COSMETICS

UNIVERISTY OF SANTO TOMAS

FACULTY OF PHARMACY
Cosmetics Product

 Any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact

with the various external parts of the human body or with the
teeth and the mucous membrane of the oral cavity

 Cleaning

 Perfuming

 Changing the appearance

 Correcting body odor

 Protecting or keeping them in good condition

Cosmetics Labeling

 Name of the Cosmetic Product

 Instruction for use

 Full Listing of ingredient in descending order

 Country of manufacture

 Name and address of the company

 Content

 Batch number

 Manufacturing and Expiry date

 Special Precaution
Mouthwash

 Mouthwash

 Aqueous solution which is most often used for its deodorant

refreshing or antiseptic effect

 Solution for cleansing the mouth or treating disease condition

of the oral mucus membrane

 Pleasant rinser for the oral cavity usually providing a

refreshing feeling to the mucosa

 Reduce bacterial concentration and odor in mouth for short

period of time
Mouthwash

Mouthwash can be used for 2 purposes:

1. Therapeutic – formulated to reduce plaques, gingivitis, dental caries,

stomatitis

2. Cosmetics – formulated to reduce bad breath through the use of

antimicrobial and/or flavoring agent

- More often used cosmetically than therapeutically

Taste – one of the most important factors contributing to its consumer

acceptability

Clarity – Clear solution is desired because clarity is one pre-requisite

Mouthwash

Basic Component of a Mouthwash

1. Antibacterial agent – usually the AI; has antiseptic or local anti-infective

Example: Phenolic compound, quarternary ammonium compound,

antibiotic

a. Povidone Iodine – betadine

b. Benzoic acid – Listerine

c. Hexetidine – Bactidol

d. Benzoxonium chloride & Lidocaine HCl – orofar L

Mouthwash

2. Carrier/ Vehicle – alcohol and/or water (hydroalcoholic solution)

Water – principal diluent in a mouthwash

Alcohol – lies between 10-20% in a water – alcohol mouthwash

- Provides certain sharpness to the taste and aids in marking the

unpleasant taste of AI

- Solubilizing agent

- Preservative
Mouthwash

3. Humectants – Glycerin and sorbitol may form 5 – 20% of the mouthwash

- Increase viscosity of the preparation
- Provides certain mouthful of the product
- Enhance sweetness of the product
Mouthwash

4. Surfactant – concentration range from 0.1 – 0.5%

- Maybe a)cationic (cetylpyridinium Cl); b)anionic (Na Lauryl

sulfate) c)Non-ionic (polyoxyethylene/ polyoxypropylene)
5. Flavorant – Include essential oil/ volatile oil-and synthetic
aromatics

- Gives sensation of coolness (peppermint, eucalyptus)

- Eg: Peppermint oil, methyl salicylate, eucalyptus oil,
thymol, clover oil, etc
Mouthwash

6. Sweetener – Fermentable sugar are rarely used because of the possibility of

assisting tooth decay (sucrose, etc.)
- Saccharin – most commonly used sweetener
- Sweetening agents – heightens the flavor effect but this must be done prudently
to avoid excessive sweetness which is undesirable
Mouthwash

7. Special Deodorant – Contains flavorant possess

deodorizing or odor masking properties

8. Astringent – Serves to coagulate loose mucus secretions

thereby facilitating their expulsion during rinsing

- Causes constriction of tissues

- Protein precipitant

9. Colorant – FD & C
Mouthwash

Labeling – contains: Direction for use; Not intended to be

swallowed

Use:

- Halitosis (Bad breath) – due to bacteria that act on

food residues in the mouth

- Morning breath – by product of sleep

- Bad breath – often more embarrassing that harmful &

can be prevented by good oral hygiene
Preparation 9:
Mouthwash
Formula Original Amount
Benzoic acid 1.5g
Thymol 0.5g
Chlorothymol 0.5g
Menthol 0.5g
Eucalyptol 0.1g
Methyl salicylate 0.2mL
Thyme oil 0.01mL
Glycerin 150.0mL
Alcohol 200.0mL
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 1.0g
Purified water, qs ad 1000.0mL
Color, qs
Preparation 9:
Mouthwash
Procedure:

1. Charge 300mL of purified water

2. Heat at 60°C

3. Add benzoic acid

4. Add glycerin. Mix for 5 mins.

5. Add sodium lauryl sulfate. Mix for 5 minutes

6. Cool the compounding tank to 30°C

7. Place the alcohol in a small beaker and dissolve thymol, chlorothymol, eucalyptol, methyl salicylate, thyme oil,
menthol. Mix for 5 minutes

8. Add the alcoholic solution to the tank. Slowly with continuous stirring/mixing for 10 minutes allow for complete
solution

9. Add purified water to make the required volume

10. Filter the solution

Astringent Skin Lotion

Skin

- Largest organ of the body comprising 6% of the weight of

an adult

- pH is normally between 5 & 6

- Main barrier between the body and the environment

- Acidic – due to the presence of ampoteric amino acids,

lactic acid and fatty acids the secretion of sebaceous glands.
Astringent Skin Lotion

Astringent

 Cleanses the skin

 Locally applied protein precipitant

 Used to tighten and shrink tissue (reduce in size or pores)

 Low cell penetrability – action is limited to the cell surface and the interstitial
spaces

 Astringent action is accompanied by contraction and wrinkling of the tissue and

by blanching

 Affected area becomes drier, toughens the skin or decrease sweating

 Irritants/ caustics in moderate to high concentration

Astringent Skin Lotion

Composition:

1. Lactic Acid

 2 hydroxypropionic acid; milk acid

 Results from decomposition of lactose in milk

 Colorless or yellowish, nearly odorless, syrupy liquid

 Hygroscopic and decomposes when boiled

 Corrosive to tissue on prolonged contact

 Miscible with water and alcohol

 Antiseptic for acne treatment; for diaper rash

 10% solution is used as a bactericidal agent in skin of neonates

Astringent Skin Lotion

2. Alum

 Tawas, astringent

 Powerful, astringent in acidic solution

 Used frequently because it is less expensive

2 Forms:

a. Aluminum Ammonium Salt – Aluminum ammonium sulfate ( AlNH4(SO4)2·12H2O)

b. Aluminum Potassium Salt – Aluminum potassium sulfate (AlK(SO4)2·12H2O)

Astringent Skin Lotion

3. Glycerin

 Glycerol; 1,2,3-propanetic , trihydric alcohol

 Prepared in large quantities from propylene – a petroleum product

 Clear colorless, syrupy liquid sweet taste, hygroscopic

 Miscible with water and alcohol

 Emollient – soothing and softening agent

 Clarifying agent
Astringent Skin Lotion

4. Alcohol – 95% USP; solvent

5. Color – FD&C
6. Odor – perfume
7. Water – vehicle
Preparation 10:
Astringent
Formula:
Lactic acid 18.0g
Alum (NH4 Salt) 11.25g
Glycerin 90.0mL
Alcohol 95% 220.5mL
Color, qs
Perfume qs (lemon oil) 1.0mL
Purified Water qs ad 1000.0mL
Preparation 10:
Astringent
Procedure:

1. Charge 300mL of purified water

2. Add alum. Agitate for 10 minutes and observe for complete solution

3. Add glycerin. Agitate for 5 minutes

4. Add lactic acid. Mix for 5 minutes

5. In a separate container, place alcohol and add lemon oil. Agitate

6. Charge #5 (alcoholic solution) to the compounding tank slowly with continuous agitation for 10
minutes

7. Add enough purified water to make the required volume

8. Add qs colorant

9. Filter the solution

Preparation 10:
Astringent
Notes:
• It is possible to see some precipitate upon
standing
• The lower layer might be alum because it is
insoluble in alcohol
• The label of the container must indicate the
form of alum used
Shampoo

 Preparation of surfactant in suitable form – liquid, solid or powder which

when under specified condition will remove surface grease, dirt and skin
debris from hair shaft and scalp without affecting adversely the hair, scalp
and health of user
 Result of shampooing : leave hair Shiny, manageable, and lustrous
Shampoo

1. Clear liquid

 Liquid soap

 Most popular form because of the ease of application, rapidity

of lathering & better rinseability

 Usually based on potassium soap because of its greater

solubility

 Stable, easily colored and perfumed

 Materials used are SLS or SLES; foam builder ( CDA)

Shampoo

2. Cream shampoo

 Opaque, viscous

 Mixture of SLS and soap which makes the shampoo more

viscous

3. Lotion shampoo

 Clear, opaque or creamy liquid

 2 Main Parts: 1)Active detergent which washes the hair; 2)

Opacefier, gives the pearly look to shampoo
Shampoo

4. Gels
5. Aerosol & dry product
Shampoo

Shampoo Formulation:

1. Compounds for specialized capability

- Minimizing eye sting – eg. Special detergent used for

baby shampoo which has low irritancy- sulfosuccinate

2. Controlling Dandruff – Zinc pyrithion, selenium sulfide,

ketoconazole

3. Imparting appealing fragrance – to gain more favorable

acceptance from particular segment of the population
Shampoo

Components:

1. Surfactant – Surface active agent; detergent; washes the hair

Eg. SLS – anionic, SLES, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate

2. Foam Builder – Foamstabilizer; lubricates the hair for better slip & smoothness

Eg. SLS (surfactant); CDA (Fatty acid alkanolamide)

3. Conditioning Agent – Mosturizer, lubricates the hair for better slip and smoothness

Eg. Lanolin, glycerol, propylene glycol, isopropyl myristate

Shampoo

4. Clarifying Agent – Solubilizing agents helps maintain shampoo clarifying over a

wide temperature ranges they should be checked for possible eye irritation

Eg. Butyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propylene glycol, terpineol, diethylene

glycol, dietylene carbitol

5. Sequestering Agent – Prevent lime soap formation by:

a. Formation of insoluble calcium or magnesium salt when mixed with hard

water

b. Precipitation of lime soap film on the hair when the shampooed hair is
rinsed with hard water

Eg. Citric acid, slat of EDTA

Shampoo

7. Antidandruff Agent – addition of selenium sulfide or zinc

8. Thickening Agent – Increase viscosity; control viscosity

Eg. Synthetic gums, inorganic salt, longer chain acid, longer chain
alcohol or amides.

9. Preservatives – the best preservative for a particular shampoo

can be determined only by testing the effect of that particular
preservative in the shampoo formulation against all possibility of
attack by microorganism

Eg. Formaldehyde, ethanol, paraben

Shampoo

10. Other stability additives – stabilizes such as anti-

oxidant, sunscreen, suspending agent and pH control
agent

11. Other Cosmetic additives – perfume and dye in all

shampoo ensure cosmetic acceptability. Additives such as
tints & pearlescent pigment improve the cosmetic appeal.

QC: Pass the product use test – it should meet the

cleansing, rinsing, conditioning, and most importantly: 1)
Safety criteria of the product; 2) aesthetic characteristics
Preparation 11:
Shampoo
Sodium Laurel Sulfate 25.0g Surfactant, Foam Builder

Stearic Acid 6.5g Solidifying agent

Sodium Hydroxide 1.0g To foam soap

Lanolin 0.25g Conditioning agent

Opacifying agent, also impart
Cetyl alcohol 0.5g
texture
Purified water 67.75mL

Perfume 1-3 drops

One microspatulaful,
Methyl paraben 0.2g
preservative
Colorant, qs
Preparation 11:
Shampoo
Procedure:

1. Charge 80% of water and heat to 80˚C

2. Add SLS, stearic acid, lanolin, and methyl paraben. Stir until
homogenous

3. In another container, heat 20% of water to 50˚C. Dissolve NaOH

pellet

4. Add the homogenous solution to #3. Stir for 15 minutes Soap

5. Add cetyl alcohol and mix for 15 minutes ↑ability to retain large
quantities of water
Dentrifice

 Preparation intended for use with a toothbrush for the purpose of cleansing
the accessible surface of the teeth
 Forms
 Paste – most popular
 Powder
 Liquid – not abrasive
Dentrifice
Composition:
1. Abrasive – exert a mechanical cleansing effect on the teeth
- Particle size largely below 0.4mm in diameter
Example:
a.Titanium dioxide – polishing agent (has polishing effect on the teeth
- Makes up 0.2 – 0.6% of the volume of toothpaste
- Present in small fraction – less than 1/10 of the weight of the principal abrasive
- Particle size 0.2μm
b. Insoluble phosphate
c. Dicalcium phosphate
d.NaHCO3 / Baking Soda
Note:
* Typical dentrifices which have significant consumer acceptability are the toothpaste having a high
content of water insoluble abrasive such as : Dicalcium phosphate (Colgate) or other insoluble phosphate:
Sodium monofluorophosphate 0.2% in an aqueous humectants base (Close Up)
Dentrifice

2. Surfactant – surface active agent; has forming & detergent property

Example: SLS, Sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfonate

3. Flavor oils – imparts coolness

Example: Spearmint, Peppermint, Wintergreen, Cinnamon, mint

4. Sweetening agent – Impact coolness

Example: Saccharin

5. Water
Dentrifice

6. Humectant – Absorbs moisture in air; 5-35% of the total vehicle

Example: Glycerin, Sorbitol, PG, PEG, mannitol

7. Binder/Gelling Agent – Maintains consistency

Example: Tragacanth, gum, sodium alginate, synthetic derivatives of

cellulose (CMC)

8. Preservative – Benzoates, dichlorophene, formaldehyde

9. Special Additive – Fluoride compounds like stannous sodium fluoride

for effective control of dental caries and tooth decay; whitening agent
(NaHCO3)
Preparation 12:
Toothpaste
Sodium bicarbonate 51.0g

Titanium dioxide 0.5g

Water 26.6g

Glycerol 11.9g

SLS 1.5g

CMC 0.9g

Peppermint oil 0.9g

Sodium benzoate 0.5g

Sodium saccharin 0.17g

Preparation 12:
Toothpaste
Procedure:

1. In a mixer, form a gel by mixing CMC and H2O

2. Add glycerin, baking soda and titanium dioxide

3. Add sodium benzoate, sodium saccharin and peppermint

oil

4. Add SLS

5. Pack in a tube.
Face Powder

 A cosmetic product which has its prime function the ability to complement
skin color by imparting a velvet like finish
 Opaque enough to mask minor blemishes but it must not impart a mask like
effect
 2 Types: a) Loose face powder b) Compact face powder
Face Powder

Essential Characteristics of a Good Face Powder

1. Covering Power – Ability to mask skin defects such as skin shine,

enlarged pores and minor blemishes

2. Slip – Property of spreading over the skin without dragging and

giving the characteristic smooth feeling

3. Adhesive – Ability to cling to the face

4. Absorbency – Capable of absorbing skin secretion (perspiration

and oiliness) without showing evidence of such absorption

5. Bloom – Ability to impart a velvety, peach like finish to the skin

Face Powder

Compact Face Powder

 Dry powder which has been compressed into cake and is usually applied with
a powder puff
 Popularity is due to its ease of application and storage convenience
Face Powder

Characteristics of Compact Face Powder which do not present a problem in

loose powder:

1.Binding Ability
 Compress easily, hold together and not crumble or chip

 Building agent are added; compressor facilitate compression

Note: Too ↓ pressure during compression results to cake that will disintegrate

Too ↑ pressure during compression results in hard glazed cake and will not
pay off sufficiently

2. Pay-off – Sufficient pay-off when rubbed with a powder puff; it must come
off easily on to the applicator (puff)
Face Powder

Raw Materials – must be blend of specific raw materials that meet the essential or desirable characteristics

A.Talc

 First and foremost ingredient to considered in the formulation and manufacture of face powder

 Innocuous material (harmless)

 French chalk, soapstone, rice starch

 Chemically, Mg silicate (3MgO•4SiO2•H2O)

 Properties include:

 Slip – ease spreadability

 Low covering powder

 Non-toxic internally, harmless dermatologically

 Passed thru sieve #200 – micronized talc

Face Powder

B. Kaolin

 China clay

 General term applied to several hydrated aluminum silicate

 Face powder adjunct

 For good covering power and adhesion

 Grease resistant and has perspiration – absorbent property

 Control bulkiness and used to control fluffiness

 Dermatologically innocuous

 Its use in face powder does not normally exceed 25% since it is hygroscopic which
may result in streaking during damp weather
Face Powder

C. Precipitated Chalk

 CaCO3

 Preserves certain balance between slip and adhesion, coverage power and
transparency

 Good covering power

 Develop “Bloom effect” when face powder is applied

D. Magnesium Carbonate

 Has full absorbent properties

 Means of distributing perfume

 Should be used moderately because it may cause drying of the skin

Face Powder

E. Metallic Stearate (Zinc and Magnesium)

F. Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide

 Opacifiers, has covering properties (SPF)

 Formula ZnO may result to mask like effect and drying of the skin
Titanium Dioxide
 Is 3-4x better as covering agent than ZnO
 10 – 15%

 Opacifying agent; high reluctance to UV rays

 Protect the skin from sunburn – sunscreen
Face Powder

G. Silicon & Silicates

 Maintain free flowing characteristics even with high humidity
 Perfume carrier
 Eg. Magnesium trisilicate – high H2O & oil – absorption properties
Face Powder

H. Color

 Shading

 Inorganic pigment, organic lakes (Al,Ca,Ba lakes), tones

 Problems: Color blend due to solubility to perspiration and fatty secretion (therefore,
do not use water and oil soluble dye). Example: Iron dioxide may be : synthetic or
natural oxide – umbers, sienna, ocheres

 Frosted like materials (Frosted appearance)

a. Natural Pearlessnce – pearl luster (guanine)

b.Metallic Powder with sheen (Ca, Al, Bronze) & synthetic pigment with pearl like
luster (Bi oxychloride)

c.Mother of Pearl
Face Powder

I. Perfume

 Odor of powder plays an important role in the final

product

 Reasonable perfume range from 0.2-1%

 Non-irritating

 Stable to mildly alkaline condition

 Perfume and MgCO3 – good absorbent power

Face Powder

J. Binding Agent

5 Types

a. Dry – Zn or Mg Stearate

b. Oil – Mineral oil, lanolin derivative (3%)

c. Water-soluble – gum tragacanth, gum kaya, PVP, CMC – water soluble

d. Water repellant – mineral oil, fatty ester, lanolin derivative

e. Emulsion Binder – soap – triethanoliamine stearate;

- glyceryl monostearate
Face Powder

Example: Binder formula

Mineral oil 1%

Polyoxyethylene 2%
Water 97%
Preservative qs
Face Powder

Compress Method:
A. Dump Compressing Method
- Blend + wet with binder -> screen -> compress dry
B. Dry Compression
- Powder base -> color -> perfume -> mill powder
->moisten with binder -> blend -> compress
Preparation 12:
Face Powder
Formula

Kaolin 40.0g

Talc 40.0g

Calcium carbonate 5.0g

Titanium dioxide 7.0g

Magnesium Stearate 7.0g

Magnesium carbonate 1.0g

Colorant (iron oxide) qs

Perfume 0.2-1.0%

Mineral oil, qs
Preparation 12:
Face Powder
Procedure:

1. Base powder preparation: Tumbling method

Blend MgCO3, CaCO3, Mg stearate, TiO2, Kaolin and talc in a ribbon

type blender

2. Pass the powder in a sieve #100

3. Add enough perfume spraying to the blended powder

4. Add qs colorant in portion

5. Add qs mineral oil

Dishwashing Paste

 Special kind of soap or detergent which removes dirt and grease surface
(Sebo, mantika)
 For cleaning plates, spoons, greasy pots, pans, etc
Preparation 13:
Dishwashing Paste
Formula:

CMC 50.0g
CDA 50.0g

NaSLS 100.0g

Benzalkonium chloride 50.0g

Sodium tripolyphosphate 200.0g

Sodium sulfate 100.0g

Borax 300.0g

Colorant,qs
Lemon scent

Distilled water,qs
Preparation 13:
Dishwashing Paste
Procedure:
1. In a mixer, form a gel by mixing CMC and 100mL water
2. Add CDA, SLS, Benzalkonium chloride, STPP, sodium sulfate, borax, lemon
scent and qs color
3. Add enough water to get the desired consistency