. Farther
north, New York State has cities, towns, and rural hamlets
spreading between the Hudson River Valley and Niagara
Niagara Falls (see p105), located
Falls. Of the two main cities, New York City is a vibrant, on the border between Canada
cosmopolitan city and the financial capital of the world, and the US, is one of New York
while Philadelphia is more historic, in keeping with its State’s prime attractions,
status as the capital of Colonial America. drawing more than 10 million
visitors a year.

L a k e O nt a r i o

Rochester Syracuse

Buffalo

Pittsburgh (see p118), in Pennsylvania,

has rebuilt itself from the ashes of an
industrial past to become one of the L ake Er ie
country’s most appealing cities. The Jamestown Elmira
Andy Warhol Museum and the
Erie
Carnegie Museum of Art are
popular tourist attractions here.
Meadville

Williamsport
PENNSYLVANIA
(See pp108–19)

Altoona
Pittsburgh
Harrisburg

Gettysburg

0 kilometers 100

0 miles 100

Gettysburg (see p116) is one of Pennsylvania’s most

significant historic sites. In July 1863, this peaceful town was
the scene of a devastating Civil War battle. It was here, four
months later, that President Abraham Lincoln delivered his
moving Gettysburg Address.

Scenic fall landscape of Allegheny River, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N  67

New York State (see pp100–

105) offers a diversity of land-
scapes, from the beauty of
the Hudson Valley, to the
craggy Adirondack
Mountains and the lush wine
country of the Finger Lakes.
Other highlights include
Albany, the state capital, and
the awesome Niagara Falls.

Locator Map

Plattsburgh

New York City (see pp74–99), with its world-class

Glens Falls
museums and wide variety of shopping, dining, and
Utica entertainment options, is one of the most frequently
visited cities in the United States. Its distinctive
skyline features a varied collection of skyscrapers,
including the iconic Empire State Building.
NEW YORK
(See pp74–105) Albany

Philadelphia (see pp108–15),

the “City of Brotherly Love,” was
Binghamton the focus of the revolutionary
movement for American
independence. Its historic
Poughkeepsie
Independence National Historic
Park preserves structures and
artifacts relating to those
Scranton stirring times.

Brookhaven

Newark New York City

Allentown

Trenton

Philadelphia

NEW JERSEY
(See pp106–107)

Atlantic City
Cape May (see p107), at the
southern tip of New Jersey, is
Cape May a Victorian-period resort that
draws many visitors. The state’s
other attractions include the
opulent casinos of Atlantic City
and the picturesque wilds of
the Delaware Gap.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N  69

NEW YORK CITY & THE

MID-ATLANTIC REGION
The tri-state region around New York City truly embodies American diversity
and dynamism. The vitality of New York City and Philadelphia is balanced by a
surprisingly calm, almost pastoral hinterland. The Mid-Atlantic landscape is
spectacular and ranges from dramatic mountain scenery, superb river valleys,
and forests, interspersed with rolling farmlands.

New York City, or the “Big Apple,” dominates communities still speak German (Deutsch),
northeastern US, and to a large extent with the industrial cities of Pittsburgh and
controls the country’s economy and Reading. Farther north, the state of New
culture. It is, without exaggeration, one York has majestic mountains, picturesque
of the world’s great cities, and it is hard lakes, and the scenic Hudson River Valley.
to imagine visiting the region without
spending some time here. Philadelphia, History
the other major city, was the nation’s The Mid-Atlantic Region’s natural wealth
leading city during Colonial times, and supported some of early America’s most
its wealth of history offers unforgettable powerful and accomplished Native
insights into early American ideals. Americans. The first main groups were the
Fascinating as these cities are, the Algonquian tribes, including the Lenni
broader region around them paints a Lenape, who lived in what is now New
much fuller picture of the nation. New Jersey and Pennsylvania. In the early
Jersey, despite its reputation for heavy 16th century, the Algonquian were ousted
industry and sprawling suburbia, has by incoming tribes of Iroquois. Settling in
much to offer, from the Victorian-era the Finger Lakes area in central New York
coastal resort of Cape May to Ivy League State, the Iroquois, one of North America’s
Princeton University. Pennsylvania, to the most socially sophisticated tribes, formed
west, juxtaposes peaceful scenes of rural a powerful alliance among their five
farmland in the “Pennsylvania Dutch” constituent tribes – the Senecas, Cayugas,
country where Amish and Mennonite Oneidas, Mohawks, and Onondagas.

Amish farmers harvesting corn in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

Brooklyn Bridge over the Hudson River in Manhattan, New York City
70  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

Around this time, the first Europeans were

making efforts to forge trade relations.
Although Giovanni da Verrazano visited
New York as early as 1524, it was not
until 1609, when the Dutch West India
Company sent Henry Hudson to explore
the river that now bears his name, that
the first settlements were established. In the
same year, a French explorer, Samuel de
Champlain, laid claim to northeastern Detail from Benjamin West’s monumental Penn’s Treaty with the
New York State, having ventured there by Indians, circa 1770
way of Quebec.
In 1624 the Dutch founded the to the Native Americans, who paid for
region’s first colony, Fort Orange, at present- them with valuable beaver and other
day Albany, began another at New pelts. However, contact with foreigners
Amsterdam (later New York) the following led to the spread of diseases, including
year, and later expanded to smallpox and measles, which soon
make footholds in New Jersey decimated Native Americans.
and Pennsylvania. Relations From the 1660s onward, as England
between the Dutch and the wrestled for power in the New World,
Native Americans were upstate New York evolved into a
mutually beneficial, battleground for distant European wars.
in that the Dutch To consolidate their control over trans-
supplied guns and Atlantic trade, the English first acquired the
Giovanni da Verrazano other metal products Dutch colonies and established a new one
of their own – Pennsylvania. This colony,
KEY DATES IN HISTORY which developed on land granted by King
1524 Italian sailor Giovanni da Verrazano sails into Charles II to wealthy Quaker William Penn
New York harbor in 1680, thrived, thanks to fertile soil,
1609 Henry Hudson explores and maps the Hudson a healthy climate, and a group of
River and New Jersey shore
comparatively wealthy and industrious
1624 The Dutch establish Fort Orange
colonists. Its capital, Philadelphia, flourished
1664 England takes over New Netherland. The city
of New Amsterdam is renamed New York and became the key center of the nascent
1731 Benjamin Franklin establishes the nation’s first movement for American independence.
public library in Philadelphia
1776 The Declaration of Independence is adopted Independence & Industry
in Philadelphia
Throughout the first half of the 18th
1825 The 363-mile (588-km) Erie Canal opens
century, the English and their American
1863 Union forces defeat Robert E. Lee and the
Confederacy at Gettysburg
colonists fought a series of frontier battles
1929 Stock Market crash triggers the against the French and their Native
Great Depression American allies. The cost of these wars
1933 New York Governor Franklin Delano Roosevelt in loss of life and property was high, and
is elected president to pay for them the English Crown raised
1978 Gambling legalized in Atlantic City a series of taxes, many of which were
1987 Stock Market crash
especially onerous for the merchants of
2001 World Trade Center destroyed in terrorist attack
New York and Philadelphia. In 1774, and
2011 The National September 11 Memorial opened
again in 1776, delegates to Philadelphia’s
on the 10-year anniversary of 9/11
2013 Bill de Blasio becomes the first Democratic mayor
Continental Congress debated the issues
to win the election, by a landslide margin, since 1993 and eventually declared independence
from England. Soon after, the English
 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N  71

military occupied New York and century, and it was this industrial might
Philadelphia and held them until the that enabled the North to withstand the
end of the Revolutionary War in 1783. divisive Civil War. The region sent more
Perhaps the most significant early battle than 600,000 men to fight for the Union,
took place in the summer of 1777 at but the main battle fought here was in
Saratoga Springs, where patriots defeated July 1863, at the small town of
the English under General John Burgoyne. Gettysburg in southeastern
Although this success Pennsylvania. Known as the
earned the Americans the “high tide” of the war, this
vital support of France, battle was the northern limit of
the revolutionary forces, Confederate success, the only
organized into the time southern forces crossed
Continental Army under the Mason­Dixon Line, the
George Washington, still War memorial in Congress Pennsylvania–Maryland border
suffered tremendous Park, Saratoga Springs that marked the divide between
hardships. More than 3,000 free and slave states.
soldiers died of disease at Valley Forge,
outside Philadelphia, in the winter of People & Culture
1777–8. After the British abandoned their For nearly a century after the Civil War,
American colonies in 1783, New York City the mines, mills, and factories of New
served as the capital of the new nation York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania
until 1790, followed by Philadelphia from attracted a huge influx of European
1790 to 1800. immigrants. Between 1880 and 1910,
Although the battle for independence some 12 million immigrants passed
was fought and won by farmers and trades­ through New York City’s port. During the
men, the following century saw the region World War years more people, including
emerge as a major industrial powerhouse. African­Americans from the Deep South,
The Erie Canal was cut across upstate came here to work in the several arms­
New York between 1817 and 1825, and related factories. Today, as much as half
Pennsylvania became the nation’s biggest of New York City’s population counts
producer of coal and steel. Railroads criss­ itself as ethnic minorities, and in many
crossed the region by the mid­19th other cities in this region, these “minorities”
often comprise nearly one­third of the
residents. Thus some neighborhoods
are identified by their ethnic makeup –
Chinatown or Little Italy in New York City,
the Italian Market in South Philadelphia, or
the Polish areas of Pittsburgh’s South Side.
Years of labor strife, and many economic
upheavals led to many industries closing
down in the 1960s and 1970s. New
York City, the financial center of world
capitalism, flirted with bankruptcy in
the 1970s.
Today, however, things are different.
“Heritage tourism” of battlefields, former
industrial sites, historic canals, and rail­
roads is a significant business, drawing
almost as many millions of visitors as the
San Gennaro Festival in Manhattan’s Little Italy natural wonders of Niagara Falls.
72  N e w yo r k c i t y & t h e M i d - at l a N t i c r e g i o N

Exploring New York City &

the Mid-Atlantic Region
the two major cities of New york and Philadelphia naturally
dominate travel in the Mid-atlantic region. however, the
region’s other attractions include the exclusive summer
retreats of the hamptons, the collegian environs of
Princeton, and industrial Pittsburgh, today a vibrant cultural
center. equally attractive are its scenic wonders, ranging
from the broad beaches of New Jersey and the tranquil
beauty of Pennsylvania’s amish country to the wilderness of
New york State’s adirondacks. a car is essential to explore
the region’s vast interior. all roads tend to lead through
both New york city and Philadelphia, especially the New
Jersey turnpike (i-95), the main north–south artery. heading Taughannock Falls surrounded by trees in
west from the coast, the two main roads are i-80 across fall foliage, Taughannock Falls State Park
Pennsylvania and i-90, the New york thruway. Many state
and country roads connect the rural areas, while the major
cities have good amtrak and commuter train services.

Lake Ontario

Sights at a Glance Rochester

Niagara
1 New York City pp74–99 Falls
90
Flint
New York State
Buffalo 20 Finger
2 Jones Beach State Park Lakes
3 The Hamptons & Montauk 390
4 Hudson River Valley
5 Albany Lake Erie
Chautauqua 86
6 Saratoga Springs Corning
Jamestown
7 Adirondack Mountains Erie
8 Cooperstown 6
Warren
9 Finger Lakes
n

0 Syracuse Cleveland
PENNSYLVANIA a
q Rochester i
w Chautauqua 79 219 h
Cleveland Williamsport
e Buffalo
c

Western Amish 80
r Niagara Falls Country
a

New Castle
State College
l

New Jersey
76
a

t Princeton
Pittsburgh
p

y Atlantic City Altoona

u Cape May
p

Johnstown
70
Columbus 76
Pennsylvania 70
A 20

Laurel
i Philadelphia pp108–15 Uniontown Highlands Gettysburg
o Gettysburg
p Lancaster WEST
a Hershey VIRGINIA
Charleston Roanoke
s York
d Reading
f Longwood Gardens
g Pittsburgh
h Laurel Highlands
j Western Amish Country

For keys to symbols see back flap

 i n t r o d u c i n g n e w yo r k c i t y & t h e M i d - at l a n t i c r e g i o n  73

Mileage Chart
0 kilometers 100 New York City, NY

0 miles 100 150 Albany, NY 10 = Distance in miles

241
10 = Distance in kilometers
396 292 Buffalo, NY
634 470
126 284 475
Atlantic City, NJ
203 454 764
100 251 414 62
Philadelphia, PA
160 404 666 100
Montreal
179 304 420 164 102 York, PA
288 489 675 264 164
C A N A D A 366 499 215 366 304 220
Pittsburgh, PA
589 803 346 589 489 354

Plattsburgh

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JERSEY 495
Paterson New York City
81 476 John F. Kennedy
78 Newark
Allentown
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Trenton
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95
Lancaster
Philadelphia
York 30

83 Longwood Philadelphia
Gardens
MARYLAND Vineland

Atlantic City
Baltimore

DELAWARE Cape May

A view of Philadelphia’s impressive modern architecture

74  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

1 New York City

With its skyscrapers and bright lights, this is a Key
city of superlatives. It covers an area of 301 sq miles Place of interest
(780 sq km), and comprises the five distinct boroughs Highway
of Manhattan, the Bronx, Queens, Brooklyn, and Staten
Island. Most of the major sights lie within Manhattan,
the southern tip of which was the target of the
September 11, 2001 terrorist attack. Glittering shops,
museums, and theaters are located in Midtown and
along Central Park.

Sights at a Glance
1 Wall Street j Times Square
2 One World Trade Center k The New York Public Library
and 9/11 Memorial l Morgan Library & Museum
3 Battery Park z Grand Central Terminal
Pier 72
Pier 72
4 Governors Island x United Nations
5 Statue of Liberty c Rockefeller Center
6 Ellis Island v St. Patrick’s Cathedral p87
7 St Paul’s Chapel

W
Pier 64
Pier 64
b Museum of Modern Art

ES

E
T
TH
8 South Street Seaport n Fifth Avenue EN EN

2
EV EV
9 Brooklyn Bridge p78 m A Tour of Central Park pp88–9 EL EL

W
0 Civic Center , Intrepid Sea, Air & Space

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q Museum at Eldridge Street Museum

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 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  75

W W
ES ES
RIVERSIDE
RIVERSIDE
T T
PARK PARK
86th St86th St86 86
TH TH 96th St
96th St

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0 miles 1 For keys to symbols see back flap

76  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

The hub of the world’s financial The on-site 9/11 Memorial

markets, the New York Stock Museum showcases collections
Exchange (NYSE) is housed in a relating to the history of the
17-story building built in 1903. World Trade Center and the
Initially, trading in stocks and 9/11 attacks, including personal
shares took place haphazardly in testimonies, videos and tributes
the area, but 24 brokers signed of remembrance.
an agreement in 1792 to deal In 2012, the One World Trade
only with one another. This Center was completed and, at
formed the basis of the NYSE. 1,776 ft (541 m), finally stood as
Membership was strictly limited the tallest skyscraper in the US.
and a “seat” that cost $25 in 1817 High-speed elevators whisk
can now cost as much as several visitors to the observatory on the
million dollars. The NYSE became 102nd floor for views of the city.
a for-profit public company in
2006. The NYSE has weathered
slumps and booms and has seen
advances in technology, from
Trinity Church at the foot of Wall Street ticker tape to electronic trading.

1 Wall Street R Trinity Church

Broadway at Wall St. Tel (212) 602-
Map B5. q 2, 3, 4, 5 to Wall St, 1, R
0800. Open 8am–6pm daily. 5
to Rector St. @ M1, M6, M15.
12:05pm Mon–Fri, 9am, 11:15am Sun.
Named for the Dutch wall 8 Concerts: 1pm Thu & occasionally
that kept rival colonists from 5pm Sun. ∑ trinitywallstreet.org
England out of Manhattan, Wall
P New York Stock Exchange
Street is now the heart of the
20 Broad St. Tel (212) 656-3000.
city’s financial district. One of
Closed visitors’ gallery closed for
the prominent sites here is
security reasons. ^ ∑ nyse.com
the Federal Reserve Bank on
Liberty Street. Inspired by the Arturo di Modica’s charging bull sculpture,
Italian Renaissance, this is a iconic symbol of Wall Street, New York City
government bank for banks, 2 One World Trade
where US currency is issued. Center and 9/11 3 Battery Park
On Wall Street itself is the
Federal Hall National Memorial Map B5. q South Ferry, Bowling
Green. ∑ batteryparkcity.org
Monument, where a bronze Map B5. Greenwich St, between
statue of George Washington Fulton and Liberty Sts. q Cortlandt This 18th-century park, named
on the steps marks the St, Rector St, WTC Station. 9/11 for the British cannons that once
site where the nation’s first Memorial Tel (212) 266-5211. Open protected New York, is one of
president took his oath of 7:30am–9pm daily. ∑ 911memo the best places in the city for
office in 1789 (see p71). The rial.org 9/11 Memorial Museum great views of the harbor. It offers
current imposing structure was Open 9am–8pm Sun–Thu (last entry statues and monuments, such
built between 1834 and 1842 6pm), 9am–9pm Fri & Sat (last entry as Castle Clinton and the East
7pm). & One World Trade Center
as the US Custom House, and Coast Memorial dedicated to
Tel (844) 696-1776. Open late May–
is one of the finest Greek US servicemen killed in the
early Sep 9am–midnight (last entry
Revival designs in the city. Atlantic during World War II.
11:15pm); early Sep–mid-May
At the head of Wall Street is 9am–8pm (last entry 7:15pm). Other attractions include the
Trinity Church. Built in 1846, ∑ oneworldobservatory.com SeaGlass Carousel, aquatic-
this square-towered Episcopal themed merry-go-round, and
church is the third one on this The area known as Ground the Pier A Harbor House, built as
site in one of America’s oldest Zero after the 9/11 attacks has the New York Harbor Police
Anglican parishes, founded in been utterly transformed. At headquarters in 1886 and now
1697. Designed by Richard its heart is the poignant 9/11 home to bars and restaurants.
Upjohn, it was one of the Memorial, consisting of twin On its eastern side is the
grandest churches of its day, reflecting pools that shimmer Smithsonian National Museum
marking the beginning of the in the “footprints” of where the of the American Indian. The
best period of Gothic Revival Twin Towers once stood. museum houses a million
architecture in America. Its These feature the largest artifacts along with an archive of
280-ft (85-m) steeple was New man-made waterfalls in North photographs representing the
York’s tallest structure until America. Around them, etched Native American culture. On the
the 1860s. Many famous in bronze, are the names of all park’s west side, the Museum of
New Yorkers are buried here. 2,983 victims. Jewish Heritage remembers to
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  77

the Holocaust. The collection 6 Ellis Island

begins with the rituals and
practicalities of everyday Eastern Map A5. q 4, 5 to Bowling Green;
1, R to Whitehall/South Ferry, then
European Jewish life pre-1930,
Statue Cruises from the Battery.
and moves on to the horrors of
Departures: every 30–45 mins
the Holocaust, ending with the 9:30am–3:30pm (starts 8:30am in
establishment of Israel. summer). Tel (877) 523-9849.
Open Jul–Aug: 9am–6pm daily; Sep–
Jun: 9:30am–5:15pm daily. Closed
4 Governors Island Dec 25. & ferry fare includes entry to
Ellis and Liberty Is. 7 8 9 0 -
Map A5. q South Ferry, Bowling
∑ nps. gov/elis; ∑ statue
Green. Open late May–late Sep:
cruises.com
10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat
& Sun. ∑ govisland.com
Almost 40 percent of America’s
With its village greens and population can trace its roots
colonial halls reminiscent of a Statue of Liberty, an enduring symbol of to Ellis Island, which served
college campus, this 172-acre New York as the country’s immigration
(70-ha) island in New York Harbor depot from 1892 until 1954.
makes for a great day-trip. been the symbol of freedom for Nearly 17 million people
Between 1794 and 1966, the millions since her inauguration passed through its gates in the
US Army occupied the island, by President Grover Cleveland greatest wave of immigration
and it was the US Coast Guard’s in 1886. A gift from the French the world has ever known.
largest base for the next thirty to the American people to mark First- and second-class
years. Since 2003, the island has the US centennial in 1876, the passengers were processed
been shared between the city statue was the brainchild of on board, but steerage
and the National Park Service. sculptor Frédéric-Auguste passengers were ferried from
On the north-west corner of Bartholdi. In Emma Lazarus’s arrival vessels and taken for
the island, Castle Williams was poem, which is engraved on medical and legal examinations.
built in 1811 to complement the the base, Lady Liberty says: Ellis Island lay in ruins until
near-identical Castle Clinton in “Give me your tired, your poor, / 1990, when a $189 million
Battery Park. Used as a prison Your huddled masses yearning project by the Statue of Liberty–
until 1966, its cramped cells to breathe free.” Ellis Island Foundation, Inc.,
held up to 1,000 Confederate The 305-ft- (93-m-) high renewed the buildings.
soldiers during the Civil War. statue stands on a pedestal Centered on the Great Hall
The island has plenty of green set within the walls of an old or Registry Room, the site
spaces, ideal for relaxing in on army fort. In one hand Liberty today houses the three-story
sunny days and a breezy promen- holds the new torch, with a Ellis Island Immigration
ade. Along with a visitors’ center, 24-carat gold-leaf flame, while Museum with permanent
there is an artificial beach and a in the other is a book inscribed exhibits. Much of its story is
small museum, plus a program of July 4, 1776, in Latin. The rays told with photos and the
festivals, exhibitions and events. of her crown represent voices of immigrants, and an
the seven seas and seven electronic database traces
continents. The crown was ancestors. Outside, the
5 Statue of Liberty closed to the public following American Immigrant Wall of
the September 11 attacks, but Honor is the largest wall of
Map A5. Liberty Island. q 1, R to S
reopened in 2009. Groups of names in the world. No other
Ferry; 4, 5 to Bowling Green. @ M6,
M15 to S Ferry, then Statue Cruises
10 people at a time can now place explains so well the
from the Battery every 30–45 mins, climb up the 377 steps from “melting pot” that formed the
9:30am–3:30pm (starts 8:30am in the main lobby to this level. character of the nation.
summer). & time pass required.
Tel (877) 523-9849 for reservation
or book online. ∑ statuecruises.
com Open Jul–Aug: 9am– 6pm
daily; Sep–Jun: 9:30am–5pm daily.
Closed Dec 25. Ferry fare includes
entry to Ellis & Liberty Is. 7 elevator
to the top of the pedestal; additional
cost for crown access. - =
∑ nps.gov/stli

The figure presiding over

New York harbor, titled “Liberty
Enlightening the World,” has Main building, Ellis Island, viewed from the water
78  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

when the World Trade River. Part of New York’s original

Center collapsed in 2001. dockyards have been preserved
Dating from 1766, the here since 1966, and today house
chapel is a Georgian gem, shops and restaurants. Since
but the main highlight is a Hurricane Sandy hit in 2012, the
poignant exhibition on site has been undergoing a
September 11, entitled multi-year redevelopment
Unwavering Spirit: Hope & program. Plans include the open-
Healing at Ground Zero. ing of iPic Theaters in the Fulton
Market building and a shopping
mall on Pier 17.
8 South Street South Street Seaport
The elegant Georgian interior hall at Seaport Museum has a vast collection
St. Paul’s Chapel of maritime art and artifacts, as
Map C5. 19 Fulton St. Tel (212) well as Federal-style warehouses
7 St. Paul’s Chapel 732-8257. q Fulton St. dating back to 1812. The
Open 10am–9pm Mon–Sat, museum also owns six historic
Map C5. 209–211 Broadway. Tel (212) 11am–9pm Sun. ∑ south
ships docked on nearby Pier 16.
602-0800. q Fulton St. Open 10am– streetseaport.com South Street
6pm Mon–Sat, 7am–6pm Sun. Those open to visitors include
Seaport Museum: 12 Fulton St.
the Ambrose, a 1908 lightship,
Tel (212) 748-8600. Open Apr–Oct:
Miraculously untouched when 11am–5pm Wed–Sun. ∑ south and Peking, a large German
the World Trade Center towers streetseaportmuseum.org merchant ship that later served
collapsed in 2001, St. Paul’s is as a British training boat in the
Manhattan’s only extant church This district of cobbled streets 1930s. The museum also owns
built before the Revolutionary War offers spectacular views of the schooner Pioneer, which
and was miraculously untouched Brooklyn Bridge and the East cruises the harbor in summer.

9 Brooklyn Bridge spanning the East River while (known as “the bends”) after
ice-bound on a ferry to coming up from the under-
Map C5. q J, Z to Chambers St; Brooklyn. The bridge took water excavation chambers.
4, 5, 6 to Brooklyn Bridge–City Hall 16 years to build, required From the pedestrian walkway
(Manhattan side); A, C to High St, 600 workers, and claimed over there are fabulous views of the
Brooklyn Bridge (Brooklyn side). 20 lives, including Roebling’s. city towers, seen through the
@ M9, M15, M22, M103. 7
Most died of caisson disease artistic cablework.

An engineering wonder when

it was built in 1883, the Brooklyn
Bridge linked Manhattan and
Brooklyn, then two separate
cities. At that time it was the
world’s largest suspension bridge
and the first to be constructed
of steel. The German-born
engineer John A. Roebling
conceived of a bridge Brooklyn Bridge, the first ever steel suspension bridge

Diagonal stays Four main cables have 19 strands,

each made of 278 steel wires, which
were laid parallel.

Steel floor beams weigh

4 tons each.

Saddle plates
anchor the cables Suspender wires
at the top of each Steel cable wires each
of the two towers. containing 3,515 miles
Caissons, each the size of four tennis (5,657 km) of wire,
courts, provided a dry galvanized with zinc for
area for underwater excavation. protection from the wind,
As work went on, they sank rain, and snow.
deeper beneath the river.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  79

q Museum at e Little Italy

Eldridge Street and Nolita
Map C5. 12 Eldridge St. Tel (212) 219- Map C4. Streets around Mulberry St.
0888. q E Broadway. Open 10am– q Canal St. ∑ littleitalynyc.com
5pm Sun–Thu, 10am–3pm Fri.
u Fri at sundown, Sat 10am
Little Italy and Nolita (or NoLita,
onward. & ^ 8 half-hourly
shortened from “North of Little
10am–3pm. = ∑ eldridge
street.org
Italy”) became, home to southern
Italian immigrants in the late 19th
This Moorish-style synagogue century. They preserved their
was the first large temple built language, customs, and food,
in the US by Jewish immigrants making Mulberry Street lively with
from Eastern Europe, from the colors, flavors, and atmosphere
where 80 percent of American of Italy. Today the 10-day Feast of
Jews came. At the turn of the San Gennaro in September draws
century, it was the most crowds of joyful celebrants. Also
flamboyant temple in the on Mulberry Street is the Gothic-
neighborhood, and as many as Revival style Basilica of St. Patrick’s
City Hall’s stately 19th-century 1,000 people attended services Old Cathedral. It became a local
Georgian façade here. As congregants left the parish church when the cathedral
area, attendance waned and moved uptown (see p87).
0 Civic Center the temple closed in the 1950s.
The synagogue is now a
Map C5. q 2 & 3 to Park Pl; A, C
National Historic Landmark
to Chambers St; R to City Hall.
Woolworth Building: 233 Broadway.
and houses exhibitions.
q City Hall, Park Place. Open check
website for tour hours. City Hall: City
Hall Park. Tel (212) 331. q Brooklyn w Chinatown
Bridge–City Hall. 7 8 7 Map C5. Streets around Mott St.
∑ woolworthtours.com
q Canal St. Museum of Chinese
in America: 215 Center St. Tel (212)
Manhattan’s busy Civic Center 619 4785. Open 11am–6pm Tue,
is the hub of the city, state, Wed & Fri–Sun, 11am–9pm Thu.
and federal government court ∑ mocanyc.org ∑ explore
systems and the city’s police chinatown.com
department. The 1926 New Little Italy, once home to thousands
York County Courthouse is New York’s largest and of immigrants
adjacent to the 31-story, arguably most colorful ethnic
pyramid-topped 1933 US neighborhood is Chinatown, r Lower East Side
Courthouse. The Tweed where more than 200,000 Tenement Museum
Courthouse, constructed Chinese Americans live. The
by the infamous Boss Tweed, shops and sidewalks overflow Map D5. 97 Orchard St. Tel (212) 431-
a corrupt politician, is now with exotic foods and herbs, 0233. q Canal St; Delancey St;
home to the Department and gifts ranging from Essex St. Open 9am–6pm daily.
8 11:45am–5pm Mon–Wed & Fri,
of Education. backscratchers to fine antiques.
11:45am–6:30pm Thu, 10:30am–
The monumental buildings Most people, however, visit
5pm Sat & Sun (every 15–30 min).
here include the 1913 Gothic Chinatown to eat in one of ∑ tenement.org
Woolworth Building, the more than 200 restaurants
headquarters of Five-and- or shop for Asian delicacies. This 1863 building provides a
Dime mogul Frank W. Other sights here include rare opportunity to view the
Woolworth. Designed by the Eastern States Buddhist cramped living conditions and
architect Cass Gilbert, it was Temple, with its incense- crumbling interior of a tenement
the city’s tallest building until scented interior and more building. The apartments have
1930 and set the standard than 100 golden Buddhas. been re-created to reflect the
for future skyscrapers. In The Museum of Chinese in lives of its tenants in the mid-
contrast is the historic America, provides a historical 19th century, when indoor
Georgian building, City Hall, overview of the Chinese- toilets were rare and there was
the seat of government since American experience from no plumbing, electricity or heat,
1812. To its northeast, the 1784 to the present, through to the mid-20th century when
Municipal Building is a an engaging blend of many families ran cottage
wedding-cake fantasy of multimedia displays, artifacts, industries out of their homes.
towers and spires, topped and filmed interviews of The building’s past is brought
by the statue Civic Fame. real people. to life by themed guided tours.
80  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

t TriBeCa buildings are stretched out

Map C4. S of Houston St, N of
over a five­block area. The finest
Chambers St, & W of Lafayette St to are those at 72–76, the “King”
Hudson River. q Spring St, Canal St, and 28–30, the “Queen.” A 19th­
Franklin St, Chambers St. century American innovation,
cast iron was cheaper than either
The neighborhood named for stone or brick and allowed
its geographic shape, TRIangle decorative elements to be
BElow CAnal, once consisted prefabricated in foundries from
mostly of abandoned ware­ molds and used as building
houses. Then Robert de Niro set façades. The area was threatened
up his TriBeCa Film Center in a with demolition in the 1960s,
converted coffee warehouse, and but was saved by the protests
now the annual TriBeCa Film of the many artists living and
Festival in the spring draws crowds working in its then low­rent
and celebrities alike, and features former warehouses.
a superb range of films, from The Singer Building on Original furnishings in East Village’s
foreign flicks to blockbusters. Broadway was built by Ernest Merchant’s House Museum
TriBeCa is now one of New Flagg in 1904. This ornate
York’s most elite neighbor­ 12­story building, adorned vintage boutiques and
hoods, with stylish restaurants, with wrought­iron balconies independent movie houses.
hip hotels, art galleries, cafés, and graceful arches painted in The six­story Cooper Union
and big lofts occupied by striking dark green, was an was set up in 1859 by Peter
celebrity residents. office and warehouse for the Cooper, a wealthy industrialist
Singer sewing machine who built the first US steam
company. Morrison Hotel locomotive and founded New
y SoHo Historic Gallery, from SoHo's artistic York’s first free, non­sectarian
District past, still features fine art,
music, and photography from
and coeducational college.
Its Great Hall was inaugurated
Map C4. S of Houston St. Greene the 1940s. SoHo’s streets are in 1859 by Mark Twain, and
Street: q Canal St, Spring St,Prince St. lined with trendy cafés, Abraham Lincoln delivered his
restaurants, shops, and chic “Right Makes Might” speech
The largest concentration of designer boutiques. It is also the there in 1860.
cast­iron architecture in the city’s favorite Sunday brunch­ The 1832 Merchant’s House
world survives in SoHo, a former and­browse neighborhood. Museum, a remarkable Greek
industrial district. The neighbor­ Revival brick townhouse, is a
hood comprises nearly 150 E Morrison Hotel Gallery time capsule of a vanished way
buildings and roughly covers 24 Prince St. Tel (212) 941­8770. of life. It was bought by
the area from Houston Street Open 11am–6pm Mon–Thu, Seabury Tredwell, a wealthy
south to Spring Street and from 11am–7pm Fri & Sat, noon–6pm Sun. merchant, and remained in the
West Broadway to the east, ∑ morrisonhotelgallery.com family until 1933.
around Crosby Street. Its heart One of New York’s oldest
is Greene Street; 50 cast­iron churches, the 1799 St. Mark’s-
u East Village in-the-Bowery is located on
East 10th Street. Governor Peter
Map D4. 14th St to Houston St.
q Astor Place.
Stuyvesant and his descendants
are buried here.
Prominent New Yorkers, The English­style Tompkins
such as Peter Stuyvesant, Square Park was the site of
the Astors, and the America’s first organized labor
Vanderbilts, lived in this demonstration in 1874, the
fomer Dutch enclave until main gathering place during
1900, when they moved the neighborhood’s hippie era
uptown. Thereafter, it was and, in 1988, an arena for violent
home to German, Jewish, riots when the police tried to
Irish, and Ukrainian evict the homeless who had
immigrants. In the 1960s occupied the grounds.
the East Village became a
haven for hippies, and this E Merchant’s House Museum
is the place where punk 29 E 4th St. Tel (212) 777­1089.
rock was born. Today, the Open noon–8pm Thu, noon–5pm Fri–
East Village is home to Mon. & 8 Photography without
numerous bohemian cafés flashes allowed.
The “Queen,” SoHo Historic District and lively restaurants, ∑ merchantshouse.com

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  81

i Washington row houses, lining the north

side of St. Luke’s Place, date
Square from the 1850s. Poet Marianne
Map C4.Greenwich Vil. q W 4th St. Moore lived here, and Theodore
Dreiser wrote his An American
Now one of the city’s most Tragedy at No. 16.
vibrant open spaces, The heart of the Village is
Washington Square was once Sheridan Square, where seven
a marshland that was filled to streets meet in a maze once
form a park. Stanford White’s known as “the mousetrap.”
magnificent marble arch, The Stonewall Inn, a gay bar
completed in 1895, replaced on Christopher Street, was
a wooden version that marked where a riot took place against
the centenary of George police harassment on June 27, The beautiful building of
Washington’s inauguration. 1969 – a landmark in the Gay Whitney Museum
In 1916, a group of artists led Rights Movement.
by John Sloan and Marcel Jefferson Market Courthouse Metropolitan Museum of Art
Duchamp broke in, climbed was built as a courthouse in turned down her collection of
atop the arch, and declared the 1877 and turned into a public works by artists such as Bellows
“free and independent republic library in 1967. Opposite is and Hopper. From 1966, the
of Washington Square, the state Patchin Place, a group of Whitney was located on the
of New Bohemia.” Today most 19th-century houses where Upper East Side. It moved to
of the buildings surrounding playwright Eugene O’Neill and the present building, designed
the park are part of the New poets John Masefield and by Renzo Piano, in 2015.
York University (NYU). E. E. Cummings lived. North- The sixth and seventh floors
west of Greenwich Village lies showcase pieces from the
the fashionable Meatpacking museum’s collection – there is
District, crammed with clubs, not a permanent display, rather
bars, and restaurants. a constant rotation of works.
Temporary exhibitions occupy
the first, fifth and eighth floors.
p Whitney Museum Highlights include Alexander
Map C4. 99 Gansevoort St. Calder's sculpture Circus
Tel (212) 570-3600. q 14 St. (1926–31), and works
Open 10:30am–6pm Mon, Wed, Thu by Edward Hopper,
& Sun, 10:30am–10pm Fri & Sat. whose Early Sunday
Closed some public hols. & 7 ^ Morning (1930)depicts
8 0 = ∑ whitney.org the emptiness of
American city life.
The Whitney Museum show- The Whitney
Window on the corner of West 4th Street cases an entire range of Biennial, held in
and Washington Square American art of the 20th and even years, is the
21st centuries in a spectacular most significant
o Greenwich modern setting. The museum
was founded in 1930 by
exhibition of
new trends in
Village sculptor Gertrude Vanderbilt American art.
Map C4. N of Houston St & S of 14th Whitney after the
St. q W 4th St–Washington Square,
Christopher St–Sheridan Square, 8th St.

Simply known as “the Village,”

this crazy-quilt pattern of
streets has been a bohemian
haven and home to many
celebrated writers, artists, and
jazz musicians. Later, it became
a popular gay district, which
comes alive at night, when
cafés, theaters, and clubs beckon
at every turn. A stroll through
its narrow old-fashioned lanes
reveal charming row houses,
hidden alleys, and leafy
courtyards. The 15 Italianate Pointed tower of “Old Jeff,” Greenwich Village
82  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

a High Line
Map D4. Access at Gansevoort St,
14th St, 16th St, 18th St, and every
two or three blocks to 30th St.
Tel (212) 500-6035. q 23rd St,
14th St. Open 7am–11pm daily (until
7pm in winter). ∑ thehighline.org

A fantastic reconstruction of
what was once an elevated
railway track, this ambitious
urban renewal project links
Chelsea, Midtown, and the
Meatpacking District. The Appellate Court, said to be the world’s busiest courthouse, Madison Square
structure stands as an elevated
promenade and public park, d Flatiron Building f Madison Square
about 30 ft (9 m) in the air.
Map D3. 175 5th Ave. q 23rd St. Map D3. q 23rd St.
Built between 1929 and 1934,
Open office hours.
the railway line lay abandoned Quiet Madison Square opened
for a number of years before This unusual building, its shape in 1847 at the center of a
two locals created the conforming to a triangular fashionable residential district
organization ‘Friends of the plot of land, has intrigued where politican Theodore
High Line,’ in 1999. The aim of New Yorkers since it was built Roosevelt and writer Edith
the organization was to save by Chicago architect David Wharton were born. It was
the structure from demolition. Burnham in 1902. One of the bordered by the elegant Fifth
Today, the High Line offers first buildings to use a steel Avenue Hotel, the Madison
incredible views of the city, frame, it heralded the era Square Theater, and Stanford
and a variety of gardens to of the skyscrapers. White’s Madison Square
explore on route. The walk It soon became known as Garden. Nicely landscaped, this
offers a subtle water feature the Flatiron for its triangular statue-filled park borders some of
between 14th and 15th streets, shape, but some called it the city’s hottest restaurants, while
and an amphitheater with “Burnham’s folly,” predicting Shake Shack stands at its center.
cinematic views of Tenth that the winds created by the Just off Madison Square is the
Avenue. The last fraction of building’s shape would knock spectacular New York Life
the High Line curves around the it down. It has, however, Insurance Company building,
rail yards towards the river. withstood the test of time. designed in 1928 by Cass Gilbert
The track will transform The stretch of Fifth Avenue to of Woolworth Building fame
dramatically in the next few the south of the building is (see p79). One block south is the
years, as part of the Hudson referred to as “the Flatiron Appellate Division of the Supreme
Yards development project. District.” Across the street Court of the State of New York,
stands the huge Italian food a small marble palace designed
emporium, Eataly, packed by James Brown Lord in 1900.
s Union Square with restaurants, espresso bars, Considered to be the busiest
Map D4. q 14th St–Union Square. gelato, and a charming beer courthouse in the world, appeals
Greenmarket: 8am–6pm Mon, Wed, garden on its roof. relating to civil and criminal cases
Fri, Sat. for New York and the Bronx are
heard here. During the week, the
Opened in 1839, this park was public can admire the fine interior,
once the hangout for drug designed by the Herter brothers,
dealers and soapbox orators. including the courtroom when
Renovations have transformed it is not in session. Among
this area into a flourishing the celebrities whose appeals
section of Manhattan. A were settled here are Babe
green market fills the square, Ruth, Charlie Chaplin, Fred
where more than 200 farmers Astaire, Harry Houdini, Theodore
from all over New York State sell Dreiser, and Edgar Allan Poe.
fresh produce, including herbs, Also on the east side of
berries, vegetables, flowers, Madison Square is the 54-story
home-baked pastries, honey, Metropolitan Life Tower.
and woven yarns. The square Built in 1909, this was the
is also ringed by a wide variety world’s tallest building at that
of shops, from discount time, an appropriate corporate
department stores to Flatiron Building, New York’s most famous symbol for the largest insurance
gourmet supermarkets. early skyscraper company in the world.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  83

g Empire State to build this 102-story lime-

Building stone and brick skyscraper,
with an average of four and
Map D3. 350 5th Ave. Tel (212) 736- a half stories added every week.
3100. q B, D, F, N, Q, R, 1, 2, 3 to The 102nd floor can be visited
34th St; 6 to 33rd St. @ Q32, for an additional fee. Each
M1–M5, M16, M34. Observatories:
February, the annual Empire
Open 8am–2am. Last elevators
State Run-Up is held, when
at 1:15am. & 7 9 0
∑ esbnyc.com 150 runners race up the 1,576
steps from the lobby to the
The Empire State Building is 86th floor (known for its
New York’s tallest and most outdoor observation decks),
impressive skyscraper. Construc- in 10 minutes.
tion began in March 1930, not
long after the stock market 102nd-floor The building was
crash, and, by the time it opened observatory planned to be 86 Macy’s 34th Street entrance
in 1931, space was so difficult stories high, but a
150-ft (46-m)
to rent that it was nicknamed mooring mast for
h Herald Square
“the Empty State Building.” Only zeppelins was added. Map D3. 6th Ave. q 34th St- Penn
the immediate popularity of the The mast,
now 204 ft (62 m),
Station.
observatories saved the
transmits TV and
building from bankruptcy – Named after the New York
radio to the city and
to date, they have attracted four states. Herald, which had its offices
more than 120 million visitors – here from 1893 to 1921, the
but the building soon became square was the hub of the
a symbol of the city the world rowdy, mid-19th-century theater
over. It only took 410 days district known as the Tenderloin
High- District. Theaters, dance halls,
speed hotels, and restaurants kept
Colored floodlighting of the elevators
top 30 floors marks special and travel at up the area humming with life
seasonal events. to 1,000 ft until reformers clamped down
(305 m) a on sleaze in the 1890s. The
The framework is made from minute. ornamental clock, on an
60,000 tons of steel and was built island where Broadway meets
in 23 weeks.
6th Avenue, is all that survives
of the Herald Building.
Aluminum panels Herald Square became a
were used instead of mecca for shoppers after the
stone around the
Manhattan Opera House was
6,500 windows. The
steel trim masks rough razed in 1901 to make way
Ten million
edges on the facing. bricks were for Macy’s. The “world’s largest
used to line store” began modestly. It was
the entire founded by former whaler
building. Rowland Hussey Macy in
Sandwich space
between the floors
1857; the red star logo was
houses the wiring, from his tattoo, a souvenir of
pipes, and cables. his sailing days. The store was
sold in 1888 and moved to
its present premises in 1902.
The 34th Street façade still
has its original clock, canopy,
and lettering.
Macy’s sponsors New York’s
famous Thanksgiving Day
parade (see p41) and the Fourth
of July fireworks. Its annual
Spring Flower Show draws
thousands of visitors.

= Macy’s
151 W 34th St. Tel (212) 695-4400.
Open 9:30am–10pm Mon–Fri,
Fifth Avenue Entrance Lobby, 10am–10pm Sat, 11am–9pm Sun.
Empire State Building Closed public hols. ∑ macys.com
84  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

j Times Square Reservoir, it opened in 1911

to immediate acclaim, despite
Map D3. q 42nd St–Times Square.
n 1560 Broadway (46th St), having cost the city $9 million.
8am–8pm daily. 8 noon Fri. The architects’ genius is best seen
∑ timessquarenyc.org in the Main Reading Room, a vast
paneled space as majestic as a
Named for the New York Times cathedral, extending almost two
Tower, Times Square is the city’s city blocks. Below it are 88 miles
most famous intersection. (140 km) of shelves, holding over
Although the New York Times seven million volumes. It takes
has moved from its original only minutes for the staff or a
headquarters at the square’s computerized dumbwaiter to
southern end, the crystal ball still supply any book. The Periodicals
drops at midnight on New Year’s Room holds 10,000 current
Eve, as it has since the building periodicals from 128 countries.
opened with fanfare in 1906. On its walls are murals by Richard
Since 1899, when Oscar Haas, honoring New York’s great
Hammerstein built the Victoria publishing houses. The original
and Republic theaters, this has library combined the collections
also been the heart of the city’s of John Jacob Astor and James
theater district. The district’s The New York Public Library’s atmospheric Lenox. Its collections today
transformation in the 1990s led Main Reading Room range from Thomas Jefferson’s
to the renovation of many handwritten copy of the
theaters, such as the New Victory k The New York Declaration of Independence
and the New Amsterdam. Their Public Library to T.S. Eliot’s typed copy of “The
productions, as well as the area’s Waste Land.” More than 1,000
bars and restaurants, attract Map E3. 5th Ave & 42nd St. Tel (212) queries are answered daily, using
theatergoers each evening. 930-0830. q 42nd St–Grand Central. the vast database of the CATNYP
Old-world Broadway glamor Open 10am–6pm Mon, Thu–Sat, and LEO computer catalogs.
10am–8pm Tue & Wed, 1–5pm Sun.
rubs shoulders with modern This library is the hub of a
Closed public hols. 7 8 Lectures,
entertainment in Times Square network of 82 branches, with
workshops, readings: = ∑ nypl.org
(see p98). MTV has its studios nearly seven million users.
here, and E-Walk is a vast Architects Carrère and Hastings Other well-known branches
entertainment and retail won the coveted job of include the New York Public
complex. Exciting structures, designing New York’s main Library for the Performing Arts
such as the Bertelsmann public library in 1897. The white at the Lincoln Center (see p93)
building and the minimalist marble Beaux Arts edifice they and the Schomburg Center
Condé Nast offices, sit alongside designed fulfilled the library’s in Harlem. The latter is recog-
the classic establishments, such first director’s vision of a light, nized as one of the leading
as Sardi’s, the Paramount Hotel, quiet, airy place, where millions institutions focusing exclusively
and the Baroque Lyceum Theater. of books could be stored and on African-American, African
A lovely addition to Times yet be available to readers as Diaspora, and African
Square are the pedestrian plazas, promptly as possible. Built on experiences. It hosts panel
dotted with tables and chairs. the site of the former Croton events and movie screenings.

Midtown Manhattan United Nations, founded in 1945, has its

Midtown Manhattan’s skyline is impressive headquaters on an 18-acre
graced with some of the city’s (7-ha) site on the East River (see p86).
most spectacular towers and Empire State Building
spires – from the familiar beauty (see p83)
of the Empire State Building’s Art
The
Deco pinnacle to the dramatic
Highpoint Tudor
wedge shape of Citigroup’s
modern headquarters. As the City
shoreline progresses uptown, so
the architecture becomes more
varied; the United Nations
complex dominates a long stretch,
and then Beekman Place begins a
strand of exclusive residential
enclaves that offer the rich and
Elevator door at the famous some seclusion.
Chrysler Building

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  85

opulent study and his original people passing through it daily.

library contain some of his The present building, dating
favorite paintings, objets d’art, from 1913, remains an
and a wide variety of cultural impressive sight. Its glory is the
artifacts. Prominent among the main concourse, dominated by
exhibits are one of the 11 three great arched windows
surviving copies of the Gutenberg that fill the space with natural
Bible (1455), printed on vellum, light. The high-vaulted ceiling
and six surviving leaves of of this vast pedestrian area is
the score for Mozart’s Horn decorated with twinkling
Concerto in E-flat Major, written constellations. The information
in different-colored inks. booth here is surmounted by a
The Garden Court, a three- wonderful four-faced clock.
story skylit garden area, links the The Grand Staircase, styled
library with the house. Exhibits after the staircase in Paris’ s
The skylit Garden Court, Morgan Library are changed regularly. Opera House, is a reminder of
& Museum the glamorous days of early rail
travel. Adjacent to the main
l Morgan Library z Grand Central concourse is the Vanderbilt Hall.
& Museum Terminal Today, Grand Central is no
longer limited to the city’s
Map E3. 225 Madison Ave. Tel (212) Map E3. E 42nd St at Park Ave.
commuters. It has become an
685-0008. q 6 to 33rd St, 7 to 5th Tel (212) 532-4900. q 4, 5, 6, 7, S to
attraction in its own right, with
Ave, 4, 5, 6, 7, S to Grand Central Grand Central. @ M42 , M101–104.
Open 5:30am–1:30am daily. 7
a museum, over 40 shops, a
Terminal. Open 10:30am–5pm Tue– gourmet food market, and fine
Thu, 10:30am–9pm Fri, 10am–6pm 8 Wed 12:30pm (free), call (212) 935-
3960 & Fri 12:30pm (free), call (212) restaurants, including the
Sat, 11am–6pm Sun. Closed Mon,
883-2420. Baggage check; lost & famed Oyster Bar (see p125).
Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
& free 7–9pm Fri. 7 8 - = found: (212) 340-2555. Also worth visiting is The
^ ∑ themorgan.org ∑ grandcentralterminal.com Campbell Apartment bar,
in a beautiful space
This magnificent palazzo-style One of the world’s great that was formerly the
building was designed in 1902 train terminals, this private office of
to house the private collection outstanding Beaux tycoon John W.
of banker Pierpont Morgan Arts building is Campbell (smart
(1837–1913), one of the great New York’s most attire must
collectors of his time. Established visited, with be worn
in 1924 as a public institution 500,000 here).
by Morgan’s son, J.P. Morgan Jr.,
it has a splendid collection of
rare manuscripts, prints, books,
and bindings.
The complex includes the
original library and J.P. Morgan
Jr.’s home. Pierpont Morgan’s Tiffany glass clock surrounded by sculptures on top of the Grand Central Terminal building

Chrysler Building’s gleaming The Waldorf-Astoria, one of New York’s Beekman

stainless-steel spire is for many the finest hotels, has a splendid interior, capped Tower
ultimate New York skyscraper. by twin copper-capped towers.
Trump World Citigroup
Japan General Electric Center
Grand Central Terminal Tower
Society Building
100 UN 866 UN
MetLife Rockefeller Center
Plaza Plaza
Building (see p86)
1 and 2 UN Plaza
86  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

mid-September to mid- development. This was the

December in the General first commercial project to
Assembly, the closest thing to a integrate gardens, dining, and
world parliament. shopping with office space.
The most powerful body is The number of buildings has
the Security Council, housed now grown to 19, though the
in the Conference Building. more modern structures do not
Here, delegates and their assis- match the Art Deco elegance
tants meet to confer on issues of the original 14. The center’s
related to international peace Channel Gardens, named after
and security. In 1988, the UN the English Channel because
Peacekeeping Forces were they separate the French and
awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. British buildings, change with
The Trusteeship Council and the the calendar.
Economic and Social Council The centerpiece of the center
The exterior of the United Nations are in the same building. is the 70-story G.E. Building,
headquarters Daily hour-long guided tours headquarters of NBC studios.
show visitors the various council Backstage tours of the network’s
x United Nations chambers and General Assembly studios are a popular attraction.
hall, offering a behind-the- The TV show Today can also be
Map E3. 1st Ave at 46th St. Tel (212)
scenes view of the organization viewed live every weekday
963-8687. q 4, 5, 6, 7, S to 42nd St–
Grand Central. @ M15, M27, M42,
at work. morning from the sidewalk in
M50, M104. Open Jan–Feb: Mon–Fri front of the studio. A favorite
attraction is the Top of the Rock
only; Mar–Dec: 9:30am–4:30pm daily.
Closed Jan 1, Presidents’ Day,
c Rockefeller observatory on the 67th–70th
Memorial Day, Jul 4, Labor Day, Eid, Center floors. Another draw is the
Thanksgiving, Dec 25 (limited 1932 Radio City Music Hall.
Map E3. 630 5th Ave between 49th &
schedule during year-end hols). Once a movie palace, it now
52nd Sts. n (212) 332-6868. q
& for tours. 7 8 Mon–Fri in hosts dazzling events, including
47th–50th Sts. 7 0 - 8 (212)
20 languages. Lectures, films. 0 =
664-7174 (reservations advised). Top the annual Christmas and
∑ un.org Easter shows. The center
of the Rock observatory: Tel 877-NYC-
ROCK. Open 8am–midnight daily. houses a skating rink
When New York was chosen ∑ rockefellercenter.com in winter.
as the UN headquarters,
philanthropist and multi- A city within a city, and
millionaire John D. Rockefeller Jr. a National Historic
donated $8.5 million for the Landmark, this urban
purchase of the East River site. wonder is the world’s
This complex was the creation largest privately owned
of American architect Wallace complex. Begun in the
Harrison and a team of inter- 1930s, it was built on a
national consultants. site leased by John D.
The United Nations was Rockefeller Jr. for a new
formed near the end of World opera house he had
War II to preserve world peace, planned. When the
promote self-determination, 1929 Depression
and to aid economic and scuttled the plans,
social well-being around the Rockefeller, stuck with a
globe. Currently 193 members long-term lease, went
meet regularly each year from ahead with his own Lovely view of Rockefeller Center

Works of Art at the UN

The UN Building has acquired numerous works of art and reproductions by major artists;
many have been gifts from member nations. Most of them have either a peace or
international friendship theme. The legend on Norman Rockwell’s The
Golden Rule reads “Do unto others as you would have them do unto
you.” Marc Chagall designed a large stained-glass window as a
memorial to former Secretary General Dag Hammarskjöld, who
was accidentally killed while on a peace mission in 1961. A Henry
Moore sculpture, Reclining Figure: Hand (1979), graces the
Reclining Figure: Hand (1979), a gift from the grounds. There are many other sculptures and paintings by the
artists of many nations.
Henry Moore Foundation

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  87

John Hughes decided to build floors, almost twice that of the

a cathedral here in 1850, many old museum. Expanses of glass
criticized his choice of a site allow abundant natural light
so far from the city’s center at into the building. MoMA’s
the time. Today, the church collection includes more than
rises over the heart of bustling 150,000 works of art, ranging
midtown Manhattan. from Impressionist classics to an
unrivaled collection of modern
and contemporary art, including
bMuseum of paintings, sculptures, prints,
Modern Art drawings, photographs, and
Map E2. 11 W 53rd St. Tel (212) 708-
graphic designs. Some of the
9400. q 5th Ave–53rd St. @ M1, M2, highlights of the collection
The Great Bronze Doors in St. Patrick’s M3, M4, M27, M50. Open 10:30am– include well-known works,
Cathedral 5:30pm Sat–Thu, 10:30am–8pm Fri. such as Picasso’s Les Demoiselles
Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & free d’Avignon (1907), Van Gogh’s
v St. Patrick’s for under 16s; free entry for all 4–8pm Starry Night (1889), and Monet’s
Cathedral Fri. 9 8 groups. - 0 = Water Lilies (c.1920).
∑ moma.org
Map E3. 5th Ave & 50th St. Tel (212)
753-2261. q 6 to 51st St; E, V to Fifth
Ave. @ M1, M2, M3, M4, M27, M50.
One of the world’s most n Fifth Avenue
comprehensive collections of
Open 7:30am–8:30pm daily. 5 Map E2. q 5th Ave–53rd St, 5th
modern art is on view at the
frequent Mon–Sat, 7, 8, 9, 10:15am Ave–59th St. ∑ visit5thavenue.com
& noon, 1, 4 (Spanish), 5:30pm Sun.
Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).
7 8 Mon–Fri = 8:30am–8pm Founded in 1929, it set the From its inception in the early
Concerts & lectures. ∑ saintpatricks standard for other museums of 1800s, Fifth Avenue has been
cathedral.org its kind. It was also the first art the territory of New York’s rich
museum to include utilitarian and famous. Then, it was lined
New York’s finest Gothic Revival objects in its collection, from with palatial mansions built
building was designed by James ball bearings and silicon chips by the Astors, Vanderbilts,
Renwick Jr. and completed in to household appliances. Belmonts, and Goulds, giving it
1878. This is also the largest Following a $650 million the sobriquet Millionaires’ Row.
Catholic cathedral in the US and expansion project, MoMA But, as retail and commercial
seats more than 2,500 people reopened in 2004. The building ventures set up outlets here in
every Sunday. When Archbishop provides gallery space over six the 1900s, society moved
farther north.
Lady Chapel honors the Today, the heart of New
Blessed Virgin.
Baldachin over the high altar York’s best-known avenue
Pietà is made entirely of bronze. Great extends from the Empire State
Organ and Building (see p83) to the Grand
Rose Army Plaza, presided over by
Window the 1907 Plaza Hotel. Along this
stretch are a range of famous
stores that have made Fifth
Avenue synonymous with
luxury goods throughout
the world.
The Cartier store, at 52nd
Street, is housed in a 1905 Beaux
Arts mansion, originally the home
of banker Morton F. Plant, who
supposedly traded it for a
perfectly matched string of
pearls. Other well-known
jewelry and accessory stores
include Tiffany’s, made famous
Cathedral
by Truman Capote’s 1958 Break­
façade made of fast at Tiffany’s, Harry Winston,
white marble. and Henri Bendel. Among the
high-quality department stores
are Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf
Great Bronze Doors are Goodman, and the iconic Apple
adorned with important
religious figures of New York. store with its entrance near
Central Park.
88  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

m A Tour of Central Park

. Strawberry Fields
New York’s “backyard,” an 843-acre (340-ha) This peaceful area was
swath of green, provides recreation and created by Yoko Ono
beauty for residents and visitors. Designed by in memory of John
Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux in Lennon, who lived
in the nearby
1858, the park took 16 years to create and Dakota Apartments.
involved the planting of over 500,000 trees
and shrubs. A short walking tour from 59th to
79th Streets takes in some of Central Park’s
most picturesque features, from the dense
wooded Ramble to the open formal spaces
of Bethesda Terrace.

. Bethesda Fountain
The richly ornamented formal terrace overlooks
the Lake and the wooded shores of the Ramble.

Wollman Rink
Tycoon Donald Trump
restored this rink in
the 1980s for future
generations of skaters.

. The Dairy
This Victorian Gothic building houses the Hans Christian Andersen’s Statue
visitor center. Make it your first stop and A favorite Central Park landmark for
pick up a calendar of park events. children, this is a popular site for
storytelling in summer.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  89

Bow Bridge
CENTRAL
This cast-iron bridge PARK
links the Ramble with

r
Cherry Hill by a graceful

ve
Ri
arch, 60 ft (18 m) above

on
M ANHATTAN
the Lake.

ds
Hu
LOWER
MANHATTAN

Locator Map
San Remo Apartments
This is one of the five twin-towered
apartments on Central Park West,
famed for their grace and
architectural detail.

. Belvedere Castle
From the terraces there are
unequaled views of the city
and surrounding park. Within
the stone walls is the Central
Park Learning Center.

KEY

1 Frick Collection (see p90)

2 Central Park Zoo has three
climate zones that are home to over
130 species of animals.
3 The Pond
4 Plaza Hotel
5 The Dakota Apartment
Building
6 American Museum of Natural
History (see p93)
7 The Ramble is a wooded area of
37 acres (15 ha), crisscrossed by
paths and streams. It is a paradise for
bird-watchers – over 250 species
have been spotted in the park, which
is on the Atlantic migration flyway.
8 Obelisk
9 Reservoir
0 Guggenheim Museum (see p92)
q Metropolitan Museum (see p90)
w Alice in Wonderland is
. Conservatory Water immortalized in bronze at the
From March to November, this is the scene of northern end of Conservatory Water,
model boat races each Saturday. Many of the along with the Cheshire Cat, the
tiny craft are stored in the boathouse that Mad Hatter, and the Dormouse.
adjoins the Lake.
90  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

, Intrepid Sea, Air

& Space Museum
Map D2. Pier 86, W 46th St. Tel (877)
957-SHIP. @ M42, M50. Open Apr–
Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm
Sat, Sun & hols; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm
daily. ∑ intrepidmuseum.org

This museum chronicles

military and maritime history
as well as traces the progress of The grand entrance of the Metropolitan Museum of Art
flight exploration. Exhibits on
board this World War II aircraft / The Frick interest is the skylit West Gallery
carrier include fighter planes Collection offering oils by Hals, Rembrandt,
from the 1940s, the A-12 and Vermeer, whose Officer and
Blackbird, and the USS Growler, Map F2. 1 E 70th St. Tel (212) 288- the Laughing Girl (1655–60) is a
a guided-missile submarine 0700. q 6 to 68th St. @ M1, M2, M3, fine example of the Dutch
launched in 1958 at the height M4, 30, M72, M79. Open 10am– 6pm painter’s use of light and shadow.
Tue–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun. Closed
of the Cold War. The Oval Room features Whistler,
most public hols. & children under
The workings of today’s while the Library and Dining
10 not admitted. ^ 7 = Concerts,
super- carriers are traced in Room are devoted to English
lectures, film & video: ∑ frick.org
Stern Hall, while Technologies works. In the Living Hall are works
Hall showcases the rockets of The priceless art collection of by Titian, Bellini, and Holbein.
the future and includes two steel magnate Henry Clay Frick
flight simulators. Mission (1849–1919) is exhibited in a
Control offers live coverage of residential setting amid the !Metropolitan
NASA shuttle missions and the furnishings of his opulent man- Museum of Art
Space Shuttle Pavilion houses sion, providing a rare glimpse of
the space shuttle Enterprise. how the extremely wealthy lived Map F2. 1000 Fifth Ave. Tel (212) 535-
in New York’s gilded age. Frick 7710. q 4, 5, 6 to 86th St. @ M1, M2,
intended the collection to be a M3, M4. Open 10am–5:30pm Sun–
. The Met Breuer memorial to himself and Thu, 10am–9pm Fri & Sat. Closed Jan
1, 1st Mon in May, Thanksg., Dec 25.
bequeathed the entire house to
Map A5. 945 Madison Ave. & 7 8 9 0 - = Concerts,
Tel (212) 731-1675. q 6 to 77th St.
the nation on his death.
lectures, film & video presentations:
@ M1, M2, M3, M4. Open 10am– The collection includes a ∑ metmuseum.org
5:30pm Tue & Wed, 10am–9pm suberb display of Old Master
Thu & Fri, 10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. paintings, French furniture, One of the world’s great
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. and Limoges enamel. Of special museums, the Metropolitan
∑ metmuseum.org houses treasures that span 5,000
years of culture from all over the
The Met Breuer opened in world. Founded in 1870 by a
March 2016, as an extension group of artists and philanthro-
of The Metropolitan Museum pists who visualized an American
of Art, in the old premises of art institution to rival those of
the Whitney Museum of Europe, it began with three
American Art. Created by private European collections and
architect Marcel Breuer, the 174 paintings. Today, its holdings
building’s Brutalist design was number over two million, and
a controversial addition to the the original 1880 Gothic Revival
town houses of the Upper East building by Calvert Vaux and
Side in 1966, but today the Jacob Wrey has been expanded
building is one of the most many times. Additions include
recognizable landmarks inviting courts with huge
in New York City. The current windows overlooking Central
museum is so-named in honour Park, and the breathtaking
of its renowned architect. Medieval Art Galleries, located
The Met Breuer provides under the Grand Staircase.
further exhibition space for the Most of the collections are
Metropolitan Museum of Art’s housed on the two main floors.
collection of 20th and 21st On the first floor is the Robert
century art, along with edu- Lehman Collection acquired in
cational programs, performances, James Whistler’s second portrait of Lady Meux 1969, and includes Old Masters,
and artist residencies. (1881), Frick Collection Dutch, Spanish, and French
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  91

outstanding ivory and Some great works include

bronze sculptures from the Picasso’s portrait of Gertrude Stein
royal kingdom of Benin (1905) and Jackson Pollock’s
(Nigeria). Also on view are Autumn Rhythm (1950).
pre-Columbian gold, The heart of the museum,
ceramics, and stonework however, is its awe-inspiring
from Mexico and Central collection of 3,000 European
and South America. Paintings on the second floor.
The American Wing has Its highlights are masterpieces
one of the world’s finest by Dutch and Flemish painters,
collections of American specifically Brueghel’s
paintings, including several The Harvesters (1551) and
by Edward Hopper. Prize Rembrandt’s Self-Portrait (1660),
exhibits include Gilbert painted when he was 54.
Stuart’s first portrait of Among the finest Impressionist
George Washington, John and Post-Impressionist
Singer Sargent’s notorious paintings is Cypresses (1889),
portrait of Madame X, and painted by Vincent van Gogh
Cypresses (1889), painting by Vincent the monumental the year before he died.
van Gogh Washington Crossing the Delaware The second floor also has a
by Emanuel Leutze. There are comprehensive collection of
artists, Post-Impressionists, and also period rooms, including Asian Art, featuring textiles,
Fauvists, as well as ceramics and one designed by Frank Lloyd sculpture, and ceramics from
furniture. Also on the first Wright, and Tiffany glass. China, Japan, Korea, Southeast
floor are the American Wing, The Metropolitan has one of Asia, and India. The full-size
European Sculpture and the largest collections of Ming-style Chinese scholar’s
Decorative Arts, Egyptian Art, Egyptian art outside Cairo. garden in the Astor Court was
and the Michael C. Rockefeller Objects range from the fragmen- built by craftspeople from
Wing. Built by Nelson Rockefeller ted jasper lips of a 15th-century Suzhou. The Cantor Roof
in memory of his son, who lost BC queen to the massive Temple Garden has superb annual
his life on an art-finding expedi- of Dendur. Many of the objects shows of 20th-century
tion in New Guinea, the wing were discovered during sculpture, displayed against
showcases a superb collection museum-sponsored expeditions the dramatic backdrop of the
of over 1,600 primitive artworks during the early 20th century. city’s skyline. Guests can also
from Africa, the islands of The Lila Wallace Wing holds visit the museum shops,
the Pacific, and the Americas. the museum’s growing Modern located on the main floor
Among the African works are and Contemporary Art collection. and mezzanine.

Floor Plan of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

1 The American Wing
2 Arts of Africa, Oceania & the Americas 1
3 Egyptian Art
4 European Sculpture & Decorative Arts
5 Greek & Roman Arts 12
6 Medieval Art
7 Modern & Contemporary Art
8 Robert Lehman Collection 11
9 Ancient Near East Art
10 Asian Art 9
10
11 Drawings, Prints & Photographs
12 European Paintings

8 1
7

4 6
2

Key to Floor Plan 3

First Floor
5
Second Floor
Third Floor
92  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

@The Solomon R. Over the years, Solomon

Guggenheim’s core collection
Guggenheim of Abstract Expressionist art has
Museum been added to by donations
1071 5th Ave at 89th St. Tel (212) 423- of several important collections,
3500. q 4, 5, 6 to 86th St. @ M1, M2, from Willem de Kooning to
M3, M4. Open 10am–5:45pm Sun–Wed Jackson Pollock and Robert
& Fri, 10am–7:45pm Sat. Closed Thu, Motherwell. The museum now
Jan 1, Dec 25. & “Pay What You Wish” owns a large body of work by
5:45–7:45pm Sat. 7 8 Concerts, famous artists such as
lectures, performing art series. - = Kandinsky, and major holdings
∑ guggenheim.org of Brancusi, Calder, Klee, Chagall,
Miró, Léger, Mondrian, Picasso,
One of the world’s finest Oldenburg, and Rauschenberg.
collections of modern and Not all of the permanent
contemporary art is housed in collection is on display at any
a building that is considered one time. Only a small portion
one of the great architectural is on view because the main
achievements of the 20th gallery, the Great Rotunda, Cézanne’s Man with Arms Crossed
century. The only New York usually features special (1895–1900), Guggenheim Museum
building to be designed by the exhibitions. The Small Rotunda
celebrated American architect shows some of the museum’s the museum are the Justin
Frank Lloyd Wright (see p394), famous Impressionist and Thannhauser collection,
it was completed after his Post- Impressionist holdings. with over 30 works by
death in 1959. Its shell-like The Tower galleries feature Picasso, more than 100
façade is a New York landmark, exhibitions of work from the photographs and unique
while the interior is dominated permanent collection and objects from the Robert
by a spiral ramp that curves contemporary pieces. A fifth- Mapplethorpe Foundation,
down and inward from the floor sculpture terrace overlooks and Minimalist, Post- Minimalist,
dome, passing works by major the scenic Central Park. Three and Conceptual art from
19th- and 20th- century artists. important acquisitions by Giuseppe Panza’ s collection.

The Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum

Tower

Great Rotunda

Small Rotunda

Sculpture terrace
Information center Main entrance
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  93

£ American
Museum of Natural
History
Central Park West at 79th St. Tel (212)
769-5100. q B, C to 81st St. @ M7,
M10, M11, M79. Open 10am–5:45pm
daily. & Closed Thanksgiving, Dec
25. 7 8 Donation. 0 - =
∑ amnh.org

This is one of the largest natural

history museums in the world, The Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts complex
attracting more than 4.5 million
visitors each year. Since the $ Lincoln Center David Geffen Hall, home to
original building opened in Broadway between W 62nd & W 65th the New York Philharmonic,
1877, the complex has grown to Sts. q 1 to 66th St. @ M5, M7, M10, America’s oldest orchestra. The
cover four city blocks, and today M11, M66, M104. best way to see the complex is
holds more than 30 million by guided tour.
specimens and artifacts. A giant cultural complex, built The American Folk Art
The most popular areas are in the 1950s, Lincoln Center Museum features an excellent
the dinosaurs, and the Milstein was conceived when both the and extensive collection of
Family Hall of Ocean Life. Metropolitan Opera House and traditional folk art, including
Enter at Central Park West the New York Philharmonic quilts, carvings, and paintings,
onto the second floor to view needed homes. At that time, dating from the 18th century
the Barosaurus exhibit, African, the notion of a single complex to the present. The gallery is
Asian, Central and South where different performing arts home to work by self-taught
American peoples, and animals. could exist side by side was artists from the US and abroad.
First-floor exhibits include considered both daring and Many pieces, from decorative
ocean life, meteors, minerals risky. Today, the Lincoln Center arts to detailed needlepoints,
and gems, and the Hall of draws audiences of over five celebrate US history and culture,
Biodiversity. North American million each year. and reveal a strong national
tribes, birds, and reptiles The Lincoln Center for the identity. The museum’s
occupy the third floor. Dino- Performing Arts was born in Contemporary Center,
saurs, fossil fishes, and early May 1959, when President established in 1997, is dedicated
mammals are on the fourth floor. Eisenhower traveled to New to folk art from the 20th and
The Rose Center for Earth York to turn a shovelful of 21st centuries, and includes
and Space has as its center- earth, composer Leonard everything from abstract
piece the Hayden Planetarium. Bernstein lifted his baton, and paintings and poignant self-
The planetarium contains a the New York Philharmonic and portraits, to embroidered
technologically advanced the Juilliard Choir broke into pillowcases and unique dolls.
Space Theater, the famous the Hallelujah Chorus. The The Hotel des Artistes,
Cosmic Pathway, and a Big center soon covered 15 acres nearby at 1 West 67th Street,
Bang Theater. (6 ha) on the site of the slums was built in 1918 as working
that had once been the setting artists’ studios. Past residents
for Bernstein’s classic musical have included Alexander
West Side Story. Woollcott, Isadora Duncan, Noël
Lincoln Center includes the Coward, Rudolph Valentino, and
David H. Koch Theater, home Norman Rockwell. The Café des
to the highly acclaimed Artistes is well-known for its
New York City Ballet and the misty, romantic Howard
American Ballet Theater in Chandler Christy murals and
the Fall; and the Metropolitan fine cuisine.
Opera House, the focal point of
the plaza. This fine building has F Lincoln Center for the
five great arched windows, Performing Arts
which offer views of the opulent Tel (212) 546-2656. 7 8 (212) 875-
foyer and two radiant murals 5350. 0 = ∑ lincolncenter.org
by Marc Chagall. All the greats E American Folk Art Museum
have sung here, including Maria 2 Lincoln Square. Tel (212) 595-9533.
Callas, Jessye Norman, and Open 11:30am–7pm Tue–Thu & Sat,
Luciano Pavarotti. The other two noon–7:30pm Fri, noon–6pm Sun.
Barosaurus, American Museum of significant institutions here are ^ 7 8 - = ∑ folkart
Natural History the Lincoln Center Theater and museum.org
94  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

Greater New York hand-carved gargoyles, is slated

to be the largest in the world.
Though officially part of New York City, upper Manhattan and Medieval construction methods,
the boroughs outside Manhattan are very different in feel such as stone on stone with
and spirit. Away from the bustle of the inner city, they are supporting buttresses, continue
residential and do not have the famous skyscrapers of to be used to complete the
structure. The cathedral hosts
Midtown. The difference is evident even in the way residents popular cultural events.
describe a trip to Manhattan as “going into the city.” Yet these
areas feature such attractions as Columbia University, the R St. Paul’s Chapel
city’s largest zoo, botanical gardens, museums, churches, Columbia University. Tel (212) 854-
1487 concert info. q 116th
beaches, and huge sports arenas.
St-Columbia Univ. Open 10am–11pm
Mon–Sat (term time), 10am–4pm
(breaks). 5 Sun. 7
R Cathedral of St. John
the Divine
1047 Amsterdam Ave at W 112th St.
Tel (212) 316-7490. q 1 to Cathedral
Pkwy (110th St). @ M4, M5, M7, M11,
M104. Open 7:30am–6pm Mon–Sat,
7:30am–1pm & 3–6pm Sun. 5 Choral
Evensong 4pm Sun. 7 8 =
Concerts, plays, exhibitions, gardens.
∑ stjohndivine.org

Classical-style library building on the main campus of Columbia University, Manhattan ^ Harlem
%Columbia quadrangle, in 1932. To the
Map F4. N of 110th St and Central
Park. q 125th St (2, 3).
University right, the 1904 St. Paul’s Chapel
is known for its fine woodwork Harlem has been at the heart of
Map F4. Main entrance at W 116th St and vaulted interior, and has African-American culture since
& Broadway. Tel (212) 854-1754. fine acoustics. the 1920s, when poets, activists,
q 1 to 116th St-Columbia University.
Columbia, part of the Ivy and jazz musicians came together
Visitors’ Center: Tel (212) 854-4900.
League, is noted for its law, during the Harlem Renaissance.
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. 8 1pm
medicine, and journalism schools. Although the neighborhood
Mon–Fri. ∑ columbia.edu
Founded in 1912 by publisher gained notoriety for street crime
One of America’s oldest and Joseph Pulitzer, the School of in the 1970s, today the area is
finest universities, Columbia was Journalism is the home of the taking many strides forward in
founded as King’s College under Pulitzer Prize awarded for the best real estate and retail. The most
a charter granted by King in letters and music. Columbia’s obvious signs of gentrification
George II of Great Britain, in distinguished faculty and alumni, can be seen on Frederick
1754. Originally situated in past and present, include over 50 Douglass Boulevard (8th Ave),
lower Manhattan, the present Nobel laureates. Famous alumni between 110th and 125th streets,
campus was built in Morningside include Isaac Asimov, J.D. Salinger, where an array of new stores,
Heights. Architects McKim, Mead and James Franco. cafés, and bars has replaced
& White, who designed its first Visitors to the campus can previously vacant lots. The
buildings around a central stroll along the central condos here are often referred
quadrangle, placed the univ- quadrangle, where jeans-clad to as Harlem’s “Gold Coast”.
ersity on a terrace, serenely future leaders of America meet The area around Malcolm X
above street level. A Classical, and mingle between classes. Boulevard, between West 118th
columned building, the Low Across from the campus are the and 124th streets, is known as
Library, dominates the cafés where students engage in the Mount Morris Park Historic
quadrangle. Daniel Chester lengthy philosophical District. The area makes for a
French’s statue Alma Mater, arguments, debate in the topics great morning or afternoon of
(1903) in front of it, became of the day, or simply unwind. exploration, with its elegant
familiar as the backdrop to the Also across the campus to the brownstones and churches,
1968 anti-Vietnam War student east on Amsterdam Avenue lies of which the Mount Olivet
demonstrations. The building the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist Church is worth a visit.
now houses offices, and the Divine. Begun in 1892 and only When it was built in 1907, the
rotunda is used for a variety of two-thirds finished, with its Greco-Roman-style temple was
academic and ceremonial 600-ft- (180-m-) long and 146- intended to be a synagogue,
purposes. Its books were moved ft- (45-m-) wide interior, this but was purchased by Baptists
to Butler Library, across the Neo-Gothic cathedral, with its in 1925.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  95

a congressman and decay. However, New Yorkers still

civil-rights leader. flock to the Yankee Stadium,
The Schomburg home of the New York Yankees
Center for Research baseball team since 1923. Games
in Black Culture, on take place between April and
Malcolm X Boulevard September, while tours run all
is the largest center year long, offering visitors access
dedicated to African to the field, press box, dugouts,
culture in the United clubhouse, and Monument Park.
States. Today housed The Bronx Zoo opened in 1899,
in a sleek complex, and is the largest urban zoo in the
the collection US, home to more than 4,000
was assembled animals of 650 species, which live
by the late Arthur in realistic representations of their
Exhibition space at the Studio Museum in Harlem Schomburg (1874– natural habitats. The park is a
1938), a black man of leader in the perpetuation of
The Studio Museum was Puerto Rican descent, who was endangered species. Its 265 acres
founded in 1967 in a loft on once told by a teacher that (107 ha) of woods, streams, and
upper Fifth Avenue, with the there was no such thing as parklands include a shuttle train
mission of becoming the world’s “black history.” that takes visitors around the
first center for the collection St. Nicholas Historic District, sprawling park.
and exhibition of African- better known as “Striver’s Row”, Across the road from the Zoo’s
American art and artifacts. The comprises two blocks of beau- main entrance, visitors can experi-
museum has two floors display- tiful houses on either side of ence 250 acres (101 ha) of beauty
ing rotating exhibitions that West 138th and West 139th and hands-on enjoyment at the
address cultural issues facing streets, between Adam Clayton New York Botanical Garden. One
African-Americans. Three galleries Powell Jr. Boulevard and of the oldest and largest botanical
are devoted to the works of Frederick Douglass Boulevard. gardens in the world, it has
major artists, such as Romare A contrast to the surrounding 48 specialty gardens and plant
Bearden and Elizabeth Catlett. streets, the houses on these collections, 50 acres (20 ha)
The Apollo Theater opened in blocks were built in 1891, when of virgin forest, and a vast
1913 as a whites-only opera Harlem was considered a Children’s Adventure Garden.
house. It rose to fame in 1934 neighborhood for New York’s The Enid A. Haupt conservatory,
when Frank Schiffman, a white gentry. Three leading architects with its inter-connected glass
entrepreneur, took over the conspired to blend their galleries, features the exhibit
theater and made it accessible different styles, resulting in the “A World of Plants.”
to all races. He converted it into harmonious whole as seen
one of Harlem’s most well-known today. Each house is still linked O Bronx Zoo
music halls, which hosted to a central service alley, that Fordham Rd /Bronx River Pkwy.
performances by influential can be accessed from the ends Tel (718) 367-1010. Open Apr–Oct:
artists such as Bessie Smith, of the avenues or at different 10am–5pm daily (5:30pm Sat & Sun);
Billie Holiday, Duke Ellington, points along the block. Nov–Mar: 10am–4:30pm daily. &
and Dinah Washington. donation. 7 8 0 = Children’s zoo:
Harlem’s best-known soul- R Studio Museum ∑ bronxzoo.com
food restaurant is Sylvia’s, where 144 W 125 St. Tel (212) 864-4500.
spicy ribs, black-eyed peas, q 125th St (2, 3). Open noon–9pm
Southern-fried chicken, sweet Thu & Fri, 10am–6pm Sat, noon–6pm
potato pie, collard greens, Sun. Closed public hols. & donation.
candied yams, and other ^ 7 8 Lectures, children’s
comforting Southern delicacies programs, films. - =
have been served since 1962. ∑ studiomuseum.org
On Sunday’s, brunch is accom-
panied by live Gospel music.
Harlem’s culinary scene has & The Bronx
blossomed over the years, with
Map F4. q B, D, 4 to 161st St
interesting newcomers, such as
(Yankee Std); 2, 5 to Tremont Ave
Marcus Samuelsson’s Red (Bronx Zoo); 4, B, D to Bedford Park
Rooster, not far from Sylvia’s. Blvd (NY Bot. Garden).
Further north at 138th Street
is the Abyssinian Baptist Church. Once a prosperous suburb with
Founded in 1808, the church a famous Grand Concourse lined
gained fame through its with apartment buildings for the
charismatic pastor, Adam wealthy, parts of the Bronx have The Enid A. Haupt conservatory at New
Clayton Powell, Jr. (1908–72), now become a symbol of urban York Botanical Garden, Bronx
96  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

* The Cloisters
Map F4. Fort Tryon Park. Tel (212)
923-3700. q A to 190th St (exit via
elevator). @ M4. Open Mar–Oct:
10am–5:15pm daily; Nov–Feb:
10am–4:45pm daily. Closed Jan 1,
Thanksg., Dec 25. & donations. No
videos. 7 8 book in advance. =
Concerts, lectures. ∑ metmuseum.
org/visit/visit-the-cloisters

This world-famous branch of Vaulted ceiling of the Pontaut Chapter House at the Cloisters
the Metropolitan Museum (see
pp90–91), devoted to medieval exquisite illuminated gardens, planted according to
art, resides in a building that manuscripts, stained glass, horticultural information found
incorporates medieval cloisters, metalwork, enamels, ivories, in medieval treatises and poetry.
chapels, and halls. The museum, and beautifully preserved Early music concerts are
organized in chronological tapestries. Perhaps the most performed regularly here and
order, starts with the interesting exhibits in the are extremely popular. Call in
Romanesque period (AD 1000) Cloisters are the advance for tickets.
and moves to the Gothic (1150
to 1520). It is noted for its
Intricate floral ornamentation can be
found on the capitals of the Saint-
Guilhem Cloister.
Pontaut Chapter House

Unicorn Tapestries
featured on the upper floor
were woven in Brussels
around 1500 and depict
Romanesque Hall
the quest and capture of
the mythical unicorn.
Upper floor

The 12th-century
Cuxa Cloister
features
Romanesque
architectural
detail and motifs.

The Campin Room is Lower

the location of the floor
Annunciation triptych by
Robert Campin, a
magnificent example of
early Flemish painting.

Main entrance

Bonnefont Cloister The Treasury houses several exquisite

Gothic illuminated manuscripts and folios,
such as Les Belles Heures, the book of hours,
commissioned by Jean, Duc de Berry.
Trie Cloister
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  97

( Brooklyn mid-19th century. The Brooklyn

Academy of Music (BAM), in Fort
Map F5. q Prospect Pk (Brooklyn Bot.
Gardens); 2, 3 to Eastern Pkwy
Greene, is the borough’s leading
(Brooklyn Mus); C, 3 to Kingston. cultural venue, and offers out-
standing performances.
Arguably the most fashionable Williamsburg occupies most
borough in New York City, of Northeast Brooklyn, and is
Brooklyn offers a multitude of presently one of the city’s most
experiences, with its treasure- popular neighborhoods with
trove flea markets, trendy bars, culinary attractions like Brooklyn
top-rated restaurants, ground- Brewery and Smorgasburg, a
breaking art galleries and trendy food market open
picturesque promenades. between the months of mid-
Among its diverse neighbor- May to mid-November. Not far
hoods are the historic districts of from Smorgasburg is Bedford
Park Slope and Brooklyn Heights, Avenue, which offers artsy
both tree-lined enclaves with coffee shops, boutiques, record Enjoying the view from Brooklyn
charming Victorian houses and stores, bars, and restaurants. Heights Promenade
a plethora of cafés. Brooklyn When it opened in 1897,
Heights Promenade runs Brooklyn Museum was designed Brooklyn poet Walt Whitman
between Atlantic Avenue and to be have largest edifice in the composed many of his works at
Brooklyn Bridge, and offers world, and was the greatest the borough’s farthest point,
stunning views of the Manhattan achievement of New York archi- Coney Island. It was billed as the
skyline. Between Manhattan tects McKim, Mead & White. “World’s Largest Playground” in
Bridge and Brooklyn Bridge is Today it is one of the most the 1920s, with its combination
the ritzy neighborhood of impressive cultural institutions of rides and beaches. Today, it
Dumbo, short for ‘Down Under in the US, with a permanent remains a popular option for
the Manhattan Bridge Overpass.’ collection of some one million day trips, despite being a little
Primarily industrial in the 19th objects. Highlights include a run-down. The New York
century, its brick factories have collection of ancient Egyptian Aquarium and Coney Island’s
been converted into art galleries, and Middle Eastern artifacts, famous boardwalk are partic-
restaurants, bars and luxury and some works of American ularly popular attractions.
condominiums. The area is one and European contemporary art.
of the most upscale residential The modest 50-acre (20-ha) E Brooklyn Museum
neighborhoods in the city. Brooklyn Botanic Gardens is a 200 Eastern Pkwy, Brooklyn. Tel (718)
The historic neighborhood of great place to spend a few 638-5000. Open11am–6pm Wed, Fri–
Fort Greene is home to Saturday’s hours. It features one of North Sun, 11am–10pm Thu. Closed Jan 1,
Brooklyn flea market and is full America’s largest rose collections, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & Contribution
of beautiful Italianate and an Elizabethan-style herb garden expected. 7 8 9 - = Concerts,
Eastlake town houses from the and a stunning Japanese garden. lectures: ∑ brooklynmuseum.org

People unwinding in the picturesque waterfront gardens of Dumbo

98  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

New York City Practical Etiquette

It is illegal to smoke in any
Information public place or building in New
York. Bars all over the city also
Visitors to New York are treated very much the same as ban smoking.
anyone else and as long as you follow a few guidelines on Tipping is part of New York
personal security you’ll be able to explore the city as freely as life. In general, 10 to 15 percent
any native New Yorker. Buses and subway trains are reliable of your bill is enough – 20
percent for outstanding service.
and inexpensive. Beside, the wide range of prices offered by
For bartenders and coat check,
the many hotels, restaurants, and entertainment venues $1–2 is typical.
means your New York trip can be both fun and affordable.
Entertainment
Tourist Information Getting Around New York City is a non-stop
Advice on any aspect of life Rush hours extend from 8am to entertainment extravaganza,
in New York City is available 10am, 11:30am to 1:30pm and every day, all year round. What-
from the NYC & Company 4:30pm to 6:30pm, Mon–Fri. At ever your taste, you can be sure
(NYC & Co.). Their 24-hour these times, most forms of public the city will satisfy it on both a
touch-tone phone service transportation are crowded. grand and an intimate scale.
offers help outside office Buses are a comfortable way to New York is famous for its
hours. Information kiosks and get around, but they often tend extravagant musicals and its
brochures are available at the to be slow. Subways are quick, ferocious critics. The Times
official NYC Information Center reliable, and inexpensive, and Square area hosts the “power
at Macy’s Herald Square. make stops throughout central productions” of Broadway –
Manhattan. The vast system the big, highly publicized
extends over 233 miles (375 km) dramas, musicals, and revivals
Personal Security and most routes operate through- starring many Hollywood
Though New York is rated out the year. You can buy a luminaries in sure-fire money
among the safest large US Metrocard for the $2.75 subway earners, in theaters such as the
cities with around-the-clock and bus single fares. Cards come Ambassador and the Lyceum
foot, horse, bike, and car patrols in $5.50 to $80 amounts (1903), the oldest theater still in
by the police in tourist areas, it depending on the number of trips operation. Off-Broadway and
is always good to be cautious. you intend to take. If $5.50 or more Off-Off-Broadway stages such as
At night, if you can’t afford a is put on the card, you get a 11 Atlantic Theater Company, host
taxi, try to travel with a group. percent bonus; discounts increase experimental shows, ranging
Walk as if you know where as you put more money on the from the well-appointed to the
you’re going. Avoid making card. Other options are $31 for improvised, in lofts, churches, or
eye contact and getting into an unlimited 7-day pass. Taxis are even outside at the open-air
confrontations with down- best for door-to-door service, Delacorte Theater in Central Park.
and-outs. If someone asks you but can be held up in traffic The city is also a great center
for money, do not get drawn jams. You should hail only yellow of traditional ballet and modern
into conversation. Always taxis, as they are the only ones dance. The New York City Ballet,
keep some change handy for with licences. If their roof numbers founded by the legendary
bus fares; carry your Metrocard are lit up, they are available. choreographer George
in your pocket. Never carry Heavy traffic and expensive Balanchine, performs in the
too much cash, and lock your rentals make driving in New York David H. Koch Theater. The
valuables in the hotel safe. a frustrating experience. The Dance Theater of Harlem is
Do not allow anyone except speed limit is 30 mph (48 km/h). world famous for its modern,
hotel or airport personnel to Parking in Manhattan is difficult and ethnic productions, as is
carry your luggage. and costly. Many hotels include the esteemed Alvin Ailey
Public toilets in bus stations parking charges in their room American Dance Theater.
should be avoided at all times rates. New York’s tow-away crews There’s every imaginable form
of the day. It is best to find a are active, and one-third of cars of music in New York, from inter-
hotel or store if you want to towed suffer damage. If you national stadium rock to the
use a restroom. Since parks are cannot find your car at its parking sounds of the 1960s, from Dixie-
sometimes used for drug place, first call the traffic depart- land jazz or country blues, soul, and
dealing, they are safest when ment’s tow-away office. For world music to street musicians.
there is a crowd, for example, specific details call the The city’s music scene changes at
for a rally or concert. If you want Department of Transportation a dizzying pace, so there’s no way
to go for a jog in a park, always (Tel: 311). If you receive a parking to predict what you may find when
make sure you avoid lonely ticket, you have 7 days to pay you arrive. The top performers
areas and pathways, and follow the hefty fine. If the car is not at such as Beyoncé, Taylor Swift, and
a map that shows safe routes. the pound, contact the police. Jay-Z perform in the huge arenas
 N E W Y O R K C I T Y, N Y  99

at Barclays Center and Madison there are activities to suit every (menswear) and Ann Taylor
Square Garden. Webster Hall taste. Visitors can choose from (women’s wear), and shops of
features live music, from punk health clubs and horseback riding international names such as
to rock. to playing tennis or jogging. Yves St. Laurent and Giorgio
New York’s nightlife and club Spectator sports are provided Armani. Manhattan is also
scene is legendary. Whatever by professional baseball (Yankee known for its world-class jewelry
your preference – disco, stand- Stadium), ice hockey and basket- shops, including Cartier and
up comedy, or the soothing ball (Madison Square Garden), Tiffany & Co. The city is a
melodies of a Harry Connick Jr. – and football (MetLife Stadium), bargain hunter’s dream, with
you’ll be amazed at the choice. while for tennis fans there is the huge discounts on anything
New Yorkers thrive on dancing. US Open. from household goods to
Dance floors available all over designer clothes.
the city range from the ever- As the publishing capital of
popular SOB’s – for reggae, soul, Shopping the US, New York has the
jazz, and salsa – to huge places, New York is the consumer capital country’s best bookstores.
such as Output. The historic of the world: a shopper’s paradise, Don’t miss the Barnes & Noble
Copacabana alternates live with dazzling displays and a stores, the Strand Book Store
bands with a disco. Cielo is a staggering variety of goods for for rare and used books, and
popular, strobe-lit bar and night- sale. Everything is available here, Shakespeare & Co.
club, as is the Pyramid Club, from high fashion to rare books, Dozens of tiny shops specialize
with 1980s-themed nights. state-of-the-art electronics, and in unusual merchandise, from
The city is also a film buff’s an array of exotic food. Keep in butterflies and bones to toy fire-
paradise. Apart from new US mind that the city’s sales tax is a fighting equipment and occult
releases, which show months in hefty 8.875 percent. potions. Some of New York’s best
advance of other countries, Known as the fashion capital of souvenirs can be found in the
many classic and foreign films America, New York boasts such city’s many museum shops,
are screened in this hotbed for names as Polo/Ralph Lauren and including the Museum of
new and innovative talent. Calvin Klein. There are fashion Modern Art and the American
New Yorkers are sports crazy, and stores such as Brooks Brothers Museum of Natural History.

DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices David H. Koch Copacabana Cartier
Theater 560 W 34th St. 767 5th Ave.
NYC & Company Lincoln Center, Tel (212) 239-2672.
∑ nycgo.com Tel (212) 457-3202.
Broadway at 65th St.
Output
NYC Information Tel (212) 870-5570. Giorgio Armani
74 Wythe Ave, Brooklyn.
Center ∑ outputclub.com 760 Madison Ave.
Delacorte Theater
∑ nycgo.com Tel (212) 988-9191.
Central Park, 81st St. Pyramid Club
Transportation Tel (212) 535-4284 101 Ave A. Museum of Modern
(summertime only). Tel (212) 228-4888. Art
Department of
Lyceum SOB’s 11 W 53rd St.
Transportation
149 W 45th St, (Sounds of Brazil) Tel (212) 708-9400.
55 Water St, 9th Floor.
New York City. 204 Varick St.
Tel 311.
Tel (212) 239-6200. Tel (212) 243-4940. Polo/Ralph Lauren
Entertainment Madison Square Madison Ave at 72nd St.
Garden Shopping Tel (212) 606-2100.
Alvin Ailey American
7th Ave at 33rd St. American Museum
Dance Theater Shakespeare & Co.
Tel (212) 465-6741. of Natural History
405 W 55th St. 939 Lexington Ave.
∑ thegarden.com W 79th St,
Tel (212) 405-9000. Tel (212) 529-1330.
Webster Hall Central Park W.
Ambassador Tel (212) 769-5100.
125 E 11th St. Strand Book Store
219 W 49th St.
Tel (212) 239-6200. Tel (212) 353-1600. Ann Taylor 828 Broadway.
Yankee Stadium 330 Madison Ave. Tel (212) 570-0201.
Atlantic Theater
1 E 161st St, Bronx. Tel (212) 949-0008.
Company Tiffany & Co
336 W 20th St. Tel (718) 293-4300. Barnes & Noble 5th Ave at 57th St.
Tel (212) 691-5919. 555 5th Ave.
Bars & Clubs Tel (212) 755-8000.
Tel (212) 697-3048.
Dance Theater of
Harlem Cielo Brooks Brothers Yves St. Laurent
466 W 152nd St. 18 Little W 12th St. 346 Madison Ave. 3 E 57th St.
Tel (212) 690-2800. Tel (212) 645-5700. Tel (212) 309-7765. Tel (212) 980-2970.
100  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

New York State

Stretching north for over 200 miles (322 km) to the Canadian
border, and 400 miles (644 km) west to the Great Lakes, the
“Empire State” is a world away from New York City. Due east
of Manhattan, Long Island is the largest island adjoining the
continental US, with miles and miles of suburbs, farmland,
and beaches jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean. To the
north, the Hudson River is an area of opulent mansions and
small towns. The state capital, Albany, marks the start of
the vast Upstate area, comprising the Adirondacks, rural
farmland, and vibrant cities.
The octagonal Montauk Point Lighthouse,
2 Jones Beach (61-m), brick-and-stone structure, completed in 1796
State Park the Jones Beach Tower, is
modeled on the campanile of whaling community of Sag Harbor,
Wantagh. £ Long Island Railroad St. Mark’s Cathedral in Venice. to the north of Bridgehampton,
from Penn Station to Jones Beach. the Custom House, built in 1789,
Operates Jun–Labor Day, (718) 217- commemorates the town’s post-
5477. @ n (516) 785-1600.
3 The Hamptons & Revolutionary War heyday as one
Open Jun–Labor Day: sunrise–
midnight. & 7 Jones Beach Theater. Montauk of the first official ports of entry
into the US. On the Village Green in
∑ jonesbeach.com * 15,000. ~ £ @ n (877) 386- East Hampton, the Home Sweet
Located on Long Island, Jones 6654. ∑ discoverlongisland.com Home Museum preserves an early
Beach State Park is only 33 miles Colonial, rough-shingled structure,
(53 km) from Midtown At Riverhead, Long Island splits a classic saltbox house built in the
Manhattan. A popular destin- into two peninsulas – the 1720s, and the still-operational Old
ation since it was created in 1929, mostly pastoral North Fork and Hook Mill, constructed in 1806.
this barrier island resort features the more urban South Fork. The easternmost Long Island
more than 4 square miles Most of South Fork’s beaches community, Montauk is a busy
(10 square km) of parkland, and cultural attractions are summer resort, serving as a
beaches, and a wide variety of concentrated in the expensive jumping-off point for the area’s
outdoor and cultural activities. and trendy summer retreats of nature trails and beaches. Other
The park’s oceanside beaches The Hamptons and Montauk. activities are golf, horseback riding,
are complemented by a stillwater Most New Yorkers tend to cycling, surfing, and fishing.
bayside beach and several swim- associate The Hamptons (from Montauk State Park contains
ming, diving, and wading pools, west to east, Westhampton Beach, the Montauk Point Lighthouse,
and surf facilities. The park’s other Hampton Bays, Southampton, commissioned by George
recreational options include golf Bridgehampton, East Hampton, Washington in 1792. Still in
courses, restaurants, fishing docks, and Amagansett) with its celebrity operation, but open to the public
and a 2-mile (3-km) boardwalk. residents and fashionistas who as a museum, the octagonal stone
The 11,200-seat Jones Beach migrate here from Manhattan structure is an important landmark
Theater is a popular venue for during the summer. However, for oceangoing vessels.
rock and pop concerts in summer. the area also has a rich historical
Another landmark, the 200-ft heritage. In the 19th-century P Custom House
Main St & Garden Sq, Sag Harbor.
Tel (631) 692-4664. Open Memorial
Day–Columbus Day: hours vary;
call ahead. & ∑ splia.org/custom-
house
E Home Sweet Home Museum
14 James Lane, East Hampton.
Tel (631) 324-0713. Open May–Sep:
10am–4pm Mon–Sat, 2–4pm Sun; Oct
& Nov: weekends only; Dec–Apr: by
appointment only. Closed public hols.
7 ∑ easthampton.com/
homesweethome
E Montauk Point
Lighthouse Museum
2000 Montauk Hwy. Tel (631) 668-
One of the many swimming pools at Jones Beach State Park 2544. ∑ montauklighthouse.com
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W YO R K S TAT E  101

4 Hudson River
Valley
~ £ @ n 3 Neptune Rd,
Poughkeepsie. Tel (845) 463-4000.
∑ dutchesstourism.com

From its source high in the

Adirondack Mountains, the
Hudson courses past bustling
riverport towns and the dramatic
Catskill and Taconic mountain
ranges for nearly 315 miles
(507 km) to its mouth at New
York harbor. Strikingly beautiful
and strategically located, the
valley has played a pivotal role
in North American military, The imposing exterior of the lavishly furnished Vanderbilt Mansion
economic, and cultural history.
Settled by the Dutch in the United States Military his 1933–45 term. The house is
1620s (see p53), it was soon Academy at West Point. now part of the Home of
dotted with trading posts that Established in 1802, the academy Franklin D. Roosevelt National
grew up around the thriving fur has trained the nation’s leading Historic Site, which also includes
trade with local Iroquois tribes. military officers, including an extensive museum and
The area’s Dutch heritage opposing Civil War generals library detailing Roosevelt’s
survives in names of places such Ulysses S. Grant and Robert leadership during the
as Catskill, Kinderhook, and E. Lee, and World War II Great Depression and
Claverack, as well as in the early commanders Douglas World War II. Both FDR
19th-century fictional writings MacArthur and Dwight D. and Eleanor are buried
of Washington Irving (1783– Eisenhower. The West here. The nearby Eleanor
1859), whose tales of Rip Van Point Museum provides a Roosevelt National
Winkle and The Legend of Sleepy comprehensive intro- Historic Site preserves
Hollow made him America’s duction to a tour of the Val-Kill, the First Lady’s
first internationally recognized fortress-like grounds. weekend and holiday
author. Irving’s modest but In the 19th century, Statue of George cottage retreat.
whimsically eclectic Hudson many of New York’s Washington at the US
River home, Sunnyside, is now emerging elite Military Academy
P Sunnyside
a tourist attraction. constructed seasonal 3 W Sunnyside Lane, off
The Hudson’s economic and retreats along the Hudson. The Rte 9, Irvington. Tel (914) 631-8200.
transportation advantages also largest of these is the Vanderbilt Open May–mid-Nov: for timed tours
made it a key strategic objective Mansion in Hyde Park. Completed only at 10:30am, 11am, 11:30am,
of both British and American in 1899, this Beaux-Arts-style 12:30pm, 1:30pm, 2pm,
3pm & 3:30pm Wed–Sun. & 7
forces during the Revolutionary palace was built by the
∑ hudsonvalley.org
War, resulting in many pitched architecture firm of McKim,
battles. Fort Putnam, one of the Mead & White, for railroad baron P US Military Academy
forts built along the river in Frederick W. Vanderbilt. The West Point Hwy (Thayer Rd),
1778 to defend the colonies magnificent home offers a West Point. Tel (845) 938-2638.
from British attacks, has been spectacular view of the river, and Open Museum: 10:30am–4:15pm
restored and is now part of the is laden with French furniture, art, daily; check website for tour timings
tapestries, housewares, (www.westpointtours.com); photo
and architectural IDs required, passports required for
foreigners. & for tours only.
details taken from a
Closed Jan 1, Thanksg., Dec 25. 7
Parisian château once ∑ usma.edu
occupied by Napoleon.
An older and less P Vanderbilt Mansion
ostentatious mansion 119 Vanderbilt Park Rd, Hyde Park.
is Springwood, the Tel (845) 229-7770. Open check web-
home of Franklin D. site for hours. & ∑ nps.gov/vama
Roosevelt (FDR), E Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt
America’s 32nd National Historic Site
president (see p59). 4097 Albany Post Rd, Rte 9, Hyde Park.
Roosevelt was born Tel (845) 229-5320. Open 9am–5pm
here in 1882, and it daily. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
was used as a summer Dec 25. & grounds free. 7 8
Sunnyside, Washington Irving’s home White House during - ∑ nps.gov/hofr
102  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

6 Saratoga
Springs
* 26,600. £ @ n 297 Broadway,
(518) 587-3241. ∑ saratoga.org

This town has been known for

its horseracing, gambling, and
high society since it emerged
as a resort in the 19th century.
The therapeutic waters from
the town springs at Saratoga
Spa State Park sparked an
annual influx of wealthy tourists
seeking relief from various
New York State Capitol in Albany, a blend of architectural styles ailments. Other more enjoyable
distractions were offered by the
5 Albany The New York State Museum lavish casinos and horseracing
chronicles the state’s rich facilities. One of Saratoga’s original
* 101,000. ~ £ @ n 25
heritage, beginning with gambling establishments, the
Quackenbush Square, (518) 434-0405.
∑ albany.org its first Native American elegant Canfield Casino, is
occupants and incorporating now part of Congress Park.
Albany has been a central force the stories of New York’s The gabled grandstand of the
in New York State since 1614, many immigrants, Saratoga Race Track,
when the Dutch established a early settlers, and built during the Civil
fur-trading post, Fort Nassau business elite. War, is still in use,
(later known as Fort Orange), at A reconstructed attracting large
the northernmost navigable Iroquois longhouse crowds during the
point on the Hudson River. and a restored racing season in
When the British took over the 1940s subway car August. For a glimpse
settlement in 1664, they changed from New York of the area’s more
its name to Albany. In 1797 City’s legendary Saratoga Race Track tempestuous Revo-
Albany was selected as the New A-train are lutionary War past,
York State capital, and the town’s highlights here. Saratoga National Historical
future was secured. The city Park, 15 miles (24 km) south-
expanded dramatically in P New York State Capitol east, was the site of the 1777
the 1830s with the completion Empire State Plaza. Tel (518) 474-2418. Battle of Saratoga. Here, American
of the Erie Canal, which linked Open tours Mon–Sat; call ahead for commander Horatio Gates led
the Hudson River to the Great times. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Thanksg, Colonial forces to a decisive
Lakes. When canal traffic declined Dec 25, public hols. 7 9 victory over 7,000 British regulars,
in the 1850s, Albany retained P New York State Museum Hessians, and Native Americans
its commercial dominance, Cultural Education Center, 260 commanded by General John
rapidly evolving into a New York Madison Ave. Tel (518) 474-5877. Burgoyne. The victory ensured
Central railroad terminus and Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun. American control of the Hudson
manufacturing center. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. River shipping corridor, and
While transportation and 7 - = ∑ nysm.nysed.gov prompted the French King
industry are still important Louis XVI to send troops
components of the local to the colonists’ aid later
economy, government is the that year.
main concern in today’s Albany.
The majestic New York State P Saratoga Spa
Capitol, built over 30 years and State Park
completed in 1898, occupies I-87, exit 13N. Tel (518) 584-
a central location near the 2535. Open 8am–sunset
city’s downtown. The massive daily. & 7 ∑ nysparks.
stone building is a curious com/parks/saratogaspa
amalgam of Italian and French P Saratoga National
Renaissance and Romanesque, Historical Park
replete with ornamented stair- Rte 4, 8 miles (13 km) S of
ways, soaring arches, and an Schuylerville. Tel (518) 664-
ornate Senate chamber 9821. Open 9am–5pm daily.
embellished with red granite, Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
yellow and pink marble, stained Dec 25. & 7 = ∑ nps.
glass, onyx, and mahogany. Sprawling Saratoga National Historical Park gov/sara

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W YO R K S TAT E  103

9 Finger Lakes
~ £ @ n 904 E Shore Dr,
Ithaca. Tel (607) 272-1313.
∑ visitithaca.com

According to the Iroquois tribes

of west-central New York, the
Finger Lakes were created when
the Great Spirit placed his hand
on the region, leaving behind a
series of slender lakes. Seneca
Lake is the deepest of these
water bodies, at 630 ft (192 m),
while Cayuga Lake is the longest,
The tranquil waters of Otsego Lake, Cooperstown stretching 40 miles (64 km)
between the lively town of Ithaca
7 Adirondack Home to the 1932 and 1980 – containing the picturesque
Mountains Winter Olympic Games, Cornell University campus – and
it is both a summer resort and historic Seneca Falls.
@ n 216 Main St, Lake Placid.
winter sports training and Downtown Ithaca, which has
Tel (518) 523-2445.
competitive center. a diverse array of art galleries,
Spanning almost one-fourth bookstores, and excellent
of the state, the Adirondack } Adirondack Park restaurants, is a pleasant place
Mountains encompass various 1 mile N of Rte 86/Rte 30, & 14 miles to start a tour of the Finger
ecosystems and hundreds of (22 km) E of Long Lake, Rte 28N. Lakes region. Taughannock
lakes and rivers, with only Tel (518) 327-3000. Open 9am–5pm Falls State Park, north of Ithaca,
1,100 miles (1,770 km) of road. daily. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 7 is a wooded oasis, with the
Rugged peaks such as the ∑ visitadirondacks.com 215-ft (65-m) falls tumbling
5,344-ft (1,629-m) Mount Marcy gracefully into a cool, green
are some of the scenic highlights. pool, where swimming is
Two visitor centers serve as 8 Cooperstown permitted in season. At the
gateways to Adirondack Park top of Cayuga Lake, the quiet
* 2,200. @ n 31 Chestnut St.
and provide information about Seneca Falls is the spot where
Tel (607) 547-9983.
the conservation movement that 19th-century feminists Elizabeth
led to the park’s creation in 1894 Overlooking Otsego Lake, this Cady Stanton and Susan B.
as part of the nation’s first neat little village is the legendary Anthony held the first American
forest preserve. birthplace of baseball and women’s rights convention in
The picturesque village of home of the National Baseball 1848, laying the foundation
Lake Placid straddles Mirror Hall of Fame. This engaging for the Suffrage Movement
Lake and Lake Placid in the north- shrine and museum pays some 70 years later.
central section of the park. homage to baseball greats
from the last 150 years, with a } Taughannock Falls State Park
colorful array of gear, uniforms, 10 miles (16 km) N of Ithaca, Rte 89.
Baseball photographs, audio-video Tel (607) 387-6739. Open 8am–sunset
“America’s Pastime,” the features, and special exhibits. daily (some trails closed in winter).
country’s first nationwide Founded in 1786, Cooperstown & ∑ parks.ny.gov/parks/62/
spectator sport, evolved from also has a superb collection of details.aspx
the British games of cricket Native American artifacts, folk
and rounders, as well as town art, and Hudson River School
ball, a New England variant. paintings in the Fenimore Art
The first recorded amateur Museum. The adjacent Farmer’s
game took place in 1845 in Museum features exhibits
New York City. Since on 19th-century rural life.
the 1870s, when
Glimmerglass Opera, on the
professional play
shores of Lake Otsego, is
matured, baseball
has seen many nationally renowned.
superstars, such
as Babe Ruth, E National Baseball Hall of Fame
Ty Cobb, and 25 Main St. Tel (888) 425-5633.
Ted Williams. Open Memorial Day–Labor Day:
9am–9pm daily; Labor Day–Memorial
Day: 9am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1,
Babe Ruth Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 Taughannock Falls State Park in the Finger
∑ baseballhall.org Lakes region
104  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

0 Syracuse w Chautauqua
* 144,700. ~ £ @ n 115 W * 4,600. @ n Chautauqua
Fayette St, (315) 470-1910. Institution, Chautauqua, (800)
∑ visitsyracuse.org 836-2787.

Like many upstate New York A secluded community

cities, Syracuse prospered after located on Chautauqua Lake
the arrival of the Erie Canal in in western New York State, this
the 1820s. The Erie Canal town doubles in population in
Museum, housed in a restored summer, when its Victorian
canal-side building just east of cottages and tree-lined streets
downtown, has a full-size canal are crowded with people
boat replica and a multimedia The Kodak Company’s office building attending the town’s famous
overview of the canal’s role in in Rochester Chautauqua Institution.
the city’s history. The down- Founded in 1874 as an instruc-
town Armory Square historic q Rochester tional center for Methodist
and entertainment district Sunday-school teachers, it
* 210,600. ~ £ @ n 45 East
preserves many brick and cast- spawned the Chautauqua
Ave, (800) 677-7282.
iron commercial and warehouse ∑ visitrochester.com Movement, sponsoring
buildings from Syracuse’s late correspondence courses and
19th-century boom period, as This lovely city, with its abundant lecture tours in an effort to
well as the 3,000-seat Landmark parkland and fine museums, make the liberal arts more
Theatre, built in 1928. evolved out of an industrial accessible. The town is now
A downtown surprise is the past, rooted in the milling one of the nation’s premier
Everson Museum of Arts, industries that developed venues for theater, classical
which has a remarkable around the Genesee River’s music, and opera. The shady,
permanent collection of more High Falls. The Center for High open-air amphitheater on the
than 11,000 items that range Falls includes a pedestrian timeless Chautauqua campus
from Ming dynasty porcelains bridge with scenic views of the holds lectures, performances,
to works by American painters still-roaring cascades, an art and religious services from
from Gilbert Stuart to Jackson gallery, a local history display, late June to late August.
Pollock and Andrew Wyeth, as and a tour of an 1816 factory
well as New York State that lies three stories below
landscapes by local artists. The street level. One of the city’s
building is the first museum most popular attractions is the
designed by architect I.M. Pei. Strong National Museum of
Play, a hands-on, interactive
E Erie Canal Museum center dedicated to the study
318 Erie Blvd E. Tel (315) 471- 0593. of play, particularly in relation
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, to American culture. The
10am–3pm Sun. Closed public hols. George Eastman Museum is
7 = ∑ eriecanalmuseum.org where the eccentric founder
E Everson Museum of Arts of the city’s Eastman Kodak
401 Harrison St. Tel (315) 474-6064. Company lived until his death
Open noon–5pm Wed–Sun (to 8pm in 1932. It is now a superb
Thu). 7 - = ∑ everson.org museum of photography and
film, containing massive still, Renoir’s Little Blue Nude (1879),
film, and video holdings, and Albright-Knox Art Gallery, Buffalo
cameras, as well as a collection
of books on photography. e Buffalo
* 259,000. ~ £ @ n 403
E Strong National Museum
Main St, (800) 283-3256.
of Play
∑ visitbuffaloniagara.com
1 Manhattan Square. Tel (585) 263-
2700. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Thu, Burned by the British during the
10am–8pm Fri & Sat, noon–5pm Sun. War of 1812, the fortunes of
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & the frontier outpost of Buffalo
7 0 = ∑ museumofplay.org
revived some 13 years later,
P George Eastman Museum when it became the western
900 East Ave. Tel (585) 271-3361. terminus of the Erie Canal. This
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, secured its economic future as
11am–5pm Sun. Closed Mon, Jan 1, the gateway to the prosperous
Old lithograph showing the inauguration Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 9 - Great Lakes trade. The Buffalo
of the Erie Canal = ∑ eastman.org History Museum is housed in
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 N E W YO R K S TAT E  105

(73-m) Prospect Point

Observation Tower provides a
scenic overview of the falls. For
a closer exploration, there are a
number of paid excursions, such
as the Cave of the Winds
elevator ride to the base of the
falls, and the Maid of the Mist
boat ride, which departs from
Prospect Park and passes
directly in front of the Falls
and into the river’s Horseshoe
Basin, for a view of the more
Buffalo’s skyline on a sunny morning from the city harbor dramatic Canadian Falls.
The pedestrian-friendly
what was originally the New r Niagara Falls Rainbow Bridge provides quick
York State Pavilion, the only passage from downtown Niagara
* 49,500. ~ £ @ n 10 Rainbow
building to survive from the Falls to the Canadian side, where
Blvd, (716) 282-8992. ∑ niagara-usa.
1901 Pan-American Festival. most of the area’s commercial
com
Its numerous exhibits focus on attractions are located. At
the town’s rich ethnic and Louis Hennepin, the French night, the Falls are dramatically
industrial heritage. priest who was one of the first illuminated by electricity
The nearby Albright-Knox Europeans to gaze upon generated by the Niagara Power
Art Gallery overlooks bucolic Niagara Falls in 1678, wrote that Project. Its visitor center traces
Delaware Park, designed by “the Universe does not afford its the development of hydro-
Frederick Law Olmsted (see p88). parallel.” Even today the three electricity in the area and
On display are works by Picasso Niagara Falls waterfalls, which features an operating model
and de Kooning, and a large plunge nearly 200 ft (61 m) into of a hydropower turbine.
collection of North American a rocky gorge, are as awe-
paintings by Jackson Pollock, Frida inspiring as they were over 300 P Niagara Falls State Park
Kahlo, and others. Also worth a years ago. Despite the rampant Prospect St. Tel (716) 278-1796.
side-trip to the town of LeRoy is development on both the US Open sunrise–sunset daily.
the Jell-O Gallery Museum, on and Canadian sides of the Visitor Center: 8am–10pm in summer;
Main Street, containing displays Niagara River (which separates 8am–6pm in winter. 7 0 =
∑ niagarafallsstatepark.com
and trivia relating to “America’s the Canadian province of
Cave of the Winds: Goat Island.
favorite dessert.” Ontario from New York State),
Open May 1–Jun 23: 9am–5pm Sun–
the spectacle still provides
Thu, 9am–9pm Fri & Sat; Jun 24–Sep 4:
E Albright-Knox Art Gallery enough drama, mist, and 9am–9pm Sun–Thu, 9am–10pm Fri &
1285 Elmwood Ave, off Rte 198. romance to lure more than Sat; Sep 5–Oct 9: 9am–7pm Sun–Thu,
Tel (716) 882-8700. Open 10am–5pm 10 million tourists a year. 9am–9pm Fri & Sat, Oct 10–23:
Tue–Sun (to 10pm first Fri of month). Visitors on the American side 9am–5pm daily. & 7 Maid of the
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. often start their exploration Mist Ride: Prospect Park.
&87=90 with a visit to Niagara Falls Open 9am–7:45pm in summer;
∑ albrightknox.org State Park, where the 240-ft check at office for details. & 7

The majestic Niagara Falls, one of the most dramatic spectacles the country offers
106  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

New Jersey ancient pre-Columbian, Asian,

and African art to modern
Despite the industrial image earned by New Jersey’s works. The University Chapel is
manufacturing and railroad towns such as Newark and one of the world’s largest – of
Hoboken, the “Garden State” really does live up to its special interest are the Gothic
architecture, stained-glass
moniker. Outside the urban, industrial corridor that lies windows, and the superb
across the Hudson River from New York City and extends 16th-century French pulpit and
all the way into Philadelphia, New Jersey is a gentle country lectern. About 30 gargoyles in
of green and orderly small towns, dairy farms, rolling hills, different styles decorate buildings
pine forests, and miles and miles of white sandy beaches on the campus, including the
Firestone Library. Inside this
along the Atlantic Ocean.
building, the Cotsen Children’s
Library features a small museum
with works by Beatrix Potter,
the Brothers Grimm, and Hans
Christian Andersen.

P Princeton University
Visitors’ Center
Welcome Desk, First Campus Center.
Tel (609) 258-1766. Open daily. 8
11:15am, 1pm, 3:30pm Mon–Sat, 1pm,
3:30pm Sun. Closed public hols. 7
∑ princeton.edu

y Atlantic City
* 39,000. ~ £ @ n Boardwalk
Strolling on the peaceful campus of Princeton University Information Center at Mississippi
Ave, (609) 449-7130. ∑ atlantic
t Princeton exhibits and walking tours, citynj.com
* 30,110. £ @ n Princeton highlighting the town’s fine
Chamber of Commerce, 182 Nassau 18th-century architecture. Called the “Queen of the Coast”
St, Suite 301, (609) 924-1776. The popular Palmer Square, by generations of beachgoers,
∑ visitprinceton.org on Nassau Street, is home to Atlantic City has been a favored
Nassau Inn, which is the 1930s vacation spot since the mid-
The central New Jersey village replica of the older colonial inn, 1800s. The first casino opened
of Princeton witnessed Princeton’s premier hotel. on the boardwalk in 1978,
considerable activity during the The College of New Jersey, and since then the town has
Revolutionary War period, one of the 14 original Colonial become one of the most
changing hands between colleges, moved to Princeton popular destinations on the
British forces under General in 1756 and was renamed eastern seaboard.
Charles Cornwallis and the Princeton University in 1896. All gambling – euphemistically
Continental Army, led by Nassau Hall, a landmark referred to as “gaming”– takes
General George building on campus, was place in the large, ostentatious,
Washington. The once- the site of the initial casino-hotels that lie within a
sleepy agricultural village meeting of the New Jersey
is now a pleasant tree- State Legislature in 1776.
lined town, combining Renowned physicist Albert
sophisticated shops, Einstein spent his
lodgings, and a final years here at
variety of the Institute for
restaurants, with Princeton’s tiger Advanced Study.
one of America’s most mascot Today, the campus
prestigious universities. covers 2.5 sq miles
The center of Princeton’s (6.5 sq km), and the university
shopping and dining area is enrolls 6,000 students annually.
Nassau Street. Located here The grounds include sculptures
is Updike Farmstead at 354 by Picasso, Henry Moore, Louise
Quaker Road, which now Nevelson, and Alexander Calder.
accommodates The Historical The Art Museum in McCormick
Society of Princeton. The Hall displays paintings and A casino along the boardwalk at
Society offers local history sculptures that range from Atlantic City
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 NEW JERSEY  107

is made up of so-called
“cottages,” two- and three-
story buildings intended as
summer homes for large
families. They have been built
in styles popular at the turn of
the 20th century, ranging from
lacy Queen Anne to Italianate.
Most of the historic homes
have been lovingly restored to
period condition, and some
are open to the public. Many
others have been converted
into B&B (bed-and-breakfast)
lodgings. There are several
Lucy, the Margate Elephant, near Atlantic City tours of the Victorian homes,
including a special trolley tour.
block of the boardwalk and u Cape May The Historic Cold Spring
beach. Although the casinos are Village is a living history museum
* 3,610. £ @ n Cape May
justly famous for their nightlife, consisting of 25 authentically
Welcome Center, 609 Lafayette &
families will find plenty of other Elmira Sts, Cape May, (609) 884-5508. restored buildings set on a
entertainment during the day. ∑ capemay.com 20-acre (8-ha) site. Costumed
Atlantic City’s boardwalk, lined interpreters portray 19th-
with shops and amusement First explored by Cornelius Mey century lifestyles that would
arcades, is always busy with for the Dutch West India have been common in a
people enjoying a stroll at any Company in 1621, Cape May is southern New Jersey rural
time of day or night. Another way one of the oldest seashore community. Trades and crafts
to see the boardwalk is in a “Rolling resorts on the Atlantic Coast. such as pottery making, book-
Chair,” a rickshaw-like wicker chair Visited by a number of US binding, and blacksmithing are
on wheels that seats up to three presidents including James also demonstrated.
people. Beyond the boardwalk, Buchanan, Ulysses S. Grant, Nearby, the Cape May County
white-sand beaches beckon Benjamin Harrison, and Franklin Park and Zoo is home to 250
sunbathers and swimmers. Pierce, it was popular with species of animals; some, such
The Atlantic City has hosted the socialites from New York and as Brazilian golden lion tamarins,
prestigious Miss America Pageant, Philadelphia during the late are rare or endangered. The
which had been held here since 1800s. Since then, this resort at park, which is free, also features
1928, and was last held here in the southernmost point of a 35-acre (14-ha) African savanna
2015. In nearby Margate City, New Jersey, has continued to habitat accessed by an 800-ft-
Lucy, the Margate Elephant enjoy a fine reputation among (244-m-) long boardwalk.
stands tall in celebration of beach lovers. A small boardwalk
American marketing ingenuity. and sandy beach afford a P Historic Cold Spring Village
Built by a real-estate developer lovely view of sunrise over the 720 US 9, Cape May. Tel (609) 898-
in 1881 to draw prospects to his Atlantic Ocean. 2300. Open late Jun–Labor Day:
holdings, “Lucy” has served as a Today, the area is characterized 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun; Labor
residence and a tavern over the by the great Victorian building Day–late Jun: 10:30am–4:30pm
years. Today, guided tours take boom that took place in the Mon–Fri, 11am–3pm Sat. & 7 -
= ∑ hcsv.org
visitors into the 90-ton (90,000-kg) 19th century. The central district
structure that has become
instantly recognizable as part of
the Jersey Shore and Atlantic City.

P Rolling Chair
Atlantic City Famous Rolling Chair Co.,
1605 Boardwalk. Tel (609) 347-7148.
P Lucy, the Margate Elephant
9200 Atlantic Ave, Margate City.
Tel (609) 823-6473. Open mid-Jun–
Labor Day: 10am–8pm Mon–Sat,
10am–5pm Sun; Jan–Mar: 11am–4pm
Sat & Sun; Apr & Nov–Dec: 11am–4pm
Wed–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun; May–
mid-Jun & Sep–Oct: 11am–4pm
Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. &
∑ lucytheelephant.org One of Cape May’s charming bed-and-breakfast lodgings
108  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

i Philadelphia
Pennsylvania’s largest city, Philadelphia or the “City of
Brotherly Love,” is also the birthplace of the nation.
In 1776, representatives from the 13 American colonies
signed the Declaration of Independence here, and the
city served as an early capital of the fledgling United
States. Since its founding by English Quaker William Penn
in the late 17th century, Philadelphia’s port on the
Delaware River has welcomed thousands of immigrants
from all over the world. Their labor strengthened the
expanding city through two centuries of industrial
growth, wars, and economic reversals. Even today, the
city’s neighborhoods and restaurants reflect this ethnic
mix. Philadelphia’s rich history, world-class art collections,
William Penn’s statue on Philadelphia
special-interest museums, fine restaurants and hotels, and City Hall
the nation’s largest landscaped public park combine to
make the city one of America’s most popular destinations.

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BROA
BROA

NI A N ET ET
ER

ER

12TH

12TH

S T R SE T R E
ET ET
15TH

15TH

JUNIP

JUNIP

S A NS A N
S O M
S O M
S T RS T R
E E TE E T
W AWL A L
N UNTU T
Key S T SR T R
E E ET E T
Sight/Place of interest
Expressway
Getting Around
Philadelphia’s excellent local transit system, SEPTA,
operates buses throughout Greater Philadelphia in
addition to two subway lines: the Market–Frankford
line (east–west, under Market St) and the Broad
Street line (north–south). Purple-painted, tourist-
oriented “Philly Phlash” shuttles travel in a loop
through downtown to all major attractions (May to
December; weekends only from September). Taxis are
For keys to symbols see back flap plentiful and moderately priced.
 PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA  109

Sights at a Glance Greater Philadelphia

1 Independence Hall
2 Second Bank of the
13 13
United States 1 1

Kensington
Kensington
3 US Mint

kill River
kill River
4 Independence
Seaport Museum yl yl
hu hu
Sc Sc Brewerytown
Brewerytown
5 Reading Terminal Market
6 Masonic Temple Hestonville
Hestonville
95 95
7 Pennsylvania Academy of Ludlow
Ludlow

Fine Arts 13 13

8 College of Physicians of University

University
City City 676 676
Philadelphia/Mütter Museum

.
.
Delaware R
Delaware R
0 km 2

Greater Philadephia 0 miles 2

76 76 Airport
Airport
(see inset map)
9 Eastern State Penitentiary Key
0 Philadelphia Zoo Area of main map
q Fairmount Park
Highway
w Philadelphia Museum of Art
Major road
e The Barnes Foundation
Other road

0 meters 250

0 yards 250

VINV
E I NSET S T
R E E RT E E T
E X P ER X P R
ESSW E SAS Y
E ST

WAY W O OWDO O D
WINTW ERINTER S T R ESET R E E
MARVIN

R EE T

R EE T

CE ST

CE ST

STREESTTREET T T

CH
C IHNI A
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OWNN
REET

REET

LI N S T

LI N S T

S P R ISNP R I N
L AW R EN

L AW R EN

G SG T R ESET R E E
T T V I NVEI N E
8TH ST

8TH ST

S T RS ET R E
R A CREA C E Chinatown
Chinatown E T E T
F RA NK

F RA NK

N E WN E W
S T RSET R E B E NB E N S T R ESET R E E
ET ET T T
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STREET

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ST ST F R AF R A
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HUTCH

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TREET
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Greyhound
Greyhound
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BREA D

BREA D

Bus Depot
Bus Depot
STRE

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7TH

7TH
STRE

STRE

ST R E

ST R E
STRE

COMM
COMM F IL B EFRT
IL B E RT
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S T R E E T

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8th Street-
8th Street- T S TT S T
S T RE ET

S T RE ET

C ICTIYT Y
LEV

LEV

Market
Market 5th 5th
2ND

2ND

M AMR A R Street
Street
K EK C O MC O M
E E T

E E T

TET M E RM E R
CE C
BOU

BOU

S TE R ES T R E
STR
STER EET ET ET
R A NRSA N S ET
ST R

ST R

T E A TDE A D
E E T

E E T

C H E CS H
TNE SUT N U STRE
STRE LUDL O
LUDL O
E E TST
INE STT

T T ET ET W STW ST 2nd 2nd

Street
Street
ERRYE E T
ST

T
E E T

S TR E E

RRY S
S T BRODLINE

K B S TR

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ST

ST
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S T R

S T R

E E T

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S T R ES T R E TEA D ST D ST
1 0T H

1 0T H

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S T R

HO HORS
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IONIC ALLEYALRS
UMB

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LEEY E
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ST ST
9 T H

9 T H

C H ECSH E S
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SBTAN

S T SRTRA

T N UTTN U T
S T R

S T R

ST RE
LETITIA

LETITIA

S T RSET R E
N T

N T

Philosophical
Philosophical ET ET
COL

COL

Hall Hall
F R O

F R O

Second
Second
3 R D

3 R D

Hall Hall
W

6 T H

6 T H

of theof the INDEPENDENCE

TombTomb INDEPENDENCE
SQUARE
SQUARE
2ND

2ND
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E E T

E E T

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INGTO

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W AW
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L NAULTN U T
S T R

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ST J AM
ST J AM
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E S ST E S ST S T RSETERTE E T
PRES

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WASHINGTON
WASHINGTON
5 T H

5 T H
W ASH

W ASH

SQUARE
SQUARE
LO CULSO CUS SO SC OICEITEYT Y
E EX

E EX

WAS HWAS H T ST T ST ST. JASM

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4 T H

4 T H

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DO

SOUTHSOUN N
THSQ SQ ES PL ES PL
CHR
WAY 'S
EPH'S

CH
CK

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ST. JOS

ST. JOS

MARSM ARSHA DOCK

DOCK
STREET

STREET

HALL ST LL ST ST ST
S P RS P R LO C ULSO C U S
DELA

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E ET E ET
S T RS T R
E E TE E T
110  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

Independence National
Historic Park
Known locally as Independence Mall, this 45-acre (18-ha)
urban park encompasses several well-preserved 18th-century
structures associated with the American Revolution. The
Declaration of Independence that heralded the birth of a new
nation was signed in this historic area. Dominated by the tall
brick tower of Independence Hall, the park includes the oldest
street in Philadelphia, the US Mint, and several special-
interest museums exploring Philadelphia’s Colonial and Plaque commemorating
seafaring past as well as its ethnic heritage. Around 20 of the Independence Hall
buildings are now open to the public.
Arch St. Friends
Meeting House

Christ Church Burial

Ground, where Ben Franklin T T
E
and other notables are buried. E EE
R R
S
T ST
H
E C
C R
National Constitution A A
Center R

African American Museum 6

T
Inspirational stories of Philadelphia’s H
S
famous African-American citizens are T
R
displayed alongside exhibits of E T
E E
contemporary works. T E
R
T
S
T
E
K
R
A
. National Museum of 7 M
American Jewish History T
H
This unique museum S 6
T T
celebrates the history R H
E
of Jews in America E
T S
T
through artifacts such Independence R
E
as this Torah scroll Visitor Center E
T
and ark (mid-1700s)
from the collection
of Congregation
Mikveh The Atwater-Kent Museum
Israel. traces Philadelphia’s history, from
its infancy as a small country
town to current times.

Key
Suggested route

The Liberty Bell

Inscribed with the words, “Proclaim Liberty
throughout all the Land,” the Liberty Bell was 0 meters 500
rung when the Declaration of Independence
0 yards 500
was adopted. It is now located in the new
Liberty Bell Center (see p112).

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA  111

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
n 6th & Market Sts, (800) 537-
7676. Open 8:30am–6pm daily.
Independence Hall, Liberty Bell:
Open 9am–5pm daily. National
Museum of American Jewish
History: Tel (215) 923-3811.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri,
10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. Closed
Elfreth’s Alley Jewish hols. ∑ nmajh.org
The city’s oldest residential Second Bank of the US, the Portrait
street is lined with Gallery: Closed for restoration.
18th-century houses, many of & African American Museum:
which are now shops. Tel (215) 574-0380. Open 10am–
5pm Thu–Sat, noon–5pm Sun.
Betsy Ross House, a & ∑ aampmuseum.org
restored 18th-century
Christ home, is a memorial to
Betsy Ross, who is
Church
credited with stitching
3 2 the first American flag.
R N
D D
S S City Tavern was
T T
R R the venue of
E E
E
T
E frequent debates
T
during Colonial
times. It still serves
food and drink
today.

Franklin Court
Benjamin Franklin lived and
4 worked in these buildings,
T 18th-Century Garden,
H which include the B. Free
T D
E created by the Penn-
R
E S Franklin Post Office and
T T sylvania Horticultural
S R Benjamin Franklin Museum.
T E Society (1827), was the
U E
N T first of its kind in the US.
T
S
E . 2 Second Bank of the US
H
C An extensive collection of
portraits of luminaries involved in
T
E
E the military, diplomatic, and
R political events of 1776 is on
T
S display at this Grecian style
T building (see p112).
U
N
L
A
W

Washington Square Park

. 1 Independence Hall
The centerpiece of the park, this
World Heritage Site was the place
where the Declaration of
Independence was signed on
July 4, 1776 (see p112).
112  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

1 Independence on July 4, 1776. The US daughters, who together form

Hall Constitution was drafted in the America’s most distinguished
same room in 1787. family of artists. After the Revo-
Chestnut St between 5th & 6th Sts.
The large, brass Liberty Bell lutionary War, Peale began
Tel (800) 967-2283 for timed tickets in
that once hung in the tower collecting portraits, and today,
Mar–Dec. q 5th St. @ Philly Phlash.
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–6pm
has now been placed in the 94 of his original paintings,
Sat & Sun. 7 8 ∑ nps.gov/inde new Liberty Bell Center near including likenesses of the
Independence Hall. In 1846, a American Founding Fathers
Just west of the small crack developed George Washington and
Delaware River, this and the bell could Alexander Hamilton, and the
unadorned brick no longer be Continental Army’s French ally,
building is the most sounded. However, the Marquis de Lafayette, are on
important structure it remains the best- display along with the
in the Independence known symbol of portraiture of other artists.
Hall National Park. the Colonial struggle
Previously designated for self-governance.
the State House of The center incorporates 3 US Mint
Pennsylvania, it is displays that 151 N Independence Mall East.
the site of the highlight Liberty Tel (215) 408-0112. q 5th St.
drafting of the Bell’s importance Open 9am–4:30pm Mon–Sat in
Declaration of The Liberty Bell on display near to the story summer; 9am–4:30pm Mon–Fri in
Independence, the Independence Hall of America’s winter; call ahead. Closed public hols.
document that independence. 7 8 = ∑ usmint.gov
declared America’s freedom
from the British Empire. The Philadelphia mint, the
Independence Hall, 2 Second Bank of oldest in the US, makes most of
completed in 1748, was the United States the coins that Americans use
designed by master carpenter 420 Chestnut St. Tel (215) 965-2305.
every day, and also produces
Edmund Woolley and lawyer Open check website for hours. gold bullion coins and national
Andrew Hamilton. The ∑ nps.gov/inde medals. The first US coins,
chambers of the meeting minted in 1793, were copper
rooms are furnished simply, as Built between the years 1819 pennies and half pennies
they were during the late and 1824, this is one of America’s intended solely for local
1700s. Today, park personnel finest examples of Greek Revival commerce in the colonies.
re-create history by pointing architecture. Once a repository Today, 24 hours a day, 5 days a
out the Windsor-style chairs that provided credit for federal week, hundreds of machines
from which Colonial leaders government and private and operators in a room the size
debated the contents of the businesses, it now houses a of a football field blank, anneal,
Declaration. Although the collection of late 18th- and early count, and bag millions of dollars’
Continental Congress rejected 19th-century portraits. On view worth of quarters, dimes, and
two passages in the first draft – are 185 paintings of Colonial pennies. Commemorative coins
an ill-tempered reference to the and federal leaders, military are available in the gift shop.
English people, and a bitter officers, explorers, and scientists.
denunciation of the slave trade – Many of the portraits are by
the document was adopted Charles Willson Peale (1741– 4 Independence
without significant change
and approved by Congress
1827), his brother James, and
their respective sons and
Seaport Museum
211 S Columbus Blvd. Tel (215) 925-
5439. q 2nd St. @ Philly Phlash.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (in
summer till 7pm Thu–Sat).
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
& 7 ∑ phillyseaport.org

Quartered in a stunning modern

building on the waterfront,
this 100,000-sq-ft (9,290-sq-m)
museum’s mandate is to preserve
US maritime history and
traditions, with special focus on
the Chesapeake Bay, and the
Delaware River and its tributaries.
Displays combine art and
artifacts with hands-on computer
Aerial view of Independence Hall games, large-scale models, and
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA  113

audiovisuals. The Ben Franklin throne in Canterbury Cathedral.

Bridge, which connects The halls, still in use, were
Pennsylvania with New Jersey, is created to honor the building
re-created in the museum as a trades, and much of the stone
three-and-a-half story replica that and tilework are imperceptibly
straddles a working model of faux-finished – an attestation
the Delaware River. to the skill of the men who
Other highlights include made them. President George
“Tides of Freedom,” focusing on Washington wore his Masonic
the history of African presence apron when he laid the
on the Delaware River, and cornerstone of the Capitol
“Workshop on the Water,” an building in Washington, DC.
active boat shop and gallery The apron is on display in the
where visitors can watch as museum on the first floor.
artisans craft traditional wooden Equestrian statue in the Masonic
19th-century boats. The World Temple courtyard
War II submarine USS Becuna, 7 Pennsylvania
commissioned in 1943, and the 6 Masonic Temple Academy of Fine
USS Olympia, Admiral George
Dewey’s flagship in the Battle
1 N Broad St. Tel (215) 988-1917.
q City Hall. @ Philly Phlash.
Arts
of Manila (1898), are berthed Open tours at 10am, 11am, 1, 2, 3pm 118 N Broad S at Cherry St. Tel (215)
next to the museum. Tue–Fri, 10am, 11am, noon Sat. 972-7600. q 15th St, Rocelvine.
Closed Jan 1, Easter, Jul–Aug: Sat; @ Philly Phlash. Open 10am–5pm
Thanksg., Dec 25. 7 & 8 Tue–Fri (to 9pm Wed), 11am–5pm Sat
∑ pamasonictemple.org/temple & Sun. Closed public hols. & 7 -
= ∑ pafa.org
An architectural jewel dedi-
cated in 1873 as the Grand The collection of this museum
Lodge of Free and Accepted and school, founded in 1805,
Masons of Pennsylvania, this spans the history of American
remarkable building contains painting. Galleries display works
a number of meeting halls in by some of the art world’s best-
various decorative styles. known denizens. One of them,
Among them, the Oriental the Classical stylist Benjamin
Coffee shop in Philadelphia’s Reading Hall’s (1896) coloring and West (1738–1820), a Quaker from
Terminal Market ornamentation has been copied Philadelphia, helped organize the
from the Alhambra in Granada, British Royal Academy in 1768,
5 Reading Terminal Spain, the Renaissance Hall and four years later was named
Market (1908) follows an Italian
Renaissance motif, while the
Historical Painter to the King.
Impressionist and former
51 N 12th St. Tel (215) 922-2317. Egyptian Hall (1889) takes its Academy of Fine Arts student
q City Hall, 13th St, Juniper St. inspiration from the Temples of Mary Cassatt (1844–1926), and
@ Philly Phlash. Open 8am–6pm
Luxor, Karnak, and Philae. modern abstractionist Richard
Mon–Sat, 9am–5pm Sun. High arches, pinnacles, and Diebenkorn (1922–93), among
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. 7
spires form the Gothic Hall, and others, share wall space.
∑ readingterminalmarket.org
the cross-and-crown emblem of This distinctive building is
This market was created under- Sir Knights – “Under this sign considered one of the finest
neath a train shed after two you will conquer” – hangs over examples of Victorian-Gothic
farmers’ markets were leveled a replica of the Archbishop’s architecture in America.
to make space for a new terminal
in 1892. So modern was the
market that people came from
as far as the New Jersey shore
to buy fresh Lancaster County
produce. Reading Terminal
Market declined over the years
and was nearly destroyed in
the 1970s. Today, however, it
has been revitalized, and fish-
mongers, butchers, bakers,
florists, and greengrocers vie
for space with dairy and
baked goods stands run by
Amish women. The Foxhunt by Winslow Homer, Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts
114  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

boundary walls. Each solitary

cell had a private outdoor
exercise yard contained by
a 10-ft (3-m) wall. Eastern
State’s many “guests” included
bootlegger and crime lord
Al Capone. The prison was
officially closed in 1971.

0 Philadelphia Zoo
3400 W Girard Ave. Tel (215) 243-1100.
@ Philly Phlash. Open Mar–Oct:
9:30am–5pm daily; Nov–Feb: 9:30am–
4pm daily. Closed Jan 1, Thanksg., Dec
Displays of medical curiosities at Mütter Museum 24, 25 & 31. 7 & 0 - =
∑ philadelphiazoo.org
8 College of 9 Eastern State
Physicians of Penitentiary This zoo, the oldest in America,
was founded in 1859. Set within
Philadelphia/ 2027 Fairmount Ave at 22nd St. verdant grounds, interspersed
Mütter Museum Tel (215) 236-3300. @ 7, 32, 33, 43, with statuary, the zoo is home
48. Open 10am–5pm daily.
19 S 22nd St. Tel (215) 560-8564. to over 2,000 animals, including
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
q 22nd St. @ 17, 21. Open 10am– & 7 8 9 ∑ easternstate.org
rare species such as naked mole
5pm daily. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, rats and blue-eyed black lemurs.
Dec 24 & 25. & 7 Named the “house” by inmates A walk-through giant otter
∑ muttermuseum.org and guards, the Eastern State habitat shows the animals at
Penitentiary, established in their playful best. The big cats –
Founded in 1787 for the 1829, was a revolutionary lions, clouded leopards, tigers
“advancement of the science concept in criminal justice. (including rare Amur tigers),
of medicine,” the still-active Prior to this, criminals were and jaguars – are kept in near-
college is a major source of thrown together in despicable natural habitats or inside the
health information. This is conditions and punished by Carnivora House, in weather-
provided by the institute’s C. physical brutality. The protected cages that provide
Everett Koop Community Philadelphia Quakers proposed close-up views. Other features
Health Information Center, an alternative – a place where are an open birdhouse
through the library, videotapes, a criminal could be alone to with uncaged finches and
and searchable computer system. ponder and become penitent hummingbirds, a reptile house,
Mütter Museum, on the first for his actions. During incar- where alligators bask in a
floor of one of the buildings, ceration, with sentences seldom tropical paradise, and a 3-acre
is a fascinating collection of less than five years in length, (1-ha) reserve for 11 primate
preserved specimens, skeletal prisoners literally never heard species, including the nation’s
constructions, and wax figures. or saw another human being only blue-eyed lemurs. A large
These were originally used for for the entire duration of their zoo balloon offers a panoramic
educational purposes in the stay. The prison had a single view of the city.
mid-19th century, when entrance and 30-ft- (9-m-) high
diseases and genetic defects
were identifiable only by their q Fairmount Park
physical manifestations. Some n John F. Kennedy Blvd & N 16th St,
afflictions are quite grotesque, (215) 683-0200. @ Philly Phlash.
and may not be suitable for q Market-Frankford line. Open daily.
small children or those who ∑ myphillypark.org
are queasy.
The museum also contains Designed by Frederick Law
medical instruments, exhibits Olmsted (1822–1903), America’s
on the history of medicine preeminent land-scape archi-
over the last 100 years, a tect who also designed New
re-creation of an early 20th- York’s Central Park, Fairmount
century doctor’s office, and Park is a 14-sq-mile (36-sq-km-)
a medicinal plant garden. greenway. It encompasses
As well as this, it also holds seven historic manor houses
shows displaying contemp- decorated in period style,
orary art, photography, and Corridor inside the Eastern State dozens of sculptures, a
other subjects. Penitentiary horticultural center, and
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA  115

Also in Fairmount Park is the e The Barnes

99-acre (40-ha) Laurel Hill Foundation
Cemetery. This vast “park within
Philadelphia Campus, 2025 Benjamin
a park” is dotted with obelisks,
Franklin Parkway. Tel (610) 667-0290.
statuary, and classic Greek @ 44. Open 10am–5pm Wed–Mon
mausoleums. It was such a (6–9pm first Fri of the month).
popular picnic and walking Closed public hols. & 7 8 =
area during the late Victorian ∑ barnesfoundation.org
period that admission was by
ticket only. Established in the year 1922 to
share the private collection of
pharmaceutical magnate Albert
w Philadelphia C. Barnes with “people of all
Museum of Art socioeconomic levels,” this
26th St & Benjamin Franklin Pkwy. museum has one of the world’s
Tel (215) 763-8100. @ Philly Phlash, 7, premier displays of French
32, 38, 43, 48. Open 10am–5pm Tue– modern and Post-Impressionist
Downtown Philadelphia rising above Sun; main building open on Wed & Fri paintings. Among the more
Fairmount Park till 8:45pm. Closed Mon, legal hols. than 800 works on view, there
& Sun donation. 7 9 8 0 - are 180 by Auguste Renoir,
Japanese house and gardens = ∑ philamuseum.org 69 by Paul Cézanne, 60 by
among other features. A water- Henri Matisse, and more by
works, innovative in 1840, This museum attracts major Picasso, Seurat, Modigliani, van
was designed and built to exhibitions to supplement Gogh, Rousseau, and almost
pump water from the Schuylkill its superlative permanent every other noteworthy artist
River, which divides the park collection ranging from of that era. Other exhibits
into east and west. The grounds 15th-century illuminated include ancient Greek and
are interspered with roads, manuscripts to modern sculp- Egyptian art, medieval
hiking, biking, and bridle trails. ture by Constantin Brancusi. manuscripts, African sculpture,
Visitors can also rent rowboats The full-scale medieval cloister American furniture, ceramics,
and canoes. courtyard and fountain on and handwrought ironwork.
A handful of rowing clubs the second floor is a The art is
occupy Victorian boathouses favorite, as are the displayed to
along the river. The boathouses French Gothic highlight artistic
are turreted, gabled, and decor- chapel and a affinities between
ated with coats of arms. At pillared temple diverse works.
night, when viewed from the from Madurai, For instance, the
West Fairmount Park shore, India. Throughout Barnes Collection
the houses are outlined with the museum Medieval diptych, Philadelphia is displayed in
tiny lights. are computerized Museum of Art accordance
In 1894, wealthy manufacturer stations with with Dr. Barnes’
Richard Smith donated Smith information on the exhibits. unique specifications –
Playground to the children of A collection of Pennsylvania paintings, sculpture, and
Philadelphia in memory of his Dutch and American decor- craft pieces are grouped into
son. Among the attractions are ative arts adjoins galleries 96 distinct ensembles, with-
merry-go-rounds, a giant slide, that feature paintings by out labels and with very little
and a mansion and playhouse. American artists. regard to chronology.

The glittering silhouettes of Victorian boathouses along Schuylkill River, Fairmount Park
116  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

Pennsylvania town in the village of Ephrata, is

a collection of medieval-style
Pennsylvania has it all – American history, beautiful scenery, buildings, founded by German
varied activities, lodging, and dining, ranging from the refined settlers in 1732. It was home to
to the simple. Of its two main cities, Philadelphia (see pp108–15), one of America’s earliest
communal societies, semi-
the birthplace of America, is a historic and multi-cultural city, monastics who practiced an
while Pittsburgh re-created itself from a grimy, industrial center austere lifestyle emphasizing
to a sparkling cultural gem on the forks of the Ohio River. Most spirituality, and the artistic use
of the state, however, is rural and bucolic, a green patchwork of of music and the written word.
dairy and produce farms, embroidered with Appalachian In 1745, the colony set up one
of the country’s earliest printing
forests and streams, tidy fields, and small towns.
presses. With the death of the
last resident in 2008, the site is
P Gettysburg National now a museum.
Military Park
Tel (717) 334-1124. Park: Open Apr– E Landis Valley Museum
Oct: 6am–10pm daily; Nov–Mar: 2451 Kissel Hill Rd. Tel (717) 569-0401.
6am–7pm daily. Visitor Center: Open Jan–mid-Mar: 9am–5pm Wed–
8am–5pm daily (to 6pm Apr–Oct). Sat, noon–5pm Sun; mid-Mar–Dec:
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun.
7 8 ∑ nps.gov/gett & 7 = ∑ landisvalley
museum.org

p Lancaster
Memorial at Gettysburg National
* 59,400. £ @ n 501 Greenfield
a Hershey
Military Park
Rd, Lancaster, (800) 723-8824. * 14,300. £ @ n 1255A
∑ lancasterpa.com; Harrisburg Pike, Harrisburg, (800) 995-
o Gettysburg ∑ cityoflancasterpa.com 0969. ∑ hersheypa.com
* 7,700. £ @ n 102 Carlisle St,
This market town at the heart of This factory town, now a pop-
(800) 337-5015. ∑ destination
gettysburg.com the Pennsylvania Dutch Country ular tourist destination, revolves
(see p69) is surrounded by around chocolate, so much so
A pivotal confrontation of the almost 5,000 small farms. The that even its streetlights are
Civil War (see p57) took place near region is famous for the German- shaped like silver-foil-wrapped
the small farming community immigrant “Old Order Amish” Hershey Kisses. The town’s main
of Gettysburg in early July 1863. Christians, who live and work attraction is Chocolate World,
Nearly 100,000 Union soldiers without modern conveniences which features a 15-minute ride
under General George Meade like electricity. The Landis Valley through a series of animated
fought 75,000 Confederates led Museum’s large outdoor tableaux revealing Hershey’s
by Robert E. Lee. After three days collection focuses on the state’s chocolate-making process. A
of fighting, a staggering 50,000 German rural heritage. Among free sample awaits at the end of
soldiers lay dead or wounded, the exhibits are a crossroads the tour, while a series of shops
and the Confederates were village and an adjoining farm- sell souvenirs and every Hershey
turned back. stead with traditional breeds of product made. Nearby is
Though the war raged for animals and heirloom plants. Hersheypark, a 90-acre (36-ha)
another two years, Gettysburg Visitors can see demonstrations amusement park. Hersheypark
was recognized as a turning of skills such as sheepshearing. offers 80 rides, including five
point. To commemorate the site, Ephrata Cloister, northeast of water slides, four roller coasters,
a burial ground was purchased,
and President Lincoln dedicated
the Gettysburg National
Cemetery with his Gettysburg
Address. Several impressive
monuments have been placed
throughout the fields and forests
of the battlefield, now the
Gettysburg National Military
Park. The Cyclorama, a giant
circular mural painted in 1884,
dramatizes a crucial battle scene
– Picket’s Charge, where over
6,000 Confederate soldiers were
killed or wounded. “Sisters House” and “Meeting House” in Ephrata Cloister
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 PENNSYLVANIA  117

and one of the finest Philadelphia

Toboggan Company four-row
carousels in existence today.

 Chocolate World
SR 743 & US 422, Hershey. Tel (717)
534-4900. Open 9am–5pm daily,
hours may vary, so call for details.
7 8 0 - ∑ hersheys.com/
chocolateworld

s York
* 43,550. £ @ n 34 W
Philadelphia St, (717) 852-9675, (888)
858-9675. ∑ yorkpa.org
A lush greenhouse in Longwood Gardens
The first Pennsylvania settle-
ment west of the Susquehanna d Reading wooded Brandywine Valley in
River, York was laid out in 1741. 1906. His aim was to preserve the
* 89,900. £ @ n 2525 N 12th St,
At that time, its inhabitants property’s unusual trees, and to
Reading, (800) 443-6610.
were mainly tavernkeepers ∑ readingpagoda.com provide a place of entertainment
and craftspeople, catering to for his family and friends.
pioneers heading west. Since Once a center of industry, More than 9,000 varieties
then, manufacturing has become Reading has reinvented itself as of plants including spectacular
the prime economic force. a discount-outlet capital, with year-round seasonal displays,
York’s many covered public the VF Outlet Center housing whimsical topiaries, and a
markets include the 1888 more than 50 name-brand children’s garden are open to
Central Market, the best place stores from Brooks Brothers the public. The massive main
in town for local fresh produce, to Mikasa and Wedgwood. greenhouse and conservatory
flowers, meats, baked goods, The 72-ft- (22-m-) tall Reading are engineering marvels. But
and inexpensive restaurants. Pagoda, on the town’s outskirts, the real star of Longwood are
East of historic York, at the is modeled after Nagoya Castle the fabulous fountains, whose
Harley-Davidson Vehicle in Japan, and was built as part choreographed eruptions rise
Operations Plant, giant of an early 1900s resort. Today, above the treetops and are
presses form steel sheets into cherry trees encircle the build- highlighted at night by colored
fenders while gleaming ing, and there are walking trails lights, creating dazzling displays
motorcycles fly overhead. A throughout the adjacent park. that are often the backdrop for
small museum shows Harley- musical events. Shows and
Davidson’s history from its days festivals range from the annual
as a motorized bike company f Longwood Wine & Jazz Festival, which
in 1903 to the present. takes place in May, to
Gardens Longwood Carillon concerts,
P Harley-Davidson Vehicle US 1, Kennett Square. Tel (610) 388- where musicians play 62 cast
Operations Plant 1000. Open 9am–5pm daily; longer bells that ring out throughout
1425 Eden Rd. Tel (877) 883-1450. hrs in summer. & 7 8 0 - = the foliage. The gardens are also
Open schedule varies, so phone ∑ longwoodgardens.org the setting for many kid-friendly
ahead (children under 12 not allowed events, including colorful kite-
on factory floor). Closed public hols. Pierre du Pont, millionaire flying weekends, summer camp
8 hourly 9am–2pm Mon–Fri. ^ =
financier and industrialist, programs, storytelling sessions,
∑ harley-davidson.com
acquired the 1,000-acre (405-ha) and lively explorations
Longwood Gardens in the of treehouses.

Harley-Davidson
What began as a tinkering
project for 21-year-old William
Harley and 20-year-old Arthur
Davidson, grew into a company that
has dominated racing since 1914. After 15th Anniversary Fat Boy
World War I, the first American entered
Germany on a Harley-Davidson. In 1956, Elvis Presley posed on a model
Last checks at the Harley-Davidson Vehicle KH. Today, Harley Owners Group has more than 900,000 members.
Operations Plant in York
118  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

The 42-story Cathedral of

Learning houses the
University of Pittsburgh’s
Nationality Classrooms,
which seek to reflect the
different ethnic groups that
contribute to the city’s
heritage. Started in the 1930s,
each of the 30 rooms,the last
of which was completed in
2015, has authentic decor
and furnishings depicting a
unique time and place from
5th-century BC Greece to
16th-century Poland.
Pittsburgh’s Golden Triangle, with its downtown skyscrapers In the city’s north side,
the tile-clad exterior of the
g Pittsburgh time, but most of the displays Andy Warhol Museum reflects
* 305,900. ~ £ @ n 425 6th
consist of dioramas that feature the workaday character of
Ave, 30th Floor, (800) 359-0758. taxidermy specimens. the neighborhood.
∑ visitpittsburgh.com At the Carnegie Science Appearances are deceptive
Center on Allegheny Avenue, here, and this former ware-
Located at the point where the the idea is to make science house conceals a brightly
Allegheny and Monongahela accessible through play. More illuminated, ultramodern
rivers come together to form than 40,000 sq ft (3,716 sq m) of interior. The museum cele-
the Ohio River, Pittsburgh is an the 186,000-sq-ft brates the
American success story. It grew (17,280-sq-m) Pittsburgh-born
from a frontier outpost to center is devoted founder of
become an industrial giant, to numerous American Pop
home to the huge mills of the interactive exhibits. Art, Andy Warhol
US Steel conglomerate as well The Miniature (1928–87), through
as the food-processing company Railroad and selections of
Heinz and the Westinghouse Village displays works from its
electric company. From the Civil the rich historical, archives. These
War through World War II, architectural, and include paintings,
Pittsburgh was a thriving cultural heritage and video and
metropolis, but in the 1950s and of western Students relaxing at Pittsburgh film clips. Works of
1960s its fortunes faded. Pennsylvania. In the University related artists are
Endowed by steel magnate four-story Rangos also on display.
Andrew Carnegie, the Carnegie Omnimax® Theater, audience Located 5 miles (8 km)
Museum of Art offers a brilli- members recline while images southeast of Pittsburgh is
antly lit suite of galleries with are projected onto a 79-ft Kennywood Amusement
collections ranging from (24-m) domed ceiling. Park. It was built in 1898 as a
ancient Egyptian sculpture to “trolley park”, a popular name
Impressionist, Post-Impressionist, for recreation areas located at
and modern American art by the end of streetcar lines.
Roy Lichtenstein and Alexander The park offers thrill rides, a
Calder. The Hall of Sculpture is stunt show, and a 1927
a two-storied columned hall carousel made by the Dentzel
that replicates the interior of Company – premier hand-
the Temple of Athena in Athens. carvers of carousel animals.
It is adorned with casts from the
Greek classical era. Next door, E Carnegie Museum
the Hall of Architecture is filled of Art
with reproductions of some of 4,400 Forbes Ave. Tel (412) 622-
the best examples of classical, 3131. Open 10am–5pm Mon & Wed–
medieval, and Renaissance Sat (to 8pm Thu), noon–5pm Sun.
architectural details. The Carnegie Closed public hols. & 8 - =
∑ cmoa.org
Museum of Natural History, in
the same complex, opens out E Andy Warhol Museum
on a central gallery and relies 117 Sandusky St. Tel (412) 237-
on filtered natural light as a 8300. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
part of its architectural charm. Hall of Sculpture at Carnegie Museum of (to 10pm Fri). Closed public hols. &
Exhibits change from time to Art, Pittsburgh - = ∑ warhol.org

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp122–4 and pp125–7
 PENNSYLVANIA  119

h Laurel Highlands
The Amish
n 120 E Main St Ligonier, (800) 333-
5661. ∑ laurelhighlands.org All Amish trace their roots to the Swiss Anabaptist
(“New Birth”) movement of 1525, an offshoot of
To the south of Pittsburgh, ridges the Protestant Reformation, whose creed
gather together, valleys become rejected the formality of established churches.
canyons, and mountain laurel Today’s Old Order Amish are the most
covers the slopes, giving the conservative of the sect, disdaining any device
region its name. The splendid that would connect them to the larger world,
1,700-ft- (518-m-) deep including electricity, phones, and cars.
Youghiogheny Gorge cuts Conspicuous because of their plain, dark
attire – with white prayer caps for the
through the scenic Laurel Ridge
women and straw hats for the men –
Mountains, where an area of
and their horse-and-buggy mode of
nearly 30 sq miles (77 sq km) transportation, the Amish in America are
forms the Ohiopyle State Park. little changed from their 17th-century Amish buggy on a rural
The park includes more than ancestors who came seeking religious freedom. highway
28 miles (45 km) of the
Youghiogheny River. White-
water rafting is popular here, as P Fallingwater completed in 1936, is one of
are hiking, jogging, biking, and SR 381, Mill Run. Tel (724) 329-8501. 20 huge locks and dams on the
cross-country skiing on the Open mid-Mar–end-Nov: 10am–4pm Ohio River from Pittsburgh to
43- mile (69-km) Youghiogheny Thu–Tue (11:30am–3pm Sat & Sun in Cairo, Illinois. The dam creates
River Trail. Dec). Closed Jan, Feb, Easter, a pool more than 18 miles
Fallingwater, an archi- Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 8 (29 km) long for recreational
∑ fallingwater.org
tectural tour de force by and commercial use.
renowned architect Frank Lloyd McConnells Mill State Park
Wright, lies north of the park. follows the path of Slippery
j Western Amish
Built in 1936, the house reflects Rock Creek and contains a
Wright’s interest in structures Country former water-driven gristmill,
that were an integral part of n 229 S Jefferson St, New Castle, now a museum. The untamed
the landscape. (888) 284-7599. ∑ visitlawrence beauty of Slippery Rock Gorge is
Laurel Ridge State Park county.com very popular with rock climbers
stretches from the village of and rappellers. Moraine State
Ohiopyle in the west to the The scenic territory around the Park, about 5 miles (8 km)
Conemaugh River in the east. town of New Castle, 56 miles east of McConnells Park, is a
The 70-mile (113-km) Laurel (145 km) from Pittsburgh, is small paradise reborn from
Highlands Hiking Trail is open all a hand-stitched quilt of an industrial wasteland where
year round. The Johnstown Flood agricultural acreage, parks, and mining flourished until the
Museum chronicles the Conemaugh villages. Like the residents of the 1950s. Mines were then sealed,
River disaster that killed more Pennsylvania Dutch Country gas and oil wells plugged, and
than 2,000 people and destroyed near Lancaster (see p116), a large the 5-sq-mile (13-sq-km) Lake
Johnstown in 1889. population of Old Order Amish Arthur was constructed.
and Mennonites have plowed
} Ohiopyle State Park and planted farms in the Enon } McConnells Mill State Park
7 Sheridan St, Ohiopyle. Tel (724) 329- Valley, near New Castle. Portersville. Tel (724) 368-8091.
8591. Open daily. Montgomery Locks and Dam, Open sunrise–sunset daily.

The Youghiogheny River looping through Ohiopyle State Park, Laurel Highlands
120  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

Practical Information Atlantic City. Seat belts are

required for drivers and front-
Successful traveling around New York, New Jersey, and seat passengers in the entire
Pennsylvania benefits from advance planning, simply because Mid-Atlantic Region. Most
there is so much to see and do in such a concentrated area. states also require seat belts
for back-seat passengers, and
The major cities are packed with attractions, hotels, and child seats are required for all
restaurants, while the expansive and diverse areas in between automobile occupants age 4
often double as resort areas, catering to city-dwellers in need and under. Speed limits vary
of a change of pace. Depending upon the time, you can explore but are usually 70 to 75 mph
significant historical sights, appreciate stunning scenery, take (113 to 121 km/h) on Interstate
Highways outside of densely
in a local celebration, or simply relax along the coast.
populated urban areas, weather
permitting. Talking on a cell
phone while driving is danger-
Tourist Information toppling due to strong winds. ous and against the law.
New York, New Jersey, and Western New York State and
Pennsylvania each publishes a Pennsylvania experience
wide variety of informative, richly extreme winter conditions; Events & Festivals
illustrated travel brochures. All the Adirondacks face severe New York City and the
of this information can be winter storms and sub-zero Mid-Atlantic states stage a
ordered by telephone or temperatures, while sudden diverse range of annual
accessed via websites, and heavy snowfalls often cause community, regional, and
further information is available chaos in New York City. Visitors national festivals. One of the
from the multitude of local should listen for weather nation’s most unusual annual
and regional tourism bureaus warnings and broadcasts on events takes place in central
across the three states. The the radio and TV. Pennsylvania on February 2,
wealth of available information when a chubby rodent named
covers climate, transportation, “Punxsutawney Phil” wakes up
attractions, accommodations, Getting Around from his winter hibernation on
restaurants, recreation, festivals, Unlike much of the US, the Groundhog Day. “Phil” forecasts
regional history, and much more. Mid-Atlantic is a region where the advent of spring, which in
you can get around without a US folklore is related to whether
car. Some of the faster train he can see his shadow. In
Natural Hazards services in the US link New York March, as an expression of New
Thunderstorms occur frequently and Washington, DC with York City’s strong Irish heritage,
across the Mid-Atlantic Region. Philadelphia, bringing the two the city politicians and other
A basic precaution that visitors cities within an hour of each characters march through the
should take, if they find other. Other lines run across city as part of a boisterous
themselves in the middle of a Pennsylvania, up the Hudson St. Patrick’s Day celebration.
sudden storm, is never to stand Valley between New York City Summer brings a deluge of
under a tree, as they are perfect and Albany, then across to outdoor events, fireworks,
targets for lightning strikes. Also, Buffalo and Niagara Falls, and concerts in city parks.
there is danger of the tree and between Philadelphia and Street festivals are the norm
for community celebrations of
the July 4 Independence Day
The Climate of the Mid-Atlantic Region holiday. County and state fairs
Weather across the vast Mid-Atlantic Region can be as varied as crop up in the Mid-Atlantic
the scenery. New York’s Adirondack countryside in July and August,
Mountains are famed for the as do music festivals like the
NEW YORK CITY
extremities of climate, while in Glimmerglass Opera Festival
Long Island and the coastal areas in Cooperstown. The Christmas
of New Jersey the climate is ºF /°C 79/26 shopping season kicks off with
milder. Western New York and 69/20
the annual extravaganza of
63/17
Pennsylvania see some of the 59/15 massive inflatable figures in
nation’s heaviest snowfalls in 49/9
32°F 43/6 37/3 the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day
winter. By late spring, the snows 0°C 26/-3 parade in New York City.
melt and the foliage returns to the
17 20 19 16
gardens. Summer brings warm
days days days days
weather and high humidity, and Sports
thunderstorms that can put a 3.8 4 3 3

sudden end to a pleasant day. in in in in With high-quality professional

Late summer and fall have month Apr Jul Oct Jan teams in every major sport, the
comparatively stable weather. New York and Mid-Atlantic
Region is a great place to watch
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  121

some of the world’s greatest November being one of the New Yorker will point you toward
athletes perform. The cities here more popular events. hundreds of events and activities.
host a wide array of professional Lincoln Center is home to many
and amateur sports teams, with ballet, opera, and orchestral
major pro baseball, football, and Outdoor Activities performances, as is legendary
basketball franchises operating New York State is also home Carnegie Hall. The region’s
in New Jersey, New York City, to one of the country’s prime other large cities, Philadelphia,
Philadelphia, and Pittsburgh. winter sports resorts – Lake Pittsburgh, and Newark, also
Another extremely popular Placid in the Adirondack host numerous cultural and
spectator sport is ice hockey. Mountains, where the 1932 entertainment events. Newark’s
There are also many “minor and 1980 Winter Olympics were New Jersey Performing Arts
league” teams in smaller cities, held. There are also ski areas in Center hosts a superb array of
and hundreds of high-quality the Pocono Mountains of music and art events.
sports teams fielded by the Pennsylvania and New Jersey,
various public and private as well as Camelback Mountain
universities across the region. and Hidden Valley in Western Shopping
The baseball season lasts from Pennsylvania, and Hunter New York City is without a
April to September, football Mountain and Catamount in doubt one of the world’s greatest
from September through Catskills, in New York State. marketplaces, and it is safe to
January, and basketball from For the best skiing, however, say that if you cannot buy a
winter through mid-spring. the most avid skiers head to certain thing here, it probably
However, an extremely the resorts of Vermont and does not exist at all. Everything
popular sports event is the US New Hampshire. ranging from fashionable
Open Tennis Championships, boutiques to cut-price computers
which is held annually in the can be found in Manhattan,
borough of Queens in August. Entertainment and some neighborhoods of
Horse-racing’s Belmont Stakes The world capital of the enter- New York City cater especially
in early June is the last leg of the tainment industry, New York City to the interest of shoppers and
“Triple Crown” championship, is a showcase for just about any bargain hunters. Don’t miss
while throughout the months form of performance. A quick the opportunity to take a trip
of July and August racing read of the many local news- to at least one of the city’s
continues at historic Saratoga papers, like the New York Times exceptional and world-famous
Springs. Participant sports are or the Village Voice, and maga- department stores, such as
also prominent, with the zines such as Time Out New York, Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s,
New York Marathon in New York Magazine, and the Tiffany & Co., or Barney’s.

DIRECTORY
Tourist Baseball Football Lincoln Center
Information Tel (212) 875-5030.
New York Mets Buffalo Bills
∑ lincolncenter.org
Tel (716) 649-0015.
New Jersey Tel (718) 507-8499.
∑ buffalobills.com New Jersey
Tel (800) 847-4865. ∑ newyork.mets.
New York Giants Performing Arts
∑ visitnj.org mlb.com
Tel (201) 935-8222. Center
New York City New York Yankees ∑ giants.com Newark, NJ.
Tel (212) 484-1200. Tel (718) 293-4300. Pittsburgh Steelers Tel (888) 466-5722.
∑ nycgo.com ∑ newyork.yankees. Tel (412) 323-1200. ∑ njpac.org
∑ steelers.com
New York State mlb.com Shopping
Tel (800) 225-5697. Philadelphia Phillies Other Sports
Barney’s
∑ iloveny.com Tel (215) 463-1000. Belmont Stakes 660 Madison Ave, NYC.
∑ philadelphia. Tel (718) 641-4700.
Pennsylvania Tel (212) 826-8900.
∑ nyra.com/belmont
Tel (800) 847-4872. phillies.mlb.com
US Open Tennis Bloomingdale’s
∑ visitpa.com Basketball Championships Lexington & 59th St, NYC.
Queens, New York City. Tel (212) 705-2000.
Festivals New York Knicks ∑ usopen.org Macy’s
Glimmerglass Opera Tel (212) 465-6000.
∑ nba.com/knicks
Entertainment Broadway & 34th, NYC.
Festival Tel (212) 695-4400.
Carnegie Hall
Cooperstown, New York. Philadelphia 76ers Tiffany & Co.
881 7th Ave, New York City.
Tel (607) 547-2255/0700. Tel (215) 339-7600. Tel (212) 247-7800. 727 5th Ave, New York City.
∑ glimmerglass.org ∑ nba.com/sixers ∑ carnegiehall.org Tel (212) 755-8000.
122  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

Where to Stay
is a few minutes’ walk from Price Guide
New York City Wall Street. Prices are based on one night's stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
BROOKLYN: Akwaaba
Mansion $$ DK Choice $ up to $150
B&B Map F5 DOWNTOWN: $$ $150 to $300
$$$ over $300
347 MacDonough St, 11233 Soho Grand Hotel $$$
Tel (718) 455-5958 Boutique Map C4
∑ akwaaba.com 301 W Broadway, 10013 MIDTOWN: Library Hotel $$
This luxurious inn offers Tel (212) 965-3000 Boutique Map D3
themed rooms with Afrocentric ∑ sohogrand.com 299 Madison Ave, 10017
decor such as Daffodil rag dolls Located in the heart of New Tel (212) 983-4500
and Adrinkra fabrics. Other York City, the sophisticated ∑ libraryhotel.com
highlights include a tea room, Soho Grand Hotel offers A library theme drives the decor
a sunny porch, and Southern- fabulous views over down- of this charming hotel. There are
style breakfast. town Manhattan. Luxurious books in all the elegant rooms,
rooms are complemented plus a poetry garden.
DOWNTOWN: Off Soho Suites $ with highly aesthetic decor
Value Map C5 and modern amenities. MIDTOWN: Andaz
11 Rivington St, 10002 Guests can relax in the 5th Avenue $$$
Tel (212) 979-9808 evenings at the famed bar, Boutique Map D3
∑ offsoho.com plush lounge, or on-site 485 5th Ave, 10017
Well-maintained budget suites, restaurant Gilligan’s. Tel (212) 601-1234
with either private or shared ∑ newyork.5thavenue.andaz.
kitchens, modern amenities, and hyatt.com
a fitness center. MIDTOWN: Pod 51 $ This sleek hotel offers loft-style,
Value Map E3 hypoallergenic rooms with state-
DOWNTOWN: Inn at 230 E 51st St, 10022 of-the-art air purification systems.
Irving Place $$ Tel (212) 355-0300
B&B Map D4 ∑ podhotel.com MIDTOWN:
56 Irving Place, 10003 One of New York City’s best budget The London NYC $$$
Tel (212) 533-4600 hotels – the rooms are small and Luxury Map E2
∑ innatirving.com “pod-like” but shrewdly outfitted 151 W 54th St, 10019
This exclusive guesthouse in two with colorful furnishings, comfort- Tel (212) 307-5000
magnificent adjoining brown- able beds, and flat-screen TVs. ∑ thelondonnyc.com
stones offers elegant rooms with A mural of London’s Hyde Park
upscale amenities. MIDTOWN: defines this grand hotel. Enjoy
La Quinta Manhattan $ creative cuisine at Gordon
DOWNTOWN: Crosby Value Map D3 Ramsay’s on-site restaurant.
Street Hotel $$$ 17 W 32nd St, 10001
Boutique Map D4 Tel (212) 736-1600 MIDTOWN: The Standard $$$
79 Crosby St, 10012 ∑ lq.com Boutique Map C3
Tel (212) 226-6400 Guests at no-frills La Quinta 848 Washington St, 10014
∑ firmdalehotels.com Manhattan enjoy comfortable Tel (212) 645-4646
A slice of upscale London, rooms, a lovely rooftop bar, and ∑ standardhotels.com
featuring cheerful rooms, after- complimentary breakfast. This trendy hotel soaring over the
noon tea, fully-equipped gym, Meatpacking District has amazing
and a plush restaurant. MIDTOWN: Riff Chelsea $ river or city views. The rooftop bar
Value Map D3 is a magnet for celebrities.
DOWNTOWN: The James $$$ 300 W 30th St, 10011
Boutique Map C4 Tel (212) 244-7827
27 Grand St, 10013 ∑ riffhotels.com
Tel (212) 465-2000 This hotel offers spacious doubles
∑ jameshotels.com and suites at budget prices, with
Elegant rooms feature rain shared bathrooms. The decor is
showers and natural linens, inspired by the 1980s New York
while the rooftop bar offers party scene.
skyline views.
MIDTOWN:
DOWNTOWN: New York Ace Hotel $$
Marriott Downtown $$$ Boutique Map D3
Business Map C5 20 W 29th St, 10001
85 W St, 10006 Tel (212) 679-2222
Tel (212) 385-4900 ∑ acehotel.com
∑ marriott.com A stylized rock ‘n’ roll hotel with
This modern, grand hotel offers more than 200 rooms, most
stylish and elegant rooms, an featuring art by local and inter-
indoor pool, many on-site rest- national artists. Don’t miss John
aurants, and views of the Dory Osyter Bar, which serves The sumptuous London NYC, Manhattan’s
Statue of Liberty. The hotel delicious cocktails. tallest hotel
 W H E R E TO S TAY  123

UPPER EAST SIDE:

Bentley Hotel $$
Boutique Map E3
500 E 62nd St, 10065
Tel (212) 644-6000
∑ bentleyhotelnyc.com
A towering hotel with stellar
views of the East River. Spacious
rooms feature designer amenities
and marble bathrooms.

UPPER EAST SIDE: The Pierre $$$

Luxury Map E2
2 E 61st St, 10021
Tel (212) 838-8000 Room with Asian-style decor at the Mandarin Oriental
∑ tajhotels.com
A grand lobby gives way to offers spacious rooms and ROCHESTER:
impeccable rooms, some with panoramic views. Strathallan Hotel $$
Central Park views. Amenities in­ Boutique
clude a room­service menu for pets. 550 E Ave, 14607
DK Choice Tel (585) 461-5010
UPPER EAST SIDE: EAST HAMPTON: ∑ strathallan.com
Sherry-Netherland $$$ The Maidstone $$$ This hotel offers stylish and
Luxury Map E3 Luxury comfortable rooms with charming
781 5th Ave, 10022 207 Main St, 11937 European­style decor. Upscale
Tel (212) 355-2800 Tel (631) 324-5006 amenities and friendly service.
∑ sherrynetherland.com ∑ themaidstone.com
This old­world hotel with huge, This plush B&B in the storied SARATOGA SPRINGS:
well­appointed suites offers luxury East End of Long Island opened Saratoga Arms $$
living and top­of­the­line service. to guests in the 1870s. The Luxury
stylish decor does not preclude 497 Broadway, 12866
UPPER WEST SIDE: Hostelling a warm, friendly atmosphere Tel (518) 584-1775
International New York $ with gracious service. The cozy ∑ saratogaarms.com
Value rooms are ultra­comfortable An elegant hotel with historic
891 Amsterdam Ave, 10025 and packed with modern charm and modern amenities.
Tel (212) 932-2300 amenities. It has glorious Romantic rooms have fireplaces.
∑ hinewyork.org gardens and a chic lounge. Breakfast is included.
A vast hostel resembling a
campus dorm, with a cafeteria, SOUTHAMPTON: 1708 House $$
a games room, and picnic tables. LAKE GEORGE: Historic
The Georgian Resort $$ 126 Main St, 11968
UPPER WEST SIDE: Resort Tel (631) 287-1708
Mandarin Oriental $$$ 384 Canada St, 12845 ∑ 1708house.com
Luxury Tel (518) 668-5401 Historic inn with cozy rooms, a
80 Columbus Circle, 10023 ∑ georgianresort.com parlor with a fireplace, and a
Tel (212) 805-8800 A lakeside resort hotel offering wood­paneled reading room.
∑ mandarinoriental.com comfortable rooms, a relaxing Free parking pass for local beaches.
This dramatic hotel, with Asian­ private beach, on­site restaurant,
inspired opulence, offers luxurious and a heated outdoor pool. SYRACUSE: Jefferson
rooms, a trendy bar, and a spa. Clinton Hotel $$
LAKE PLACID: Historic
Lake Placid Lodge $$$ 416 South Clinton St, 13202
Luxury Tel (315) 425-0500
New York State 144 Lodge Way, 12946 ∑ jeffersonclintonhotel.com
Tel (518) 523-2700 Rooms are comfortable and
ALBANY: Morgan State House $ ∑ lakeplacidlodge.com well­appointed at this 1927 hotel
B&B At this legendary property in downtown Armory Square.
393 State St, 12210 on Lake Placid, choose from Complimentary buffet breakfast.
Tel (518) 427-6063 lakeside suites, private cabins,
∑ statehouse.com and lodge rooms. No children
This elegant, European­style urban under 12.
inn in a historic neighborhood has New Jersey
an English garden. Spacious rooms NIAGARA FALLS: The Red
feature luxurious bedding and Coach Inn $$ ATLANTIC CITY: Borgata Hotel
amenities. No children under 16. Historic Casino & Spa $$
2 Buffalo Ave, 14303 Luxury
BUFFALO: Hyatt Regency $ Tel (716) 282-1459 1 Borgata Way, 08401
Business ∑ redcoach.com Tel (609) 317-1000
2 Fountain Plaza, 14202 An English Tudor­style property ∑ theborgata.com
Tel (716) 856-1234 located just minutes from the The dramatic architecture of this
∑ buffalo.hyatt.com Falls. Comfortable rooms are hotel houses spacious rooms, a
Located in the heart of the theater fitted with antiques and a lovely pool, gardens, two spas,
and financial districts, this hotel complimentary breakfast is served. and top­notch dining.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 26–7
124  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

LANCASTER: Lancaster Arts

DK Choice Pennsylvania Hotel $$
CAPE MAY: The Queen Boutique
Victoria Bed and Breakfast $$ GETTYSBURG: The Inn at 300 Harrisburg Ave, 17602
B&B Herr Ridge $$ Tel (717) 299-3000
102 Ocean St, 08204 B&B ∑ lancasterartshotel.com
Tel (609) 884-8702 900 Chambersburg Rd, 17325 Deluxe accommodations in the
∑ queenvictoria.com Tel (717) 334-4332 heart of downtown, with original
This restored Victorian property ∑ innatherrridge.com artwork displayed throughout.
is Cape May’s premier B&B. In the Once a Confederate hospital, The guest rooms feature modern
heart of the historic district, it is this is now a welcoming adults- comforts alongside exposed
close to the beach and the town’s only inn offering cozy, flamboy- brick and wooden beams.
attractions. The individually antly decorated rooms.
styled rooms are spacious and Conveniently located close to PHILADELPHIA: Four Points
comfortable, with a mix of the historic battlefields. by Sheraton Philadelphia
modern and antique decor. City Center $$
Relax in the parlors and porches, HERSHEY: Business
or explore the area on a The Hotel Hershey $$$ 1201 Race St, 19107
complimentary bike. Luxury Tel (215) 496-2700
100 Hotel Rd, 17033 ∑ fourpointsphiladelphia
Tel (717) 533-2171 citycenter.com
HOBOKEN: W Hoboken $$$ ∑ thehotelhershey.com The stylish, comfortable rooms
Boutique This sprawling retreat is hugely at this conveniently located hotel
225 River St, 07030 popular with families and offers offer complimentary perks, such
Tel (201) 253-2400 elegant rooms and cottages. as bottled water, Wi-Fi, and coffee.
∑ whoboken.com The lush gardens include pool Good business amenities.
A chic hotel offering stylish decor, and fountains, plus fine views of
stunning views of New York City’s the grounds and Hershey Valley. PHILADELPHIA:
skyline, a trendy cocktail bar, and Enjoy the chocolate spa. Rittenhouse 1715 $$
a luxurious spa. Luxury
1715 Rittenhouse Square St, 19103
NEWARK: Courtyard Newark DK Choice Tel (215) 546-6500
Downtown $ LANCASTER: Fulton ∑ rittenhouse1715.com
Business Steamboat Inn $$ An exclusive hotel known for
858 Broad St, 07102 Historic its impeccable service. It offers
Tel (973) 848-0070 Routes 30 and 896, 17602 a tranquil atmosphere in a
∑ marriott.com Tel (717) 299-9999 cosmopolitan location and
This modern hotel combines ∑ fultonsteamboatinn.com elegant, well-appointed rooms.
plush, spacious rooms with This charming property
friendly service. The comfortable resembles a 19th-century PHILADELPHIA: Spruce Hill
lobby and communal areas are steamboat, with nautical- Manor $$
great for working or relaxing. and Victorian-themed guest B&B
rooms, well-equipped with 3709 Baring St, 19104
PRINCETON: Inn at Glencairn $$ high-end amenities. The Tel (215) 472-2213
B&B lovely patio has a fire pit and ∑ sprucehillmanor.com
3301 Lawrenceville Rd, 08540 koi pond. Guests can enjoy This Victorian mansion
Tel (609) 497-1737 fine dining at the on-site surrounded by lush gardens is
∑ innatglencairn.com Huckleberry’s Restaurant. in a quiet residential location.
A renovated Georgian manor Excellent and friendly service. Handsome rooms have antique
set in lush grounds. Rooms come Activities for children are furnishings and kitchenettes.
with comfortable four-poster on offer.
beds and antique furnishings. PITTSBURGH: DoubleTree by
Hilton Pittsburgh Downtown $$
Business
1 Bigelow Sq, 15219
Tel (412) 281-5800
∑ doubletreepittdowntown.com
Modern, stylish hotel with
a wealth of on-site amenities,
comfortable rooms, and a
complimentary shuttle service.

PITTSBURGH: The Priory $$

Boutique
614 Pressley St, 15212
Tel (412) 231-3338
∑ thepriory.com
The Priory is a charming
European-style property that
was once home to Benedictine
monks. Plush rooms have all the
amenities. There is a cozy sitting
The Hotel Hershey, set in beautiful grounds room and a lovely courtyard.
For key to prices see page 122
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  125

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
New York City The following prices are for a three-
course meal per person, with a glass of
DOWNTOWN: Corner house wine, including tax and service.
Bistro $ $ up to $45
American Map C3 $$ $45 to $80
331 W 4th St, 10014 $$$ over $80
Tel (212) 242-9502
Some of the best burgers in the tomatoes, tasty roast pork loin,
city make this dive bar a cult and fiery jerk chicken.
favorite. Choose from the extensive
menu of local beers. MIDTOWN: Burger Joint at
Le Parker Meridien $
DOWNTOWN: Katz’s American Map E2
Delicatessen $ 119 W 57th St, 10019
Deli Map D4 Tel (212) 708-7414
205 E Houston St, 10002 Mouthwatering burgers, shakes,
Tel (212) 254-2246 and beers are served in the lobby
A New York institution, this Jewish of Le Parker Meridien hotel.
deli serves towering pastrami or Charming interiors at Blue Hill, a popular
corned-beef sandwiches and restaurant in Downtown MIDTOWN: Carnegie Deli $
other local delicacies. Vegetarians Deli Map E2
can relish the fat knishes (potato DOWNTOWN: The Spotted 854 7th Ave, 10019
and cabbage dumplings) and Pig $$ Tel 800-334-5606
matzoh ball soup. British/Italian Map C3 Huge pastrami or corned beef
314 W 11th St, 10014 sandwiches are on offer at this
DOWNTOWN: Momofuku Tel (212) 620-0393 classic New York deli. Also
Noodle Bar $ Brits will feel at home at this worth trying are the delicious
Asian Map D4 upscale pub, with an Italian twist. knishes (dumplings).
171 1st Ave, 10003 Excellent wine list and plenty of
Tel (212) 475-7899 stouts and ales. Try the five- MIDTOWN: Grand Central
Celebrated Korean-American course vegetarian platter. Oyster Bar $$
chef David Chang offers Seafood Map E3
innovative ramen and other DOWNTOWN: Veselka $$ Grand Central, Lower Level,
Japanese classics. Try the pork Ukrainian Map D4 42nd St, 10017
buns or the fried chicken, 144 Second Ave, 10003 Tel (212) 490-6650
which comes with pancakes. Tel (212) 228-9682 Sample fresh oysters at this
Delectable desserts. This diner has been an East Village seafood palace. The simple
institution since 1954 and offers preparation – a squirt of lemon or
DOWNTOWN: Otto $ fine home-made borscht, kielbasa a hand-plucked garnish – allows
Italian Map D4 sausage, and veal goulash. the delicious fresh fish and shellfish
15th Ave, 10003 to shine on their own merit.
Tel (212) 995-9559 DOWNTOWN: Blue Hill $$$
Buzzing, upscale pizzeria from American Map D4 MIDTOWN: Le Bernardin $$$
chef Mario Batali – do not miss 75 Washington Place, 10011 French Map E2
the lardo pizza. The wine list has Tel (212) 539-1776 155 W 51st St, 10019
excellent vintages from Italy. This restaurant uses the freshest Tel (212) 554-1515
seasonal ingredients sourced Chef Eric Ripert turns out French
DOWNTOWN: Shake from local farms in its dishes. masterpieces at this elegant
Shack $ The elaborate “Farmer’s Feast” five- restaurants. Creative dishes
American Map D4 course tasting menu is based on include red snapper with
SE cnr of Madison Square Park, near the week’s harvest. charred green tomatoes. Great
Madison Ave and E 23rd St, 10010 for seafood lovers.
Tel (212) 889-6600 DOWNTOWN: Eleven
Relish the juicy burgers and Madison Park $$$
crinkle-cut fries served at this American/French Map C3 DK Choice
perennially popular shack, while 11 Madison Ave, 10010 UPPER EAST SIDE: Daniel $$$
sitting under the cool shade of Tel (212) 889-0905 Closed Sun French Map E2
trees. Delicious shakes. Contemporary cuisine is 60 E 65th St, 10021
served in this Art Deco restaurant. Tel (212) 288-0033 Closed Sun
DOWNTOWN: Balthazar $$ The food is exquisite, but it comes The opulent restaurant of
French Map D4 at a price. Payment by credit card. acclaimed chef Daniel Boulud
80 Spring St, 10012 offers a superlative sensory
Tel (212) 965-1414 HARLEM: Red Rooster $$ experience, from the first step
Atmospheric bistro with large Southern American into the grand dining room and
picture windows overlooking 310 Lenox Ave, 10027 the rich forkful of foie gras to
Spring Street. Restaurateur Keith Tel (212) 792-9001 the final bite of the sinful
McNally’s crown jewel serves all Try Southern-style comfort chocolate mousse. Excellent
the French favorites – steak-frites, food at Red Rooster, including wine list and seamless service.
oysters, and Bordeaux wine. succulent steak with fried green
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 28–9
126  N E W YO R K C I T Y & T H E M I D - AT L A N T I C R E G I O N

UPPER WEST SIDE: Per Se $$$ wings. Spicy buffalo wings, LAKE PLACID: Big Mountain
American Map E2 burgers, sandwiches, and other Deli and Creperie $
10 Columbus Circle, 10019 bar favorites are on offer. American
Tel (212) 823-9335 2475 Main St, 12946
Famed chef Thomas Keller brings COOPERSTOWN: Nicoletta’s Tel (518) 523-3222
superlative Californian cuisine Italian Café $ Local diner popular for its
to New York, served as nine- Italian value meals, both breakfast
course tasting menus. Excellent 96 Main St, 13326 and lunch, including towering
selection of wines. Spectacular Tel (607) 547-7499 plates of delicious crêpes,
views of Central Park. This family-owned spot offers pancakes, and stacked deli
traditional Italian specialties such meat sandwiches.
FARTHER AFIELD: Sripraphai $ as sausage with roasted peppers
Thai and clam linguine. Reservations NIAGARA FALLS: Donatello’s
64-13 39th Ave, Queens, 11377 recommended in summer. Restaurant $
Tel (718) 899-9599 Closed Wed American
Locals swear by this hole-in- 466 3rd St, 14301
the-wall place, said to serve the DK Choice Tel (716) 282-2069 Closed Sun
best Thai in the city. There is an EAST HAMPTON: The 1770 Close to the Falls, Donatello’s is
elaborate menu dedicated to House Restaurant & Inn $$ popular for its doughy pizza,
vegetarian food – try the sautéed American hot sandwiches, and tangy
drunken noodles with tofu, 143 Main St, 11937 wings, all at reasonable prices.
vegetables, chili, and basil leaves. Tel (631) 324-1770 Closed lunch Friendly service. Great for kids.
daily
A quintessential Hamptons ROCHESTER: Nick Tahou
DK Choice dining spot, dotted with antique Hots $
FARTHER AFIELD: Peter furnishings and historical American
Luger Steak House $$$ memorabilia. The seasonal 320 W Main St, 14608
American menu has innovative dishes Tel (585) 436-0184 Closed Sun
178 Broadway, Brooklyn, 11211 that feature fresh ingredients. This local institution is home
Tel (718) 387-7400 An award-winning wine list and of the original Garbage Plate –
For over 125 years, this New York tasty dessert menu round out a combination of several diner
institution has been satisfying the experience. The downstairs favorites all on one plate. An
carnivores with massive juicy tavern offers casual pub fare. unmissable tourist destination.
slabs, from porterhouse to
prime rib and pot roast. Their
delectable steak sauce is also ITHACA: Moosewood $
sold in bottles. Vegetarian New Jersey
215 N Cayuga St, 14850
Tel (607) 273-9610
Set in a historic school building,
Moosewood has been serving DK Choice
New York State organic, vegetarian fare since ATLANTIC CITY: Atlantic City
1973. The daily-changing menu Bar and Grill $$
ALBANY: Albany Pump depends on what’s fresh. Guests Seafood
Station $$ can also purchase Moosewood’s 1219 Pacific Ave, 08401
American best-selling cookbooks. Tel (609) 348-8080
19 Quackenbush Square, 12207 This family-owned restaurant,
Tel (518) 447-9000 LAKE GEORGE: The Log Jam which began as a pizzeria,
Set in a renovated 1870s pump Restaurant $$ has long been a favorite with
station, this high-end gastropub American locals, visitors, and celebrities.
serves a range of Evans Brewing 1484 State Route 9, 12845 Steaks, crabs, shrimp cocktails,
craft beers and a broad selection Tel (518) 798-1155 lobsters, mussels, home-made
of dishes, such as burgers, fish The log cabin offers breathtaking pastas, burgers, sandwiches,
‘n’ chips, lasagne, and paella. views, while fireplaces and a pot- and pizzas are served in a
belly stove provide warmth. The friendly environment. Sports
BINGHAMTON: Number 5 $$ seafood, prime rib, and lamb memorabilia adorn the walls.
Steak House chops are all superb.
33 S Washington St, 13903
Tel (607) 723-0555
Housed in an antique-filled fire
station built in 1897, Number 5
is a great setting for an intimate
meal or a large gathering.
Traditional favorites include
seared salmon and filet mignon.

BUFFALO: Anchor Bar $

American
1047 Main St, 14209
Tel (716) 886-8920
Visitors and locals alike flock to
this old-school spot, home of the
city’s iconic namesake chicken Steak dish at Peter Luger Steak House, Brooklyn
For key to prices see page 125
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  127

CAPE MAY: Cabanas Beach

Bar & Grill $$
American
429 Beach Ave, 08204
Tel (609) 884-4800 Closed Nov–Feb:
Mon–Wed
Family-friendly oceanfront spot
serving sandwiches, seafood, and
more. Choose from oysters, shrimp,
shellfish specialties, chicken, tacos,
burgers, and prime ribs. Pool
tables, large-screen TVs, and live
music entertain.

HOBOKEN: Amanda’s $$
American
908 Washington St, 07030
Tel (201) 798-0101
Beautifully restored brownstone Colonial decor and a waitress in period costume at City Tavern, Philadelphia
with an elegant but comfortable
dining room. The sophisticated Home-made baked goods, French variety of ways, as well as
menu features roasted meats, toast, and hearty plates please all burgers, sandwiches, steaks,
seared fish, and fresh vegetables. appetites. The lunch and dinner and seafood. Do try the award-
Popular brunch spot. menu includes seafood, pasta, winning pommes frites.
hearty salads, sandwiches, steaks,
NEWARK: Hobby’s Delicatessen and home-made desserts.
& Restaurant $$ DK Choice
Deli LANCASTER: Silver Spring PHILADELPHIA:
32 Branford Pl, 07102 Family Restaurant $ City Tavern $$
Tel (973) 623-0410 Closed Sun American American
This family-owned Jewish deli 3653 Marietta Ave, 17601 138 S 2nd St, 19106
is a downtown staple serving Tel (717) 285-5974 Tel (215) 413-1443
legendary corned beef, hearty This casual, family-style rest- This unique restaurant is
soups, tender pastrami, house- aurant serves breakfast, lunch, a historically accurate recons-
made pickles, and other Eastern and dinner. The expansive truction of the original 1773
European delicacies. The friendly menu has everything from tavern. The kitchen re-creates
service and atmosphere attract salads and burgers to meatloaf 18th-century Colonial-style
a loyal clientele. and pasta with meatballs. cuisine with dishes like turkey
Friendly service keeps the pot pie and braised rabbit. Ales
TRENTON: Delorenzo's Pizza $ regulars coming back. brewed according to George
Pizzeria Washington’s and Thomas
147 Sloan Ave, 08619 LANCASTER: The Greenfield Jefferson’s original recipes are
Tel (609) 393-2952 Closed Mon Restaurant $$ also served. The Colonial decor
This family-run restaurant draws American is complemented by staff in
fans of the Trenton Tomato Pie. 595 Greenfield Rd, 17601 period costume.
The menu features thin-crust Tel (717) 393-0668
pizzas with a variety of toppings, Located in a restored 1780s stone
as well as salads and soups. farmhouse, the menu here PHILADELPHIA: Zahav $$
features classics such as lamb Middle Eastern
chops, filet mignon, and crab 237 St James Pl, 19106
cakes. Enjoy a drink in the wine Tel (215) 625-8800
Pennsylvania cellar or lounge. Live jazz weekly. An eclectic, one-of-a-kind eatery
in Society Hill offering refined
GETTYSBURG: Dobbin House PHILADELPHIA: Jim’s Steaks $ dining in a casual atmosphere.
Tavern/Alexander Dobbin American Traditional Israeli cuisine blends
Dining Rooms $$ 400 South St, 19147 with modern techniques.
American Tel (215) 928-1911 Hummus and laffa bread is an
89 Steinwehr Ave, 17325 Long lines are ever-present essential starter, though the entire
Tel (717) 334-2100 out-side this popular eatery’s adventurous menu impresses.
In a building dating from 1776, distinctive Art Deco storefront.
this intimate restaurant offers The authentic Philly cheese steaks PITTSBURGH: Primanti
historic meals in a historic setting topped with mounds of onions Brothers $
with original fireplaces. Colonial and dripping hot cheese keep the Sandwich deli
dishes include roast duck and crowds coming back for more. 46 18th St, 15222
pork tenderloin with raspberry. Tel (412) 263-2142
Reservations are recommended. PHILADELPHIA: Monk’s Café $ This 24-hour eatery is a beloved
Belgian fixture with multiple locations.
HERSHEY: Hershey Pantry $$ 264 S 16th St, 19146 Giant sandwiches satisfy,
American Tel (215) 545-7005 especially the infamous cheese
801 E Chocolate Ave, 17033 At this popular gastropub steak stuffed with meat, cheese,
Tel (717) 533-7505 Closed Sun with an incredible selection tomatoes, coleslaw, and French
Locals and visitors alike crowd of fine beers, the kitchen fries. Friendly service and a
here for the region’s best breakfast. produces mussels served a homey atmosphere.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 28–9
 NEW
ENGLAND
Introducing New England 130–137
Boston, Massachusetts 138–155
Massachusetts 156–159
Rhode Island 160–163
Connecticut 164–167
Vermont 170–173
New Hampshire 174–177
Maine 178–181
130  NEW ENGLAND

New England at a Glance

Tucked away in the northeasternmost corner of the United
States, the six states of New England are rich in history and
culture as well as in natural beauty. Many of the country’s
earliest settlements were established here, as were the first
centers of higher education. The region therefore abounds
in historic buildings, as well as in superb museums and
prestigious universities. New England’s topography includes
large tracts of farmland, dense woodlands, pristine lakes,
and sweeping coastlines, which are rocky and jagged
in some areas and serene and sandy in others. It is also
home to the rugged peaks of the White, Green, and Vermont is an enclave of
Appalachian Mountains. unspoiled wilderness. Vermont
is at its scenic best in fall, when
the Green Mountain State
changes its verdant green cloak
for a rich palette of yellow,
orange, and red.

Canterbury Shaker Village (see p176), located in New

Hampshire, was founded in 1792. This is one of the many
picturesque historic villages that are scattered around the
rolling farmlands of the state. Burlington Bretton
Woods

VERMONT
(See pp170–73)
NEW
Connecticut
is quintessential HAMPSHIRE
(See pp174–77)
New England.
Steepled churches
around immaculate
Rutland
village greens are
typical features
Concord
of its serene
landscape.
Manchester

Bennington

MASSACHUSETTS
(See pp138–59)

Springfield

Providence
RHODE
Hartford
ISLAND
(See pp160–63)
CONNECTICUT
(See pp164–67)
Block Island (see p163) in Rhode Island is one of the
New Haven
many tranquil havens situated along the pristine
shoreline of this tiny state. Great Salt Pond has three
marinas and is an excellent spot for kayaking and fishing.
Stamford

Portland Head Lighthouse in Cape Elizabeth, Fort Williams Park, Maine

 INTRODUCING NEW ENGLAND  131

Fort Kent

Presque Isle

Locator Map

MAINE Calais
(See pp178–81)

Bangor

Skowhegan
Ellsworth

Augusta
Maine has around 3,500 miles
(6,000 km) of inlets, bays, and
0 kilometers 50 harbors. Dotted along the coast
0 miles 50
are a string of lighthouses that
have guided mariners to safety
for centuries.
Portland

Boston (see pp138–55)

is New England’s largest
and most vibrant city,
Portsmouth
and the capital of
Massachusetts. Here,
historic buildings and
gleaming modern
structures can be found
Cambridge cheek by jowl.

Boston

Plymouth

Newport
Cape Cod (see p158–9) in
Massachusetts is best
known for its miles of wide,
sandy beaches, whale-
watching junkets, and
quaint Colonial villages.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 INTRODUCING NEW ENGLAND  133

NEW ENGLAND
For many people, New England is white-steepled churches, craggy coastlines,
historic villages, and timeless landscapes of tranquil farmlands and country
roads, with the sophisticated city of Boston as its cultural and commercial hub.
Many also regard it as the cradle of American civilization, for New England’s
early history is the history of the United States itself.

From the beginning, the region has been Newport, Rhode Island, the beautiful sur-
shaped by both geography and climate. burban communities of Connecticut, and
Early explorers charted its coastline, and the self-assured sophistication of Boston.
communities soon sprang up by the coast,
where goods and people could be ferried History
more easily from the Old World to the New England’s historical connections are
New. Early commerce depended heavily far richer than any other area in America,
on the ocean, from shipping and whaling for it was here that much of the drama of
to fishing and boat-building. forming a new country was played out.
The harsh, unpredictable climate, poor In 1614, the English explorer John Smith
soil, hilly terrain, and dense virgin forests sailed along the coast of Massachusetts,
also helped shape the character of its named it New England, and declared that
people. To survive in this area required it was the best place to set up a new
toughness, ingenuity, and a spirit of colony. On December 26, 1620, a group
independence – all traits that became of 102 Puritans, who had left England to
ingrained in the New England psyche. escape religious persecution, landed at
The slogan “Live free or die” on New Plymouth Rock after a grueling 66-day
Hampshire license plates is a reminder voyage on the Mayflower and established
that the same spirit lives on. Indeed, New one of America’s first permanent English
England today is as much a state of mind settlements. Soon, large settlements had
as it is a physical space. Despite this, New also grown up in Boston, Rhode Island,
England is also home to the opulence of Connecticut, New Hampshire, and Maine.

Stonington, a scenic town on Deer Isle, Penobscot Bay, Maine

A farm surrounded by fall foliage in picturesque Woodstock, Vermont
134  NEW ENGLAND

As the colonists became more prosperous American Revolution had begun, with the
and self-sufficient, their resentment of first major battle at Bunker Hill in Boston
British control and British taxes increased. on June 17, 1775. The Declaration of
The turning point came with the “Boston Independence, signed by Colonial leaders
Tea Party” in 1773, when three British ships in Philadephia on July 4, 1776, announced
arrived at Boston Harbor laden with tea. the birth of a new nation.
About 60 local leaders, disguised as In the 19th century, New
Native Americans, boarded the ships England’s maritime trade grew
and dumped 342 tea chests, worth more lucrative, as ships plied
about $1,700,000 in today’s money, between the region’s harbors
into the harbor as an act of defiance and the West Indies, Europe,
against an oppressive regime. and the Far East. The whaling
Meanwhile, locals had begun industry reached its zenith at
stockpiling arms in the countryside. this time, and cotton and wool
In 1775, when British soldiers were manufacturing also flourished.
sent to Concord to destroy these New England’s role in 19th-
caches, American patriots (known century America was not merely
as “Minutemen,” for their ability to one of economic powerhouse.
Minute Man statue in
muster at a moment’s notice) Concord It was the cultural heart of the
repelled them at Concord and nation as well. Boston was the
nearby Lexington. They had been tipped center of a strong protest against slavery.
off by a dramatic “midnight” horseback Instigated by a newspaper called The
ride from Boston by Paul Revere. The Liberator, the so-called abolitionist move-
ment set up what came to be known as
KEY DATES IN HISTORY the Underground Railroad, which provided
1614 John Smith explores the Northeast coast escape routes for fleeing slaves.
1620 The Pilgrims land at Plymouth
1630 Group of Puritans settle in Boston People & Culture
1636 Harvard, America’s first college, founded New England has continued to play an
1692 Salem witch trials begin important role in the life of the nation.
1770 British soldiers kill five in Boston Massacre It was this region that produced the first
1773 New taxes spur Boston Tea Party flowering of American culture, with
1775 Battles at Concord and Lexington mark influential 19th-century literary giants
beginning of Revolutionary War
such as Henry David Thoreau, Herman
1783 Treaty of Paris ends Revolutionary War
Melville, Nathaniel Hawthorne, and Mark
1820 Maine breaks away from Massachusetts and
becomes 20th state
Twain. All these writers won international
1831 Abolitionist William Lloyd Garrison publishes
first edition of anti-slavery newspaper
1851 Herman Melville publishes Moby Dick
1884 Mark Twain publishes The Adventures of
Huckleberry Finn
1897 Country’s first subway opens in Boston
1961 John F. Kennedy becomes president
2004 Massachusetts becomes first US state to legally
recognize gay marriage
2012 Oldest field in Major League Baseball, Fenway
Park, celebrates centenary
2013 Terrorist bombs set off at the Boston Marathon
2015 New England Patriots win their fourth Super Bowl
Harvard University’s Widener Library, the third-largest library in
the United States
 INTRODUCING NEW ENGLAND  135

The New England shoreline, great for sailing

recognition and acclaim. The literary Revolution. They have left a lasting impact
tradition still lives on in New England, on the region’s social life and politics,
led by such outstanding contemporary many of them ascending to the top of
talents as Anita Shreve, John Irving, and New England’s social hierarchy – a fact
Stephen King, who are all residents of this that became evident to the country with
region. The beauty and majesty of the the election of the Boston-born Democrat
landscape, which inspired some of John F. Kennedy (1917–63) in 1960 as the
America’s best-known creative spirits, very first Roman Catholic president of the
such as the poet Robert Frost and the US. Nevertheless, even today there is a
painters Winslow Homer and Grandma special cachet in New England’s society
Moses, still continues to exert its charm on for people known as “Boston Brahmins”
contemporary artists, such as Sabra Field popularly called WASPs (White Anglo-
and photographer Abelardo Morell. Saxon Protestants) – descendants of the
In 1636, Harvard College was founded earliest British settlers.
in Cambridge, making it the birthplace of While industrialization and urbanization
higher education in America. Today, the have left their stamp on the region, New
region’s concentration of educational England’s stunning physical beauty still
institutions, including famous Ivy remains. The craggy coastline of Maine,
League universities such as Yale and the beautiful beaches located in Cape
Brown, is a magnet for some of Cod, the picturesque Vermont villages,
America’s best and brightest. the magnificent mountains and
By the mid-19th century, New forests of New Hampshire, and the
England’s population, which had places of historic interest found across
earlier been quite homogenous, the region attract thousands of
changed dramatically as waves of Irish visitors. In recent years, the growth
immigrants arrived, driven from their of hi-tech industries in the area has
homeland by the potato famines brought a new dynamism and
in the 1840s. Immigrants from prosperity to New England.
Italy, Portugal, and Eastern This seems fitting, since it was
Europe also arrived, flocking to the area’s natural beauty
the textile mills which had that convinced the early
boomed in New England National Monument of Forefathers, settlers of New England’s
just after the Industrial Plymouth viable future.
136  NEW ENGLAND

Exploring New England

The six states of New England offer a diverse
array of attractions. Vermont is famous for
Key
its ski resorts and rolling farmland, New
Highway
Hampshire for its dense forests and spectacular
passes through the White Mountains, and Major road

Maine for its rugged coastline and vast tracts Railroad

ALLAGASH
of wilderness. Farther south, Massachusetts State border WILDERNESS
WATERWAY
is rich in history, culture, and scenic beaches, International border

Connecticut in picture-postcard villages,

and Rhode Island in opulent mansions. The
entire New England region boasts a dazzling
display of fall foliage.
Quebec

Moosehead
Lake
C A N A D A 201

Sugarloaf
Montreal Quebec

Lake Derby Line Skowhegan

0 kilometers 50 Memphremagog
0 miles 50 91

Lake VERMONT 95
Champlain Berlin
Stowe St. Johnsbury 2 Bethel
Augusta
Burlington Ben & Jerry's Littleton Bretton Woods
Ice Cream Factory 202
Shelburne Montpelier Franconia Notch 495
302
7 White
91
North Bath
Mountain Conway
Middlebury National
Randolph Forest Portland
Lake 202
Woodstock White River 93 Winnipesaukee
Rutland Junction The
Laconia Kenne-
Killington Canterbury bunks
91 NEW Shaker Village
HAM PS HI RE Ogunquit
Manchester Concord
Bellows Falls Portsmouth
7

Manchester
Green Mtn 3
93
National Forest 495
Brattleboro Lowell Gloucester
Bennington
495
Albany Salem
Greenfield
Williamstown Leominster Cambridge
Concord BOSTON
Pittsfield MASSACHUSETTS Province-
Northampton Worcester Quincy town
Logan
The
90 International Plymouth
Berkshires Sturbridge 95
Springfield 495 Cape Cod
7 44 1 Bay
84 25
91
44
Providence
CO NNECTI CUT 495
Cape
Hartford 395 Portsmouth
Cod
Litchfield
Norwich Newport
6 Connecticut Martha’s
Lake 95 South County
Candlewood River Valley Vineyard
Beaches
New Haven Block
Connecticut Island
7
95 Coast
Typical row houses in Boston’s Back Bay as Bridgeport RHODE
seen from 200 Clarendon Stamford ISLAND
New York

For keys to symbols see back flap

 INTRODUCING NEW ENGLAND  137

Mileage Chart
Fort Kent
Boston, MA
1 40 10 = Distance in miles
64 Plymouth, MA
10 = Distance in kilometers
51 54
Presque 82 87 Providence, RI
Isle
Ashland 101 134 86
163 216 Hartford, CT
138
AROOSTOOK 137 162 103 39
STATE 220 261 166 63 New Haven, CT
PARK 216 255 276 235 273 Burlington, VT
348 410 444 378 439
BAXTER 68 106 127 157 193 151
STATE 109 171 204 253 311 243 Concord, NH
PARK 107 147 156 239 208 96
203 Portland, ME
C ANAD A 172 237 251 327 384 335 154
171 211 237 264 302 151 158 73
1 275 340 381 425 486 243 254 117 Bethel, ME

95

M A I N E Calais

Campobello
Island
Machias
2 Bangor 1

Ellsworth
ATLANTIC
Acadia Bar Harbor
National OCEAN
Park

Penobscot Busy street of Cape Cod’s Provincetown in the summertime

Bay
Sights at a Glance
1 Boston pp138–55
s Shelburne Museum & Farms

Massachusetts d Burlington
f Lake Champlain
2 Salem
g Stowe
3 Lowell
h Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory
4 Concord
5 Plymouth p157 New Hampshire
6 Cape Cod
j Bretton Woods
7 Sturbridge
k Franconia Notch
8 The Berkshires
l White Mountain National Forest

Rhode Island z Lake Winnipesaukee

x Canterbury Shaker Village p176
9 Providence pp160–61
c Concord
0 Newport pp162–3
v Manchester
q South County Beaches
b Portsmouth
w Block Island
Maine
Connecticut
n Portland p178
Orleans e Hartford pp164–5
m The Kennebunks
r Litchfield
, Penobscot Bay
t Connecticut River Valley
. Acadia National Park
Nantucket y New Haven
Island / Campobello Island
u Connecticut Coast
! Sugarloaf
Vermont @ Bethel

i Green Mountain National Forest

o Manchester
p Killington
a Woodstock
138  NEW ENGLAND

1 Boston
Boston is located on the northeastern Atlantic
Coast on Massachusetts Bay. Founded in the
early 17th century around a large natural harbor
at the mouth of the Charles River, the capital of
Massachusetts today covers an area of 49 sq miles
(127 sq km) and has a population of 630,000. It is
a major center of American history, culture, and
learning. The central city is focused around the
harbor on the Shawmut Peninsula, while Greater Massachusetts State House with its gilded dome,
designed by Charles Bulfinch
Boston encompasses the surrounding area.

Sights at a Glance
1 Beacon Hill pp140–41 s Copley Square
Science ParkPark
Science

2 Black Heritage Trail d Newbury Street MA M

RT ART
HA HA
ROA ROA
3 Boston Common & Public f Commonwealth Avenue
D D

S TR T
T
Garden

EE
EE
Ri er
r

S TR
ve
4 Boston Athenaeum Greater Boston v
WW
E SETS T
Ri

5 The Freedom Trail pp142–3 (see inset map) BLO BLO

SSO SSO EN
ED ND

S
S
CHARLESBANK M M
g John F. Kennedy Library
CHARLESBANK
6 Massachusetts State House

RL E
RL E
PARKPARK
Charles
Charles

Massachusetts
Massachusetts
pp144–5 & Museum
CHA
CHA
General Hospital
General Hospital

STREET

STREET
7 Park Street Church h Isabella Stewart

NORTH GROVE ST

NORTH GROVE ST
8 Downtown Crossing Gardner Museum Old West
Old West
Church
Church
9 Theater District j Museum of Fine Arts Charles/
Charles/ Harrison
Harrison
M.G.H.
M.G.H. GrayGray
Otis Otis
0 Chinatown k Cambridge C A MCBARM ST
R EI D G
I DBG E ST
House
House

H A N C O C K STR

H A N C O C K STR
q Post Office Square l Charlestown

JOY ST
G A R DEN ST R E E T

JOY ST
GIRVING
GRO VE

GRO VE

IRVING STREET
A R DEN ST R E E T
C H AR L ES
C H AR L ESWEST

w Old South Meeting House HSILL IPS

PHILLPIP
STREEST REET
D
D

STREET

e King’s Chapel & Burying African

ROA

African
ROA

ST

ST

REVERSETREEST REET

E ET
REVER Meeting

E ET
Meeting
Ground
WES

MYRTLE
MYRTLE ST ST HouseHouse
B EBA
EPIC
AO CN O NSTH
REESI
THLTLL L
REEI
NT

T
NT

r Old State House p147 INECYKNEY

NCKPN
Nichols
Nichols
KME
KME

Charles St St
Charles House
House
C ED S T R E

t Faneuil Hall Marketplace

C ED

Meeting
Meeting ST TMuseum
Museum
R N O NN O N S
AR

AR

M T MVTE V E R
STR

WA L N

House
WA L N

House
y Copp’s Hill Burying Ground
BAN
BAN

EET ET
STR STRE
ST

ST
RIV

RIVE T
E

u Old North Church UT T

UT

UT

S TN TN U
ER

E T R E ET
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EM
EM

CHE CHES Hepzibah Hepzibah

ST

ST
S

ST Swan
ST

ST Swan
Houses
Houses
i Paul Revere Mall NCH NCH
TRE

ST T ST BRA BRA
UT
TH E TH E STN STNU
ET

CHE CHE N N
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ESPLA E ADE CO CO
o Paul Revere House ST ST
ON ON
BYR BYR
B E AB E A
Frog Frog
CH

p Waterfront E E S
CH

PondPond
I V IGibson
V Gibson Ca
D R D R House
AR
AR

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a Trinity Church p150 ARL I A L
R IO MuseumMuseum B OBSOT SOTNO N
O
EM
LE

EM
LE
BE

BE

M M C OCMOMMO MNO N
OW W
S

RR RRO
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RK

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CLA
CLA

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ELE

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S ES J
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ST

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ING
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UG H UG H
REN

J A MJ A M
DA

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RLB RLBO
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MA MA
TON

TON
RT

RT

ON
DO
DO

ET
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EX

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EN ENU
MO

MO

T R EM

T R EM

AV AV UE
Boylston
Boylston
N
ETE

N
ETE

PARK PARK
ST

E
ST

EN ENU SQUARE Colonial

SQUARE Colonial
UT

UT

H H AV AV Theater
Theater
T
R

T
R

A LE A L ET
RETREE
T
ST
H

ST
H

E Arlington
Arlington Cutler
STR

W W T Cutler
STR

S S
ON ON TH TH
ST

ST

M MM M L AL RY RY Massachusetts StateState
Massachusetts Majestic
Majestic
CO CO NWEA W E First
BU BU Theater
EET

E WN E W Theater
EET

N N Transportation
Transportation
M MMOMO First ST ST Building
Building
Baptist Church O N O N E T T PARKPARK
E

Baptist Church
E

CO CO
AV

AV

S T T S T R E S T R E E PLAZA
YL YLS PLAZA
S

T T
S

B O B O ID E N CIDEE N C E AVENAUVEENUE T S S
EX

BU
EX

BU

AR ART
M

V
STR

V
STR

P R O P R O A MES MES
S T US T U
ETE

LU
ETE

LU

J JA Jacob
Jacob
CO
CLA

CO
CLA

ST. ST.
BER

BER
EE

EE

Wirth's
Wirth's
R

ARL

ARL
T

REN
T

REN

KEL

KEL

Shubert
Shubert
STR

STR

IN G

IN G

Theater
Theater
EY

EY
DO

200 200
Clarendon
DO

Clarendon
EET

EET

TON

TON
STR

STR
N S
N S

ST ST
EET

EET

T T
ST

N
T

ST

N
T

MASM
SAACSHUC
SA SEHTUTSSETTS
EM

EM

TURN
TPUIRKN
EPIKE
TR

TR

For keys to symbols see back flap

 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS  139

Greater Boston Chelsea Salem

Chelsea Salem
1A 1A
28 28 1A 1A
Winthrop
Winthrop

Cambridge
Cambridge Logan
Logan
Boston Airport
Boston Airport
90 90
Starbridge
Starbridge Massachusetts
Massachusetts
0 meters 250 Bay Bay
9 9 93 93
Worcester
Worcester 0 km 5
0 yards 250 28 28
203 203 0 miles 5
Brookline
Brookline

Key
Charlestown
Charlestown
Bridge NORTH END END
NORTH
Bridge
PLAYGROUND
PLAYGROUND Area of main map
C IARLC ISATL S T
NewNew
Charles
Charles ER CHE CH R E R E
ET ET
RiverRiver
DamDam AR A Highway
M

R TE TE
M

R R
H H ST
O

RE STRE Major road

O

C C ULL UL
ST

ST

L ET ET Battery
Battery
KEANYKEANY C C WharfWharf
PR

PR

Other road
S N O W H I LL

ST
S N O W H I LL

SQUARE
SQUARE S
RE TRE
IN

IN

ET ET
CE

CE

M
ME
W A S H IN G T O N S T

ME
WN A
E

ST
ESN

ST
Railway
S

RY RY
TD

TI BATTE
BATTE Lincoln
D IS H I N G T O N

T Lincoln
North
North
RCI

RCI

LE ILE
IC

N
ET E
CO

T NS HANO Wharf
Wharf
Station
Station BE TBO S T O HANO
O

RE RE
A L ST

VE
A L ST

VE
AVE ARVE R
TT

TT

E
ST ST N
N NN N
ET
AY AY T
ES T
T
ST Union
Union
W EW
NO
NROTRHT H
STREET

REET

Wharf
STREET

REET

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US US
C A RI E

CA
FR PO AND

L YSNTN S T
F

CA CA
LY N N S T
STREET
NA ND

STREET

ENED
NA RE EE

ND
IE R

F LE F L
Sargents
Sargents
SUTRT

URT

ET E ET
PO

ND TL

ST
ST S TR

ST

ST ST Wharf
Wharf
RT

N CO

O
RE

AT L AN T IC AV E NUE

AT L AN T IC AV E NUE
EN C
ST ND
L

ET T

ET
RE S

TH

TH
ARDE

ME ME
GARD

RRI RRI
ET T

MA MA
ST

H M ST

NO
R
ST

NO
ER

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C SC S
G
EM

OV

OV

TRE TRE
T

Lewis
Lewis
RI

ET ET
T
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STANIFORD STREE

ET
BL
STANIFORD STREE

BL

AN

AN
SAL

ERT EE
SAL

CH

CH

Wharf
RE

Wharf
ET
H
AC

A C TO N O N

RSET

ST

N N
RE
O

D
KS

D
KS

Haymarket
Haymarket
T

LST

ST
S

ST
L
TO

CIA

CIA

ST ST
WW A TAETRE R
NE

Y Y
ER
ON

ER
MN

UR UR
E
CO

MLTO
C

DB DB
M
S

ST

LT

Bowdoin
Bowdoin
TR

SU SU
F RFO
RN O TN T
FU
NG

FU
RE

CO

CO
EE
GR

W
ET

W
NE NEJ.F.KJ.F.K
RES

Federal
Federal
ESS

CHRISTOPHER
CHRISTOPHER
CA C Office Building
Office Building Holocaust
S ST

M AM
Holocaust COLUMBUS
COLUMBUS
T

M P L E S T R EE T

Memorial
T

Memorial PARKPARK
STRE
T E M P L E S T R EE

S TREE

S TREE

NewNew
City City
B

LongLong
B

REE T
RI

RI
B OW D O I N S T R E E T

B OW D O I N S T R E E T

Hall Hall Wharf

AT

Wharf
AT
DG

DG

ET

PE PE
Aquarium
LA

Aquarium
E

LA

Center Government
E

Court
Court Center Government
MB

MB

Plaza CenterCenter Faneuil

Faneuil
NT

Houses
NT

Houses Plaza
ERTON S

ERTON S
TE

COU RCTOSUTR T S T Hall Hall

STR

STR

IC

IC
SOMERSET

SOMERSET

State Central
Central
State T R E E T R E E T Custom
Custom
IND

IND

S ST Wharf
Wharf
EE

EE

S TATSETAT E House
House
Q
NewNew
England
Q
England
IA

IA
T

AV E N U
T

AV E N U

Old City
Old City ST ST Aquarium
Aquarium
Hall Hall
ET ET
RE RE SCH SCH
Old Corner
Old Corner
Bookstore
Bookstore
F IFNI A
NNACNB ICAI LA L
B
E

ST ST
D IDSITSRTIRRCOIATRDCO ATD
O OL OOL
ST ST
ST ST
ST

ST

BR B
OM RO Trinity Church reflected in the
O

FIE MFI
LI

POST OFFICE
LI

POST OFFICE
VE

VE

SQUARE
ParkPark LD ELD SQUARE
ET ET
200 Clarendon
DEVONSHIRE

Rowes
R
DEVONSHIRE

Rowes
R

Street ST ST RE RE
FEDERAL

Street
FEDERAL

ST ST Wharf
Wharf
S TREET

S TREET

St. Paul's
St. Paul's
athedral
Cathedral
ST

ST
RE
CH

RE
CH

LIN IN
S S F RK A N K L
FR AN
ET

NO NO
ET

Brattle
Brattle
AR

PE
AR

PE

W W
STREET

STREET

AR

BookBook
AR
CO

CO GR

PL PL
Downtown
L

Downtown
L

ShopShop
N

N ESS

ST
E

ST
E

Crossing
Crossing Key
ST

STR NSHIR
ST

STR NSHIR

Opera
Opera SU SU
RE

M M
DEV T
EET

ET

ET

House
EE

House
O

RE
SS TR

M M RE
ET

DEV
ET

Sight/Place of interest
NC ST

RE T

ER ST ST
ER
S
RE

ET
RE

ET
Y

Y
T

ST ST
ST ET

GH H
RE
ST

NC
ON

ST

BE BE R R HI HIG
ST

ST

Expressway
RE

D FORDDFOSRTD ST E ET E ET
AU

AU

E
M

ET

Chinatown
CH

Chinatown
CH

Pedestrian street
N

ET
N
ON

E S S EEXS SSETXR ES T R EE T
ON

KINGS TO

KINGS TO
HINGT

HINGT

c
r
B E ACBHE ACH
WAS

WAS

ST ST

S T U AS T U
RT A S TRRTES T R
E T EE T
UE

UE
EN

EN

Getting Around
AV

AV

Public transportation in Boston and Cambridge is very good.

N

In fact, it is considerably easier to get around by public

ISO

ISO

transportation than by driving. All major attractions in the city

RR

RR

are accessible on its modern subway network, the T, or by bus

HA

HA

or taxi. The historic central sections of the city are also

extremely easy to navigate on foot.
140  NEW ENGLAND

1 Beacon Hill
The south slope of Beacon Hill was, from the 1790s to the
1870s, Boston’s most sought-after neighborhood, until its
wealthy elite decamped to the more exclusive Back Bay.
Many of the district’s houses were designed by the influential
architect Charles Bulfinch (1763–1844) and his disciples, and
the south slope evolved as a textbook example of Federal
architecture. The finest houses are either on Boston Common Beacon Street
or perched on top of the hill, offering fine views. Though The fine Federal-style mansions
the earlier houses were set well back from the street, the here, some with ornate reliefs,
overlook the beautiful green
economic depression of 1807–12
expanse of Boston Common.
resulted in row houses being built
right out to the street.

STREET
PINCKNEY
LOUIS

Louisburg Square
BURG

The crowning
glory of the
SQUAR

Beacon Hill
district, this square
was developed in
E

the 1830s. Today, EET

it is still Boston’s STR
NON
VER
most desirable
MO UNT
address.
CE

Charles Street
DA

Meeting House
CH

R S

was built in the

AR

T
RE

early 19th century

L E

ET

to house a
S

TR EET
ST

congregation
NU T S
SPR

EST
RE

of Baptists. CH
ET

UC

Mount Vernon Street,

E S

with its gracious mansions,

TRE

was described by novelist

ET

Henry James in the 1890s

as “the most civilized street EET
STR
in America.” CON
BEA

Back Bay
and South
End
Key
Suggested route

0 meters 50

0 yards 50
. Charles Street
This elegant street is lined with antique
stores, fine restaurants, and gourmet
groceries. At its top end are two groups
of striking Greek-Revival row houses.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS  141

2 Black Heritage depicting the first free black

Trail regiment during the Civil War,
and their white colonel, Robert
Map C3. 8 tours by National Park Gould Shaw. In the south-
Service Rangers, (617) 742-5415. eastern corner is the Central
∑ nps.gov/boaf
Burying Ground, dating from
1756, with graves of British and
In the first US census in 1790, American casualties from the
Massachusetts was the only historic Battle of Bunker Hill in
state to record no slaves. During 1775 (see p155).
the 1800s, Boston’s large free Southwest of the Common is
African-American community the more formal 24-acre (10-ha)
. Nichols House Museum lived principally on the north Public Garden, designed in
This small museum offers an slope of Beacon Hill and in the English style in 1869. Amid its
insight into the life and times of adjacent West End. Free walking beautifully tended lawns and
Beacon Hill resident Rose Nichols, tours of the Black Heritage Trail are flowerbeds is a superb bronze
who lived here from 1885 to 1960. led by the National Park Service equestrian statue of George
Rangers from spring to fall, depart- Washington. A path leads from
ing from the Robert Gould Shaw the statue to a serene lagoon,
Memorial on Boston Common. spanned by the miniature,
The sights include safe houses for ornamental Lagoon Bridge.
escaped slaves, and the Museum Visitors can explore the lagoon
of African American History, on the delightful Swan Boats.
which traces Boston’s black history
and preserves the African Meeting
House, the country’s oldest black
church. Dedicated in 1806, the
building’s restored interior once
rang with the passionate oratory
of abolitionists. The site also
includes the Abiel Smith School,
the first school built solely for
African-American children.
WA

P Museum of African
LNU

American History
46 Joy St. Tel (617) 720-2991.
T S

Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat.

TRE

Closed public hols. & 8 Bronze statue of George Washington in the

∑ afroammuseum.org Public Garden
T E

3 Boston Common 4 Boston

Massachusetts
State House & Public Garden Athenaeum
Map C4.  Park St, Boylston St, Map D3. 10½ Beacon St. Tel (617) 227-
Arlington. Open 24 hrs. Visitor Center: 0270.  Park St. Open 9am–8pm
139 Tremont St, (617) 426-3115. Mon–Wed, 9am–5:30pm Thu–Fri,
Open 8:30am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–4pm Sat. 8 ∑ boston
9am–5pm Sat & Sun (times vary in athenaeum.org
winter). ∑ bostonusa.com
Housed in an elegant Palladian-
The city’s most beautiful green style building, this library’s
space, Boston Common was treasures include George
established in 1634. For two Washington’s personal library
centuries it served as a common and the theological library
pasture, gallows site, and a given by King William III of
military camp and drill ground. England to the King’s Chapel
By the 19th century, it had (see p146). The Athenaeum’s
become a center for open-air collection, first organized in
Hepzibah Swan Houses civic activity and remains so to 1807, originally included many
Charles Bulfinch designed these this day. At the northeastern fine paintings. These were later
three elegant houses for the edge of the Common is the donated to the Museum of
daughters of a wealthy Beacon Robert Gould Shaw Memorial, Fine Arts (see pp152–3) when
Hill proprietress. with a magnificent relief that was set up.
142  NEW ENGLAND

5 The Freedom Trail

Boston has more sites directly related to the American
Revolution than any other city. The most important of these
sites, as well as some associated with the city’s history, have
been linked together as “The Freedom Trail.” This 2.5-mile
(4-km) walking route, marked in red on the sidewalks, starts
at Boston Common, weaves through the central city and
Old Boston, and ends at Bunker Hill in Charlestown.

Central City Paul Revere. Continuing along

The Freedom Trail starts at the Tremont Street you will come
Visitor Information Center on to King’s Chapel and Burying Faneuil Hall, popularly known as the
Boston Common 1 (see p141). Ground 5 (see p146). The tiny “Cradle of Liberty ”
This is where angry colonials cemetery is Boston’s oldest,
rallied against their British while King’s Chapel was the (see p147) presides over the
masters and where the British principal Anglican church in head of State Street. The
forces were encamped during Puritan Boston. The box pew Colonial government building,
the 1775–76 military occupation. on the right, just inside the it also served as the first state
Political speakers still expound front entrance, was reserved legislature, and the merchants’
from their soapboxes here. for condemned prisoners exchange in the basement was
Walking toward the northwest to hear their last sermons where Boston’s Colonial
before going to the gallows shipping fortunes were made.
on Boston Common. The square in front of the Old
State House is the Boston
Heart of Old Boston Massacre Site 0, where British
1 2 Head back along soldiers opened fire on a
BE Tremont Street and taunting mob in 1770, killing
BOSTON A
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turn down School five. Follow State Street down to
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provides a Street, where a hopscotch-like primarily as Boston’s first central
wonderful mosaic embedded in the side- marketplace, it was also known
Steeple of Park view of the walk marks the site of the First as “Cradle of Liberty.” The red
Street Church Massachusetts Public School 6, established in stripe of the Freedom Trail
State House 2 1635. At the bottom of the points the way to the North End
(see pp144–5), located on Beacon street is the former Old Corner and the Paul Revere House w.
Street. It was built as the new Bookstore 7, a landmark which This is Boston’s oldest house,
center of state governance is more associated with Boston’s home to the man known for his
after the Revolution. Along Park literary flowering than with the “midnight ride” (see p148).
Street, at the end of the Common, Revolution. To its south on
is Park Street Church 3 (see Washington Street is the Old The North End
p145), built in 1810 and a South Meeting House 8 (see Following the Freedom Trail
bulwark of the anti-slavery p146), a graceful, white-spired through the North End, allow
movement. Adjacent to it, the brick church, modeled on Sir time to try some of the Italian
Old Granary Burying Ground 4 Christopher Wren’s English cafés and bakeries along
is the final resting place of country churches. A few blocks Hanover Street. Cross through
patriots John Hancock and along, the Old State House 9 the Paul Revere Mall to reach
For keys to symbols see back flap
 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS  143

Old North Church e (see p148), Charlestown Key

whose spire is instantly visible Cross the iron bridge over the Walk route
over the shoulder of the Charles River, which links the
equestrian statue of Paul Revere. North End in Boston with City
In 1775, two lanterns hung in Square in Charlestown, and turn
the belfry signaled the advance right, following

WESLEY HIGH ST
of British troops on Lexington
PLEA SAN T STRE ET
and Concord. The crest of Copp’s y

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Hill lies close by on Hull Street. MON UMEN T STRE ET

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Some of Boston’s earliest gallows M AIN S
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were here, and people would EE

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gather below to watch the

ST
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PA R K STREET
hangings of heretics and pirates.

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Much of the hilltop is covered T
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by Copp’s Hill Burying LSE
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1660 (see p148). TIT
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HUL L STR EET

SN COPP'S HILL
fire. The granite obelisk that
ST

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ET

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r
SH EA FE

towers above the Charlestown

STRE

STREET

waterfront is Bunker Hill

AVENUE

SALEM ST the Freedom Trail along Monument y (see p155). This

e
CE

Water Street to the Charles- landmark commemorates the

T ST
P R IN

town Navy Yard t. Berthed battle of June 17, 1775, which

TE
NET

AR
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BEN

in Dry Dock 1 for restoration ended with a costly victory for

CH

ANT IC
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work is USS Constitution (see British forces. As a monument

NOR

ET
T IL E

TRE p155). In the War of 1812, she to the first large-scale battle of
ER S
HAN OV
ATL

w earned the nickname “Old the Revolution, the obelisk, based

FLEET STREET

on those of ancient Egypt, remains

Walk a prototype for others across
T RE
ET the US.
T H S 1 Boston Common
N OR
2 Massachusetts State House
3 Park Street Church
4 Old Granary Burying Ground
5 King’s Chapel & Burying Ground
Tips for Walkers 6 First Public School
7 Old Corner Bookstore
Map C4. Starting point: Boston
8 Old South Meeting House
Common Visitor Center. Free Park
Ranger tours leave from Faneuil 9 Old State House
Hall. Length: 2.5 miles (4 km). 0 Boston Massacre Site
Getting there: Park Street Station q Faneuil Hall
( Green and Red lines) to start. w Paul Revere House
State (Orange and Blue lines) and e Old North Church
Haymarket (Orange and Green r Copp’s Hill Burying Ground
lines).  stations can be found
t Charlestown Navy Yard & the
on route. Visitors should follow red
USS Constitution Bunker Hill Monument as seen from
stripe on sidewalk for the full route.
y Bunker Hill Monument Charlestown harbor
144  NEW ENGLAND

6 Massachusetts State House

The cornerstone of the Massachusetts State House
was laid in 1795 by Paul Revere and Samuel
Adams. Completed in 1798, the Charles Bulfinch-
designed center of state government served as a
model for the US Capitol building in Washington
and as an inspiration for many other state capitols.
Later additions were made, but the original building
. Nurses Hall
remains the archetype of American government The statue of the army nurse here was
buildings. Its gilded dome serves as the zero-mile erected in honor of all the nurses who took
marker for Massachusetts. part in the Civil War. The marble hall is lined
with murals depicting important events
leading up to the American Revolution.

Main Staircase
Beautiful stained-glass
windows, with the
early state seals of
Massachusetts, decorate
the main staircase.

Entrance

KEY

1 Senate Chamber
2 The dome was gilded in 23-carat
gold in 1872.
3 Hall of Flags
4 The Great Hall, built in 1990,
is used for state functions and is
topped by a glass dome.
5 The Wings, added in 1917,
. House of Representatives are thought by many to sit
This elegant oval chamber was built in 1895, but the incongruously with the rest of
“Sacred Cod” that now hangs over the gallery came the structure.
to the State House when it first opened in 1798.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS  145

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 7 Park Street 9 Theater District

Map D3. Beacon Hill. Church Map C4.  Boylston, Tufts
Tel (617) 727-3676. Medical Center.
Map D4. 1 Park St. Tel (617) 523-3383.
Open 10am–3:30pm Mon–Fri.  Park St. Open Jul–Aug: 9am–4pm
Booking advised. 7 8 Boston’s first theater opened
Tue–Fri, 9am–3pm Sat; Sep–Jun: call in 1793 on Federal Street.
∑ sec.state.ma.us/trs
for hours. 7 ∑ parkstreet.org
Fifty years later, with patron-
Transport
age from the city’s elite,
 Park St.
Since its dedication in 1810, Boston had become a major
the Park Street Church has tryout town and boasted
been one of Boston’s most several lavish theaters. Many
influential pulpits. In 1829, major US premieres were
the firebrand crusader for the held here, among them
abolition of slavery, William Handel’s Messiah, and Tennessee
Lloyd Garrison, gave his first Williams’ A Streetcar Named
abolition speech here; and in Desire. Among the grandest
1893 the anthem “America the theaters are the opulent
Beautiful” debuted at Sunday Emerson Majestic Theater,
service in this church. The decorated with frescoes and
Senate Chamber
church, with its 217-ft (65-m) friezes; the 1,650-seat Shubert
Situated directly beneath
the dome, this chamber steeple was designed by the Theater, with its imposing
features a beautiful English architect Peter Banner, Neo-Classical façade; and the
sunburst ceiling. who actually adapted a design Wang Theater, with a glittering
by the earlier English architect, seven-story auditorium.
Christopher Wren.
Adjacent to the church, on P Wang Theater
Tremont Street, is the mid- 230 Tremont St. Tel (617) 482-9393.
17th-century Old Granary Open phone to check. 7
Burying Ground, which was ∑ citicenter.org
once the site of a grain storage
facility. Among those buried in
this historic cemetery are three 0 Chinatown
important signatories to the
Map D5. Bounded by Kingston,
Declaration of Independence – Kneeland, Washington, & Essex Sts.
Samuel Adams, John Hancock,  Chinatown.
and Robert Treat Paine – as
well as one of the city’s most This is the third largest
famous sons, Paul Revere. Chinatown in the US, after
those in San Francisco and
Z Old Granary Burying New York. Pagoda-topped
Ground telephone booths set the
Tremont St. Open 9am–5pm daily. tone of the neighborhood,
which is full of restaurants,
and stores selling garments
8 Downtown and Chinese medicine. Boston’s
Crossing Chinese colony was fully
established by the turn of the
Map D4. Washington, Winter, & 19th century, and the area’s
Summer Sts.  Downtown Crossing. population has since swelled
with new arrivals from Korea,
This pedestrian shopping district Vietnam, and Cambodia.
features sidewalk vendors and
food carts. The major depart-
ment store is Macy’s, part of a
nationwide chain. Farther
down Washington Street is
Boston’s jewelry district, while
Hall of Flags more unique shops can be
Flags carried into battle by found on the side streets.
regiments from the state of The Brattle Book Shop, for
Massachusetts are displayed example, was founded in
here beneath a stained-glass 1825 and stocks more than
skylight, depicting seals of the 250,000 rare, used, and out-of- Typical store and building façades in
original 13 colonies. print books and magazines. Boston’s Chinatown
146  NEW ENGLAND

e King’s Chapel &

Burying Ground
Map D3. 58 Tremont St. Tel (617) 227-
2155.  Park St, State, Government
Center. Open late May–mid-Sep:
10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1:30–5pm Sun;
mid-Sep–late May: call for hours.
Music recitals: 12:15pm Tue.
∑ kings-chapel.org

The first chapel on this site

was built in 1689, but when
the Governor of New England
decided that a larger church
was needed, the present
Sculptural fountain in Boston’s Post Office Square granite edifice was begun in
1749. It was constructed
q Post Office Square crowds, led by a group of around the original wooden
merchants called “the Sons of chapel, which was then
Map E4. Cnr of Congress and Milk Sts.
 State, Downtown. -
Liberty” to gather in protest dismantled and heaved out of
against British taxation and the the windows of its replace-
Enclosed on the west side by hated Stamp Act. During a ment. High ceilings and open
the impressive Art Deco former protest rally on December 16, arches enhance the sense of
post office building, Post Office 1773, the fiery speechmaker spaciousness and light inside
Square is the nerve center of Samuel Adams flashed the the chapel. Its other notable
Boston’s financial district. The signal that led to the Boston Tea features include a pulpit
east side of the square faces Party (see p149) at Griffin’s shaped like a wine glass,
the Renaissance-style former Wharf several hours later. which dates back to
Federal Reserve Bank, now The British retaliated by 1717, and a huge
the Langham Boston Hotel turning Old South into bell that was recast
(see p184). The graceful 1947 an officers’ tavern and by the foundry of
Art Moderne structure on the a stable for army Revolutionary hero
south side was headquarters horses. Today, the Paul Revere (see p148).
for the New England Telephone Meeting House holds The adjacent
Company, and the laboratory lectures and exhibitions, cemetery, Boston’s
of telephone pioneer Alexander and has a multimedia oldest, contains the
Graham Bell was located on show, which relives the Alexander graves of 12-time
nearby Court Street. A public events. The shop sells Graham Bell Colonial governor
park provides an oasis of green “Boston Tea Party” tea and John Winthrop, and
among the high-rise buildings books on the history of Boston Mary Chilton, the first woman
of the city. Local workers and and New England. to step off the Mayflower.
tourists are able to relax on
the lawns to the sound of
water in the sculptural fountain,
and in summer a kiosk sells
luncheon fare.

w Old South
Meeting House
Map D4. 310 Washington St.
Tel (617) 482-6439.  Park St, State,
Government Center. Open Apr–Oct:
9:30am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar:
10am–4pm daily. & 7
∑ oldsouthmeetinghouse.org

Built for Puritan religious

services in 1729, this edifice,
with a tall octagonal steeple,
had Colonial Boston’s biggest
capacity for town meetings.
From 1765 on, it became the
venue for large and vociferous The simply decorated interior of King’s Chapel on Tremont Street
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS  147

r Old State House between 1713 and 1776. The

royal lion and unicorn still
Map D3. Washington & State Sts.
Tel (617) 720-1713.  State.
decorate the eastern façade.
Open 9am–5pm daily (until 6pm After independence, the
Jun–Aug). & 7 = Massachusetts legislature took
∑ bostonhistory.org possession of the building, and
it has had many uses since,
Now dwarfed by the towers including a produce market,
of the Financial District, the Old Masonic Lodge, and Boston City
State House was the seat of the Hall. Its wine cellars now
British Colonial government function as a subway station.
In 1776, the Declaration
of Independence was read from
the balcony on the East Façade.
A circle of cobblestones below
the balcony marks the site of
the Boston Massacre. On Greek-Revival Custom House tower, one of
March 5, 1770, British Boston’s most striking sights
guardsmen opened fire on
taunting Colonists, killing five. t Faneuil Hall
After the Boston Tea Party, Marketplace
this was one of the most
inflammatory events leading up Map E3. Between Chatham &
Clinton Sts. Tel (617) 523-1300.
to the American Revolution
 Haymarket, State.
(see p54). Inside, exhibits include
Open 10am–9pm Mon–Sat, noon–
a multimedia presentation
6pm Sun. 7 ∑ faneuilhall
about the Boston Massacre and marketplace.com
the restored Royal Council
Old State House amid the skyscrapers of Chamber, where visitors can sit This immensely popular
the Financial District in the Royal Governor’s chair. shopping and dining complex
attracts nearly 14 million people
The tower is a classic example The Central Staircase, with every year. It was developed
of Colonial style. its two spiraling wooden from the old buildings of the
handrails, is a fine example of city’s meat, fish, and produce
18th-century workmanship. markets, which were beautifully
A gilded eagle,
restored in the 1970s. The
symbol of America, is
on the west façade. 535-ft- (163-m-) long Greek-
Revival-style Faneuil hall is now
filled with fast-food stands and
tables beneath the spectacular
The East Façade still has
the royal British lion and
central rotunda. Completing the
unicorn symbol on each ensemble are the twin North
corner. It is adorned with a and South Market buildings,
beautiful clock dating to refurbished to house boutiques,
the 1820s. restaurants, and business offices.
A short distance southeast of
Faneuil Hall Marketplace is the
Custom House with its Greek-
Revival tower. The 495-ft (150m)
tower with a four-sided clock
was built in 1915 and for much
of the 20th century was Boston’s
only skyscraper until it was
exceeded by the Prudential
Tower. There is a display of local
history in the rotunda. Call for
the schedule of tours of the
Entrance tower, which offer spectacular
Keayne Hall city and harbor views.
displays exhibits
that depict events The P Custom House
from the American Declaration of 3 McKinley Square. Tel (617) 310-6300.
Revolution. Independence was
read from this Council Tower: & ∑ marriott.com/
balcony in 1776. Chamber vacationclub
148  NEW ENGLAND

twin rows of linden trees give

the space, much used by local
people, a distinctly European
feel. South of the Mall is busy
Hanover Street, which is lined
with Italian eateries.

o Paul Revere
House
Map E2. 19 N Square. Tel (617) 523-
2338.  Haymarket, Aquarium.
Open mid-Apr–Oct: 9:30am–5:15pm
daily; Nov–mid-Apr: 9:30am–4:15pm
daily. Closed Jan–Mar: Mon. & 7
∑ paulreverehouse.org
Slate tombstones of Boston’s early settlers, Copp’s Hill Burying Ground
Boston’s oldest surviving
is Boston’s oldest surviving clapboard frame house is
y Copp’s Hill religious edifice. It is built of historically significant, for it was
Burying Ground brick in the Georgian style, here in 1775 that Paul Revere
Map E2. Entrances at Charter & Hull similar to that of St. Andrew’s- began his legendary horseback
Sts. Tel (617) 635-4505.  N Station. by-the-Wardrobe in Blackfriars, ride to warn his compatriots in
Open 9am–5pm daily. London, designed by Sir Lexington (see p155) of the
Christopher Wren. The church impending arrival of British
Existing since 1659, this is was made famous on April 18, troops. This historic event was
Boston’s second-oldest cemetery, 1775, when sexton Robert later immortalized by Henry
after the one by King’s Chapel Newman, aiding Paul Revere, Wadsworth Longfellow
(see p146). Among those buried hung a pair of lanterns in the (see p154) in his epic poem
here are Robert Newman, the belfry. These were to warn the which begins, “Listen, my
sexton who hung Paul Revere’s patriots in Charlestown of the children, and you shall hear of
signal lanterns in the belfry of westward departure of British the midnight ride of Paul Revere.”
the Old North Church, influential troops, on their way to engage A versatile gold- and
Colonial period Puritan ministers, the revolutionaries. silversmith, and maker of church
as well as hundreds of black An imposing marble bust of bells and cannons, Revere lived
slaves and freedmen. George Washington, dating here from 1770 to 1800. Small
During the British occupation from 1815, adorns the church leaded casement windows, an
of Boston, King George lll’s troops interior, which has unusual overhanging upper story, and
were said to have used the slate high-sided box pews. These nail-studded front door make
headstones for target practice, and were designed to enclose the house a fine example of
pockmarks from their musket balls footwarmers, which were filled 18th-century Early American
are still visible. Copp’s Hill Terrace, with hot coals or bricks during architecture. Two rooms in the
directly across Charter Street, is the wintry weather. The tower house contain artifacts and
site where, in 1919, a 2.3-million- contains the first set of church furniture from the Revere family.
gallon tank of molasses exploded, bells made in North America, In the courtyard is a large
drowning 21 people in a huge, cast in 1745. One of the first bronze bell cast by Revere, who
syrupy tidal wave. bellringers was a teenage is known to have made nearly
Paul Revere. 200 church bells.

uOld North i Paul Revere Mall

Church
Map E2. Hanover St.  Haymarket,
Map E2. 193 Salem St. Tel (617) 858- Aquarium. 7
8231.  Haymarket, Aquarium,
N Station. Open Mar–May & Nov–Dec: This brick-paved plaza, between
9am–5pm daily; Jan–Feb: 10am–4pm
Hanover and Unity Streets,
daily; Jun–Oct: 9am–6pm daily. 5
provides a precious stretch of
9am, 11am Sun (also 5pm Jul–Aug).
7 & donation. 8 Mar–Dec:
open space in the crowded
“Behind the Scenes Tour” (fee neighborhood of the North End,
charged). ∑ oldnorth.com once populated by people of
Italian descent. Laid out in 1933,
Officially named Christ its focal point is an equestrian
Episcopal Church, the Old North statue of Paul Revere (1735– Paul Revere House, where the patriot
Church, which dates from 1723, 1818). Benches, a fountain, and began his midnight ride
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS  149

p Waterfront the waterfront, is a particularly grounds far offshore. The

fine example of such aquarium also has a gift shop
Map E3. Atlantic Ave. New England
Aquarium: Central Wharf. Tel (617) revitalization. This modern red- and a café with a beautiful
973-5200.  Aquarium. Open Jul– brick development, with condo- view of the harbor. Griffin’s
Aug: 9am–6pm Sun–Thu, 9am–7pm miniums, a hotel, and offices, Wharf, where the Boston Tea
Fri & Sat; Sep–Jun: 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, features a large archway that Party took place on December
9am–6pm Sat & Sun. & 7 9 = links the city to the harbor. 16, 1773, was long ago buried
- ∑ neaq.org Boston Tea Party The waterfront’s prime beneath landfill. Anchored
Ships and Museum: 306 Congress St. attraction is the New England nearby on Fort Point Channel,
Tel (617) 338-1773.  South Station. Aquarium, which dominates the Boston Tea Party Ships
Open 10am–5pm daily. & Central Wharf. Designed in replicate the British East India
∑ bostonteapartyship.com 1969, the aquarium’s core Company ships involved in the
Institute of Contemporary Art: encloses a vast four-story Tea Party protest (see p54). At
100 Northern Ave. Tel (617) 478-3100. ocean tank, which houses a Fan Pier, the light-flooded
 Courthouse. Open 10am–5pm
Caribbean coral reef galleries, performance
Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, 10am–9pm Thu
and contains a space open to
& Fri. & 7 ∑ icaboston.org
wide array of harbor views, and
Children’s Museum: 300 Congress St.
marine creatures cutting-edge
Tel (617) 426-6500.  S Station.
Open 10am–5pm daily (to 9pm Fri). such as sharks, moray media center
& 7 ∑ bostonkids.org eels, barracudas, and highlight the
sea turtles, as well as landmark
Boston’s waterfront is one of exotic, brightly colored building of the
the city’s most fascinating areas. tropical fish. A curving Lionfish, New Institute of
Fringed by wharves and ware- walkway runs around England Aquarium Contemporary Art,
houses – a reminder of the the outside of the tank where exhibitions
city’s past as a key trading from the top to the bottom, place strong emphasis on
port – its attractions include a and provides different electronic media and
famous aquarium and two viewpoints of the interior at performance art.
fine museums. many levels. Overlooking Fort Point
One of the largest wharves A particularly popular section Channel is a rejuvenated
is Long Wharf, established in of the aquarium is the Penguin 19th-century wool warehouse
1710. Once extending 2,000 ft Pool, which runs around the that houses the Children’s
(610 m) into Boston Harbor base of the ocean tank, while Museum, one of the best in the
and lined with shops and the west wing has an outdoor country. Its many attractions
warehouses, it provided secure tank with a lively colony of and interactive exhibits include
mooring for the largest ships harbor seals. In 2001, the a climbing wall, a hands-on art
of the time. Simons IMAX® Theater was studio, and a “construction
Harbor Walk connects Long opened on the wharf, which zone” with child-scaled trucks
Wharf with other adjacent presents changing programs of and blocks. They can also follow
wharves, dating from the early 3-D films on a giant screen. a giant maze or act in KidStage
1800s. Most of them have A highlight of the aquarium’s plays. An international flavor is
now been converted to fashion- programs are the boat trips added by a visit to the silk
able harborside apartments. from Boston Harbor, which take merchant’s house, transplanted
Rowes Wharf, to the south of visitors to the whale feeding from Kyoto in Japan.

Long Wharf stretching toward the waterfront and Custom House

150  NEW ENGLAND

a Trinity Church VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Routinely voted one of America’s ten finest buildings, Practical Information

this masterpiece by Henry Hobson Richardson dates from Map B5. Copley Sq. Tel (617) 536-
0944.  Copley. Open daily.
1877. The church is a beautiful granite and sandstone 5 7:45am, 9am, 11:15am,
Romanesque structure, standing on wooden piles driven 5:30pm Sun. Concerts: Sep–Jun:
through mud into bedrock, surmounted by granite pyramids. 12:15pm Fri. 8 call for hours. &
John LaFarge designed the interior, while some of the 7 ∑ trinitychurchboston.org

windows were designed by Edward Burne-Jones and

executed by William Morris.

. North Transept Windows

Designed by Burne-Jones and
executed by William Morris, the three
stained-glass windows above the
choir relate the story of Christmas.
The Chancel
The Bell Tower Seven beautiful windows here show
The Chancel wall was inspired by the life of Christ.
behind the altar the Renaissance
has a series of gold Cathedral at
bas-reliefs, Salamanca, in
depicting scenes central Spain.
from the Bible.

. West Portico
The deeply sculpted west portico
is modeled after St. Trophime in
The pulpit is Arles, France.
covered with
carved scenes from
the life of Christ as
well as portraits
of preachers.

West Portico

North
Transept
Windows

Main
Entrance

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS  151

the Church of the Covenant,

which contains the world’s
largest collection of Louis
Comfort Tiffany stained-glass
windows and an elaborate
Tiffany lantern.

R Church of the Covenant

67 Newbury St. Tel (617) 266-7480.
Open 10:30am Sun. & 7 8 9
∑ cotcbos.org

f Commonwealth
Avenue
Map B4.  Arlington, Copley, Hynes
Convention Center/ ICA.

Envisioned as Boston’s Champs

Elysées, this avenue, 200-ft
(61-m) wide, is lined with
beautiful townhouses. In the
second half of the 19th century,
it became an arena for America’s
leading domestic architects, and
a walk along it is like flicking
View over Back Bay and Charles River from 200 Clarendon through a catalog of architectural
styles. Bronze statues of historic
s Copley Square floor of this library is notable figures line the central mall.
for its soaring barrel-vaulted Abolitionist William Lloyd
Map B5.  Copley.
ceiling. Close by, on the corner Garrison’s statue, located
Named after the famous painter of Boylston and Dartmouth between Exeter and Dartmouth
John Singleton Copley (see p153), Streets, is the fabulous Italian- Streets, is said to capture his air
Copley Square was a marsh until Gothic-style New Old South of moral superiority, while the
1870 and took on its present Church, built in 1874–5. best-loved memorial features
form only in the late 20th sailor and historian Samuel Eliot
century. Today, this inviting plaza P 200 Clarendon Morison. In his statue, found
is an open space of trees and 200 Clarendon St. between Exeter and Fairfield
fountains, and a hive of civic Closed to the public. Streets, Morison strikes an
activity with weekly farmers’ P Boston Public Library informal pose, dangling his feet
markets and concerts in summer. Copley Square. Tel (617) 536-5400. from a rock.
Formerly known as the John Open 9am–9pm Mon–Thu, 9am–5pm The Romanesque-style First
Hancock Tower, 200 Clarendon Fri & Sat; Oct–May: 1–5pm Sun. Baptist Church, on the corner
was constructed in 1975 and Closed public hols. 7 8 2:30pm of Commonwealth Avenue
anchors the southeastern side Mon, 6pm Tue & Thu, 11am Wed, Fri & and Clarendon Street, is one
of the Square. The tallest building Sat. ∑ bpl.org of the most distinctive
in New England, the 740-ft buildings of the city skyline.
(226-m) tower’s mirrored façade Completed in 1872, its free-
reflects the beautiful Trinity d Newbury Street standing square bell tower,
Church and the original (1947) Map B5.  Arlington, Copley, Hynes
modeled on Italian campaniles,
Hancock Building, with its roof- Convention Center/ICA. is topped with a decorative
top beacon that forecasts the frieze by Bartholdi, the
weather. Flashing red indicates Newbury Street is a Boston sculptor who created the
rain ahead – or that the Red Sox synonym for “stylish.” Lined with Statue of Liberty. The faces in
game has been postponed. high-fashion outlets, art the frieze, which depict the
West of the Hancock Tower, galleries, and chic restaurants, sacraments, are likenesses of
across Copley Square, is the Italian this is a great place for people- prominent Bostonians of the
palazzo-style Boston Public watching. Lower Newbury near time, among them Henry
Library, built 1887–95. A marvel the Public Garden is posh and Wadsworth Longfellow and
of fine wood and marble, the elegant, while upper Newbury Ralph Waldo Emerson.
library has huge bronze doors, buzzes with youth-oriented
and murals by John Singer shops and services. Churches R First Baptist Church
Sargent in a third-floor gallery. provide vestiges of a more 110 Commonwealth Ave. Tel (617)
The vast Bates Hall on the second decorous era. Most notable is 267-3148. Open for Sun worship. 7
152  NEW ENGLAND

Greater Boston paintings, sculptures, and

tapestries are still displayed as
Southwest of central Boston, what were once the marshlands Mrs. Gardner arranged them,
of the Fenway now house two superb art museums – the in galleries around a flower-
Museum of Fine Arts and the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. filled central courtyard.
A striking modern wing
West of the city, across the Charles River, is the college town designed by architect Renzo
of Cambridge, dominated by Harvard University. To its east is Piano opened in 2012, adding
historic Charlestown, which forms a major part of Boston’s galleries, a café, and an intimate
Freedom Trail (see pp142–3). performance space for the
acclaimed concert series.
h Isabella Stewart
Gardner Museum j Museum of

25 Evans Way. Tel (617) 566-1401. Fine Arts

 MFA. Open 11am–5pm Wed–Mon Avenue of the Arts, 465 Huntington
(until 9pm Thu). Closed Jan 1, Thanksg., Ave. Tel (617) 267-9300.  MFA.
Dec 25. & 8 9 call for concert Open 10am–4:45pm Sat–Tue,
schedule. ∑ gardnermuseum.org 10am–9:45pm Wed–Fri (selected
collections Thu & Fri). Closed Jan 1,
This Venetian-style palazzo, 3rd Mon in Apr, Jul 4, Thanksgiving,
completed in 1903, houses a Dec 25. & 7 8 9 Lectures,
remarkable collection of over concerts, & films. 0 - =
2,500 works of art, including Old ∑ mfa.org
Masters and Italian Renaissance
The dramatic structure of the John F. Kennedy pieces. Advised by art scholar The largest art museum in New
Library and Museum Bernard Berenson, the wealthy England, and one of the five
and strong-willed Isabella largest in the US, the Museum
g John F. Kennedy
Stewart Gardner began of Fine Arts (MFA) has a
Library & Museum collecting art in the late permanent collection of
Columbia Point, Dorchester.
19th century and acquired approximately 450,000 objects,
Tel (617) 514-1600.  JFK/U Mass. masterpieces by Titian, ranging from Egyptian artifacts
Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1, Rembrandt, and Matisse as to modern American paintings.
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 8 9 well as the American painters Though founded in 1876, the
∑ jfklibrary.org James McNeill Whistler and MFA’s original Beaux Arts-style
John Singer Sargent. The building dates from 1909. It was
Housed in a dramatic white
concrete and black glass
building designed by architect
I.M. Pei, this museum chronicles
the 1,000 days of the Kennedy
presidency. The combination of
video and film footage, papers,
and memorabilia evoke the
euphoria of “Camelot” as well
as the numb horror of the
assassination with an
immediacy that is uncommon
in historical museums. Some of
the key chambers in the White
House, including the Oval
Office, are re-created here.
The house at 83 Beals Street
in Brookline, where the late
president was born in 1917,
is now the John F. Kennedy
National Historic Site. The
Kennedy family moved to a
larger house in 1921; in 1966
they repurchased this house,
and restored it to how it would
have looked in 1917. It is
open during the summer
and fall. Statue of Artemis in the central courtyard of the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS  153

popular galleries displays La

Japonaise by Monet and Dance
at Bougival by Renoir.
The American Painting
collection includes more than
2,000 works. Among the
highlights are portraits by the
Boston artist John Singleton
Copley, perhaps America’s most
talented 18th-century painter,
and sumptuous portraits by
John Singer Sargent (1856–
1925), who also painted murals
on the museum’s domed
Impressive hall of European Art at the Museum of Fine Arts rotunda. Other works include
19th-century landscapes by
augmented in 2010 by the 53 second floor. Outstanding early Luminist painter Fitz Henry
galleries of the Art of Americas exhibits here include scroll and Lane, and seascapes by Winslow
Wing. In 2011, the museum screen paintings. A highlight Homer. Twentieth-century
transformed its west-facing of the museum is the serene American masters represented
wing, designed in 1981 by Japanese Temple Room, on the include Stuart Davis, Jackson
I.M. Pei, into the Linde Family first floor, known for its exquisite Pollock, and Georgia O’Keeffe.
Wing for Contemporary Art. examples of Buddhist art. The Decorative Arts exhibit
The Museum of Fine Art’s The European Art collections displays silver tea services
excellent collection of ancient date from the 7th to the 20th made by Paul Revere (see p148);
Egyptian and Nubian Art is centuries and feature Dutch 18th-century Boston-style
unparalleled outside of Africa paintings, including portraits clocks; numerous ship models;
and derives primarily from the by Rembrandt. The Koch Gallery, and outstanding examples of
MFA–Harvard University with its magnificent wooden contemporary crafts. Period
excavations along the coffered ceiling, displays rooms present decorative arts
Nile, which began in masterpieces by in a historical context. They
1905. It also includes a El Greco, Titian, include furnishings and
wonderful collection and Rubens. reproduced decor of the three
of mummies that is Boston’s 19th- circa-1800 rooms from a
located on the first century collectors Peabody mansion designed
floor. The adjacent enriched the MFA with by Federal-period architect
gallery of Ancient Near wonderful French art: Samuel McIntire.
Eastern Art exhibits the museum features In addition to these major
Babylonian, Assyrian, several paintings by collections, the Museum of
and Sumerian reliefs. On Jean-François Millet as Fine Arts also has important
the second floor are well as by 19th-century holdings in the multifarious
several monumental French artists such as arts of Africa, Oceania, and the
sculptures of Nubian Edouard Manet, Pierre- ancient Americas, and collec-
kings, dating from the Auguste Renoir, and tions of musical instruments
7th to 6th centuries BC. Egyptian Edgar Degas. It also has and manuscripts. A pioneer
The MFA boasts one of sarcophagi several paintings by van in collecting photography,
America’s top holdings of Gogh, and holds the the MFA holds archival
Classical Art as well. Among the most important Monet collection work by Yousuf Karsh and
highlights of this collection are outside of Paris. One of the most Bradford Washburn.
Greek figured vases, carved
Etruscan sarcophagi, and Roman
portrait busts. Also on display are
a series of wall-panel paintings
unearthed in Pompeii in 1901.
The Asian Art collections are said
to be the most extensive under
one roof anywhere in the world.
They include Indian sculpture
and narrative paintings, and
exhibitions of Islamic miniature
paintings that keep changing.
A beautiful stairway with
carved lions leads to the Chinese
and Japanese galleries on the The impressive Beaux Arts-style exterior of the Museum of Fine Arts
154  NEW ENGLAND

Museum, with exhibits such as

Harold Edgerton’s stroboscopic
flash photographs and the latest
holographic art.
An altogether more old-
world atmosphere prevails at
the campus of Harvard
University, with its red-brick,
ivy-covered walls. Founded in
1636, Harvard is the oldest
university in the US and one of
the world’s most prestigious
centers of learning. At the heart
of the campus, which
The simple interior of Christ Church in Cambridge encompasses more than 400
buildings, is the leafy Old
k Cambridge 1630s. It has served as a center Harvard Yard, dotted with
 Harvard. @ 1, 69. n Harvard
for social, religious, and student dormitories. Its focal
Square Information Booth: (617) 441-
political activity ever since. The point is the statue of its most
2884. Cambridge Office of Tourism: Common was used as an army famous benefactor, the cleric
(800) 862-5678. ( Sun. _ River encampment from 1775 to John Harvard. To the right of
Festival (late Jun). ∑ harvard.edu 1776, and a stone here marks the statue is the imposing
∑ cambridge-usa.org the spot where George Widener Library, which, with
Washington took command over 3 million volumes, is the
Though part of the Greater of the Continental Army on third largest in the US. Another
Boston metropolitan area, July 3, 1775, beneath the impressive building in the Yard
Cambridge is a city in its own Washington Elm. Today, its is the Memorial Church, built
right, dominated by two world- tree-shaded lawns and in 1931, whose steeple is
famous universities, the Massa- playgrounds are popular with modeled on that of the Old
chusetts Institute of Technology families and students. North Church (see p148).
(MIT) and Harvard. It also has a Christ Church, a short Standing out amid Harvard’s
number of sights associated distance south of the Common, Georgian-style buildings is the
with the American Revolution. was designed in 1761 by Peter Carpenter Center for Visual Arts,
Among them is the historic Harrison, the architect of designed by the avant-garde
house on Brattle Street, now Boston’s King’s Chapel (see French architect Le Corbusier.
known as the Longfellow p146). In 1775, it served as a The Harvard Art Museums are
House – Washington’s Head- barracks for Continental Army a major draw for visitors. In
quarters National Historic Site. troops, who melted down the November 2014, the university’s
Built by Colonial-era merchants organ pipes to cast musket main art museum building,
loyal to the British Crown during balls. The church was restored which was originally completed
the Revolution, it was seized by for services on New Year’s in 1927, reopened after a six-year
American revolutionaries, and Eve, 1775, when George project of renovation and
served as George Washington’s Washington and his wife were expansion designed by architect
headquarters during the Siege among the worshipers.
of Boston. From 1843 until his The 135-acre (55-ha)
death in 1888, it was also the campus of the
home of the famous poet Massachusetts Institute of
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, Technology (MIT), one of
who wrote his most famous the world’s leading
poems, including The Song of universities in engineering
Hiawatha, here. and the sciences, stretches
Harvard Square is the area’s along the Charles River.
main shopping and entertain- Among the masterpieces
ment district, full of cafés, of modern architecture
inexpensive restaurants, trendy that dot its campus are
boutiques, and street performers. Eero Saarinen’s Kresge
Harvard’s large student Auditorium and Kresge
population is much in evidence Chapel, and the Wiesner
here, adding to the square’s Building designed by I.M.
lively character. Pei, which houses a noted
Cambridge Common, north collection of avant-garde
of Harvard Square, was set aside art in the List Visual Art
as a common pasture and Center. Art and Science
military drill ground in the are blended in the MIT Students strolling through Harvard Yard
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS  155

Renzo Piano. The facility steps lead to the top where

brings the collections of the climbers are rewarded with
university’s three major art spectacular views of Boston
museums under one roof. Harbor and the new Zakim
A glass roof illuminates the Bridge, the new northern
central courtyard, which is gateway to Boston (staircase
also a passageway through closes at 4:30pm). Exhibits in the
the museum. A café adjoins base of the monument explain
the courtyard. The three the history and significance of
museum collections span the the battle, which bought time
continents and centuries. for Continental Army forces to
The Fogg Art Museum focuses assemble to keep the British
on European art from the late occupying forces penned up
Middle Ages to the present, with Chinese statues from the Sackler on the Boston peninsula.
particular strengths in pre- Museum’s collection Charlestown Navy Yard,
Renaissance and Renaissance established in 1800, is the home
painting, as well as the Wertheim include totem carvings by of America’s most famous
Collection of Impressionist and Pacific Northwest tribes, Navajo warship, the USS Constitution.
Post-Impressionist art. weavings, artifacts from the Built in 1797, and nicknamed
The Busch-Reisinger Lewis & Clark Expedition, and “Old Ironsides” (see p143), she
Museum concentrates on casts of objects unearthed at is the oldest commissioned
Germanic art, particularly of the Chichén Itzá in Mexico and warship afloat and a veteran
20th century, and contains Copán in Honduras. of 42 victorious battles at sea.
works by such masters as Although in the Dry Dock till
Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee, E Harvard Art Museums late 2017 for restoration, she
Emil Nolde, and Oskar 32 Quincy St. Tel (617) 495-9400. is taken out into the harbor
Kokoschka. Late medieval Open 10am–5pm daily. on July 4 each year for a
sculpture and 18th-century art Closed public hols. & 7 8 turnaround that reverses her
are also strongly represented. ∑ harvardartmuseums.org position at the pier. Visitors
The Sackler Museum houses E Peabody Museum of must pass a security check.
a rich collection of ancient Archaeology & Ethnology
Greek and Roman, Asian, 11 Divinity Ave. Tel (617) 496-1027. Environs
Indian, and Near Eastern art, Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1, The Colonial town of Lexington,
and some of the finest Chinese Jul 4, Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. & 16 miles (26 km) northwest of
bronzes outside China. 7 8 ∑ peabody.harvard.edu Boston, is the site of the first
The Harvard Museum of E Harvard Museum of bloody skirmish between armed
Natural History is the public Natural History colonists, called Minutemen,
face of three Harvard institutions: 26 Oxford St. Tel (617) 495-3045. and British troops. This battle,
the Botanical Museum, the Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Jul 4, on April 19, 1775, acted as a
Museum of Comparative Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. & 7 8 catalyst for the Revolutionary
Zoology, and the Mineralogical ∑ hmnh.harvard.edu War (see p54). The Lexington
and Geological Museum. Battle Green, with its Minute
Highlights include fascinating Man statue, is the focal point
exhibits, from dinosaurs to
l Charlestown of the town. Three historic
whales to ants, and the “glass  Community College. @ 93. g buildings associated with
flowers” – 3,000 botanically from Long Wharf. ( Wed. _ Jun 24. the battle and maintained
correct, exquisite models of by the local Historical Society
850 plant species in handblown Historic Charlestown, its are open to visitors seasonally.
glass, created between 1887 and picturesque streets lined with
1936 by father and son artisans Colonial houses, is the site of
Leopold and Rudolph Blaschka. the pivotal Battle of Bunker
Don’t miss the spectacular Hill, which took place on
geodes or the collections June 17, 1775. This was the
of mysterious meteorites. Revolution’s first pitched battle
The Peabody Museum of between British and Colonial
Archaeology and Ethnology, troops, and, though the latter
entered at the opposite side of lost, they made a courageous
the building from the Natural stand, inflicting huge losses on
History Museum, has impressive the much larger British force.
collections of Egyptian, North The Bunker Hill Monument, a
American Indian, and Central 221-ft (67-m) granite obelisk,
American artifacts as well as dedicated in 1843, commem-
objects from the South Pacific orates this event. The building Granite obelisk of the Bunker Hill
Islands. Outstanding exhibits has no elevator, but 294 stone Monument in Charlestown
156  NEW ENGLAND

Massachusetts
Of all the New England states, Massachusetts may have the
most diverse mix of natural and man-made attractions. Scenic
seascapes and picturesque villages beckon along the eastern
seaboard and Cape Cod. Venturing inland, visitors will find
historic towns where America’s early architecture has been
well preserved. In the west, green mountains and valleys, and
rich culture, characterize the Berkshire Hills.

2 Salem E Peabody Essex Museum

East India Sq. Tel (978) 745-9500, (866)
* 38,000. k 4 From Boston’s Long
745-1876. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. Concord’s Old Manse, home to 19th-century
Wharf. n 2 New Liberty St, (978) 740- & 8 7 - ∑ pem.org
1650. _ Haunted Halloween (Oct). literary giants
∑ salem.org
Environs 4 Concord
This coastal town, founded in Marblehead, just 4 miles (6 km) * 17,750. k n 58 Main St, (978)
1626, is best known for the from Salem, is a picturesque 369-3120. _ Battle of Concord
infamous witch trials of 1692, and historic seaport village, with Re-enactment (Apr). ∑ concord
which resulted in the execution historic buildings, mansions, chamberofcommerce.org
of 20 innocent people. The and cottages, most notable of
Salem Witch Museum traces which are Abbot Hall and the This peaceful, prosperous town
the history of witchcraft and Jeremiah Lee Mansion. has an eventful past. It was here
evolving perceptions of that the Battle of Concord took
witches to the present day. place on April 19, 1775 which,
In the 18th and 19th 3 Lowell together with the battle at
centuries, Salem was one of nearby Lexington (see p155),
* 103,000. k @ n 40 French St,
New England’s busiest ports, signaled the beginning of the
2nd Floor (978) 459-6150.
its harbor filled with ships Revolutionary War. The 900-acre
carrying treasures from around Lowell has the distinction of (400-ha) Minute Man National
the globe. The Peabody Essex being the country’s first industrial Historical Park preserves the
Museum contains some of the city. In the early 19th century, site of the battle, where a group
world’s deepest holdings of the first cloth mill equipped of ordinary citizens and colonist
Asian art and artifacts. Many with a power loom opened here, farmers, known as Minutemen
of the museum’s exhibits, and the town soon had a number (see p54), fought against British
such as jewelry, porcelain of giant mill complexes. But after troops, driving them back from
figures, costumes, and the Great Depression (see p59) the park’s North Bridge and
scrimshaw objects, were the mills closed down, leaving chasing them back to Boston.
brought back from distant Lowell a ghost town. Since 1978, In the 19th century, Concord
shores by Salem’s sea captains. many downtown buildings blossomed into the literary
The town’s historic waterfront have been restored and the heart and soul of the country,
has been preserved as the Lowell National Historical Park with many writers establishing
Salem Maritime National traces the history of the town’s homes here. Both Ralph Waldo
Historic Site. It offers tours and textile industry. Lowell is also Emerson and Nathaniel
maintains the 1819 Custom home to the New England Hawthorne lived briefly in The
House and a re-created 1797 Quilt Museum, which has a Old Manse; Emerson lived for
East Indiaman sailing ship, the varied collection of displays of nearly 50 years, until his death
Friendship, which is moored beautiful antique, as well as in 1882, at Emerson House,
at a historic wharf. contemporary, quilts. where his furniture, books, and
memorabilia are on display.
Also in Concord is Walden
Salem Witch Trials Pond, immortalized in the
In 1692, Salem was swept by a wave of hysteria in writings of the essayist Henry
which 200 citizens were accused of practicing David Thoreau (1817–62). In
witchcraft. In all, 150 people were jailed and 19 were his influential work Walden;
hanged as witches, while another man was crushed or Life in the Woods, Thoreau
to death with stones. No one was safe: two dogs called for a return to simplicity
were executed on the gallows for being witches. Not in everyday life and a respect
surprisingly, when the governor’s wife became a for nature. Walden is widely
Early accused: suspect, the trials came to an abrupt and officially considered to be the birthplace
sanctioned end. of the conservationist move-
Rebecca Nurse
ment. The pond and its
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 MASSACHUSETTS  157

surrounding 333 acres (135 ha) who survived the brutal

of undeveloped woodland are crossing on this small, cramped
ideal for walks, swimming, ship succumbed to illness
and fishing. and malnutrition during their
first winter in Plymouth. They
Y Walden Pond State are buried across the street
Reservation on Coles Hill, where there is
915 Walden St. Tel (978) 369-3254. a statue of the Native American
Open call for hours. & 8 7 chief Massasoit, who became
an ally of the survivors. There is
a panoramic view of the harbor
5 Plymouth from here.
The Pilgrim Hall Museum,
* 52,000. k g to Provincetown
opened in 1824, has the largest
(seasonal). n 130 Water St, (508)
747-7525, (800) USA-1620. existing collection of Pilgrim-era
∑ seeplymouth.com Mayflower II, replica of the original Pilgrim furniture, armor, and decorative
ship, in Plymouth arts. There are also several
The ship Mayflower, with 102 historic homes, including the
Pilgrims aboard, sailed into Most of the historic sights can 1677 Harlow Old Fort House,
Plymouth Harbor in 1620 and be accessed on foot by the one of the few remaining
established the first permanent Pilgrim Path that stretches 17th-century buildings in
European settlement in New along the waterfront and the town. It is operated by the
England. Today the town bustles downtown areas. A sightseeing Plymouth Antiquarian Society,
with visitors exploring the sites trolley also connects points of which offers seasonal tours and
of America’s earliest days, interest. At the Harbor is special events, including an
including Plimoth Plantation. Plymouth Rock, a boulder annual Pilgrim breakfast.
Plymouth itself is a popular marking the spot where the
seaside town, with a 3.5-mile Pilgrims are said to have first P Plimoth Plantation
(6-km) beach, offering harbor stepped ashore. Moored by it is Rte 3A. n 137 Warren Ave, (508) 746-
cruises and fishing excursions. the Mayflower II, a replica of 1622. Open late Mar–Nov: 9am–5pm
In the fall, the surrounding bogs the 17th-century sailing ship daily. & 7 limited access to parts of
turn ruby red as the annual that carried the Pilgrims over site; wheelchairs available on request.
= ∑ plimoth.org
cranberry harvest gets underway. from England. Many of those

Plimoth Plantation
Encircled by a palisade, Plimoth Plantation is a re-creation of the
Pilgrims’ 1627 village, complete with costumed interpreters,
portraying actual colonists, each with a story to tell. The Wampanoag
Village depicts Native American life before settlers arrived.
Hopkins House Storehouse
Stephen Hopkins’ Provisions were stored here, along
wife gave birth to their with furs and other goods to be
son Oceanus on shipped to England.
the Mayflower.

Vegetable garden

Outer
palisade

Allerton House
The roof of this house
is thatched with the
The Cow Shed
long-lasting, virtually is enclosed by
waterproof local reeds. a paddock.
158  NEW ENGLAND

(1888–1969) bought in 1926,

expanding it into a sprawling
vacation retreat for his nine
children and their families. The
John F. Kennedy Hyannis
Museum recalls those happy
times. After Kennedy’s
assassination in 1963, a simple
memorial was erected in his
Cape Cod’s Old Harbor Life-Saving Station, built in 1897 honor: a pool and fountain,
and a circular wall bearing
6 Cape Cod when its population swells and Kennedy’s profile.
~ @ 215 Iyannough Rd, Hyannis.
it is a leading gay resort. Busy One of Hyannis’ most popular
g Ocean St, Hyannis; Railroad Ave, MacMillan Wharf is the jumping- forms of transportation is the
Woods Hole. n Jct Rtes 132 & 6, off point for whale-watching Cape Cod Central Railroad,
Hyannis, Rte 3, Plymouth, (508) cruises. Since the early 20th which offers a scenic 2-hour
362-3225. _ Cape Cod Maritime century, the town has also had a round trip to the Cape Cod canal.
Week (May), Annual Bourne Scallop bustling artists’ colony, counting Hiking trails, salt marshes, tidal
Festival (Sep). among its famous residents the pools, and 12 miles (19 km) of
painters Mark Rothko and beaches attract visitors to
More than 13 million people Jackson Pollock, and the Falmouth, with its picturesque
arrive each summer to enjoy writers Eugene O’Neill and village green. It also has the
the boundless beaches, Tennessee Williams. The 3.3-mile (5-km) Shining Sea
natural beauty, and quaint work of local artists is also Bike Path, with vistas of beach,
Colonial villages of Cape displayed in the Province- harbor, and woodland. The
Cod, and the neighboring town Art Association and path leads to the world’s largest
islands of Martha’s Vineyard Museum. Chatham, an independent marine science
and Nantucket. A special attractive, upscale research center, the Woods
attraction for visitors are community, offers fine inns, Hole Oceanographic Institute.
whale-watching cruises, attractive shops, and a Sandwich, the oldest town
offered from April to mid- popular summer playhouse. in the Cape, is straight off a
October. The Cape, shaped Fishing boats stop and postcard: a church overlooking
like an upraised arm bent unload their catch at the a picturesque pond, fed by
at the elbow, extends pier, and the surrounding a brook that powers the
some 70 miles (113 km) waters offer good oppor- waterwheel of a Colonial-era
into the sea. Pilgrim tunities for seasonal gristmill. The church bell, dating
Cape Cod National Monument anglers. The Railroad to 1675, is said to be the oldest
Seashore, stretching more Museum, housed in an in the US. The town’s most
than 40 miles (64 km) along the 1887 Victorian train station, has unusual attraction is Heritage
northernmost section of the photos, memorabilia, and Museums & Gardens, a 75-acre
Cape, from Provincetown to vintage railroad cars. (30-ha) garden and museum
Chatham, is famous for its Hyannis, the largest village in housing the eclectic collection
horseshoe-shaped dunes, white Cape Cod, is a busy shopping of the pharmaceutical tycoon
sand beaches, salt marshes, center and the main transport- Josiah K. Lilly Jr. (1893–1966).
glacial cliffs, and woodlands. ation hub for the region. It is Exhibits include 37 antique
Historical structures, such as the also famous as the summer cars, Native American relics,
Old Harbor Life-Saving Station home of the country’s most and a 1912 carousel. The
and the 18th-century Atwood celebrated political dynasty, the gardens are famous for their
Higgins House, are interspersed Kennedys. The heavily screened lovely rhododendrons. Just a
among the area’s beautiful Kennedy compound is best 45-minute boat ride away
natural features. seen from the water aboard a from the mainland lies Martha’s
One of the most popular sightseeing cruise. At its center Vineyard. This 108-sq mile
destinations on the Cape is is the “cottage” that multi- (280-sq km) island combines
Provincetown. This picturesque millionaire Joseph Kennedy mesmerizing scenic beauty
town has a historic past – the
Pilgrims first landed here in 1620
and stayed for five weeks before
pushing on to the mainland.
The 252-ft (77-m) Pilgrim
Monument, the tallest granite
structure in the US, commem-
orates this event. Today,
Provincetown is especially vibrant
during the summer months, Popular sightseeing trip on the Cape Cod Central Railroad
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 MASSACHUSETTS  159

8 The Berkshires
k £ Pittsfield. n 66 Allen St,
Pittsfield, (413) 743-4500.
∑ berkshires.org

Wooded hills, green valleys,

rippling rivers, and waterfalls
have long attracted visitors
to this western corner of
Massachusetts, which is rich
in opportunities for outdoor as
Fishing boat moored outside a fishing shack, Martha’s Vineyard well as cultural activity. The area
is speckled with scenic small
with the charms of a beach P Cape Cod National Seashore towns and villages. Pittsfield,
resort and abounds in oppor- Rte 6, Cape Cod. n Salt Pond Visitor in the shadow of Mount
tunities for outdoor activities. Center, Rte 6, Eastham, (508) 255-3421. Greylock, is famous as the home
Each town has its own Open year-round. & late Jun–early of Herman Melville (1819–91),
distinctive atmosphere and Sep only. ∑ nps.gov/caco where he wrote his masterpiece,
architectural style. E John F. Kennedy Moby Dick. Lenox has the grand
Most visitors arrive by ferry at Hyannis Museum estates of Edith Wharton and
the island’s commercial hub, 397 Main St, Hyannis. Tel (508) 970- other prominent figures. Each
Vineyard Haven. On the eastern 3077. Open mid-Apr–May & Nov: summer, it also hosts the
shore is Edgartown, with the 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm Sun; prestigious Tanglewood Musical
gracious 19th-century homes of Jun–Oct: 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon– Festival, featuring performances
the town’s wealthy sea captains 5pm Sun. & 7 ∑ jfkhyannis from a wide variety of musical
and merchants. The Martha’s museum.org genres. The main street of
Vineyard Museum is housed in E Heritage Museums & Gardens Stockbridge has been immorta-
one of them – the Thomas 67 Grove St, Sandwich. Tel (508) 888- lized in the paintings of one of
Cooke House (c.1730), filled with 3300. Open mid–Apr–Oct: 10am– America’s most beloved illustrators,
family possessions and other 5pm daily. & 7 ∑ heritage Norman Rockwell (1894–1978),
exhibits. From here, a short ferry museumsandgardens.org who lived here for 25 years. His
ride goes to Chappaquiddick E Martha’s Vineyard Museum
works can be seen in the town’s
Island, where, in 1969, a car driven 59 School St, Edgartown. Tel (508)
Norman Rockwell Museum.
by Senator Edward Kennedy 627-4441. Open mid-May–mid-Oct: Especially attractive to
(1932–2009) went off the bridge, 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun. nature lovers is the Mount
killing a woman passenger. & 7 = ∑ mvmuseum.org Washington State Forest and
North of Edgartown is Oak the nearby Bash Bish State Park.
P Nantucket Historical
Bluffs, with its gingerbread
Association (NHA)
cottages, while the western E Norman Rockwell Museum
15 Broad St, Nantucket Island. Rte 183. Tel (413) 298-4100.
Shoreline is tranquil and rural
Tel (508) 228-1894. Historic buildings: Open May–Oct: 10am–5pm daily;
with pristine beaches. Open call for hours. & 8 7
Nantucket Island, a 14-mile- Nov–Apr: 10am–4pm Mon–Fri,
Whaling Museum only. ∑ nha.org 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed Jan 1,
(22-km-) long enclave of
tranquillity with only one town, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 8 7 =
∑ nrm.org
remains a largely untamed
world of kettle ponds, quiet 7 Sturbridge
beaches, cranberry bogs, and
Old Sturbridge Village: Rte 20,
fields of wild grapes and
Sturbridge. Tel (508) 347-3362.
blueberries, punctuated by Open early Apr–late Oct: 9:30am–
occasional houses. Nantucket 5pm daily; late Oct–early Apr: call for
was a prosperous center of the hours. Closed Dec. & 8 7
whaling industry in the early ∑ osv.org
1800s, and the mansions of sea
captains and merchants reflect This small town is home to Old
those glory days. The Nantucket Sturbridge Village, an open-air
Historical Association (NHA) museum in the form of an early
operates 11 historical buildings 19th-century village. At the
in the town, one of which heart of the museum are about
houses a fascinating Whaling 40 vintage buildings that have
Museum. A popular spot, been restored and relocated
8 miles (13 km) from town, from all over New England.
is Siasconset village, famous They include the Federal-style
for its rose-colored bluffs and Towne House, a meetinghouse, Bash Bish Falls, near Mount Washington
lanes with tiny cottages. a tavern, and a store. State Forest in the Berkshires
160  NEW ENGLAND

Rhode Island Founded in 1764, Brown

University is the seventh-
The smallest state in America, Rhode Island is not an island at oldest college in the US and
all but has a shoreline dotted with lovely islets and beaches. one of the prestigious Ivy
Although known as the Ocean State, half of Rhode Island is League schools. Its beautiful
woodland, ideal for nature walks and camping. The state’s two campus, a rich blend of
Gothic and Beaux Arts styles,
major cities are Providence, the lively capital, and Newport, is worth exploring. Notable
which has some of New England’s most opulent mansions. buildings here include the John
Hay Library with its collection
of memorabilia relating to
President Abraham Lincoln, the
John Carter Brown Library with
a fascinating collection of
Americana, and the List Art
Center, a striking building
designed by Philip Johnson,
which features Classical and
contemporary art.
John Brown House, a
Georgian mansion, built in 1786
for a wealthy merchant and
shipowner, has been impeccably
Stately buildings along Benefit Street’s Mile of History in Providence restored. Its interior is decorated
with ornate plaster-ornamented
9 Providence street has more than 100 houses ceilings, a grand staircase with
ranging in style from Colonial twisted balusters, and wallpapers
* 174,000. ~ £ Providence Station,
and Federal to Greek Revival from France. Its 12 rooms are a
100 Gaspee St. @ Kennedy Plaza.
g Point St (to Newport). and Victorian. Its architectural repository for some of the finest
n 1 Sabin St, (401) 751-1177 or (800) gems include the Providence furniture and antiques of that
233-1636. _ Festival of Historic Athenaeum, a Greek-Revival- period. Nearby, another house
Houses (Jun); International Film style library, whose collection with fine 18th-century
Festival (Aug). ∑ goprovidence.com dates back to 1753 and the First furnishings is the 1707 Governor
Unitarian Church. Its 2,500-lb Stephen Hopkins House.
Perched on seven hills on (1,130-kg) bell was one of the One of the brightest additions
the banks of Narragansett Bay, largest cast by Paul Revere’s to downtown Providence is
Providence is an interesting foundry. Also on Benefit Street is Waterplace Park and
blend of the historic and the the Rhode Island School of Riverwalk, a 4-acre (1.6-ha)
modern. It started life as a Design’s RISD Museum of Art, walkway located at the junction
farming community, established whose comprehensive collection of three rivers – the Moshassuck,
in 1636 by the clergyman ranges from Ancient Egyptian to Providence, and Woona-
Roger Williams, who was contemporary American art. A squatucket. Visitors can also
driven from the Massachusetts short distance to the north, on stroll along the park’s cobble-
Bay colony for his outspoken Main Street, is the First Baptist stone paths, float under foot-
beliefs on religious freedom. Church in America. The 1774–5 bridges in canoes or gondolas,
It soon became a flourishing building has an intricately and enjoy free concerts at the
seaport, and then evolved into carved wooden interior and a amphitheater during the
a hub of industry in the 19th Waterford crystal chandelier. summer season.
century, with immigrants from
Europe pouring in to work in
its textile mills.
Providence is bisected by the
Providence River. On its west
bank is the downtown district,
with a lively dining and
entertainment scene and a
revitalized waterfront, largely
due to Waterfire Providence®’s
art installations and bonfires. To
the east is the campus of Brown
University and several historic
streets. The most outstanding of
these is Benefit Street’s Mile
of History. This lovely tree-lined Roger Williams Park and Zoo, a highlight of downtown Providence
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 RHODE ISLAND  161

Known as the “Temple of Trade”, The city’s largest green space is

The Arcade, an 1828 Greek- the Roger Williams Park and
Revival building, covers an Zoo. Once farmland, this 422-
entire block in the city’s old acre (171-ha) park now holds
financial district. The first indoor gardens, greenhouses, and
shopping mall in the US, this ponds, a lake with paddleboats
massive three-story stone and rowboats, as well as
complex, with its high Ionic jogging and cycling tracks and
granite columns, has a skylight a tennis center. Children
extending the entire length of especially love the carousel
the building, providing light rides and train, the planetarium,
even on rainy days. Renovated and the Museum of Natural Rhode Island State House with its
in 2013, the building has shops History. The highlight of the marble dome
and restaurants on the first level, park, however, is the zoo, which
P John Brown House
with apartments above. has more than 900 animals,
52 Power St. Tel (401) 273-7507.
Downtown Providence is dom- including mammals such as
8 Apr–Nov: 1:30–3pm Tue–Fri,
inated by the imposing Rhode zebras, giraffes, and cheetahs.
10:30am–3pm Sat; Dec–Mar:
Island State House, constructed The giraffes and elephants in 10:30am–3pm Sat.
in 1904. Its magnificent white the Fabric of Africa exhibit &8=
marble dome is topped by a can be observed easily from
bronze statue called Independent the raised viewing deck. P Rhode Island State
Man, a symbol of Rhode Island’s House
free spirit. Among the displays E RISD Museum of Art 82 Smith St. Tel (401) 222-3983.
224 Benefit St. Tel (401) 454-6500. Open 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri.
inside are the original state
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun, 10am– Closed public hols.
charter of 1663 and a full-length 8 9am, 10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm.
portrait of President George 9pm third Thu. Closed public hols. &
∑ risd.edu 7=-
Washington by Gilbert Stuart.

Downtown
Providence
1 Benefit Street’s
Mile of History
2 Providence Athenaeum
3 RISD Museum of Art
4 First Baptist Church
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TF Green State Airport
12 miles (19 km)
For keys to symbols see back flap
162  NEW ENGLAND

year. The Breakers is one of

the finest examples.
Newport is also home to
the oldest synagogue in USA.
Built in 1763 by Sephardic
Jews who had fled Spain and
Portugal in search of religious
tolerance, the Touro Synagogue
is an outstanding example of
18th-century architecture. It
is located just east of Washington
Square, where a number of
Scores of yachts in the harbor at Newport historic Colonial buildings
have been preserved. Among
0 Newport on Bellevue Avenue on the them is the Brick Market
southeastern side of the city. Museum and Shop housed
* 28,000. ~ @ Gateway Center,
Built between 1748 and 1902, in the market, which was the
23 America’s Cup Ave. g Perrotti Park
(to Providence). n 23 America’s Cup when the rich and famous center of commerce in Colonial
Ave, (401) 845-9123, (800) 326-6030. flocked here each summer to times. Also on the Square is the
_ Newport Tennis Week (Jul), Jazz beat New York’s heat, these White Horse Tavern (see p188),
Festival (Jul–Aug). summer “cottage” retreats of which claims to be the oldest
∑ discovernewport.org the country’s wealthiest families, continuously operating tavern
such as the Vanderbilts and the in America; it was granted its
A center of trade, culture, Astors, are some of America’s liquor license in 1673.
wealth, and military activity for grandest private homes. Apart from its mansions
more than 300 years, Newport is Modeled on European palaces and historic sites, Newport
a true sightseeing mecca. The and decorated with the finest also has numerous outdoor
town’s main attractions are its artworks, the mansions were attractions. South of
mansions, most of them located used for only 10 weeks of the Washington Square is Fort

The Breakers
The architecture and ostentation of the Gilded Age of the late 1800s The Dining Room, a two-
reached its pinnacle with The Breakers, the summer home of the railroad story room, has a stunning
magnate Cornelius Vanderbilt II (1843–99). Completed in 1895, the four- arched ceiling and two
story, 70-room limestone mansion was modeled after 16th-century huge crystal chandeliers.
palaces in Turin and Genoa. Its interior is adorned with marble, stained
glass, gilt, and crystal.

Mrs. Vanderbilt’s Bedroom is

sumptuously decorated in
Louis XVI style. The Upper
Loggia has
enchanting
views of
The Music the Atlantic
Room was the Ocean.
scene of many
grand dances
and recitals.

The Billiard
Room features
several costly
wall marbles.

The Morning Room ceiling is adorned

The Great Hall with paintings of the four seasons,
rises two the mahogany doors with the four
full stories. The sculpted archways are elements. All the cornices and panels
inspired by Italian were made in France.
Renaissance-style palazzos.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 RHODE ISLAND  163

Harbor is the island’s main hub

of activity. Victorian houses,
hotels, and shops line the
streets, and anglers can
charter boats to fish for striped
bass, bluefish, flounder, and
cod. South of the village are
the dramatic 200-ft- (61-m-)
high red clay cliffs of
Mohegan Bluffs, and the
Southeast Lighthouse, which
The breathtaking Cliff Walk, popular with visitors in Newport was once the most powerful in
New England.
Adams State Park, with beaches and a series of tidal salt A favorite with hikers is
Fort Adams, built in 1853, as ponds. The ponds are big lures Rodman’s Hollow Natural Area.
its centerpiece. No longer in for bird-watchers hoping to This glacial depression, well
use as a garrison, the fort is study the egrets, sandpipers, marked with nature trails, is a
surrounded with facilities for and herons that swim and wade refuge for hawks and white-
swimming and other sports. in the salty marshes. Many of tailed deer. On Block Island’s
Each year, Newport’s famous the beaches are free to the northwestern coast is Great
Jazz Festival is held here. public, except for parking fees. Salt Pond, which is completely
Another popular site is the Scarborough State Beach protected from the
3.5-mile- (5.5-km-) long Cliff is excellent for ocean. It is an
Walk, southwest of downtown. bodysurfing and excellent spot for
The trail, along the city’s ragged surfboarding, kayaking and
cliffs, offers some fine views of while the sheltered, fishing. Nearby
the Gilded-Age mansions and cove-protected New Harbor is the
has been designated a National Roger Wheeler island’s prime
Recreation Trail. The Forty Steps, State Beach is a marina and boating
each named for someone lost at favorite for families. center. Clayhead,
sea, lead to the ocean. Easton’s East Matunuck on the island’s
Beach, along Memorial State Beach is Plaque to early English northeastern coast,
Boulevard below the Cliff Walk, popular with pioneers, Settler’s Rock, offers wonderful
has a vintage carousel and is surfers on windy Block Island views of the
popular for surfing. days. The beautiful Atlantic Ocean, and
sandy stretch of Charlestown is the starting point for a nature
P The Breakers Town Beach has a boat ramp trail that goes all the way north
44 Ochre Point Ave. Tel (401) 847- with access to the coastal to Settler’s Rock. A plaque here
1000. Open mid-Mar–mid-Nov: ponds of the Ninigret National honors the 16 Englishmen who
9am–5pm daily. Call for winter hours. Wildlife Refuge. landed here in 1661. The rock is
Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. Farther west along the coast at the edge of Sachem Pond, a
8 every 15 minutes. & 7 ^
is Misquamicut State Beach. favorite for swimming and
∑ newportmansions.org
The largest beach in the state, it kayaking. An 18-mile (29-km)
u Touro Synagogue has gentle surf and an old-time driving tour of Block Island is
85 Touro St. Tel (401) 847-4794. amusement park with rides and a comfortable way to take in
Open call for times. Services: Shabbat many diversions for children. all these sites.
& all Jewish hols. 8 every half-hr. &
=^

+ Fort Adams State Park w Block Island

Harrison Ave. Tel (401) 847-2400. ~ g State Pier, Galilee. Ferries carry
Open sunrise to sunset daily. cars by advance bookings, (401) 783-
&0L
7996. ∑ blockislandferry.com

Lying just 13 miles (21 km)

q South County off the coast, Block Island is a
Beaches great destination for outdoor
Narragansett: ~ n 36 Ocean Rd,
enthusiasts who enjoy such
(401) 783-7121. Charlestown: ~ £ activities as swimming, fishing,
n 4945 Old Post Rd, (401) 364-3878. sailing, bird-watching, canoeing,
and horseback riding. Some 30
Southwest of Newport, miles (48 km) of natural trails
between Narragansett and entice hikers and cyclists to
Watch Hill, are some 100 miles experience the island’s natural The dramatic red clay cliffs at Mohegan
(161 km) of pristine white sand beauty. The village of Old Bluffs, Block Island
164  NEW ENGLAND

Connecticut staircase, and ornate cupola,

it is a superb example of
Although compact enough to drive across in a few hours, Federal architecture. Nearby,
Connecticut has treasures that entice visitors to stay for days. the Center Church has five
Along its magnificent shoreline are beaches, marinas, and the stained-glass windows
remarkable maritime museum at Mystic Seaport. Inland, the designed by the US artist
Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848–
Connecticut River Valley and the Litchfield Hills are dotted 1933). To its south is the
with scenic and historic villages. Hartford, the bustling capital, Wadsworth Atheneum,
and New Haven, home of Yale University, are its main cities. the oldest continuously
operating public art museum
in the country. Its collection
e Hartford overlooks the 40-acre (16-ha) includes Renaissance, Baroque,
Bushnell Park, the creation of and Impressionist art, as well
* 139,000. k @ £ 1 Union Place.
n 1 Constitution Plaza, (888) 288-
Hartford native Frederick Law as works by American artists.
4748. _ Riverfest (Jul). Olmsted (1822–1903), who also West of downtown is the
∑ ctvisit.com laid out New York’s Central Park. 1874 Mark Twain House and
There are 100 varieties of trees, Museum, a Gothic-style
Founded in 1636 by a group of and a 1914 carousel with masterpiece with peaked
English settlers from the 48 hand-carved horses. gables, expansive upper
Massachusetts Bay Colony, The 1796 Old State House, balconies, and towering turrets.
Hartford’s golden age was in designed by Charles Bulfinch Constructed at the height of
the 19th century, when it (see p140), is the country’s Twain’s career, the 19-room
became a flourishing center of oldest capitol building. With home was based on a floor
the insurance industry. It also its grand center hall and plan drawn up by his wife
became a vibrant cultural
center, thanks to resident authors
such as Mark Twain. In recent
years, an ambitious revitalization
program has breathed new life
into the city.
Dominating the cityscape is
the gleaming gold-leaf dome
of the State Capitol, a Victorian-
Gothic building perched on
a hilltop. Many of Hartford’s
attractions are accessible on
foot from here. The Capitol The Connecticut State Capitol, overlooking Bushnell Park

Downtown Hartford
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 CONNECTICUT  165

lovely woods, some 500 prehistoric dinosaur

valleys, lakes, and tracks beneath a geodesic
wildlife offers dome. It also has a display of a
great oppor- life-size model of an 8-ft- (2-m-)
tunities for tall Dilophosaurus.
sports; among Just outside the town of
them canoeing, East Haddam is the bizarre
kayaking, white- and ostentatious Gillette
water rafting, Castle, built in 1919 by the
tubing, fly-fishing, actor William Gillette. This
and hiking. In Fall, 24-room granite mansion is
the brilliant foliage built like a medieval castle,
along the region’s complete with battlements
roads is a sight in and turrets, and is rife with
itself for visitors oddities such as Gillette’s
to the state. home-made trick locks
The Billiard Room, Mark Twain House, Hartford Litchfield’s many and furniture set on wheels
historic houses and tracks.
Olivia. Of special interest are the include the 1784 Tapping Picturesque Old Lyme
library with its ornate wooden Reeve House and Law School, boasts several 18th- and
fireplace mantel; the tranquil the country’s first law school. 19th-century houses built for
Billiard Room where Twain On the outskirts of the town, on sea captains. It is also renowned
wrote some of his best- known Route 202, Mount Tom State for the Florence Griswold
works, including The Adventures Park has trails leading to the Museum, housed in an 1817
of Tom Sawyer; and the Master 1,325-ft (404-m) summit. The mansion. Paintings by some
Bedroom with its beautifully lake is ideal for activities such of America’s leading artists,
carved bed. An informative as scuba diving, swimming, such as Childe Hassam and
visitor center illuminates Twain’s boating, and fishing. Clark Voorhees, adorn the
life and work. walls of this museum, together
Next door is the Harriet with superb works by other
Beecher Stowe Center, where t Connecticut River artists who lived in art patron
the famous author of the anti- Valley Florence Griswold’s house and
slavery novel Uncle Tom’s Cabin painted on its wall panels to
(1852) lived until her death in Windsor: * 27,800. n (860) 701- repay her generosity.
1896. The house is adorned with 9113. Old Lyme: * 6,800.
gingerbread ornamentation P Wethersfield
typical of late 19th-century The Connecticut River Valley is n Greater Hartford Tourism District,
Victorian design, while the dotted with picture-postcard 1 Constitution Plaza, Hartford, (888)
elegance of its interior displays perfect little towns and villages. 288-4748. ∑ ctvisit.com
Harriet’s less well-known talent Windsor, settled in the early P Gillette Castle
as a decorator. 1630s by Pilgrims from 67 River Rd, off Rte 82, Hadlyme.
Plymouth (see p157), has a Tel (860) 526-2336. Open late May–
P Mark Twain House number of historic houses open Columbus Day: 10am–5pm daily. &
and Museum to visitors, such as the 1758 87
351 Farmington Ave. Tel (860) 247- Strong-Howard House, which E Florence Griswold Museum
0998. Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily. has been restored to reflect
Closed Tue (Jan–Feb), public hols. 96 Lyme St, Old Lyme. Tel (860) 434-
life in the 18th century. Nearby 5542. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
& 8 obligatory. 7 1st floor only.
is the Palisado Green, where 1–5pm Sun. & 8 7 ∑ flogris.org
∑ marktwainhouse.org
nervous settlers built a walled
stockade in their 1637 war with
the Pequot.
r Litchfield Wethersfield, settled in
* 8,850. n Litchfield Hills Visitors’ 1634, stands as a primer of
Bureau, PO Box 968, (860) 567-4506. American architecture from
∑ northwestct.com the 18th to the 20th centuries.
Especially worth visiting is the
This picturesque and historic Webb-Deane-Stevens Museum,
town is at the center of the which is a trio of dwellings
Litchfield Hills region in north- that depict the lifestyles of
western Connecticut, which three different 18th-century
many people consider the most Americans – a diplomat, a
scenic part of the New England. wealthy merchant, and a leather
Anchored by the Housatonic tanner. The Dinosaur State The Harpist by Alphonse Jongers at the
River, the bucolic landscape of Park in Rocky Hill preserves Florence Griswold Museum
166  NEW ENGLAND

y New Haven is covered by the Yale University

campus, dotted with Georgian
* 123, 626. ~ n 1008 Chapel St,
and Neo-Gothic buildings, as
(203) 773-9494. ∑ visitnewhaven.
com Yale University: n 149 Elm St,
well as modern structures
(203) 432-2300. 8 7 designed by Eero Saarinen and
_ International Festival of Arts and Philip Johnson. Major landmarks
Ideas (Jun). ∑ yale.edu on the campus are the beautiful
Gothic-style Memorial Quad-
Founded in 1638, New Haven rangle and the Harkness Tower,
is located on the coast, where whose carillon rings out at
three rivers flow into Long intervals through the day.
Island Sound. Although this has Yale’s outstanding museums
helped make it a major manu- are a prime attraction for
facturing center, the city is visitors. The Yale Center for
better known as the home of British Art, whose collection
Yale University, one of the was donated by the philan-
world’s most thropist Paul Mellon
prestigious institutions (1907–99), has the Entrance to the Peabody Museum of
of higher learning. largest collection Natural History, Yale University
Its alumni include of British art outside
no fewer than four the UK and includes centuries. These historical
American presidents, paintings by instruments are still played at
including the Bushes Gainsborough, concerts held here today.
Sr. and Jr, and Bill Hogarth, and Turner. The most popular park in New
Clinton. Yale, founded The treasures of the Haven is the 84-acre (34-ha)
in 1701, has made Beinecke Rare Book Lighthouse Point Park on Long
New Haven a leading and Manuscript Island Sound. It has nature trails,
center for education, Libraries include one a bird sanctuary, as well as an
research, and techno- of the world’s few 1840 lighthouse.
logy, and has enriched remaining Gutenberg
its cultural life as well. Bibles. The Yale E Yale Center for British Art
The main area of Tiffany stained-glass University Art 1080 Chapel St. Tel (203) 432-2800.
the town is the window, First Church of Gallery, reflecting the Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm
16-acre (6-ha) New generosity and taste Sun. Closed public hols. 8 7 =
Christ
Haven Green, of the Yale alumni, E Beinecke Rare Book &
serving as the setting for houses works by artists such as Manuscript Libraries
many of New Haven’s activities Picasso, van Gogh, Manet, and 121 Wall St. Tel (203) 432-2977.
and festivals. Three beautiful Monet, while the Peabody Open 9am–7pm Mon–Thu, 9am–
early 19th-century churches Museum of Natural History 5pm Fri, noon–5pm Sat. Closed Sat in
are located on the Green, is famous for its collection of Aug & public hols.
of which the First Church of dinosaurs. A must for the E Yale University Art Gallery
Christ, with a Tiffany stained- musically inclined is the 1111 Chapel St. Tel (203) 432-0600.
glass window, is regarded as Yale Collection of Musical Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri (Sep–Jun:
a masterpiece of American Instruments. Its stunning 10am–8pm Thu), 11am–5pm Sat &
Georgian style. Much of the exhibits consist of violins and Sun. Closed public hols. 8 7 =
core of downtown New Haven harpsichords dating back ∑ artgallery.yale.edu

Church spires around New Haven Green, the focal point of the town
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 CONNECTICUT  167

glorious fall colors. Many of

the 365 islands are little more
than large boulders, but some
privately owned islands have
small communities. Legend has
it that the privateer Captain
Kidd (1645–1701) hid
plundered treasure on Money
Island while being pursued by
the British fleet.
Coastal Fairfield County,
in the southernmost corner of
the state, has attractions for
The Charles W. Morgan, the last wooden whaling ship, in Mystic Seaport every taste. The shoreline is
dusted with beaches offering a
u Connecticut of the whaling industry – the variety of summer recreation
Coast row of colonnaded Greek-
Revival mansions on Whale
opportunities, while naturalists
are drawn to its nature
Mystic: * 2,600. n 27 Greenmanville Oil Row attest to the affluence preserves and zoo. The area
Ave, (860) 536-8822. Madison: * of that era. also has numerous art galleries
16,000. n 1 Constitution Plaza, The resort town of Madison, and museums.
Hartford, (888) 288-4748. Stamford:
full of antique stores and Bridgeport is home to the
Fairfield County. * 117,083.
∑ visitwesternct.com
boutiques, also has several Beardsley Zoo, the Barnum
historic homes open for Museum, and the Discovery
Connecticut’s magnificent viewing. Among the fascinating Museum. The Barnum Museum
105-mile- (170-km-) long artifacts on display at the is currently closed for repairs.
shoreline, is scalloped by coves, Deacon John Grave House is The charming town of
inlets, and harbors, dotted with the family bookkeeping ledger, Westport on the banks of the
beaches, marinas, and state with entries from 1678 to 1895. Saugatuck River has the
parks. Historic towns and Also in Madison is Hammonasset Sherwood Island State Park.
villages also lie along the coast. Beach State Park, the largest Norwalk has historic buildings,
One of the most popular shoreline park in the state, with shops, and cafés along its
tourist destinations along the a 2-mile- (3-km-) long beach waterfront, as well as a Maritime
Connecticut Coast is Mystic that attracts swimmers, sailors, Aquarium. New Canaan, set in a
Seaport, a re-created 18th- sunbathers, and divers. landscape of woods, streams,
and 19th-century seafaring Neighboring Guilford has the and rolling fields, is spectacular
village, where nearly every Henry Whitfield House, a three- in fall. Stamford has a unique
home sports a nautical motif. story granite home. Built in First Presbyterian Church,
Mystic’s main attraction is its 1640, this historic house served shaped like a fish, and a lively
preservation shipyard and its as both a residence for Puritan downtown area.
fleet of antique ships, including minister Whitfield and his family, Greenwich, blessed with a
the restored whaling ship and also as a fort to protect the stunning coastline, is home to
Charles W. Morgan, built in community against Native an art colony, the Bush-Holley
1841. Another highlight is the Americans attacking. The house Historic Site. A 44-mile (71-km)
Mystic River Scale Model, with is the oldest stone dwelling of drive through Fairfield County
more than 250 detailed its kind in New England. gives a good overview of the
buildings. The impressive From Guilford’s Stony Creek Connecticut coast.
Mystic Aquarium has a huge Dock, travelers can cruise to the
gallery of penguins, stingrays, Thimble Islands aboard tour E Mystic Seaport
sharks, and also has the largest boats that operate in the area, 75 Greenmanville Ave (Rte 7).
outdoor exhibit of beluga watching seals or taking in the Tel (860) 572-0711. Ships and exhibits:
whales in the country. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm; Nov–Mar:
A short distance west of call for hours. Closed Dec 24 & 25. &
∑ mysticseaport.org
Mystic Seaport is New London.
This historic town was torched P Deacon John Grave House
by British forces during the Madison, 581 Boston Post Rd.
American Revolution, but, Tel (203) 245-4798. Open call to
remarkably, many of the houses arrange tour. & 8
survived. Among them is the O Hammonasset Beach
Joshua Hempsted House, built State Park
in 1678, which is insulated with I-95, exit 62. Park: Tel (203) 245-2785.
seaweed. By the 19th century Open 8am–dusk daily. & 8 7
New London had recovered The Thimbles, home to seals, whales, and Campground reservations: Tel (877)
to become a prosperous center colorful legends 668-2267.
Federal-style rowhouses in the historic Beacon Hill neighborhood, Boston
170  NEW ENGLAND

Vermont attraction for visitors is the

Bennington Museum and
Vermont’s varied attractions are scattered throughout Grandma Moses Gallery. Apart
the state. Historic villages and the natural splendors of the from an impressive collection
Green Mountain National Forest grace the south, while in of Americana, the museum has
a gallery devoted to folk artist
the northwest Lake Champlain provides a backdrop for the Anna Mary “Grandma” Moses,
lively college town of Burlington. Famous ski resorts such as who lived in the Bennington
Stowe are perched amid the mountains that run the length of area. A farmer’s wife with no
the state. In fall, Vermont’s display of leaf colors is spectacular. formal art training, Grandma
Moses (1860–1961) started
painting landscapes as a
hobby when she was in her
mid-seventies. “Discovered” by
critics in 1940, her distinctive
primitive paintings soon won
international renown.

E Bennington Museum &

Grandma Moses Gallery
75 Main St. Tel (802) 447-1571.
Open 10am–5pm Thu–Tue (daily Jun–
Oct). Closed Jan, Thanksgiving,
Woodward Reservoir in the Green Mountain National Forest Dec 25. & 7 = ∑ bennington
museum.org

i Green Mountain In the southwest corner of the

Green Mountain National Forest
National Forest is Bennington, Vermont’s third-
o Manchester
n Forest Supervisor, Green Mountain largest city. An important manu- * 3,860. ~ @ n 39 Bonnet St,
National Forest, 231 N Main St, Rutland. facturing center, Bennington is (802) 362-2100.
Tel (802) 747-6700. ∑ fs.usda.gov/ also home to the small but
greenmountain prestigious Bennington College. This scenic town, ringed
Three 19th-century wooden by mountains, is a favorite
This huge spine of greenery and covered bridges (just off Route destination for both shoppers
mountains runs for 550 sq miles 67) herald the approach to the and skiers. Clusters of designer
(1,400 sq km) – almost the town, which was established in stores and factory outlets
entire length of Vermont – 1749. A few decades later, Ethan scattered around the villages
along two-thirds of the Green Allen arrived on the scene to of Manchester offer branded
Mountain Range. The mountains, lead the Green Mountain Boys, goods at significant discounts.
many of them over 4,000 ft a citizen’s militia that scored Visitors also enjoy following
(1,200 m) high, have some of several decisive victories against the Equinox Skyline Drive, with
the best ski centers in the US, British forces during the its panoramic views from the
including Sugarbush and Revolutionary War. crest of Mount Equinox.
Mount Snow. The town’s most prominent The town has two major
The National Forest is divided landmark is the 306-ft- (93-m-) ski areas – Stratton, with more
into northern and southern high Bennington Battle than 90 trails and a hillside
sectors, and encompasses Monument, a granite obelisk ski village with shops and
six wilderness areas, many commemorating a 1777 restaurants, and Bromley, a
of them with no roads, battle, when Colonial forces busy, family-oriented ski area.
electricity, or clearly marked defeated the British. The Manchester has been a
trails. Less primitive areas monument looms over vacation resort since the 19th
of the forest, however, the Old Bennington Historic century, and its gracious
have picnic sites, camping District, which has a village mansions evoke that era. One
grounds, and more than green ringed by Federal- of the most elegant is Hildene,
500 miles (805 km) of style brick buildings. The a 24-room Georgian manor built
hiking paths, including 1806 First Congregational by Robert Todd Lincoln, son of
the famous Long and Church is particularly striking, President Abraham Lincoln.
Appalachian Trails. The with its vaulted plaster and Among its notable features are
area’s lakes, rivers, and wood ceilings. Next to the a 1,000-pipe Aeolian organ.
reservoirs offer excellent church is the Old Burying
boating and fishing, and Ground where one of P Hildene
there are designated America’s most loved Rte 7A. Tel (802) 362-1788.
paths for horseback The 1891 Bennington poets, Robert Frost, is Open 9:30am–4:30pm daily. &
riders as well as bikers. Battle Monument buried. A major 8 every 30 mins. 7 ∑ hildene.org

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 VERMONT  171

p Killington
* 1,000. ~ n Rte 4, West
Killington, (802) 422-3333, (800) 621-
6867.

Sporty types who like outdoor

adventure and a lively social life
head for this year-round resort.
Killington operates the largest
ski center in the eastern United
States, with 212 runs for alpine
skiing and snowboarding
spread across seven peaks,
including nearby Pico Mountain. The Ticonderoga, at Shelburne Museum
It also has cross-country ski
areas at Mountain Top Inn and and visitors can attend s Shelburne
Mountain Meadows. seasonal events such as apple-
Killington itself is the second cider pressing in the fall and Museum & Farms
highest peak in Vermont, at plowing competitions in the Rte 7, 7 miles (11 km) S of Burlington.
4,240 ft (1,295 m). The ski season spring. The museum’s exhibits Tel (802) 985-3346. Open mid-May–
here lasts eight months, longer include vintage farm late Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–
than anywhere else in Vermont. implements, butter churns, 5pm Sun (Pizzagalli Center and Webb
In summer as well as fall, a and ice cutters. Gallery open year-round). Closed late
gondola ferries visitors up to the Nearby Quechee is home to Oct–May, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. &
7 0 - = ∑ shelburne
peaks from where, on clear day, the Vermont Institute of
museum.org
there are views of five states and Natural Science, a reserve
distant Canada. where injured birds of prey are
cared for until they can be Established in 1947 by collector
returned to the wild. Electra Webb, Shelburne
a Woodstock Museum’s 39 exhibition
* 1,000. ~ @ n Mechanic St, E Billings Farm & Museum buildings and their contents
(802) 432-1100, (888) 496-6378. River Rd. Tel (802) 457-2355. constitute one of America’s
∑ woodstockvt.com Open May–Oct: 10am–5pm daily. finest museums. Its eclectic
Call for winter hours. & 7 0 collection, which celebrates
Even in Vermont, where O Vermont Institute of three centuries of American
historic, picturesque villages Natural Science ingenuity, includes folk art,
are commonplace, Woodstock Woodstock Rd, Quechee. Tel (802) antique tools, and circus
stands out. Founded in 1761, 359-5000. Open mid-Apr–Oct: 10am– memorabilia, along with scrim-
the town is an enclave of 5pm daily; Nov–Apr: call for hours. & shaw, duck decoys, and paint-
renovated brick and clapboard 8 7 ∑ vinsweb.org ings by artists such as Winslow
Georgian houses, many of them Homer and Grandma Moses.
beautifully restored, thanks to Environs Among the relocated or
the generosity of philanthropists Six miles (10 km) east of town replicated historic buildings on
such as the Rockefeller family, is the stunningly beautiful view are a horseshoe-shaped
and the railroad magnate Quechee Gorge. The best Circus Building, housing a 500-ft-
Frederick Billings (1823–90), view of the chasm is on Route 4, (152-m-) long miniature circus
who also financed the planting which crosses the gorge via a parade, and an 1890 Railroad
of 10,000 trees here. Billings steel bridge. A short hiking trail Station. Visitors can also explore
Farm and Museum is still a leads from the parking lot on an 1871 Lake Champlain
working entity. The 1890 the east side to the lighthouse and the Ticonderoga,
farmhouse has been restored, Ottauquechee River below. a former Lake Champlain steam-
ship. The Pizzagalli Center for Art
and Education is open all year
for art workshops, lectures,
film screenings, and musical
performances.
Shelburne is home to a
historic 2-sq-mile (6-sq-km)
estate, Shelburne Farms, with its
beautiful green rolling pastures
and woodlands. There are tours
of the dairy, and there are also
special areas where children can
One of the many beautiful homes in the village of Woodstock pet and play with the animals.
172  NEW ENGLAND

converted into a pedestrian crafts. Visitors can enjoy a coffee

mall, complete with trendy while browsing in the bookshop.
boutiques, patio restaurants,
and crafts shops. Many of them E Fleming Museum of Art
are housed in Queen Anne-style 61 Colchester Ave. Tel (802) 656-0750.
buildings from the late 1800s. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Fri (to 7pm
The historical attractions in this Wed), noon–4pm Sat & Sun.
neighborhood include the 1861 Closed mid-Dec–mid-Jan &
First Unitarian Church, the mid-Mar. & 7 - =
∑ uvm.edu/~fleming
oldest house of worship in
Burlington, and the City Hall,
which marks the southern
boundary of the marketplace. f Lake Champlain
This graceful building, built of
Vermont–New York border from
local brick, marble, and granite, Whitehall to Alburg. k @ n 60
dates to 1928. The City Hall Park Main St, Burlington, (802) 863-3489,
is a popular outdoor concert (877) 686-5253.
venue, and in summer street
performers and musicians add Sometimes called the sixth
First Unitarian Church, Burlington color and action to the area. Great Lake because of its size,
On the waterfront is Battery Lake Champlain is 120 miles
d Burlington Park, the site of a battle (190 km) long, 12 miles (19 km)
between US soldiers and the wide, and has 500 miles (800 km)
* 39,000. k @ 1200 Airport Dr.
g King St Dock. n Suite 100, 60
British Royal Navy in 1813. of shoreline. Said to be the
Main St, (802) 863-3489, (877) 686- Today, the park is a peaceful home of “Champ,” a water
5253. _ Discover Jazz Festival (Jun). place, from where there are serpent that could be a
∑ vermont.org lovely views of Burlington Bay distant cousin of the Loch
and the backdrop of the Ness Monster, the lake is
Vermont’s largest city, Burlington Adirondack Mountains on the sprinkled with about 70
is one of the most popular tourist other side of Lake Champlain. islands. At the northern end
destinations in the state. Half of South of the park is the of the lake is Isle La Motte,
the population of this lively town Burlington Boat House; here which has a statue of
is made up of students from a three-decker cruise ship, Samuel de Champlain,
the University of Vermont and Spirit of Ethan Allen III, takes the French explorer who
the city’s four colleges. Rich in visitors on a 90-minute trip, discovered and explored
interesting shops and restaurants which gives a good historical much of the surrounding
as well as grand old mansions overview, as the captain region. On nearby Grand
and historic landmarks, narrates tales of the Isle is Vermont’s oldest log
Burlington is also Vermont’s Revolutionary War. cabin (1783). The lake
center of commerce and The Fleming Museum of has its western shore in
industry. It is scenically located Art, on the campus of the New York State, and
on the shores of Lake Champlain. University of Vermont, is seasonal hour-long
Statue in
The center of Burlington is on a hillside overlooking ferry rides run between
Burlington’s
compact and easy to explore the city. The artifacts in this Burlington and Port
Battery Park
on foot. It includes the historic elegant 1931 Colonial- Kent, New York.
district, at the core of which is Revival building range from Some of Lake Champlain’s
the four-block section known as ancient Mesopotamian objects treasures are underwater,
the Church Street Marketplace. to European paintings and preserved in a marine park
The neighborhood has been sculptures and Native American where scuba divers can explore

Sailing and boating, popular on beautiful Lake Champlain

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 VERMONT  173

shipwrecks resting on sandbars

and at the bottom of this clear-
water lake.
The Lake Champlain Mari­
time Museum at Basin Harbor
gives a complete over view
of the region’s marine history
through fascinating displays
of ship models, old divers’ suits,
and photographs of vintage
Lake Champlain steamers.

E Lake Champlain Maritime

Museum
4472 Basin Harbor Rd, Vergennes.
Tel (802) 475-2022. Open late May– The Austrian-style Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe
mid-Oct: 10am–5pm. & 7
∑ lcmm.org
inspiration behind the 1965 their knowledge into what
movie The Sound of Music. became an enormously
After their daring escape from successful ice-cream franchise.
g Stowe Austria during World War II, No longer privately owned,
* 3,500. ~ n 51 Main St, (802) they chose Stowe as their new the factory uses the richest
253-7321, (877) 467-8693. home. Their Trapp Family dairy products to produce their
∑ gostowe.com Lodge is set in a 4-sq-mile ice cream and frozen yogurt.
(11-sq-km) estate. This giant The Ben & Jerry trademark is
This mountain-ringed village wooden chalet is now one of the black and white Holstein
is the skiing capital of New the most popular hotels in the cow, which embellishes every-
England and draws hordes area (see p186). thing on sale in the gift shop.
of visitors in winter. Mountain Tours of the factory start
Road begins in the village and every 15 minutes and run for
is lined with chalets, motels, h Ben & Jerry’s Ice 30 minutes. Visitors learn all
restaurants, and pubs; it leads to
the area’s highest peak, Mount
Cream Factory there is to know about making
ice cream. They are given a
Mansfield (4,393 ft/1,339 m). Rte 100, Waterbury. Tel (866) BJTOURS. bird’s-eye view of the factory
In summer, too, there are Open Jul–mid-Aug: 9am–9pm daily; floor, and at the end of the tour
plenty of outdoor activities mid-Aug–Oct: 9am–7pm daily; Nov– they get a chance to sample
Jun: 10am–6pm daily. & 7 0 = the products and sometimes
on offer. Visitors can hike, rock-
climb, fish, canoe, bike, or taste new flavors.
inline-skate along the paved, Although Ben Cohen and
meandering 5.5-mile (8.5-km) Jerry Greenfield hail from
Stowe Recreational Path, Long Island, New York, they
which winds from the have done more than any other
village church across the West “flatlanders” to put Vermont’s
Branch River, then through dairy industry on the map.
green woodlands. In 1978, these childhood
Stowe’s other claim to fame friends paid $5 for a correspon-
is as the home of the musical dence course on making ice Ben & Jerry’s bus, gaily decorated with
Von Trapp family, who were the cream, and soon parlayed dairy cows

Skiing in New England

In New England, top-notch slopes and cross-country ski trails are never
far away. The best skiing is concentrated in the three northern states.
Vermont has the most high-quality peaks, and the world-famous resorts
of Killington and Stowe. Two great trails in Vermont for skiers and
snowshoers are the Catamount Trail and the Trapp Family Lodge Ski
Center. New Hampshire’s White Mountains have some of the best
downhill, alpine, and cross-country ski trails in the Northeast. In Maine,
Sugarloaf/USA and Sunday River are considered the best hills in the
state. Downhill ski trails are rated by a standard code: Easier = green circle;
more difficult = blue square; most difficult = black diamond; and
expert = double diamond. Equipment, and lessons for all levels are
A skilift in Vermont, one of the best available at all the resorts.
skiing areas of the US
174  NEW ENGLAND

New Hampshire wind ever recorded on earth:

230 mph (370 km/h). On clear
New Hampshire’s natural beauty is evident all over the state. days there are panoramic
The northern part is rippled by the tall peaks of the White views from the top. There are
Mountain Range and the spectacular chasm of Franconia Notch. hiking trails and an auto road
to the summit, but the most
Ponds and lakes, such as the pristine Lake Winnipesaukee, dot exciting way up is by the Mount
central New Hampshire. The main cities – historic Concord and Washington Cog Railway.
lively Portsmouth, with its scenic Atlantic coastline – nestle This steam-powered train
amid the tranquil farmlands of the south. chugs the 3.5-mile (5.6-km)
route to the top along a heart-
stoppingly steep track. Some
of the best alpine skiing is
in Tuckerman Ravine on
Mount Washington.

k Franconia Notch
I-93, Franconia Notch Pkwy. n (603)
823-8800. Park: Open daily. Flume
Gorge Visitor Center: Tel (603) 745-
8391. Open May–Oct: 9am–5pm daily.
& for Flume Gorge, Visitor Center, &
The striking exterior of the Omni Mount Washington Hotel campgrounds. ∑ nh.stateparks.org

j Bretton Woods Minister Winston Churchill, and This spectacular mountain

* 550. k n (800) 346-3687. 8 three US presidents. Surrounded pass, carved between the
∑ visitwhitemountains.com by 27 sq miles (70 sq km) of Kinsman and Franconia ranges,
parkland, its facilities include and designated as the Franconia
This tiny enclave in the Mount a 27-hole golf course. Nearby, Notch State Park, has some of
Washington Valley has an unusual Bretton Woods ski area offers the state’s most stunning
claim to fame. In 1944, with alpine skiing and 62 miles natural wonders. Foremost
the need for currency stability (100 km) of cross-country trails. among them was the Old Man
after the economic upheavals of the Mountain, a rocky
of World War II, it hosted the } Omni Mount Washington outcrop on the side of a cliff
United Nations conference that Hotel that resembled a man’s profile
led to the establishment of Rte 302, Bretton Woods. Tel (603) 278- until the nose and forehead
the International Monetary 1000, (800) 314-1752. 7 = crashed down in May 2003.
Fund and, later, the World Bank. Other attractions compensate
The setting for this historic Environs for the loss. The trout-filled
meeting was the magnificent Dominating the Mount Profile Lake reflects the brilliant
Omni Mount Washington Washington Valley is the 6,288-ft colors of fall foliage on the
Hotel (see p186). Opened in (1,917-m) peak of Mount slopes of Cannon Mountain.
1902, the hotel’s white exterior Washington, the highest in the A boardwalk and stairways
and crimson roof stand out in northeastern United States. lead visitors through the Flume
contrast to Mount Washington, The peak has the dubious distinc- Gorge, a narrow, chasm whose
looming behind it. The hotel has tion of having the worst weather granite walls tower more
entertained several distinguished in the world, and in April 1934 than 90 ft (27 m) above the
guests, including the British Prime clocked the second-highest board-walk, while an aerial

Fall Foliage in New England

Thousands of visitors head for New England in the fall, to gaze in
wonder at the annual changing of leaf colors. The color change is not
just a capricious act of Nature. As daylight hours diminish, the leaves of
deciduous trees stop producing the green pigment chlorophyll, and
other pigments hidden behind the chlorophyll’s color now burst into
view. More pigments are produced by sugars that remain trapped in the
leaves. The result is a riotous display of shades of yellow, orange,
crimson, and maroon. The peak period for “leaf-peeping” varies from
early October in northern New England to late October in the southern
section, but this can differ, depending on the weather (see Fall Foliage
Hotlines, p183 and www.yankeemagazine.com). Glorious colors lighting up the
New England landscape in fall

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 NEW HAMPSHIRE  175

foliage colors transform the premier ski resorts. In summer, it

rugged countryside into a offers activities such as nature
palette of flaming red maples, walks, tours of caves, mountain
golden birch, and maroon biking, and horseback riding.
northern red oaks, interspersed
with evergreens. } Loon Mountain
Another popular route is the E of I-93, near Lincoln. Tel (603) 745-
Kancamagus Highway, touted 8111, (800) 229-5666. & 7 0
by many as the most beautiful
road in New England. This z Lake
34-mile (55-km) road, which
runs through the White Winnipesaukee
Narrow Flume Gorge in Franconia Notch Mountain National Forest n Lakes Region Association, (800)
State Park between Lincoln and Conway, 605-2537. ∑ lakesregion.org
offers exceptional vistas as it
tramway speeds passengers climbs 3,000 ft (914 m) through With a shoreline that meanders
to the 4,180-ft (1,254-m) summit the Kancamagus Pass. The for 240 miles (386 km), and a
of Cannon Mountain in just road descends into the Saco surface area of 72 sq miles
8 minutes. Valley and joins up with the (187 sq km), this stunning lake
Robert Frost (1874–1963), trout-filled Swift River. There is has New Hampshire’s largest
one of America’s best-loved easy access for fishermen from stretch of waterfront. Ringed by
poets, settled in the Franconia the highway to the river, and mountains and scattered with
Notch region in 1915. The Frost there are campgrounds and 274 islands, Lake Winnispesaukee
Place Museum includes a half- picnic areas along the entire has sheltered bays, harbors,
mile nature trail that has plaques length of the highway. Well- and resort towns around its
displaying the poems written by marked trails allow drivers to shores. The largest and
Frost during the years he lived stretch their legs amid the prettiest of these is Wolfeboro.
in Franconia. beautiful scenery – a popular Leaving from Weirs Beach, the
one is the short loop that leads MS Mount Washington offers
to the lovely Sabbaday Falls. the best scenic cruise in all
l White Mountain
New England. To its north is
National Forest g Kancamagus Hwy upscale Meredith, with lovely
n 71 White Mountain Dr, Campton
Rte 112 between Lincoln & Conway. lakeside homes.
n Saco District Ranger Station, 33 North of Meredith is pristine
(603) 536-6100. Camping: Tel (877)
Kancamagus Hwy, (603) 447-5448. Squam Lake, ideal for boating
444-6777. Call for availability &
reservations. & 7 and fishing, where the movie
Environs On Golden Pond (1981) was
New Hampshire’s most beautiful Close to the White Mountains is filmed. The town of Center
wilderness area, the White the Lincoln/Woodstock region, Sandwich is on Winnipesaukee’s
Mountain National Forest, sprawls whose main attraction is Clark’s north shore. Surrounded by
over 1,203 sq miles (3,116 sq km). Trading Post. This curious woodland, it is a favorite
The area has an abundance of combination of circus acts, destination during fall foliage
wildlife, including a large amusement park rides, and season. On the eastern shore,
population of moose, which can museums makes a welcome the Castle in the Clouds
often be seen from the road. change for children after a leaf- mansion crowns the crest of
Outdoor activities offered in peeping drive. Lincoln is a base a hill that rises some 750 ft
this region range from bird- camp for both backwoods (229 m) above the lake. A
watching and rock climbing adventurers and stick-to-the- 70-mile (113-km) drive around
to skiing and kayaking. But road sightseers. Nearby Loon Lake Winnipesaukee takes in
even less sporty travelers will Mountain is one of the state’s all these sights.
revel in the spectacular scenery
visible from their car – valleys
flanked by tall pine forests,
waterfalls that tumble over
rocky outcrops, and more
than 20 summits that soar
to over 4,000 ft (1,200 m).
An especially scenic stretch of
road is the 100-mile- (161-km-)
long White Mountains Trail
that loops across Mount
Washington Valley through
Crawford Notch and Franconia
Notch. In autumn, brilliant fall The beautiful scenery to be found in White Mountain National Forest
176  NEW ENGLAND

x Canterbury to escape religious persecution

Shaker Village in Britain in the mid-18th century.
Their theology of ecstatic
288 Shaker Rd, Canterbury. Tel (603) worship was balanced by their
783-9511. Open late May–Oct: strict practice of celibacy and
10am–5pm daily; call for winter hours. this eventually led to their
& 8 0 - = ∑ shakers.org
demise. The 690-acre (280-ha)
site, which has several buildings
Founded in 1792, this village open to visitors, is punctuated
was occupied by Shakers for by millponds, nature trails, and
200 years. The Shakers were a traditional gardens. Skilled
sect that broke away from the artisans can be seen re-creating
Quakers and fled to America Shaker crafts, known for
their simple lines and
The belfry contains beautiful workmanship. Picturesque buildings at Canterbury
a bell made by the Shaker Village
Revolutionary War
hero Paul Revere. Dormer rooms were used
for summer sleeping and
as clothes cupboards.

Hands to Work
Exhibition displays old
tools, workbenches, and
other artifacts that evoke the
Shaker philosophy of hard
work and efficiency.

The Dining Room could

hold as many as 60 Shakers Shaker Design explores how Shaker
per sitting. design was both innovative
and ensured uniformity across all
Shaker communities.

c Concord exploration exhibits in

* 37,500. ~ @ n 49 S Main St, the planetarium also include
(603) 224-2508. multimedia shows such as
“Destination Mars.”
New Hampshire’s capital is a
quiet little town, dominated by E McAuliffe-Shepard
its impressive State House. Discovery Center
Built in 1819 from granite and 2 Institute Dr. Tel (603) 271-7827.
marble, it is one of the oldest Open mid-Jun–early Sep: 10:30am– The Currier Museum of Art in Manchester
state houses in America. 4pm daily; call for winter hours. &
7 = ∑ starhop.com
Another landmark is the giant Manchester is famous as
glass pyramid of the McAuliffe- the home of New Hampshire’s
Shepard Discovery Center. premier art museum, the
A Concord schoolteacher, v Manchester Currier Museum of Art.
McAuliffe (1948–86) was * 105,250. ~ @ n 54 Hanover St, The gallery opened a major
tragically killed when the (603) 666-6600. 8 extension in 2008 to better
Challenger Space Shuttle display its collection of works
(see p302), launched by NASA Once a major center of the by such European masters as
on January 28, 1986, exploded textile industry, with its mills Claude Monet and Henri
and crashed 73 seconds after powered by waterpower from Matisse, as well as works of
liftoff. The astronomy and space the Merrimack River, today 20th-century American painters
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 NEW HAMPSHIRE  177

Portsmouth’s most popular

attraction is Strawbery Banke,
a 10-acre (4-ha) site near the
water front located at the very
spot at which Portsmouth was
founded. This outdoor museum
contains more than 40 buildings
that depict life from 1695 to 1954.
Many buildings are set amid
gardens cultivated according
to their eras, from early pioneer
Portsmouth’s Market Street, a favorite with tourists herb gardens to formal Victorian
flowerbeds. The houses open
such as Andrew Wyeth (1917– boutiques and restaurants, to the public are furnished in
2009) and Georgia O’Keeffe are in the downtown core, period style and contain
(1887–1986). Also part of the especially along Market Street. interesting collections of
museum is the Zimmerman Historic houses and gardens decorative arts and ceramics.
House. The single-story home can also be found along the The Jones House, a 1790
with its elegant exterior was Portsmouth Harbor Trail, structure, has activities for
built in 1950 by the pioneering a walking tour of the Historic children. The elegant 1760s
American architect Frank Lloyd District. Especially worth Chase House is furnished with
Wright. He also designed the visiting is the elegant 1763 sumptuous pieces from several
furniture now displayed within Moffatt-Ladd House on Market periods, while the Sherburne
the house. Street, one of the earliest House, built in 1695, now serves
The only indoor mall in examples of the Federal style as an exhibit on 17th-century
the state is the Mall of New of architecture. The Wentworth- house design and construction.
Hampshire in Manchester. Gardner House on Mechanic In the Dinsmore Shop, built in
Street, is regarded as one of the 1800, visitors can watch a cooper
E Currier Museum of Art finest examples of Georgian making barrels and casks.
150 Ash St. Tel (603) 669-6144. architecture in the country. Strawbery Banke also has the
Open 11am–5pm Mon, Wed–Fri & Both houses have beautiful Colonial Revival Aldrich Garden,
Sun, 10am–5pm Sat. & 8 7 = interiors and are open to planted with flowers mentioned
- ∑ currier.org visitors in summer and fall. in the poetry of Portsmouth
A popular destination in native Thomas Bailey Aldrich.
summer is Water Country, which On Sundays from June through
b Portsmouth has a huge wave pool, a pirate October an open market is held
ship, and a man-made lagoon. on Puddle Dock.
* 26,000. k @ 10 Ladd St. n 500
Interactive exhibits are the
Market St or Market Sq, (603) 610-5510.
( mid-May–Oct: 8:30am–1pm daily. highlight of the Children’s E Children’s Museum of
Museum of New Hampshire, New Hampshire
_ Market Square Day (Jun), Prescott
where children can interact 6 Washington St, Dover. Tel (603) 742-
Park Arts Festival (Jul–Aug daily).
with a sound sculpture or 2002. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat (also
∑ goportsmouthnh.com
command a submarine. Visitors Mon in summer), noon–5pm Sun. &
7 ∑ childrens-museum.org
Girded by the Piscataqua River can explore the real thing at
and North and South Mill ponds, Albacore Park where a sleek E Strawbery Banke
Portsmouth is a historic town, submarine, the USS Albacore, is Marcy St. Tel (603) 433-1100.
compact enough to be explored on display. When it was built in Open check for hours. & 7 limited
on foot. Established in 1623, 1953, it was the fastest access to some buildings. 0 - =
it became a prosperous hub underwater vessel of its kind. ∑ strawberybanke.org
of maritime commerce by the
18th century. It was also a
hotbed of revolutionary fervor,
and the place where the
Colonial naval hero John Paul
Jones (1747–92) took command
of the warship Ranger. During
the American Revolution,
Jones led several raids along
the British coast, for which he
was awarded a gold medal
by Congress.
A number of Portsmouth’s
historic buildings, many of which
have been turned into Inside lavishly furnished Chase House, Strawbery Banke, in Portsmouth
178  NEW ENGLAND

Maine plus dressing up and crafts. The

Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad
The largest state in New England, Maine is truly the Great Co. & Museum displays vintage
Outdoors. Its most popular attractions are found along the locomotives and offers scenic
spectacular coastline, beginning in the southeast with its trips along the waterfront.
largest and liveliest city, Portland, and the resort towns of Several of Portland’s fine
historic houses are open to
the Kennebunks. Farther north, yachts and windjammers visitors. They include the
ply the waters of Penobscot Bay, while Acadia National Wadsworth-Longfellow
Park stands as Maine’s coastal jewel. World-class skiing, House (1785), where poet
hiking, and mountain-biking opportunities are found Henry Wadsworth
inland, at Bethel and Sugarloaf. Longfellow grew up; and
the Victoria Mansion with
its painted trompe l’oeil
n Portland restored neighborhood’s walls. Portland’s signature
* 65,000. k @ 950 Congress St & narrow streets are filled landmark is the Portland
100 Thompson’s Point Rd. with shops, restaurants, Head Light at Fort Williams
g Commercial & Franklin Sts. and art galleries. Domi­ Park. First illuminated in
n 14 Ocean Gateway Pier, (207) nating the area is the 1791, the lighthouse is
772­5800. ( Wed & Sat. _ Old Port former United States surrounded by beach
Festival (Jun 4), Victorian Holiday (Nov Custom House, with its Children’s and picnic areas, and
24–Dec 23). ∑ visitportland.com gilded ceilings, marble Museum the keeper’s house is
This historic city has a beautiful staircases, and chandeliers. banner now a museum.
location on the crest of a It was built after the Civil War
peninsula, with expansive views (1861–65). From the docks, ships E Portland Museum
of Casco Bay and the Calendar offer cruises to the Calendar of Art
Islands. Once a flourishing port, Islands, harbor tours, and deep­ 7 Congress Sq. Tel (207) 775­6148.
Portland was devastated by no sea fishing trips. Open late May–mid­Oct: 11am–6pm
fewer than four major fires, the West of the Old Port, the Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun (to 8pm Thu &
last one in 1866. Nevertheless, Portland Museum of Art, Fri); mid­Oct–late May: 11am–6pm
Wed, Sat & Sun (to 8pm Thu & Fri).
the city still has a number of displays works by the area’s
& 7 ∑ portlandmuseum.org
sturdy stone Victorian buildings. most famous artist, Winslow
The West End has fine Homer (1836–1910), as well as E Children’s Museum and
mansions and a splendid by European masters such Theatre of Maine
promenade overlooking the as Gauguin and Picasso. The 142 Free St. Tel (207) 828­1234.
water. Portland’s liveliest area, Children‘s Museum and Open year­round: 10am–5pm
however, is around the Old Theatre of Maine has three Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
&= ∑ kitetails.org
Port, near the harbor. This floors of interactive exhibits,

Downtown Portland
FR
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For key to symbols see back flap

 MAINE  179

m The Kennebunks
k n 16 Water St, Kennebunk,
(207) 967-0857. ∑ visitthe
kennebunks.com

First a thriving shipbuilding

center and port, then a
summer retreat for the rich,
the Kennebunks are made
up of two villages, Kennebunk
and Kennebunkport.
Kennebunkport’s historic
village is graced by several
Federal and Greek-Revival Boats on the waters of Penobscot Bay’s Stonington village, Deer Isle
structures, and the striking 1824
South Congregational Church, , Penobscot Bay A short distance from the
with its soaring white steeple. village is Camden Hills State
g Rockland: n 1 Park Dr, (207) 596-
History of a different sort can be Park, which offers breathtaking
0376. Camden: n 2 Public Landing,
found at the Seashore Trolley views of the bay from the
(207) 236-4404. Searsport: n Main &
Museum, where some 200
Steamboat, (207) 548-6510. Castine:
summit of Mount Battie.
antique streetcars are housed, n Emerson Hall, Court St, (207) 326- Standing on this point, the
including one called “Desire.” 4502. Deer Isle: n Rte 15 at poet Edna St. Vincent Millay
Tours of the countryside are Eggemoggin Rd, (207) 348-6124. (1892–1950) was inspired to
offered on one of the restored write her first volume of poetry.
trolleys. The scenic drive along Penobscot Bay is picture-book Nearby Searsport is regarded
Route 9 offers views of surf Maine, with hills sloping down as the antiques capital of
along rocky Cape Arundel. into the ocean, wave-pounded Maine and has large and busy
At Cape Porpoise, travelers can cliffs, sheltered harbors bobbing flea markets on weekends in
sample lobster pulled fresh with boats, and lobster traps the summer.
from the Atlantic. Kennebunk is piled on the docks. Penobscot The more remote eastern
famous for its beaches, notably Bay is also famous for its islands, shore leads to serene, perfectly
Kennebunk Beach, and for one which can be visited on boat preserved villages such as
of the most romantic houses tours from the mainland. Castine and Blue Hill. In Castine
in New England, the 1826 Penobscot Bay’s commercial is the historic Fort George, built
Wedding Cake House. center is the fishing town of by the British in 1799, and
According to local lore, George Rockland, whose biggest event witness to the American Navy’s
Bourne was unexpectedly called is the lobster festival on the first worst defeat during the
to sea before his marriage. full weekend of August. A prime Revolutionary War. Blue Hill is
Although a very hastily attraction is the Farnsworth Art a living postcard, surrounded
arranged wedding took place, Museum, displaying the works by fields of blueberries, and
there was no time to bake the of leading American painters with many of its clapboard
traditional wedding cake. So the such as Edward Hopper and buildings listed on the National
shipbuilder vowed to his bride Andrew Wyeth. Historic Register.
that on his return he would A favorite destination for Deer Isle, reached from the
remodel their home to look tourists is Camden, with its mainland via a graceful
like a wedding cake. Today spired churches, elegant homes, suspension bridge, is actually a
the ornate latticework offers and shops along the waterfront. series of small islands linked by
proof that Bourne was a man of causeways. Island highlights
his word. Seasonal architectural include the scenic towns of
walking tours of Kennebunk’s Stonington and Deer Isle. From
historic area are offered by Stonington, it is an 8-mile
the Brick Store Museum, (13-km) boat ride to the thickly
housed in four restored 19th- wooded Isle au Haut, much of
century buildings. which belongs to Acadia
National Park (see p180).
E Seashore Trolley Museum Monhegan Island, with its
195 Log Cabin Rd, Kennebunkport. dramatic cliffs and hiking trails,
Tel (207) 967-2712. Open call for times. is an artists’ colony. North Haven
& 7 ∑ trolleymuseum.org Island is a summer colony,
E Brick Store Museum covered with meadows of
117 Main St, Kennebunk. Tel (207) wildflowers. Vinalhaven, with
985-4802. Open 10am–4:30pm Tue– its granite shoreline and inland
Fri, 10am–1pm Sat. Closed Sun, public Sailboats moored in Penobscot Bay’s moors, is a perfect place for a
hols. & ∑ brickstoremuseum.org Camden Harbor swim or a hike.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
180  NEW ENGLAND

The elegant resort town of Bar

Harbor is a lively tourist center
and a good base from which to
explore the Acadia National
Park. More than 5 million visitors
each year pass through Bar
Harbor on their way to the wilds
of the park. Located on Mount
Desert Island’s northeastern
shore, it was the 19th century
summer haven for some of
America’s richest people,
including the Astors and the
Vanderbilts. In 1947, a fire
destroyed a third of the town’s
Bass Harbor Head, which exemplifies Maine’s rock-bound shoreline lavish homes, thus ending its
reign as a high-society enclave.
. Acadia National rises during heavy winds, Attractions include the Abbe
air trapped in this crevice is Museum, which celebrates
Park compressed and then expelled Maine’s Native American
n Hulls Cove Visitor Center, off Rte 3 with a resounding boom. The heritage with displays of tools,
in Hulls Cove, (207) 288-3338. Open Loop Road continues inland, crafts, art, artifacts, and
mid-Apr–Oct: daily. @ Bangor–Bar swinging past Jordan Pond, archaeology. A seasonal branch
Harbor. & 8 at Hulls Cove. 7 Bubble Pond, and Eagle Lake. of the museum is located at
∑ nps.gov/acad On the southern shore of the Sieur de Monts Spring in Acadia
park is the quaint village of National Park next to the Wild
An unspoiled paradise, heavily Bass Harbor, where an 1858 Gardens of Acadia, which has
visited in summer, the 55-sq-mile lighthouse is perched on the some 300 species of local
(142-sq-km) Acadia National rocky coastline, offering plants. The museum sponsors
Park covers much of Mount magnificent views of the ocean. a Native American Festival
Desert Island, off the southeast The park is home to numerous and Basketmakers Market
Maine coast. animals, including woodchucks, each summer.
The scenic Loop Road, a white-tailed deer, and red foxes. Mount Desert Oceanarium,
27-mile (43-km) drive (closed Visitors who want a closer, more situated 8.5 miles (14 km)
Dec–mid-Apr), climbs and dips intimate look at the park’s flora northwest of the town, is an
with the pink granite mountains and fauna can do so on foot, inviting spot for families to walk
of the east coast of the island and bike, or horseback along the along a salt marsh and to learn
takes in its main sights. Among 45 miles (72 km) of old broken- about marine life. The facility
these is the 1,527-ft- (465-m-) stone carriage roads, which includes a touch tank Discovery
high Cadillac Mountain, the wind through the park. Pool, the Lobster Fishing
highest point on the Atlantic Cutting through the center Program, and a lobster
Coast. Hiking trails and an auto of Mount Desert Island is hatchery, where eggs grow
road (closed Dec–mid-Apr) lead Somes Sound, a finger-shaped until the lobsters are large
to spectacular panoramas at natural fjord that juts 5 miles enough to be released. Retired
the summit. The road continues (8 km) inland. It separates the lobstermen recount the gritty
south to the idyllic Sand Beach, quiet village of Southwest work of harvesting Maine’s
but the icy water discourages Harbor from Northeast Harbor, signature shellfish.
many swimmers. Farther which is the center of Mount
south there is a unique natural Desert Island’s social scene, P Bar Harbor
phenomenon known locally as with its upscale shops and n 1201 Bar Harbor Rd, Trenton,
Thunder Hole – when the tide handsome mansions. (207) 288-5103.

Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on the Atlantic coast, with striking panoramas at the summit
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp184–6 and pp187–9
 MAINE  181

@ Bethel
* 2,500. k n 8 Station Place,
(207) 824-2282, (800) 442-5826.
∑ bethelmaine.com

A picturesque historic district, a

major ski resort, and proximity to
the White Mountains give Bethel
year-round appeal. First settled
in 1796, the town was a farming
and lumbering center until the
coming of the railroad in 1851
Roosevelt Cottage, built in 1897, on Campobello Island made it a popular resort. The
lineup of classic clapboard
/ Campobello ! Sugarloaf mansions on the town green
Island n (207) 237-2000, (800) 843-5623. includes the Federal-style Moses
Mason House (c.1813), restored
Roosevelt Campobello International Maine’s highest ski mountain, and furnished with period pieces.
Park: n (506) 752-2922. Open Island: Sugarloaf is the center of this
dawn–dusk; Park: late May–mid-Oct.
There are scenic drives in all
touristy village packed with directions, taking in unspoiled
8 every 15 mins (ID required for
hotels, restaurants, and condo- Colonial hamlets such as
international border crossing). 7
∑ fdr.net
miniums. Downhill skiers, in Waterford to the south, and
particular, are attracted to beautiful mountain terrain to
Located on Campobello Island Sugarloaf/USA ski center with the north. Sunday River Ski
is the Roosevelt Campobello its more than 150 trails and a Resort, 6 miles (10 km) north of
International Park, established vertical drop of 2,820 ft (860 m). town in Newry, has more than
in 1964 as a memorial to The center also offers cross- 130 ski trails. Grafton Notch
President Franklin D. Roosevelt country skiing, ice skating, and State Park has spectacular
(see p59). The island’s main snowshoeing. scenery along its drives and
settlement of Welshpool was In summer, the emphasis hiking trails. The park’s special
where the future president spent shifts to the resort’s 18-hole
spots include waterfalls and
most of his summers until 1921, golf course, boating on the
sweeping views of the scenic
when he contracted polio. lakes and rivers, and hiking in
surroundings from Table Rock
Despite his disability, Roosevelt the nearby Carrabassett Valley.
and Old Speck Mountain.
was elected to four terms, lead- The resort is also famous for its
ing the US through the Great network of more than 50 miles P Moses Mason House
Depression and World War II. (80 km) of mountain-biking 10–14 Broad St. Tel (207) 824-2908.
The highlight of the 44-sq- trails, through flat as well as Open Jul–Aug: 1–4pm Thu–Sat; Sep–
mile (113-sq-km) park – which steep and challenging terrain. Jun: by appt. & 8 7
actually lies in Canada and is Canoeing, kayaking, and paddle-
the only international park in boarding are also available.  Sunday River Ski Resort
the world – is Roosevelt Cottage. Off Rte 2 in Newry. Tel (800) 543-
Built in 1897, this sprawling,  Sugarloaf/USA 2754. Open daily. &
Carrabassett Valley. Tel (207) 237- ∑ sundayriver.com
34-room, two-and-a-half-story
wood-frame summer home 2000, (800) 843-5623. Open daily. Y Grafton Notch State Park
displays furnishings and & 8 7 in lodge. I
Rte 26 NW of Newry. Tel (207) 824-
mementos that had belonged ∑ sugarloaf.com
2912. Open daily. &
to President F.D. Roosevelt
and his family.
At the island’s southern tip
is Liberty Point, where a pair
of observation decks perched
on the rugged cliffs offer far-
ranging views of the Atlantic.
A short distance inland from
here is Lower Duck Pond Bog,
a prime habitat for the great
blue heron, killdeer, and the
American black duck.
On the island’s western shore
is Mulholland Point, with an
1885 lighthouse and a picnic
site offering views of the FDR
Memorial Bridge. Skiers atop the snow-covered slopes of Sugarloaf mountain, Maine
182  NEW ENGLAND

Practical Information the coast and driving tours

during the fall foliage season.
Although particularly popular during summer and fall, Several books list the best
New England is a four-season vacation destination. The driving tours of the region.
superb skiing facilities attract tourists during winter, which Yankee Magazine (www.
yankeemagazine.com) details
often lasts from mid-November to April. The region offers a recommended routes,
wide variety of recreational activities within a relatively historic stops, and places to
small area. On any weekend, vacationers can hike the White eat and stay.
Mountains of New Hampshire, swim at Maine’s Ogunquit
Beach, and take in the Boston Symphony Orchestra. Outside Safety for Drivers
of Boston, where public transportation is excellent, you
Large areas of New England are
definitely need a car for sightseeing. wild, so be prepared for any
eventuality. This is doubly
true in winter, when sudden
Tourist Information Natural Hazards blizzards and white-outs
State tourism offices are The risks involved in taking caused by blowing snow can
great sources of information part in outdoor activities can leave motorists stranded. Stock
and are happy to send road be minimized with proper salt, a snow brush, an ice
maps, brochures, and listings of precautions. Be prepared for scraper, and a small shovel. If
attractions, accommodations, sudden changes in the you do get stuck in an out-of-
and events, free of charge. weather, especially in higher the-way place, stay inside your
Some places also offer elevations. Wear protective car. Keep the motor running
discount vouchers for lodgings, gear for adventure sports and for warmth, but open your
restaurants, and entry fees. never try to interfere with window slightly and keep the
Many towns have a visitors’ wildlife. When hiking, wear tailpipe clear to prevent carbon
bureau that offers information insect repellent to avoid monoxide buildup. American
on local lodgings, events, tick bites, which can cause Automobile Association (AAA)
and restaurants. Lyme disease. provides roadside assistance.

Personal Security Getting Around Laws

New England’s comparatively Many bus companies serve The legal drinking age in
low crime rate makes it a safe particular sections of New New England is 21, and young
holiday destination. But it is England, making it relatively people can be asked to
good to take precautions. Since simple to get from state to produce a proof of age in
pickpockets tend to frequent state. In Boston and Cambridge, order to buy alcohol or enter
popular tourist sights, use a it is easier to get around by a bar. You can lose your driver’s
money belt for cash and public transportation than license if caught driving under
documents and keep cameras by driving. Once outside the the influence of alcohol or
out of sight. Avoid wearing city you will need a car. In fact, drugs. Cigarettes can be sold
expensive jewelry and leave much of New England’s charm only to people 18 years of age
your valuables in the hotel safe. lies along scenic jaunts down or older. Smoking and drinking
in public spaces is illegal.
The Climate of New England
New England’s weather can vary greatly from year to year. Sports & Outdoor
Generally, the short spring is Activities
cloudy and wet, with rainy skies With miles of coastline,
BOSTON
and melting snow. Summer can mountain ranges, forests, and
be unpredictable, but is generally 80/27 rivers, the region has much to
dry – July and August are usually °F/C
offer to sports lovers. The
63/17 63/17
the sunniest months. Bright fall 55/12 choice of camping areas in
days out among the colorful national forests ranges from
46/8
foliage are spectacular – the peak 32°F 39/4 36/2 primitive sites to ones with
fall foliage period usually lasts from °C 20/–7
various facilities. Hiking trails
mid-September to late October.
Snow usually starts in December; 17 20 19 16 crisscross almost the entire
the temperature can dip to 0° F days days days days region, with the most popular
(–18° C) or lower in winter. In 3.5 2.8 3.3 3.6 being the New England section
general, it is warmer along the in in in in of the Appalachian Trail and
coast and in the southern section month Apr Jul Oct Jan Vermont’s Long Trail. The
of New England. Appalachian Trail Conservancy
runs various information and
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  183

education programs on the snowmobiling opportunities. full schedule of concerts at

Appalachian Trail. Miles of quiet Stowe, located in Vermont, Symphony Hall from October
back roads in the region are a can claim the title of New to April. The Pops move in for
cyclist’s paradise. Mountain England’s ski capital. The world- performances in May and June.
bikers also have plenty to famous Stowe Mountain Theater is alive and well
choose from. Some ski areas Resort offers excellent trails across New England’s six
let bikers use their lifts and for skiers of all levels. states, but the epicenter of
slopes in summer. this dynamic world is, again,
New England’s Green and Boston. The most avant-garde
White Mountains offer superb Entertainment contemporary theater found
rock climbing, hang gliding, New England is a traveler’s in Boston is at the American
and paragliding sites. dream, as it offers a wide range Repertory Theater (ART).
Anglers will love New of entertainment. Free concerts
England. Deep-sea fishing is and festivals abound in fall,
best at Point Judith in Rhode spring, and summer, and there Shopping
Island. Brook trout and bass are is no shortage of bars and New England’s well-known
plentiful in the inland streams nightclubs in which to slake, factory outlets offer brand
and lakes, especially in Maine. or build, your thirst. Boston’s name clothing at huge
The state’s latticework of rivers Harvard Square is famous for its discounts. Freeport, Maine
is ideal for canoeing, kayaking, street performers who entertain has the famous outdoor
and whitewater rafting. crowds in summer and fall. equipment outlet L.L. Bean. The
Penobscot Bay, Maine, and Mellow jazz lounges and smoky interconnected Copley Place
Newport, Rhode Island, are blues bars attract a devoted and Shops at Prudential Center
both considered sailing meccas. clientele, as do nightclubs. are Boston’s leading upscale
For those who want something Classical music, theater, and indoor shopping malls. The
calmer than the Atlantic Ocean, dance have long been the region is an antique hunter’s
New England has countless mainstays of the region’s dream, with stores and barns
lakes, and boats can be rented cultural identity. The larger offering a wide array of objects
at many seaside and lakeside towns and cities have good from the past. The Charles Street
resorts. Whale-watching cruises symphony orchestras, dance, section of Boston’s Beacon Hill
have become a very popular and drama companies. But the is one of the prime antiquing
activity. Take the cruise on a hub of the region’s performing areas. Look for shops run by
calm day, as choppy water arts is Boston. The Boston New Hampshire craftsmen,
can cause seasickness. Symphony Orchestra (BSO) Vermont-made products, and
The region’s northernmost and its popular music Maine crafts. Tourists looking
reaches, with a thick annual doppelgänger, the Boston for gifts with a regional flavor
blanket of snow, offer great Pops, are the city’s cherished should sample the maple
skiing, skating, and institutions. The BSO performs a syrup and maple sugar candy.

DIRECTORY
Tourist Fall Foliage Hiking Boston Symphony
Information Hotlines Orchestra
Appalachian Trail
301 Massachusetts Ave,
Connecticut Connecticut Conservancy
Boston, MA.
∑ ctvisit.com Tel (888) 288-4748. 799 Washington St,
Tel (617) 266-1492.
Harpers Ferry, WV 25425-
Greater Boston Maine ∑ bso.org
0807. Tel (304) 535-6331.
Tel (800) 777-0317.
∑ bostonusa.com ∑ appalachiantrail.org
Shopping
Massachusetts
Maine Tel (800) 227-6277. Skiing Copley Place
∑ visitmaine.com
New Hampshire 100 Huntington Ave,
Stowe Mountain
Massachusetts Boston, MA. Tel (617) 262-
Tel (800) 258-3608. Resort
∑ massvacation.com 6600. ∑ simon.com
5781 Mountain Rd, Stowe,
Rhode Island
VT 05672. Tel (800) 253- L.L. Bean
New Hampshire Tel (800) 556-2484.
3000. ∑ stowe.com 95 Main Street, Freeport,
∑ visitnh.gov
Vermont ME. Tel (877) 755-2326.
Rhode Island Tel (800) 837-6668. Entertainment ∑ llbean.com
∑ visitrhodeisland. American Repertory
Road Emergency Shops at Prudential
com Theater Center
Vermont American Auto­ 64 Brattle St, Cambridge, 800 Boylston St, Boston,
∑ vermontvacation. mobile Assn. (AAA) MA. Tel (617) 547-8300. MA. Tel (800) 746-7778.
com Tel (800) 222-4357. ∑ amrep.org ∑ prudentialcenter.com
184  NEW ENGLAND

Where to Stay
Price Guide
DK Choice
Boston Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
BEACON HILL AND THE
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: THEATER DISTRICT:
Hotel 140 $$ John Jeffries House $$ $ up to $150
Value Map 5B Value Map 3C $$ $150 to $300
$$$ over $300
140 Clarendon St, 02116 14 David G Mugar Way, 02114
Tel (617) 585-5600 Tel (617) 367-1866
∑ hotel140.com ∑ johnjeffrieshouse.com choice. Bargain family packages
Bargain, boutique hotel with well- Set in a former nurses’ quarters are often available in summer.
furnished and minimalist rooms, located near the Charles River,
just outside Copley Square. this hotel offers bright rooms, GREATER BOSTON:
most with kitchenettes. It has The Charles Hotel $$$
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: lovely Federal-style public areas. Luxury
Hotel Commonwealth $$ 1 Bennett St, Cambridge, 02138
Luxury Tel (617) 864-1200
500 Commonwealth Ave, 02215 BEACON HILL AND THE ∑ charleshotel.com
Tel (617) 933-5000 THEATER DISTRICT: This modern hotel with well-
∑ hotelcommonwealth.com Liberty Hotel $$$ appointed rooms has an
Located near Fenway Park, this Luxury Map 3C outstanding jazz club, the
newly expanded luxe hotel offers 215 Charles St, 02114 Regattabar, and Rialto restaurant.
a great bar and on-site restaurants. Tel (617) 224-4000
∑ libertyhotel.com OLD BOSTON AND THE
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: Once the Charles Street Jail, this FINANCIAL DISTRICT:
Midtown Hotel $$ hotel features beautiful archi- Omni Parker House $$
Value tecture and a wealth of amenities, Historic Map 3D
220 Huntington Ave, 02115 from bicycle rentals and yoga 60 School St, 02108
Tel (617) 262-1000 classes to guided walking tours. Tel (617) 227-8600
∑ midtownhotel.com ∑ omniparkerhouse.com
This 1960s-style motor inn offers GREATER BOSTON: America’s oldest continuously
connecting rooms that are perfect Constitution Inn $$ operating hotel, this 1856 gem
for big families. Outdoor pool. Value is where the Boston cream pie
150 3rd Ave, Charlestown Navy Yard, was born.
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: Charlestown, 02129
Newbury Guest House $$ Tel (617) 241-8400 OLD BOSTON AND THE
B&B Map 5B ∑ constitutioninn.org FINANCIAL DISTRICT: The
261 Newbury St, 02116 This inn caters mostly to military Langham Boston $$$
Tel (617) 670-6000 personnel, but welcomes all Luxury Map 4E
∑ newburyguesthouse.com visitors to its modern rooms with 250 Franklin St, 02110
Located close to a great shopping complimentary use of the fitness Tel (617) 451-1900
area, this hotel offers a range of center, pool, and sauna. ∑ boston.langhamhotels.com
rooms across three town houses. A sophisticated hotel in an Art
GREATER BOSTON: Royal Nouveau building at the heart of
Sonesta $$ the Financial District, has spacious
DK Choice Business rooms with Second Empire decor.
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: 5 Cambridge Pkwy, Cambridge, 02142
Taj Boston $$$ Tel (617) 806-4200 OLD BOSTON AND THE
Luxury Map 4C ∑ sonesta.com FINANCIAL DISTRICT:
15 Arlington St, 02116 A great art collection and striking XV Beacon $$$
Tel (617) 536-5700 views of the skyline from most Luxury Map 3D
∑ tajhotels.com/boston rooms make this landmark a top 15 Beacon St, 02108
First opened in 1927 as the Tel (617) 670-1500
original Ritz-Carlton, Taj Boston ∑ xvbeacon.com
epitomizes opulence and Chic, cozy boutique hotel popular
”Old Boston“ style. With a with business travelers. Rooms
scenic location, it is one of New feature plenty of high-tech extras.
England’s most inviting hotels.
The lobby bar is legendary.

Massachusetts
BEACON HILL AND THE
THEATER DISTRICT: AMHERST: Allen House Inn $$
Boston Park Plaza $$ B&B
Historic Map 5C 599 Main St, 01002
50 Park Plaza, 02116 Tel (413) 253-5000
Tel (617) 426-2000 ∑ allenhouse.com
∑ bostonparkplaza.com This Victorian property has decor
Dating to 1927, this elegant hotel inspired by the English and
is popular with business travelers The historic, opulent Omni Parker American Victorian Arts and
and conventioneers. House, Boston Crafts Movement.
 W H E R E TO S TAY  185

DK Choice
CONCORD: Colonial Inn $$
Historic
48 Monument Sq, 01742
Tel (978) 369-9200
∑ concordscolonialinn.com
This landmark building dates
back to 1716, and has operated
as an inn since 1889. Much
bigger today, ask for one of the
15 rooms in the original inn for
Colonial ambience. Lovely
atmosphere with Colonial Revival
features and period decor.
Picturesque surroundings of 1661 Inn and Hotel Manisses on Block Island, Rhode Island

GREAT BARRINGTON: private cottages along with MONTVILLE: Mohegan Sun $$

Monument Mountain Motel $ fine-dining options. Luxury
Value 1 Mohegan Sun Blvd, 06382
247 Stockbridge Rd, 02130 PROVIDENCE: Courtyard Tel (888) 226-7711
Tel (413) 528-3272 Providence Downtown $$ ∑ mohegansun.com
∑ monumentmountainmotel.com Business Entertainment haven with three
Ideal spot for outdoor activities, 32 Exchange Terrace, 02903 casinos, famous performers,
with stunning hiking trails nearby. Tel (401) 272-1191 gourmet dining, and shopping.
Excellent connecting family units. ∑ marriott.com
At this low-rise hotel connected to MYSTIC: Whaler’s Inn $$
LENOX: Canyon Ranch $$$ Providence Place mall and the R.I. B&B
Luxury Convention Center via a walkway, 20 East Main St, 06355
165 Kemble St, 01240 most rooms offer city views. Tel (860) 536-1506
Tel (413) 637-4100 ∑ whalersinnmystic.com
∑ canyonranch.com This centrally located, welcoming
This deluxe spa resort – one of DK Choice inn requires a minimum two-
New England’s most expensive PROVIDENCE: Hotel night stay on weekends and
options – offers all-inclusive Providence $$ holidays except in winter.
packages with access to several Luxury
health and wellness facilities. 311 Westminster St, 02903
Tel (401) 861-8000 DK Choice
NANTUCKET: ∑ hotelprovidence.com NEW HAVEN: Study at
Century House $$$ Hotel Providence combines Yale $$
Luxury modern design with classic Luxury
10 Cliff Rd, 02554 European flair. The 16 suites are 1157 Chapel St, 06511
Tel (508) 228-0530 inspired by and named after Tel (203) 503-3900
∑ centuryhouse.com prominent New England ∑ studyhotels.com
Open since 1833, the island’s authors. Located in the city’s A sleek, contemporary hotel
oldest family-run inn has a lovely arts and theater district, it has located across the street from
19th-century ambience. an award-winning full-service Yale School of Art, Study at Yale
restaurant on site. provides a hip base from which
to explore the city’s various
cultural and culinary delights.
Rhode Island The luxurious rooms are fitted
with large flatscreen TVs, leather
BLOCK ISLAND: 1661 Inn Connecticut reading chairs, seersucker robes,
and Hotel Manisses $$ and iPod docks. A farm-to-table
B&B HARTFORD: Hilton $ restaurant completes the
5 Spring St, 02807 Business thoroughly modern atmosphere.
Tel (401) 466-2421 315 Trumbull St, 06103
∑ blockislandresorts.com Tel (860) 728-5151
Small atmospheric rooms ∑ hilton.com
with period furniture and old- This expansive downtown hotel
time seaside decor. The hotel is just a short walk from key sites. Vermont
section closes mid-October Fitness center and indoor pool.
to March. BRATTLEBORO: Latchis
MASHANTUCKET: Hotel $$
NEWPORT: Castle Hill Foxwoods Resort Casino $$ Historic
Inn and Resort $$$ Luxury 50 Main St, 05301
Luxury 350 Trolley Line Blvd, 06338 Tel (802) 254-6300
590 Ocean Dr, 02840 Tel (860) 312-3000 ∑ latchis.com
Tel (401) 849-3800 ∑ foxwoods.com An Art Deco hotel with a movie
∑ castlehillinn.com One of the world’s largest casino theater and auditorium that often
Set in a stunning waterfront resorts features over 25 restau- has concerts. Modest rooms with
locale, Castle Hill offers scenic rants and many shopping options. Continental breakfast included.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 26–7
186  NEW ENGLAND

PORTSMOUTH: Hotel
Portsmouth $$
Boutique
40 Court St, 03801
Tel (603) 433-1200
∑ thehotelportsmouth.com
Set in a Victorian mansion, this hotel
has intimate rooms with historic
decor and high-tech amenities.

Maine
KENNEBUNKPORT:
The Colony Hotel $$$
B&B
140 Ocean Ave, 04046
Tel (207) 967-3331
Omni Mount Washington Hotel, Bretton Woods, New Hampshire ∑ thecolonyhotel.com
Overlooking the ocean, this hotel
BURLINGTON: Hotel Vermont $$$ has a heated saltwater pool, a surf
Boutique New Hampshire beach, and extensive gardens.
41 Cherry St, 05401 Closed late-October to mid-May.
Tel (855) 650-0080
∑ hotelvt.com DK Choice
Centrally-located, contemporary BRETTON WOODS: Omni DK Choice
hotel with stunning decor and Mount Washington Hotel $$$ KENNEBUNKPORT:
dining that evokes Vermont spirit. Luxury White Barn Inn $$$
Perfect for nightlife and access 310 Mt Washington Hotel Rd, Historic
to lake. 03585 37 Beach Ave, 04043
Tel (603) 278-1000 Tel (207) 967-2321
MANCHESTER: ∑ omnihotels.com ∑ whitebarninn.com
The Equinox Resort $$$ A favorite with dignitaries since This 1820 restored inn offers
Luxury 1902, this elegant hotel is a prime a variety of lodging options.
3567 Main St, 05254 example of Spanish Renaissance Rooms, suites, and cottages are
Tel (802) 362-4700 architecture. It boasts numerous equipped with modern ameni-
∑ equinoxresort.com public areas, dining facilities, a ties. A natural stone-heated
This historic 18th-century resort signature spa, and a golf course swimming pool and spa provide
offers stunning public spaces designed by Donald Ross. Guests relaxation. The acclaimed on-site
and spacious rooms. Popular enjoy high-quality service in a restaurant, which has been
activities include boating, golf, beautiful natural setting. featured on TV shows, serves
falconry, fly-fishing, and shooting. excellent local, seasonal cuisine.

MONTPELIER: The Inn CONCORD: The Centennial Inn $$

at Montpelier $$ B&B OGUNQUIT: The Cliff House
B&B 96 Pleasant St, 03301 Resort & Spa $$
147 Main St, 05602 Tel (603) 227-9000 Historic
Tel (802) 223-2727 ∑ thecentennialhotel.com 591 Shore Rd, 03907
∑ innatmontpelier.com This 1892 Victorian mansion offers Tel (207) 361-1000
Two stately Federal-era houses contemporary rooms. Turret ∑ cliffhousemaine.com
boast rooms with wood- suites are highly sought-after. Iconic spa resort offering rooms
burning fireplaces. A generous with balconies. Closed mid-
Continental breakfast is included. KEENE: Fairfield Inn & Suites December to March.
Keene Downtown $$
Historic PORTLAND: Portland Regency
DK Choice 30 Main St, 03441 Hotel $$
STOWE: Trapp Tel (603) 357-7070 Business
Family Lodge $$$ ∑ marriott.com 20 Milk St, 04101
Resort Handsome brick building on Main Tel (207) 774-4200
700 Trapp Hill Rd, 05672 Street that served as a department ∑ theregency.com
Tel (802) 253-8512 store for a century before it was This inviting hotel, in the heart
∑ trappfamily.com converted into this gracious hotel. of the Old Port, has rooms with
This world-famous resort is run Colonial-style furnishings.
by the family that inspired The MANCHESTER: Hilton Garden
Sound of Music. The 96-room Inn $$ PORTLAND: Press Hotel $$$
property includes an Austrian- Business Luxury
style lodge and cozy chalets. 101 S Commercial St, 03101 119 Exchange St, 04101
Enjoy nightly live entertainment, Tel (603) 669-2222 Tel (207) 808-8800
sleigh rides, skiing, and exquisite ∑ hgi-manchester.com ∑ thepresshotel.com
cuisine that pairs nicely with Ideally located for both leisure Upscale, journalism-themed with
beer from the on-site brewery. and business travelers, the rooms designer rooms, retro-style writer’s
here are well appointed. desks and top on-site restaurant.
For key to prices see page 184
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  187

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
DK Choice
Boston Prices are based on a three-course meal
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: per person, with a half-bottle of house
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: L’Espalier $$$ wine, including tax and service.
Flour Bakery $ French $ up to $45
American 776 Boylston St, 02199 $$ $45 to $80
1595 Washington St, 02118 Tel (617) 262-3023 $$$ over $80
Tel (617) 267-4300 A romantic destination, L’Espalier
One of the neighborhood’s most offers some of New England’s BEACON HILL AND THE
popular meeting spots, where most acclaimed contemporary THEATER DISTRICT:
both locals and tourists stop by French cuisine, seved by an No. 9 Park $$$
for gourmet sandwiches, coffee, impeccable waitstaff. Chef-owner French/Italian Map 4D
and freshly baked goods. Frank McClelland’s vegetarian 9 Park St, 02108
entrées, featuring produce from Tel (617) 742-9991
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: his own farm, are every bit as This bold bistro overlooking
Joe’s American Bar & Grill $ sophisticated as those with Boston Common serves inventive
American Map 5B meat. Inventive desserts, an gourmet dishes that pair well with
181 Newbury St, 02116 unrivaled cheese program, and the imaginative wine list.
Tel (617) 536-4200 a to-die-for wine list complete
Joe’s offers an extensive menu this gourmet experience. GREATER BOSTON:
of favorites, from giant salads Craigie on Main $$$
to prime burgers. The patio is French
great for people-watching. Kid- BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: 853 Main St, 02138
friendly staff. Grill 23 $$$ Tel (617) 497-5511 Closed Mon
Steak House Map 5B Run by one of Boston’s most
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: 161 Berkeley St, 02117 lauded chefs Tony Maws, this
Mike’s City Diner $ Tel (617) 542-2255 bustling Cambridge gastropub
American This big-ticket steak house is offers a seasonal menu. The fried
1714 Washington St, 02118 reminiscent of the exclusive pigs’ tails are legendary.
Tel (617) 267-9393 supper clubs of the Prohibition
This classic breakfast-and-lunch era. Prime aged beef with an NORTH END AND THE
diner is often crowded, with a inventive spin is served in a WATERFRONT:
line of guests waiting outside to sumptuously classic interior. James Hook & Co. $
be seated. The menu features Seafood Map 4E
filling classics such as corned BEACON HILL AND THE 15 Northern Ave, 02110
beef hash and home fries. THEATER DISTRICT: Tel (617) 423-5501
Anna’s Taqueria $ Located on Fort Point Channel,
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: Mexican Map 3C this seafood joint serves fresh
Parish Café $ 242 Cambridge St, 02114 lobster, clams, crab, and fish to go.
American Map 4B Tel (617) 227-8822
361 Boylston St, 02116 Popular cafeteria-style chain NORTH END AND THE
Tel (617) 247-4777 serving delectable no-frills WATERFRONT: Pizzeria Regina $
Parish Café is renowned for its Mexican bites such as burritos, Pizzeria Map 2E
innovative sandwiches created tacos, and quesadillas. It is 11 1/2 Thacher St, 02113
by some of Boston’s best chefs. favored by neighborhood Tel (617) 227-0765
In summer, the sidewalk patio students and the surrounding The city’s best-known pizza spot
offers terrific views of the street. medical community. since 1926 hasn’t changed much.
Expect good-value wine and
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END: amazing brick-oven pies.
Island Creek Oyster Bar $$
Seafood NORTH END AND
500 Commonwealth Ave, 02215 THE WATERFRONT:
Tel (617) 532-5300 Legal Sea Foods $$$
Far more than an oyster bar, Seafood Map 3E
this large restaurant serves a 255 State St, 02109
plethora of exceptionally fresh Tel (617) 742-5300
and delicious seafood in Legendary local chain serving
casual surroundings. very fresh fish in a fine-dining
setting. The clam chowder is
BACK BAY AND unrivaled, while the raw clams
SOUTH END: Toro $$ and oysters are impeccable.
Spanish
1704 Washington St, 02118 OLD BOSTON AND THE
Tel (617) 536-4300 FINANCIAL DISTRICT: O Ya $$
Book well in advance at Toro, Japanese
the city’s most popular spot for 9 East St, 02111
upscale tapas and Latin fare. The Tel (617) 654-9900 Closed Sun & Mon
menu is filled with traditional and One of the city’s most acclaimed
modern dishes made from locally The elegant interior of L’Espalier, a restaurants, the hard-to-find O Ya
sourced ingredients. fine-dining restaurant in Boston serves delicious Japanese fare.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 28–9
188  NEW ENGLAND

NEWPORT: MONTVILLE:
Massachusetts White Horse Tavern $$ Bobby Flay’s Bar Americain $$
American French/American
ESSEX: Woodman’s of Essex $ 26 Marlborough St, 02840 1 Mohegan Sun Blvd, 06382
Seafood Tel (401) 849-3600 Tel (860) 862-8000
121 Main St, 01929 One of America’s oldest taverns, The popular TV chef treats locals
Tel (978) 768-6057 White Horse serves upscale fare and tourists to his interpretations
Casual no-frills restaurant famed in candlelit environs, with low- of American classics and top-
for its fried clams, huge steamed beamed ceilings, hearth fires, notch seafood in a French
lobsters, and clam cakes. and Colonial decor. brasserie-style dining room that
can get noisy.
LENOX: Bistro Zinc $$$ PROVIDENCE: East Side
French Pockets $ MYSTIC:
56 Church St, 01240 Middle Eastern Oyster Club $$
Tel (413) 637-8800 278 Thayer St, 02906 American
At this upscale bistro with a long Tel (401) 453-1100 13 Water St, 06355
zinc bar, modern dishes feature This family-owned eatery is pop- Tel (860) 415-9266
alongside familiar French favorites. ular with vegetarians and budget Bistro-style seafood, including
travelers. Serves savory Middle butter-poached lobster roll is
MARTHA’S VINEYARD: Eastern wraps and platters, and a served at this restaurant, comple-
Net Result $ great range of vegetarian options. mented with Martha-Stewart rustic
Seafood setting and an outdoor deck.
79 Beach Rd, 02554
Tel (508) 693-6071 Closed Tue DK Choice NEW HAVEN:
(except summer) PROVIDENCE: Al Forno $$$ Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria $
Fish market and café run by the Italian Pizzeria
island’s largest seafood distributor. 577 S Main St, 02903 157 Wooster St, 06511
Serves excellent sushi and lobster. Tel (401) 273-9760 Closed Sun & Tel (203) 865-5762
Mon Opened in 1925, this simple
PLYMOUTH: Lobster Hut $$ Diners come from far and wide spot is known for its delicious
Seafood to enjoy the nationally renowned thin-crust pizzas. Especially
25 Town Wharf, 02360 Italian fare at Al Forno. The popular is their white clam
Tel (508) 746-2270 menu boasts delectable dishes pizza – a must-try.
Waterfront self-service restaurant including wood-fire grilled
just steps from the Mayflower II, meats, thin-crust pizzas made in
offers classic fish-shack dishes. stone-floor ovens, and baked DK Choice
pasta dishes, all made using NEW HAVEN: Louis’ Lunch $
seasonal ingredients. Offers a American
DK Choice comprehensive wine list. The 263 Crown St, 06511
WALTHAM: Il Capriccio $$$ kitchen’s talents have spawned Tel (203) 562-5507 Closed Sun &
Italian Closed Sun numerous cookbooks. Mon
888 Main St, 02453 It is widely considered that
Tel (781) 894-2234 this famous lunch counter
This exclusive New England is where the hamburger
restaurant specializes in fish and originated. Louis’ Lunch was
vegetable dishes of the Veneto Connecticut the first eatery ever to serve
and Liguria, while bringing a ground beef patty on toasted
wood smoke flavors to its HARTFORD: Max Downtown $$ bread all the way back in 1895,
Tuscan grill dishes. Extensive American when it opened. Today, it
wine list ranges from Friuli 185 Asylum St, 06103 remains mostly unchanged,
whites to bold Barolos. Tel (860) 522-2530 with an old-time ambience that
The flagship restaurant of a local matches its small menu and
chain, Max Downtown serves low prices. The delicious
modern American fare in smart, burgers are steamed in
stylish environs. The menu and vintage broilers.
Rhode Island wine list are extensive.

BLOCK ISLAND:
Manisses Dining Room $$
American
5 Spring St, 02807
Tel (401) 466-2836 Closed Oct–May
Formal eatery popular for freshly
caught seafood, home-made
pastas, and elaborate desserts.

NEWPORT: Crazy Dough’s Pizza $

Pizzeria
446 Thames St, 02840
Tel (401) 619-3343 Closed Mon
Popular choice for a quick,
good-value meal of award-
winning pizzas and calzones. Al Forno, an acclaimed Italian restaurant in Providence, Rhode Island

For key to prices see page 187

 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  189

Vermont
BURLINGTON: Leunig’s Bistro $$
French
115 Church St, 05401
Tel (802) 863-3759
Located in a 1920s Art Deco
building, this award-winning grill
and bistro has a varied menu of
French classics and Mediterranean-
influenced American dishes.
Red Arrow Diner, a local favorite at Manchester
MIDDLEBURY:
American Flatbread $ can choose to sit in the spacious serves an array of fresh seafood,
Pizzeria dining room or the inviting pub. steak, pasta dishes, and home-
137 Maple St, 05753 made pies.
Tel (802) 388-3300 Closed Sun & Mon HANOVER: Lou’s $
This local institution utilizes American KENNEBUNKPORT:
organic produce and cooks its 30 South Main St, 03755 The Clam Shack $
pies in wood-fired clay ovens. Tel (603) 643-3321 Seafood
Award-winning craft beers. Popular for its comfort food, Lou’s 2 Western St, 04046
has served up breakfast and Tel (207) 967-2560 Closed Nov–
MONTPELIER: Neci on Main $$ lunch fare to many generations Apr
French/American of Dartmouth College students. Seaside takeout stand serving
118 Main St, 05602 fried and steamed seafood.
Tel (802) 223-3188 Closed Mon MANCHESTER: Red Fresh-cut onion rings are a
Employing students of the New Arrow Diner $ popular accompaniment.
England Culinary Institute, Neci on American
Main boasts dishes with French 61 Lowell St, 03101 OGUNQUIT:
touches and local ingredients. Tel (603) 626-1118 Barnacle Billy’s $
Dating back to 1922, this diner Seafood
serves classic American dishes 70 Perkins Cove Rd, 03907
DK Choice around the clock. Friendly service. Tel (207) 646-5575 Closed Nov–
QUECHEE: Simon Pearce Mar
Restaurant $$ Classic, bare-bones Maine lobster
American DK Choice house with a basic seafood
1760 Quechee Main St, 05059 MEREDITH: Hart’s Turkey menu. Enjoy clam-shack fare
Tel (802) 295-1470 Farm Restaurant $ beside the harbor.
Housed in a restored mill American
overlooking the Ottauquechee 233 Daniel Webster Hwy, 03253 PORTLAND: Fore Street $$$
River, Simon Pearce enjoys a Tel (603) 279-6212 American
scenic location. After checking Family-run restaurant 288 Fore St, 04101
out the namesake glass-blowing specializing in serving country- Tel (207) 775-2717
studio, where the glassware and style turkey dinners, including The menu at Fore Street
pottery used by the restaurant turkey pot pie, turkey livers, and features fresh ingredients from
are produced, guests fill the even turkey tempura. A huge Maine’s community of farmers,
romantic dining room to enjoy selection of non-turkey dishes is fishermen, foragers, and cheese-
fresh, modern American cuisine also available, such as prime rib, makers. High-vaulted ceilings
and an award-winning wine list. as well as a full line of seafood. and a brick hearth add to
the warm environs.

STOWE: Depot Street PORTSMOUTH:

Malt Shop $ The Oar House $$ DK Choice
American American ROCKLAND:
57 Depot St, 05672 55 Ceres St, 03801 Primo Restaurant $$$
Tel (802) 253-4369 Tel (603) 436-4025 American
Popular for its fries, grilled sand- Upscale cuisine, including local 2 South Main St, 04841
wiches, burgers, ice-cream, and seafood, served in a restored Tel (207) 596-0770 Closed Mon–
50s style soda fountain. A great 1803 warehouse with maritime- Wed; Jan–Mar
menu for kids and casual setting inspired decor, close to the harbor. Primo is a welcoming,
make this a family-friendly spot. nationally acclaimed restaurant
run by a talented chef, Melissa
Kelly, who grows her own
Maine produce, and also raises pigs.
New Hampshire The innovative cuisine is
BAR HARBOR: West Street famous, and features seasonal,
CONCORD: The Common Man $ Café $$ local seafood and vegetables
American American freshly procured from their
25 Water St, 03301 76 West St, 04609 farm. It also offers an extensive
Tel (603) 228-3463 Tel (207) 288-5242 Closed Dec–May international wine list and a
American comfort food served This welcoming eatery located range of desserts.
in pleasant environs. Guests near the downtown waterfront
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 28–9
WASHINGTON,
DC & THE
CAPITAL
REGION
Introducing Washington, DC
& the Capital Region 192–199
Washington, DC 200–215
Virginia 216–223
West Virginia 224–225
Maryland 226–229
Delaware 230–231
192  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

Washington, DC & the

Capital Region at a Glance
Washington, DC and the four states that make up
the Capital Region lie in the northeastern United
States. This area played an important role in
America’s history – the earliest colonies were
established here, and many battles of the
Revolutionary War and Civil War were fought on
its fields. The region is, therefore, dotted with
magnificent historic sites. Washington, DC is one New River Gorge National
of America’s most visited cities and offers a great River (see p224),
in West Virginia, runs through
range of cultural attractions. The surrounding
dense forests. The dramatic
region’s rich variety of landscapes includes Virginia’s gorge is a perfect white-water
lush, rolling countryside, West Virginia’s rugged rafting destination.
mountains, Maryland’s picturesque bays
and harbors, and Delaware’s parks, beaches, Wheeling
and opulent country mansions.

Cumberland

Parkersburg
0 kilometers 50 Clarksburg
0 miles 50

WEST VIRGINIA
(See pp224–25)

Harrisonburg

Charleston
Huntington

VIRGINIA
Covington (See pp216–23)
Beckley
Williamson

Lynchburg
Roanoke
Bluefield

Pulaski
Norton

Marion
Martinsville

Blue Ridge Parkway (see p222),

stretching 215 miles (346 km) through
Virginia, winds its way along the crest of
the Appalachian Mountains all the way to
North Carolina. This lovely route is at its best
during spring and fall.
The Neo-Classical Jefferson Memorial on the banks of the Tidal Basin, Washington, DC
 I N T R O D U C I N G WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N  193

Baltimore (see p226) epitomizes the rich maritime Locator Map

heritage of Maryland. This pleasant port city’s
redeveloped waterfront features many shops and
restaurants, as well as the stunning National Aquarium.

Wilmington
MARYLAND
(See pp226–29)

Baltimore
Columbia Dover
Winchester
Annapolis DELAWARE
(See pp230–31)
Washington, DC
Rehoboth
Alexandria Beach

Salisbury
Fredericksburg

Charlottesville
Rehoboth Beach (see p231),
along the Atlantic Ocean in
Delaware, is one of the state’s
liveliest beach resorts, with
Richmond
restaurants and shopping malls,
Williamsburg as well as a range of options for
endless entertainment.
Petersburg

Hampton
Virginia Beach
Norfolk

Franklin

Washington, DC (see pp200–215),

the nation’s imposing capital, is
dominated by the White House, the
president’s official residence since the
1820s. Each year, 1.5 million visitors take
the tour of this elegantly decorated
mansion, the city’s signature landmark.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 I N T R O D U C I N G WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N  195

WASHINGTON, DC &
THE CAPITAL REGION
Center of government for a powerful nation, Washington, DC is a stately,
Neo-Classical city, with grand avenues and monumental public buildings
that reflect the pride and ambitions that course through the corridors of
power. Its surrounding region preserves important places where the young
nation evolved from a Colonial outpost to an independent country.

Located midway along the Atlantic Coast, History

the nation’s capital lies at the heart of the The first Europeans to this area were a
East Coast. This was also the heart of the small band of Spanish explorers and
Colonial landscape where the country Jesuit priests who tried unsuccessfully to
began, and where many of its most set up a colony around Chesapeake Bay
significant events occurred. Besides its rich in 1570. They were followed by the
tapestry of historical events, this region English, who in honor of the “Virgin
also has one of the country’s most Queen” Elizabeth I, named the entire
beautiful and varied landscapes. Just region between Spanish Florida and
30 miles (48 km) east from the White French Canada, “Virginia.” But it was not
House is Chesapeake Bay, the country’s until 1607, under the reign of James I,
largest and most productive estuary, while that Virginia’s first successful English
to the west are the lush Appalachian settlement, Jamestown, was founded a
hardwood forests. This wide variety of few miles up the James River on
topography and scenery is paralleled Chesapeake Bay. Despite the initial
by an equally wide range of social and hardships, the Colonists’ prospects
economic situations; the area in and improved after they learned to cultivate
around the nation’s capital is home tobacco and corn. By the 1630s, Virginia
to some of the wealthiest, with less had become the world’s leading
established areas rapidly gentrifying. producer of tobacco.

Natural chimney formations in the Shenandoah Valley at Front Royal, Virginia

The Governor’s Palace in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia
196  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

Nighttime view of Lincoln Memorial and Washington Monument with the US Capitol in the distance

Jamestown’s eventual success led to the Maryland had evolved into England’s most
establishment of the Catholic colony of profitable New World colonies. In 1664, the
Maryland, named in honor of King James’s English took control of Delaware, founded
wife, Queen Mary. Governed by Lord and settled by the Dutch and the Swedish in
Baltimore, the colony attracted Catholics from the early 1600s. West Virginia, however, did
England as well as Puritan and Quaker settlers not separate from Virginia until the Civil War.
from Virginia. Every year, thousands of English By the 1670s, a simultaneous rise in taxes
immigrants came to the new colonies in and a swift drop in tobacco prices caused
search of opportunities impossible back widespread suffering and a short-lived
home. By the mid-1660s, both Virginia and rebellion. The situation stabilized in the
early 1700s, when some of the tobacco
KEY DATES IN HISTORY farmers began to reap great fortunes. Much
1607 Establishment of the private English colony of of their success was based on the shift from
Jamestown in Virginia servant labor to that of African slaves, whose
1624 Virginia becomes a royal colony numbers grew from a few hundred in
1632 King Charles I establishes Maryland 1650 to over 150,000 in 1750, when blacks
1664 Delaware comes under British rule made up nearly half the total population.
1699 Williamsburg becomes Virginia’s capital
1774 Virginia’s Peyton Randolph leads the first Independence & Civil War
Continental Congress to discuss freedom
Frustration over British rule eventually
1775–81 The Revolutionary War
led to calls for independence. Although
1791 George Washington obtains land for the
capital city the Revolutionary War ended at Yorktown,
1830 The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad (B&O) is the Virginia, in 1781, it was only after the Treaty of
nation’s first long-distance railroad Paris that American independence became a
1846 The Smithsonian Institution is established reality. Virginia, by far the largest and wealthiest
1865 Confederate General Robert E. Lee surrenders to of the American colonies, provided many of
the Union at Appomattox
the “Founding Fathers,” including George
1932 During the Great Depression, a “Bonus Army” of
WWI veterans camp around the Capitol to plead for Washington, the military leader and first
government aid president; Thomas Jefferson, author of the
1935 US Supreme Court building is completed Declaration of Independence and third
1963 Martin Luther King Jr. delivers his “I have a president; and James Madison, author of
Dream” speech before Lincoln Memorial
the Constitution and two-term president.
1989 L. Douglas Wilder is elected governor of Virginia,
the first black person to hold such high office
In 1791, Washington, empowered by a
Sept 11, 2001 Terrorist attack on the Pentagon
Congressional act, selected the site for the
2009 The nation’s first African-American president,
nation’s capital on land incorporated from
Barack Obama, is elected Maryland and Virginia, a choice determined by
its location midway between north and south.
 I N T R O D U C I N G WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N  197

This independent federal territory, termed the Congress’s rule. In 1971 residents were
District of Columbia (DC) was merged with permitted to elect a non-voting delegate
the city of Washington in 1878. When the to Congress and later, in 1973, the Home
government moved to Washington in 1800, Rule Act allowed the people to vote for
the US Capitol and the president’s home both mayor and the city council.
(later renamed the “White House”) were still
under construction. Both were burned People & Culture
by the British during the War of 1812. Washington and the surrounding area reflect
Nothing has been more divisive in the less stereotypical aspects of contemporary US.
region’s history than the issue of slavery. Many Its residents range from “blue-bloods” with
residents were slaveholders; others roots reaching back to before the
became ardent abolitionists. As Mayflower landed at Plymouth Rock,
racial tensions escalated, war to recent immigrants and descend-
between the North and the South ants of African-American slaves. This
became inevitable. Over the course diversity is often surprising. Some of
of the four-year Civil War (1861–65), the most patrician communities are
many significant battles, including in northern Virginia’s anglophile “Hunt
General Robert E. Lee’s surrender at Country” and among Annapolis’
Appomattox Court House, took Cycling, a pleasant way to nautical millionaires. Alongside are
place in this region. The area was explore Washington, DC outposts of blue-collar industry, and
also home to the rival capitals – many anachronistic communities,
Washington, DC and Richmond, Virginia. such as the Chesapeake’s traditional fisherman
Between the 1880s and the 1930s, (“watermen”) villages and the proud holdouts
Washington, DC evolved into the grand of Appalachian mountain culture, still
city intended by its planners. Wide avenues visible in West Virginia.
were opened up, tawdry railroads were Washington itself offers very revealing
removed from the National Mall, and many images of class and character, with its many
grand buildings were constructed to house poor, minority neighborhoods seemingly
the expanding bureaucracy. Even so, resi- a world away from wealthy enclaves, such
dents of of Washington, DC have never had as Georgetown and Foggy Bottom. Many
full representation in Congress because the of these formerly all-black neighborhoods,
state is technically a federal jurisdiction, not including Shaw, Eckington, Petworth,
a state, and so naturally falls under Ledroit Park, and Columbia Heights, Trinidad,
and Brookland, are rapidly gentrifying as
young professionals buy homes there.
From these diverse social strata have
emerged many remarkable people. Francis
Scott Key composed the national anthem
“The Star-Spangled Banner” in Baltimore, while
Thurgood Marshall championed Civil Rights
as an activist and later as a Supreme Court
Justice. Authors include Louisa May Alcott,
Edgar Allen Poe, poets Walt Whitman,
and Langston Hughes, the scholar, editor,
and journalist H.L. Mencken, novelist Edward
P. Jones, and contemporary novelist Anne Tyler.
Singers include Patsy Cline and Ella Fitzgerald,
from Virginia, and Baltimore’s Billie Holliday
and DC native Duke Ellington who made
Lee’s surrender at Appomattox Court House jazz and swing the nation’s soundtrack.
198  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

Exploring Washington, DC
& the Capital Region
Washington, DC, the nation’s capital, with its
magnificent monuments, superb museums,
and cosmopolitan flavor, is a favorite
destination for tourists. Within easy reach of
the capital, the four states of Virginia, West Colorful furled sails on the Maryland coast
Weirton
Virginia, Maryland, and Delaware are equally
rewarding to explore, offering a varied area of
mountains, plains, beaches, and historic Columbus Wheeling
Pittsburgh

towns. Among the region’s most popular Moundsville PENNSYLVANIA

attractions are the Colonial town of
Williamsburg, the scenic splendours of OHIO Ch
ea Cumberland
250 t 68
Morgantown
the Shenandoah Valley and the Blue Akron
119
219

Ridge Parkway, and the unspoiled Clarksburg 50

wilderness of West Virginia. The 50

c
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ma
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nc h P
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Johnson City NORTH CAROLINA

Knoxville
Charlotte

Key
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Major road
Railroad
State border

John Brown’s Fort, Harpers Ferry National Park in West Virginia

For key to symbols see back flap
 I N T R O D U C I N G WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N  199

0 kilometers 50

0 miles 50

Nemours Mansion
& Gardens

Harrisburg Hagley Museum/

Harrisburg Winterthur Eleutherian Mills
Wilmington The interior of the Oval Office in the White
Antietam National 95
New Castle House, Washington, DC
Battlefield Aberdeen
81 Towson North Bay NEW
Frederick
81
Columbia Baltimore JERSEY
Harpers 270 Dover Sights at a Glance
Ferry Annapolis 1 Washington, DC pp200–215
Winchester Silver Spring DELAWARE
Dulles Washington, DC 50 13 Lewes Virginia
66
Front Alexandria St.Michaels Easton
Royal 2 Alexandria
George Washington’s Rehoboth
Dale City Mount Vernon 3 George Washington’s
Cambridge Beach
Estate Mount Vernon Estate pp216–17
Salisbury
4 Fredericksburg
17 301

Fredericksburg
M ARY L AN D Ocean 5 Colonial Williamsburg pp218–19
City
Ch

6 Jamestown & Yorktown

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64
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Richmond q Appomattox Court House
60 National Historical Park
Colonial Williamsburg Jamestown & w Blue Ridge Parkway
Petersburg Yorktown
295
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460 am Hampton
J

95 es West Virginia
Virginia Beach
Norfolk
85 264 r Monongahela National Forest
Suffolk t New River Gorge National River
Lake y Harpers Ferry
Gaston

Maryland
Durham Rocky Mount
u Antietam National Battlefield
i Frederick
o Baltimore
p Annapolis
a North Bay
Mileage Chart s St. Michaels
Washington, DC d Easton
7 10 = Distance in miles f Crisfield
Alexandria, VA
11 g Salisbury
10 = Distance in kilometers
105 102
169 164
Richmond, VA h Ocean City
69 73 167
Harpers Ferry, WV Delaware
111 118 269
45 51 150 67
Baltimore, MD j Wilmington
72 82 241 108
k Winterthur
32 41 137 89 31
51 66 220 143 50 Annapolis, MD l Hagley Museum/ Eleutherian Mills
107 114 224 141 70 97 z Nemours Mansion & Gardens
Wilmington, DE
172 183 360 227 113 156
x New Castle
106 113 222 138 69 96 6
170 182 357 222 111 154 10
New Castle, DE c Lewes
v Rehoboth Beach
200  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

1 Washington, DC
Washington, DC covers an area of 61 sq miles
(158 sq km) and has a population of about 600,000.
As the capital of the US and the seat of federal
government, it is rich in grand monuments. It also
has a vibrant cultural life, with superb museums,
most of them free, and an array of entertainments.
The city is made up of four quadrants, with the US
Capitol at the central point. The northwest quadrant
contains most of the tourist sights, with other sights
and places of interest located round the Capitol and
south of the Mall, in the southwest quadrant.

Tourists checking their routes at a tourist

information kiosk
Getting Around
P S TPR ESETTR E ENTW N W Washington’s excellent public transportation system
O O STREET
STREET NW NW
is more convenient than driving a car. Traffic is heavy
NW

NW

GEORGETOWN
GEORGETOWN and parking spaces are limited. All the major tourist
NNW

STREET NW
ST

ST

attractions in the city are accessible on foot, or by

NW

N N STREET
STREET NW NW
33RD

33RD

Metrorail, Metrobus, the Circulator bus, or taxi.

STREET
NW

NW
ST

ST

M SMT R ES ET TR ENEW
T NOld
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Old Stone PE P
HouseHouse NN ENN
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For keys to symbols see back flap

 WASHINGTON, DC  201

Sights at a Glance Greater Washington, DC

Baltimore
Baltimore
1 United States Capitol pp202–203
396 396
2 Library of Congress 185 185
3 US Supreme Court
4 National Air & Space Museum
5 National Gallery of Art
Georgetown
Georgetown
6 National Museum of Natural History
7 National Museum of African Art
Downtown
Downtown
8 National Museum of American History
9 Smithsonian American Art Museum &
50 50
National Portrait Gallery to t

Po

Po
Arlington
Arlington m om
ac ac
0 Washington Monument
4 4
q National World War II Memorial
EA ST EA ST
POTOMA
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Anacostia
w United States Holocaust
244 244 1 1
Memorial Museum
0 km 2
e Jefferson Memorial Alexandria
Alexandria Washington
Washington
National
National
Airport
Airport
r Franklin D. Roosevelt Memorial Richmond
Richmond 0 miles 2

t Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial

Key
y Lincoln Memorial Greater Washington, DC
u Vietnam Veterans Memorial (see inset map) Area of main map
i The White House pp210–211 f Phillips Collection Highway
o Renwick Gallery g National Zoological Park Major road
p Corcoran Gallery of Art h Washington National
a The Kennedy Center Cathedral
s Watergate Complex j Arlington National
d Georgetown Cemetery
k The Pentagon

RANKLIN
FRANKLIN M M
AS AS
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202  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

1 United States Capitol

One of the world’s best known symbols of democracy, the US Capitol has been the
legislative heart of America for over 200 years. The cornerstone of this grand Neo-Classical
building was laid by George Washington in 1793, and by 1800 it was occupied, though
unfinished. The British burned the Capitol in the War of 1812, and in 1815 work began on
its restoration. Many architectural and artistic features, such as Constantino Brumidi’s
murals and the Statue of Freedom, were added later. The iconic dome has
undergone major restoration work to fix numerous cracks and deficiencies.

KEY

1 The House Chambers

2 The Hall of Columns is lined
with statues of notable Americans.
3 The Crypt and “geographical
center of Washington”
4 The Dome, made of cast iron
painted to look like marble, is one
of the largest in the world.
5 The Columbus Doors are made
of bronze and depict Christopher
Columbus’ s life and explorations.
6 The Senate Chamber was
completed in 1859.
7 The Brumidi Corridors are lined
with frescoes, bronze works, and
paintings by the Italian artist
Constantino Brumidi (1805–80).

. National Statuary Hall

Statues of prominent citizens
from each state stand in this hall.

2 Library of Thomas Jefferson Building. grand staircases, bronze statues,

Congress In front of it is a fountain with rich murals, and stained-
a striking bronze statue of the glass skylights.
Map F4. 10 1st St, SE. Tel (202) 707- Roman sea god, Neptune. Equally impressive is the
5000. q Capitol S. @ 32, 34, 36, 96.
One of the highlights of this Main Reading Room, where
Open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat.
marvel of art and architecture is eight huge marble columns,
Closed federal hols. 8 7 0 For
access to reading rooms, visitors must
the Great Hall with its splendid and 10-ft (3-m) high female
have a user card obtained from Room marble arches and columns, figures, personifying aspects
LM140 of the Madison Building. of human endeavor, dwarf the
Photo I.D. is essential. ∑ loc.gov reading desks. The domed ceiling
soars to a height of 160 ft (49 m).
The Library of Congress holds There are 10 other reading
the largest collection of books, rooms in the Jefferson Building,
manuscripts, microfilms, maps, notably the African and Asian
and music in the world. First Reading Rooms.
established in the US Capitol in The staircase landing near the
1800, the library was destroyed Visitors’ Gallery, overlooking
when the Capitol was burned in the Main Reading Room, is
1814. Thomas Jefferson then sold dominated by a beautiful marble
the library his personal collection, mosaic figure of Minerva.
for much needed capital, as a The Library’s treasures
replacement, and from this seed include one of only three
the collection continued to grow. perfect vellum copies of the
Since 1897, it has been housed in 15th-century Gutenberg Bible,
a grand Italian Renaissance-style The Great Hall, with its splendid marble the first book printed using
main building, now known as the arches and columns movable metal type.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 WASHINGTON, DC  203

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Map E4. Independence Mall,
between 1st & 3rd Streets, &
Independence & Constitution
Aves (enter via the Capitol Visitor
Center). Tel (202) 224-3121,
recorded information: (202) 225-
6827. Open 8:30am– 4:30pm
Mon–Sat. Closed federal hols.
8 except Sun. 7 =
∑ visitthecapitol.gov

Transport
q Capitol S, Union Station.
@ 32, 34, 36, 96.

. Old Senate Chamber

This sumptuous chamber
was occupied by the US Capitol
. The Rotunda Senate until 1859, and then The Capitol also marks the
Completed in 1824, the 180-ft (55-m) by the Supreme Court for center of Washington, DC. The
Rotunda is capped by Apotheosis 75 years. It is now used city’s four quadrants radiate out
of Washington, a fresco by Brumidi. mainly as museum space. from the middle of the building.

3 US Supreme the US Capitol. Then, at Chief the Authority of the Law stand
Court Justice William Howard Taft’s beside the steps.
urging, Congress authorized The Great Hall that leads to
Map F4. 1st St between E Capitol St &
a separate building to be the courtroom is an expanse of
Maryland Ave NE. Tel (202) 479-3211.
q Capitol S. Open 9am–4:30pm
constructed. The result was a marble, lined with columns and
Mon–Fri. Closed federal hols. 7
magnificent Corinthian edifice the busts of former chief
Lectures: ∑ supremecourtus.gov designed by Cass Gilbert that justices. The elegant court
opened in 1935. Allegorical chamber itself has a coffered
The judicial branch of the US sculptures depicting the plaster ceiling decorated with
government and the highest Contemplation of Justice and gold leaf, and a frieze running
court in the land, the Supreme around the walls that depicts
Court is the last stop in the both real and allegorical legal
disposition of the nation’s legal figures. The exhibit hall has
disputes and issues of consti- displays on legal systems from
tutionality. Groundbreaking around the world and an array
cases settled here include of judges’ robes.
Brown v. Board of Education, Visitors may watch the court
which abolished racial in session from October
segregation in schools, and through April – check the
Miranda v. Arizona, which calendar on the website.
declared that crime suspects Admission is on a first-come,
were entitled to a lawyer before first-served basis. When the
they were interrogated. court is not in session, public
As recently as 1929, the lectures on the Supreme Court
Supreme Court was still The impressive Neo-Classical façade of the are held every hour on the half
meeting in various sections of US Supreme Court hour in the Courtroom.
204  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

The Mall
This boulevard, between the Capitol and the Washington
Monument, stretches for 1 mile (1.6 km) and is the city’s
cultural heart; the many great museums of the Smithsonian
Institution can be found along this green strip. At the
northeast corner of the Mall is the National Gallery of Art.
Directly opposite is one of the most popular museums in
the world – the National Air & Space Museum – a soaring
construction of glass and steel. Both the National Museum
of American History and the National Museum of Natural
History, on the north side of the Mall, draw huge numbers
of visitors. 6 . National Museum of
Natural History
The central Rotunda was designed
in the Neo-Classical style and
opened to the public in 1910.
8 . National Museum of
American History

7TH
From George Washington’s Sculpture
uniform to this flag that Garden
was raised after a victory in

STR
9TH
the War of 1812, US history
is documented here.

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NW
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Smithsonian
Castle, with
its elegant
Victorian
façade, is the
main information W
E S
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S O N D
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activities. JEF

Washington
Monument

0 meters 100

0 yards 100
Freer Gallery of Art
displays masterpieces National Museum of
of American and African Art
7 National Museum
Asian art.
of African Art
Founded in 1965 and
located underground, Arthur M. Sackler Gallery The Arts & Industries Building,
this museum houses holds an extensive collection a masterpiece of Victorian
a comprehensive of Asian art, which was architecture, was built in 1881. The
collection of ancient donated to the nation by building has undergone major reno-
and modern African art. New Yorker Arthur Sackler. vation, but is closed to the public.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 WASHINGTON, DC  205

4 National Air &

Space Museum
Map D5. 601 Independence Ave, SW.
Tel (202) 633-1000. q Smithsonian.
@ 32, 34, 36, 52. Open 10am–
THE MALL
5:30pm daily. Closed Dec 25.
8 10:15am, 1pm. 7 = 0
∑ nasm.si.edu

Opened on America’s
5 . National Gallery of Art Locator Map
This gallery’s fine collection of art Bicentennial on July 1, 1976,
treasures, such as The Alba Madonna Key the Air & Space Museum is
(c.1510) by Raphael, chronicles the Suggested route
today the most visited site in
history of art from the Middle Ages Washington. The museum’s
to the 20th century. entrance leads into the lofty
Milestones of Flight gallery,
NW which displays many of the
UE
A VEN firsts in air and space travel.
N
TIO These include the 1903 Wright
ITU
NST Flyer, the first powered, heavier-
CO
than-air machine to achieve
controlled, sustained flight,
built by the Wright Brothers;
US Capitol the Spirit of St. Louis, in which
Charles Lindbergh made the
National Gallery of Art, first transatlantic solo flight in
W East Building 1927; and the Apollo 11
E N
RIV Command Module, which
S O N D
DI carried astronauts Buzz Aldrin,
MA National Gallery of Art,
Neil Armstrong, and Michael
West Building
Collins on their historic mission
to the moon in 1969. Another
gallery that attracts crowds is
the Space Race, where exhibits
include space suits, a working
model of the Columbia Space
Shuttle, and the Skylab, an
National Museum of
7TH

orbiting workshop for three-

the American Indian
person crews.
STR

An eye-catching exhibit in
the Pioneers of Flight gallery
EET

is the red Lockheed Vega in

E N
W which Amelia Earhart became
NU the first woman to make a solo
NW

E AVE
ENC transatlantic flight in 1932.
ND
EPE The very popular World War II
IND
Aviation gallery displays
fighter aircrafts from the
American, British, German,
and Japanese air forces.

Hirshhorn Museum,
an unusual cylindrical- 4 . National Air &
shaped addition to the Mall, Space Museum
houses contemporary art. The clean, modern design of the
Only a small selection of National Air & Space Museum
the 18,000 works it holds is echoes the technological Milestones of Flight gallery in the National
on display at any one time. marvels on display inside. Air & Space Museum
206  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

Rubens, Goya, El Greco, the Dinosaur Hall, although

and Velasquez. The it is closed until 2019 while a
sculpture galleries here major renovation project is
display decorative arts carried out. Also on the
from the Middle Ages ground floor is Ocean Hall,
to the 20th century. where exhibits explore the
Galleries east of the magnificence of the ocean,
rotunda house an as well as man’s relationship
outstanding collection to it. To the left of the
of French Impressionist Rotunda is an IMAX® Theater
and Post-Impressionist and the Hall of Mammals
art. Among its highlights with its huge 25,000 sq ft of
are Monet’s Woman stunning displays.
with a Parasol, Degas’ On the second floor is the
Four Dancers, and Gems and Minerals collection,
Toulouse-Lautrec’s whose highlight is the 45.52-
Quadrille at the Moulin carat Hope Diamond. The
The façade of the National Gallery of Art Rouge. Portraits by largest deep blue diamond in
John Singer Sargent the world and famed for its
5 National Gallery and James McNeill Whistler are stunning color and clarity, it
of Art among the gallery’s important once belonged to Louis XVI
collection of American paint- of France. Also on the second
Map E4. West Building: Constitution
ings. Adjacent to the West floor is the highly popular
Ave between 4th & 7th Sts, NW.
Building is a Sculpture Garden, Insect Zoo, with its giant
East Building: 4th St between Madison
which is transformed into an hissing cockroaches and large
Drive & Constitution Ave, NW.
Tel (202) 737-4215. q Archives/Navy ice-skating rink in winter. leaf-cutter ant colony.
Memorial, Judiciary Square, Penn The huge East Building is
Quarter, Smithsonian. @ 32, 34, designed to accommodate
36, 70. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, large pieces of modern art.
11am–6pm Sun. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Centered in its courtyard is a
8 call (202) 842-6690. 9 call (202) giant red, blue, and black
842-6176. 7 = ∑ nga.gov mobile by Alexander Calder,
completed in 1976. Near the
One of Washington, DC’s top entrance is a sculpture by Henry
attractions, this superb museum Moore; the atrium displays a
was established when American 1977 tapestry by Joan Miró.
financier Andrew Mellon Elephant exhibit in the Rotunda at the
bequeathed his collection of National Museum of Natural History
European art to form the basis 6 National Museum
of a National Gallery of Art. of Natural History 7 National Museum
Spurred on by his example,
Map D4. Constitution Ave & 10th St,
of African Art
other collectors left their art to
the proposed museum. NW. Tel (202) 633-1000 (recorded Map D5. 950 Independence Ave, SW.
Of the two main buildings, message after museum hours). Tel (202) 633-1000. q Smithsonian.
q Smithsonian. @ 32, 34, 36. Open 10am–5:30pm daily. Closed
the stately Neo-Classical-style
Open 10am–5:30pm daily (later on Dec 25. 8 7 = d ∑ si.edu/
West Building, opened in 1941,
some dates in spring and summer; nmafa
features European art from the
check calendar). Closed Dec 25. 8
13th to the 19th centuries. 10:30am & 1:30pm Mon–Fri. 9 7 This quiet museum is missed
The galleries of the modern East = - d ∑ nmnh.si.edu by many visitors, perhaps
Building are closed until late because much of its exhibition
2016, although the atrium Established in 1910, this vast space is under-ground. The
remains open. An underground museum’s collection of 120 small entrance pavilion at
concourse, with a cafeteria and million artifacts includes samples the ground level leads to three
shops, joins the two buildings. from the world’s diverse subterranean floors where
Matching wings flank a central cultures, as well as fossils and the exhibits are displayed.
rotunda in the West Building. living creatures from land The 7,000-piece permanent
West of the rotunda are the and sea. The museum’s collection includes both
galleries displaying Italian, Dutch, entrance leads into the lofty modern and ancient art from
Flemish, and Spanish art. The Rotunda, where visitors are Africa, although the majority
Italian paintings include works greeted by the impressive of pieces date from the 19th
by Giotto, Botticelli, Raphael and sight of a massive African Bush and 20th centuries. Traditional
Leonardo da Vinci; and other elephant. To the right of the African bronzes, ceramics, and
masterpieces on display include Rotunda is one of the most pottery are on display, as are
works by Rembrandt, Van Dyck, popular areas of the museum, stunning ivory and gold objects,
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 WASHINGTON, DC  207

brightly colored kente textiles collection is an amazing piece

from Ghana, and photographs. of visionary art called Throne of
the Third Heaven of the Nations’
Millennium (c.1950–64), created
8National out of light bulbs, silver and
Museum of gold foil, and old furniture by a
Washington janitor by the name
American History of James Hampton. Among the
Map D4. 14th St & Constitution Ave. 19th- and early 20th-century
Tel (202) 633-1000 (recorded works, the Western landscapes
message outside opening hours). by Albert Bierstadt stand out.
q Smithsonian–Federal Triangle. Especially dramatic is his
@ 32, 34, 36. Open 10am–5:30pm
painting Among the Sierra
daily. Closed Dec 25. 8 7 = 0
Ford’s Model T, in the National Museum of Nevada, California, which
- d ∑ americanhistory.si.edu
American History captures the vastness of the
American West. Another
This museum showcases and offices of the presidency, outstanding work from this
America’s past. A dramatic, to American popular culture period is Achelous and Hercules
central five-story atrium is exhibits, such as the ruby slippers by Thomas Hart Benton (1889–
surrounded by displays of worn by Judy Garland in The 1975). In this mythical analogy
artifacts representing the Wizard of Oz. Spark!Lab and of early American life, Hercules
breadth of the museum’s Wonderplace are two interactive symbolizes man taming the
collection. Fascinating and exhibits designed to encourage wild and then enjoying the
diverse exhibits cover the USA’s children to create and invent fruits of his labor. Works by
cultural, social, technological, (closed Tuesday). Modernists Jasper Johns,
and political history. Andy Warhol, and Robert
The first floor’s east wing Rauschenberg are among the
is devoted to America’s history 9 Smithsonian other treasures of this museum.
of transportation and tech-
nology. Displays range from
American Art The National Portrait Gallery is
America’s family album, featuring
steam locomotives to ancient Museum & National paintings, sculptures, etchings,
gold coins. Another popular Portrait Gallery and photographs of thousands of
exhibit is a Model T Ford. This Map D4. Smithsonian American famous Americans. Assembled
vehicle was an engineering Art Museum: 8th & G Sts NW. here are such diverse works as
landmark that heralded the Tel (202) 633-1000. Open 11:30am– Gilbert Stuart’s famous portrait
beginning of the motor age. 7pm daily. Closed Dec 25. of George Washington (which
Popular exhibits elsewhere ∑ americanart.si.edu features on the one-dollar bill),
include the actual kitchen of National Portrait Gallery: 8th & busts of Dr. Martin Luther King
famous American cook and F Sts NW. Tel (202) 633-1000. Jr. and the poet T.S. Eliot, and
beloved figure Julia Child q Gallery Place–Chinatown. some photographs of actress
(1912–2004), which she used in Open 11:30am–7pm daily. Marilyn Monroe.
her house in Cambridge, Closed Dec 25. 8 7 =
Massachusetts. 0 - d ∑ npg.si.edu
First ladies’ gowns worn
to the presidents’ inaugural Nowhere in Washington
balls are also a memorable is the city’s penchant
exhibit. Jackie Kennedy’s and for copying Greek and
Nancy Reagan’s haute couture Roman architecture
gowns are all kept at the more obvious than in the
museum – as well as Rosalynn former US Patent Office
Carter’s “off the rack” one. building, now the home
Of great historical and cultural of the Smithsonian
significance is the Star-Spangled American Art Museum
Banner that flew over Fort and the National Portrait
McHenry in 1814, and which Gallery. The Patent Office
inspired the Francis Scott Key was converted into the
poem that later became the US twin museums in 1968.
national anthem. The fragile flag The art museum contains
is dramatically displayed in an a wealth of works by
environmentally controlled American artists,
exhibit on the second floor. reflecting the history and
The extent of the museum’s culture of the country.
collection is huge, from science The highlight of the
to objects that represent the lives American folk art George Washington by Gilbert Stuart
208  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

qNational World the early years of the Nazi regime,

War II Memorial with exhibits exposing their ruth-
less persecution of Jews. The
Map C4. 17th St, NW, between
third floor exhibits are devoted
Constitution Ave & Independence
to the “Final Solution,” the killing
Ave. Tel (202) 426-6841.
q Smithsonian or Federal Triangle. of six million “undesirable”
Open 24 hours daily. 8 on request. people. Artifacts include a box
7 ∑ nps.gov/nwwm car that carried prisoners to
concentration camps.
This 7.5-acre (3-ha) memorial On the second floor is the
was built to honor US veteran Hall of Remembrance, which
soldiers and civilians of World houses an eternal flame that
War II. It includes two 43-ft pays homage to the victims of
(13-m) pavilions, symbolic bas- the Holocaust, and the Hall
relief panels, and fifty-six granite of Witness on the first floor
pillars, one for each of the features temporary exhibits.
Washington Monument, which dominates country’s states and territories. At the Concourse Level is
the city skyline These are adorned with bronze the Children’s Tile Wall. Over
wreaths of oak and wheat, 3,000 tiles, painted by children,
0Washington which symbolize the nation’s constitute this moving
Monument agricultural and industrial memorial to the one-and-a-
strength. The memorial was half million children murdered
Map C4. Independence Ave at officially opened to the public in the Holocaust.
17th St, SW. Tel (202) 426-6841, (202) in 2004.
347-5114. q Smithsonian. @ 13, 52.
Open 9am–4:45pm daily. eJefferson
Closed Jul 4, Dec 25. 7 =
Interpretive talks. ∑ nps.gov/wamo
wUnited States Memorial
Holocaust Map C5. S bank of the Tidal Basin.
Constructed from 36,000 pieces
of marble and granite, the 555-ft
Memorial Museum Tel (202) 426-6841. q Smithsonian.
Open 9:30am–11:30pm. Closed Dec
(170-m) tall Washington Map C5. 100 Raoul Wallenberg 25. Interpretive talks: 7 = ∑ nps.
Monument is one of the capital’s Place, SW. Tel (202) 488-0400. gov/thje
most recognizable landmarks, q Smithsonian. @ 13 (Pentagon
clearly visible from almost all shuttle). Open 10am–5:30pm daily When this Neo-Classical-style
over the city. Conceived of as a (extended hours from Mar–Jun: memorial to the third US
tribute to the first president of 10am–6:30pm Mon–Fri). Closed Dec president, Thomas Jefferson
the US, its construction began in 25 & Yom Kippur. Time pass required (1743–1826), was completed in
for permanent exhibit. Advance
1848, but stopped in 1858 when 1943, critics gave it the derisive
passes available via the museum’s
funds ran out. The building work nickname “Jefferson’s Muffin.”
website. 7 ∑ ushmm.org
resumed in 1876 – a slight It was dismissed as far too
change in the color of the stone Opened in 1993, the US “feminine” for so bold and
indicates the point at which Holocaust Memorial Museum influential a man who had
construction stopped and then bears witness to the system- played a significant part
began again. The original design atic persecution and in drafting the Declaration
included a colonnade around annihilation in Europe of Independence in 1776.
the monument, but lack of funds of six million Jews and The dome of this round,
prevented its construction. others deemed colonnaded building
Cleaned to a gleaming white, undesirable by the covers a majestic 19-ft
the monument has a capstone Third Reich. The (6-m) statue of Jefferson,
weighing 3,300 lbs (2,000 kg). museum is meant to be and a museum is housed
It is topped by an aluminum experienced, not just Majestic statue of in the basement of
pyramid, and surrounded by seen. Within the Jefferson the building.
50 flagpoles. The monument exhibition space, which Jefferson Memorial
reopened in 2014 following ranges from the intentionally stands on the banks of the
repairs to damage caused by an claustrophobic to the soaringly scenic Tidal Basin. In the
earthquake in 2011. Exhibits now majestic, are thousands of 1920s, hundreds of Japanese
cover George Washington, the photographs and artifacts, 53 cherry trees were planted
monument’s engineering, and video monitors, and 30 inter- along its shores, and the sight
what happens if lightning strikes. active stations that contain of the trees in bloom is one of
There are stunning views across graphic and emotionally disturb- the most photographed in the
the city from the top (admission ing images of violence, forcing city. Peak blooming time is
is free, but timed tickets are visitors to confront the horror of between mid-March and mid-
required for the elevator; the the Holocaust. Starting from the April. Rental paddle-boats are
stairs are no longer accessible). top, the fourth floor documents available at the Tidal Basin.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 WASHINGTON, DC  209

before building began in 1914

it had to be drained. Concrete
piers were poured for the
foundation so that the building
could be anchored in bedrock.
As the memorial neared
completion, architect Henry
Bacon realized that the statue
of Lincoln would be dwarfed
inside the huge edifice. The
The colonnaded domed Jefferson Memorial, housing the bronze statue original 10-ft (3-m) statue by
Daniel Chester French was
r Franklin D. Dream” speech was delivered, doubled in size and carved
and is aligned along the axis of from 28 blocks of white marble.
Roosevelt the Jefferson Memorial and Engraved on the wall are the
Memorial Lincoln Memorial. words of Lincoln’s famous
Map C5. W Basin Dr, SW.
The centerpiece, a 30-ft Gettysburg Address (see p116).
Tel (202) 426-6841. q Smithsonian. (9.1-m) high relief of Martin
@ 13. Open 8am–midnight daily. Luther King, Jr., stands between
Closed Dec 25. 7 = Interpretive two pieces of granite, and is u Vietnam
programs & talks: ∑ nps.gov/fdrm based on a line from his “I Have Veterans Memorial
a Dream” speech: “Out of a
The memorial to President mountain of despair, a stone Map B4. 21st St & Constitution Ave, NW.
Franklin D. Roosevelt is a of hope”. The memorial is set in Tel (202) 426-6841. q Foggy Bottom.
mammoth park of four granite a quiet and reflective space Open 24 hours; rangers are on hand
surrounded by Yoshino cherry to answer queries from 9:30am–
open-air rooms, one for each
11:30pm daily. 8 on request. 7
of Roosevelt’s terms (see p59). blossom trees.
∑ nps.gov/vive
The first room has the visitor A 450-ft (140-m) inscription
center, and a bas-relief of wall contains quotes from Powerful in its symbolism and
Roosevelt’s first inaugural Dr. King’s many sermons and dramatic in its simplicity, this
parade. In the second room is speeches, commemorating memorial consists of two
a sculpture titled Hunger, those who lost their lives during triangular black walls, set into
recalling the hard times of the the Civil Rights movement, and the earth at an angle of 125
Great Depression. A controversial inspiring the modern world. degrees, one end pointing to
statue of Roosevelt in the third the Lincoln Memorial and
room shows the disabled the other to the Washington
president sitting in a wheelchair y Lincoln Memorial Monument. The walls are
hidden by his Navy cape. inscribed with the names of
Map B4. 900 Ohio Drive SW. Tel (202)
Dramatic waterfalls cascade the Americans who died in the
426-6841. q Smithsonian, Foggy
into a series of pools in the Bottom. Open 24 hours. 8 on Vietnam War, in chronological
fourth room, which also has request. 7 = ∑ nps.gov/linc order from 1959 to 1975.
a statue of Roosevelt’s wife, The site is covered by tokens
Eleanor, and a relief of his The Lincoln Memorial is one of of remembrance placed by
funeral cortege carved into Washington’s most awe-inspiring veterans and their families –
the granite wall. The water sights, with the seated figure of poems, pictures, toys, and
symbolizes the peace that President Abraham Lincoln in flowers – making this one of
Roosevelt was so eager to his Neo-Classical “temple,” the most moving memorials on
achieve before his death. looming over a reflecting pool. the Mall. A more conventional
The site chosen for the memorial was added in 1984 –
monument was a swamp, and a statue of three soldiers.
t Martin Luther
King, Jr. Memorial
Map B5. 1964 Independence Ave SW.
Tel (888) 484-3373. q Smithsonian.
@ 13. Open 24 hours. Rangers are
on hand to answer queries from
9:30am–11:30pm daily. 7
∑ nps.gov/mlkm/

The Martin Luther King, Jr.

Memorial is located at the
northwest corner of the Tidal
Basin, a stone’s throw from
where his famous “I Have a The Lincoln Memorial, one of Washington’s most visited monuments
210  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

i The White House

The official residence of the president, the White House was
designed by Irish-born architect James Hoban. Known as the
Executive Mansion, it was first occupied in 1800 by President
John Adams. Burned by the British in 1814, the partially
rebuilt edifice was reoccupied in 1817. In 1901, President
The White House
Theodore Roosevelt renamed the building the White House The official residence of the
and ordered the West Wing to be built. The East Wing was US president for 200 years,
added in 1942, completing the building as it is today. the White House façade is
familiar to millions of people
Beautifully decorated with period furniture, valuable antiques,
around the world.
and paintings, the White House attracts more than a million
and a half visitors every year.

. State Dining Room

Able to seat as many as 140 people,
the State Dining Room was
enlarged in 1902. A portrait of
President Abraham Lincoln, by
George P.A. Healy, hangs
above the mantel.

KEY

1 The stonework has been painted

over and over to maintain the
building’s white façade.
2 The West Terrace leads to the
West Wing and the Oval Office,
the president’s official office.
3 The East Terrace leads to the
East Wing.
4 The East Room is used for
large gatherings, such as dances
and concerts.
5 Treaty Room
6 The Green Room was first
used as a guest room before . Red Room
Thomas Jefferson turned it into One of four reception rooms, the Red Room
a dining room. is furnished in red in the Empire Style
7 Blue Room (1810–30). The fabrics were woven in the
US from French designs.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 WASHINGTON, DC  211

Lincoln Bedroom VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

President Lincoln used
this room as his Cabinet Practical Information
Room, then turned it into Map C4. 1600 Pennsylvania Ave,
a bedroom, furnishing it NW. Open 7:30am–12:30pm
with Lincoln-era decor. Tue–Sat only for groups with
Today it is used as a Congressional or embassy
guest room. appointments. Contact Visitor
Center for information. Closed
federal hols & official functions.
8 obligatory. ∑ nps.gov
White House Visitor Center: 1450
Pennsylvania Ave, NW. Tel (202)
208-1631. Open 7:30am–4pm
daily. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
Dec 25. = 7 8
∑ nps.gov/whho

Transport
q Federal Triangle.

. Vermeil Room
This ivory room houses seven
paintings of First Ladies, including
this portrait of Eleanor Roosevelt
by Douglas Chandor.

The White House Visitor Center

The Visitor Center has interesting exhibits
about the history of the White House as well
as royal gifts on display. There are also seasonal
lectures by famous speakers on aspects of
history in and out of the White House.
The center has a monthly Living History
program with actors portraying historic
Diplomatic Reception figures. The gift shop carries an extensive
This room is used to range, including the annual White House
welcome friends and Christmas ornament. Tours of the president’s
ambassadors. It is official residence in the White House are
elegantly furnished in extremely limited at this time. Guided tours Façade of the
the Federal Period style can be booked only by special arrangement Visitor Center
(1790–1820). through a member of Congress or an embassy.
212  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

of the center, which was named

in his honor.
Designed by Edward Durrell
Stone, the center opened in
1971. The Grand Foyer,
adorned with a remarkable
bronze bust of Kennedy by
sculptor Robert Berks, stretches
630 ft (192 m) and provides an
impressive entrance to the
three main theaters of this vast
arts complex. In front of the
foyer is the JFK Terrace, which
runs the length of the center
and offers glorious views of the
The magnificent Renwick Gallery, a fine example of French Empire style Potomac River.
Of the three huge theaters,
o Renwick Gallery Camille Corot outside France, the Eisenhower Theater, with a
Map C3. Pennsylvania Ave at 17th St,
and fine examples of African- bronze bust of Eisenhower, is at
NW. Tel (202) 633-1000. q Farragut American art. one end of the foyer. At the
W. Open 10am–5:30pm daily. The Corcoran is currently other end is the Concert Hall,
∑ americanart.si.edu undergoing renovation which seats over 2,400 people
and will reopen as a space and is the home of the
This magnificent red-brick for exhibiting pieces National Symphony
building was designed by James from traveling shows Orchestra. Between them
Renwick in 1859. It originally curated by the is the sumptuous Opera
housed the art collection of National Gallery of House, hung with an
William Wilson Corcoran until it Art (p206), which enormous crystal
was moved to the current will display select chandelier, and with
Corcoran Gallery of Art in 1897. artworks from seating for more than
After efforts by First Lady the collection. The 2,300 people.
Jacqueline Kennedy saved the gallery will further The Opera House
building from destruction, it include iconic is flanked by the
was bought by the Smithsonian. paintings from the Hall of States, with
Refurbished and renamed, orginal Corcoran Lion Statue, guarding the the flags of each of
the Renwick Gallery opened collection, such as Corcoran Gallery the 50 American
in 1972. Frederick Church’s states, and the
In late 2015, the Renwick magnificent painting Niagara, Hall of Nations, with the flags of
reopened after extensive housed in what will be called every country with which the US
renovation work and rededicated The Legacy Gallery. has diplomatic relations. It is
itself to showcasing American undergoing a million-dollar
crafts. The gallery's inaugural expansion that will provide for
exhibition, Wonder, was hugely a The Kennedy state-of-the-art-facilities.
popular and featured large- Center
scale installations on how art
is perceived. Map B4. New Hampshire Ave & Rock
Creek Pkwy, NW. Tel (202) 467-4600.
q Foggy Bottom. @ 80.
p Corcoran Gallery Open 10am– 9pm daily; 10am–9pm
Mon–Sat, noon–9pm Sun & hols (box
of Art office). 8 10am–5pm Mon–Fri,
Map C4. 500 17th St, NW. q Farragut 10am–1pm Sat & Sun (call 416-8340).
7 ∑ kennedy-center.org
W, Farragut N. Open gallery closed
until further notice. Closed Dec 25. In 1958, President Eisenhower
8 7 - = ∑ corcoran.org
signed an act to begin
fundraising for a national cultural
A treasure trove of fine art, center that would attract the
this privately funded collection world’s best opera, music, and
was founded by William Wilson dance companies to the US
Corcoran and houses master- capital. His successor, John F.
pieces by the likes of Rembrandt, Kennedy, was also an ardent
Monet and Renoir. It also has supporter and fundraiser for
the largest collection of this project but he was assassi- The impressive Grand Foyer of the
paintings by Jean-Baptist nated before the completion Kennedy Center
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 WASHINGTON, DC  213

s Watergate
Complex
Map B3. Virginia Ave between Rock
Creek Pkwy & New Hampshire Ave,
NW. q Foggy Bottom-GWU. 7

Located next to the Kennedy

Center on the banks of the
Potomac, the four rounded
buildings that make up the
Watergate Complex were com-
pleted in 1971 and designed
to contain apartments, offices, The picturesque Old Stone House in Georgetown, built in 1765
and shops (today there are no
longer any shops). The wealthy port. Today one of fell out of use with the arrival of
Watergate soon became one Washington, DC’s most the railroad in the 19th century.
of Washington’s most desirable attractive neighborhoods, It is now a protected national
addresses. In 1972, however, Georgetown is lined with park, offering many recreational
the complex found itself at the elegant townhouses, many of facilities. Park rangers in period
center of international news. them converted into upscale costume guide tours of the
Burglars, linked to President bars, restaurants, and boutiques. canal in mule-drawn barges,
Nixon, broke into the offices of The two main business streets and boating is also popular,
the Democratic Party head- of the area are Wisconsin especially between George-
quarters in the complex to bug Avenue and M Street. On the town and Violette’s Lock – the
the telephones there, sparking latter is the historic Old Stone first 22 miles (35 km) of the canal.
off a major political scandal. House (built in 1765), which The towpath along the canal is
Investigations by Washington Post may be the only building in ideal for walks and bike rides.
reporters Bob Woodward and Washington that predates the A major center of activity in
Carl Bernstein uncovered the American Revolution. N Street, this district is Georgetown
extent of the president’s involve- lined with historic buildings, University, founded in 1789.
ment through incriminating tapes has an array of 18th-century Among the historic buildings
and proven bribery. This led to Federal-style mansions, as well on its campus is the Gothic-
an impeachment hearing, but as some fine Victorian inspired Healy Building, topped
before Mr. Nixon could be townhouses. The 1794 Thomas by a fanciful spiral.
impeached, he resigned. Vice- Beall House (number 3017), Sprawling over 22 acres (9 ha)
President Gerald Ford succeeded is where Jackie Kennedy lived of land in Georgetown is the
him. The complex is undergoing for a year after JFK’s death. historic Dumbarton Oaks
renovation work. More Federal houses can be estate. Its superbly landscaped
seen lining the banks of the gardens surround a grand
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, Federal-style brick mansion,
d Georgetown which was built in 1828 and which houses a priceless art
runs for 184 miles (296 km) from collection assembled by
Map A3. Old Stone House: 3051 M St,
Georgetown to Cumberland, pharmaceutical heirs Robert
NW. Tel (202) 426-6851. Open noon–
5pm Wed–Sun. @ 30, 32, 34, 36, 38. Maryland. The canal, with its and Mildred Bliss.
7 ∑ nps.gov/olst Georgetown ingenious transportation system The historic Dumbarton
University: 37th & O Sts, NW. Tel (202) of locks, aqueducts, and tunnels, Oaks Conference, attended by
687-0100. Open varies. 8 call 687- President Franklin Roosevelt
3600 for details. 7 ∑ georgetown. and British Prime Minister
edu Dumbarton Oaks: 1703 32nd St, Winston Churchill, was held in
NW. Tel (202) 339-6401. Open 2–5pm the music room of this house
Tue–Sun. Closed Federal hols, Dec 24. in 1944, laying the groundwork
& 8 7 house only. ∑ doaks.org for the establishment of the
United Nations.
Georgetown developed well The Blisses donated the house
before Washington, DC. Native to Harvard University, and it
Americans had a settlement now houses a library, research
here, and by the mid-18th institution, and museum, the
century Georgetown had a highlight of which is its superb
substantial population of collection of Byzantine art. A
immigrants from Scotland. new wing of the house, designed
With the construction of by Philip Johnson, houses pre-
Washington Harbor and the Columbian masks, gold jewelry
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal in The PNC Bank, on Wisconsin Avenue from Central America, frescoes,
1828, it soon grew into a in Georgetown and Aztec carvings.
214  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

The zoo’s most famous

residents are the giant pandas,
Mei Xiang, Tian Tian, and baby
Bei Bei who can be seen
roaming around the large trees,
pools, and air-conditioned
outdoor grottos in the Giant
Panda Exhibit.
Equally popular with visitors is
the Great Ape House, which
houses lowland gorillas, each
weighing around 400 lbs (180 kg),
and arboreal orangutans.
The Reptile Discovery Center
features the rare Komodo
dragons, lizards that can grow
up to a length of 10 ft (3 m) and
Auguste Renoir’s masterpiece, The Luncheon of the Boating Party (1881) weigh up to 200 lbs (90 kg).
In Amazonia, which
f Phillips Collection Music Room, with performances re-creates the lush green
by classical artists of world Amazonian habitat, visitors can
1600 21st St at Q St, NW. Tel (202) 387-
2151. q Dupont Circle. Open
renown. These popular concerts see poison arrow frogs and
10am–5pm Tue–Wed & Fri–Sat, are free to anyone who has giant catfish, while the Asia
10am–8:30pm Thu, 11am–6pm Sun. purchased a ticket for the Trail features red pandas and
Closed Mon, Jan 1, Jul 4, Thanksg., gallery on that day. sloth bears.
Dec 25. & 8 11am Fri & Sat. 7 Other rare creatures include
∑ phillipscollection.org the endangered Golden Lion
g National Tamarins and red wolves.
This is one of the finest Zoological Park
collections of Impressionist art 3001 Connecticut Ave, NW. Tel (202) h Washington
in the world, and the first 673-4800. q Cleveland Park, Woodley
museum in the US devoted to Park-Zoo. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
National Cathedral
modern art of the 19th and 20th daily (buildings), 6am–8pm daily Massachusetts & Wisconsin Aves, NW.
centuries. Housed in the beautiful (grounds); Oct–Apr: 10am–4:30pm Tel (202) 537-6200. @ 32, 34, 36.
1897 Georgian Revival mansion daily (buildings), 6am–6pm daily Open 10am–3:30pm Mon–Sat, 12:45–
of the collection’s founders, (grounds). Closed Dec 25. 4pm Sun. & (free entry to garden).
Marjorie and Duncan Phillips, 8 call (202) 673-4671. 7 = - 8 group reservations call 537-6207.
this museum has a more ∑ natzoo.si.edu/ 9 7 - = 5 noon Mon–Sat,
intimate and personal ambience hourly 8am–11am & 4pm & 6:30pm
than the larger Smithsonian Located in a sprawling 163-acre Sun, 5:30pm Mon–Fri, 4pm Sat & Sun.
∑ nationalcathedral.org
art museums. (66-ha) park designed by
Among the wonderful Frederick Law Olmsted (the
selection of Impressionist and landscape designer of New The building of the Church
Post-Impressionist works on York’s Central Park), the National of St. Peter and St. Paul (its
display are Dancers at the Barre Zoo was established in 1887. official name) was financed
by Degas, Self-Portrait by Since 1964 it has been part of entirely by donations. It is the
Cezanne, Entrance to the Public the Smithsonian Institution, world’s sixth largest cathedral,
Gardens at Arles by Van Gogh, which has developed it as a measuring 518 ft (158 m) in
and Renoir’s masterpiece, dynamic “biopark” where length and 301 ft (95 m) from
The Luncheon of the Boating animals are studied in the ground to the top of the
Party (1881). environments that replicate central tower. It uses building
Other great paintings in the their natural habitats. techniques of the Gothic style
collection include El Greco’s of architecture, evident in the
The Repentant Saint Peter (1600), pointed arches, rib vaulting,
The Blue Room (1901) by Picasso, and exterior flying buttresses.
Piet Mondrian’s Composition No Inside, sculpture, needlework,
III (1921–25), and Ochre on Red wrought iron, and wood carving
(1954) by Mark Rothko. depict the nation’s history and
The museum hosts a number biblical scenes.
of special events, such as Above the west entrance is
gallery talks, film retrospectives, a splendid relief of The Creation
and live jazz concerts. Especially by Frederick Hart, which depicts
popular are its Sunday after- The Komodo dragon, a huge species of mankind being formed from
noon concerts, staged in the lizard, in the National Zoological Park chaos. The pinnacles on the

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 WASHINGTON, DC  215

never found or identified. Its military cemetery. The house,

four vaults are for soldiers from now a memorial to the general,
World Wars I and II, Korea, and is open to visitors.
Vietnam. Each vault held one
unidentified soldier until 1998,
when the Vietnam soldier was k The Pentagon
identified by DNA analysis and 1000 Defense Pentagon,
reburied in his hometown. Hwy 1-395, Arlington, VA.
Near it is the Memorial Tel (703) 697-1776. q Pentagon.
Amphitheater, which has 8 9am–3pm Mon–Fri; book online
hosted many state funerals, at pentagontours.osd.mil
and where annual services are ∑ pentagon.afis.osd.mil
held on Memorial Day.
North of the Tomb of the The world’s largest office
Unknowns, an eternal flame building, the Pentagon is almost
burns at the Grave of John F. a city in itself. This enormous
Kennedy, lit by his wife edifice houses 23,000 people
Jacqueline on the day of his who work for the US Department
funeral in December 1963. of Defense, which includes
Gothic-style architecture of the Washington She and their infant son Patrick the Army, Navy, and Airforce,
National Cathedral and an unnamed stillborn and 14 other defense agencies.
daughter are buried next to Despite its enormous size – it
Cathedral towers are decorated the late president. His brother has 17.5 miles (28 km) of
with leaf-shaped ornaments. Robert F. Kennedy is nearby. corridors, and the entire US
Above the south entrance is Close to Arlington House is Capitol could fit into one of its
an exquisite stained-glass Rose the imposing Tomb of Pierre five wedge-shaped sections –
Window, while in the nave L’Enfant, the French architect the building’s efficient design
another stained-glass responsible for planning ensures that it takes no more
window commemorates the city of Washington. than seven minutes to walk
the Apollo 11 space The cemetery also between any two points in the
flight and contains houses poignant Pentagon. Designed by army
a sliver of moon memorials to engineers, it is built from sand
rock. The High the victims of and gravel dredged from the
Altar has carvings the Lockerbie Potomac and molded into
of 110 figures The Creation, National air crash and the concrete. The building was
surrounding the Cathedral Challenger Space started in September 1941,
central statue of Shuttle, which and completed in January
Christ. The floor in front of the exploded seconds after take- 1943 at a cost of $83 million.
altar has stone from Mount off in January 1986. The headquarters of the US
Sinai. By the Children’s Chapel, The grand Georgian-Revival military establishment and the
built to the scale of a six-year- mansion at the top of the hill, ultimate symbol of America’s
old, is a statue of Jesus as a boy. above the Kennedy graves, is military might, the Pentagon
Arlington House, which was was one of the targets of
j Arlington
the home of the Confederate terrorists who flew a hijacked
general Robert E. Lee (1807–70). American Airlines plane into
National Cemetery When Lee left his home in 1861 one side of the building on
Arlington, VA. Tel (877) 907-8585. to lead Virginia’s armed forces September 11, 2001, killing
q Arlington National Cemetery. during the Civil War, the Union 189 people. It has now been
Open Apr–Sep: 8am–7pm daily; confiscated the estate for a completely restored.
Oct–Mar: 8am–5pm daily.
Closed Dec 25. 8 7

A sea of simple headstones

covers Arlington National
Cemetery, marking the graves
of around 400,000 American
servicemen killed in the nation’s
major conflicts – from the
Revolution to the present. The
focus of the cemetery, which
sprawls over 624 acres (252 ha)
of a hillside, is the Tomb of the
Unknowns, honoring the
thousands whose bodies were Uniform rows of headstones in Arlington National Cemetery
216  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

Virginia On the same street is the

Stabler Leadbeater Apothecary
There is enough history and natural beauty in Virginia to Shop, established in 1792.
satisfy the most avid sightseer. Mount Vernon, the perfectly When it closed in 1933, the
preserved home of President George Washington, is close doors were locked with all its
contents intact. Now reopened
to Washington, DC. In eastern Virginia is the old capital,
as a museum, the shop’s 8,000
Williamsburg, a living museum of the Colonial era. To its original objects include huge
west, the Skyline Drive reveals the spectacular beauty of the mortars and pestles, and jars of
Shenandoah National Park and the Blue Ridge Mountains. herbal remedies.
The state capital, Richmond, retains a charming Old South aura. The Boyhood Home of
Robert E. Lee, a Federal
townhouse where General Lee
2 Alexandria (see p197) lived from the age of
* 128,000. £ Union Station,
11 until he went to the West
110 Callahan St. q King Street. Point Military Academy, is
n Ramsay House Visitor Center, currently a private residence
221 King St (703) 746-3301. and not open to the public.
∑ visitalexandriava.com The Lee-Fendall House
Museum nearby is rich with
Old Town Alexandria has kept artifacts from the Revolution
a special historical flavor, dating to the 1930s Labor Movement.
back to its incorporation in To its south is the 1773 Christ
1749. Accessible by Metro from Church, a Georgian edifice
Washington, Alexandria is still a Façade of the elegant Carlyle House, built in where George Washington’s
busy port, with its lively Market 1752, Alexandria pew is still preserved with
Square. Its tree-lined streets are his nameplate, as is that of
filled with elegant, historic Street. A guided tour of the Robert E. Lee.
buildings, among them the house, now beautifully restored, On Union Street is the
1753 Carlyle House, a Georgian provides fascinating details Torpedo Factory Art Center,
Palladian mansion on Fairfax about 18th-century everday life. displaying the work of local

3 George Washington’s Mount Vernon Estate

The Kitchen, set slightly
This country estate on the Potomac River was George apart from the main
Washington’s home for 45 years. The house is furnished house, has been
completely restored.
as it would have been during Washington’s presidency
(1789–97), and the 500-acre (202-ha) grounds still retain
aspects of the original farm, such as the flower and vegetable
gardens, the sheep paddock, and quarters for the slaves who
worked the plantation.

The Mansion Tour shows

visitors the study and dining
room, Washington’s bedroom,
and the bed in which he died.

Overseer’s House

The Upper Garden

The plants in this colorful garden The Slave Quarters housed
replicate those grown in the estate’s slaves. Washington
Washington’s time. freed all his slaves in his will.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 VIRGINIA  217

artists and craftsmen. From

the nearby waterfront, there are
boat tours on the Potomac River.
The Farmers Market in the
center of town dates back to 1753,
and George Washington regularly
sent produce from his farm at
Mount Vernon to be sold here.
Today, shoppers can find fresh
vegetables and fruit, flowers, baked
goods, preserves, and local crafts.
The elegant dining room at Kenmore House, Fredericksburg
P Carlyle House
121 N Fairfax St. Tel (703) 549-2997. 4 Fredericksburg Kenmore Plantation and
Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat, noon– Gardens, also in the heart of
* 22,600. £ @ n 706 Caroline St,
5pm Sun; Nov–Mar: last tour 4pm. town, has beautiful rooms and
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, (800) 678-4748. Open 9am–5pm daily
(Memorial Day & Labor Day until 7pm). gardens. The town’s visitor center
Dec 25. & 8 7 =
Closed Dec 25. ∑ fredericks offers horse-and- carriage or
E Lee-Fendall House Museum burgva.com trolley tours. The battlefields
614 Oronoco St. Tel (703) 548-1789. evoke the Union’s long push
Open 1–4pm Fri & Sun, 10am–4pm Fredericksburg’s attractions are toward Richmond during the
Sat (call ahead to confirm). its historic downtown district Civil War (see p56).
Closed Dec 25–Jan 31 (except 3rd and four Civil War battlefields,
Sun, Lee’s birthday celebration). & including those at Chancellorsville P Kenmore Plantation
8 7 ∑ leefendallhouse.org and The Wilderness. The Rising & Gardens
E Torpedo Factory Art Center Sun Tavern and Hugh Mercer 1201 Washington Ave. Tel (540) 373-
105 N Union St. Tel (703) 838-4565. Apothecary Shop in the old 3381. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm
Open 10am–6pm daily (to 9pm Thu). downtown offer living history Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun; Nov–Dec:
Closed Jan 1, Easter, Jul 4, accounts of life in a town that 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm Sun.
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 7 began as a 50-acre (20-ha) port Closed Jan–Feb, Thanksgiving,
∑ torpedofactory.org on the Rappahannock River. Dec 24–25, 31. ∑ kenmore.org

Stable The Wharf is on VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Coach the same site as it
House Pioneer was in Washington’s Practical Information
Farm time. Today, visitors S end of George Washington
who come on day- Memorial Pkwy, Fairfax County,
trip boats from VA. Tel (703) 780-2000.
Washington, DC, Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm
disembark at this daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm daily.
point. Potomac & 8 9 7 first floor. =
cruise boats also 0-
stop off here. ∑ mountvernon.org

Transport
q Yellow line to Huntington
Station. @ Fairfax Connector bus
101 to Mount Vernon: call (703)
Washington’s 339-7200. Tour bus services &
Tomb was boat cruises available.
completed only
in 1831, though
he died in 1799.

The Lower Garden

was used for grow-
ing vegetables
and berries. The Pioneer Farm
This exhibit demonstrates farming techniques
The Bowling Green pioneered by Washington. There is also a replica
was added to the estate of his unique 16-sided treading barn, created
by Washington. using authentic tools.
218  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

5 Colonial Williamsburg Courthouse

Built in 1770–71 this was the
As Virginia’s capital from 1699 to 1780, Williamsburg was home of the county court for
more than 150 years.
the hub of the loyal British colony. After 1780 the town went
into decline. Then in 1926, John D. Rockefeller embarked
on a massive restoration project. Today, in the midst of
the modern-day city, the 18th-century city has been
re-created. People in colonial dress portray the
lifestyle of the original townspeople; blacksmiths,
silversmiths, cabinetmakers, and bakers show off
their skills; and horse-drawn carriages pass
through the streets, providing visitors with
a fascinating insight into America’s past.

ST
ET

D
RE

AN
ET
ST

GL
RE

ET
AU

EN
ST

RE
SS

H
ST
CE
NA

RT
LA

CE

NO
PA

LA
PA

ST
N
EE
QU

. Governor’s Palace
Originally built in 1720 by
Governor Alexander
Spotswood, the palace has
been reconstructed in its
full pre-Revolution glory.

0 meters 200

0 yards 200

Nursery
Costumed living-history
interpreters work the
land in Colonial
Williamsburg using
replica tools and the
same techniques as the
original settlers.

Robertson’s Windmill
This reproduction stands on the
site of the original 1723 windmill.
The cart was a traditional means
of transporting materials. Settlers’
crafts are demonstrated nearby.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 VIRGINIA  219

. Print Office VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This store stocks
authentic 18th- Practical Information
century foods, n (888)-965-7254. & 8
including wine, ∑ colonialwilliamsburg.com
Virginia ham,
and peanuts. Transport
£ @ 421 N Boundary St.

Milliner
Owned by Margaret Hunter, the
milliner shop stocked a wide range
of items. Imported clothes for
women and children, jewelry, and
toys could all be bought here.

Raleigh Tavern
The Raleigh was once an
important center for social,
political, and commercial
gatherings. The building burned
in 1859, but this reproduction
evokes the original spirit.

NI
CH
ST

OL
SO
AL

N
ST
RE
NI

ET
ST
LO

T
CO

UR
TO

DU
TE

KE
OF
BO

GL
OU
CE
ST
ER
ST
RE
ET

Key
. Capitol
This is a 1945 reconstruction of the original 1705 building. Suggested route
The government resided in the West Wing, while the
General Court was in the East Wing.
220  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

8 Richmond
* 198,300. £ @ n 401 N Third St,
(800) 370-9004. ∑ visitrichmond
va.com

The old capital of the

Confederacy (see p57), Richmond
still retains an aura of Old South
gentility. Bronze statues of Civil
War generals and other heroes
line Monument Avenue, while
Victorian mansions and
brownstones testify to this
Jamestown Settlement, a re-creation of Colonial James Fort area’s postwar prosperity.
Civil War artifacts, including
6 Jamestown & 7 Norfolk General Robert E. Lee’s coat
Yorktown * 262,000. k £ @ n 232 E
and sword, are among the
exhibits at the Museum of
n Jamestown Settlement & Main St, (800) 368-3097, (757) 664-
6620. ∑ visitnorfolktoday.com the Confederacy. Next door,
Yorktown Victory Center, (757) 253- the White House of the
4838. ∑ historyisfun.org A historic Colonial port, located Confederacy is a treasure of
at the point where Chesapeake the Victorian age.
Jamestown, established in 1607 Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean, The graceful Neo-Classical
on the banks of the James River, Norfolk is a busy maritime center State Capitol dominating
was the first permanent English with the world’s largest naval downtown houses a life-size
settlement in the US. One of the base. The city’s logo, a mermaid, sculpture of George
early settlers was John Rolfe, is the theme of sculptures and Washington by Jean Antoine
who married Pocahontas, emblems all over Norfolk. The Houdon. To its west is the
daughter of the Native American downtown water front centers serene Hollywood Cemetery,
chief, Powhatan. But the colony on the massive battleship USS the resting place of presidents
didn’t last long – disease, famine, Wisconsin, a part of the Nauticus, John Tyler and James Monroe,
and attacks by the Algonquins The National Maritime Center. as well as of 18,000 Confederate
caused heavy loss of life and in The center offers multimedia soldiers who are buried under
1699, the colony was abandoned. presentations about naval a communal pyramid.
Present-day Jamestown Island battles, ships, and deep- Palmer Chapel
contains 1,500 acres (607 ha) of sea creatures. offers superb
marshland and forest. The Another top views of James
Jamestown Settlement is a re- attraction is the River and Belle Isle.
creation of the original colony, Chrysler Museum Farther uptown are
complete with costumed inter- of Art, which displays two fine museums,
preters and replicas of James Fort, the eclectic personal the fascinating
a Native American village, and collection of Statue of Robert E. Lee in Science Museum
the ships that brought the first automobile tycoon Richmond of Virginia and the
successful colonists to Virginia. Walter Chrysler Jr. Virginia Museum
On the opposite side of the The works of art include of Fine Arts, which has
peninsula, 15 miles (24 km) away, paintings by Velasquez, Rubens, collections ranging from
Yorktown was the site of the Degas, Renoir, and modern ancient Egyptian, Indian, and
decisive battle of the American masters such as Roy Lichtenstein. Himalayan art to French
Revolution in 1781. Battlefield Neighboring Virginia Beach is Impressionist and modern
tours at Colonial National the site of the 18th-century American masterpieces.
Historical Park explain the siege lighthouse at Cape Henry, The museum’s highlight,
at Yorktown, which ended with where the English first landed in however, is the priceless Pratt
the surrender of the British forces. 1607. The waterfront is also Collection of Imperial Russian
home to the Virginia Aquarium Art, which includes five fabulous
E Jamestown Settlement and Marine Science Museum. jeweled Easter eggs made for
Tel (757) 856-1200, (888) 593-4682. the Tsar by the jeweler Peter
Open 9am–5pm daily (to 6pm Jun E Nauticus, The National Carl Fabergé.
15–Aug 15). Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Maritime Center
& 7 = ∑ historyisfun.org 1 Waterside Dr. Tel (757) 664-1000. E Virginia Museum of Fine Arts
Y Colonial National Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon– 200 North Blvd. Tel (804) 340-1400.
Historical Park 5pm Sun; Jun 1–Sep 1: 10am–5pm Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun.
Tel (757) 898-3400. Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Mon, Thanksgiving, Closed Mon–Tue, Jan 1, Jul 4,
daily. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Jan 1, Dec 24 & 25. & 7 = Thanksg., Dec 25. & only exhibitions.
Dec 25. ∑ nps.gov/colo ∑ nauticus.org 7 - = ∑ vmfa.museum

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 VIRGINIA  221

9 Chincoteague 0 Charlottesville evidence suggests that one

* 4,300. n 4099 Bradley Lane, * 45,000. £ @ n 610 E Main St,
of them, Sally Hemmings,
(757) 336-6161. ∑ chinco (434) 293-6789, (877) 386-1103.
bore Jefferson’s child.
teague.com ∑ visitcharlottesville.org The obelisk over Jefferson’s
grave in the family cemetery
The main tourist attraction Charlottesville was Thomas lauds him as “Father of the
on Virginia’s sparsely developed Jefferson’s hometown. It is University of Virginia.” The
Eastern Shore, Chincoteague dominated by the University of university’s Neo-Classical
draws fishermen, bird-watchers, Virginia, which he founded and buildings and grounds are
and beachcombers. The town designed, and also by his open to visitors. Vineyards and
itself is primarily a service home, Monticello. wineries surround
center, with hotels, motels, and It took Jefferson Charlottesville. Michie
restaurants catering to visitors 40 years to complete Tavern (see p238), joined
bound for the Chincoteague Monticello, which he to the Virginia Wine
National Wildlife Refuge, which began building in 1769. Museum, has been
protects several offshore islands, It is now one of the most restored to its 18th-
as well as coastal marshlands celebrated houses in century appearance and
and a 10-mile (16-km) stretch of the country. The entrance serves typical Southern
Atlantic Ocean beachfront. hall doubled as a private cuisine. Montpelier, on a
A driving tour loops for over museum, and the 2,500-acre (1,012-ha)
3 miles (4.8 km) through the library held a collection site, 25 miles (40 km)
wildlife preserve, but the best of around 6,700 books. to the north, was
way to see some of the numer- The 5,000-acre the home of the
ous egrets, snow geese, herons, (2,023-ha) grounds fourth president,
falcons, and other birds found include a large The obelisk over James Madison.
here is by walking or paddling terraced vegetable Jefferson’s grave
in a canoe. garden where Jefferson grew P Monticello
and experimented with varieties. Route 53, 3 miles (4.8 km) SE of
O Chincoteague National The remains of the slaves’ Charlottesville. Tel (434) 984-9800.
Wildlife Refuge quarters still stand; nearly 200 Open Mar–Oct: 8am–5pm; Nov–Feb:
Tel (757) 336-6122. Open 6am–6pm slaves worked the estate’s 9am–4:30pm. Closed Dec 25. & 8
daily. & 7 limited. 7 = ∑ monticello.org
plantations, and recent

Monticello, Charlottesville
Situated in the leafy foothills of the East portico
Blue Ridge Mountains, this Palladian
masterpiece was built between 1769
and 1809 by Thomas Jefferson. The greenhouse
was used by
Jefferson to
cultivate a variety
of plants.

North
piazza
Jefferson’s bed
straddles his
cabinet (office)
and bed chamber.
The entrance hall, where guests
and visitors were greeted, is also
a museum.
222  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

w Blue Ridge
Parkway
Tel (828) 271-4779.
∑ blueridgeparkway.org

Stretching for 469 miles

(755 km) along the crest of the
Appalachian Mountains, the Blue
Ridge Parkway (see p51) extends
from the southern border of
Shenandoah National Park all the
way to North Carolina, ending
finally at Great Smoky Mountains
National Park (see p264). Created
as a public works project during
the “New Deal” era in the depths
of the 1930s Great Depression,
the scenic route was begun in
1935 but was not completed
until 1987. Mileposts along
the way, measured from north
to south, help travelers discover
the points of interest along
the route. Some of the
highlights along the 216-mile
A reconstructed building, Appomattox Court House National Historical Park (348-km) portion of the Blue
Ridge Parkway in Virginia
q Appomattox Lee realized that victory was include a crossing of the James
Court House impossible. The terms of
surrender were generous, since
River at milepost 63 and the
lakefront lodge in the Peaks of
National Union leaders hoped to promote Otter section near milepost 86.
Historical Park reconciliation. When the The historic Mabry Mill at
n (877) AT BLUE GREY, (434) 352- Confederates laid down their milepost 176 was in use as a
8987. Open 9am–5pm daily. arms, the Northern soldiers backwoods sawmill and
Closed Jan 1, Martin Luther King Day, saluted their opponents. blacksmith shop until 1935.
Presidents Day, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. Much of the original setting This parkway passes through
& 7 ∑ nps.gov/apco was destroyed in battle or later Asheville, North Carolina, and
dismantled by souvenir Roanoke, Virginia, and is
This National Historic Park, hunters. Most of what stands primarily rural and scenic, with
located 3 miles (4.8 km) north- here today was reconstructed no advertising or commercial
east of the town of Appomattox, by the National Park Service traffic allowed. Open all year,
re-creates the spot where in the 1940s. the peak travel season is fall.
Confederate General Robert E.
Lee surrendered to US General
Ulysses S. Grant to signal the
end of the Civil War (see p197).
Today, markers trace the sites of
the last skirmishes of the war,
and 27 reconstructed and
restored buildings replicate the
scene where, on April 9, 1865,
the two leaders and their armies
put an end to that long, destruc-
tive war. In the last months of
fighting, General Grant had
captured the Confederate strong-
hold at Petersburg, while
General Sherman’s “March to
the Sea” across Georgia
surrounded Confederate forces
from the South. With the fall
of the Confederate capital at
Richmond on April 2, General The picturesque Mabry Mill at milepost 176 of the Blue Ridge Parkway
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 VIRGINIA  223

e Skyline Drive
North
Skyline Drive runs along the backbone of
entrance
the Shenandoah National Park’s Blue station
Ridge Mountains. Originally farmland,
the government designated
the area a national park
in 1926. Deer, wild turkey,
bears, and bobcats inhabit
the park, and wildflowers, 1 Pinnacles
azaleas, and mountain Overlook
laurel are abundant. The view of Old
The park’s many hiking Rag Mountain
2 Whiteoak Canyon with its
trails and its 75 view- outcroppings
The Whiteoak Canyon
points offer stunning Trail passes six waterfalls of granite
natural scenery. on its route. J
is spectacular.

3 Big Meadows
Close to the visitor
center, this meadow
J
retains its centuries-
5 Bearfence Mountain old state. It was
Although this is a bit of a climb, partly on probably kept clear
rock scramble, it is not too difficult, and the by fires or lightning
reward is a breathtaking 360-degree view of strikes. Herds of deer
the surrounding landscape. J can be seen.

Key 4 Rapidan Camp

Hiking route At the end of Mill Prong Trail, this
164-acre (66-ha) resort was
Road President Hoover’s weekend
retreat until 1932, when he
0 km 10 donated it to the park.
0 miles 10
6 Lewis Mountain
Quaint cabins, a campground,
picnic area, camp store, laundry,
and showers provide for
campers and hikers here.
Tips for Walkers
Starting point: North at Front
Royal, central at Thornton Gap
or Swift Run Gap, south at
Rockfish Gap.
Length: 105 miles (168 km),
duration of 4–8 hrs depending
on the number of stops.
When to go: Mid-October for fall
leaf colors; spring and summer
for wildflowers.
What it costs: No fee to travel
the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Fall in Shenandoah National Park
224  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

West Virginia Knob-Seneca Rocks National

Recreation Area draws
Set entirely within the Appalachian Mountains, this rockclimbers up the sandstone
“Mountain State” remains largely forested, despite centuries strata of Seneca Rocks, an hour’s
of aggressive lumbering and mining. The state was part of drive away. The 75-mile (121-km)
Greenbrier River Trail, running
Virginia until the Civil War, and its early European pioneers
parallel to the Virginia border,
were less wealthy and generally very different from the from White Sulphur Springs in
genteel planters of eastern Virginia. As talk of secession grew, the south all the way to the Cass
western Virginia aligned with the Union. Four years after Scenic Railroad State Park in the
abolitionist John Brown raided a federal arsenal in Harpers north, is a converted “rails-to-
Ferry in a failed attempt to inspire a slave rebellion in 1859, trails” rail-bed route, which is
quite popular for bicycle tours.
West Virginia was declared a separate state. Today it is known
for its woodworking, quilting, and basketry crafts, and } Spruce Knob-Seneca Rocks
traditional Appalachian music and dancing. National Rec. Area
n (304) 567-2827. Open May–Sep:
9am–4:30pm Wed–Sun; Nov–Apr:
9am–4:30 pm Sat–Sun. 7
} Cass Scenic Railroad
Route 66/Main St, Cass. Tel (304) 456-
4300. Open late May–Oct. 7
∑ cassrailroad.com

t New River Gorge

National River
Canyon Rim Visitor Center: US Hwy 19,
Lansing. Tel (304) 456-4300. Open
8am–4:30pm daily. Closed Jan 1,
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 7 ∑ nps.
Blackwater Falls State Park, in Monongahela National Forest gov/neri

r Monongahela forest, makes a convenient base The New River courses

to explore the area. The town’s through a deep gorge in
National Forest Augusta Heritage Center hosts the southeastern corner of the
200 Sycamore St, Elkins. Tel (304) 636- residential summer programs state, drawing rafters for some
1800. Open 8am–4:45pm Mon–Fri. on traditional folklife and folk of the most exciting white-
∑ fs.udsa.gov/mnf arts, as well as bluegrass and water adventures in the
old-time mountain music eastern US. The National Park
The eastern half of the state dances and concerts. Service, located between
lies deep within the Allegheny Northeast of Elkins, an 8-mile Fayetteville and Hinton,
Mountains, a part of the longer (13-km) stretch of the 124-mile oversees a stretch that falls
Appalachian Range. Much of (200-km) Allegheny Trail links 750 ft (225 m) within 50 miles
this rugged terrain is protected two state parks – Canaan Valley (80 km), with a compact set of
as the vast Monongahela Resort State Park, a downhill ski
National Forest, which encom- resort, and Blackwater Falls
passes five federally designated State Park, a good place for
wilderness areas and serves as backcountry ski touring. Both
the headwaters for six major parks have restaurants and
river systems. Its landscapes of provide facilities for lodging and
rhododendron, black cherry, camping. Farther south,
highland bogs, blueberry Snowshoe Mountain Resort is
thickets, and exposed rocks the state’s largest downhill
are the habitat for black bear, resort in winter and a mountain
white-tailed deer, bobcat, otter, biking center from spring to fall
mink, and many other species. (rentals and guided trips are
The forest’s trails attract hikers, available). The nearby Cass
horseback riders, and mountain Scenic Railroad State Park
bikers, while in winter, the area organizes vintage steam train
is popular for downhill and rides across the mountaintops
cross-country skiing. for panoramic views. Fall foliage
The small town of Elkins, the rides are the most popular. Rock climber above New River Gorge
headquarters of the national Southeast of Elkins, the Spruce National River
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 WEST VIRGINIA  225

downtown area is today the

Harpers Ferry National
Historic Park. It was here in
1859, that Maryland abolitionist
John Brown led an ill-fated
raid on the federal arsenal.
Although his attempt failed,
this event ignited the Civil War
two years later.
The town looks just as it did
in the 19th century, with
small clapboard storefronts
clinging to steep hillsides that
slope down to the rushing
rivers. Several historic
buildings, including John
Overlook at Hawk’s Nest State Park, New River Gorge National River Brown’s Fort and the arsenal,
are open to visitors.
Class V rapids. The modern O Hawk’s Nest State Park The famous Appalachian Trail
Canyon Rim Visitor Center Hwy 60, Ansted. Tel (304) 658-5212. (see p182–3), which runs through
and gorge bridge provide & Tram Rides, Boat Rides: Call for town, has its headquarters at
easy access to panoramic seasonal operating days and hours. the Appalachian Trail
overlooks and rim hiking trails. ∑ hawksnestsp.com
Conservancy. The Trail is a
The visitor center also 2,000-mile (3,220-km) footpath
distributes comprehensive
lists of local rafting outfitters,
y Harpers Ferry that stretches along the spine
of the Appalachian Mountains
while the nearby Hawk’s Nest * 300. £ @ n NPS Visitor Center, from Georgia to Maine. With
State Park offers modest lodge (304) 535-6029. ∑ nps.gov/hafe an Amtrak train station, Harpers
rooms and operates an aerial Ferry is just an hour’s ride from
tram down to the river for boat Nestled at the confluence of Washington, DC, making this
rides during summer. The the Potomac and Shenandoah remote region accessible for
former mining town of Rivers, where West Virginia visitors without a car.
Fayetteville is also a popular meets Virginia and Maryland, is
base for rafters and outfitters, the tiny town of Harpers Ferry. P Appalachian Trail
while the old industrial town of Named after Robert Harper, Conservancy
Hinton holds a grittier appeal the Philadelphia builder who 799 Washington St. Tel (304) 535-
and is easily accessible to constructed a ferry here in 6331. Open 9am–5pm daily.
visitors via Amtrak. 1761, most of the historic ∑ appalachiantrail.org

Aerial view of Harpers Ferry, located at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers
226  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

Maryland o Baltimore
* 675,500. n 100 Light St (12th
Maryland has an abundance of both natural attractions
Floor), (410) 837-4636, 877-BALTI
and historical sites. The rolling farmlands around MORE. £ @ ∑ baltimore.org
Antietam in western Maryland are rich in Civil War heritage.
Water-related tourism is a mainstay of southern Maryland’s There is much to do and see
in this pleasant port city of
Chesapeake Bay, the longest inland shoreline in the US, restaurants, antiques, arts, boats,
which attracts sailors, fishermen, and seafood lovers who and monuments. A good place
can indulge in the delicious local specialty – soft-shell blue to start is the Inner Harbor, the
crabs. The Eastern Shore on the Delmarva Peninsula, dotted city’s redeveloped waterfront,
with picturesque villages, is also graced by the wild beauty with its harborside shops and
restaurants. The centerpiece,
of Assateague and Chincoteague Islands.
and one of Baltimore’s most
popular attractions, is the
u Antietam i Frederick stunning National Aquarium,
National Battlefield * 50,000. n 151 S East St, (800)
whose collection includes many
exhibits, a seal pool, and a
Rte 65, 10 miles (16 km) S of 999-3613, (301) 600-4046.
Open 9am–5pm daily; Visitor dolphin show.
Hagerstown. Tel (301) 432-5124. The Harbor is also home to
Open Park: during daylight hours; Center: 9am–5:30pm daily.
∑ visitfrederick.org the Maryland Science Center,
Visitor Center: 9am–5pm daily.
where “do touch” is the rule.
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
Frederick’s historic center, It features a number of interactive
& 9 7 ∑ nps.gov/anti
dating back to the mid-18th exhibits, and the Planetarium
One of the worst battles of the century, was renovated in the and IMAX® Theater thrill visitors
Civil War was waged here on 1970s and is now a popular with images of earth and space.
September 17, 1862, culmin- tourist attraction. The American Visionary Art
ating in 23,000 casualties among This charming town is a major Museum, also on the Inner
the Confederate as well as the antique center and home to Harbor, houses a collection of
Union armies. hundreds of antique dealers. extraordinary works by self-
An observation tower offers Its shops, galleries, and eateries taught artists whose materials
a panoramic view of this are all in 18th- and 19th-century range from matchsticks to
historic battlefield. Antietam settings, and several historic faux pearls.
Creek runs peacefully under houses in the town, beautifully Uptown is the Baltimore
the Burnside Bridge, where the restored and furnished with Museum of Art, with its famous
fighting was severe and much period artifacts, are open to collection of modern art,
blood was spilled. The whole visitors. Francis Scott Key, author including works by Matisse,
site has a haunted atmos- of “The Star-Spangled Banner,” is Picasso, Degas, and Van Gogh.
phere even today. Although buried in Mt. Olivet Cemetery. It also has a large collection
the battle did not end in a Tourist information is available of pieces by Andy
decisive victory, the horrendous at the visitor center, which Warhol and
bloodshed at Antietam also conducts popular two sculpture
inspired President Lincoln to walking tours gardens featuring
issue the Emancipation during the works by Rodin
Proclamation. The visitor weekends. and Calder.
center movie recreating Also impressive
the battle should not is the Walters
be missed.

The eye-catching architecture of the National Aquarium, Baltimore

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 MARYLAND  227

Art Gallery on the elegant

Mount Vernon Square, lined
with Colonial brick townhouses.
The gallery’s collection includes
Greek and Roman classical art,
Southeast Asian and Chinese
artifacts, Byzantine silver, pre-
Columbian carvings, and
jeweled objects by Fabergé.
There are also paintings by
Rubens, Monet, Manet, and the
Victorian artist Alma- Tadema,
whose beautiful Sappho and
Alcaeus (1881) should not
be missed.
The lively neighborhood of Little
Italy is also worth a visit for its
knockout Italian restaurants and The beautiful formal gardens of the William Paca House, in Annapolis
the games of bocce (Italian lawn
bowling), played around Pratt or of the United States Naval mansion worth visiting is
Stiles Street on warm evenings. Academy. A walk down Main the magnificent red-brick
Street leads past the 200-year- Hammond Harwood House,
 National Aquarium old Maryland Inn, shops, and which boasts exceptionally
501 E Pratt St, Pier 3. Tel (410) 576- wonderful seafood restaurants fine woodcarving. Built in 1774,
3800. Open Mar–Jun & Sep–Oct: that serve local fish, to the City this masterpiece of Georgian
9am–5pm daily (to 8pm Fri); Jul–Aug: Dock lined with boats. It is then design, a short walk west of
9am–7:30pm Sun–Thu, 9am–9:30pm a short walk to the 150-year-old the State House on Maryland
Fri–Sat; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Mon– US Naval Academy. Inside the Avenue, was named after
Thu, 10am–8pm Fri, 10am–5pm Sat &
visitor center is the Freedom 7 the Hammond and Harwood
Sun. Closed Mon, Thanksgiving,
Space Capsule that carried the families. Worth exploring are
Dec 24, 25. & 7 = ∑ aqua.org
first American, Alan Cornhill and Duke of
E Maryland Science Center Shepard, into space. Gloucester streets,
601 Light St. Tel (410) 685-5225. The US Naval Academy examples of the city’s
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Museum in Preble Hall historic residential
Sat, 11am–5pm Sun. Closed Mon, is also worth visiting, streets. Many tours are
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 = especially to see the offered in Annapolis,
∑ mdsci.org
gallery of detailed including bus, boat,
E Baltimore Museum of Art ship models. and walking tours.
N Charles St & 31st St. Tel (443) 573- The Maryland State It is particularly
1700. Open 10am–5pm Wed–Fri, House, completed in enjoyable for tourists
11am–6pm Sat & Sun. Closed Mon, 1779, is the oldest state to view the city from
Tue, Jan 1, Jul 4, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. capitol in continuous the water by
8 7 0 = ∑ artbma.org use. Its Old Senate sightseeing boat,
E Walters Art Museum Chamber is where schooner, or kayak.
600 N Charles St. Tel (410) 547-9000. the Continental Tiffany window in the Naval
Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun (to 9pm Congress (delegates Academy, Annapolis
E US Naval
Thu). Closed Dec 24, 25, Jan 1, Jul 4, from each of the Academy
Thanksg. & Sat & Sun. 7 = American colonies) Corner of King
∑ thewalters.org met when Annapolis was briefly George, E of Randall St. Tel (410) 293-
the capital of the United States 8687. Open 9am–5pm daily (photo ID
in 1783–84. It was also here that required). Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
Dec 25. 7
p Annapolis the Treaty of Paris was ratified
in 1784, formally ending the P Maryland State House
* 35,800. n Annapolis & Anne
Revolutionary War. State Circle. Tel (410) 974-3400.
Arundel County Visitors Bureau, 26
Annapolis teems with Open Jan–Feb: 9am–4pm daily;
West St, (410) 280-0445. Open 9am–
Colonial-era buildings, most Mar–Dec: 9am–5pm daily (photo
5pm daily. ∑ visitannapolis.org
of them still in use. The 1765 ID required for visitors over 18).
The capital of Maryland, William Paca House, home of Closed Dec 25. 8 11am & 3pm. 7
Annapolis, is regarded as the Governor Paca who signed the P William Paca House
jewel of Chesapeake Bay. Declaration of Independence, 186 Prince George St. Tel (410) 990-
It is defined by the nautical is a fine Georgian house with 4543. Open Apr–Dec: 10am–5pm
character that comes with an enchanting garden, both Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun (weekends
the 17 miles (27 km) of shore- of which have been lovingly only in Mar). Closed Jan, Feb,
line and the longtime presence restored. Another restored Thanksgiving, Dec 24, 25. & 9
228  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

a North Bay E Havre de Grace Decoy Museum

215 Giles St. Tel (410) 939-3739.
@ n 121 N Union St, Ste. B,
Open 10:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat,
Havre de Grace, (410) 939-2100.
noon–4pm Sun. Closed public hols. &
At the northern end of ∑ decoymuseum.com
Chesapeake Bay, the lovely O Elk Neck State Park
town of Havre de Grace is home End of Route 272. Tel (410) 287-5333.
to the Concord Point Light-
E C & D Canal Museum
house. Popular with artists and
End of 2nd St. Tel (410) 885-5622.
photographers, the light-house
Open 8am–4pm Mon–Fri, 11am–4pm
has been in continuous Sat & Sun. Closed public hols.
operation since the mid-1800s.
The Havre de Grace Decoy
Museum exhibits a fine s St. Michaels The bay in Blackwater National Wildlife
collection of working decoys Refuge, Easton
* 1,900. @ n (800) 808-7622.
and chronicles how the craft ∑ stmichaelsmd.org
evolved from a purely practical d Easton
wildfowl lure into a highly St. Michaels, founded in 1677, * 11,700. @ n 11 S Harrison St.
sophisticated form of American was once a haven for ship (410) 770-8000. ∑ eastonmd.org
folk art. builders, privateers, and
Across the bay to the east, blockade-runners. Today, the A handsome little town, Easton
the lush forests of Elk Neck town is a destination for pleasure is an interesting combination
State Park cover the tip of a boaters and yachts flying of unique shops and historic
peninsula crowned by Turkey international colors. B&Bs, shops, homes. A restored 1820s
Point Lighthouse, one of the and good restaurants abound. schoolhouse serves as the
bay’s oldest. The park offers a Chesapeake Bay Maritime premises of the Academy of
sandy beach for swimming, Museum is one of Maryland’s top the Arts. Although the
boat rentals, miniature golf, cultural attractions. The museum emphasis is on Eastern Shore
and hiking trails. features interactive exhibits on artists, the gallery’s permanent
Northeast of the park across boat building, historic boats, collection includes works by
the Elk River is Chesapeake City, decoys, and various other aspects famous artists such as James
where rooftops appear much of Chesapeake Bay life. Several Whistler and Grant Wood.
as they did 100 years ago when vessels unique to the area are Once a farm used by muskrat
the village grew to service the anchored on the property, and the trappers for the fur trade,
Chesapeake and Delaware Hooper Strait Lighthouse, a fully Blackwater National Wildlife
Canal. Today, the village is a restored 1879 screwpile wooden Refuge was established in
“boutique town,” with fine shops structure, is open for exploration. 1933 to provide sanctuary for
and restaurants. The C & D migrating waterfowl. Geese
Canal Museum is housed in E Chesapeake Bay number 35,000 and ducks
the canal’s original pumphouse. Maritime Museum exceed 15,000 at the peak of
Working models of canal locks, 213 North Talbot St. Tel (410) 745- the fall migration. The best
the original steam power plant, 2916. Open 10am–5pm (until 6pm time to observe migratory
and a giant waterwheel are in summer, 4pm in winter). & 7 birds is from October through
∑ cbmm.org
on display. March; however, many

Hooper Strait Lighthouse at Chesapeake Bay silhouetted by a pink and violet sunset
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 MARYLAND  229

songbirds and other animals can

be seen all year round.

P Academy Museum of the Arts

106 South St. Tel (410) 822-2787.
Open 10am–8pm Tue–Thu,
10am–4pm Mon, Fri, Sat & Sun.
& ∑ academyartmuseum.org

O Blackwater National
Wildlife Refuge
n 2145 Key Wallace Dr, Cambridge. Ferris wheel at Trimper’s Rides, Ocean City
Tel (410) 228-2677. Open Wildlife trails
and drive: dawn–dusk daily; Visitor
Center: 8am–4pm Mon–Fri, 9am–5pm
g Salisbury h Ocean City
Sat & Sun. Closed Thanksgiving, * 29,000. @ n 8480 Ocean Hwy, * 7,100. @ n 4001 Coastal Hwy,
Dec 25. & (800) 332-8687. 1-800-OC-OCEAN. ∑ ococean.com

The largest city on the Eastern Soft beige sand extends

f Crisfield Shore, Salisbury is known for its endlessly along the Ocean City
fine antique shops. It developed peninsula, fronted by miles of
* 2,900. @ n 319 Main St,
as a mill community in 1732 hotels. In summer, brightly
Crisfield, (410) 968-1333.
∑ cityofcrisfield-md.gov and soon became the principal colored umbrellas provide
crossroads of the southern shade, while at night, the beach
Although the main industry here Delmarva Peninsula. Salisbury’s boardwalk that stretches from
is tourism, this commercial Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art the inlet north past 27th Street
seafood port supports a sport- contains the world’s premier is lively with strolling couples,
fishing industry. From mid-May collection of wildfowl art. Here, singles, and families.
through October, the fish are wood is carved and painted to At the inlet, on the southern
running. The J. Millard Tawes resemble wild birds in natural border of Ocean City, the Ocean
Museum is named after a resident settings. The museum looks at City Life-Saving Museum,
who became Maryland’s the history of the art, housed in a decommissioned
54th governor. The from antique working 1891 Life-saving Station, relates
museum has displays on decoys to contem- the history of Ocean City and
local history and marine porary carvings. the US Life-saving Service.
life. It also offers walking Pemberton Historical North on the Boardwalk,
tours through a Park is the site of Trimper’s Rides began operating
boatyard and a seafood Pemberton Hall, in 1902 with a steam-powered
processing plant as well built in 1741 for 45-animal carousel. Today, Trimper’s
as trolley tours through Isaac Handy, a British includes a 1905 Herschel-
historic Crisfield to the Army colonel. The Spellman merry-go-round
Ward Brothers waterfowl Captain John Smith grounds are threaded glittering with jewels and fantasy
carving workshop and (1580–1631) by self-guided nature animals, Ferris wheels, bumper
the crab-processing trails, and the manor rides, mechanized fortune-tellers,
shanties of Jenkins Creek. house contains a small and a host of other entertainments.
musum maintained by the Ocean City also has many
E J. Millard Tawes Museum local historical society. miniature golf courses: visitors
3 North 9th St, Somers Cove Marina. can play beneath plaster polar
Tel (410) 968-2501. Open by appoint- E Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art bears, bask in the tropics, or putt
ment only. Closed Sun, week of 909 S Schumaker Dr. Tel (410) 742- around rubber sharks.
Christmas, week after Christmas. & 4988. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,
8=7 noon–5pm Sun. & 7 E Ocean City Life-Saving
∑ wardmuseum.org Station Museum
Environs 813 South Atlantic Ave. Tel (410) 289-
Accessible only by boat, Smith 4991. Open May & Oct: 10am–4pm
Island, 10 miles (16 km) to the daily; Apr & Nov: 10am–4pm Wed–
west, was chartered in 1608 Sun; Jun–Sep: 10am–6pm daily;
Dec–Mar: 10am–4pm weekends only.
by Captain John Smith, founder
& ∑ ocmuseum.org
of the Jamestown settlement
(see p195). Ewell, at the island’s  Trimper’s Rides
north end, is where most of the Baltimore & S 1st St on the boardwalk.
population lives. Some claim that Tel (410) 289-8617. Open mid-May–
the local speech is reminiscent mid-Sep: 1pm–midnight Mon–Fri,
of the Elizabethan/Cornwall A specialist duck decoy maker at noon–midnight Sat & Sun; mid-Sep–
dialect brought here in the 1770s. work in Crisfield mid-May: limited hours. &
230  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

Delaware l Hagley Museum/

Although Delaware is the country’s second-smallest state, Eleutherian Mills

larger only than tiny Rhode Island, its importance in industry, Rte 141. @ Tel (302) 658-2400.
banking, and technology far exceeds its size. This is mainly Open 10am–4:30pm daily; Jan–mid-
Mar: 1:30pm (for one tour only) Mon–
due to the laissez-faire tax and corporation laws that have Fri; 9:30am–4:30pm Sat & Sun.
attracted several large companies, who now base their head- Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 8
quarters here. Along with a significant history, stately country ∑ hagley.org
homes, and some of the nation’s best museums, Delaware’s
2,000 square miles (500,000 ha) also boasts more than Picturesquely located on the
20 miles (32 km) of sandy beaches along the Atlantic Ocean. banks of the Brandywine River,
Hagley Yard is the origin of
the du Pont fortune in America.
Its serene setting is visible in
spring when the river banks are
ablaze with purple and pink
rhododendrons and azaleas.
Eleuthere du Pont acquired
the property and established a
black powder (explosives)
factory here in 1884. Factory
buildings, storehouses, drying
tables, and the workers’ village
are open to the public. Facing
the river are the Eagle Roll Mill’s
“mixing rooms,” with their 5-ft
Detail from Washington Crossing the Delaware, Delaware Art Museum (1.5-m) thick walls, where
powder explosions – there have
j Wilmington k Winterthur been 299 blowouts in 20 years –
did the least damage. Hagley
* 71,500. @ n 100 W 10th St, SR 52. Tel (800) 448-3883.
Museum, at the entryway to
(800) 489-6664. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
∑ visitwilmingtonde.com Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 8
the property, explores the
∑ winterthur.org history of the sites with exhibits
This former Swedish colony is and dioramas.
home to one of the country’s Originally the home of Evelina The modest du Pont family
finest art museums, the du Pont and James Biderman, home, Eleutherian Mills, dates
Delaware Art Museum. Its Winterthur was named after from 1803. It overlooks the
outstanding collections contain the Biderman ancestral home powder works at the far end of
works by American illustrators in Switzerland. Henry Francis the property and contains many
such as Howard Pyle, and his du Pont inherited the house original furnishings. The garden
students N.C. Wyeth and in 1927. Du Pont was one of is verdant with a variety of
Maxfield Parrish. There are also the many post-World War I native plants, shrubs, and trees.
paintings and sculpture by collectors, whose nationalistic
other 19th- and 20th-century sentiments caused them to
American artists such as take a fresh look at American
Winslow Homer. The galleries decorative objects. His
feature paintings and decorative collection of American furniture
arts from the English pre- is one of the most important
Raphaelite movement, led by assemblages of early American
Dante Gabriel Rossetti. The decorative arts in the world.
romantic works, second only Winterthur showcases the du
to those of London’s Victoria Pont family’s fascination with
and Albert Museum in the UK, American decorative arts and
were bequeathed to the horticulture. The surrounding
museum in 1935 by the wealthy 982-acre (397-ha) grounds are
Wilmington industrialist Samuel landscaped beautifully, with
Bancroft Jr. miles of surfaced paths and
scenic woodland trails.
E Delaware Art Museum The part of the museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway. Tel (302) open to the public consists
571-9590. Open 10am– 4pm Wed– of two buildings, 175 period
Sat, noon–4pm Sun. & 7 rooms, and two floors of Boxcar exhibit at Hagley, on the banks of
∑ delart.org exhibition galleries. the Brandywine River
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp234–6 and pp237–9
 DELAWARE  231

} Cape Henlopen State Park

42 Cape Henlopen Dr. Tel (302) 645-
8983. 

v Rehoboth Beach
* 1,200. @ n 229 Rehoboth Ave,
(302) 227-6181.
∑ cityofrehoboth.com

Rehoboth beach was originally

a Methodist summer camp.
The elegant French-style Nemours Mansion, built by Alfred I. du Pont A commercial strip of restau-
rants and shops stretches
z Nemours P New Castle Courthouse along Rehoboth Avenue,
Mansion and 211 Delaware St. Tel (302) 323-4453.
Open 10am–3:30pm Tue–Sat, 1:30–
meeting sand beaches at
Funland on the boardwalk.
Gardens 4:30pm Sun. Closed Mon, public hols. The Outlets, between Lewes
850 Alapocas Dr. Tel (302) 651-6912. and Rehoboth Beach, feature
@ Open May–Dec: Tue–Sun (children every major outlet store, taking
under 12 not allowed). & c Lewes advantage of the fact that there
8 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm; call to * 3,000. @ n 114 E Third Street, is no sales tax in Delaware.
make reservations. (302) 645-7777. ∑ lewes.com Three miles (5 km) south of
∑ nemoursmansion.org the beach, the 2,700-acre
The site of Zwaanendael (1093-ha) Delaware Seashore
Built by Alfred I. du Pont in (“Valley of the Swans”), State Park covers the strip of
1909–1910, this Louis XVI-style Delaware’s original Dutch land between the Atlantic
château is named after the settlement in 1631, Lewes is a Ocean and Rehoboth Bay.
north-central French town that quiet town with a small beach, Millsboro, west of Reheboth
Pierre Samuel du Pont de sophisticated restaurants, Bay, is home to the Nanticoke
Nemours, his great-great-grand- residences, and shops. The tribe. In mid-September, the
father, represented as a member Zwaanendael Museum, built tribe holds a public pow-wow
of the French Estates General in 1931, is a striking replica of to preserve their heritage and
in 1789. The mansion’s 102 the Town Hall of Hoorn, home explain their beliefs.
rooms are opulently decorated of most of the settlers. Its South of the park, the 89-ft
with Oriental rugs, tapestries, exhibits elaborate on the first (27-m) Fenwick Island Light-
and paintings dating from the encampment as well as the house marks the Delaware-
15th century. The 300-acre area’s other historical aspects. Maryland border. Built in 1852,
(12-ha) gardens are landscaped In 1682, the British Crown it was decommissioned during
in the classic French style. granted the colony of Delaware World War II.
to Englishman William Penn
(see p108) who established one } Delaware Seashore State Park
x New Castle of the nation’s first public lands Inlet 850. Tel (302) 227-2800.
* 4,800. @ n 220 Delaware St, by setting aside Cape Henlopen  Mar 1–Nov 30.
(302) 322-9801. ∑ newcastlecity. for the citizens of Lewes.
delaware.gov Besides a bay and ocean
beaches, Cape Henlopen State
Delaware’s former capital is Park contains Gordon’s Pond
today a well-preserved historic Wildlife Area and the Great
site, with restaurants, shops, Dune, which rises 80 ft
and residential areas. The New (24 m) above sea level.
Castle Courthouse displays The park’s varied habitats are
artifacts that illuminate the home to many birds, reptiles,
town’s multinational origins; and mammals, including
Sweden, Holland, and Britain all threatened shorebirds.
have claimed New Castle as Attractions include hiking
their own. Several historic trails, interpretive displays, a
homes lie a short stroll from pier, camping, and swimming.
each other. One, the Amstel
House, was the home of E Zwaanendael Museum
Governor Van Dyke. The town’s 102 Kings Hwy & Savannah Rd.
most elegant dwelling place in Tel (302) 645-1148. Open 10am–
1738, its most famous guest was 4:30pm Tue–Sat, 1:30–4:30pm Sun. A Nanticoke at the annual pow-wow,
George Washington. Closed Mon, some public hols. Rehoboth Beach
232  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

Practical Information Both Amtrak trains and

Greyhound buses are cheaper
Washington, DC and the Capital Region is very rich in alternatives, but your choice
museums, cultural events, and entertainment, as well as of destination may be more
in scenic sites and outdoor activities around its seashores, limited. To explore many of
the scenic parts of the Capital
rivers, and mountains. This region offers excellent amenities Region, it is best to travel by car.
for the large numbers of tourists that it attracts. Spring and Visitors should avoid shortcuts
fall are the best times to visit, as the summers are hot and and stay on well-traveled roads.
humid in much of the region, and the winters cold and damp.
However, spring, summer, and fall see the largest number Etiquette
of visitors, so it is best to make reservations.
Smoking is prohibited in all
public buildings, restaurants,
bars, and stores in the region.
Tourist Information If you plan to hike alone, always Cigarettes can only be purchased
The Capital Region is well- carry a cell phone, and inform by those over 18 years old;
equipped to cater to visitors’ someone in advance about proof of age may be required.
needs. Visitor information desks your itinerary. The legal age for drinking
at airports and within cities alcohol in Washington is 21,
will provide guides and maps, and you may need a photo
information on guided tours, Getting Around identification (ID) as proof of
events, and festivals. Major Travel within DC and the Capital your age in order to purchase
hotels also have guest services Region is easy. Washington alcohol and be allowed into
desks. The Smithsonian has a comprehensive public bars. It is illegal to drink alcohol
Information line and website transportation system, and all in public parks or to carry an
are useful resources for finding major attractions in the capital open container of alcohol
out about special events in the are accessible on foot, or by in your car while driving.
museums. State tourism bureaus Metrorail, Metrobus Circulator Penalties for driving under the
are other reliable sources of bus, or taxi. If you decide to influence of alcohol are quite
comprehensive information. drive in DC, be prepared for severe, and may even include
traffic jams and unexpected a jail sentence.
route changes. Avoid driving
Personal Security at night if you are unfamiliar
In recent years, Washington with the area. Outdoor Activities
has made great efforts to clean Several DC-based tour Maryland’s Chesapeake Bay and
up its streets and bring down companies offer tours that Eastern Shore offer wonderful
crime. If you stick to the tourist include Mount Vernon, opportunities for boating,
areas and avoid outlying Williamsburg, and Monticello sailing, and fishing. For outdoor
neighborhoods, you should in Virginia. Baltimore and enthusiasts, other highlights
not run into any trouble. When Annapolis, Maryland’s major of the Capital Region include
visiting sights off the beaten cities, are connected to DC by hiking the Appalachian Trail
track, stay alert and study your rail and bus. Car rental is widely in Virginia and West Virginia,
map properly before you set off. available, but often expensive. white-water rafting in West
Virginia, and cycling along the
picturesque Chesapeake and
The Climate of DC & the Capital Region
Ohio Canal Towpath, which runs
The Capital Region’s climate varies greatly. In winter, temperatures all the way from Washington
can plummet below freezing. to Maryland. There is also a
During this time, Virginia’s 16-mile (26-km) biking trail
WASHINGTON, DC
Appalachian Mountains are from Washington to Mount
covered with snow, attracting 87/31
Vernon. Delaware’s Rehoboth
skiers and snowboarders. °F/C 68/20 67/19 Beach and Seashore State Park
Summers can be very hot and 64/18
are a magnet for those in search
humid, with almost continuous 48/9 of sea and sand.
sunshine. Summer is also the 32°F 44/7 42/6
season for the heaviest rainfall, Among spectator sports,
0°C 27/-3
especially between May and the Washington Redskins
August, when the rain comes as a 14 17 19 18 (football), Washington
welcome break from the humidity. days days days days Nationals (baseball) and the
The rains taper off in September 3.1 3.5 3.2 2.7 Baltimore Orioles (baseball)
and October, when the weather in in in in are hot tickets. If tickets have
is pleasantly mild. The region is at month Apr Jul Oct Jan sold out, it is fun to watch
its best in spring and fall. the game along with other
enthusiasts at a sports bar.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  233

Entertainment Pavilion in Columbia, Maryland, Shopping

Visitors to this region will and the Jiffy Lube Live in Washington, DC as well as
never be at a loss for entertain- Bristow, Virginia. Maryland and Virginia are
ment or cultural events. There Film classics and film famous for their antique stores.
are more free activities in DC premieres are shown at the Frederick, Maryland, has the
than in any other American city. American Film Institute in Silver Emporium at Creekside
The weekend section of Friday’s Spring, MD, and documentaries Antiques, which houses over
edition of the Washington Post at the Library of Congress. Many 100 antique shops. A great
provides listings of free concerts, of the capital’s museums have place to shop are the museum
gallery talks, films, book regular series of film shows, shops in DC, which stock an
signings, poetry readings, plays, lectures, and concerts. incredibly wide range of
and concerts. Washington holds many products, from African textiles
The Kennedy Center in seasonal cultural events. In and artwork reproductions to
Washington is home to the June, there are nightly perfor- contemporary American crafts.
Washington Opera Company mances by the Shakespeare Popular department stores are
and the National Symphony Theatre Free for All at Harmon Macy’s in DC and Nordstrom
Orchestra, two of the capital’s Hall. Independence Day in Arlington, Virginia. There are
crown jewels. It offers a celebrations are spectacular large malls in the Virginia and
magnificent dance and ballet along the Mall, with fireworks Maryland suburbs, and at
season as well, featuring the from the base of the Washington Fashion Center in Pentagon City.
world’s finest companies, Memorial. Labor Day Weekend Discount hunters should head
including the Bolshoi, the in September is marked by a for the 230 outlets at Potomac
American Ballet Theater, and free concert by the National Mills, situated 30 miles (48 km)
the Dance Theater of Harlem. Symphony Orchestra on the south of DC on I-95, or to
The center also hosts touring lawns of Capitol Hill. Tours of Rehoboth Beach in Delaware,
theater companies and many the White House are limited at with its huge concentration of
top jazz performers. Other present. Check at the White outlet stores.
good jazz and blues venues are House Visitor Center or on Many shops in the
Blues Alley in Georgetown, its website (see p211) for the Washington, DC area are
the Merriweather Post latest information. closed on major holidays.

DIRECTORY
Tourist West Virginia Washington Merriweather Post
Information Tel (800)-call-wva. Nationals Pavilion
∑ wvtourism.com Nationals Stadium, 1500 S Columbia, MD. Tel (410)
Delaware Capitol St, SE. 715-5550. ∑ merri
99 King’s Hwy, Dover, DE Travel Tel (202) 675-6287. weathermusic.com
19901. Tel (866) 284-7483. ∑ nationals.com
∑ visitdelaware.com Amtrak National Symphony
Tel 800-USA-RAIL. Washington Redskins Orchestra
Maryland FedExField 1600, FedEx Tel (202) 467-4600.
∑ amtrak.com
401 E Pratt St, Baltimore, ∑ kennedy-center.org
Way, Landover, MD 20785.
MD 21202. Greyhound
Tel (301) 276-6050 (ticket Shakespeare Theatre
Tel (877) 333-4455. Tel (800) 231-2222.
office), (301) 276-6000. Free for All
∑ visitmaryland.org ∑ greyhound.com
∑ redskins.com Harmon Hall,
Smithsonian Metrorail & Metrobus 610 F St NW.
Information 600 Fifth St, NW, Entertainment Tel (202) 334-4790.
1000 Jefferson Dr, SW Washington, DC 20001. ∑ shakespeare
Washington, DC. Tel (202) 637-7000, (202) Blues Alley theatre.org
638-3780 (TTY for 1073 Wisconsin Ave, NW.
Tel (202) 633-1000.
hearing-impaired callers). Tel (202) 337-4141. Shopping
∑ si.edu
∑ wmata.com ∑ bluesalley.com
Virginia Emporium at
Jiffy Lube Live Creekside Antiques
901 E Byrd St, Richmond, Sports & Outdoor 7800 Cellar Door Dr, 112 E Patrick St, Frederick,
VA 23219. Activities Bristow. MD. Tel (301) 662-7099.
Tel 800-VISITVA.
Baltimore Orioles Tel (703 )754-6400. ∑ emporiumantiques.
∑ virginia.org
∑ livenation.com com
Oriole Park at Camden
Washington, DC Yards, 333 W Camden St, Kennedy Center Macy’s Department
901 Seventh St NW, Suite Baltimore, MD 21201. New Hampshire Ave & Store
400, Washington, DC Tel (866) 800-1275. Rock Creek Pkwy, NW. 12th & G St, NW.
20001. Tel (202) 789-7000. ∑ baltimore-orioles. Tel (202) 467-4600. Tel (202) 628-6661.
∑ washington.org mlb.com ∑ kennedy-center.org ∑ macys.com
234  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

Where to Stay
EMBASSY ROW: The Fairfax at Price Guide
Washington, DC Embassy Row $$$ Prices are based on one night's stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Luxury
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
ADAMS MORGAN: Adam’s Inn $ 2100 Massachusetts Ave NW, 20008
B&B Tel (202) 293-2100 $ up to $150
1746 Lanier Place NW, 20009 ∑ fairfaxhoteldc.com $$ $150 to 300
$$$ over $300
Tel (202) 745-3600 A favorite of Washington's political
∑ adamsinn.com elite, this Georgian-style hotel has
A good choice for budget travelers, glorious rooms with a historic feel. THE MALL: Mandarin
and located close to the zoo; some Oriental $$$
rooms here have shared baths. GEORGETOWN: Holiday Inn Business Map 5D
Washington-Georgetown $$ 1330 Maryland Ave SW, 20024
CAPITOL HILL: Courtyard Value Tel (202) 554-8588
Washington Capitol Hill/ 2101 Wisconsin Ave NW, 20007 ∑ mandarinoriental.com
Navy Yard $$ Tel (202) 338-4600 Luxurious, elegant hotel with
Value ∑ holidayinn.com top amenities and one of the
140 L St SE, 20002 A standard hotel with a fitness best restaurants in the city.
Tel (202) 479-0027 center and a pool in a great spot.
∑ marriott.com Shuttle service to the Metro. PENN QUARTER: Hosteling
A vibrant hotel offering well- International $
appointed, comfortable rooms. GEORGETOWN: Value Map 3D
Ask about their special promotions. Four Seasons $$$ 1009 11th St NW, 20001
Business Map 3A Tel (202) 737-2333
CAPITOL HILL: Phoenix 2800 Pennsylvania Ave NW, 20007 ∑ hiwashingtondc.org
Park Hotel $$ Tel (202) 342-0444 Over 200 dorm-style rooms with
Boutique Map 4E ∑ fourseasons.com shared baths, located close to the
520 North Capitol St NW, 20001 This highly rated hotel on the Smithsonian museums.
Tel (202) 638-6900 edge of Georgetown offers large
∑ phoenixparkhotel.com rooms, a great bar, and top service. PENN QUARTER:
This historic property, refurbished Hotel Monaco $$$
with an Irish theme, features the LOGANS CIRCLE: Hotel Rouge $$ Boutique Map 4D
popular Dubliner restaurant. Boutique 700 F St NW, 20004
1315 16th St, 20036 Tel (202) 628-7177
Tel (200) 232-8000 ∑ monaco-dc.com
DK Choice ∑ rougehotel.com A National Historic Landmark
CAPITOL HILL: Cozy rooms and red decor retro-fitted into a modern,
Hotel George $$$ running throughout, including in colorful hotel with a chic bar
Boutique Map 4E the trendy on-site Bar Rouge. and a popular restaurant.
15 E St NW, 20001
Tel (202) 347-4200 THE MALL: Holiday Inn PENN QUARTER: The Willard $$$
∑ hotelgeorge.com Washington-Capitol $$ Luxury Map 4C
This chic Kimpton property has Value Map 5D 1401 Pennsylvania Ave NW, 20004
a hip political theme, state-of- 550 C St SW, 20024 Tel (202) 628-9100
the-art rooms, an exemplary Tel (800) 315-2621 ∑ washington.intercontinental.com
spa, the excellent Bistro Bis ∑ holidayinn.com This stately, historic hotel has
restaurant, and one of the city’s This refurbished standard hotel hosted countless presidents,
best bars. It is both eco-friendly offers the basics in a good as well as Martin Luther King Jr.
and pet-friendly. There is a location for the sites. and Charles Dickens.
complimentary wine hour daily.

DUPONT CIRCLE: The Swann

House $$
B&B
1808 New Hampshire Ave NW, 20009
Tel (202) 265-4414
∑ swannhouse.com
A stunning historic mansion
where amenities include Wi-Fi, a
pool, and Jacuzzis in some rooms.

DUPONT CIRCLE: Mansion

on O Street $$$
Luxury Map 3B
2020 O St NW, 20036
Tel (202) 496-2000
∑ omansion.com
This 19th-century mansion has
a quirky decor and many hidden
rooms and passages for exploring. Bright and artsy interiors at the Hotel George, Capitol Hill, Washington, DC
 W H E R E TO S TAY  235

THE WHITE HOUSE AND FOGGY

BOTTOM: The Hay-Adams $$$
Luxury Map 3C
800 16th St NW, 20006
Tel (202) 638-6600
∑ hayadams.com
This historic, well-appointed
property offers peaceful, elegant
rooms close to the White House.

THE WHITE HOUSE AND FOGGY

BOTTOM: The Mayflower
Renaissance Washington, DC
Hotel $$$
Business
1127 Connecticut Ave NW, 20036
Tel (202) 347-3000
∑ marriotthotels.com
A grand hotel with historic charm Spacious suite at Hotel Monaco, Alexandria, Virginia
and a stunning lobby. The formal
afternoon tea is recommended. CHARLOTTESVILLE:
DK Choice Omni Hotel $$
BALTIMORE: Luxury
Four Seasons $$$ 212 Ridge McIntire Rd, 22903
Maryland Luxury Tel (434) 971-5500
200 International Dr, 21202 ∑ omnihotels.com
ANNAPOLIS: Maryland Inn $$ Tel (410) 576-5800 This luxurious hotel features a
Historic ∑ fourseasons.com stunning seven-story glassed-
16 Church Circle, 21401 A stunning waterfront urban in atrium and a beautiful
Tel (410) 263-2641 retreat, Four Seasons is housed lobby lush with greenery.
∑ historicinnsofannapolis.com in a soaring glass tower and
This lovely inn built in the 1760s offers world-class service and CHINCOTEAGUE: Refuge Inn $$
offers comfortable, Victorian-style spectacular views of the historic B&B
rooms and an inviting restaurant. Inner Harbor. Amenities include 7058 Maddox Blvd, 23336
a state-of-the-art fitness center, Tel (757) 336-5511
ANNAPOLIS: Annapolis heated infinity-edge pool, and ∑ refugeinn.com
Marriott Waterfront $$$ luxury spa treatments, as well as Family-friendly inn near the
Luxury multiple dining options on site. National Wildlife Refuge.
80 Compromise St, 21401 Complimentary breakfasts.
Tel (410) 268-7555
∑ annapolismarriott.com OCEAN CITY: Sleep Inn & Suites $ FREDERICKSBURG: Dunning
A waterfront hotel with stunning Value Mills Inn All-Suite Hotel $
views of Chesapeake Bay and the 11 N Baltimore Ave, 21842 Value
harbor. Spacious guest rooms. Tel (443) 664-4020 2305-C Jefferson Davis Hwy, 22401
∑ sleepinn.com Tel (540) 373-1256
BALTIMORE: Inn at the Black Olive $ Pleasant hotel close to the beach ∑ dunningmills.com
B&B and the lively boardwalk with Set in the woods near major
803 S Caroline St, 21231 shopping, dining, and Civil War battlefields and
Tel (443) 681-6316 entertainment options nearby. cemeteries, each suite here
∑ theblackolive.com includes a kitchen and a
This eco-friendly inn with an OCEAN CITY: Princess Royale dining area.
organic restaurant offers all-suite Oceanfront Hotel $$
rooms with spa bathrooms. Luxury NORFOLK: Courtyard
9100 Coastal Hwy, 21842 Norfolk Downtown $
BALTIMORE: Wyndham Tel (410) 524-7777 Business
Peabody Court $ ∑ princessroyale.com 520 Plume St, 23510
Value Condos and family-friendly suites Tel (757) 963-6000
612 Cathedral St, 21201 with fully equipped kitchenettes ∑ marriott.com
Tel (410) 727-7101 are situated on sandy beaches. This hotel is close to downtown
∑ peabodycourthotel.com There is an indoor heated pool. attractions, as well as many
This boutique-style property with entertainment, dining, and
a Renaissance façade is close shopping options. It has an
to the Walters Art Gallery. indoor pool and a whirlpool.
Virginia
BALTIMORE: Homewood RICHMOND: The Berkeley
Suites by Hilton $$ ALEXANDRIA: Hotel Monaco $$ Hotel $$
Business Business Business
625 S President St, 21202 480 King St, 22314 1200 E Cary St, 23219
Tel (410) 234-0999 Tel (703) 549-6080 Tel (804) 780-1300
∑ homewoodsuites3.hilton.com ∑ monaco-alexandria.com ∑ berkeleyhotel.com
Next to the harbor, these suites Located in the historic Old Town, A charming downtown hotel with
include kitchens and hot breakfast, Hotel Monaco offers stylish rooms lavish, traditional furnishings.
promising a comfortable stay. and suites. Free airport shuttle. Ask for a room with a balcony.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 26–7
236  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

RICHMOND: Grace Manor Inn $$

B&B
1853 W Grace St, 23220
Tel (804) 353-4334
∑ thegracemanorinn.com
The four-suites in this meticulously
renovated mansion are luxurious
and include gourmet breakfast.

DK Choice
RICHMOND:
Jefferson Hotel $$$
Historic
101 West Franklin St, 23219
Tel (804) 597-0919
∑ jeffersonhotel.com
Located in the heart of
downtown, this historic, upscale
hotel has been an area staple Palm court lounge in the opulent Jefferson Hotel, Richmond, Virginia
since 1895. Jefferson has an
elegant decor that features HARPERS FERRY: The Jackson
Southern antiques as well as a Rose Bed & Breakfast $$ Delaware
stained-glass domed skylight. B&B
Friendly staff cater to every 1167 W Washington St, 25425 DOVER: Dover Downs
whim. Complimentary transport Tel (304) 535-1528 Hotel & Casino $
service provided. ∑ thejacksonrose.com Value
Comfortable rooms feature original 1131 N DuPont Hwy, 19901
pine floors and high ceilings at this Tel (302) 674-4600
VIRGINIA BEACH: Residence Inn cozy B&B in a peaceful Federal- ∑ doverdowns.com
Virginia Beach Oceanfront $$ style mansion. This sprawling casino complex
Value offers full-service accommo-
3217 Atlantic Ave, 23451 MORGANTOWN: Waterfront dations with access to top-notch
Tel (757) 425-1141 Place Hotel $ entertainment and a luxurious spa.
∑ marriott.com Business
This comfortable hotel offers 2 Waterfront Pl, 26501 NEW CASTLE: Sheraton
stunning views, spacious suites Tel (304) 296-1700 Wilmington South $$
with kitchens, and beach access. ∑ waterfrontplacehotel.com Business
This large waterfront hotel is 365 Airport Dr, 19720
WILLIAMSBURG: Holiday Inn popular with visitors to the uni- Tel (302) 328-6200
Hotel & Suites Williamsburg- versity. It offers modern amenities ∑ sheraton.com
Historic Gateway $ including HD TVs. An all-suite option offering rooms
Value with separate living- and bed-
515 Bypass Rd, 23185 WHEELING: Oglebay Resort and rooms, and all modern amenities.
Tel (757) 229-9990 Conference Center $$
∑ ihg.com Value REHOBOTH BEACH: Boardwalk
Kids eat for free in the welcoming 465 Lodge Dr, Oglebay Park, 26003 Plaza Hotel $$
bistro at this family-friendly hotel, Tel (800) 624-6988 Luxury
with a fitness center and pool. ∑ oglebay-resort.com 2 Olive St, 19971
A historic resort catering mostly Tel (302) 227-7169
WILLIAMSBURG: to families, with golf, tennis, ∑ boardwalkplaza.com
Williamsburg Inn $$$ swimming, and kids’ activities. Deluxe suites have whirlpools at
Luxury this Victorian-style hotel with
136 E Francis St, 23185 ocean views. Heated spa pool.
Tel (888) 965-7254 DK Choice
∑ colonialwilliamsburg.com WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS:
A country estate-style inn with The Greenbrier $$ DK Choice
opulent decor, Regency-style fur- Luxury WILMINGTON:
nishings, and marble bathrooms. 300 W Main St, 24986 Hotel Du Pont $$
Tel (855) 453-4858 Luxury
∑ greenbrier.com 11th St and Market, 19801
A National Historic Landmark Tel (302) 594-3100
West Virginia dating back to 1778, this world- ∑ dupont.com/hotel
famous resort is spread across Hotel Du Pont has provided
CHARLESTON: Marriott 10,000 acres (4,047 ha) in the elegant accommodations to
Charleston Town Center $ beautiful Allegheny Mountains. the likes of John F. Kennedy and
Business It offers many lodging options, Katharine Hepburn since 1913.
200 Lee St E, 25301 from single rooms to four- The luxurious rooms feature
Tel (304) 345-6500 bedroom estate houses, all with imported linens and mahogany
∑ marriott.com exquisite interior design. Golf, furnishings. The in-house
Convenient hotel, near acclaimed fine dining, and a mineral spa restaurant, Green Room, serves
white-water rafting destinations, complete the experience. exquisite French cuisine.
and has great views of downtown.
For key to prices see page 234
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  237

Where to Eat and Drink

PENN QUARTER: Full Kee $ Price Guide
Washington, DC Chinese Map 3D Prices are based on a three-course
509 H St NW, 20001 meal per person, with a half-bottle of
CAPITOL HILL: Dubliner $$ Tel (202) 371-2233 house wine, including tax and service.
Irish Map 4E One of the few Chinese eateries $ up to $45
4 F St NW, 20001 in Penn Quarter, Full Kee serves $$ $45 to 80
Tel (202) 737-3773 authentic Hong Kong-style food. $$$ over $80
A favorite of DC’s Irish community
for its pub food, such as fish and PENN QUARTER: Jaleo $$ THE WHITE HOUSE AND
chips, Irish stew, and sandwiches. Spanish Map 4D FOGGY BOTTOM: Founding
480 7th St NW, 20004 Farmers $$$
CAPITOL HILL: Tunnicliffs $$ Tel (202) 628-7949 American Map 3B
American Tapas, paella, and sangrias make 1924 Pennsylvania Ave NW, 20006
222 7th St SE, 20003 Jaleo a great place to enjoy a Tel (202) 822-8783
Tel (202) 544-5680 meal with friends. Everything at this restaurant is
A local favorite since the 1980s, organic and made from scratch.
serving hearty pub fare, including PENN QUARTER: Zaytinya $$ The menu includes Yankee pot
burgers, quesadillas, and pizzas. Mediterranean Map 3D roast, shrimp and grits, and
701 9th St NW, 20001 chicken pot pie. Vegetarians
GEORGETOWN: Das Tel (202) 638-0800 are also well catered to.
Ethiopian Cuisine $$ Run by chef José Andrés, this
Ethiopian restaurant offers Turkish, Greek, FARTHER AFIELD: Ben’s
1201 28th St NW, 20007 and Lebanese cuisine. Chili Bowl $
Tel (202)-333-4710 American
Das has garnered good reviews PENN QUARTER: Acadiana $$$ 1213 U St NW, 20009
for its delicious Ethiopian food Southern Map 3D Tel (202) 667-0909
and friendly service. It offers 901 New York Ave NW, 20004 Everyone loves to eat at Ben’s,
samplers for the uninitiated. Tel (202) 408-8848 including Barack Obama. It is
A classy take on New Orleans highly acclaimed for its chili
GEORGETOWN: Pizzeria food, with amazing gumbo, turtle dog, gourmet burgers, subs,
Paradiso $$ soup, and oysters. Superb brunch. and the half-smoke.
Italian
3282 M St NW, 20007 PENN QUARTER: FARTHER AFIELD: Cactus
Tel (202) 337-1245 Old Ebbitt Grill $$$ Cantina $
This crowded pizzeria is known American Map 4C Mexican
for thin-crust pizzas with a range 675 15th St NW, 20005 3300 Wisconsin Ave NW, 20016
of toppings. Large beer menu. Tel (202) 347-4800 Tel (202) 686-7222
DC’s oldest saloon has been This cantina serves huge plates of
GEORGETOWN: 1789 $$$ open since 1856. It is famous for Tex-Mex food. The large dining
American its classic American fare and excel- room is great for families and the
1226 36th St NW, 20007 lent seafood. Try the crab cakes. patio is popular on sunny days.
Tel (202) 965-1789
Traditional cuisine and impeccable THE WHITE HOUSE AND FOGGY FARTHER AFIELD: 2Amys $$
service define this upscale BOTTOM: Blue Duck Tavern $$$ Italian
restaurant with an extensive wine American Map 3B 3715 Macomb St NW, 20016
list and delectable desserts. 1201 24th St NW, 20037 Tel (202) 885-5700
Tel (202) 419-6755 Stop here for genuine Italian
Consistently rated one of the best pizza or unmatched small
DK Choice restaurants in the city, the focus plates, including devilled
THE MALL: Mitsitam Café $$ here is on food cooked in wood- eggs, burrata (Italian cheese),
Native American Map 5F burning ovens. Duck is a specialty. eggplant confit, and olives.
4th & Independence SW, 20565
Tel (866) 868-7774
Probably the most unusual, and
one of the best restaurants in DC.
Located in the National Museum
of the American Indian, this café
serves Native American cuisine
from many tribes. The menu
changes seasonally, but always
includes bison and salmon.

THE MALL: CityZen $$$

American Map 5D
1330 Maryland Ave SW, 20024
Tel (202) 787-6006 Closed Sun & Mon
An elegant place with a six-course
tasting menu including fish and
lamb, as well as vegetarian dishes. The colorful interior of Jaleo, Washington, DC

For more information on types of restaurants see pages 28–9

238  WA S H I N G TO N , D C & T H E C A P I TA L R E G I O N

Maryland
ANNAPOLIS: Dock Street
Bar & Grill $$
American
136 Dock S, 21401
Tel (410) 268-7278
Popular dining and nightlife
spot, with water views and
entertainment including DJs and
local bands. Try the Maryland
crab cakes.

DK Choice
ANNAPOLIS: Middleton Middleton Tavern Oyster Bar & Restaurant, Annapolis, Maryland
Tavern Oyster Bar &
Restaurant $$$ BETHESDA: Mon Ami Gabi $$ presidents Washington and
Seafood French Jefferson. An on-site museum
2 Market Space, 21401 7239 Woodmont Ave, 20814 details the impressive history.
Tel (410) 263-3323 Tel (301) 654-1234 Waiters in costume serve
This historic tavern, dating back Authentic steak-frites, bouillabaisse, old-time fare such as prime
to 1750, is situated across the crêpes, and quiches are exquisitely ribs and pies.
street from the harbor. George flavorful at this popular restau-
Washington, Thomas Jefferson, rant with a casual yet romantic ALEXANDRIA: Le Refuge $$
and Benjamin Franklin were ambience. There is often live French
once guests. House specialties jazz music. 127 N Washington St, 22314
include fresh local oysters on Tel (703) 548-4661 Closed Sun
the half shell, lump crab cakes, BETHESDA: Jaleo $$$ Charming eatery across the street
and filling pasta dishes. Spanish from the historic Christ Church
7271 Woodmont Ave, 20814 serving “Country French” cuisine.
Tel (301) 913-0003 Bouillabaisse and soft-shelled
BALTIMORE: Isabella’s Brick The Bethesda outpost of José crabs are house specialties.
Oven Pizza & Panini $ Andrés’ popular tapas bar offers
Italian an impressive array of dishes. CHARLOTTESVILLE: Citizen
221 S High St, 21202 Enjoy them with sangria and be Burger Bar $
Tel (410) 962-8888 sure to leave room for the flan. American
Foodies flock to this family-run 212 E Main St, 22902
eatery in Little Italy for brick-oven HAGERSTOWN: Schmankerl Tel (434) 979-9944
pizzas, sandwiches made with Stube Bavarian Restaurant $$ This welcoming eatery in an
fresh bread, and creative salads. German exposed-brick interior is popular
58 S Potomac St, 21740 for its gourmet burgers made
BALTIMORE: Slainte Irish Pub Tel (301) 797-3354 Closed Mon with fresh meat from grass-fed
and Restaurant $ In a cozy atmosphere, waitstaff cows and free-range chickens.
Irish/American dressed in Bavarian garments The lengthy bar menu includes
1700 Thames St, 21231 serve imported beers and large local craft beers and inventive
Tel (410) 563-6600 portions of authentic German cocktails. Friendly service.
Authentic Irish pub popular with food, such as roasts, dumplings,
sports fans and young crowds and home-made desserts. CHARLOTTESVILLE:
for its draft beers, curry chips, and Michie Tavern $
farmhouse burgers. OCEAN CITY: The Shark on American
the Harbor $$ 683 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy, 22902
BALTIMORE: LP Steamers $$ Seafood Tel (434) 977-1234
Seafood 12924 Sunset Ave, 21842 At this casual, buffet-style lunch
1100 E Fort Ave, 21230 Tel (410) 213-0924 spot with a Colonial touch,
Tel (410) 576-9294 Seafood from the docks and staff wear period clothing while
This crab house provides an fresh organic produce feature in the kitchen churns out hearty
authentic Maryland experience dishes with local and Southern Southern food based on
in casual environs. Friendly influences at this restaurant on 18th-century recipes.
waitresses and wooden mallets the commercial fishing harbor.
are on hand to help with the RICHMOND: HogsHead Café $
crab-picking process. American
9503 West Broad St, 23220
BALTIMORE: Mama’s On Virginia Tel (804) 308-0281 Closed Sun
the Half Shell $$ This small family-run café lures
Seafood/American ALEXANDRIA: meat-lovers with its authentic
2901 O’Donnell St, 21224 Gadsby’s Tavern $$ smoky barbecue. The casual
Tel (410) 276-3160 American atmosphere bustles with friendly
Cozy eatery with a menu focusing 138 N Royal St, 22314 servers who dish out house
on seafood, particularly traditional Tel (703) 548-1288 favorites like hand-pulled pork
Chesapeake recipes. Oyster stew Historic tavern dating back to sandwiches, tender ribs, and
and crab cakes are signatures. 1770, once frequented by former bacon-wrapped hot dogs.

For key to prices see page 237

 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  239

RICHMOND: Stella’s $$ is known for its hearty, gourmet

Greek/Mediterranean cuts of USDA prime beef, DK Choice
1012 Lafayette St, 23221 premium seafood, and tasty NEW CASTLE:
Tel (804) 358-2011 side orders. Attentive service, Jessop’s Tavern $$
Inviting restaurant serving deli­ fine cigars, and a lengthy wine American
cious food made from the freshest list round out the experience. 114 Delaware St, 19720
ingredients. The helpful waitstaff Tel (302) 322-6111 Closed Sun
explain the menu’s various dishes, Patrons fill wooden tables
most of which are for sharing. DK Choice surrounded by Colonial­style
HARPERS FERRY: decor to enjoy flavorful
RICHMOND: Tarrant’s Café $$ Canal House $$ home­cooked food. The
American American menu consists of authentic
1 W Broad St, 23220 1226 W Washington St, 25425 Early American dishes that
Tel (804) 225-0035 Tel (304) 535-2880 Closed Mon– incorporate English, Dutch,
Modeled after a 19th­century Wed and Swedish recipes that were
pharmacy, this affordable At the Canal House award­ once common to the region.
neighborhood eatery serves up winning cuisine is served in a House favorites include oven­
fried oysters, baby back ribs, charming 1820s stone house baked pot pies and fresh
and shrimp and grits. that has, in the past, served mussels steamed in Belgian
as a hospital, military barracks, beer, garlic, or West Indian
VIRGINIA BEACH: stained­glass studio, and a spices. Warm service.
Route 58 Delicatessen $ Montessori school. The kitchen
American utilizes local ingredients in
4000 Virginia Beach Blvd, 23462 creative dishes such as sweet REHOBOTH BEACH: The Back
Tel (757) 227-5868 potato­pumpkin soup and Porch Café $$$
An authentic deli serving over­ Asian vegetables with American
stuffed pastrami and corned beef cellophane noodles. 59 Rehoboth Ave, 19971
sandwiches. Many items, such as Tel (302) 227-3674 Closed Nov–Apr
smoked fish and knishes, are This welcoming eatery
imported from New York. HUNTINGTON: Jim’s Steak housed in an old beach house
and Spaghetti House $$ has been drawing crowds
American since 1974. The extensive wine
DK Choice 920 5th Ave, 25701 list, enticing seafood menu,
WILLIAMSBURG: Christiana Tel (304) 696-9788 Closed Sun and live music all contribute
Campbell’s Tavern $$ Old­school and family­friendly, to the lively atmosphere.
American Jim’s has traditionally served Popular Sunday brunch.
Waller St, 23187 as a downtown meeting
Tel (757) 229-2141 place for locals. Menu staples WILMINGTON: Harry’s
This historic tavern, now run such as spaghetti, fish sand­ Seafood Grill $$$
by Colonial Williamsburg, was wiches, and home­made pies Seafood
once one of George haven’t changed much over 101 S Market St, 19801
Washington’s favorites. Today, the years. Tel (302) 777-1500
visitors can enjoy old­time Harry’s boasts innovative cuisine
seafood specialties such as WHEELING: Later Alligator $$ made with fresh ingredients, and
sherried crab stew, shrimp and International served in an attractive space.
scallop brochette, and crab 2145 Market St, 26003 The fresh raw bar offerings
cakes, all served with spoon­ Tel (304) 233-1606 Closed Sun and award­winning crab cakes
bread or sweet potato muffins This colorful café housed in are always in demand. There
and to the sound of sea shanties. an old saloon is frequented by is also a lively bar area and a
regulars in the morning for its breezy patio deck.
gourmet coffee. Popular items
WILLIAMSBURG: The Trellis $$ on the menu include freshly
American made crêpes, creative sandwiches,
403 Duke of Gloucester St, 23187 and home­made soups.
Tel (757) 229-8610
The Trellis’s menu offers seasonal
dishes such as home­made pâtés
and terrines, as well as sweet red Delaware
pepper soup with lump crab
meat. The wine list features DOVER: Doc Magrogan’s
numerous labels from Virginia. Oyster House $$
Seafood
1131 N Dupont Hwy, 19901
Tel (302) 857-3223
West Virginia Doc Magrogan’s lures visitors
from nearby casinos with its
CHARLESTON: exceptionally fresh seafood and a
The Chop House $$$ wide variety of hand­crafted beers.
American Popular raw bar offerings include
1003 Charleston Town Ctr, 25389 clams, mussels, crab, and oysters
Tel (304) 344-3950 flown in fresh every day. The casual
Popular with businesspeople environs are reminiscent of a The Colonial-style Jessop’s Tavern in New
and couples, the Chop House turn­of­the­century watering hole. Castle, Delaware
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 28–9
 THE
SOUTHEAST

Introducing the Southeast 242–249

North Carolina 250–253
South Carolina 254–257
Georgia 258–263
Tennessee 264–269
Kentucky 270–273
242  THE SOUTHEAST

The Southeast at a Glance

Although the five Southeast states – North and South
Carolina, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Georgia – share a
common history and culture, they are quite distinct
from one another. The region covers three different
topographical areas. To the east, the low-lying coastal
plains along the Atlantic include the historic cities of
Savannah, Georgia, and Charleston, South Carolina,
bordered by pristine beaches. The central Blue Ridge
and Appalachian Mountains hold acres and acres of
stunningly scenic wilderness, while in the inland foothill Lexington (see p272) is Kentucky’s
cities of Louisville, Kentucky, and Tennessee’s twin music main horse-breeding center. Visitors
are allowed access to most of the
capitals, Nashville and Memphis are linked to the Gulf stud farms surrounding the city.
of Mexico by the Mississippi and other broad rivers.
Atlanta is the main commercial center.

Louisville
Lexington

Owensboro Elizabethtown
KENTUCKY
Paducah (See pp270–73) Somerset

Bowling Green

Union City
Nashville Cookeville
Dyersburg

TENNESSEE
Jackson Columbia (See pp264–69)
Nashville (see pp266–7) is
Memphis
Tennessee’s state capital as well Chattanooga
as the nation’s country music
capital. The city’s ever-evolving
downtown, with its lively
restaurants, cafés, and nightclubs,
is the center of action, day
and night.
Atlanta

La Grange

Columbus

Atlanta (see pp262–3), Georgia’s

capital, is the place where Coca- Bainbridge
Cola was born in the 1880s. Since
then, the drink has become an
international favorite. The hard-
hitting TV news channel, CNN, is
also based in Atlanta.
Colorful azaleas blooming among the trees in one of Charleston’s plantation gardens
 INTRODUCING THE SOUTHEAST  243

Locator Map

0 kilometers 100
The Outer Banks (see p252) are a long chain of 0 miles 100
narrow barrier islands that runs along North
Carolina’s Atlantic Coast. Beside pristine beaches,
the other attractions here include historic
lighthouses and the site where the Wright
Brothers launched their first successful flight.

Pikeville

London

Kingsport
Winston-Salem Greensboro Rocky Mount
Knoxville Durham
Beaufort
NORTH CAROLINA Raleigh
Asheville
(See pp250–53)
Charlotte New Bern
Fayetteville
Jacksonville
Greenville Laurinburg
Dahlonega
SOUTH CAROLINA Wilmington
Greenwood (See pp254–57)
Florence
Columbia
Athens Myrtle Beach

Orangeburg
GEORGIA Augusta
(See pp258–63)

Macon
Charleston
Dublin Statesboro

Savannah
Cordele

Jesup
Albany
Brunswick Myrtle Beach (see p256),
Waycross South Carolina’s premier
resort, is the capital of the
Valdosta Grand Strand, a long sweep
of Atlantic coastline. The
beach and its environs
offer a wide variety of
seaside amusements.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 INTRODUCING THE SOUTHEAST  245

THE SOUTHEAST
One of the country’s most fascinating regions, the Southeast is home to two
of America’s most beautiful cities – Charleston and Savannah – as well as some
of its most pristine beaches and expanses of primeval forests. Culturally, the
region is famous for its vibrant musical traditions: country-and-western music
was born in Nashville, while the blues originated in Memphis.

The Southeast’s cities reflect the region’s rivers, is the heartland of the Colonial­era
proud cultural heritage. Celebrated for their plantation country. Farther inland are the
beauty and sophistication, Charleston and farmlands of North Carolina, the primary
Savannah are urban gems, with lushly land­ US producer of tobacco products, and
scaped parks and gracious homes. Both the rolling bluegrass fields of Kentucky’s
actively preserve their stately architecture verdant Horse Country. At the region’s
and support a wide range of hotels, rest­ center lies unforgettable mountain scenery.
aurants, and cultural institutions. The quiet
college town of Durham, North Carolina, History
considered the “most educated city in Long before the arrival of the first Europeans,
America,” stands in direct contrast to this area was home to a highly developed
burgeoning commercial centers such as Native American culture, known as the
Atlanta, Georgia, the economic capital of the Moundbuilders. Evidence of their large
“New South.” Equally engaging are Nashville, cities can be seen at Georgia’s Ocmulgee
the capital of country­and­western music, National Monument. Later generations of
and Memphis, the birthplace of the blues. Native Americans, especially the Cherokee
The region’s natural landscape is just who lived in western North Carolina and
as distinctive. Nearly a thousand miles of northern Georgia, were among North
Atlantic coastline are formed by a long America’s most civilized tribes. Other tribes
series of offshore barrier islands, stretching included the Creek, Tuscarora, Yamasee,
from Cape Hatteras to Cumberland Island and Catawba, but by the early 1800s,
on the Florida border. Just inland, and most of the tribes had been decimated by
linked to the ocean by several broad war and disease, or driven westward.

Kentucky Derby, the annual horse-racing event held in Louisville’s Churchill Downs
Entrance to an elegant Southern home
246  THE SOUTHEAST

and it was their agricultural expertise that

made the land-owning “planters” the
wealthiest in the American colonies. Their
wealth, however, was based on slave labor,
and thousands of Africans were imported
to clear the swamps, dig canals, and
harvest the crops. Along the coast where
the main crops, rice and indigo, were
grown, the white colonists were a small
minority, outnumbered four to one by the
Canons on display at the Civil War Museum in workers whose labor they exploited.
Bardstown, Kentucky The great fortunes made in Carolina
inspired the creation in 1732 of another
Apart from a prominent Cherokee colony, Georgia, located to the south. In
community in the far western corner of many ways Georgia was a unique colony,
North Carolina, very few Native Americans funded by the government rather than
survive in the region today. private interests and founded with social,
In the early 1500s, explorers from Florida’s rather than commercial, intentions. For
Spanish colonies ventured northward, the first time in the Americas, slavery was
lured by Native Americans’ tales of great banned, as was drinking alcohol and
wealth. The Spanish were followed by the the presence of lawyers. The new colony,
French and then the English. But it was however, faltered and came under the
only in 1670, under Charles II, that the first control of Carolina, which introduced
successful colony, called Carolina, was slave-holding practices.
established near what is today Charleston. In December 1860, the state of South
Carolina’s first settlers came from the Carolina declared itself independent from
congested English colony on Barbados, the rest of the country. Though Georgia
followed soon after, the other Southeast
KEY DATES IN HISTORY states remained with the Union. It was only
1587 Sir Walter Raleigh sponsors the establishment after South Carolina forces attacked the
of an ill-fated colony at Roanoke Island in present-day fortress at Fort Sumter near Charleston, on
North Carolina
April 12, 1861, that Tennessee and North
1670 The first permanent English settlement in the
Carolina colony is established at Charleston
Carolina joined the rebel cause, which
1729 Carolina divided into North and South
became known as the Civil War. Ironically,
1763 The Anglo-Spanish treaty fixes the Mississippi
only Kentucky, the birthplace of both
River as the western extent of the Southeast colonies President Abraham Lincoln and
1792 Kentucky becomes the 15th US state Confederate President Jefferson Davis,
1795 The University of North Carolina, the country’s remained divided – a true border state.
first state-sponsored university, opens at Chapel Hill In the aftermath of the four-year Civil
1838 The government forcibly expels the Cherokees War that ended slavery, African-Americans
westward on the “Trail of Tears”
continued to struggle against the
1861 Confederates attack Fort Sumter
prejudices of white Southerners and faced
1864 General Sherman spares Savannah at the end
of his notorious “March to the Sea” blatant inequality. They were forced to use
1903 The Ohio-based Wright Brothers make the first separate facilities, and building entrances
successful powered airplane flight at Kitty Hawk, North were labeled especially for them. While
Carolina
primarily a grassroots campaign, many
1976 Georgia Governor Jimmy Carter elected 39th
president of the United States of the battles were led by Atlanta-born
1996 Atlanta hosts the Olympics Baptist minister Martin Luther King, Jr.,
2002 Jimmy Carter wins the Nobel Peace Prize who practiced the use of nonviolent direct
action to win equality for black people.
 INTRODUCING THE SOUTHEAST  247

This is also true of literature, which

witnessed the creativity of such diverse
writers as Alice Walker, Thomas Wolfe,
Carson McCullers, and James Agee, and
characters and settings such as “God’s
Little Acre” and “Catfish Row” from George
Gershwin’s opera Porgy & Bess. Music,
literature, and the arts still dominate
Southeastern culture, and numerous
events and festivals are celebrated all
Grave of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. in Atlanta, a pilgrimage site over the region.
for people from all over the world
Tourism
Though Dr. King was assassinated while The Appalachain Mountains and their
supporting black sanitation workers in local constituents, the Blue Ridge and
Memphis in 1968, the movement for Great Smoky Mountains, offer miles of
Civil Rights eventually saw his colleague spectacular scenery in near-pristine
Andrew Young elected to Congress from condition. Much of the mountain
Georgia. Young was later elected mayor landscape is now preserved in a series
of Atlanta in 1981. of local, state, and national parks and
forests. The Great Smoky Mountains
Society, Culture, & the Arts National Park, in particular, is one of the
The Southeast has been, and continues to country’s most popular, drawing more
be, a major contributor to American culture. than 10 million visitors each year. Other
Atlanta gave the world Coca-Cola and attractions include the beach resorts
CNN, while Kentucky’s Colonel Sanders that proliferate along the Outer Banks in
and his Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurants North Carolina, and Louisville’s Kentucky
helped spread the idea of fast food. Derby, reputed to be the biggest racing
Kentucky is also well known all over the event in the country.
world for its production of high-quality
bourbon whiskey and high-speed horses.
Though important in their own right, the
region’s cities also serve as a conduit into
its hinterlands. Nashville’s country music, for
example, is deeply rooted in Appalachian
folkways, while the blues and rock ’n’ roll
of Memphis emerge from the various
ethnic and historical cultures of the broad
Mississippi Delta. A roll call of the artists
born and bred here spans all musical
genres – the Everly Brothers, Bill Monroe,
and Loretta Lynn are from Kentucky;
John Coltrane, Doc Watson, Thelonius
Monk, and Nina Simone hail from North
Carolina; the Allman Brothers, James
Brown, Otis Redding, and Gladys Knight
came from Georgia; while Tennessee can
take credit for Chet Atkins, Tina Turner,
Carl Perkins, and its favorite adopted son, Local band performing in one of the many clubs in
Elvis Presley (1935–77). downtown Nashville, Tennessee
248  THE SOUTHEAST

Exploring the Southeast

Despite the Southeast’s diverse landscape and topography,
the region is compact enough to tour in about a week.
The coastal cities of Charleston and Savannah, as well as
the inland metropolises of Atlanta, Nashville, and
Memphis, are well linked by road and short-haul airline
flights. The broad crest of mountains that rise up at the
center include such prime attractions as the scenic Blue Dayton
Ridge Parkway and the Great Smoky Mountains National
INDIANA
Park. Among the region’s other highlights are Georgia’s Indianapolis
Cincinnati
Covington
beautiful Golden Isles and Kentucky’s spectacular St. Louis
mountain landscapes and bluegrass pasturelands, 15
Chicago 71
famous for their thoroughbred horse farms. Louisville
Lexington
ILLINOIS Frankfort
Bardstown Harrodsburg
St.Louis Owensboro Elizabethtown Berea
231
Hodgenville
MISSOURI Mammoth Cave 27
Paducah National Park 65 Somerset

24 Hopkinsville London

Springfield
Kentucky 24
Bowling
Green
KENTUCKY
Lake 75

Clarksville
Union City 127
Little Rock
79 Nashville 40
Cookeville
Dyersburg Oak Ridge
ARKANSAS
40
TENNESSEE
51
Murfreesboro
Jackson 75
Columbia Watts
24 Bar Lake
45
Memphis 65
64

Memphis
Chattanooga

Baton Rouge Birmingham

Jackson MISSISSIPPI Dahlonega
Birmingham
Rome
Stone
Mountain Park
Sights at a Glance
Atlanta
North Carolina o Athens 27
1 Research Triangle Region p Dahlonega Hartsfield
2 Winston-Salem a Stone Mountain Park
ALABAMA
3 Blue Ridge Parkway s Atlanta pp262–3 La Grange
4 Asheville Birmingham
Tennessee
5 Charlotte Columbus
6 Outer Banks d Great Smoky Mountains
Montgomery
National Park Americus
7 Roanoke Island
h attah oochee

8 Beaufort f Chattanooga
g Nashville pp266–7
South Carolina h Memphis pp268–9 Albany
C

9 Charleston pp254–5
Kentucky
0 Columbia 19
t
Flin

q Myrtle Beach j Cumberland Gap National

Bainbridge
w Georgetown Historic Park
e Coastal Islands k Mammoth Cave National Park
l Berea
Georgia z Daniel Boone National Forest
r Savannah x Lexington
t Golden Isles c Harrodsburg
y Okefenokee Swamp National v Hodgenville
Wildlife Refuge b Bardstown
u Americus n Louisville
i Macon

For keys to symbols see back flap

 INTRODUCING THE SOUTHEAST  249

Key Mileage Chart

Highway Atlanta, GA

Major road 248 Savannah, GA 10 = Distance in miles

399
Railroad 10 = Distance in kilometers
207 310
Asheville, NC
State border 333 499
324 115 268
Charleston, SC
522 185 432
250 497 294 551
Nashville,TN
402 800 473 887
460 711 506 787 213
Memphis,TN
740 1143 814 1266 343
Columbus
379 583 283 540 213 423
Lexington, KY
609 938 455 869 343 681
O H I O 422 658 358 616 175 385 79
Louisville, KY
Charleston 678 1058 576 991 281 619 127
64
WEST
VIRGINIA 0 kilometers 100
Daniel Boone 0 miles 100
National Forest
Pikeville

Lynchburg Richmond
Cumberland Roanoke Portsmouth
Gap Nat'l VIRGINIA
Historic Park Ro
Outer
85 17 Banks
Kingsport
an

95
ok

Johnson City Winston- Roanoke

Durham Raleigh-Durham
e

Salem 64 Island
Greensboro Rocky Mount

und
Blue Ridge Research Raleigh
Great Smoky Parkway
Mts Nat'l Park Triangle Region Greenville
So
264
ico
40
Asheville NORTH CAROLINA New Bern ml
Gastonia
Charlotte 1 Pa
Charlotte- 52 Fayetteville Morehead City
Spartanburg Douglas Jacksonville
Rock Hill 40
Laurinburg
Greenville 77 Beaufort

Gainesville Anderson
S O UTH 95

20

85 Greenwood C AR O L I NA Florence
Wilmington

Columbia
Athens 52
Myrtle Beach
Clark Hill Aiken
Orangeburg ATLANTIC
20 Lake Augusta Georgetown OCEAN
26 17

GEORGIA
Charleston
Sav

Macon
an

Dublin Statesboro Coastal

na

Islands
h

16 95

Altam Savannah
Cordele aha

75
Jesup
82
Tifton
Waycross Brunswick
Golden Isles
84
Valdosta Okefenokee Swamp Nat'l
Wildlife Refuge
Tallahassee
Jacksonville
FLORIDA

Landscape clouded in mist, as seen from Clingman’s Dome,

Great Smoky Mountains National Park
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
250  THE SOUTHEAST

North Carolina P UNC Visitor Center

250 E Franklin St, Chapel Hill. Tel (919)
The site of the first English outpost in America in 1585, 962-1630. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.
North Carolina became the 12th of the original 13 states in Closed Sat, Sun & public hols.
∑ unc.edu
1789 – it was also one of the country’s 13 original colonies.
While the population is increasingly based in cities, much of P Duke University
Visitor Center
the state remains covered with fields of tobacco, a crop whose 2138 Campus Dr., Durham. Tel (919)
politics have been the source of local and national debate. 684-3214. Open 8:30am–4:30pm
Still, the sight of green fields dotted with plank-wood, tin- Mon–Fri, 8:30am–12:30pm Sat.
roofed drying sheds continues to conjure up a classic image
of North Carolina. Though tobacco-growing farms dominate
the state’s center, the east is lined by miles of pristine Atlantic 2 Winston-Salem
Ocean beachfront, and the western mountains are among the * 239,000. ~ @ n 200
most majestic found east of the Rockies. Brookstown Ave 27101, (336)
728-4200. ∑ visitwinston
salem.com
well known for a Civil War exhibit
on the state’s divided loyalties. North Carolina’s close ties with
A few miles north toward the the tobacco industry are evi-
airport, the North Carolina dent in the fact that two major
Museum of Art holds three US cigarette brands have been
floors of statuary and paintings. named after this twin city.
Among these is the 16th- century Moravian immigrants first settled
Madonna and Child in a Landscape here in 1766. Their descendants
by the artist Lucas Cranach the celebrate their roots at Old
Elder, which had been stolen by Salem, an interesting restoration
the Nazis. When this was of a Colonial village, where
discovered, the museum guides dressed in period cos-
returned the painting to its tume demonstrate the making
original owner, who in turn of traditional crafts. They also
loaned it back to the museum. relate the story of this Protestant
The campus of University of North Carolina, Of the two university towns, the sect’s journey from Moravia to
Chapel Hill smaller Chapel Hill, is by far this region. Gift shops through-
the quainter of the two, with its out the village offer such
1 Research Triangle wooded University of North Moravian wares as handmade
Carolina (UNC) campus, More- lace and pewter ornaments.
Region head Planetarium, art museum, The complex is set invitingly on
* 2,000,000. ~ £ @ n 101 E and genteel Carolina Inn. Down- a hill and is compact enough to
Morgan St, Durham, (919) 687-0288, town Durham, wedged between be covered in an hour or two.
(800) 446-8604 ∑ durham-nc.com. Duke University campuses, carries Adjacent to the village is the
a reputation for innovation, and is Museum of Early Southern
The state capital of Raleigh forms home to the Durham Bulls minor- Decorative Arts. Guides take
a geographic triangle with the league baseball team. Alumni and visitors through 24 rooms that
two major university towns of students of the two universities exhibit antebellum furnishings
Durham and Chapel Hill. This enjoy the lively rivalry between and artifacts from across the
region is the state’s intellectual their respective sports teams – region. There is also a museum
center, and has spawned the high- Duke’s Blue Devils and UNC’s Tar for children downstairs.
technology Research Triangle Heels. Another landmark is the
Park, a corporate campus located Duke Lemur Center, home to
between the three cities. the largest population of lemurs
Primarily a business hub and outside of their native Madagascar.
travel gateway, the Triangle
offers some interesting sights. E North Carolina Museum
Raleigh is known as the “City of of History
Oaks” for the many oak trees 5 E Edenton St, Raleigh. Tel (919) 807-
lining the streets. Downtown 7900. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat,
Raleigh has a handful of modern noon–5pm Sun. 7
∑ ncmuseumofhistory.org
museums located across from
the 1840 Greek Revival State E North Carolina Museum of Art
Capitol, including the Sports Hall 2110 Blue Ridge Rd, Raleigh. Tel (919)
of Fame, the Museum of Natural 839-6262. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
Sciences, and the North Carolina (to 9pm Fri), 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. 7 Actors dressed in period costume, Old
Museum of History. The latter is ∑ ncartmuseum.org Salem Colonial village
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 NORTH CAROLINA  251

A panoramic view of lush vegetation and mountains from the Blue Ridge Parkway

P Old Salem people, a museum relates the Thomas Wolfe State Historic
900 Old Salem Rd. Tel (336) 721-7300. history of the Cherokee people, Site. Asheville is said to be
Open 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, focusing on the forcible among the healthiest towns
1–4:30pm Sun. Closed Easter, removal of the tribe in 1838 to in the country, with many
Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. & 7 Oklahoma on the “Trail of Tears.” health-food stores, cafés,
∑ oldsalem.org The town of Cherokee itself has bookstores, organic restaurants,
E Museum of Early Southern a large Native American-run and a vibrant arts and music
Decorative Arts gambling casino. scene, patronized by a non-
924 S Main St. Tel (336) 721-7360. conformist and sophisticated
∑ mesda.org populace. It is probably better
4 Asheville known for its 250-room, art-
studded, Biltmore Estate to
* 88,000. @ n 36 Montford
the south of town. This French
3 Blue Ridge Ave, (828) 258-6129.
Renaissance-style mansion
Parkway ∑ exploreasheville.com
holds a collection of 18th- and
n (828) 298-0398. ∑ nps.gov/blri Surrounded by mountains, 19th-century art and sculpture,
this town’s commercial district and also has the distinction of
A scenic two-lane highway, retains many Art Deco build- being the largest residence in
the Blue Ridge Parkway (see ings from its boom years as America. Beside the main Neo-
pp50–51) runs 469 miles an early 20th- century resort. Classical house, the splendid
(755 km) south from Virginia Downtown Asheville evokes estate also has a winery, a brand
along the Blue Ridge Mountain the period of local author, new hotel, a deluxe inn (see
ridge-line. Its most scenic Thomas Wolfe (1900–38), who p276), and gardens designed
stretches lie in North Carolina, wrote about his hometown in by Frederick Law Olmsted,
where the road meanders for Look Homeward Angel. Today who also designed New York’s
250 miles (402 km) past peaks, the modest “Dixieland” Central Park. Visitors should
waterfalls, and the towering, boardinghouse described in expect long lines, as the estate
6,684-ft (2,037-m) Mount Mitchell. the novel is preserved as the attracts huge crowds, making
The National Park Service’s it among the country’s most
most popular destination with visited house tours, along
over 23 million visitors every with the White House and
year, the route has a maximum Elvis Presley’s “Graceland” (see
speed limit of 45 mph (72 km/h), p269). Asheville also makes a
which is strictly enforced. It is great base for exploring the
most scenic during spring and surrounding mountain region.
fall. Some sections close in
winter. There are ample oppor- P Thomas Wolfe State
tunities to detour to nearby Historic Site
trails and mountain towns such 52 N Market St. Tel (828) 253-8304.
as Boone and Blowing Rock. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 7
The parkway ends at the ∑ wolfememorial.com
entrance to Great Smoky P Biltmore Estate
Mountains National Park, 1 Lodge St. Tel (828) 225-1333.
north of Cherokee (see p264). Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily; House:
Here, at the reservation of the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, one of the most 9am–5pm daily. &
Eastern Band of Cherokee visited houses in America ∑ biltmore.com
252  THE SOUTHEAST

Cape Hatteras National Seashore, protecting the Outer Banks’ northern coast

5 Charlotte 6 Outer Banks state’s license plates commemo-

* 810,000. n 501 S College St, (704)
rates the Wright Brothers’ first
* 57,800. n 1 Visitors Center Rd,
331-2700. ∑ charlottesgotalot.com
historic flight, which took place
Manteo, (877) 629-4386.
here. The Wright Brothers
∑ outerbanks.org
Thanks to an influx of banking National Memorial stands at
and insurance industry firms , the very site where Orville and
which revitalized the city in the North Carolina’s Atlantic coastline Wilbur Wright launched Flyer,
1990s and early 2000s, Charlotte is made up of a long chain of the first successful experiment
is a booming city, and the second narrow barrier islands known in powered flight in 1903.
largest in the Southeast after as the Outer Banks. Most of the A few minutes drive south at
Jackonsville, Florida. northern coast is protected as Jockey’s Ridge State Park,
The Levine Museum of the part of the Cape Hatteras hang-gliders participate in a
New South explores the history National Seashore, where long modern version of the Wright
of North Carolina – from the stretches of pristine beach, dune, Brothers’ adventures, while
Civil War, to slavery, to the Civil and marsh shelter wild ponies, “sandboarders” ride the largest
Rights movement and gives an sea turtles, and many varieties of sand dune on the East Coast.
informative overview of the waterbirds. The coastline’s many “Sandboarding,” or running
region. The Harvey B Gantt historic lighthouses, life-saving headfirst down the sheer 110-ft-
Center for African-American Arts stations, and pirate lore are as (34-m-) high sand wall, is a
& Culture, named after the first important a part of the Outer revered local tradition. The dune
African-American Mayor, honors Banks’ maritime heritage as is its is also a great spot to watch the
the contributions that Africans seafood industry. sunset. Fewer people venture
and African-Americans have Among the dozens of light- to the inland side of the island,
made in the South. Fifty eight houses, the 1847 Bodie Island where a slow kayak ride through
artworks by African-American Lighthouse is the only one still in the tidal marsh, or a walk
artists comprise the Center’s operation. A free ferry ride through the scenic maritime
permanent collection. Along transports cars and passengers forest at Nags Head Woods
with revolving exhibitions, and between Hatteras Island and Ecological Preserve, hold a
education programmes, the Center Ocracoke Island. Hatteras’s distinc- quieter appeal. Peculiar to
also offers a community outreach tive black-and-white spiral Cape barrier islands, these maritime
programme. Around the corner Hatteras Lighthouse, built in 1870,
from here is the Bechtler Museum is the tallest brick lighthouse in the
of Modern Art, which houses an world at 193 ft (59 m). The village
impressive collection of iconic of Ocracoke has a good selection
artists, such as Miró, Picasso, of inns and restaurants. Visitors can
Warhol, and Hepworth. connect with ferries (reservations
recommended) from here.
E Levine Museum of the In the early 20th century, bridges
New South built from the mainland brought in
200 E 7th St. Tel (704) 333 1887. the tourist trade, and now hotels
∑ museumofthenewsouth.org and resort-home developments
E Harvey B Gantt Center for line the northernmost coast from
African-American Arts & Culture Corolla all the way to Nags Head.
551 S Tryon St. Tel (704) 547 3700. In addition to the sun, surf, and
∑ ganttcenter.org sand, this tourist region offers
E Bechtler Museum of
many historic attractions and
Modern Art family amusements, in the town of
420 S Tryon St. Tel (704) 353 9200. Kill Devil Hills. The “First in Flight” The Firebird sculpture at the Bechtler
∑ bechtler.org slogan found on coins and the Museum of Modern Art
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 NORTH CAROLINA  253

8 Beaufort
* 12,800. n (252) 728-2141
(Morehead City).

Beaufort’s considerable
charms lie in its historic B&B
inns, sea-food markets, and
restaurants. The highlight of
this coastal resort’s small
attractive waterfront is the
North Carolina Maritime
Museum, which interprets
The landscaped Elizabethan Gardens on Roanoke Island the boating, fishing, and pirate
history of this coastline. A
forests, on the rough Atlantic colonists had vanished without swashbuckling robot of
Coast, are lined with banks of a trace. Today, the Fort Raleigh Edward “Blackbeard” Teach,
sturdy live oaks that protect the National Historic Site, the a notorious pirate who was
lush vegetation from the adjacent Elizabethan Gardens, captured and killed off the
onslaughts of the water and and the nearby theme park, Outer Banks in November
wind. Follow the signs to the with a replica of a 16th-century of 1718, welcomes visitors.
preserve west off Hwy 158 close sailing ship as its centerpiece, all A popular event is the family-
to the Wright Brothers Memorial. relate the story of this legendary oriented, educational Pirate
“Lost Colony.” Day, which is dedicated to
E Wright Brothers National At the northern tip of the pirate lore and has costumes,
Memorial island, Fort Raleigh preserves flag flying, and treasure hunts.
US Hwy 158, milepost 7.5, Kill Devil the ruins of the colony’s original At the docks, private ferries
Hills. Tel (252) 473-2111. Open 9am– disembark-ation point, and take passengers out to the
5pm daily. Closed Dec 24, 25. & 7 ranger-led tours reveal what little deserted sands of Lookout
∑ nps.gov/wrbr
is known about it. A short drive Island, preserved from
O Nags Head Woods south, at the port of Manteo, the development as the Cape
Ecological Preserve Roanoke Island Festival Park Lookout National Seashore.
701 W Ocean Acres Dr, Kill Devil Hills. tells the story of the first ship of The ecology of Lookout Island
Tel (252) 441-2525. Open dawn–dusk explorers through tours of a is similar to Cape Hatteras,
daily. & recreation of the Elizabeth II. with virgin beaches, marshland,
P Cape Hatteras Lighthouse There is also a museum that and dunes, all rich in birdlife,
Hatteras Is, off Hwy 12, 1 mile (1.6 km) relates both the Native and but the limited access makes it
SE of Buxton. Tel (252) 995-4474. European history of the region. more remote and less visited.
Open mid-Apr–mid-Oct: 9am–4:30pm
daily (to 5:30pm Jul–Aug). & P Fort Raleigh National E North Carolina
∑ nps.gov/caha Historic Site Maritime Museum
US Hwy 64/264, Manteo. Tel (252) 315 Front St. Tel (252) 728-7317.
} Ocracoke Island
473-5772. Open 9am–5pm daily. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm
Ocracoke Car Ferry to Cedar Island or Sat, 1–5pm Sun. Closed Jan 1,
Closed Dec 25. & Elizabethan
Swan Quarter. Tel (800) 293-3779 for Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 7
Gardens only. ∑ nps.gov/fora
fares & schedules (subject to change). ∑ ncmaritimemuseums.com
∑ ocracokeisland.com/nc-ferry.htm P Roanoke Island
Festival Park } Cape Lookout
Port of Manteo. Tel (252) 475-1500. National Seashore
7 Roanoke Island Open 9am–4pm or 6pm daily 3601 Bridge St, Morehead City.
(seasonal, call & check). Closed Jan 1, Tel (252) 728-2250. Open daily.
n 1 Visitors Center Rd, Manteo, (877)
Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. & 7 Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
629-4386. ∑ outerbanks.org ∑ nps.gov/calo
∑ roanokeisland.com
A marsh island lying between the
Outer Banks and the mainland,
Roanoke Island was the site of
the first English settlement in
North America. The first expedition
to these shores, sponsored by
Sir Walter Raleigh, was in 1584.
In 1587, another ship carrying
more than 100 colonists
disembarked at the island to
create a permanent settlement.
But when the next group arrived
three years later, all the earlier The waterfront at Salt Marsh and Newport River, Beaufort
254  THE SOUTHEAST

South Carolina fountain, stands across from the

popular restaurant row. Visitors
After separating from its sibling North Carolina in 1729, the can explore the cobblestone
South Carolina colony spread Upcountry, where Welsh, Irish, alleyways in search of hidden
and Scottish immigrants established small owner-operated gardens, gargoyles, and harbor
farms, in sharp contrast to the Lowcountry gentry. By the views. To the west of Waterfront
Park, the Gibbes Museum of Art
1860s, however, the differences between the two had reveals local history through land­
subsided and a unified South Carolina became the first scape paintings and portraits of
Southern state to declare independence from the Union. famous South Carolinians.
Soon after, the first shot of the American Civil War was fired
P Heyward-Washington House
at Fort Sumter. Today, the state’s “glory days” of resistance
87 Church St. Tel (843) 722­2996.
and revolution are re-created at plantations, museums, and Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–
monuments. Many visitors, however, head straight for the 5pm Sun. & Closed major public
miles of beaches. hols. ∑ charlestonmuseum.org
P Edmondston-Alston House
9 Charleston 21 E Battery. Tel (843) 722­7171. Open
* 130,000. ~ £ @ 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 1–4:30pm
n 375 Meeting St, (843) 853­8000. Sun–Mon. Closed major public hols.
& ∑ edmondalston.com
_ Spoleto Festival (late May–early
Jun). ∑ charlestoncvb.com E Gibbes Museum of Art
135 Meeting St. Tel (843) 722­2706.
One of the south’s most beautiful Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 1–5pm
cities and South Carolina’s first Sun. Closed major public hols. & 7
capital, Charleston is situated on ∑ gibbesmuseum.org
the tip of a peninsula between
the Ashley and Cooper Rivers. The charming 1772 Heyward-  South Carolina Aquarium
Named after King Charles II of Washington House 100 Aquarium Wharf. Tel (843) 720­
England, the city was founded 1990. Open Mar–Aug: 9am–5pm
in 1670 and soon became a A trip south from Old City daily; Sep–Feb: 9am–4pm daily.
wealthy colony of tobacco, rice, Market to the Battery takes in Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7
and indigo plantations. The first many highlights along Church ∑ scaquarium.org
shot of the Civil War was fired Street, including the old maga­ Picturesquely set overlooking
just off the city’s harbor, where zine, the Gothic French Huguenot the harbor, Charleston’s
people gathered to watch Church, and the Heyward- aquarium provides an excellent
the Confederate siege of Fort Washington House. This 1772 introduction to the indigenous
Sumter. Today, Charleston house was built by rice planter creatures found within the
retains much of its original Daniel Heyward and has a collec­ state’s aquatic habitats. These
period architecture and is a tion of Charleston­made furniture. range from Appalachian rivers
popular destination for A half­block detour to the east and blackwater swamps, to salt
antebellum house­and­garden on Chalmers leads to the Old marshes and coral reefs.
tours, horse­and­carriage rides, Slave Mart, once one of the
fine Southern cuisine, and busiest in the American colonies. P Fort Sumter Visitor Center
plantation retreats, including At the Battery, the Edmondston- 340 Concord St. Tel (843) 883­
those on Ashley River Road and Alston House features two floors 3123. Open 8:30am–5pm daily.
McLeod Plantation Historic Site. of an opulent 1825 mansion over­ Closed Thanksgiving, Jan 1, Dec 25.
The historic district’s beautifully looking the harbor. White Point & boat tours. 7 ∑ nps.gov/fosu
preserved architecture evokes Gardens Park lies to the south, An embarkation point for boat
the city’s Colonial and early while in the north, Waterfront tours to Fort Sumter, the visitor
American past. The civic and Park, with its walk­through center relates the story of the
religious buildings here range
from styles as varied as Colonial
and Georgian, Greek and Gothic
Revival, to Italianate and Victorian.
Among the highlights are dis­
tinctive Charlestonian residences,
set perpendicular to the street
with grand piazzas running along
their lengths. The only high
structures are the church
steeples. Horse­and­carriage
rides through tree­lined streets
provide a graceful overview. Civil War cannon lying preserved at Fort Sumter
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 SOUTH CAROLINA  255

American Civil War’s first battle.

The fort, which stands on an
island at the entrance to
Charleston harbor, was controlled
by Union troops. In April 1861,
the Confederate army besieged
the fort. When Union troops
tried to bring in supplies, the
Confederates, who had occupied
nearby Fort Johnson, unleashed
a 34-hour bombardment. Union Flowers in bloom at Audubon Swamp Gardens, Magnolia Plantation
forces surrendered on April 14,
1861, and the fort remained Natural History galleries; the of Charleston-style country
under Confederate control until former has dugout canoes and living. Of them, the grandest is
1865. Ironically, General costumed mannequins, and Middleton Place, with its 1755
Beauregard, the Confederate the latter has a number of mansion located on a bluff
leader, was a student of the mounted skeletons of prehistoric overlooking the US’s oldest
defending Union commander, animals such as the Cretaceous landscaped gardens. Close by,
Major Robert Anderson, at the dinosaur Thescelosaurus neglectus. Drayton Hall is one of the
US Military Academy at West country’s finest examples of
Point, New York (see p101). Fort E Ashley River Plantations Colonial architecture. Built in
Sumter has been preserved Middleton Place: 4300 Ashley River 1738, the Georgian Palladian
unchanged since the end of the Rd. Tel (843) 556-6020. Open 9am– mansion has been preserved
war as a National Monument. 5pm daily. Closed Dec 25. & in its original condition without
∑ middletonplace.org Drayton electricity or plumbing. A daily
E Charleston Museum Hall: 3380 Ashley River Rd. Tel (843) program on African-American
360 Meeting St. Tel (843) 722-2996. 769-2600. Open 9:30am–3:30pm or heritage is held here.
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon– 4:30pm (seasonal). Closed Jan 1, 1st
Magnolia Plantation is a
5pm Sun. Closed Easter, Thanksgiving, week Feb, Thanksgiving, Dec 24, 25
more modest house. Its prized
Dec 25. & 7 & 31. & ∑ draytonhall.org
Magnolia Plantation: 3550 Ashley
attractions are the acres of
∑ charlestonmuseum.org riverfront informal gardens with
River Rd. Tel (843) 571-1266.
This museum presents a compre- Open 9am–4:30pm daily. & charming pathways that lead
hensive overview of the city’s ∑ magnoliaplantation.com through a profusion of flowers,
history from pre-Colonial days. and the Audubon Swamp
Its most distinctive exhibits are Within a short drive upriver, three Gardens, a lush tupelo-and-
in the Native American and house tours provide a glimpse cypress sanctuary.

Downtown Charleston
South Carolina
1 Charleston Historic District Aquarium

2 South Carolina Aquarium ET ET

C O NC O

E E
S TR S TR Fort Sumter
N Charleston E
TT
3 Fort Sumter Visitor Center AN Museum
AR
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ET CH
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4 Charleston Museum
E
S TR
Charleston HN ET
International JO ST
ST RE
ON IET
TA ST
Airport TS NR N
HE U
ET

HU HO
EAST

12 miles (20 km)

KI

Madison L
CA
NG

Amtrak Station
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For keys to symbols see back flap Nathaniel-Russell -Alston House
House
256  THE SOUTHEAST

0 Columbia
* 131,600. £ @ n 1101 Lincoln
St, (803) 545-0002.
∑ columbiacvb.com

Situated at the fall line of the

Congaree River – the area that
marked the limit of inland
navigation – this city was
declared the state capital over
Charleston in 1786. Although
General William T. Sherman The Grand Strand at Myrtle Beach, a popular tourist attraction
destroyed most of Columbia
during the Civil War, the State cypress swamp ecosystem. The for a week-long party. “The Shag,”
House managed to survive swamp is at its best from late fall South Carolina’s official state
intact. Today, six bronze stars to early spring. dance, was invented here and
mark the spots where Union started a craze all over the coun-
cannonballs hit the 1855 copper- E South Carolina State Museum try. The richer crowd vacations
domed building, located in the 301 Gervais St. Tel (803) 898-4921. at exclusive resort communities,
center of the quiet downtown Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon– but everyone ventures to
on Gervais Street. 5pm Sun. Closed Mon, Easter, the nearby fishing village of
On the banks of the river, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 Murrell’s Inlet for seafood.
∑ scmuseum.org
the South Carolina State South of Myrtle Beach two
Museum is housed in an artfully E South Carolina Confederate attractions make a worthwhile
recycled textile mill built in Relic Room and Museum detour. On the inland side of
1894. Informative exhibits on 301 Gervais St. Tel (803) 737-8095. the coastal Hwy 17, 16 miles
the state’s natural, cultural, and Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat; 1–5pm (26 km) south of the beach,
industrial history are displayed first Sun of month. Closed public hols. is Brookgreen Gardens, land-
here. The adjacent South & 7 ∑ crr.sc.gov scaped around 550 works of
Carolina Confederate Relic O Congaree National Park statuary by 250 artists. Oceanside,
Room and Museum maintains 100 N Park Rd, Hopkins. Tel (803) 776- Huntington Beach State Park
a huge collection of artifacts 4396. Open daily. ∑ nps.gov/cong offers access to an undeveloped
that trace the military history beach and salt-marsh boardwalk,
of South Carolina’s participation as well as an art studio that once
in US wars from the Civil War q Myrtle Beach belonged to Anna Huntington,
onward, as well as an exhibit * 23,000. £ @ n 1200 N Oak St,
the sculptor who created
on the history and sometimes (800) 356-3016. ∑ visitmyrtle Brookgreen Gardens in the 1930s.
controversial meanings of the beach.com
Confederate flag. While Southern } Brookgreen Gardens
traditionalists proclaim the flag This popular beach is the center 1931 Brookgreen Dr. Tel (843) 235-
a symbol of regional pride, of the “Grand Strand,” a long 6000. Open 9:30am–5pm daily.
many others see it as a symbol sweep of the Atlantic coastline Closed Dec 25. & 7
of white supremacy that should dominated by hotels, golf ∑ brookgreen.org
be abolished. A 20-minute courses, amusement parks, and
drive south of town, the arcades. Its heyday was in the
Congaree National Park offers 1950s, when as a Spring Break w Georgetown
visitors a close-up look at the destination, college students * 10,000. @ n 531 Front St, (843)
biodiversity found within a descended on this beach town 546-8436. ∑ visitgeorge.com

Set along the banks of the

Sampit River, Georgetown
was the center of the state’s
lucrative rice trade, producing
almost half the rice grown in the
US in the 1840s. Downtown’s
Rice Museum, housed in the
1842 Old Market building,
explains how the rice industry
influenced almost every facet
of life here. The museum’s
maritime gallery features
examples of historic local water-
craft. The museum leads out to
Civil War arms on display at the South Carolina State Museum, Columbia a waterfront park where a
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 SOUTH CAROLINA  257

wooden boardwalk makes an dunes, dense maritime forests

attractive marsh-side promenade. of live oak draped with Spanish
The commercial district is moss and muscadine vines, and
reminiscent of a Southern numerous lagoons and marshes
small town in the early-to-mid- harbor a mix of wildlife such as
1900s, a quiet contrast to the sea turtles, seabirds, alligators,
Grand Strand or the bustle of ospreys, and dolphins.
Charleston. About 15 miles The area’s unique African-
(24 km) south of Georgetown, American history evolved
Hampton Plantation State Park around the common heritage
is an unfurnished 1750 Georgian of slaves, brought here from
house. Visitors are able to explore the rice-growing regions of
the mansion, which overlooks West Africa, to cultivate this Canoeing at the Hilton Head Island Resort,
the remains crop along the Coastal Islands
of the old tidal creeks.
rice fields. Isolated on sponsors storytelling programs
The well these islands, and an annual festival that
maintained the Lowcountry celebrates Gullah culture.
grounds include Africans were Beyond St. Helena, Hunting
enormous oak Hampton Plantation State able to perpet- Island State Park preserves
trees and beautiful Park, Georgetown uate their cultural a natural barrier island
camellia gardens. traditions over the environment. Its highlights
generations. Today, their “Gullah” include a pleasant, uncrowded
E Rice Museum heritage remains distinct in the beach, a coastside campground,
633 Front St. Tel (843) 546-7423. local language, music, cuisine, and a 19th-century lighthouse.
Open 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat, and folkways. To the east of Hilton Head Island, named
11:30am–3:30pm Sun. Closed public Beaufort, two islands preserve after the English sea captain
hols. & 7 ∑ ricemuseum.org the natural and cultural history. William Hilton who explored the
O Hampton Plantation Both are accessible by car island in 1664, is South Carolina’s
State Park via Hwy 21, which offers a premier beach resort. It is domi-
1950 Rutledge Rd, McClellanville. panoramic view of the Port nated by several deluxe resort
Tel (843) 546-9361. Open 9am–5pm Royal Sound marsh landscape. complexes, including the Westin
daily (grounds). Closed Thanksgiving, On St. Helena Island, the Resort, Hyatt Regency, Crowne
Dec 25. & house (grounds free). renowned Penn Center is a Plaza, Disney, and, of course,
8 noon and 2pm Fri–Tue (house touchstone of Gullah culture. the Hilton, providing golf, tennis,
tours only). ∑ southcarolina A former school established and spa facilities. Among the
parks.com in 1862 by Pennsylvanian other recreational opportunities
abolitionists during the Civil are horseback riding, fishing,
War, the center has a distin- boating, sailing, and a variety
e Coastal Islands guished history from the of other water sports.
n Lowcountry Visitors Center & Civil Rights era. National leaders
Museum, I95 exit 33 & US17, (843) such as Martin Luther King Jr. E Penn Center
and groups such as the Southern 16 Penn Center Circle W, St. Helena
717-3090. ∑ southcarolinalow
Christian Leadership Conference Island. Tel (843) 838-2432. Open
country.com
met here to advance the Civil 11am–4pm Mon–Sat. Closed public
Extending from Georgetown Rights Movement. A modest hols. & 7 ∑ penncenter.com
south to beyond Savannah in museum located in the old O Hunting Island State Park
Georgia, the remote islands of schoolhouse relates numerous 2555 Sea Island Pkwy, Hunting Island.
the Lowcountry are a semi- events from the center’s past Tel (843) 838-2011. Open Apr–Oct:
tropical region with a rich natural through photographs and 6am–9pm daily; Nov–Mar: 6am–6pm
and cultural history. Shifting sand other displays. The center also daily. & ∑ southcarolinaparks.com

Port Royal Sound marshland at dusk, Coastal Islands

258  THE SOUTHEAST

Georgia A handful of museums also

highlight different aspects of
The last of the 13 original colonies, Georgia was founded by a the city’s history. The Telfair
British general, James Oglethorpe, to stop Spanish expansion Academy, at the center of the
north from Florida. While the state initially banned slavery, historic district, displays a fine
economic pressures from competing slave-holding colonies collection of Impressionist
paintings and decorative arts
led to its introduction and, as a result, it grew wealthy from within an 1818 Regency-style
slave labor on rice, indigo, and cotton plantations. Georgia mansion. At the western edge
was devastated during the Civil War, when General Sherman’s of the district, the Ships of the
“March to the Sea” set ablaze a swath of land across the state. Sea Maritime Museum holds
Led by pragmatic Atlanta (see pp262–3), Georgia was able ship models of all shapes and
sizes within the palatial 1819
to overcome the many hardships of its troubled past, and
Scarborough House. Located
was well positioned to benefit from the economic boom in just beyond the historic district,
the late 20th century. the Ralph Mark Gilbert Civil
Rights Museum has exhibits
Horse-and-carriage tours provide relating to the city’s growth
an introduction to historic and also offers in-depth African-
Savannah, though walking is American heritage tours.
the best way to explore the area. Many more attractions await
River Street is one of the in the surrounding Lowcountry –
city’s central entertainment the marsh-laden coastal region
districts, lined with seafood of Georgia and South Carolina
restaurants, raucous taverns, (see p257). A drive out on Hwy 80,
and souvenir shops housed in east towards Tybee Island, passes
old warehouses constructed of the Bonaventure Cemetery,
ballast-stones. Uphill, Factors where singer Johnny Mercer
Walk is a stately promenade and writer Conrad Aitken are
on top of the bluff. A few blocks buried. Also located en route is
in from the river, City Market the behemoth brick Fort Pulaski
A colorful Halloween display on River is another lively arts and National Monument, which
Street, Savannah entertainment district, housed rises like a medieval fortress at
in a series of historic buildings. the mouth of the Savannah River.
r Savannah Notable house museums
* 144,000. ~ £ @ n 301
throughout Savannah shed light P Davenport House
on the city’s history, architecture, 324 E State St. Tel (912) 236-8097.
Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd, (912) 944-
and culture, with many open to Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, 1–4pm
0455. ∑ visitsavannah.com
tours year-round. Of these, the Sun. Closed Jan 1, one week in Jan,
Labeled the “most beautiful Davenport House on Columbia Mar 17, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. &
∑ davenporthousemuseum.org
city in America” by the Paris Square is considered one of the
newspaper Le Monde, the lushly country’s finest examples of P Owens-Thomas House
landscaped parks and gracious Federal-style architecture, while 124 Abercorn St. Tel (912) 790-8800.
homes of Savannah have nearby, the Owens-Thomas Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–
earned it a reputation for scenic House on Oglethorpe Square 5pm Sun & Mon. Closed public hols.
beauty and sophistication. is among the finest Regency & 8 ∑ telfair.org
It was established in 1733 on buildings, built by English E Telfair Acedemy
the banks of the Savannah River, architect William Jay in 1816. 121 Barnard St. Tel (912) 790-8800.
16 miles (26 km) from the Other houses can be seen on Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–
Atlantic Ocean. Its founder, the popular Tour of Homes 5pm Sun & Mon. Closed public hols.
James Oglethorpe, laid out a and Gardens, held in spring. & ∑ telfair.org
town grid dotted with small
squares designed to deter
invaders. Today, even after the
turmoil of the Revolution and
Civil War, his design remains
intact, with the squares now
serving as scenic parks filled
with statues and fountains.
The city has one of the largest,
and perhaps most beautiful,
urban historic districts in the US,
which now thrives as the city’s
downtown commercial center. Fort Pulaski National Monument, Savannah
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 GEORGIA  259

y Okefenokee
Swamp National
Wildlife Refuge
Hwy 121, Folkston. @ n (912) 496-
7836. Open sunrise–5:30pm (7:30pm
in summer). Closed Thanksgiving, Dec
25. & 7 exhibits. ∑ fws.gov/
refuge/okefenokee

In the remote southeastern

Jekyll Island Club Hotel, one of many historic buildings on the Golden Isles corner of the state, the
Okefenokee Swamp is an exotic,
E Ships of the Sea Park in downtown St. Simons has primeval landscape of black-
Maritime Museum the 1872 St. Simons Lighthouse. water and cypress that harbors
41 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. Tel (912)Lying across Bloody Marsh from alligators, softshell turtles, otters,
232-1511. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. St. Simons, Sea Island is home and all kinds of birdlife. The
& ∑ shipsofthesea.org to the luxurious Cloister Hotel. Seminole name “Okefenokee,”
E Ralph Mark Gilbert Civil At the turn of the 20th century, loosely translated as “trembling
Rights Museum Jekyll Island was the exclusive earth,” characterizes the peat
460 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. preserve of the nation’s premier moss hammocks that bubble
Tel (912) 231-8900. Open 10am–4pm industrialists, such as the Vander- up from the water as a natural
Tue–Sat. & bilts, Goodyears, and Rockefellers. part of swamp ecology. Boat
P Fort Pulaski National
With the advent of World War II, tours provide a close-up view
Monument however, this vulnerable island at three sections of the swamp,
Hwy 80 E. Tel (912) 786-5787. was deemed unsafe and the including the Okefenokee
Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1, families moved elsewhere. Swamp Park near Waycross,
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & Today, its historic district and the wildlife refuge
∑ nps.gov/fopu comprises the “cottages,” headquarters at Folkston,
as the millionaires’ which provides details about
mansions were known, overnight paddling trips into
and the Jekyll Island the swamp. Fargo, near the
t Golden Club. The cottages have swamp’s western entrance,
Isles been restored and is the nearest town to the
* 68,000 (Glynn County).
operate as museums or Stephen C. Foster State
@ n Hwy 195 S between inns. Another highlight is Park, 18 miles (29 km) to
exit 42 & 38, (800) 933-2627. St. Simons Faith Chapel, with its the northeast. This section is
∑ goldenisles.com Lighthouse Tiffany windows. The hist- perched on a peninsula in
oric Jekyll River Wharf, next the deep recesses of the
The Spanish called the barrier to the Jekyll Island Club Hotel, swamp. Camping facilities and
islands off Georgia’s southern has a popular seafood restaurant. cabins are available here.
coast “the Golden Isles” – possibly There are a selection of franchise
after lost treasure or in reference motels and restaurants, offering O Okefenokee Swamp Park
to the golden hue of the marsh- family lodging and dining, on Hwy 177, Waycross. Tel (912) 283-
lands in fall – a term that tourism the ocean side. 0583. Open 9am–5:30pm daily.
promoters revived. While they Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. &
are primarily beach resorts, P Fort Frederica National 7 exhibits only. ∑ okeswamp.com
the islands retain a number of Monument O Stephen C. Foster State Park
historic sights. Fort Frederica Frederica Rd, St. Simons Island. Hwy 177. Tel (912) 637-5274.
National Monument, located Tel (912) 638-3639. Open 9am–5pm. Open 7am–10pm daily. &
& 7 ∑ nps.gov/fofr
on St. Simons, along a scenic ∑ gastateparks.org
stretch of the Frederica River,
holds the ruins of a fortified
village built by James Oglethorpe
in 1736. Another significant site is
the expanse of marsh off Demere
Road, south of Fort Frederica,
where the Battle of Bloody Marsh
was fought in 1742. This battle
between English and Spanish
forces determined which Colonial
power would control this part
of the American continent. Near
the island’s southern tip, Neptune Suwanee Canal Recreation Area, Okefenokee Swamp Refuge
260  THE SOUTHEAST

u Americus elected as the 39th president

* 16,400. @ n 123 W Lamar St,
in 1976, in the wake of Nixon’s
(229) 928-6059. resignation (see p213). The
former president, recipient of
Off the beaten track in south the Nobel Peace Prize in 2002,
Georgia, the tidy county seat lives here and teaches Sunday
of Americus lies in a region of school at the Maranatha Baptist
diverse attractions. The Habitat Church when he is in town.
for Humanity, a worldwide Interestingly, Jimmy Carter is
organization offering “self-build” one of the biggest supporters
housing for the poor, has its head- of Habitat for Humanity.
quarters downtown. Its Global
Village and Discovery Center E Habitat for Humanity
includes an international 121 Habitat St at W Lamar St. Tel (229)
marketplace and up to 40 924-6935. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.
examples of habitat homes Closed Sat & Sun. & 7
built around the world,
including Papua New Guinea,
Botswana, and Ghana. i Macon Exterior of the Italianate Hay House
Located 10 miles (16 km) * 91,200. @ n 450 Martin Luther Museum, Macon
north of town, Andersonville is King Jr. Blvd, (478) 743-1074.
the National Prisoner of War ∑ maconga.org E Hay House Museum
(POW) Museum. This marks 934 Georgia Ave. Tel (478) 742-8155.
a spot that was a notorious Founded on the south bank of Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat, 1–4pm
prisoner-of-war camp during the Ocmulgee River in 1823, Sun. Closed Mon (all year), Sun
the Civil War, which later Macon was laid out in a grid (Jan, Feb, Jul, Aug), public hols. &
became a veterans’ cemetery. of avenues, which still exist in
Almost 13,000 of the camp’s its downtown. Uphill from here
inmates died from the terrible is one of the city’s highlights, o Athens
living conditions. Housed in the Intown Historic District. * 118,000. @ n 300 N Thames
a structure built to resemble a This area has some of the city’s St, (706) 357-4430.
concentration camp, the most beautiful homes, a few ∑ visitathensga.com
museum’s disturbing exhibits of which are open to the public.
commemorate American POWs The 1855 Hay House Museum, Home to the University of
in conflicts from the Civil War built in the Italian Renaissance Georgia (UGA), Athens is
through Vietnam to the Gulf style, features period character- well known as the state’s
and Iraqi wars. istics such as trompe l’oeil intellectual and literary center.
The local high school in marble, a ballroom, and hidden It has also gained repute as
Plains, 10 miles (16 km) west passages. The 1842 House Inn is the originator of alternative
of Americus, is part of the also located here. Guided music. Local bands such as REM,
Jimmy Carter National Historic architectural tours begin at the the B-52s, and Widespread
Site. It was here that a teacher visitor center. Panic have made it big, and
predicted that her student The city also has a vibrant the 40-Watt Club on West
would become president. musical history and was home Washington Street and the
Carter proved her right, and to such greats as Little annual Athfest in June
the school is now dedicated Richard and Otis continue the tradition.
to the life of the Plains-area Redding. The Big The city is largely
peanut farmer’s son who was House Museum, deserted in summer,
located on Vineville while in fall it
Avenue, houses the overflows with
Allman Brothers Band Georgia Bulldog fans
UGA bulldog
Museum, honoring for the home football
mascot
the early years of the games. The visitor center
ultimate Southern rock band. provides details about house
The Georgia Sports Hall of and garden tours, such as the
Fame celebrates Georgia’s 1856 structure that now houses
famous athletes, such as Hank the Lyndon House Arts Center
Aaron and Ty Cobb. Across and the Founders Memorial
the river from downtown, Garden in North Campus.
the Ocmulgee National
Monument marks a historic P University of Georgia
mound complex built around Four Towers Building, 405 College
Headstones at the Andersonville cemetery 1100 AD as the capital of the Station Rd. Tel (706) 542-0842.
near Americus Creek Confederacy. ∑ uga.edu

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 GEORGIA  261

a Stone Mountain
Park
Robert E Lee Blvd, off US Hwy 78.
n (800) 401-2407. Open 6am–
midnight (hours vary so call ahead).
Closed Dec 24 & 25. & 7 partial.
∑ stonemountainpark.com

The centerpiece of this popular

park, located about a 30-minute
drive east of downtown Atlanta,
is a bas-relief carved into the side
of a massive granite mountain.
The Amicalola Falls flowing through the scenic Amicalola Falls State Park The sculpture depicts three
Confederate heroes – Jefferson
p Dahlonega in Maine. Less ambitious hikers Davis, president of the
n 13 S Park St, (706) 864-3711.
can head to the park’s Len Foote Confederacy, and generals
∑ dahlonega.org Hike Inn, which Robert E. Lee and Stonewall
offers ecologically sensitive, Jackson. Its creator, Gutzon
The legendary Blue Ridge comfortably rustic overnight Borglum, began work here in
Mountain range extends across accommodations. The park also 1924 and later sculpted the
the state’s northeastern corner. features a mountaintop lodge, faces of four American presidents
With abundant waterfalls and restaurant, campground, and at Mount Rushmore (see p443).
flowering forests, the region is the Amicalola Falls. East of A sky-lift takes visitors up
well known for its cultural Dahlonega, along Hwy 441 at to the summit, and the walk
heritage of outstanding folk arts the Georgia–South Carolina down affords a close-up view
such as quilt-making, wood- border, the federally designated of the unusual “monadnock”
working, and bluegrass music. “Wild and Scenic” Chatooga habitat – it harbors many
The discovery of gold in the River is considered one of the species of plants that are more
main town of Dahlonega in most daunting rivers to navi- commonly associated with
1828 precipitated the nation’s gate in eastern US. The book the desert than the humid
first gold rush, two decades and the film Deliverance were Southeast. The huge lawn, lying
before California’s famous based on this area (but locals between the granite wall and
“Forty-Niners.” The state’s Gold don’t appreciate being reminded Stone Mountain Park Inn, is the
Museum, housed in the 1836 of this). Visible from high above location of various events such
courthouse in the center of the river, Tallulah Gorge features as the annual Fourth of July
Dahlonega’s attractive town a suspension bridge. fireworks. Other attractions
square, displays mining include the Geyser Towers,
equipment, nuggets, and } Amicalola Falls State which lead visitors around
mining lore. The town also offers Park & Lodge and through a gushing geyser
gold-panning and gold-mine Hwy 52. Tel (706) 265-4703. on rope bridges and net
tours as well as exhibits a Open 7am–10pm daily. Closed Jan 1, tunnels, an antebellum village,
complete set of coins minted Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 an ice rink, and paddle-wheel
in the US Mint that operated ∑ gastateparks.org riverboat rides around the lake.
here from 1838 to 1861.

E Gold Museum
1 Public Square. Tel (706) 864-2257.
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat,
10am–5pm Sun. Closed Jan 1,
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7
∑ gastateparks.org

Environs
About 18 miles (29 km) from
Dahlonega, the Amicalola Falls
State Park is the gateway to
the southern terminus of the
2,144-mile (3,450-km)
Appalachian Trail, a hiking
route that leads from the top of
Springer Mountain in Georgia
north to Mount Katahdin, deep The centerpiece bas-relief sculpture at Stone Mountain Park
262  THE SOUTHEAST

s Atlanta P Martin Luther King Jr.

National Historic Site
* 456,000. ~ £ @ n 233
450 Auburn Ave. Tel (404) 331­5190.
Peachtree St, NE, (404) 521­6600.
Open 9am–4pm or 5pm. Closed Dec
∑ atlanta.net
25. 7 ∑ nps.gov/malu
Founded as a terminus for Situated in a long reflecting
two railroad routes in 1837, pool beside an eternal flame,
Atlanta’s importance as a the crypt of the Nobel Peace
transportation hub made it a Prize­winner Dr. Martin Luther
Union target during the Civil King Jr. is a pilgrimage site for
War. After a 75­day siege, people from all over the world.
General William T. Sherman The Centennial Olympic Park in The pool lies within the
broke the Confederate defenses downtown Atlanta complex of the Center for
and set most of the town Nonviolent Social Change,
ablaze, a history recounted a 4D presentation, see a produc­ which has a gallery displaying
romantically in Margaret tion line in operation, and sample portraits and family memorabilia.
Mitchell’s Gone With the Wind. from a range of 60 products. Also located nearby is the
Today, the city claims to be the original Ebenezer Baptist
“Capital of the New South” and  Georgia Aquarium Church, over which Martin
has since been considered more 225 Baker St NW. Tel (404) 581­4000. Luther King Jr., his father, and
brash and faster paced than its Open 10am–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am– grandfather presided. The
Southern neighbors. 8pm Sat & Sun. & 7 - Martin Luther King Birthplace
∑ georgiaaquarium.org is down the street to the east,
Exploring Atlanta This is one of the world’s largest while the National Park Service
This cosmopolitan city is home to aquariums housing 500 marine Visitor Center, housing portraits
many industrial giants including species in five habitats. The and exhibits that relate the area’s
Coca­Cola. Its entrepreneurial Ocean Voyageur features role in the Civil Rights Movement,
spirit led to an economic boom manta rays, whale sharks, and is right across the street.
that lasted two decades, thousands of other fish in the This district preserves the
capped by a successful bid to six­million­gallon exhibit. heart of the Sweet Auburn
host the Olympics in 1996. One Other tanks feature a neighborhood, which was
of the city’s landmarks, the brilliant rainbow of the center of African­
Centennial Olympic Park colored tropical fish. American life in the
downtown, commemorates this early 1900s.
event. Another is Turner Field, P CNN Studio
where the former boxer Centennial Olympic Park E Margaret
Muhammad Ali famously lit the Dr NW. Tel (404) 827­ Mitchell House
Olympic torch in the stadium. 2300. Open 9am–5pm Margaret Mitchell and Museum
Downtown’s attractions, Georgia daily. & Closed Easter, 979 Crescent Ave NE
Aquarium, World of Coca-Cola, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. Tel (404) 249­7015. Open 10am–
7 with advance notice. 5:30pm Mon–Sat, noon–5:30pm Sun.
and the Martin Luther King Jr.
∑ cnn.com/tour Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 24 &
National Historic Site, are all
within a mile of these Olympic A 55­minute guided tour of CNN Dec 25. & 7 ∑ atlantahistory
landmarks, and can be covered by Studio takes visitors through center.com/mmh
a Peachtree Trolley tour of the the inner workings of the world’s Margaret Mitchell (1900–1949)
area. A short Metro ride north first 24­hour news station, wrote her magnum opus,
leads to the city’s exceptional located in a 14­story atrium Gone With the Wind, here in a
High Museum in midtown. East global headquarters. Book in basement apartment she
of midtown lie the residential advance for the tour. The lobby affectionately called “the
neighborhoods of Virginia High­ gift shop sells merchandise Dump.” The three­story Tudor
lands and Little Five Points, with ranging from Atlanta Braves Revival house has had a
their superb specialty restau­ paraphernalia to videos of dramatic history. It was
rants and the Ponce City market, Desert Storm coverage. abandoned, threatened by
which has an extensive food hall.

E World of Coca-Cola
121 Baker St. Tel (404) 676­5151.
Open 10am–5pm Sun–Thu,
9am–5pm Fri & Sat.
Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7
- ∑ worldofcoca-cola.com
World of Coca­Cola displays the
world’s largest collection of Coke
memorabilia. Visitors can watch The pool, eternal flame, and crypt at Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. National Historic Site
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 GEORGIA  263

the addition of Renzo Piano’s This museum is housed in

sculpturally styled buildings and a striking modern building
open plaza. Its extensive perm- centered around a skylit four-
anent collection careens from story atrium. It natural history
regional folk art and 19th- century exhibits ranging from plate
American art to 18th- century tectonics to bubble science. Of
Asian ceramics and sub-Saharan local interest is its coverage
artifacts. Among the museum’s of Georgia’s diverse ecosystems,
packed calendar of events are including the Appalachian forest,
blockbuster traveling exhibits, art the coastal plain, and a particular
films, make-art events, and lectures. favorite, the exotic Okefenokee
Swamp habitat (see p259).
P Atlanta History Center The museum’s IMAX® Theater
High Museum of Art, Atlanta 130 W Paces Ferry Rd NW. Tel (404) features frequent “IMAX® and
814-4000. Open 10am–5:30pm Mon– Martinis” nights, and there is also
urban renewal, and then Sat, noon–5:30pm Sun. & 7 an on-site café. A number of
torched several times by arsonists, ∑ atlantahistorycenter.com in-town nature trails weave
once on the eve of the Olympics The center consists of a museum through the forest outside.
opening. Various exhibits tell and two historic houses. Exhibits
the story of the Georgia-born such as Shaping Traditions: E Jimmy Carter Library
writer and reveal the extent Folk Arts in a Changing South & Museum
of the house’s restoration. trace the evolving character of 441 Freedom Pkwy. Tel (404) 865-
Mementos from the famous Southern Folk Art. 7100. Open 9am–4:45pm Mon–Sat,
film, such as Scarlett O’Hara’s Contrasting examples of rural noon–4:45pm Sun. Closed Jan 1,
bonnet, are also on display. and urban life are presented in Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 -
the two houses. The Tullie Smith ∑ jimmycarterlibrary.gov
E High Museum of Art Farm, with its livestock and Located on a hilltop site 2 miles
1280 Peachtree St NE. Tel (404) 733- traditional crafts demonstrations, (3 km) from downtown Atlanta,
4444. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat is a typical mid-1800s farmhouse, the library highlights the
(till 9pm Fri), noon–5pm Sun. while the elegant 1928 Swan humanitarian successes of
Closed public hols. & 7 House has a grand interior stair- President Carter’s administration
∑ high.org case and swan motifs throughout. (see p260). These include the
One of the region’s best museums, Camp David accords, Panama
the High Museum of Art lies in the E Fernbank Natural Canal treaties, and human-rights
city’s premier arts district and is History Museum and energy policies. A popular
housed behind a colorful Alexander 767 Clifton Rd NE. Tel (404) 929-6300. attraction is an exact replica of
Calder sculpture in a strikingly Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon– the Oval Office at the White
modern Richard Meier structure. 5pm Sun. Closed Thanksg., Dec 25. House as used by President
The museum doubled in size with & 7 ∑ fernbankmuseum.org Carter from 1977 to 1981.

Downtown Amtrak Station

2.5 miles (4 km)
Margaret Mitchell House,
High Museum

Atlanta
TREET

Civic Center
Atlanta History
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Georgia
For keys to symbols see back flap State Hartsfield International Airport
9 miles (14 km)
264  THE SOUTHEAST

Tennessee
Tennessee is made up of three distinct regions. Memphis
anchors the western lowlands along the Mississippi River;
Nashville, the state capital, heads the central plateau; and
the east is dominated by the Appalachian Mountains,
with Knoxville as its urban base. With the Cumberland
and Tennessee Rivers feeding into the Ohio, then into the
Mississippi, the state was well positioned to prosper from
the steamboat trade, and later, the railroads. During the
Civil War, Chattanooga was the scene of battles, even as
Memphis and Nashville were occupied by Union forces.
Today, Tennessee is known for its tremendous contribution
to American roots music, from bluegrass, country, gospel,
and blues, to rockabilly, rock ‘n’ roll, and soul. A beautifully preserved log cabin,
Cades Cove

d Great Smoky Appalachian Trail, which surrounding landscape. At the

Mountains National straddles the state border western end of the Great Smoky
through the park. Trails to the Mountains National Park, Cades
Park park’s many scenic waterfalls are Cove still preserves the historic
n US Hwy 441, Gatlinburg, (865) also popular. The hike to Mount farm buildings that were erected
436-1200. Open daily. 7 LeConte offers panoramic views, back in the 1820s. These include
∑ nps.gov/grsm and there is even a hike-in lodge structures such as log cabins,
that provides rustic overnight barns, and a gristmill that’s still
The “Smokies,” which earn their accommodations, for which in use. Bicycling, horseback
name from the smoke-like haze reservations are required. The riding, fishing, and white-water
that clings to the ridge, hold 6,643-ft- (2,025-m-) tall Cling­ rafting are some of the popular
some of the highest peaks in man’s Dome, Tennessee’s activities available to adven-
eastern US and support a highest peak, has an obser vation turous tourists in this beautiful
diversity of plant life. With more tower that offers fine views of the park and its surrounding region.
than 10 million visitors each
year, this is one of the country’s
most visited parks. Established
as a national park in 1934, half
of it is in Tennessee and the
other half in North Carolina.
The Tennessee entrance is
through Gatlinburg and Hwy
441, which bisects this sprawling
park along the Newfound Gap
Road and meets up with the
Blue Ridge Parkway (see p251)
on the North Carolina side. Of
the 800 miles (1,287 km) of
trails, the most popular is the
The spectacular Clingman’s Dome and the surrounding forest cover

Flora of the Great Smoky Mountains

Famed for its incredible biodiversity, the Great Smoky Mountains
shelter more than 1,500 species of flowering plants, including
some 143 species of trees. The mountains’ hardwood forests are
Sugar Maple Magnolia made up of sugar maples, yellow birches, and poplars, while the
other trees dominating the forests are coniferous red spruce and
Frasier fir. The understory consists of dense rhododendron and
mountain laurel. The forest, which features significantly in Appalachian
culture, produces honeysuckle vines for basketry and various
hardwoods for whittling and musical instruments, in addition to
offering wild berries and fruits, medicinal plants (including ginseng),
Mountain Laurel and harboring wild game.
Rhododendron

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 TENNESSEE  265

f Chattanooga
* 174,000. ~ @ n 215 Broad St,
(800) 322­3344.
∑ chattanoogafun.com

Located on the banks of the

Tennessee River along the
Georgia border, Chattanooga
is surrounded by several high
landmasses – the plateaus of
Lookout Mountain, Signal
Mountain, and Missionary
Ridge. Founded as a ferry
landing by the Cherokee Chief
John Ross in 1815, Chattanooga Former Chickamauga battlefield, with cannons, statuary, and memorials
was later occupied by white
settlers after the Cherokees visitors can trace the journey of Union soldiers who fought on
were forced out from here a single drop of water from its the precipitous slopes of this
along the tragic “Trail of Tears” origins in the Smoky Mountains steep plateau in the Battle
to Oklahoma in 1838 (see p56). through rivers, reservoirs, and Above the Clouds in 1863. This
The railroad leading to Atlanta deltas, then out into the Gulf of battle took place after Union
provided a natural target for Mexico. Over 9,000 species of fish, forces were able to reverse an
the Union Army during the Civil amphibians, reptiles, mammals, earlier Confederate victory and
War, and several battles were and birds illustrate the state’s planted the US flag on the top
fought on this dramatic terrain. varied habitats and ecosystems. of Lookout Mountain. At Ruby
Downtown Chattanooga is A short drive south of Falls, 3 miles (5 km) away,
today a revitalized center sur­ downtown on East visitors descend by
rounding the original site of the Brow Road, the home­ elevator to the floor of
ferry landing known as Ross’s spun Battles for a cave, then walk past
Landing. Within this compact Chattanooga stalactites and stalag­
area are many of the city’s most Electric Map was mites to the 145­ft
popular attractions such as the originally known as (44­m) waterfall. A
Chattanooga Regional History “Confederama.” It tells light show transforms
Museum, which covers the the story of local Civil the lovely natural
area’s local history – Native War battles with 5,000 Lookout Mountain surroundings of the
American, Civil War, and cultural; miniature soldiers and Incline Railway falls into a somewhat
the Tennessee Aquarium; the a series of tiny lights gaudy display.
attractive Riverwalk promenade; on large boards which are used On the Georgia side of
and the pedestrian­only Walnut to represent the advancing Lookout Mountain, Rock City
Street Bridge that spans the river Confederate and Union troops. Gardens has natural limestone
to Coolidge Park and Carousel. At the foot of Lookout Mountain rock formations beautified
At the Tennessee Aquarium, is the start point for the mile­ by the Enchanted Trail, with
long Lookout Mountain little gnomes peering out from
Incline Railway. The train the crevices.
climbs a gradient of
 Tennessee Aquarium
72.7 percent up the
1 Broad St. Tel (800) 262­0695. Open
side of Lookout Mountain
10am–6pm daily. Closed Thanksgiving,
for panoramic views. Dec 25. & 7 ∑ tnaqua.org
It was built in the 1890s
to bring tourists up to Lookout Mountain Incline Railway
the hotels that were 827 E Brow Rd. Tel (423) 821­4224.
once located on top. Open 10am–6pm daily. Closed
The Chickamauga and Thanksgiving, Dec 25. &
∑ ridetheincline.com
Chattanooga National
Military Park of Point P Chickamauga and
Park is a three­block walk Chattanooga National
away. The other section Military Park
of the military park is the 110 Point Park Rd. Tel (423) 821­7786.
Chickamauga battlefield Open 8:30am–5pm daily.
across the border in Closed Dec 25. 7 ∑ nps.gov/chch
northwest Georgia. } Ruby Falls
The site at Point Park 1720 Hwy 148. Tel (423) 821­2544.
commemorates all the Open 8am–8pm daily. Closed Dec 25.
The Tennessee Aquarium, Chattanooga brave Confederate and & ∑ rubyfalls.com
266  THE SOUTHEAST

g Nashville (2.4 km) west of downtown to

* 668,000. ~ @ n Broadway at Music Row, the heart of
Fifth St, (615) 259-4747. Nashville’s recording industry,
∑ visitmusiccity.com might also interest ardent fans.

Best known today as the capital E Country Music Hall of

of country music, Nashville is a Fame & Museum
friendly and fun place to visit. 222 Fifth Ave S. Tel (615) 416-2001.
Its musical history dates to Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1,
1927, when a radio broadcaster, Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. & 7
changing from music from the ∑ countrymusichalloffame.org
Grand Opera to the more “Spreading the gospel of
popular Barn Dance show, country music,” the Country
introduced the upcoming Music Hall of Fame honors Façade of the Ryman Auditorium, a
selection as the “Grand Ole scores of such outstanding Nashville landmark
Opry.” A musical legend was musicians as Patsy Cline, Merle
thus born and has flourished Haggard, and Hank Williams in a E Musicians Hall of Fame
ever since. The city, however, huge rotunda at a grand down- at Nashville Municipal
has more to it than just music. town location. In keeping Auditorium
It was founded as Fort with its exhibits, the 401 Gay St. Tel (615) 244-3263. Open
Nashborough on the banks building itself has been 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. Closed Jan 1,
of the Cumberland River specially designed to Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. & 7
in 1779 and was named resemble the black ∑ musicianshalloffame.com
the state capital of and white keys of a Learn all about the musicians
Tennessee in 1843. It is giant piano. Inside who created the greatest
also the financial center there is a beloved recordings of all time at the
of the region and collection of vintage Musicians Hall of Fame. Visitors
home to Vanderbilt guitars, costumes, can see guitars, drums, and
University, one of Legendary Hank string ties, cowboy other instruments played by
the country’s most Williams boots, well-known luminaries such as Jimi Hendrix,
prestigious institutions. lyrics composed on as well as those played by such
bar napkins, and the celebrated lesser-known session musicians
Exploring Nashville golden Elvis Cadillac. A country as bassist David Hood from
Nashville’s vibrant downtown music primer explains the aca- Muscle Shoals.
area is anchored by the Country demic distinctions between the
Music Hall of Fame. Most of subgenres of bluegrass, Cajun, E Tennessee State Museum
the city’s major attractions are honky-tonk, and rockabilly. 505 Deaderick St. Tel (615) 741-2692.
within comfortable walking Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
distance, such as the imposing P Ryman Auditorium 1–5pm Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter,
State Capitol at the top of the 116 Fifth Ave N. Tel (615) 889-3060. Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 7
hill, the historic Ryman Audit- Open 9am–4pm. Closed Jan 1, ∑ tnmuseum.org
orium on Fifth Avenue, and the Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 Although the main focus of
scenic riverfront. Plenty of restau- ∑ ryman.com this museum is the Civil War,
rants, cafés, and nightclubs lie This landmark auditorium is still it also covers other aspects of
in the surrounding area, locally an evocative setting for live the state’s past. Starting with a
known as “the District.” Devoted performances. The Grand Ole dugout canoe, exhibits show-
country music fans might want Opry was broadcast from here case local Native American
to venture 10 miles (16 km) for 31 years, from 1943 to 1974, history, early pioneer life,
east to see the Grand Ole Opry when it moved to the new slavery, the Civil Rights Move-
House. A similar trip 1.5 miles Opry House. Daytime tours of ment, the river trade, and the
the Mother Church of Country Natchez Trace route. There is
Music are available, but the best also a large collection of
way to see the 2,362-seat theater 19th-century decorative arts,
is by taking in a show; performers such as European and American
from B.B. King and Bonnie Raitt antique furnishings.
to Ben Harper and Tori Kelly
are typical of the diverse E Grand Ole Opry House
all-star lineup. Within a few 2804 Opryland Dr. Tel (615) 871-6779
blocks of Ryman Auditorium, or 1(800) SEE-OPRY. Open some
Bridgestone Arena and a evenings, call in advance for tickets
number of nightclubs also and show information. & 7
feature all kinds of music – ∑ opry.com
country, bluegrass, rock, blues, Located 10 miles (16 km) east
Nashville’s scenic riverfront and many others. of downtown Nashville in a
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 TENNESSEE  267

P Andrew Jackson’s
Hermitage
4580 Rachel’s Lane. Tel (615) 889-2941.
Open mid-Mar–mid-Oct: 8:30am–
5pm; mid-Oct–mid-Mar: 9am–4pm.
Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. &
∑ thehermitage.com
The home of Tennessee’s fore-
most political and military hero,
Andrew Jackson, this estate is a
20-minute drive east of down-
Exterior of the Grand Ole Opry House in Nashville town. After distinguishing himself
as a military leader in the War of
gulch of Opry-themed P Belle Meade Plantation 1812, Jackson became the state’s
development called Music 525 Harding Pike. Tel (615) 356-0501. single Congressional represent-
Valley, the 4,400-seat modern Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1, ative. He was elected the
Opry House offers the “world’s Easter, Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. seventh president of the United
longest running radio show” & 7 partial. States in 1828 and re-elected
beyond its 90th year. A Who’s ∑ bellemeadeplantation.com in 1832. Most of the contents
Who of country music grace A 20-minute drive southwest of the house remain intact.
the stage of this legendary of downtown, Belle Meade Jackson is buried in the garden.
institution (live broadcast on is among the state’s best-
650 AM/WSM). Visitors can take preserved antebellum estates. P Natchez Trace Parkway
a backstage tour during the The charming Greek Revival Originally a series of Native
day, to see where the stars mansion, built in the 1840s, American trails, the Natchez
hang out before and during was once the centerpiece of Trace Parkway that links Nashville
the show, hear stories about a 3,500-acre- (1416-ha-)plant- with Natchez in Mississippi, is
the Opry and country music ation and has been restored today a 1,444-mile- (2,324-km-)
greats, and see photographs to its former splendor. Guides national historic parkway (see
from the Opry’s biggest in period costume offer p362). Its northern terminus lies
moments in history. The tours of the mansion and 15 miles (24 km) southwest of
complex contains the fabulous many other historic out- town. Here, the contour of the
Gaylord Opryland Resort & buildings spread across the Trace is more rolling and deeply
Convention Center with its ground, including an 1832 forested than farther down
spectacular indoor gardens. slave cabin. in Mississippi.

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For keys to symbols see back flap

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Natchez
268  THE SOUTHEAST

Luther King Jr. was tragically

assassinated on April 4, 1968.
Room 306 is preserved as it
was on the day of his killing
and a memorial wreath rests
outside the window. Across
the street, the assassination
scene is re-created in the
bathroom from which James Earl
Ray apparently fired his
fatal shot.

E Memphis Rock-N-Soul
A neon B.B. King’s Blues Club sign on Beale Street Museum
Fedex Forum, 191 Beale St. Tel (901)
h Memphis rivaling New Orleans’ Bourbon 205-2533. Open 10am–7pm daily.
Street (see p348) in popularity. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. &
* 657,000. ~ £ @ n 3205 Elvis 7 ∑ memphisrocknsoul.org
Presley Blvd, (901) 543-5333. Restaurants, nightclubs, saloons,
∑ memphistravel.com and shops line a four-block The intersection between history
stretch. Many statues also and race, and its expression
Memphis sits on the banks of the punctuate the strip on either in song, is explained with
Mississippi River at Tennessee’s side. There is one of Elvis Presley outstanding musical accom-
southwestern corner, where it opposite the Orpheum Theatre, paniment at this museum. It is
meets the states of Arkansas and one of W.C. Handy stands located opposite the Gibson
and Mississippi. The city is at the entrance to a plaza where Guitar factory, which offers a
most closely associated with many outdoor festivals take fascinating tour. The exhibit
two very different American place. A block away, W.C. is sponsored by the Smithsonian
icons – Civil Rights leader Dr. Handy’s Home, a tiny white Institute and examines the
Martin Luther King Jr., and the shotgun shack, is now a blues and country roots of
singer Elvis Presley. museum to the man who has rock ’n’ roll with a fascinating
Since the early 20th century, often been called the “Father of movie, and displays of old
Memphis has been synonymous the Blues.” At the center of the instruments as well as vintage
with music. As the birthplace strip stands the A. Schwab’s Dry jukeboxes, stage costumes,
of rock ‘n’ roll, which originated Goods Store at 163 Beale. This and profiles of artists. A digital
from blues (see p361), the shop has been open here audio tour features more than
city celebrates this since 1876. Many five hours of fabulous music.
legacy in its many nights Beale Street is Music fans may also want to
nightclubs and closed to traffic, and travel 10 minutes south to the
saloons, and out on the people come to listen to Stax Museum of American
streets. Even its festivals live music emanating Soul Music, in the old Stax
mostly revolve around from every door. Records recording studio.
music. Highlights include A short walk from Beale
Elvis’s birthday on January Street, AutoZone Park is P Mud Island
8; “Memphis in May,” a the red and green sta- 125 N Front St. Tel (901) 576-7241.
month-long series of dium of the Memphis Open early Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm
concerts and cookouts B.B. King, Rock-N-Soul Redbirds baseball Tue–Sun. & 7
(Memphis is also Museum ∑ mudisland.com
franchise. It
famous for its barbe- lies across from the Reached via monorail, Mud
cue); the W.C. Handy Awards, the landmark Peabody Hotel at 149 Island holds the Mississippi
blues answer to the Grammys, Union Avenue, where the River Museum, which tells the
also in May; Elvis Week or famous ducks march twice a day story of the river with artifacts
“Tribute Week” around August to and from the lobby to the such as an 1870 steamboat
16; and the Music and Heritage fountain where they can be seen replica. The museum also has
Festival on Labor Day weekend. frolicking all day (see p278). many Native American exhibits
and galleries on the origins of
= Beale Street E National Civil Rights the blues as an influential
A thriving commercial center Museum musical form. The most
for the city’s African-American 450 Mulberry St. Tel (901) 521-9699. engaging exhibit, however, is
community, Beale Street’s Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm located outside where water
heyday was in the first half of Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter, courses through a replica of
the 20th century. After a period Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. & 7 the Mississippi for a five-block-
of decline, this historic street ∑ civilrightsmuseum.org long stretch, ending at a
was resurrected as the heart of The museum was once the swimming pool shaped like
a vibrant entertainment district, Lorraine Motel, where Dr. Martin the Gulf of Mexico.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 TENNESSEE  269

at the grand visitor complex,

guests are taken by van through
the metal gates up the drive to
the house to view the front
rooms, famous Jungle Room
den, gallery, racquetball court,
and Memorial Gardens, where
Elvis is buried. The tour is self-
guided. Across the street,
additional admission charges
Elvis Presley’s grave in his lavish Graceland estate are needed to see Elvis’s car
collection, his two airplanes,
P Center for Southern launched the careers of Elvis, and an exhibit focusing on his
Folklore B.B. King, Johnny Cash, Jerry love for the state of Hawai’i.
119 S Main St. Tel (901) 525-3655. Lee Lewis, Roy Orbison, and Unofficial souvenir shops along
Open 11am–6pm Mon–Sat, 2–6pm others. Founded in 1954 by Elvis Presley Boulevard offer
Sun (to 11pm on show days). Closed Sam Philips, the studio’s exhibits some bizarre but entertaining
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 8 hourly. & include Elvis’s original drum set items, such as Elvis-emblazoned
shows. 7 ∑ southernfolklore.com and microphone. Souvenir nail clippers and beach towels.
A touchstone for all that is items with the familiar yellow
authentically Southern, the rooster logo are on sale, and R Full Gospel Tabernacle
center offers a great café, folk visitors can also make their own Church
art gallery, gift shop, and a stage keepsake recordings. 787 Hale Rd. Tel (901) 396-9192.
for shows ranging from jug 5 11am Sun. & donation.
bands to puppetry, with plenty P Graceland The Reverend Al Green left a
of blues, soul, folk, rock, and 3734 Elvis Presley Blvd. Tel (901) 332- successful recording career in the
gospel in between. It also 3322. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1970s (his hits included songs
sponsors the acclaimed Music 10am–4pm Sun (but times can vary). such as “Let’s Stay Together”
and Heritage Festival. Closed Tue (Dec–Feb), Jan 1, and “Take Me to the River”)
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 to pursue his calling. He often
∑ graceland.com
P Sun Studio presides over Sunday services
706 Union Ave. Tel (901) 521-0664. A 10-minute drive from at his church in Southside
Open 10am–6pm daily. downtown, Graceland attracts Memphis, not far from
Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 more than 700,000 visitors each Graceland. Visitors to the electric
∑ sunstudio.com year to the estate that Elvis gospel service should show
Famous musicians from all over Presley bought as a 22-year-old respect by wearing decent
the world come to record in superstar and called his home attire, donating a little, and
the legendary studio that until his death in 1977. Starting staying for the entire service.

Downtown Memphis Mississippi River

W AT ER ST

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For keys to symbols see back flap Amtrak Station 9 miles (15 km)
450 yards (400 m)
National Civil
Rights Museum
270  THE SOUTHEAST

Kentucky k Mammoth Cave

National Park
With its Appalachian Mountain landscapes and rolling
rural pasturelands, where horses run on acres and acres of I-65 exit 53. n (270) 758-2180. Open
Mar–Oct: 8am–6pm daily, Nov–Feb:
bluegrass, Kentucky is easily one of the most picturesque 8:30am–4:30pm. Closed Dec 25. 8
states in the country. The lands west of the mountains were
once inhabited by Native American tribes who strenuously Halfway between Louisville
opposed the encroachment of white settlers. Today, Kentucky (see p273) and Nashville (see
is widely known for its horses, and many thoroughbred stud p266), this park offers guided
farms are centered around Lexington. One of the most tours of one of the largest cave
prestigious horse races, the Kentucky Derby, takes place in systems known, formed by
underground rivers that left a
Louisville. This state is also famous for its downhome style
dramatic landscape of stalac-
of country music, and Hwy 23 along its eastern border has tites and stalagmites. Guests are
been designated the Country Music Highway. free to choose from tours with
names such as “Frozen Niagara”
or “Wild Cave Tour” (helmets
provided). Evidence suggests
that the cave had been
inhabited as far back as 4,000
years ago. The Green River runs
its course above Mammoth
Cave, an area that is crisscrossed
by several hiking trails.

l Berea
* 14,200. n (800) 598-5263.
_ Berea Crafts Festival (Jul).
∑ berea.com
A cannon at Fort McCook, Cumberland Gap National Historic Park
Home to Berea College,
j Cumberland Gap trails. The hardwood and soft- dedicated to educating disad-
National Historic wood forests shelter wild vantaged Appalachian youth,
turkeys, white-tailed deer, and Berea is known as a highlands
Park many varieties of songbirds. crafts center. Typical crafts
US Hwy 25 E, Middlesboro. n (606) The Gap was also a strategic include woodworking, pottery,
248-2817. Open 8am–5pm daily. location in the Civil War. It was and textiles. The town hosts the
Closed Dec 25. 7 ∑ nps.gov/cuga held alternately by Confederate Kentucky Guild of Artists Fair,
and Union forces, and the the Craftmen’s Fair, as well as
Situated in the southeastern fortifications can still be seen the Berea Crafts Festival. Year-
corner where Kentucky meets throughout the park. Today, a round, there are public tours of
the states of Virginia and four-lane Interstate Highway artisans’ studios, such as Weaver’s
Tennessee, the Cumberland and a railroad tunnel run Bottom, founded in 1989.
Gap is a natural pass through through the Gap. A drive up
the Cumberland Mountains, to Pinnacle Overlook leads P Weaver’s Bottom
once used by migrating deer to a short trail for a view of 140 N Broadway. Tel (859) 986-8661.
and bison. It was first explored three states, most dramatic Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat.
by Dr. Thomas Walker in 1750 during fall. Closed public hols. &
on behalf of a land company.
Some five years later, the
legendary fur trapper and
explorer Daniel Boone ran his
Wilderness Road through the
Gap, thus opening the way for
some 200,000 pioneers to
establish homesteads in the
interior wilderness.
This rugged area is thickly
forested, and many sights, such as
the Sand Cave sandstone over-
hang and White Rocks outcrop,
are accessible only by hiking The path leading into the interior of Mammoth Cave
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 KENTUCKY  271

Dense forest foliage as seen from the Zilpo Road National Scenic Byway, Daniel Boone National Forest

z Daniel Boone National Scenic Byway offers herbs and spices were first put
National Forest a good chance to see the together is on display, along
forest’s rich variety of wildlife with KFC artifacts.
1700 Bypass Rd, Winchester. n (859) on a short drive. The central At the southern end,
745-3100. Open 8am–4:30pm daily. area east of Stanton features Cumberland Falls State Resort
7 ∑ fs.usda.gov/dbnf
the Natural Bridge State Resort Park offers lodging, camping,
Park, a naturally occuring arch- and swimming.
Named after the legendary way surrounded by rugged
pioneer and fur trapper Daniel terrain, and the picturesque } Cumberland Falls State
Boone, who lived in Kentucky, Red River Gorge, both of Resort Park
this National Forest protects which offer great hiking, 7351 Hwy 90, Corbin. Tel (606) 528-
some of the most dramatic canoeing, and white-water 4121. Open daily. 7 ∑ parks.ky.gov
scenery in the state. The dense rafting opportunities.
forest provides shelter to
over 35 endangered species, Environs
including red-cockaded wood- Visitors to the southern portion
peckers, big-eared bats, and of the park might want to
bald eagles. The Sheltowee detour to Corbin, off I-75,
Trace National Recreation Trail 50 miles (80 km) north of the
runs the entire 260-mile (418-km) state’s southern border with
length of the forest, from Tennessee. Corbin is notable as
Morehead near the Ohio border the original home of Kentucky
in the north to Pickett State Fried Chicken, where Colonel
Rustic Park in Tenessee. Also Harland Sanders first served
near Morehead, Cave Run the special recipe that went on
Lake is a popular venue for to become a global franchise. Chairlifts carrying visitors up to the
boating, and the Zilpo Road The kitchen where the famous Natural Bridge

Country & Bluegrass Music

As the Mississippi Delta is to blues music, so the stretch of eastern Kentucky
(along with West Virginia) is home to the greatest proportion of country music
artists in America. British, Irish, and Scottish immigrants brought Elizabethan
ballads, rhythms, and instruments to the area, which they then forged into a
distinctly American style known as “country.” It was characterized by fast fiddling,
occasional yodeling, and laments on the hardscrabble life of the American
Southeast. Hwy 23, which runs from Ashland to Pikeville along the state’s
eastern border, has been dubbed the “Country Music Highway” to commemorate
Country singer Billy Ray the vast number of artists who grew up here. Along its length, the route passes
Cyrus in concert by the hometowns of Billy Ray Cyrus, the Judds, Loretta Lynn, Patty Loveless,
and Dwight Yoakum.
Kentucky’s vast bluegrass pasturelands defined a particular style of country music known as “bluegrass.”
This evolved from the musical style played in the late 1940s by Bill Monroe and his Bluegrass Boys. The
name “bluegrass” stuck, and this acoustic folk style remains popular in the region today. Traditional
bluegrass acoustic stringed instruments include the fiddle, guitar, mandolin, five-string banjo, and
bass and dobro guitars. Song lyrics are usually about the everyday lives of the people from whom the
music originated.
272  THE SOUTHEAST

Thoroughbred racehorses grazing in pastures near Lexington

x Lexington horse in the development of Harrodsburg in 1805 and

* 311,000. ~ @ n 401 W Main
human history. The adjacent established a farming
St, (859) 233-7299. ∑ visitlex.com American Saddlebred Museum community renowned for its
is named for, and focuses on, handicrafts. It grew to a size-
Kentucky’s second largest city, America’s first registered horse able population of around 500
Lexington is also the unofficial breed. Outside, the Man o’ War in 1830 and then, in part due
capital of the state’s horse Memorial marks the grave of to the Shaker belief in celibacy,
country. The surrounding the beloved thoroughbred who it grew less cohesive and
bluegrass-covered countryside won several acclaimed races. became scattered by 1910. The
is lined with hundreds of In town, the 1803 Mary Todd area’s premier attraction is the
throroughbred stud farms, where Lincoln House preserves the Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill,
many Kentucky Derby winners girlhood home of Abraham America’s largest and most
are bred, reared, and trained. Lincoln’s wife. completely restored Shaker
Most farms are open to visitors, community and living- history
who are welcome either on their P Kentucky Horse Park museum. The architecture and
own with advance reser vations 4089 Iron Works Pkwy. Tel (859) furnishings at the village reflect
or as part of an organized tour. 233-4303. Open mid-Mar–Oct: the spare, utilitarian style that
The visitor center supplies lists 9am–5pm daily; Nov–mid-Mar: typifies Shaker values. Artisans
of farms and tour operators. 9am–5pm Wed–Sun. Closed Jan 1, demonstrate crafts such as
About 6 miles (9.6 km) north Thanksg., Dec 24, 25 & 31. & 7 woodworking and weaving.
∑ kyhorsepark.com
of town lies the Kentucky
Horse Park, a state-operated P Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill
working farm that serves as an 3501 Lexington Rd. Tel (859) 734-
equestrian theme park. Here, c Harrodsburg 5411. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
visitors can watch live shows, (to 4:30pm Nov–Mar). Closed Dec 24
* 8,300. ~ @ n 488 Price Ave,
ride ponies, sign up for escorted & 25. & 7 partial.
(859) 734-2364. ∑ shakervillageky.org
trail rides, take carriage tours, ∑ harrodsburgky.com
and go swimming and camping.
The park’s International A large number of Shaker
Museum of the Horse is a families from New England v Hodgenville
monument to the role of the relocated in and around * 3,200. n 60 Lincoln Square, (270)
358-3411.

Hodgenville is the base for the

Abraham Lincoln Birthplace
National Historic Site, located
3 miles (5 km) to its south.
The site commemorates the
16th US president’s Kentucky
roots by preserving his child-
hood home. Here, 56 steps
representing the years of
Lincoln’s life lead up to a
granite-and-marble Memorial
Building built around a 19th-
century log cabin, where the
Barrel making in the Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill, Harrodsburg president was born. The site
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–8 and pp279–81
 KENTUCKY  273

also encompasses a large site. However, Bardtown’s most

portion of the original Lincoln popular attraction is My Old
family farmland. Kentucky Home State Park.
Here, guides lead visitors
P Abraham Lincoln Birthplace through the historic mansion
National Historic Site that, according to legend,
2995 Lincoln Farm Rd. Tel (270) 358- inspired composer Stephen
3137. Open 8am–4:45pm or 6:45pm Foster to write “My Old Kentucky
(seasonal). Closed Jan 1, Thanksg., Home,” the state’s beloved
Dec 25. 7 ∑ nps.gov/abli anthem. The park also hosts
outdoor musicals.

P My Old Kentucky Home

State Park
107 E Stephen Foster Ave. Tel (502)
348-3502. Open 9am–5pm daily. Gigantic baseball bat outside the Louisville
Closed Jan–mid-Mar: Mon & Tue, Slugger Museum
Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 24, 25 & 31.
& 7 ∑ parks.gov.ky and offers “backside track tours”
through the Churchill Downs
The Hodgenville log cabin in which track. A couple of blocks from
Abraham Lincoln was born n Louisville the historic district on the
* 253,000. ~ @ n 301 S
waterfront, the Louisville
b Bardstown Fourth St, (502) 379-6109. Slugger Museum produces
* 12,800. n 1 Court Square, (502) ∑ gotolouisville.com the worldclass baseball bat in a
348-4877. ∑ visitbardstown.com factory marked by a landmark
Founded at the falls of the 120-ft- (36-m-) tall bat.
The “Bourbon Capital of the Ohio River in 1788, Louisville The Speed Art Museum has
World,” Bardstown is surrounded (pronounced “Looavul”) is home a large collection of Renaissance
by the state’s largest whiskey to one of the world’s most paintings and sculpture. At the
distilleries, which have earned famous horse races, the Riverfront Plaza on the banks
Kentucky its legendary Kentucky Derby. What Mardi Gras of the Ohio River at Main and
reputation as the whiskey- is to New Orleans, or the Masters Fourth Streets, the oldest oper-
making center of the US. (Unlike Tournament is to Augusta, ating river steamboat in the US
whiskey, which is made from the Derby is to Louisville – it is tours the area. The surrounding
cereal grain, bourbon is made the event around which all local historic district’s old warehouses
from corn, malt, and rye, and is calendars revolve. Since it first have been recast as cafés,
aged in charred white oak began in 1875, three-year-old galleries, restaurants, and
barrels.) The area’s most popular horses have run the track at several bourbon distilleries.
distillery, James Beam, known in Churchill Downs on the first Located 2 miles (3.2 km) north-
countless country songs as “Jim Saturday in May. Kentucky’s east of downtown, Cave Hill
Beam,” lies 14 miles (22.5 km) high society turns out in spring Cemetery is one of the largest
west of Bardstown, while a finery for this social event, and most beautiful in the US.
20-mile (32-km) drive south where decorated hats for ladies Many Louisvillians go visit the
leads to the famed Maker’s Mark and seersucker suits for gentle- grounds just to feed the ducks,
distillery, Kentucky’s oldest men are the norm. Mint julep, or take in the landscaped lawns.
distillery operating in the same a Southern concoction of
bourbon, sugar, and E Kentucky Derby Museum
fresh mint over ice is 704 Central Ave. Tel (502) 637-1111.
the unofficial beverage Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat (from 8am
of choice. “My Old Mar 15–Nov 30), 11am–5pm Sun.
Kentucky Home” plays Closed first Fri & Sat in May,
while the horses are led Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25.
& 7 ∑ derbymuseum.org
onto the track for an
event that lasts less than E Louisville Slugger Museum
two minutes. Winners 800 W Main St. Tel (877) 775-8443.
take home the coveted Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat,
trophy, decorated with 11am–5pm Sun (extended hours
lucky silver horseshoes in in summer). & 7
a “U” shape “so that the ∑ sluggermuseum.com
luck doesn’t spill out.” E Speed Art Museum
The adjacent Kentucky 2035 S Third St. Tel (502) 634-2700.
Stephen Foster statue, My Old Kentucky Home State Derby Museum show- Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm
Park, Bardstown cases horse-racing history Sun. & ∑ speedmuseum.org
274  THE SOUTHEAST

Practical Information the Southeast. Nevertheless,

driving is the best way to get
Successful traveling around the Southeast requires a great around the region, as public
deal of advance planning, as there is so much to see and do transportation can be limited.
in the vast area. With miles of sandy beaches, picturesque Seat belts are required for
drivers and front-seat passengers
historic cities such as Charleston, the stunning rugged wilder­ in all of the five states. Most
ness of the Blue Ridge and Appalachian Mountains, and rolling states also require seat belts
hills and valleys of the foothills, the Southeast truly has it all. for back-seat passengers, and
In addition to myriad natural wonders, the region also offers child seats are required for all
burgeoning commercial centers such as Atlanta, and engaging automobile occupants aged
cultural towns including Memphis, the birthplace of the blues, 4 and under. Speed limits vary,
but are usually 70 to 75 mph
and Nashville, the commercial and cultural capital of “country­ (112 to 120 km/h) on Interstate
western” music, arts, and entertainment. Highways outside of densely
populated urban areas,
weather permitting.
Tourist Information the most troubling times for
Each of the five Southeast visitors. Hurricane season
states, North Carolina, South stretches from August to the Etiquette
Carolina, Kentucky, Tennessee, end of the year, but since storms Compared to the rest of the
and Georgia, publishes travel form in the Atlantic Ocean country, Southerners are largely
information that can be near the Equator, emergency teetotalers. Many of them are
ordered by phone or via alert systems usually give at Baptists, a religion that frowns
websites. State “Welcome least a day or two warning on the consumption of alcohol.
Centers” located along most before strong winds and heavy “Dry” counties can still be found
major highways greet visitors rains arrive. in some rural areas, particularly
as soon as they enter each of Watch out for tornadoes in the mountains where alcohol
the Southeast states. Open and thunderstorms in late cannot be legally served or sold
between 8am and 5pm daily, spring and summer, especially to the public. But exceptions
these centers offer free road in the south, where they strike to this tradition are legendary.
maps and a full range of tourist suddenly and create flash Makers of “moonshine”, a 100-
information, covering climate, floods. If a tornado watch or proof home-made whiskey
transportation, attractions, warning is issued, take cover typically distilled from corn,
and accommo-dations. More straight away. gained an outlaw reputation
information is available from in the days of Prohibition as
a multitude of tourism bureaus they evaded federal agents
across the five states. Getting Around by hiding stills deep in the
Like much of the US, the South- woods and working them by
east is a region where it can be cover of darkness – hence the
Natural Hazards hard to get around without a name “moonshine”.
The end of summer in the South- car. Greyhound buses do serve Drinking mint juleps on the
east can be very pleasant, but some larger towns and cities, day of the Kentucky Derby in
this is also the main hurricane and visitors can also take Louisville is such a revered
season, and potentially one of Amtrak trains to travel around local custom that girls start
collecting the traditional
sterling silver “julep cups” as
The Climate of the Southeast young as 12 years of age.
The region’s states have a mild
climate with temperatures rarely
ATLANTA Festivals
dipping below freezing in winter,
though summer in the low-lying 88/31 The southeast states stage
areas can be very hot. Spring sees °F/C 74/23 a diverse range of annual
70/22
azaleas and other blossom in the 69/20 community, regional, and
region’s famous gardens. national festivals. In February,
52/11 54/12
Summer, with its sunny days and 32°F 50/10
cultural sites all over the South-
warm water along sandy beaches, 0°C 36/2
east, especially the Martin
is the most popular time for
travel. The end of summer is the 20 20 20 15 Luther King Jr. Center for
primary hurricane season. In
days days days days Non-Violent Social Change
inland areas, leaves change color 4.2 5 3 4.7 in Atlanta, celebrate Black
on mountain hardwood trees in in in in in History Month with various
October. In winter, snow can fall month Apr Jul Oct Jan special programs. In March,
across many areas. Savannah, Georgia, hosts a lively
St. Patrick’s Day celebration,
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  275

when thousands come together Tennessee Fall Homecoming, September through January,
to drink beer, dance, sing, and an Appalachian-themed crafts and basketball from winter
celebrate real or imagined and culture festival that takes through mid-spring.
Irishness. March and April are place annually at the Museum In other sports, the Kentucky
also ideal months for enjoying of Appalachia. At the end of the Derby in early May draws
house-and-garden tours and year, an old-fashioned Christmas hundreds of thousands of
the blossoms of the Southeast’s is re-created at the living-history horse-racing fans from all over
many fruit trees, celebrated in village of Old Salem, outside the world. Golf enthusiasts
events like the Cherry Blossom Winston-Salem in North Carolina. flock to Augusta, Georgia to
Festival of Macon, Georgia, watch the Masters tournament
where visitors can see more in April. NASCAR stock car races
than 200,000 trees that line Sports & Outdoor are the region’s most popular
the city streets. Activities attractions, drawing more
Throughout May, one of the The cities of the Southeast than 200,000 people to races
country’s largest music and arts host a wide array of professional at Atlanta, Bristol, Concord,
festivals takes place in historic and amateur sports teams, and Rockingham, and Darlington.
Charleston, South Carolina, as there are many minor league Numerous state parks provide
part of the Spoleto Festival USA. teams in smaller cities. Especially opportunities for camping,
Summer brings a deluge of in basketball and football, boating, fishing, and hiking.
outdoor events. Bands, fireworks, hundreds of high-quality and The coastal states of the
and street festivals are the norm passionately supported sports Southeast are known to offer
for community celebrations of teams are fielded by public and numerous opportunities for
the July 4 Independence Day private colleges and universities. beach activities.
holiday. One of the largest Atlanta has major league teams
fireworks displays in the US is in all four main American
staged at Stone Mountain, spectator sports (baseball, foot- Entertainment
outside Atlanta. Numerous ball, hockey, and basketball), The birthplace of the blues, rock
county and state fairs crop up but professional NFL football is ’n’ roll, and country-and-western
around this time, as do music also played in Charlotte, North music, the Southeast is a great
festivals such as Old Time Carolina, and Nashville, Tennessee. place to enjoy live music.
Fiddlers’ Jamboree in At the minor league level, Hundreds of events take place
Smithville, Tennessee. The end Memphis has an enormous all over the region almost every
of summer brings Elvis Week downtown stadium for their night. Besides the various
in Memphis, Tennessee, Class AAA baseball team, the nightclubs hosting talented
celebrating the life and times of Redbirds; Nashville, Charlotte, musicians, the major entertain-
Elvis Presley with a week-long and Louisville also have high- ment venues of the region
festival around the anniversary quality Class AAA baseball teams. include the legendary Grand
of his death on August 16. Baseball season runs from April Old Opry in Nashville and B.B.
A highlight of autumn is the to September, football from King’s Blues Club in Memphis.

DIRECTORY
Tourist Travel North Carolina NASCAR
Information 1615 Mail Service ∑ nascar.com
Amtrak Center, Raleigh.
Georgia Tel (800) 872-7245. Tel (919) 733-4181.
Atlanta Falcons
Tel (800) 847-4842. ∑ amtrak.com
Tel (404) 223-8000.
∑ ncsparks.com
∑ exploregeorgia.org ∑ atlantafalcons.com
Greyhound South Carolina
Kentucky Carolina Panthers
Tel (800) 231-2222. 1205 Pendleton St,
Tel (800) 225-8747. Tel (704) 358-7000.
Columbia.
∑ panthers.com
∑ kentucky Parks & Outdoor Tel (803) 734-0156.
tourism.com Information ∑ southcarolina Tennessee Titans
parks.com Tel (615) 565-4000.
North Carolina Georgia ∑ titansonline.com
Tel (800) 847-4862. Tennessee
205 SE Butler St,
∑ visitnc.com 401 Church St, Entertainment
Atlanta.
Nashville.
South Carolina Tel (800) 864-7275. Tel (615) 532-0001, B.B. King’s Blues Club
Tel (800) 872-3505. ∑ gastateparks.org (800) 421-6683. 143 Beale St,
∑ discoversouth ∑ tnstateparks.com Memphis, Tennessee.
Kentucky
carolina.com Tel (901) 524-5464.
2200 Capital Plaza Kentucky
Tennessee Tower, Frankfort. Derby Grand Old Opry
Tel (800) 462-8366. Tel (800) 255-7275. Tel (800) 928-3378. Nashville, Tennessee.
∑ tnvacation.com ∑ parks.ky.gov ∑ kdf.org Tel (615) 889-3060.
276  THE SOUTHEAST

Where to Stay
DURHAM: Homewood Price Guide
North Carolina Suites by Hilton $$ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Value
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
ASHEVILLE: Cedar Crest 3600 Mt Moriah Rd, 27707
Victorian Inn $$ Tel (919) 401-0610 $ up to $150
B&B ∑ homewoodsuites3.hilton.com $$ $150 to $300
$$$ over $300
674 Biltmore Ave, 28803 At this small but tastefully
Tel (828) 252-1389 decorated hotel, suites feature
∑ cedarcrestinn.com homey furnishings and kitchen-
Set in a romantic Queen Anne- ettes. Complimentary breakfasts. South Carolina
style mansion, this hotel features
spacious rooms and period fur- KILL DEVIL HILLS: Sea Ranch CHARLESTON: Kings
nishings. Breakfasts are included. Resort $ Courtyard Inn $$
Value B&B
1731 N Virginia Dare Trail, 27948 198 King St, 29401
DK Choice Tel (800) 334-4737 Tel (800) 845-6119
ASHEVILLE: Inn on ∑ searanchresort.com ∑ kingscourtyardinn.com
Biltmore Estate $$$ Suites at this coastal-themed, This inviting B&B dating back to
Luxury oceanfront resort have fully 1853 is surrounded by numerous
1 Lodge St, 28803 equipped kitchens, and many shopping and dining options.
Tel (866) 336-1245 suites include private balconies. The attractive rooms are filled
∑ biltmore.com There is a beachfront restaurant. with antique reproductions.
This elegant hotel on the
grounds of the famed Biltmore NAGS HEAD: Surf Side Hotel $$
Estate offers luxurious lodgings B&B DK Choice
and gracious hospitality. The 6701 Virginia Dare Trail, 27959 CHARLESTON: The
rooms boast exquisite furnish- Tel (800) 552-7873 Restoration on King $$
ings and lovely views of the ∑ surfsideobx.com Boutique
woodlands. Leisure activities This oceanfront hotel offers great 75 Wentworth St, 29401
such as hiking, cycling, and sea views and a range of rooms Tel (843) 518-5100
cooking classes are available. in varying sizes; all are cozy and ∑ restorationonking.com
Enjoy mountain views, relaxing well-appointed. Relaxing This beautifully restored property
on the veranda, or afternoon ambience and friendly service. combines the service of a high-
tea in the library. The fine-dining end hotel with the amenities
restaurant serves food and RALEIGH: Holiday Inn of a fully furnished apartment.
wine sourced from the estate. Raleigh – North $ Spacious suites feature exposed
Value brick and other original elements.
2805 Highwoods Blvd, 27604 Contemporary furnishings and
CHAPEL HILL: Carolina Inn $$ Tel (919) 205-0620 modern facilities are comfort-
Historic ∑ ihg.com/holidayinn able as well as luxurious. Some
211 Pittsboro St, 27516 Guest rooms are spacious, suites have patios. Southern
Tel (800) 962-8519 comfortable, and well-equipped hospitality includes wine and
∑ carolinainn.com at this modern hotel, conveniently cheese on the rooftop terrace,
Rooms at this hotel feature antique located near the main highway. and a coffee bar.
furnishings and modern amenities. There is an outdoor seasonal
Found next to the University of swimming pool as well.
North Carolina, there is a fine- CHARLESTON: John Rutledge
dining restaurant on site. House Inn $$$
B&B
CHARLOTTE: Charlotte 116 Broad St, 29401
Marriott City Center $$ Tel (800) 476-9741
Boutique ∑ johnrutledgehouseinn.com
100 W Trade St, 28202 This historic property, close to the
Tel (704) 333-9000 Battery and other key attractions,
∑ marriott.com was built in 1763 as the main
This Marriott, located close to residence for John Rutledge,
shops, restaurants, and museums, one of the signatories of the US
offers richly appointed rooms Constitution. It offers handsome
and excellent service. rooms with Southern charm.

CHARLOTTE: Ritz-Carlton $$$ COLUMBIA: Hampton Inn

Luxury Columbia $$
201 E Trade St, 28202 Value
Tel (704) 547-2244 822 Gervais St, 29201
∑ ritzcarlton.com/charlotte Tel (803) 231-2000
Offering a quiet retreat, this eco- ∑ hamptoninncolumbia.com
friendly hotel has well-appointed Located in the historic downtown,
rooms, a luxurious spa, and a this inn offers comfortable rooms
rooftop garden with beehives. The historic Carolina Inn, full of Southern with modern amenities and
Excellent service. charm, in Chapel Hill, North Carolina complimentary breakfasts.
 W H E R E TO S TAY  277

HILTON HEAD: Omni Hilton

Head $$$
Boutique
23 Ocean Ln, 29928
Tel (843) 842-8000
∑ omnihotels.com
This oceanfront resort with
tropical landscaping offers all-
suite options with mini-kitchens.
On-site amenities include golf,
tennis, a spa, and pools for kids
and adults.

MYRTLE BEACH:
The Breakers Resort $$
Value
2006 N Ocean Blvd, 29578 Elegantly decorated room at Stonehurst Place, Atlanta, Georgia
Tel (855) 861-9550
∑ breakers.com SAVANNAH: The Gastonian $$
A family-friendly favorite on the DK Choice Historic
beach, The Breakers boasts a ATLANTA: The St. Regis $$$ 220 E Gaston St, 31401
variety of comfortable rooms, Luxury Tel (912) 232-2869
kids’ play areas, and multiple 88 W Paces Ferry Rd, 30305 ∑ gastonian.com
pools. Great views. Tel (404) 563-7900 Luxurious rooms have antiques
∑ stregisatlanta.com and working fireplaces in this
A renowned choice in the elegant house with gardens.
exquisite Buckhead neigh-
Georgia borhood, this boutique resort SAVANNAH: Kehoe House $$
is one of the best in the city. B&B
ATLANTA: Omni Hotel at Rooms are spacious, with 123 Habersham St, 31401
CNN Center $$ luxurious amenities, custom Tel (912) 232-1020
Value furnishings, original artwork, ∑ kehoehouse.com
100 CNN Center, 30303 and impeccable service. Some This restored 1892 mansion
Tel (404) 659-0000 suites offer the unique St. Regis overlooks Columbia Square.
∑ omnihotels.com Butler Service. The on-site pool Rooms have antique furnishings.
Large guest rooms with marble and spa are outstanding. There is an evening wine and
baths and city views are on offer hors d’oeuvres reception.
at this hotel close to Centennial
Olympic Park and other attractions. AUGUSTA: Hilton Garden Inn $ ST. SIMONS: Ocean Lodge $$$
Value Luxury
ATLANTA: Stonehurst Place $$ 1065 Stevens Creek Rd, 30907 935 Beachview Dr, 31522
B&B Tel (706) 739-9990 Tel (912) 291-4300
923 Piedmont Ave NE, 30309 ∑ hiltongardeninn3.hilton.com ∑ oceanlodgessi.com
Tel (404) 881-0722 Head here for comfortable The Ocean Lodge boasts
∑ stonehurstplace.com accommodations near local stunning old-world architecture
An elegant award-winning hotel, attractions. Modern guest rooms and villa-style rooms with deluxe
Stonehurst boasts individually have workstations plus access to a amenities. Rooftop restaurant.
designed rooms with original restaurant and convenience store.
artwork, luxury amenities, and TYBEE ISLAND: Surf Song
superior service. Great location. JEKYLL ISLAND: Bed & Breakfast $$
The Beachview Club $$ Historic
ATLANTA: Westin Buckhead $$ Value 21 Officers Row, 31328
Value 721 N Beachview Dr, 31527 Tel (912) 472-1040
3391 Peachtree Rd NE, 30326 Tel (912) 635-2256 ∑ tybeesurfsong.com
Tel (404) 365-0065 ∑ beachviewclub.com Beach-style furnishings and a
∑ westinbuckheadatlanta.com In a prime location and set in wraparound porch add fun and
The spacious rooms and marble lovely grounds with old oak trees, character to this renovated
bathrooms are ultra-comfortable the elegant rooms here have Victorian home near the ocean.
at this sleek, modern hotel with kitchenettes; some benefit from
minimalist decor and contemp- ocean views.
orary art on the walls.
SAVANNAH: East Bay Inn $$ Tennessee
ATLANTA: Four Seasons Boutique
Hotel $$$ 225 E Bay St, 31401 CHATTANOOGA: Chattanooga
Boutique Tel (912) 238-1225 Choo Choo Hotel $$
75 14th St NE, 30309 ∑ eastbayinn.com Historic
Tel (404) 881-9898 These beautiful accommodations 1400 Market St, 37402
∑ fourseasons.com near bustling River Street offer Tel (423) 266-5000
This stunning midtown spot is classic style with modern comforts ∑ choochoo.com
known for its exemplary service. and friendly service. The evening Popular with train enthusiasts,
Rooms are large and comfortable, reception includes complimentary guests at this family-friendly hotel
and the impressive lobby features beverages and appetizers. There’s sleep in standard rooms or in a
a red marble staircase. also a free Continental breakfast. Victorian train car.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 26–7
278  THE SOUTHEAST

GATLINBURG: Zoder’s Inn &

Suites $
B&B
402 Pkwy, 37738
Tel (865) 436-5681
∑ zoders.com
This tranquil property located
in a secluded area beside a
beautiful mountain stream offers
comfortable rooms in a variety of
sizes. Complimentary Continental
breakfasts are served, and there’s
cheese and wine in the evening.

MEMPHIS: Elvis Presley’s

Heartbreak Hotel $
Value
3677 Elvis Presley Blvd, 38116
Tel (901) 332-1000 Swimming pool at Hotel Preston, Nashville, Tennessee
∑ graceland.com
Located across the street from NASHVILLE: The Hermitage LOUISVILLE: The Brown Hotel $$
Elvis Presley’s home in Graceland, Hotel $$$ Historic
this kitschy hotel is decked out in Luxury 335 W Broadway, 40202
1950s style. Rooms are spacious 231 6th Ave N, 37219 Tel (502) 583-1234
and have kitchenettes. Elvis videos Tel (888) 888-9414 ∑ brownhotel.com
play on the in-house TV channel. ∑ thehermitagehotel.com One of the city’s most treasured
A charming historic property, landmarks, this 1923 hotel
The Hermitage is known for its features Georgian Revival-style
DK Choice Southern hospitality. Accommo- architecture, a grand lobby, and
MEMPHIS: Peabody dations are luxurious, warm, and comfortable, elegant rooms.
Hotel $$$ inviting, with views of downtown.
Historic LOUISVILLE: Galt House Hotel $$
149 Union Ave, 38103 Boutique
Tel (901) 529-4000 140 N Fourth St, 40202
∑ peabodymemphis.com Kentucky Tel (502) 589-5200
This famous downtown hotel is ∑ galthouse.com
a tourist destination in its own LEXINGTON: Gratz Park Inn $$ The city’s only waterfront hotel,
right. The popular, twice-daily B&B Galt House has several on-site
“march of the ducks” draws 120 W 2nd St, 40507 restaurants and a lovely rooftop
spectators to the lobby as Tel (859) 231-1777 garden. It offers an array of room
the house mallards walk down ∑ gratzparkinn.com types with luxurious amenities.
the red carpet to the fountain. Rooms offer modern comforts
Known as the South’s Grand and luxury bedding at this
Hotel, it features large rooms intimate historic inn with antique DK Choice
with fine furnishings and reproduction mahogany LOUISVILLE: Seelbach
luxurious amenities, and boasts furnishings, hardwood floors, Hilton $$
a prime location near Beale and regional artworks. Historic
Street and other attractions. 500 S 4th St, 40202
LEXINGTON: Hilton Lexington Tel (502) 585-3200
Downtown $$ ∑ seelbachhilton.com
NASHVILLE: Hotel Preston $$ Business This elegant hotel, built in 1905,
Boutique 369 W Vine St, 40507 has hosted many famous figures
733 Briley Pkwy 37217 Tel (859) 231-9000 and was notably referenced in
Tel (615) 361-5900 ∑ hilton.com/lexington The Great Gatsby by F. Scott
∑ hotelpreston.com This centrally located chain Fitzgerald. It boasts an old-
This creative hotel features property offers modern rooms and world charm, countered by
eclectic art, eye-catching quality amenities. It is close to the luxurious rooms with
decor, and offbeat touches. local attractions and attached modern comforts and amenities.
The distinctive rooms are ultra- by skywalk to shopping and The opulent decor features
comfortable, and the service is dining destinations. marble, fine woodwork, and
friendly and personalized. art from around the world.
LOUISVILLE: Econo Lodge
NASHVILLE: Union Downtown $
Station Hotel $$ Value LOUISVILLE: 21c Museum
Boutique 401 S 2nd St, 40202 Hotel $$$
1001 Broadway, 37203 Tel (502) 583-2841 Boutique
Tel (615) 726-1001 ∑ econolodge.com 700 W Main St, 40202
∑ unionstationhotelnashville.com Convenient for both business Tel (502) 217-6300
In a former train station, this hotel and leisure travelers, the well- ∑ 21cmuseumhotels.com
has a dramatic barrel-vaulted appointed rooms here have This unique hotel is also a
lobby and offers elegant, refrigerators and microwaves. contemporary art museum. The
uniquely designed rooms with There’s a free Continental break- cozy rooms are distinctive and
contemporary decor. fast and an exercise room. stylish. Superb hospitality.
For key to prices see page 276
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  279

Where to Eat and Drink

CHARLOTTE: Upstream $$ Price Guide
North Carolina Seafood Prices are based on a three-course
6902 Phillips Pl, 28210 meal per person, with a glass of house
ASHEVILLE: Laughing Tel (704) 556-7730 wine, including tax and service.
Seed Café $ The day’s freshest catch is turned $ up to $45
Vegetarian into innovative, Asian-tinged $$ $45 to $80
40 Wall St, 28801 dishes and gourmet sushi here. $$$ over $80
Tel (828) 252-3445 There is an award-winning wine
Serving seasonal, farm-to-table list and a popular Sunday brunch.
dishes with an international flair, as South Carolina
well as local beers and fresh fruit DURHAM: Dame’s Chicken &
elixirs, this café sources organic Waffles $ CHARLESTON: Hominy Grill $
ingredients from local farms. It has Southern American Southern American
a covered patio and a colorful bar. 317 W Main St, 27701 207 Rutledge Ave, 29403
Tel (919) 682-9235 Tel (843) 937-0930
ASHEVILLE: Tupelo Honey $$ This eclectic restaurant serves its Housed in a charming old
Southern American namesake Southern classic dish building, Hominy Grill is popular
12 College St, 28801 with a modern spin. Fluffy waffles with locals for its traditional
Tel (828) 255-4863 are topped with sweet butter and cuisine prepared with fresh local
Upscale yet casual, this restaurant crispy, perfectly fried chicken with ingredients. House favorites
with homey decor offers a creative a choice of sauces and syrups. include fried chicken, shrimp
menu that features Southern favor- bog, and buttermilk pie.
ites, with healthier versions of NAGS HEAD: Sam & Omie’s $
classic comfort foods prepared American
with local and organic ingredients. 7228 S Virginia Dare Trail, 27959 DK Choice
Tel (252) 441-7366 Closed Dec– CHARLESTON: Husk $$$
BEAUFORT: Clawson’s 1905 mid-Mar Southern American
Restaurant & Pub $$ This casual favorite started in 1937 76 Queen St, 29401
American as a breakfast spot for fishermen. Tel (843) 577-2500
425 Front St, 28516 Standard fare includes seafood Food-lovers head to Husk, set
Tel (252) 728-2133 Closed Sun and burgers. Friendly bar. in a 19th-century building, in
This popular restaurant and pub the historic downtown to try
on the historic waterfront is RALEIGH: The Pit $ Chef Sean Brock’s acclaimed
housed in an early-1900s grocery Barbeque modern interpretations of
store. It offers large combination 328 W Davie St, 27601 traditional Southern food.
platters of seafood and meats, Tel (919) 890-4500 The ingredient-driven menu
with local microbrews. Authentic pit-cooked barbecue changes daily while focusing
dishes are served in a restored on artisanal products, in-house
CHAPEL HILL: Mama Dip’s $ 1930s warehouse. The award- pickling and charcuterie. The
Southern American winning cuisine uses free-range servers are knowledgeable.
408 W Rosemary St, 27514 meats and local produce. Superb
Tel (919) 942-5837 wine and spirit lists.
This spacious venue has been CHARLESTON: Magnolia’s $$$
serving down-home cooking RALEIGH: The Raleigh Times $$ Southern American
since 1976. There are extensive American 185 E Bay St, 29401
breakfast, lunch, and dinner 14 E Hargett St, 27601 Tel (843) 577-7771
menus, with everything available Tel (919) 833-0999 Housed in an old building,
to go. Traditional favorites include The city’s past is on display in this Magnolia offers excellent service
catfish gumbo, Brunswick stew, beautifully restored 1906 building. and attention to detail. The menu
and fruit cobbler. The menu includes creative bar features classic regional dishes
fare, inventive drinks, and an such as fried green tomatoes and
extensive beer selection. carpetbagger filet.
DK Choice
CHARLOTTE: Mert’s Heart
& Soul $
Soul Food
214 N College St, 28202
Tel (704) 342-4222
Numerous locals and tourists
label this Uptown favorite as
“the heart and soul of Charlotte.”
Mert’s is known for its regional
Southern, Lowcountry, and
Gullah-inspired home-made
dishes. House favorites include
mac ‘n’ cheese, buttery cornbread,
Charleston red rice, and
shrimp and grits. Friendly and
personable staff.
Husk, in a late 19th-century historic building in downtown Charleston, South Carolina
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 28–9
280  THE SOUTHEAST

ATLANTA: Bone’s $$$

Steak House
3130 Piedmont Rd NE, 30305
Tel (404) 237-2663
This big­ticket steak house is a
favorite with the business crowd
and those looking to celebrate
a special occasion. Prime, aged,
and corn­fed beef, fresh seafood,
and Maine lobster are the
mainstays. Impressive wine list.

ATLANTA: Holman & Finch

Public House $$$
American
2277 Peachtree Rd NE, 30309
Tel (404) 948-1175
Entrance to The Wilkes House inn, housing Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room, Savannah, Georgia Food­lovers are wowed by the
ever­changing menu, full of
COLUMBIA: Al’s Upstairs obscure ingredients and nose­to­
Italian Restaurant $$ Georgia tail fare, at this modern restaurant.
Italian What some consider the city’s
300 Meeting St, W Columbia, 29169 ATHENS: Cali N Tito’s $ best burger is sold in limited
Tel (803) 794-7404 Closed Sun Latin American quantities nightly and also features
Enjoy stunning city views from this 1427 S Lumpkin St, 30608 in the Sunday brunch menu.
spot set inside a 1900s building. Tel (706) 227-9979
Entrées feature fresh Atlantic sea­ Authentic Latin American flavors JEKYLL ISLAND:
food, hand­cut steaks, Italian and tasty fish tacos are the main Grand Dining Room $$$
specialties, and pasta dishes. draw here. The colorful dining American/Seafood
area and outdoor patio are lively. 371 Riverview Dr, 31527
COLUMBIA: Blue Marlin Payment by cash only. Tel (912) 635-5155
Seafood This elegant restaurant is decked
1200 Lincoln St, 29201 ATHENS: Last Resort Grill $$ out in Victorian style with high­
Tel (803) 799-3838 Southern American backed chairs, and fireplaces.
Set in a converted train station, 174–184 W Clayton St, 30601 The Continental menu features
Blue Marlin serves Lowcountry Tel (706) 549-0810 the JP Morgan crab melt,
cuisine, with an emphasis on sea­ Housed in a historic building, with bouillabaisse, pan­roasted duck
food and hand­cut steaks. The seating in booths or in the court­ breast, rosemary lamb loin, and
house favorites include oysters yard, this eatery attracts crowds award­winning shrimp and grits.
Bienville and Firecracker flounder. for its modern, rich Southern and
Southwestern­influenced cuisine.
HILTON HEAD: A Lowcountry DK Choice
Backyard $$ ATLANTA: The Varsity $ SAVANNAH: Mrs. Wilkes’
Southern American Diner Dining Room $
32 Palmetto Bay Rd, 29928 61 North Ave, 30308 Southern American
Tel (843) 785-9273 Tel (404) 881-1706 107 W Jones St, 31401
This popular eatery is known for This is the world’s largest drive­in Tel (912) 232-5997 Closed Sat &
its creative take on Lowcountry fast­food restaurant, dating back Sun; Jan
cuisine made using local ingred­ to 1928. Both locals and visitors Guests gather each weekday
ients. Lively outdoor patio. line up for burgers, chili dogs, morning to partake in a true
and other fast­food favorites. Southern­style experience of
MYRTLE BEACH: Mr. Fish $ sitting at communal tables and
Seafood ATLANTA: Colonnade eating platters of traditional
6401 N Kings Hwy, 29572 Restaurant $$ favorites. Sample from the huge
Tel (843) 839-3474 American servings of fried chicken, sweet
This landmark restaurant and 1879 Cheshire Bridge Rd NE, 30324 potato soufflé, black­eyed peas,
seafood market serves the freshest Tel (404) 874-5642 mac ‘n’ cheese, BBQ pork, and
fish in town. The classic fried Defining local culinary traditions okra gumbo. The lunch­only
dishes, hearty gumbo, and sushi since 1927, this superb restaurant offerings change daily.
are impressive. Gluten­free pizzas serves dishes such as fried chicken,
and healthy fare are also available. sirloin steak, and country vege­
tables. Friendly staff. SAVANNAH: Alligator Soul $$
MYRTLE BEACH: The Library Cajun/Creole
Restaurant $$$ ATLANTA: La Grotta 114 Barnard St, 31401
French/European Ristorante Italiano $$ Tel (912) 232-7899
1212 N Kings Hwy, 29577 Italian A welcoming downtown
Tel (843) 448-4527 Closed Sun; 2637 Peachtree Rd NE, 30305 restaurant, Alligator Soul is
Nov–Mar: Mon Tel (404) 231-1368 Closed Sun famed for its commitment to
Established in 1974, this is the top This sophisticated restaurant organic, local, and regional
choice for special­occasion dining. serves fine Northern Italian fare, ingredients, with an emphasis
Tuxedoed staff serve classic including seafood, beef, veal and on humanely treated animals.
Continental dishes such as Steak chicken entrées, pastas, and deca­ Organic cocktails and home­
Diane and flambéed desserts. dent desserts. Lengthy wine list. made desserts are popular.
For key to prices see page 279
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  281

SAVANNAH: The Olde Pink atmosphere. Complement your LEXINGTON: Stella’s

House $$ food with beers from the local Kentucky Deli $
American microbrewery, Smoky Mountain. Deli
23 Abercorn St, 31401 143 Jefferson St, 40508
Tel (912) 232-4286 Tel (859) 255-3354
This renowned restaurant DK Choice This welcoming deli showcases
housed inside an 18th-century MEMPHIS: Corky’s BBQ $ local growers and producers and
mansion serves New-Southern Barbecue supports local food economies.
fare in an upscale setting. Live 5259 Poplar Ave, 38119 Sandwiches, salads, soups, and
entertainment nightly. Tel (901) 685-9744 desserts are all made in-house.
A traditional barbecue joint,
ST. SIMONS: Crabdaddy’s $$ Corky’s serves hand-pulled pork LEXINGTON: Distilled at
Seafood shoulder, plus dry-rub and tangy- Gratz Park $$$
1217 Ocean Blvd, 31522 sauced ribs, all slow-cooked over American/Southern
Tel (912) 634-1120 hickory and charcoal. The walls 120 W Second St, 40507
An extensive menu of tasty carry pictures of famous Tel (859) 252-4949
locally caught fish, served grilled, customers, and there’s a lively, Guests enjoy some of the city’s
blackened, fried or steamed, is family-friendly atmosphere. finest food in this elegant dining
served at this popular restaurant. room. Regional dishes are
prepared with a modern twist,
TYBEE ISLAND: Crab Shack $ MEMPHIS: Gus’ World Famous such as mushroom-dusted beef
Seafood Fried Chicken $ tenderloin. Excellent service.
40 Estill Hammock Rd, 31328 Southern American
Tel (912) 786-9857 310 S Front St, 38103 LOUISVILLE: Hammerheads $
The menu at this family-friendly Tel (901) 527-4877 American
eatery includes regional favorites This no-frills restaurant is one of 921 Swan St, 40204
such as Lowcountry Boil and the world’s best go-to places for Tel (502) 365-1112 Closed Sun
steamed oysters. Sit in the casual authentic Southern fried chicken Head here to sample an array of
dining room or outdoors. with all the down-home fixings. American pub food. A fine list of
local craft beers and lively music
NASHVILLE: Arnold’s Country contribute to the youthful vibe.
Kitchen $
Tennessee Southern American LOUISVILLE: Havana Rumba $$
605 8th Ave S, 37203 Cuban
CHATTANOOGA: 212 Market Tel (615) 256-4455 Closed Sat & Sun 4115 Oechsli Ave, 40207
Restaurant $$ Visit this lunch-only spot for meat- Tel (502) 897-1959
American and-three dishes comprising a The Cuban owner of this place
212 Market St, 37402 main entrée such as barbecue has carved out a niche in the
Tel (423) 265-1212 pork or roast beef, and tasty sides. local dining scene by providing
The ever-changing menu of an authentic experience through
creative takes on contemporary NASHVILLE: Capitol Grille $$$ flavorful family recipes and
American cuisine at this restau- Southern American friendly service.
rant features local ingredients. 231 6th Ave N, 37219
The dining room has balcony Tel (615) 345-7116
seating and rustic decor. In an elegant setting dating back DK Choice
to 1910, black Angus beef, seafood, LOUISVILLE: Lilly’s Bistro $$
GATLINBURG: Cherokee Grill $$ and the best local produce are American
Steakhouse turned into inspired regional fare. 1147 Bardstown Rd, 40204
1002 Parkway, 37738 Tel (502) 451-0447 Closed Sun &
Tel (865) 436-4287 NASHVILLE: The Catbird Mon
Great steaks and chicken mains Seat $$$ Innovative food and an inviting
are the major draws here, served American atmosphere make this charming
in a rustic mountain retreat 1711 Division St, 37203 bistro popular with locals and
Tel (615) 810-8200 Closed Sun–Tue visitors alike. The kitchen utilizes
Patrons at this buzzing venue garden-fresh produce to create
can watch the cooking of the an ever-changing menu of
prix-fixe menu from their seats, original dishes such as beef
around the U-shaped kitchen. filet with herb gnocchi and
kale, pimento cheese wontons,
and calamari nachos. Take
advantage of the extensive
Kentucky bourbon menu.

BEREA: Boone Tavern

Restaurant $$ LOUISVILLE: Jack Fry’s $$$
Southern American American
100 Main St, 40404 1007 Bardstown Rd, 40204
Tel (859) 985-3700 Tel (502) 452-9244
The menu at the homey Boone This speakeasy, established in 1933,
Tavern Restaurant includes signa- has a colorful history. Today, it is
ture dishes such as rabbit pot pie popular for its live jazz, expertly
Modern interior of The Catbird Seat with an and its famous spoonbread, all made cocktails, and a varied
open-plan kitchen, Nashville, Tennessee made from locally grown produce. menu of delicious regional fare.
1930s hotels lining Ocean Drive, Miami Beach, Florida
 florida

Introducing Florida 284–289

Miami 290–299
The Gold & Treasure Coasts 300–301
Orlando & The Space Coast 302–313
The Northeast 314–315
The Panhandle 316–317
The Gulf Coast 318–319
The Everglades & The Keys 320–323
 INTRODUCING FLORIDA  285

FLORIDA
For the majority of Florida’s 105 million annual visitors, the typical travel poster
images of Florida – sun, sea, sand, and Mickey Mouse – are reason enough to
jump on the next plane. The Sunshine State deserves its reputation as the
perfect family vacation spot, but Florida is much richer in its culture, landscape,
and character than its stereotypical image suggests.

Both climatically and culturally, Florida is a animal life, and where alligators and snakes
state divided – a bridge between temperate are living reminders of the inhospitable
North America and tropical Latin America place that Florida was not much more
and the Caribbean. In the north, roads are than 100 years ago.
lined with stately live oak trees and people
speak with a southern drawl, while, in the History
south, shade from the subtropical sun is cast Behind Florida’s modern veneer lies a long
by palm trees, and the inhabitants of Miami and rich past, molded by different nationalities
are as likely to speak Spanish as English. and cultures. Until the 16th century, Florida
For most visitors, Florida’s prime attractions supported a large indigenous population,
lie along the coasts, or in Central Florida’s whose complex political and religious
theme parks; the abundant beaches are systems demonstrated a high degree of social
varied enough to satisfy any visitor, and organization. However, colonization, warfare,
theme parks will entertain all ages. However, and disease reduced the Native American
great rewards await those who want to population by nearly 80 percent. In 1513,
explore farther. The lush forests and rolling the Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León
hills of the north and central areas provide discovered Florida and named it after Pascua
some of the loveliest countryside in the Florida, the Feast of the Flowers (Easter).
state. Equally exciting are the so-called “wild For almost 200 years several Spanish
areas,” such as the Everglades, which harbor conquistadors attempted unsuccessfully
an extraordinary diversity of plant and to search for gold and colonize the region.

Deerfield Beach, a quiet coastal resort within easy reach of Boca Raton
Aerial vista of Miami’s South Beach, Florida
286  FLORIDA

Their primary concern was Florida’s strategic Florida and came to be known as the
position. The Gulf Stream carried Spanish Seminoles. Conflicts and attempts
galleons laden with gold and treasure to subdue them lasted for more
from the New World colonies past Florida’s than six decades. When the Third
coast on their journey back across the Seminole War ended in 1858, the
Atlantic, and it was thus vital that “ tribes retreated to the Everglades,
La Florida” not fall into enemy hands. where they still live. Soon after came
Initially it was the French who the Civil War, by the end of which, in
troubled the Spanish, but the real 1865, Florida was in ruins. But the
threat to their control came in 1742 Henry Flagler, state recovered rapidly. Railroad
when English colonists from Georgia 1830–1913 barons, such as Henry Flagler and
defeated them and finally acquired Henry Plant, built a network of
Florida about 20 years later. Though railroads and opulent hotels, which
Florida was returned to Spain in 1783, attracted wealthy visitors from the north.
numerous boundary disputes followed. Tourism flourished in the early 20th century,
It was only after Andrew Jackson, the and by 1950 it had become Florida’s top
ambitious US general, captured Pensacola industry. The launch of the NASA space
that the official US occupation took place program at Cape Canaveral in the 1950s
in 1821. Just before Florida became part also helped boost the state’s prosperity.
of the United States, Jackson declared
war on the Creek nation, and forcibly Society & Culture
took millions of acres from the Native The state “where everyone is from
Americans. Many of them fled south to somewhere else,” Florida has always been
a cultural hodgepodge. The earliest
KEY DATES IN HISTORY inhabitants were indigenous people, who
1513 Ponce de León discovers “La Florida” were members of many tribes. Spanish,
1565 Pedro Menéndez de Avilés founds St. Augustine French, and British rule brought a diversity
after defeating the French to the state that continues to this day.
1763 Britain acquires Florida Americans have poured into this land
1783 Britain returns Florida to the Spanish of opportunity since World War II; the
1785–1821 Spanish-American border disputes twentieth most populous state in
1821 Florida becomes part of the US; Andrew Jackson the US in 1950, Florida is now ranked third.
becomes the first American governor
The largest single group to move south
1845 Florida becomes the 27th state has been the retirees, for whom Florida’s
1852 Harriet Beecher Stowe publishes the anti-slavery climate, lifestyle of leisure, and low tax
epic, Uncle Tom’s Cabin
rates hold great appeal after a life of hard
1886 Henry Flagler starts construction of the Florida
East Coast Railway work. While super-rich communities like
1958 Explorer I is launched after NASA chooses Cape
Palm Beach fit the conservative and staid
Canaveral as the site of its space program image that some people still have of
1959 Over 300,000 Cubans flee to Florida
1971 Walt Disney World® opens
1992 Hurricane Andrew devastates south Florida
2000 George W. Bush appointed president after the
Florida election debacle
2003 Space Shuttle Columbia explodes on reentry and
Spirit, a rover, heads for Mars
2011 Atlantis’ last launch ends manned shuttle program
2015 SpaceX launches first commercial rockets from
Cape Canaveral
Apollo/Saturn V Center at the Kennedy Space Visitor Center,
Cape Canaveral
 INTRODUCING FLORIDA  287

such as car racing, and the Daytona

International Speedway attracts thousands
of visitors every year. Spring baseball
training also draws teams and lots of fans
south, while the fashion trade brings
models by the dozen and plenty of
glamour to Miami.
It is tourism, however, that fills the state’s
coffers. The Walt Disney World® Resort
Mural inside the US Federal Courthouse, Miami may appear to dominate the industry,
but Florida makes the most of all its assets.
Florida, the reality is very different. An Its superb beaches and the promise
increasing number of the new arrivals are of winter sunshine have lured millions of
young people for whom Florida is a land vacationers through the years. Beside
of opportunity, and a place to enjoy the beaches and theme parks, there are
good life. Today, the younger generation natural habitats, state-of-the-art
has helped turn Miami’s South museums, and towns, such as
Beach into one of the country’s St. Augustine and Pensacola,
trendiest resorts. that still retain their Spanish
From 1959 on, there has Colonial ambience.
also been massive Conservation is a major
immigration from Latin issue in Florida today. After
America; Miami-Dade Beach buggie, Daytona Beach decades of intense urban
County in particular has a development, Floridians
huge Hispanic community, with a distinct have finally learned the importance of
Cuban flair. Central Florida has become preserving their rich and varied natural
home to many Hispanic people, from heritage. Great swathes of the natural
Puerto Rico, Mexico, and Central and landscape have already disappeared
South America, along with immigrants beneath factories, condos, and cabbage
from around the Caribbean. This ethnic fields, but those involved in industry and
diversity is celebrated in an endless cycle agriculture are acting more responsibly,
of exuberant festivals, music, and local food. and water use is now strictly monitored.
Florida’s natural treasures, from its
Economics & Tourism freshwater swamps and hardwood forests
For most of Florida’s history, its main to its last remaining panthers, are now
source of revenue has been agriculture – protected for posterity.
citrus fruits, vegetables, sugar, and cattle,
which was originally introduced by the
Spanish colonists. In fact, Florida produces
over 70 percent of the citrus fruits
consumed in the United States today,
while Kissimmee is known as the “cow
capital” of the state. High-tech industry is
significant as well, and the proximity of
Miami to Latin America and the Caribbean
has made it the natural route for trade
with the region. This proximity has also
contributed to the state’s flourishing cruise
industry. Florida’s warm climate has also
generated high-profile moneyspinners, A vibrant mural in Key West’s Bahama Village
288  FLORIDA

Montgomery ALABAMA
Bainbridge
231
Lake
De Funiak Seminole
Springs 90
90 Marianna
New 10 Quincy
Orleans Valparaiso 10 19
Monticello
Navarre 98

ol a
Pensacola Destin Blountstown

c h ic
Fort Panama
Gulf Santa Walton 98 City Tallahassee 19
Perdido Rosa Seaside 231
Breeze

a
Beach

Apal
Key Island 27
Panama Panama Wakulla
City Beach City Perry

Exploring Florida
98
Apalachee
Bay
Port 98
St. Joe Carrabelle Keaton Beach
From beaches to theme parks, Florida attracts St. Joseph
Peninsula
Dog Island
almost 40 million visitors a year. The principal Apalachicola
St. Vincent
Island
attractions are Miami and Orlando, but there St. George
Island
are other exciting destinations as well, such as
St. Augustine and Pensacola, established by Spanish
colonialists in the 16th century. For nature lovers,
the Everglades is a thrilling experience, while the
Keys offer a choice of activities, such as fishing,
diving, and snorkeling. An extensive road network
links the main towns, so traveling by car in Florida
is both quick and enjoyable.

Sights at a Glance The Panhandle

1 Miami pp290–99 a Tallahassee
s Pensacola
The Gold & Treasure Coasts
d Apalachicola
2 Fort Lauderdale
3 Boca Raton The Gulf Coast
Art Deco motif, commonly
4 Arthur R. Marshall Loxahatchee f Tampa seen in Miami
National Wildlife Refuge g St. Petersburg
5 Palm Beach h Sarasota p319 Key
j Lee Island Coast
Highway
Orlando & the Space Coast
The Everglades & the Keys Major road
6 Cocoa Beach
7 Kennedy Space Center k Big Cypress Swamp Railroad
8 Canaveral National Seashore & l Everglades National Park
Merritt Island z Biscayne National Park
9 Walt Disney World ® Resort x The Keys
pp304–307 c Key West
0 Universal Orlando® Resort
pp308–309
Mileage Chart
q SeaWorld® Orlando & Discovery
Cove® pp310–11
Miami
70
w Orlando 113
Palm Beach 10 = Distance in miles
e Winter Park 10 = Distance in kilometers
237 171
Orlando
r International Drive 381 275
t LEGOLAND® Florida Resort 314 247 107
St. Augustine
505 398 172
y Disney Wilderness Preserve
504 438 257 205 Tallahassee
811 705 414 330
The Northeast 707 642 450 399 197 Pensacola
1138 1033 724 642 317
u Daytona Beach
279 200 84 190 274 468
i St. Augustine Tampa
449 322 135 306 441 753
o Fernandina Beach 262 228 106 212 299 490 24
St. Petersburg
422 367 171 341 481 789 39
p Ocala National Forest
230 195 131 236 333 520 60 35
Sarasota
370 314 211 380 536 837 97 56
161 233 394 478 641 873 426 410 376
Key West
259 375 634 769 1032 1405 686 660 605

For keys to symbols see back flap

 INTRODUCING FLORIDA  289

Atlanta
Savannah

GEORGIA 23
Fernandina Beach
Jacksonville Amelia Island
75 301
41

Jacksonville
Live Oak Jacksonville Beach
10
1
Lake City
Su Mandarin
w
an
F LO R I D A
ne

St. Augustine
e

301
95
Gainesville
Steinhatchee Ocala Marineland
Gainesville
National Palatka
Cross Creek Forest
1 Flagler Beach A lifeguard keeping watch on a
19 Panhandle beach
Daytona
Suwannee 98 75
Lake Beach
George Daytona Beach
Ocala Silver
92
Cedar Key Springs
Ponce Inlet
Wi t hl a
co New Smyrna Beach
o 4
27
ch

Crystal River e Mount Dora Canaveral National

e

Sanford
Homosassa Springs 441 Sanford Seashore & Merritt Island
Orlando
Winter Park
98
Universal Orlando
Weeki Wachee
Orlando® Resort Kennedy Space Center
International Cape Canaveral
19 Walt Disney Drive
Dade City World® Resort SeaWorld®
LEGOLAND® Orlando Cocoa Beach
Tarpon Springs Florida Resort & Discovery Cove® Indian River
FL

RI Melbourne
O

Lakeland Winter DA
Tampa Disney 'S
Clearwater 4 Haven
Wilderness Sebastian Inlet
TU

St.Petersburg
RN

Bartow Lake Preserve

Clearwater
ATLANTIC
PIK

95
Gibsonton Wales
E

Tampa
St. Petersburg Bay 41 Yeehaw Vero Beach OCEAN
Junction
75
17 Sebring
Anna Maria Bradenton 441 Fort Pierce
27
95 Hutchinson Island
Sarasota
ka Okeechobee
ak Stuart
Arcadia
My

75 l 1
a
Venice an
GULF OF Port Charlotte Lake uc i eC
41 Okeechobee St. L
MEXICO 75 Pahokee
tc h e e Palm Beach
aha
Boca Grande Cal o o s Clewiston
Palm
Belle Beach Lake Worth
Cayo Costa Fort Myers Glade
27
Lee Island Coast
Fort Myers Immokalee Arthur R. Marshall Delray Beach
Captiva Island Loxahatchee
Sanibel Island Bonita National Wildlife Boca Raton
Springs Refuge
41 75

Naples Big Cypress Fort Lauderdale Fort Lauderdale

Swamp Hollywood
Hollywood
Ochopee
Marco Island
Everglades 41
Miami
Ten City Miami
Th
ou

Bay ne

Everglades
sa

cay
nd

National Park
Bis
Isla

Florida Biscayne
nd

City National Park

s

0 kilometers 50
1
0 miles 50 John Pennekamp
Flamingo State Park
Key Largo
y
a Ba
Florid Tavernier
Islamorada
Indian &
The Keys Lignumvitae Keys
Lower Keys
ys
1
Key West Marathon
Dry Pigeon Key Ke
Tortugas
Key West r ida
Flo
290  FLORIDA

1 Miami
A small trading post a century ago, Miami, or
Greater Miami, now covers 2,000 sq miles
(5,180 sq km) and has a population of 2.5 million.
The metropolis incorporates many districts and
cities and comprises Miami-Dade County.
Miami’s top sights are its beaches, especially
fun-filled South Beach. Other sights include Little
Havana, the heart of the city’s Cuban population,
and the suburbs of Coral Gables and Coconut Grove.
Miami Beach, a city in its own right, linked by
Key causeways to the mainland
Sight/Place of interest
Beach area
Expressway

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37TH AVE / DOUGLAS RD

COUNTRY
COUNTRY Douglas
Douglas SO SO
CLUB CLUB GABLES
GABLES Road Road
DAY A
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AY AY
57TH

57TH

GRAND GRAND
AVE AVE
A DA

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W GRAND
HW GRAND Y AY
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0 km 1

0 mile 1

For keys to symbols see back flap

 MIAMI  291

Getting Around
Public transportation in Miami is run by the Miami-Dade
Transit Agency, which operates the buses, the Metrorail
commuter rail network, and downtown’s elevated
Metromover. However, the best way to get around is by
car, while taxis are recommended at night.

DRIVE

DRIVE
OEDYFRR
ODFR EYD RD
R GR G

UE

IVEEN U E
HRUT H U
A RTA

AVE N

C REEK

C REEK
E
N E DR IV
D RV
T REIER IE A
IR IE
Sunset
Sunset
Isles Isles

ROAD

ROAD

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PRA

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INDIA
MIAMI
MIAMI

P INE P

P INE
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BEACH l l
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ON

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s C ins C
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AVE

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AV E

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MA
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FLAMINGO
FLAMINGO
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Overtown A A
C
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PARK PARK LUMMUS

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MER I DIAN

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RD

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AM

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Lummus
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S M IU

PARK PARK
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N
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Brickell n ern PARK
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Financial nt n
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District t t
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SIMPSON
SIMPSON
PARK PARK
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H

T T
R R
N
O O
N KE KE
R IC RIC
B B
Sights at a Glance
1 South Beach
2 Holocaust Memorial
3 Bass Museum of Art
Greater Miami
4 Biscayne Bay Boat Trips 916 916
915 915
27 27 NorthNorth
5 Museum Park Miami
Miami
Bal Bal
6 Miami-Dade Cultural Center Hialeah
Hialeah
Harbour
Harbour

7 Downtown 821 821 826 826

195 195
8 Little Havana
9 Coral Gables
Sweetwater Miami
Sweetwater Miami
0 Biltmore Hotel Miami
Miami
BeachBeach
q Venetian Pool Tampa
Tampa

w Coconut Grove Village 986 986 Coconut

Coconut
GroveGrove
e Vizcaya p297 SouthSouth
Miami
Miami
Greater Miami Key
Kendall
Kendall B i s cBa iysnc ea y n e
(see inset map) Area of main map Bay Bay
r North Beaches Highway Cutler
Cutler
RidgeRidge
t Ancient Spanish 994 994
Major road
Monastery p298 Goulds
Goulds 0 km 5
Other road 821 821
y Key Biscayne 1 1
0 miles 5
Key West
Key West
u Fairchild Tropical
Botanic Garden
i Zoo Miami
o Wings Over Miami
292  FLORIDA

in the 1920s, which has an

excellent collection of fine and
decorative arts.
Between Washington and
Drexel Avenues is Española
Way, a small, pretty enclave of
Mediterranean Revival
buildings, where ornate arches,
capitals, and balconies adorn
salmon-colored, stuccoed
frontages. Built from 1922–25,
this street is said to be the
inspiration for Addison Mizner’s
Worth Avenue in Palm Beach
(see p301). Offbeat art galleries
A colorful lifeguard hut overlooks the ocean on Miami Beach and boutiques line this leafy
street, and on weekends craft
1 South Beach was introduced in the 1980s booths are set up here.
by designer Leonard Horowitz. The pedestrian Lincoln Road
Map F2. @ A (101), C, H (108), J, L
Collins and Washington Mall is one of Miami’s cultural
(112), M (113), 120, 123, 150 (airport).
n 1001, Ocean Drive, (305) 763-8026. Avenues, too, have their share corners, dominated by the
∑ mdpl.org of Art Deco buildings, such as ArtCenter South Florida.
the classic Marlin Hotel at 1200 Established in 1984, the
This trendy district, also known Collins Avenue, one of the finest ArtCenter has two exhibition
as SoBe, extends from 6th to 23rd representations of Streamline areas and more than a dozen
Streets between Lenox Avenue Moderne. Farther north is the studios that double as work-in-
and Ocean Drive. A hedonistic luxury Delano Hotel (see p326), progress and selling space, as
playground, enlivened by an end- with its striking non-Deco interior well as independent galleries.
less parade of fashion models, of billowing white drapes, The galleries are usually open
body builders, and drag queens, cabanas, and sun-beds around in the evenings when the mall
SoBe is also home to the world’s the pool. Other buildings of comes alive as theatergoers
largest concentration of well- interest are the 1920s frequent the restored Art Deco
preserved Art Deco buildings. Mediterranean Revival Old City Colony Theatre. After a heavy
The 800-odd buildings along Hall and the austere Miami Beach dose of modern art, the stylish
Ocean Drive were, in fact, modest Post Office on Washington restaurants and cafés, such as
hotels built in the 1930s by Avenue. Inside the Post Office is a Books & Books at 927, just across
architects, the most famous of mural showing the arrival of Juan from the center, offer respite.
whom was Henry Hohauser, who Ponce de León, the Spanish The Beach, extending for
used inexpensive materials to conquistador who discovered 10 miles (16 km) up the coast,
create an impression of stylish- Florida in 1513. Also on evolved into a spectacular
ness. The present use of bright Washington Avenue is the winter playground after the
colors, known as Deco Dazzle, Wolfsonian Museum–FIU, built bridge connecting the island

Ocean Drive: Deco style A flamingo is etched into glass

doors in the Beacon’s lobby.
The splendid array of buildings on
Ocean Drive illustrates Miami’s
unique interpretation of the Art Deco
style, popular all over the world in the
1920s and ’30s. Florida’s version, often
called Tropical Deco, uses motifs
such as flamingoes, sunbursts, and
jaunty nautical features, appropriate
to South Beach’s seaside location.
Three main styles exist: traditional Art
Deco, futuristic Streamline Moderne,
and Mediterranean Revival, inspired
by French, Italian, and Spanish
architecture. A spirited preservation
campaign, led by Barbara Capitman in
the 1970s, made this area the first Beacon (1936)
20th-century district in the country’s A contemporary color scheme, an example of
National Register of Historic Places. Horowitz’s Deco Dazzle, brightens the abstract
decoration above the first-floor windows.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp326–8 and pp329–31
 MIAMI  293

with the mainland was built in 2 Holocaust

1913. Much of the sand flanking Memorial
the beach was imported several
decades ago, and it continues Map F2. 1933–45 Meridian Ave.
to be replenished to counter Tel (305) 538-1663. @ A (101), C, H
coastal erosion. The vast stretches (108), J, L (112), M (113), 120, 123, 150
(airport). Open 9:30am–sunset daily.
of sand are still impressive and
7 ∑ holocaustmemorialmiami
draw large crowds of people.
beach.org
The beach constantly changes
atmosphere. Surfers predominate Miami Beach has one of the
up to 5th Street. The vast beach largest populations of Holocaust
beyond is an extension of SoBe’s survivors in the world, hence
lively persona, with colorful life- the great appropriateness of
guard huts and posing bathers. Kenneth Treister’s gut-wrenching
Alongside runs Lummus Park, memorial, finished in 1990. The Coronation of the Virgin (c.1492)
where remnants of a once centerpiece is an enormous by Domenico Ghirlandaio
thriving Jewish population still bronze arm and hand stretching
exist, and which is a familiar skyward, representing the final 3 Bass Museum
backdrop for TV shows and grasp of a dying person.
photo shoots. Around 21st It is stamped with a of Art
Street, the clientele is number from Auschwitz Map F2. 2100 Collins Ave. Tel (305)
predominantly gay. and covered with 673-7530. @ M, S, C, H, G, L.
The stretch north more than 100 life- Open noon–5pm Wed–Sun.
of 23rd Street is size bronze statues Closed Mon, Tue, public hols. & ^
sometimes known as of men, women, and 7 ∑ bassmuseum.org
Central Miami Beach. children in the throes
The most eye-catching of the most unbearable This Mayan-influenced, 1930s
sight here is the grief. Titled The Sculpture Deco building has a good
impressive Fontainebleau of Love and Anguish, this is collection of European paint-
Hotel (pronounced one of the most powerful ings, sculpture, and textiles
“Fountainblue” locally). contemporary sculptures donated in 1964 by the
Completed in 1954, this in Florida today. Around philanthropists John and
curvaceous structure the central plaza is a Johanna Bass. The collection,
was architect Morris tunnel lined with the dating from the 15th to 17th
Lapidus’ (1903–2001) names of Europe’s centuries, includes Renaissance
interpretation of a concentration camps, works, paintings from the
modern French château. a graphic pictorial northern European schools,
With its grandeur, pool, The Holocaust history of the Holocaust, featuring paintings by Rubens,
and waterfall, the hotel Memorial and a granite wall and huge 16th-century
was the ideal setting for inscribed with the Flemish tapestries. The perm-
the 1960s James Bond names of thousands of victims anent galleries have more than
film classic, Goldfinger. who perished. 2,800 pieces on display.

The corners of The terrazzo floor in the bar

Terra-cotta A veranda is a the building are is a mix of stone chips and
tiles prerequisite for most beautifully mortar – an inexpensive
Ocean Drive hotels. rounded. version of marble that brought
style at minimal cost.

Adrian (1934) Cardozo (1939)

Its Mediterranean inspiration and A late Henry Hohauser work and a favorite of Barbara
subdued colors make the Adrian Capitman, this Streamline gem replaces traditional Art Deco
stand out from other buildings. details with curved sides and aerodynamic racing stripes.
294  FLORIDA

4 Biscayne Bay excursions, and a tall- ship cruise.

Duck Tours take place on an
Boat Trips amphibious vehicle that departs
Map D3. Bayside Marketplace. several times a day from South
q College/Bayside. @ 3, 16, A (101), Beach, just off Lincoln Road.
C (103), S (119), 11, 120 Beach MAX, 93 The tour takes in points of interest
Biscayne MAX. Island Queen Cruises: in South Beach and heads into
(305) 379-5119. Duck Tours: (305) 673- Miami before “splashing” into
2217. All other tour boats: (305) 577- Biscayne Bay for a closer look at the
3344. ∑ islandqueencruises.com homes of the rich and famous on Miami-Dade Cultural Center,
Star Island. Bayside Marketplace is in downtown Miami
A leisurely way to view the a fun complex with several shops,
sprinkling of exclusive private bars, and restaurants, including 6 Miami-Dade
island communities around
Biscayne Bay is to take one of
the Hard Rock Café, complete with
a guitar erupting from its roof.
Cultural Center
the many cruises from Bayside Bayfront Park is nearby. At its Map D3. 101 West Flagler St.
Marketplace. Tours, such as center is the Torch of Friendship, q Government Center. @ all buses
“Millionaire’s Row” run by Island commemorating John F. Kennedy, to Miami Ave. HistoryMiami: Tel (305)
375-1492. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,
Queen Cruises, leave regularly surrounded by the coats of arms
noon–5pm Sun. & 7 Main Public
and last about 90 minutes. of Central and South American
Library: Open Mon–Sat.
Tours begin by sailing past countries; a plaque from the
Dodge and Lummus islands, city’s exiled Cuban community Designed by the celebrated
where the world’s busiest cruise thanks the US for allowing them American architect Philip
port is situated. This port, which to settle here. Johnson in 1982, the Miami-
contributes an annual income of Dade Cultural Center is a large
more than $5 billion to the local complex, with a Mediterranean-
economy, handles more than three 5 Museum Park style central courtyard and
million cruise passengers a year. fountains. It includes a museum
Map D3. Biscayne Boulevard
Near the eastern end of q Museum Park. @ 2, 3, 11, 35, 103,
and library. The Museum of
MacArthur Causeway is the US 119, 137, 207, Night Owl. Pérez Art HistoryMiami concentrates
Coastguard’s fleet of high-speed Museum Miami: 1103 Biscayne on pre-1945 Miami. Besides
craft. Opposite lies the unbridged Boulevard. Tel (305) 375-3000. displays on the Spanish
Fisher Island, separated from South Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm colonization and Seminole
Beach by Government Cut, a water Thu). ∑ pamm.org Patricia and culture, there is a fascinating
channel dredged in 1905. Named Phillip Frost Museum of Science: collection of old photographs.
after Carl Fisher, the developer of 3280 S Miami Ave. Tel (305) 646-4400. These bring to life Miami’s early
Miami Beach, the island is an ∑ frostscience.org history, from the hardships
exclusive residential enclave and endured by the early pioneers to
resort with prices beginning This large park houses the Pérez the fun-filled Roaring Twenties.
around $1 million. The tour Art Museum Miami, and the
continues north around the man- Patricia and Phillip Frost
made Star, Palm, and Hibiscus Museum of Science. The Pérez 7 Downtown
islands, where real estate lots were museum’s collection consists of
Map D3. q various stations. US
sometimes sold “by the gallon.” 20th-century and contemporary
Federal Courthouse: 301 N Miami Ave.
Among the lavish mansions are international art, with an Tel (305) 523-5100. q Arena/State
the former homes of Frank Sinatra emphasis on art of the Americas. Plaza. Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri.
and Al Capone, as well as the The Frost Museum of Science Closed public hols. 7
present abodes of stars such as opened in the summer of
Gloria Estefan and Julio Iglesias. 2016, and the white globe of When the development of
Other boat trips include night- its planetarium is a landmark Miami took off with the arrival
time cruises, deep-sea fishing on the Miami skyline. of the Florida East Coast Railway
in 1896, the early city focused
on one square mile (2.5 km) on
the banks of the Miami River.
Today, this is the site of present
downtown and the hub of the
city’s financial district. Its
futuristic skyscrapers are a
monument to the banking
boom of the 1980s, when the
city emerged as a major
financial and trade center.
The raised track of the Metro-
One of the lavish mansions seen during a Biscayne Bay boat tour mover, a driverless shuttle
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp326–8 and pp329–31
 MIAMI  295

the world. The leaves are grown

in the Dominican Republic,
reputedly from Cuban tobacco
seeds, the world’s best.
The district’s nationalistic
focal point, Cuban Memorial
Boulevard, as Southwest
13th Avenue is known, is
dotted with memorials in
honor of Cuban heroes. The
most prominent is the Brigade
2506 Memorial’s eternal flame
commemorating the disastrous
Bay of Pigs invasion in 1961.
On April 17, people gather
Towering skyscrapers pierce Miami’s skyline here to remember the Cubans
who died in the attempt to
launched in 1986, provides a swift 8 Little Havana overthrow Fidel Castro’s regime.
but good overview of the area. Beyond are other memorials
Map C3. @ 8 from Downtown, 17, 6.
Among the most striking to heroes who fought against
El Titan de Bronze: 1071 SW 8th St.
high-rises here are the Four Tel (305) 860-1412. Open 9am– 5pm
Cuba’s Spanish colonialists in
Seasons hotel in Brickell area, Mon–Sat. the 1880s. At intervals, too,
Southeast Financial Center, and along Calle Ocho between
the Miami Tower, famous for its As its name suggests, the 12th and 17th
changing nighttime illumina- 3.5-sq-mile (9-sq-km) area Avenues, are
tions. Older structures include comprising Little Havana has stars on the
the Alfred I. DuPont Building been the surrogate homeland pavement
(1938) and the Ingraham of Cuban immigrants since the honoring
Building (1927), a Neo-Classical/ 1960s. The atmosphere here, modern-day
Renaissance Revival work. especially on the streets, is Latin celebrities
The US Federal Courthouse, vibrant and reflects the Cuban such as Julio Salsa music
completed in 1931, is an way of life. Spanish is spoken Iglesias and album covers
imposing Neo-Classical everywhere, while a salsa Gloria Estefan
building, with a pleasant, beat emanates from every in Little Havana’s version of
Mediterranean courtyard. other shop, and bodegas Hollywood’s Walk of Fame.
It has hosted a number (canteens) sell Cuban North of Calle Ocho, at West
of high-profile trials, specialties. The main Flagler Street and Southwest
including that of Manuel commercial thoroughfare 17th Avenue, the Plaza de la
Noriega, the former and sentimental heart is Cubanidad has a map of Cuba
Panamanian president, in Calle Ocho (Southwest sculpted in bronze. There’s a
1990. Its main attraction 8th Street), with its flourish of banners advertising
is the mural on the liveliest stretch between the headquarters of Alpha 66,
second floor. Designed 11th and 17th Avenues. Miami’s most hard-line anti-
by Denman Fink (see The small but authentic Castro group.
p296), it depicts Miami’s El Titan de Bronze, near Also in this district are the
transformation from a Calle Ocho and 11th tiny Máximo Gómez Park, or
wilderness into a modern Freedom Tower Avenue, is a cigar shop Domino Park, and Woodlawn
city. Entry is often (1925) with cigars handcrafted Cemetery. The Versailles
restricted, especially in the traditional Cuban restaurant, nearby, is the Cuban
during high-profile cases. style by rollers who have community’s cultural and
Miami’s oldest Catholic parish, worked in the finest factories in culinary bastion.
Gesu Church built in 1925, is on
Northeast 2nd Street. It is noted
for its fine stained-glass windows,
made in Munich, Germany. The
Freedom Tower, on Biscayne
Boulevard, is loosely modeled
on the Giralda in Seville. As first
home to the now-defunct Miami
News, it was the reception center
for Cuban exiles in the 1960s and
is now a cultural center. Macy’s
(formerly Burdines, founded in
1898) is on Flagler Street. A Cuban mural in Little Havana, symbolizing nostalgia for the homeland
296  FLORIDA

9 Coral Gables
Map A4. Lowe Art Museum: Tel (305)
284-3535. £ Metrorail (University).
@ 24, 42, 56. Open 10am–4pm Tue–
Sat, noon–4pm Sun. Closed major
public hols. & 7 Miracle Mile: £
Metrorail (Douglas Rd), then bus 42.

Aptly named the City Beautiful,

Coral Gables is a separate city
within Greater Miami. In the South view of the Biltmore Hotel, Coral Gables’ most famous landmark
1920s, George Merrick planned
this aesthetic wonderland with 0 Biltmore Hotel q Venetian Pool
Denman Fink as artistic advisor,
Frank Button as landscaper, and Map A4. 1200 Anastasia Ave. Tel (855) Map A4. 2701 De Soto Blvd. Tel (305)
Phineas Paist as architectural 311-6903. £ Metrorail (Douglas Rd), 460-5306. £ Metrorail (Douglas Rd),
director. Regulations guarantee then bus 42. 7 8 Sun free. then bus 42. Open Apr–May & Sep–
∑ biltmorehotel.com Oct: 11am–5:30pm; mid-Jun– mid-
that new buildings follow the
Aug: 11am–7:30pm Mon–Fri;
same part-Italian, part-Spanish
Nov–Mar: 10am–4:30pm; all year:
style advocated by Merrick. During its heyday in the 1920s, 10am–4:30pm Sat & Sun. Closed Mon
Major landmarks here include this hotel hosted figures such in Sep–May, Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
the Spanish Baroque Coral as Al Capone, Judy Garland, and Dec 24 & 25. & 7
Gables Congregational the Duke and Duchess of ∑ coralgables.com
Church, the district’s first Windsor. During World War II, it
church, the Spanish served as a military hospital and Perhaps the most beautiful
Renaissance Coral Gables City remained a veterans’ hospital swimming pool in the world,
Hall, and the Lowe Art until 1968. After a $55-million the Venetian Pool was
Museum, the first art restoration in 1986, it went bank- ingeniously fashioned from a
museum in South rupt in 1990 but reopened coral rock quarry in 1923 by
Florida, located in two years later. The Denman Fink and Phineas
the University of Biltmore’s most Paist. Pink stucco towers and
Miami’s campus. striking feature vine-covered loggias, candy-
Its main shopping is a 315-ft (96-m) cane Venetian poles, a
street was named near replica of cobblestone bridge, fountains,
Miracle Mile (the Seville Cathedral’s waterfalls, and numerous
walk along one side La Giralda, also the caves surround crystal-clear,
and down the other Coral Gables Congregational model for Miami’s spring-fed waters, which are
being the mile in Church Freedom Tower great for swimming. The pool
question) by a (see p295). Inside is was once one of the most
developer in 1940. The a grand lobby, lined with fashionable social spots in
Colonnade Hotel was built Herculean pillars. The Biltmore Coral Gables – in the lobby
in 1926 by Merrick as the has one of the largest hotel are a series of photographs
headquarters for his real estate swimming pools in the US, where of beauty pageants staged
business. Nearby, at Salzedo its famous instructor, Johnny here during the 1920s. This
Street and Aragon Avenue, is Weissmuller – known for his beautiful public swimming
the Old Police Station Building, role as Tarzan – set a world pool is definitely worth a visit,
built in 1939. record in the 1930s. for a swim or just a look.

Venetian Pool, ingeniously created in the 1920s out of an old coral rock quarry
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp326–8 and pp329–31
 MIAMI  297

stylish Streets of Mayfair. In

w Coconut Grove contrast are the food stalls of
Village the colorful farmers’ market,
Map B4. £ Metrorail (Coconut held every Saturday at 3300
Grove). @ 42 from Coral Gables, Grand Avenue.
48 from downtown, 6, 27, 22. On Grand Avenue, too, are
the simple homes of the local
Miami’s oldest community, Bahamian community,
Coconut Grove was a fabled descendants of the Wreckers Coconut Grove Village, a lively area of
hippie hangout in the 1960s. (see p323), who lived here from shops, cafés, and bars
Today, “the village,” as it is simply the mid-1800s. The exuberant
known, is famous for its cafés Goombay Festival, a party home of Ralph Monroe, a
and restaurants, especially at with a parade, great food, and Renaissance man who made
night or on weekends. This is Caribbean music, is held here his living from ship building
also the city’s most relaxed every summer. and wrecking. At 3400 Devon
shopping area with many In a shady, affluent neigh- Road is the picturesque
boutiques and two malls – borhood south along Main Plymouth Congregational
the outdoor CocoWalk, and the Highway, is the Barnacle, Church, built in 1916.

e Vizcaya altered by succeeding and quaint buildings,

Map C4. 3251 S Miami Ave. Tel (305) generations. As a result, including a Japanese
250-9133. £ Metrorail (Vizcaya). Vizcaya and its opulent tea house. Deering would
@ 48. Open 9:30am–4:30pm Mon, rooms come in a blend always ask of his architect:
Wed–Sun. Closed Thanksgiving, of styles from Renaissance “Must we be so grand?”
Dec 25. & 8 7 limited. ^ - = to Neo-Classical, furnished fearing that Vizcaya
∑ vizcaya.org with the fruits of Deering’s would be too costly to
shopping sprees around support. After Deering’s death
Florida’s grandest residence was Europe. The formal Statue of in 1925, it proved to be
completed in 1916 as the winter gardens, a rarity in Florida, Pulcinella so until it was bought by
retreat for millionaire industrialist beautifully combine Miami-Dade County in
James Deering. His vision was to Italian and French garden 1952. The house and
replicate a 16th-century Italian features with tropical foliage. gardens were opened to the
estate, but one that had been They are dotted with sculptures public thereafter.

Deering Bathroom has marble

The Courtyard, now protected
walls, silver plaques, and a
with glass, was once open to
canopied ceiling.
the sky.

The Living Room is a

The Music Room is
grand Renaissance hall
arguably the loveliest room The Swimming Pool, visible
with a curious addition of
in the house. It is lit by a outside, is approached from a
a specially made organ.
striking chandelier. grotto behind the house.
298  FLORIDA

Greater Miami r North Beaches

The areas north of Miami Beach and downtown and Map F4. Collins Ave. @ H, L, or S from
South Beach or downtown.
south of Coral Gables are seldom very scenic, but they
are still well worth exploring for the great beaches and The Barrier Islands to the
family amusements. To the south of the city, past citrus north along Collins Avenue
are occupied mainly by
groves, coastal mangrove swamps, and the edges of the posh residential areas and
Everglades, visitors can find the city’s zoo, along with inexpensive resorts, popular
several stunning gardens. with package tours. A quiet strip
of sand between 79th and 87th
Streets separates Miami Beach
from Surfside, a simple
community popular with
French Canadians. At 96th
Street Surfside merges with
Bal Harbour, a stylish enclave
known for its flashy hotels and
one of Miami’s swankiest malls,
Bal Harbour Shops. To the north
is the pleasant Haulover Park,
with a marina on the creek
side and dune-backed sands
Beach at Haulover Park, under the protective eye of a lifeguard facing the ocean.

tAncient Spanish of foot-and-mouth disease decided to piece together

Monastery led to the crates being opened
(to check the packing straw),
“the world’s largest and most
expensive jigsaw puzzle.”
Map F4. 16711 W Dixie Hwy, N Miami and the stones were repacked The cloisters resemble the
Beach. Tel (407) 945-1461. @ H from incorrectly. Once in New York, original, but there is still a pile
South Beach, 3 from downtown. they remained there until of unidentified stones in a
Open 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat, 1952, when it was corner of the gardens.
11am–4:30pm Sun. Closed public
hols, may close for special events. &
7 ∑ spanishmonastery.com
Chapterhouse The Chapel, at
These monastery cloisters have one time the
dining hall, is still
an unusual history. Built in Spain used for worship.
between 1133 and 1141, they
were bought in 1925 by news-
paper tycoon William Randolph
Hearst (see p676), who
had their 35,000 stones
packed into crates.
An outbreak

Statue of Alphonso VII,

patron of the
monastery

The cloister
entrance is a
carved, early
Gothic arch.

The bell outside the

chapel door The quiet gardens
are a popular spot for
wedding photos.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp326–8 and pp329–31
 MIAMI  299

The tranquil, palm-fringed lakes of the Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden

y Key Biscayne of man-made lakes. The garden 20-minute ride on the monorail
also has an impressive array for an overview of the zoo, and
Map F5. 7 miles (11 km) SE of down-
town. @ B. Bill Baggs Cape Florida
of cycads – relatives of palms then visit what you like; or
State Park: Tel (305) 361-5811. and ferns that bear unusual take the monorail to Station 4
Open daily. ∑ floridastateparks.org giant red cones – as well as and then walk back.
countless other trees and
The view of downtown from plants, including a comical-
o Wings Over
Rickenbacker Causeway, looking sausage tree.
connecting the mainland to Guides on the 40-minute tram Miami
Virginia Key and Key Biscayne, is tours describe how plants are Map F5. 14710 SW 128th St, adjacent
one of Miami’s best. Views used in the manufacture to Tamiami Airport. n (305) 233-
aside, this has some of of medicines and 5197. Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun.
the city’s top perfumes (the Closed public hols. & 7
beaches. The most flowers of the ylang- ∑ wingsovermiami.com
impressive is at ylang tree, for
Crandon Park in the example, are used This museum is dedicated to
upper half of the Key, Palms in Fairchild Tropical in Chanel No. 5). the preservation of old aircraft.
which is 3 miles Garden The waterfront Its hangars contain a superb
(5 km) long and Mattheson Hammock collection of finely preserved
enormously wide, with palm Park is next door to the Fairchild examples of aircraft that are still
trees and picnic areas. At the Tropical Garden. Its highlight in operation, including a 1943
southern end, the Bill Baggs is the Atoll Pool, a salt-water AT6D Texan “Old Timer,” a
Cape Florida State Park has a swimming pool circled by Douglas B-23 Dragon, and
shorter beach joined to more sand and palm trees alongside a British Provost Jet, as well
picnic areas by boardwalks Biscayne Bay. as a wide range of other
across the dunes. fascinating exhibits such as a
machine-gun turret.
i Zoo Miami All these planes take to the
u Fairchild Tropical Map E5. 12400 SW 152nd St, Miami. sky during the Memorial Day
Botanic Garden Tel (305) 251-0400. £ Metrorail weekend celebration, while in
Map F5. 10901 Old Cutler Rd. (Dadeland North) then Zoo Bus. February, they are joined by
Tel (305) 667-1651. £ Metrorail Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily. & 7 B-17 and B-24 bombers in the
(Douglas Rd) then bus 136 (limited ∑ zoomiami.com Wings of Freedom event.
service). Open Office: 8am–5pm daily.
Gardens: sunrise–sunset daily. This enormous zoo is con-
Closed Dec 25. & 8 7 sidered one of the country’s
∑ fairchildgarden.org best. Animals are kept in
Mattheson Hammock Park: Tel (305) spacious landscaped
665-5475. Open 6am–sunset daily. habitats, separated from
humans by moats. High-
Established in 1938, this lights include lowland
beautiful tropical garden is gorillas, Malayan sun bears,
also a major botanical research and white tigers. The Petting
institution. One of the world’s Zoo is a favorite with kids,
largest collections of palm and the Wildlife Show
trees (550 of the 2,500 known demonstrates the agility Resident lions relaxing in the green landscape
species) stands around a series of the big cats. Take the of Zoo Miami
300  FLORIDA

2 Fort Lauderdale Cloister Inn, finished in 1926,

with his trademark Spanish
* 170,000. k £ @ g n 101
details. The hotel is now part
NE 3rd Ave, #100, (954) 765-4466.
of the exclusive Boca Raton
Proclaimed the “Yachting Capital Resort and Club. Weekly tours
of the World,” Fort Lauderdale’s for nonresidents are arranged
character is defined by its by the Boca Raton Historical
waterways, which branch Society, based at the Mizner-
from the New River and the designed Town Hall.
Intracoastal Waterway. The area Just opposite is the open-air
around the mouth of the river Mizner Park, perhaps the most
is known as the Isles. This is impressive of Boca Raton’s
the city’s prime area, with dazzling malls. Located in a
mansions behind lush foliage spectacular setting within
and luxurious yachts moored Mizner Park is the Boca Raton
in the waterways. Peach-pink Mizner Park, one of Boca Museum of Art. This museum
Millions of visitors head for Raton’s shopping malls contains 44,000 sq ft (4,088 sq m)
the barrier islands lying along of space for world-class
the coast between the beaches bank. The Historic District runs exhibitions and an impressive
and the Intracoastal Waterway. along Southwest 2nd Avenue display of contemporary art.
The waterway crosses Port and has a few early 1900s The verdant and historic Old
Everglades, the world’s buildings, such as the Floresta Historic District, a mile
second largest cruise Fort Lauderdale (1.6 km) west of the Town Hall,
port after Miami. History Center. has 29 Mediterranean-style
Riverboat cruises The city has the houses built by Mizner.
and water taxis liveliest beaches Boca Raton’s long, undeveloped
are also available. on the Gold Coast, beach is reached via beachside
Las Olas especially toward parks, such as Red Reef Park, which
Boulevard, the city’s Water taxi on the New the end of Las Olas also has the informative Gumbo
busiest street, is River, Fort Lauderdale Boulevard, where Limbo Nature Center. The most
lined with eateries skaters cruise past northerly of the parks, Spanish
and boutiques. The fine NSU bars and shops. To the west is River Park is also the most
Art Museum, also located here, Sawgrass Mills, Florida’s largest attractive, with pleasant picnic
is best known for its works by mall, with a wide range of luxury areas shaded by pines and palm
the CoBrA artists, a group of outlet stores. trees. It also has a lovely lagoon
20th-century Expressionist on the Intracoastal Waterway,
painters from Copenhagen, next to an observation tower.
Brussels, and Amsterdam. 3 Boca Raton
Downtown is the city’s * 91,000. £ n 1555 Palm Beach E Boca Raton Museum of Art
business and cultural center. Lakes Blvd, (561) 233-3000. 501 Plaza Real, Mizner Park.
Riverwalk, a 1.5-mile (2.4-km) Tel (561) 392-2500. Open 10am–5pm
stretch along the New River’s Affluent Boca Raton was originally Tue–Fri (to 9pm Wed), noon–5pm Sat
north bank, links most of the a sleepy pineapple-growing & Sun. Closed public hols. & 7
∑ bocamuseum.org
city’s historical and cultural settlement that architect
landmarks; it starts at Addison Mizner (1872–1933)
Stranaham House (1901), envisaged as the “greatest resort
which originally served as a in the world.” The nucleus of his 4 Arthur R. Marshall
trading post, post office, and vision was the ultra-luxurious Loxahatchee
National Wildlife
Refuge
10216 Lee Rd. Tel (561) 732-3684.
£ Boynton Beach. @ Refuge:
Open daily. Closed Dec 25. & 7 8
Visitor Center: Open May–Oct: Wed–
Sun; Nov–Apr: daily. Closed Dec 25.

The northernmost part of

the Everglades (see p321), this
221-sq-mile (572-sq-km) refuge
is known for its superb wildlife.
The best time to visit is in
winter, when migrating birds
Cyclists and skaters enjoying the beachfront in Fort Lauderdale arrive here from the north.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp326–8 and pp329–31
 THE GOLD & TREASURE COASTS  301

Renaissance structure and Palm

Beach’s grandest hotel (see p326).
The epitome of Palm Beach’s
opulent lifestyle, however, is
Worth Avenue. Stretching
across four blocks from Lake
Worth to the Atlantic Ocean,
this is the town’s best known
thoroughfare. It first became
fashionable with the
construction of the Everglades
Club in 1918, a collaborative
effort between Mizner and his
patron, Paris Singer, heir to
the sewing machine fortune.
Today, Worth Avenue boasts
a spectacular mix of glitzy
fashion boutiques, art galleries,
and shops.
Picturesque alleyways,
reminiscent of the backstreets
of Spanish villages, connect
with Worth Avenue. These
interlinking pedestrian alleys,
created by Mizner, are a riot
of arches, twisting flights of
stairs, cascading bougainvillea,
and courtyards. The Esplanade,
an open-air mall, is at the
eastern end.
The multimillion-dollar
An alleyway along Worth Avenue, Palm Beach’s most exclusive street mansions of Palm Beach are
located in the suburbs. Some
The visitor center, off Route 441, the area between Cocoanut were built by Mizner and his
has a display that explains the Row and South County Road. imitators in the 1920s, but since
Everglades’ ecology, and there Of these, the Flagler Museum then hundreds of other houses
are also two trails. The Cypress (formerly Whitehall), Flagler’s have proliferated in styles from
Swamp Boardwalk is lined with 55-room winter residence, has a Neo-Classical to Art Deco. The
wax myrtle trees, and the longer grand marble entrance hall, an most easily visible are on a ridge
Marsh Trail is a bird-watcher’s Italian Renaissance library, and along South Ocean Boulevard,
paradise, with ibis, herons, and a Louis XV ballroom. Flagler’s nicknamed “Mansion Row.”
anhingas. Visitors can also spot private railroad car is on display The most elaborate residence,
turtles and alligators. Those with on the South Lawn. Mar-a-Lago (# 1100), is now a
canoes can explore the 5.5-mile To the south, the Society of top-end private club owned
(9-km) canoe trail, and there are the Four Arts, founded in 1936, by millionaire Donald Trump.
also numerous nature walks. has two libraries, an exhibition
space, and an auditorium E Flagler Museum
for concerts and films. Other 1 Whitehall Way. Tel (561) 655-2833.
5 Palm Beach interesting buildings include Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–
* 8,500. k £ @ n 45 Cocoanut the Town Hall, built in 1926, the 5pm Sun. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
Mizner Memorial Park, and The Dec 25. & 7 limited. 8 - =
Row, (561) 655-3282.
∑ flaglermuseum.us
Breakers, a mammoth Italian
Essentially a winter resort for
the rich and famous, Palm
Beach was created at the end
of the 19th century by the
railroad baron Henry Flagler.
In the 1920s Addison Mizner
built luxurious Spanish-style
mansions for its residents, a
trend that established its unique
look and influenced future
architectural styles. Palm Beach’s
major sights can be viewed in Flagler Museum at Palm Beach, formerly Henry Flagler’s winter home
302  FLORIDA

6 Cocoa Beach screens that are five floors

high. Footage from the shuttle
* 11,200. @ Merritt Island.
missions offer breathtaking
n 8501 Astronaut Blvd, (321)
views of Earth from space.
784-6444.
West of the entrance, the
This large, no-frills resort calls Rocket Garden is where
itself the East Coast’s surfing visitors can walk through a
capital. Surfing festivals set group of rockets, each
the tone, along with win-your- representing different stages
weight-in-beer competitions. in space history. With Journey
Motels, restaurants, and gift to Mars: Explorers Wanted,
and souvenir shops characterize visitors can learn what the
the main street. The dazzling future holds for space
Ron Jon Surf Shop has surf exploration and discover
boards galore (for sale and the latest developments at
rent) and a huge T-shirt Rockets on display at the Cape Canaveral NASA; visitors can even step
collection. The pleasant Air Force Station inside a replica of the Orion-
beaches offer great viewing spacecraft, NASA’s next
spots for the rocket launches NASA rockets as well as generation of transport into
from Cape Canaveral. commercial rockets, such deep space, and which seeks
as SpaceX, continue to be to explore Mars, asteroids, and
launched from Cape Canaveral. the moon. The Astronaut
7 Kennedy Space The center was also the site of Encounter is where visitors
Center the historic launch of Apollo 11
in July 1969, when President
can meet someone who has
launched, lived, and worked
Off Rte 405, 6 miles (9.6 km) E of John F. Kennedy’s dream of aboard the space shuttle or
Titusville. Tel (321) 449-4444. landing a man on the moon the International Space Center.
@ Titusville. Open 9am–6pm daily
was realized. At the heart of the Visitor
(closing time varies Sep–Dec; The Visitor Complex, built in Complex, the Space Shuttle
check website). Closed Dec 25.
1967 for astronauts and their Atlantis Exhibit displays the
The center occasionally closes for
families to view space center Atlantis, as only astronauts
operational requirements; always
call ahead. & 7 wheelchairs operations, is a 131-sq-mile have previously seen it –
available at Information Central. (340-sq-km) facility that includes suspended in the air, with
0 = Tel (866) 737-5235. many attractions. Its highlights its payload doors open and its
∑ kennedyspacecenter.com include the Space Shuttle robotic arm extended, as if it
Atlantis exhibition and the two were at work at the Inter-
When Cape Canaveral was IMAX® Theaters, which show national Space Station.
chosen as the site for NASA’s films on space exploration on Simulators and exhibits
(National Aeronautics and
Space Administration) space
program in the 1960s, the
area came to be known as
the Space Coast. The Kennedy
Space Center on Merritt Island
was the launching place for
shuttle flights to the Inter-
national Space Center until
2011. The historic space
shuttles no longer fly, but Space Shuttle Atlantis, Kennedy Space Center

Timeline of American Space Exploration

1975 American Apollo and 1996 Mars Pathfinder sent to gather
1958 First 1969 Neil Russian Soyuz vehicles dock data from the surface of Mars
American Armstrong and
in orbit (Jul 17) 2003 Columbia 2015 A new era of
satellite, the Buzz Aldrin
Explorer 1, is (Apollo 11) walk 1981 Columbia is breaks up upon space flight for
launched on the moon the first shuttle in re-entry into the SpaceX and other
(Jan 31) (Jul 24) space (Apr 12) atmosphere (Feb 1) commercial rockets

1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020

1962 John 2011 Final flight of shuttle
1961 Alan 1990 The Hubble telescope is
Glenn orbits Atlantis and the end of the
Shephard the earth in launched (Apr 24)
becomes the 30-year Space Shuttle
Mercury 1986 The Challenger explodes,
first American Program
spacecraft killing its crew (Jan 28)
in space

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp326–8 and pp329–31
 O R L A N D O & T H E S PA C E C O A S T  303

attraction that teaches physics see alligators and the

and engineering through video endangered manatee, but the
games. There are two special- highlight is the rich birdlife.
interest tours – Discover KSC: The Canaveral National
Today and Tomorrow, an Seashore has a pristine 24-mile
insider’s view of the entire space (39-km) stretch of beach. Apollo
shuttle program, and the Cape Beach at the northern end, and
Canaveral: Then & Now Tour, Playalinda Beach to the south
an expedition to the Mercury, are fine for sunbathing, but
Gemini, and Apollo launch pads. swimming can be hazardous,
It takes visitors to the Air Force and there are no lifeguards.
Space & Missile Museum, where The top of Turtle Mound offers
America’s first satellite was splendid views of Mosquito
launched, then to the launch Lagoon (aptly named, so be
complex where Alan Shepard sure to bring repellent in spring
lifted-off on America’s first and summer).
Launch pads seen on Kennedy Space human space flight. The tour Route 402 to Playalinda Beach
Center Tours concludes at the Apollo/Saturn has views of the Kennedy Space
V Center. Visitors should Center’s launch pads. It also
the actual consoles from which remember that the Kennedy crosses Merritt Island National
the first eight manned missions Space Center and Cape Wildlife Refuge, which covers
were monitored. Footage and Canaveral are working space an area of 220 sq miles
interviews with some of the launch facilities, and tours may (570 sq km). Much of the refuge
personnel are the highlights. be altered or closed due to lies within the Space Center
Next are displays of some of operational requirements. and is out of bounds. Winter is
the authentic Mercury and Outside the Center, prime the best season to visit. To view
Gemini spacecraft. viewing sites for rocket launches the local wildlife, follow the
The Center offers a number of are in Titusville and Cocoa Beach. Black Point Wildlife Drive, which
interesting tours. The Kennedy has the 5-mile (8-km)
Space Center (KSC) Bus Tour Environs Cruickshank Trail. Be sure to
leaves from the Visitor Complex The US Astronaut Hall of Fame pick up the informative leaflet
and offers an overall tour. Visitors at Titusville, 9 miles (14 km) west at the drive’s entrance. The
enter secured areas, where of KSC, offers exciting Visitors’ Information Center has
guides explain the inner workings opportunities to experience displays on the habitats and
of each facility. Each tour can weightlessness and ride flight wildlife in the refuge. One mile
take between two and six hours. simulators with G-forces. (1.6 km) farther east, the
The Apollo/Saturn V Center Oak Hammock and Palm
features an actual 363-ft (110-m) Hammock trails have short
Saturn V moon rocket, used by 8 Canaveral boardwalks across the
the Apollo missions. Visitors can marshland for bird-watchers.
watch the launch of Apollo 8, National Seashore
the first manned mission to the & Merritt Island O Canaveral National Seashore
moon, in the Firing Room Rte A1A, 20 miles (32 km) N of
@ Titusville. ∑ nps.gov/cana
Theater, followed by a film at Titusville or Rte 402, 10 miles (16 km)
the Lunar Theater, which shows These adjacent preserves on E of Titusville. Tel (321) 267-1110.
footage of the moon landing. the Space Coast share an Open daily. &
This is also the only place in the astounding variety of fauna and O Merritt Island National
world where guests can dine a range of habitats including Wildlife Refuge
next to a genuine moon rock, at estuaries and hardwood Rte 406, 4 miles (6.5 km) E of Titusville.
the Moon Rock Café. hammocks. Visitors can often Tel (321) 861-0667. Open daily.
The multimedia exhibit
surrounding the Space Shuttle
Atlantis showcases the
Space Coast Birdlife
spacecraft that orbited Earth on The Space Coast is a bird-watcher’s paradise. Its
33 missions from 1985 to 2011. magnificent and abundant birdlife is best
The shuttle is displayed as only viewed early in the morning or shortly before
astronauts have previously seen dusk. Between November and March, in
it, with its payload bay doors particular, the marshes and lagoons teem with
migratory ducks and waders, as up to 100,000
open. Simulators and exhibits
birds arrive from colder northern climates. Royal
portray the day-to-day mission
terns, white ibis, black skimmers, brown pelicans,
jobs and the history of the and sandhill cranes are some of the birds that
shuttle program. are frequently seen.
Kids will enjoy the Angry Brown pelican
Birds Space Encounter, an
304  FLORIDA

9 Walt Disney World® Resort Useful Numbers

Walt Disney World® Resort, covering 43 sq miles (69 sq km), General Information
is the largest entertainment complex on earth. The main Tel (407) 939-1936.

draw is its theme parks: Magic Kingdom®, Epcot®, Disney’s Accommodation Infor­
Hollywood Studios®, and Animal Kingdom®. A self-sufficient mation/Reservations
vacation spot, the Resort offers more than 30 lodgings Tel (407) 939-5277.
right on site, along with golf courses, water parks, a sports Dining Reservations
complex, hiking and riding trails, lakes for boating, and Disney Tel (407) 939-3463.
Springs, the shopping district. Peerless in its imagination ∑ disney.go.com
and attention to detail, the Resort is also a hermetic bubble
cocooned from the real world. Everything runs like clockwork,
and nothing shatters its illusions of fantasy. Unless you’re a of Walt Disney World® is the
confirmed cynic, Walt Disney World® Resort will amaze you. Ticket and Transportation
Center (TTC). Connecting it to
the Magic Kingdom® are two
When to Visit Length of Visit monorail services. A third
The busiest times of the year Walt Disney World® offers at monorail links the TTC to Epcot®.
are Christmas and Easter, June least a week of entertainment. Ferries run from the TTC to the
to August, and the last week in To enjoy it to the full, give Magic Kingdom®. They also
February. At these times, the Magic Kingdom® and Epcot® connect the Magic Kingdom®
parks approach capacity – some two days each, and a day each and Epcot® with resorts in their
90,000 people in the Magic for Disney’s Hollywood Studios® areas. Buses link everything in
Kingdom® alone. Even so, all and Animal Kingdom®. Keep Walt Disney World®, including
the rides operate and the parks three nights to see the splendid direct links to Magic Kingdom®.
remain open for much longer. fireworks displays at Magic Residents and pass holders can
During the off-season, 10,000 Kingdom® and Epcot®. use the entire transportation
visitors a day might visit the system for free, while one-day
Magic Kingdom®, and certain tickets allow holders to use the
attractions may be closed for Getting Around ferries and monorails between
maintenance. The weather is An extensive transportation the TTC and Magic Kingdom®.
also a factor – in July and August, system handles an average of
hot and humid afternoons are 250,000 guests each day. Even
regularly punctuated by thunder- if you stay outside Walt Disney Disabled Travelers
storms. Between October and World® Resort, many nearby Wheelchairs can be borrowed at
March, the temperatures hotels offer free shuttle ser vices the park entrance, and special
and humidity are much more to and from the theme parks. bypass entrances allow disabled
comfortable and permit a Check when you make your guests to board rides without
more energetic schedule. reservation. The transport hub waiting in line. Staff, however,
are not allowed to assist with
lifting for safety reasons.
Walt Disney Resort Key
Magic Kingdom® Resort Area
Magic Disney Springs Resort Area
Very Young Children
Kingdom® Parents with pre-school age
Epcot® Resort Area
Studio Resort Area
kids can make use of the unique
system known as “switching
Disney Springs off,” where they can enjoy
various rides and attractions
one at a time while the other
Ticket and parent stays with the child,
Transportation Center without having to line up twice.
Exit 27
Epcot® The Resort can be
Disney’s Animal
exhausting, so it is a good idea
Kingdom®
Exit 26B to rent a stroller from any park
entrance. Take frequent breaks
Disney’s Typhoon from the excitement and the
Hollywood Lagoon heat by building in time for
Studios® snacks or naps.
0 meters 800
Exit 25B If you’ve come with young
0 yards 800 kids you should focus mainly
on the Magic Kingdom®.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp326–8 and pp329–31
 O R L A N D O & T H E S PA C E C O A S T  305

Safety dently but Disneyesque in every Resort Dining

The resort’s first-rate security other respect) are of a very high Visitors should make reser-
force means problems are standard. However, even the vations in advance for any
dealt with promptly. Cast lowest-priced places are more full-service restaurant in
members are trained to watch expensive than many hotels Walt Disney World® Resort,
out for unaccompanied outside Walt Disney World®. especially in the theme parks
children and escort them to Nevertheless, a few practical and above all in Epcot®.
lost children centers. reasons to stay there are: Whether or not you are staying
• Proximity to parks and free use at one of the resorts, reser-
of Disney’s transportation. vations for dining can be made
Parking • Early entry privileges into the 60 days in advance. Some
Visitors to the Magic Kingdom® parks (up to 90 minutes). Check in tables are held for same-day
must park at the TTC and use advance with each park for details. reservations, so make your
public transportation; Epcot® • Guaranteed admission to the reservation as early in the
and Disney’s Hollywood Studios® theme parks even when morning as possible. For
have their own parking lots. the parks are otherwise full. restaurant details, see page 330.
Parking is free for Disney Resort • The possibility of dining with
residents and some pass-holders; your favorite Disney character in
others must pay a fee of $20, your hotel. Meeting Mickey
but only once a day regardless • The delivery of shopping For many youngsters, meeting
of how many times they move purchases made anywhere the Disney characters is the
their vehicle. within the Resort. high point of their visit. Apart
• Note that the hotels close to from seeing them in the parks,
Disney Springs (formally known you can also meet them in
Advantages of Staying in as Downtown Disney) are not numerous restaurants (usually
the Resort run by Disney and offer few of at breakfast). Each park and
Lodgings in the resorts and in the above mentioned privileges. many resorts also offer
Walt Disney World Swan and For information on hotel listings “character dining,” but you
Dolphin (operated indepen- see page 327. must book ahead.

DIRECTORY
Information Busiest Days Top Tips
Each of the theme parks is • Lines are shortest at the start
Tickets & Types of Passes
busiest on certain days: and end of the day, and during
You can buy one-day, or
two- to 10-day, one-park Magic Kingdom®: Monday, parade and meal times.
Thursday, and Saturday. The wait for a show is rarely
tickets, but if you’re planning
Epcot®: Tuesday, Friday, longer than the show itself.
to visit more than one park,
• Parks fill rapidly after the first
consider adding the and Saturday.
hour of opening. Until then,
following options: Disney’s Hollywood Studios®:
you can often just walk onto
Park Hopper Add-On: entitles Wednesday and Sunday. rides for which there will be
entry to all four parks. Opening Hours a line later.
Water Park Add-On or Park • After a thunderstorm, the
When the theme parks are
Hopper and Water Park Add- water parks are often almost
busiest, opening hours are the
On: gives access to any empty, even at the busiest
longest: 9am to 10/11pm or
combination of parks. times of the year.
Seasonal, Annual and
midnight. In less busy periods,
• Information regarding timings
Premium Annual Passes: cost hours are 9am to 6/7/8pm.
of shows, parades, and rides,
little more than a 7-day park The parks open early for pass
and tips such as the waiting
hopper for an entire year of holders and guests at any times at various attractions,
visits. Child pricing applies to of the Resort hotels. Call to are usually available at each
ages 3–9. Prices depend on check details. park. Check at bulletin boards,
length of stay. The Ideal Schedule Information Centers, and
FastPass+ allows guests Guest Services.
To avoid the worst of
to reserve fast admission to • Ask for a Park Map.
the crowds and heat, arrive
rides and attractions such as • During parades, other
shows, parades, and fireworks early and visit the popular attractions are quiet.
in advance. Guests staying at attractions first. Take a break • Wear a comfortable pair of
a Disney Resort Hotel can make in the afternoon, when it is shoes, as the parks entail a
FastPass+ reservations up hot and parks are busy, and lot of walking.
to 60 days in advance of return in the evening to see • There is very little shade,
their visit. parades and fireworks. so be sure to wear a hat.
306  FLORIDA

of flying with the delight of

Magic Kingdom® perfectly matched music and Epcot®
Magic Kingdom® is the essential movement. “it’s a small world” Epcot®, an acronym for the
Disney theme park. Disney is a musical indoor voyage and Experimental Prototype
characters fill its cheerful one of the most popular rides Community of Tomorrow, was
acres, and seven lands evoke at Disney. Disney’s dream of a techno-
different themes. The Haunted Mansion® in logically advanced community
It is best to head straight for Liberty Square leads visitors that represented a utopian
Space Mountain®, a superb through a spook-ridden vision of the future.
coaster in Tomorrowland®. mansion and graveyard. The enormous 250-acre
It shoots around in stygian Set in the Wild West, (101 ha) park is divided into two
blackness against projections Frontierland® offers a journey halves: Future World, with an
of asteroids and galaxies. on a runaway train known as emphasis on entertainment and
Another popular attraction is Big Thunder Mountain education; and World Showcase,
Monsters, Inc. Laugh Floor. Railroad. The fun Country which represents the art, culture,
Guests find the power of Bear Jamboree is an Audio- and culinary skills of different
laughter in an interactive Animatronics® animal show, countries around the globe.
adventure inspired by the and Splash Mountain® is an Boats cross the World Showcase
movie. Buzz Lightyear’s Space exciting flume ride. Lagoon frequently and are a con-
Ranger Spin is a fabulous Adventureland® is a fusion venient method of getting here.
journey in a two-seater car. of Africa and the Caribbean. The unmistakable seven-and-
It is fitted with laser cannons The Jungle Cruise goes past a-half-thousand-ton globe of
and a control, so you can shoot an animatronically animated Spaceship Earth is the focal
at targets with a laser beam. setting of Africa. Another point of Future World. It takes
Fantasyland®, dominated voyage, Pirates of the visitors past tableaux and
by Cinderella’s Castle, forms Caribbean®, leads you into Animatronics® scenes
the core of the Magic Kingdom®. Captain Jack Sparrow territory portraying future possibilities in
Other attractions include the and past 16th-century galleons. technology. Since most people
very popular Be Our Guest Main Street USA is famous visit here first, there are long
Restaurant inside the Beast’s for the Festival of Fantasy, lines in the mornings, so it is
Castle, Seven Dwarfs Mine a fantasy of music, live action, best seen in the afternoon.
Train ride, and a choice of and illuminated floats. In Test Track, one of Epcot’s®
Disney character rides inside peak season, it takes place top rides, places visitors in a
the Storybook Circus, with at 7pm and again at 9pm. simulator that moves on tracks
its colorful circus tents. The The afternoon parade is best at high speeds. You test a
Many Adventures of Winnie viewed from Frontierland®. prototype sports car at over
the Pooh uses the latest The evening parade also 66 mph (106 km/h) on a raised
technology, lighting, and sound features Celebrate the Magic – roadway. Try to visit this ride first
effects to create an enchanting a spellbinding musical in the morning. The popular
experience, while Peter Pan’s journey through the world Mission: SPACE uses state-of-
Flight combines the feeling of Disney characters. the-art technology to simulate a
ride to Mars in a rocket. This
may cause motion sickness.
Eating & Drinking The Imagination Pavilion
The typical fare at Magic Kingdom® is fast food. However, try the features Journey into
Liberty Tree Tavern or Crystal Palace for quieter dining. Cinderella’s Imagination with Figment, an
Royal Table in the castle has a regal ambience, and the Be Our Guest upbeat ride, which explores ideas
Restaurant offers upscale French cuisine. relating to the arts and sciences.
The dining at Epcot® is superb, particularly World Showcase, At The Seas with Nemo
where reservations are required. Recommended are: Mexico: & Friends Pavilion visitors
the San Angel Inn serves interesting but pricey Mexican cuisine. can watch sea life through
Italy: Tutto Italia Ristorante serves pasta and fine Italian specialties. transparent walls, climb aboard
Japan: you can eat communally, either in the Teppan Edo or at a “Clamobile” to search for
the bar of Tokyo Dining for sushi and tempura. France: the upscale Nemo, or enjoy the interactive
Monsieur Paul (dinner only); Les Chefs de France, and Les Halles show, “Turtle Talk with Crush.”
Boulangerie Patisserie; and Canada: Le Cellier Steakhouse for The Land Pavilion has a
steaks and crêpes.
tremendously popular attraction
At Disney’s Hollywood Studios®, you can soak up the atmos-
called Soarin’. Visitors are lifted
phere at three of the full-service restaurants. The costly Hollywood
Brown Derby replicates Hollywood’s Original Brown Derby, where the
high off the ground in a simu-
stars met in the 1930s. Children prefer the Sci-Fi Dine-In Theater lated hang-glider trip. The wind
Restaurant, where you sit in mini-Cadillacs and watch old sci-fi films. whips through your hair and your
For dining without a reservation, try Hollywood & Vine, which serves feet dangle above treetops as
pasta, salads, seafood, ribs, and steaks. you “fly” over California. World
Showcase has architectural
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp326–8 and pp329–31
 O R L A N D O & T H E S PA C E C O A S T  307

showpieces of 11 different and famous actors’ clothes.

countries, with replicas of famous The Great Movie Ride Disney's Animal
buildings. Each pavilion is staffed carries visitors past enormous Kingdom®
by people from the country it movie sets, where scenes This park has both real and
represents, selling ethnic from films are re-created mythical beasts, spread over
products and food. The best live using live action. seven different “lands.”
shows are the acrobats at China Sunset Boulevard is an At Discovery Island®, the It’s
and the Japanese drummers. evocation of the famous Tough to be a Bug® show is a
Highlights include Reflections Hollywood street in the superb 3-D presentation. The
of China – a Circle-Vision film on 1940s. Re-created theaters and World of AVATAR, from Disney's
China’s ancient sites; Fozen Ever storefronts are dominated by spectacular Pandora is on track to
After in Norway – recreates the the Hollywood Tower Hotel. open in 2017. The AVATAR Flight
world of the popular film, Frozen; This lightning-ravaged hotel of Passage offers visitors an aerial
and Impressions de France – a is the spot for Orlando’s view of the Pandora world.
film offering a whirlwind tour scariest ride – The Twilight Africa offers the fabulous
of France. Do not miss Zone Tower of Terror™ – in Kilimanjaro Safaris®, where you
IllumiNations, a son-et-lumière which you are strapped into an see animals roaming freely. Other
show with lasers, fire- and elevator for a voyage inspired highlights include Pangani Forest
waterworks. It is staged near by the 1950s TV show The Exploration Trail, and the musical,
closing time around World Twilight Zone™. Its high point Festival of the Lion King.
Showcase Lagoon. is the ghastly 13-story plunge, Asia features gibbons, birds, and
repeated no fewer than seven tigers in a re-creation of Indian
times. The Rock 'n' Roller ruins. Tapirs and Komodo dragons
Disney’s Hollywood Coaster® Starring Aerosmith are found on the Maharaja Jungle
Studios® accelerates to 60mph (96 km/h) Trek®, the climax of which are the
Disney’s Hollywood Studios®, in 2.8 seconds in the dark, and Bengal tigers that roam the ruins.
opened in 1989, and cele- pulls 5G in the first corkscrew. Expedition Everest™ – Legend
brates the Hollywood film Pixar Place’s Toy Story of the Forbidden Mountain is a
industry. With the success and Midway Mania! is a 4-D huge attraction where visitors
popularity of the Star Wars saga, midway-style game-playing ride a train through the misty
Star Wars inspired entertain- adventure, a favorite with kids. unknown. DinoLand U.S.A. has
ment is a major highlight of Streets of America is a clever the wild DINOSAUR ride, where
Disney’s Hollywood Studios®. re-creation of New York, San a motion simulator bucks and
The phenomenal success of Francisco, Chicago, and other weaves, trying to ensnare and
the latest film, Star Wars: The cities. Its highlight is the avoid dinosaurs.
Force Awakens has ensured spectacular Muppet™ Vision
the addition of experiences 3-D, a slapstick 3-D movie
such as the Star Wars Launch starring the Muppets. Trom- The Rest of Walt Disney
Bay, where visitors can play bones, cars, and rocks launch World® Resort
interactive video games and themselves at you out of Walt Disney World® Resort has
see artifacts related to the the screen – so realistic that over 30 resorts (see p327), two
movies. Star Wars: Path of children often grasp the air water parks, a campground, more
the Jedi allows visitors to expecting to touch something. than 300 restaurants, nightclubs,
relive the saga cinematically, Echo Lake offers the Indiana a shopping village, and half a
and the enhanced Star Tours – Jones™ Epic Spectacular, a dozen golf courses.
The Adventures Continue 30-minute live show featuring Of the water parks, Blizzard
takes visitors on a 3-D motion edge-of-your-seat stunts Beach, a reconstructed Alpine ski
simulator to multiple Star Wars and adventures. In the same resort, claims to have the tallest
destinations. Fans can look area, visi