ON NATURE’S ROAD: COSTA RICA
Between the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean there’s a scrap of paradise on Earth. In Costa Rica a 25%
of the territory is composed by natural reserves with beautiful spectacles that present themselves
without any warning. With a well-planned tour, it’s possible to cross the country in a week and
discover everything it has to offer.
By: Victor Gouvêa
Photos: Fernanda Frazão
[DAY 01 – SAN JOSÉ]
If it wasn’t for the flags in front of the embassies, nobody would say that the unique San José is a
country’s capital. Small (with barely more than a million Ticos, as Costa Ricans are called, working
and living there), clean and orderly, the city is a transit point on the way to rural destinations, but it
has its own charms.
One of them is the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum, sheltering a collection of 1.586 pieces from 500 B.C.
to 1500 A.D. Making a time leap, the National Theater, constructed at the end of the XVIII century by
coffee barons serves as a witness of the grain’s importance for local culture. Treat yourself with a
delicious part of this culture in one of the excellent coffee houses, like La Mancha, placed on the old
Steinvorth market in the central district. “It’s hard to find someone that doesn’t like coffee”, says
Diana Graeff, owner of Café del Barista, a simple place in its presentations but with a brew worthy of
the gods”.
[DAY 02, 03 AND 04 – TORTUGUERO NATIONAL PARK]
To focus on preserving nature, Costa Rica has narrow roads and each displacement can take hours
(compensated by the richness of the sights). That’s why, by the end of the second day you’ll arrive to
the next destination, the Tortuguero National Park. This beautify estuary in the country’s northeast,
where you can only travel by boat, it’s a true immersion in the jungle. The only sounds come from the
forest and some motors up-river.
The place is a sanctuary for marine turtles. One of the best ideas is to witness, between July and
October, the spawning on the volcanic sand beaches, the hatching of the eggs and the run of the baby
turtles to reach the salt water.
In this coastal and humid park, besides the turtles, live other reptile species, such as snakes, caimans
and the basilisk lizard. It isn’t hard to find otters, monkeys and other animals on the exploratory
tours through the canals and the lakes. But, for great satisfaction of bird-watchers, there are 442 bird
species flying around the Tortuguero in perfect harmony. The journey to the next destination begins
early, on the fourth day.
Tortuguero National Park: conserveturtles.org
[DAY 05 – ARENAL NATIONAL PARK]
In Costa Rica there are more than 100 volcanoes. One of the most famous is the Arenal, on the north
of the country, a volcano that entered its dormant stage in 2010 after years of eruptions. Walking the 5
km path, close to its base, on the Arenal National Park, the vegetation extends over the cold black
lava, in an organic journey to recover the equilibrium. All along the trek there are lookouts to
contemplate the majestic Arenal raising into the blue skies.
Volcanic action raised temperatures on surrounding waters and today the zone is recognized by its
natural pools and warm cascades. There are abundant park options with thermal waters. Some are
more familiar, with sleds and pools for the children, and more quiet ones for relaxation purposes,
close to the hotels. In the private Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park, ten hanging bridges help us
enter the rainforest. Juan Pablo, a local guide, imitates the sounds of birds to attract animals. “It’s like
a language we can learn”, he says. Some birds come out after they’re called in their own language. If
you think it’s exaggerated to call Costa Rica a paradise, you must visit the Arenal.
Arenal Nacional Park: sinac.go.cr
Mistico Park: misticopark.com
TO BELLA GUANACASTE
Another Costa Rica reveals itself in the northeast, in the province of Guanacaste. This region with
more than 700 km of beaches is also the place where the humid rainforest fuses with the dry woods.
In the Rincón de la Vieja National Park, the Cangreja cascade and the paths taking to the lookout are
some of the immersion treks. To relax there are excellent all inclusive resorts like Riu Guanacaste and
Riu Palace Costa Rica, close by. With the beach only a few steps away, activities include from the
tranquility of massages and spa, to more agitated sports like golf, surf and windsurf in the Golfo de
Papagayo.
Riu Guanacaste: riuguanacaste.com
Riu Palace Costa Rica: riucostarica.com
[DAY 06 AND 07 – MANUEL ANTONIO NATIONAL PARK]
The day starts early, and for a good reason: travelling to the Manuel Antonio National Park, on the
west coast of Costa Rica, on the Pacific Ocean. The remaining time of the day will be well spent
stretching your legs strolling through the beaches out of the park’s perimeter.
Biesanz Beach, for example, is a treasure only locals know of. Almost deserted, this tiny bay can be
reached following a ten-minute walk from the road. A tent rents kayaks, snorkels and stand up
paddles to explore the surroundings, free as the monkeys welcoming you everywhere you go.
The next day we’ll finally visit Costa Rica’s most typical postcard, Manuel Antonio National Park.
The difference between this park and the others is the amount and the diversity of its wild life: there
are 109 mammal species. Sloths, snakes, dwarf frogs, among others, demand these seven paths to be
walked slowly. Those arriving at 7 AM, the opening time, are rewarded with absolute silence and the
time when animals are stretching to begin the day.
After these long walks you can choose the best beach to rest. Espadilla is the most popular; Espadilla
Sur, a bit farther, and La Mancha, practically empty, and many others. They’re all adorned with white
sands, palm trees laying their shadows and rocks where waves break. The rich coast of Costa Rica,
whether on the Atlantic of the Pacific, never lets anyone down.
Manuel Antonio National Park: sinac.go.cr
