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HANDBOOK

2009
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HANDBOOK
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More information Publication

• The ‘Mates’ Riding Scheme is Acknowledgments
information a program that uses
First edition published 1983 A number of organisations have
experienced riders
Second edition published 1996
as mentors to help develop the riding
contributed to the preparation of this
If you would like more details on the information in this experience
Third edition publishedand June
skills of beginner
2004 riders.
handbook. TheirItassistance
is conducted
is
handbook, please contact: through
Reprinted with motorcycle
amendments clubs. gratefully acknowledged.
June 2009.
VicRider Reference Group:
VicRoads Tel: 13 11 71
1171 © Crown Copyright 2004
TAC, Victoria Police, FCAI, ARTA,
Roads Corporation,
Publication Victoria, Australia Acknowledgments
information
Victoria Police Tel: 9247 5779 RACV, WIMA, DECA, HART, Stay
First edition published 1983
This work is copyright. Apart from A numberMTA,
Upright, of organisations
Armstrongshave
Driver
Second
uses edition published
permitted under the 1996
Copyright contributedVicRoads
Education, to the preparation of this
Third edition published
may beJune 2004 handbook. Their assistance is
Latest information on road laws Act 1968,
Reprinted
in
no part
whole orwith amendments
in part,
reproduced,
May 2005 Special
by any process
thanks
gratefully for assistance
acknowledged.
© Crownwritten
Copyright 2004 from with photography:
without permission VicRider Reference Group:
Road laws change from time to time, and so do the Roads Corporation, Victoria, Australia HART (Honda)
VicRoads. TAC, VictoriaDriver
Armstrongs Police, FCAI, ARTA,
Education
knowledge tests. Make sure you have the most recent edition This work isiscopyright.
Permission hereby givenApartto from
copy RACV,Plus
Bikes WIMA, DECA, HART, Stay
of this handbook and any update information sheets relating usesdistribute
and permittedpartsunder ofthe
thisCopyright
work Upright, MTA, Armstrongs Driver
Act 1968, Project Management - VicRoads
to motorcycles. The Road to Solo Driving has details of road (within thenolimitations
part may be reproduced,
specified in the Education, VicRoads
in whole orAct)in part, by purposes
any process Development - Dynamic Outcomes
laws and the VicRoads website – www.vicroads.vic.gov.au – Copyright for the of Special thanks for assistance
without Design - Way Designs
bona fidewritten
researchpermission from the
and instruction with photography:
also carries information on laws and any changes. General Manager,
provided such copies Registration
are made and
Writer - Peter Thoeming
HART (Honda)
Photography - Michael McLeod
Licensing,free
available VicRoads.
of charge.
1171).
If you are in doubt, contact VicRoads (Tel: 13 11 71). National Library of Australia
Armstrongs Driver Education
Permission is hereby given to copy Bikes Plus
Further help in developing your riding skills cataloguing-in-publication
and distribute parts of thisdata: work
Project Management - VicRoads
(within the
Victorian limitations
rider handbook specified
2004. in the Development - Dynamic Outcomes
• VicRoads Accredited Motorcycle Training and Assessment Copyright
3rd ed. Act) for the purposes of
Design - Way Designs
Service Providers (Accredited Motorcycle Trainers) can bona fideindex.
Includes research and instruction
Writer - Peter Thoeming
provide advice and help get you started – see page 86 for provided such
ISBN 0 7311 9118 8.copies are made
Photography - Michael McLeod
available
1. free of charge.
Motorcycling - Victoria -
details. Most provide advanced rider training courses as National Library
Examinations, of Australia
questions, etc.
well as those for beginners. cataloguing-in-publication
2. Traffic safety - Victoria -data:
Examinations,
Victorian rider questions,
handbook etc. 2004.
• Discover Safe Riding is designed to help you to build I. Roads
3rd ed. Corporation (Vic.). II. Title.
experience and skills once you get on the road. This 629.2847509945
Includes index.
booklet is available from VicRoads Customer Service ISBN 0 7311 9118 8.
Centres (see page 84), the VicRoads Bookshop (Tel: 9854 1. Motorcycling - Victoria -
2049 or 9854 2782) or Accredited Motorcycle Trainers Examinations, questions, etc.
2. Traffic safety - Victoria -
(see page 86). Examinations, questions, etc.
I. Roads Corporation (Vic.). II. Title.
629.2847509945

ii
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Contents
Using this Handbook 2
A. Getting Ready 5
1 How do I get a Victorian motorcycle licence? 6
2 The law for motorcyclists 8
3 Beware of….. 12
B. On the Road 17
4 What to wear 18
5 What to ride 24
6 Starting out 28
7 Looking ahead and being seen 36
C. Staying Alive 45
8 Keep away from trouble 46
9 Keep a grip 54
10 Riding at night 58
11 Loading up 62
12 Riding in a group 66
13 Look after your bike 70
D. Here’s Trouble 73
14 What is an emergency? 74
15 Bike security 82
VicRoads Customer Service Centres 84
Accredited Motorcycle Training and Assessment Service Providers 86
Index 89

CONTENTS 1
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Using this Handbook

This handbook has been produced to help you to become a
competent, safe motorcycle rider. It is based on an approach
called defensive riding.
Anyone going for a Victorian motorcycle learner permit or
Victorian motorcycle licence will find it valuable. So will
anyone who wants to be up to date with roadcraft and
defensive riding – with survival. Whether you are new to
motorcycling or coming back after a break, this book is for
you.
The handbook is divided into chapters covering different
aspects of riding. You should read them all, and try the
‘Check your understanding’ questions which follow. The
questions let you: It takes years of training and continuing practice to learn all
the skills and correct riding techniques. As a young or
• review the information inexperienced rider, you are almost three times more likely to
• check your understanding be involved in a crash than an experienced rider.
• become familiar with the style of questions in the In the meantime, this book can be a great help.
Motorcycle Learner Permit Knowledge Test. When it says ‘must’ in this handbook, it is telling you
Road safety is important to all road users, but it is especially something that a law specifically requires you to do. When it
important to motorcyclists. In a crash you have less is advice, it says ‘should’.
protection than a driver. In 2007, motorcyclists accounted for When it says ‘bike’ this means any motorcycle (road or trail)
14% of all road deaths in Victoria, although they accounted for or motor scooter. If it is talking about a specific kind of bike
less than 1% of travel on Victoria roads. (say one with a sidecar) it will use more specific terms.
Please keep in mind that getting your licence, even after all Otherwise, it will simply say ‘bike’. When it says ‘rider’ it
the training, does not necessarily make you a competent and means motorcycle or motor scooter rider.
safe rider. Learning to ride in a safe environment, away from
the actual road, can give you skills, but it is not the same as
being out there in the real world with traffic and
unpredictable road conditions.

2 USING THIS HANDBOOK

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Special note - oral tests

If you have trouble reading or writing, an oral test can be
arranged. The staff at VicRoads or at an Accredited
Motorcycle Training and Assessment Service Provider
(Accredited Motorcycle Trainer) can also get an interpreter
for you if you have trouble with English. Tell them when you
are booking your test if you need an oral test or an
interpreter. The location of VicRoads Customer Service
Centres and Accredited Motorcycle Trainers can be found on
pages 84 and 86.

Further information
More information, including several other booklets, is
available from VicRoads - Tel: 13 11 71 or online at:
www.vicroads.vic.gov.au
Other helpful publications available include:
Road to Solo Driving – handbook for new drivers/riders
Discover Safe Riding – useful practice manual for new and
returning riders
The Right Line and The Right Stuff – small, portable and
full of information and riding hints.
More road safety information is available from:
• arrive alive! – www.arrivealive.vic.gov.au
• TAC Motorcycling – www.spokes.com.au
• TAC – www.tacsafety.com.au
• Saferoads – www.mav.asn.au/saferoads

USING THIS HANDBOOK 3

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4
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section
A Getting Ready
Basic things you need to know and do
before getting on a bike
You may be beginning to ride a bike for the
first time, or returning to riding after a
break. Either way you need to know about
getting a motorcycle learner permit and
licence and the laws that apply to newly
licensed riders. You also need to know
about the hazards for riders and ways you
can reduce the risks. Remember it will take
time to build your skills and experience.

5
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chapter
How do I get a Victorian
1 motorcycle licence?
The licensing process is designed to make sure
that you are a competent and safer rider by the
time you get your licence. The various stages,
training and tests are designed to give you basic
information and skills, but always remember that
there is nothing like experience to make riding
safer.
Tests must be completed on a two-wheeled bike. Motor
trikes and bikes with sidecars are not acceptable for
testing purposes.
The stages of the licensing process are simple. You must
be at least 18 years of age and have held your motorcycle
learner permit for at least 3 consecutive months.
You then:
• book your motorcycle licence test
• provide evidence of identity
• take the test and if you pass, pay for the licence
• receive your motorcycle licence.

To find out more about training in your

local area, see the list of Accredited
Motorcycle Trainers on page 86 or
phone VicRoads on 13 11 71.

6 CHAPTER 1 – HOW DO I GET A VICTORIAN MOTORCYCLE LICENCE?

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Motorcycle learner permit

You can apply for a motorcycle learner permit if you are at
least 18 years old. The permit is valid for 15 months. You
must hold a permit for at least 3 consecutive months before
attempting the Motorcycle Licence Test and:
• Unless you already have an Australian or New Zealand car
learner permit or driver licence, you must also pass the
Car Learner Permit Knowledge Test to check your
understanding of road law. This test consists of 32 multiple Motorcycle licence
choice questions based on the Road to Solo Driving
handbook, to test your knowledge of road law and road You can apply for a licence if you are at least 18 years old and
safety. Overseas permit or licence holders should contact hold a current Victorian or interstate motorcycle learner
VicRoads to find out test requirements. permit for at least 3 consecutive months. Overseas motorcycle
learner permits are not recognised. To obtain a licence:
• You must pass an eyesight test and a Riding Skill Test. As
you will be allowed to ride on the road on your own once • You must pass a Practical Riding Test on a specifically
you have the permit, it is essential that you can see designed off-street range to assess your riding skills.
properly and have enough riding skills to control a • Unless you already have a driver licence, you must pass a
motorcycle. Hazard Perception Test to see how safely you respond to
• You must also pass the Motorcycle Learner Permit traffic situations.
Knowledge Test, based on this handbook. The test consists It is strongly recommended that you do some training while
of 32 multiple choice questions on safe riding and on the you are preparing for your motorcycle licence. Training will
law specific to motorcycles. The questions in the ‘Check make you a much more competent and safer rider, and help
your understanding’ sections of this handbook are similar you with the test.
to the actual test questions, but they are not the same.

If you already hold an Australian car learner permit or driver licence which is subject to a
condition such as an alcohol interlock condition, your motorcycle learner permit or licence may be
issued subject to that condition. To understand your obligations, you should seek legal advice.

CHAPTER 1 – HOW DO I GET A VICTORIAN MOTORCYCLE LICENCE? 7

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chapter
The law for motorcyclists
2 Bike riders must obey the same road laws as
drivers. The Road to Solo Driving handbook has
general road law information for all road users.
There are also some laws that are only for learners
or newly licensed riders.

What’s the law while I’m

learning?
While holding a motorcycle learner
permit, you must:
• display an ‘L’ plate on the rear of the
motorcycle
• only ride a bike which is approved
under the Learner Approved
Motorcycle Scheme (LAMS)
• not carry a pillion passenger
• ride with a zero blood alcohol
concentration (BAC)
• not ride a bike towing a trailer.

8 CHAPTER 2 - THE LAW FOR MOTORCYCLISTS

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Note that the Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme (LAMS)

requirement and pillion passenger restriction do not apply if
you ride a motor trike.

Helmets
Riders and their passengers must wear helmets approved to
Australian Standard AS1698 or AS/NZS1698, and these must
be securely fitted and fastened on their heads. The helmets
must have a sticker indicating AS1698 or AS/NZS1698
approval.

What’s the law for probationary Parking

In Victoria you may legally park your bike on the footpath
and newly licensed riders? (unless otherwise signed) as long as you do not obstruct
As a probationar y rider you must: pedestrians, delivery vehicles, public transport users or
parked cars.
• display a ‘P’ plate on the rear of the motorcycle
Do not park:
• ride with a zero blood alcohol concentration (BAC)
• carry your licence at all times when riding • near or on service access points such as Telstra pit covers
and post boxes
• only ride a bike which is approved under the Learner
Approved Motorcycle Scheme (LAMS) until you have held • too close to the building line, as this can create an
a motorcycle licence for at least 12 months obstruction for vision impaired pedestrians.

• not carry a pillion passenger until you have held a VicRoads has a useful pamphlet called Guidelines for Parking
motorcycle licence for at least 12 months Motorcycles on Footpaths, which provides further information.

All newly licensed riders, even those with a full car licence Hook turns
must fulfill the zero BAC, the Learner Approved Motorcycle
Scheme (LAMS) and the passenger restriction requirements When turning right bikes must make hook turns where
for the minimum period of 12 months after the issue of the these are indicated, and must make them exactly as cars do.
motorcycle licence. See Road to Solo Driving for a description of hook turns.

CHAPTER 2 - THE LAW FOR MOTORCYCLISTS 9

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Lane splitting Lane splitting and restricted lanes

Avoid lane splitting, which is riding between lines of moving
vehicles. It is illegal and can be dangerous to riders,
especially for inexperienced riders.
You must not ride your motorcycle in tram lanes, bus lanes,
bicycle lanes or other lanes designated for special vehicles.
Exceptions permitted under the road rules are when entering
or leaving the road or where you otherwise have to cross the
lane, or where signs indicate you may do so. See the Road to
Solo Driving for more details.

Pillion passenger
Only one pillion passenger may be carried; they must be
provided with footpegs and their feet must reach these
footpegs. A pillion passenger must sit astride the motorcycle
and behind the rider, face forward and keep both feet on the
footpegs.

Vehicle Impoundment
The vehicle impoundment laws (also known as hoon laws)
apply to riders of motorcycles. Your motorcycle may be
impounded by the police if you are detected committing an
offence such as excessive speeding, improper use of a motor
vehicle (for example burnouts), or driving while disqualified.

Crash management
Your responsibilities if you are involved in a crash are exactly
the same as for a driver. For full details, see Road to Solo
Lane splitting is illegal and can be dangerous for you as a rider. Driving. This booklet also has a lot of other information about
road laws.
10 CHAPTER 2 - THE LAW FOR MOTORCYCLISTS
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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the
bottom of this page.

1. You must not carry a pillion passenger until you have

held your motorcycle licence for:
A 6 months
B 12 months
C 18 months

2. Angela holds both probationary car and probationary

motorcycle licences. When riding her motorcycle she:
A should display a ‘P’ plate on the rear of her
motorcycle
B does not need to display a ‘P’ plate
C must display a ‘P’ plate on the front and rear
of her motorcycle

3. Steve holds a probationary licence. He may legally

ride his bike if:
A he has not had a drink for a while
B he has no alcohol in his blood, that is his
Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) is zero
C he has a BAC below .05

ANSWERS 1B 2A 3B

CHAPTER 2 - THE LAW FOR MOTORCYCLISTS 11

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chapter
Beware of...
3 There are more hazards out on the road than you
can imagine, so it makes sense to try to be ready
for anything. This applies to a beginner or
someone coming back to motorcycling after a
break. The number of vehicles on the road and the
speeds at which they can travel have increased
significantly, and motorcycles are different too.
Build up your skills gradually – by getting used to riding
in daylight, for example, before tackling night riding. You
are almost twice as likely to have a crash in your first 8
months on the road, and it takes some time for the odds
to get much better.
In the meantime, give yourself an extra margin of safety
by slowing down, giving yourself more space on the road
and thinking well ahead. Ride with the right attitude –
don’t be overconfident, impatient or in the wrong mood
to ride, such as when you are angry or upset.
Experience will teach you to identify potential dangers,
work out just how dangerous they are and how best to
cope with them. Parts C and D of this handbook contain
more about hazards and how to detect and handle them.
But there are some things that stay dangerous no matter
how much experience you have.

12 CHAPTER 3 – BEWARE OF...

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Alcohol Other drugs or medical conditions

The law says that road users with a full licence must have a Any kind of drug, legal or illegal, could make you drowsy,
Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) below .05g/100ml. Riders dizzy, weak or otherwise less capable of riding a motorcycle.
holding a learner permit, a probationary licence or bike That is why it is an offence to ride while impaired by a drug.
licence for less than 12 months must have a zero BAC. There Check with a pharmacist or doctor to see if the drugs you are
is a good reason for these restrictions. taking are likely to affect your riding. Combining drugs with
Alcohol combined with riding is dangerous because it: alcohol or other drugs can be especially dangerous.
• affects your judgement and reduces your ability to judge Cannabis is a major concern because it may reduce riding
risks including distance and your own and other vehicles’ skills, cause lapses in attention and reduce your ability to
speed process information.
• affects your sense of balance Police may undertake roadside saliva testing of drivers and
• gives you a false sense of confidence, which may riders to detect the presence of speed or Ice
encourage you to take risks (methamphetaimine), cannabis (THC) and ecstacy (MDMA).
Driving with these drugs in the blood or saliva is an offence
• makes it difficult to concentrate and do more than one and penalties (including licence loss) will apply.
thing at a time – as well as possibly not being in control of
your bike, you may simply not see hazards, or not react to If you have a medical condition which might affect your
them properly ability to ride, such as diabetes or epilepsy, you must check
with VicRoads whether you are eligible for a permit or
• slows your reaction time, making you more likely to crash. licence. If you develop such a condition once you have a
If you are a drink driving offender and have been disqualified permit or licence you must advise VicRoads.
from driving then, after completing your disqualification, it is
likely that when you get your licence or permit back, you will
need to have an alcohol interlock fitted to your motorcycle.
An alcohol interlock prevents the motorcycle starting if the
rider has been drinking alcohol.

If in doubt about any

kind of drug you’ve
taken, don’t ride.

CHAPTER 3 – BEWARE OF... 13

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Tiredness Relying on other road users for

Riding a motorcycle is harder and more physically tiring than your safety
driving a car. It can tire you more quickly. Tiredness, or
Relying on other road users for your safety can be a major
fatigue, makes it more difficult for you to make decisions,
hazard. Always remember that you are responsible for your
especially quick decisions. Being tired affects concentration,
own safety. Don’t ever rely on other road users to look after
balance and vision. Riding smoothly, which is the safest way
you. Even if you are wearing brightly coloured clothing and
to ride, is almost impossible when you are tired.
making eye contact, do not assume that they have seen you.
Make your riding less tiring by:
• protecting yourself from the weather with proper clothing -
heat and dehydration will tire you just as surely as cold and
rain, and full protective clothing will help prevent
dehydration
• avoiding alcohol and drugs
• planning regular, frequent stops into your trip
• being well rested before you start
• not riding during those times when you would normally
be asleep.

Motorcycling is a complex activity that

constantly challenges you. You may not be
able to meet the challenge if you’re not fully
alert. Avoid riding when you are tired.

14 CHAPTER 3 – BEWARE OF...

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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the 3. Here are three types of drugs which people
bottom of this page. sometimes take: alcohol, medicines prescribed by
a doctor and medicines sold by a chemist.
1. You are planning a trip to Adelaide, but you have a cold. Which drug may affect your riding?
You want to take medication. You should A Only alcohol
A take some medicine to make you feel B Only medicines given to you by your doctor
better
C All three types
B ask your doctor or pharmacist whether the
cold medicine will make you sleepy or
drowsy
C try to get there as quickly as possible so
that you can rest when you arrive

2. You are planning to ride to Sydney from Melbourne.

It is a perfect summer’s day with the
temperature around 25 degrees Celsius.
You should plan to:
A get there in eight hours because the conditions
are so good
B get there with only one stop because the
conditions are so good
C make regular, frequent stops to keep yourself
alert

ANSWERS 1B 2C 3C

CHAPTER 3 – BEWARE OF... 15

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16
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section
B On the Road
Making choices and staying in control
One of the most valuable resources you
have as a beginner rider, or as someone
coming back to riding, is the knowledge
and experience of other motorcyclists.
Use it. Ask around when you are
considering buying a bike, clothing or
accessories. Ask about anything you’re not
sure of. But always make sure you balance
advice; read up on the subject too, and
ask more than one person. Don’t just
collect the prejudices of others.
Accredited Motorcycle Trainers can provide
good advice as well as training.

17
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chapter
What to wear
4 Wearing the right gear is vital to your safety and
comfort – if you aren’t comfortable, you aren’t
safe, either. But always remember that even the
best safety equipment won’t protect you from
everything. Ride just as carefully as you would if
you were out there without it!

Helmet
By law, every rider and passenger, including pillion and
sidecar passengers, must wear a helmet that is certified
to meet the Australian Standard. The helmet must be
securely fitted and fastened on your head. Don’t
underrate this.
A helmet will reduce the chance of serious head injury
if you crash, and may well keep you alive.
Your helmet must carry the AS1698 or AS/NZS1698
mark. Look for this when you buy a helmet and do not
remove it. If your helmet does not have the sticker, you
could be fined.
Buy a new helmet that fits snugly and securely when
done up. Helmet interiors are designed to mould to one
Clean your helmet with mild soap and water. Don’t use
head shape; anyone else wearing that helmet will have
solvents like petrol or methylated spirits, because these
limited protection. Although it may not be noticeable,
can attack the material of the helmet. For the same
reason, avoid painting your helmet or applying stickers.

18 CHAPTER 4 – WHAT TO WEAR

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used helmets may also be damaged.

Even the best helmets are designed to take only one impact.
You will not necessarily be able to see damage, so buy a new
CHECKLIST
helmet. Even dropping a helmet on the ground can damage it. Your helmet must:
Helmets deteriorate with use and even in storage. Look for • carry the AS1698 or AS/NZS1698 mark
wear such as loose or compressed padding and exposed
metal, and damage like cracks and frayed straps. A new • fit snugly and securely when done up.
helmet only costs money, whereas an old one could result in
brain damage.
Your helmet should:
Get a helmet that can be easily seen. If other road users can
• be bought new
see you, even in poor light or bad weather, they can avoid
you. But don’t ever rely on others seeing you! The • be in good condition
responsibility for staying out of trouble is yours. • be checked regularly
• be easily seen
• be cleaned according to the manufacturer’s
instructions
• be replaced if it has received a hard knock.

CHAPTER 4 – WHAT TO WEAR 19

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Eye and face protection Clothing

Your face and especially your eyes need protection from the Motorcycle clothing is designed to protect you from injury,
wind, dust, rain, insects and stones. Visors or goggles (worn and should help you to be seen. It should also be comfortable
with some helmets like the ones used for dirt bikes) give this and keep you warm.
protection. If you wear sunglasses instead, make sure that Being seen is an obvious aid to safety. To protect you from
they really do protect your eyes and that they are impact injury, motorcycle clothing will have padding and be made of
resistant. Tinted eye protection must not be worn at night special abrasion-resistant material. Leather probably still
because it makes it difficult for you to see properly. Scratches offers the best abrasion protection, but may not be suitable in
on the surface of any eye protection can blur and distort light hot, wet or cold conditions. Synthetic textile-based jackets and
at night and should be replaced. pants are now available and many of them are highly
effective.
Good gear will be designed to stay comfortable even after
some time on the bike, and will not balloon out or flap.
Wet weather gear will keep you dry, and should also be
CHECKLIST brightly coloured because visibility may be poor when you
are wearing it.
Your visor must meet Australian Standard AS1609.
There is no Australian Standard for goggles or Proper motorcycle clothing will also be warm or offer
sunglasses specific to motorcycle use, but any eye ventilation, depending on the season. All of these things are
protection you use should: important because discomfort, heat and cold will reduce your
concentration, slow your reflexes and make you less able to
• be free of scratches
control your bike properly. Several manufacturers now offer
• be impact resistant well-vented clothing for summer.
• not restrict your vision to either side For all of these reasons it is worth buying proper motorcycle
• be fastened securely so that it does not rattle or clothing. Use your information sources – talk to experienced
blow off. riders, read up on different items of clothing and ask
questions in bike shops.

20 CHAPTER 4 – WHAT TO WEAR

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Warm weather riding gear

comes in a range of Wet weather riding gear
styles. It includes pants includes suits like this,
such as these with plenty that you wear over the
of protection, but that top of your normal
look the same as jeans. riding gear.

Choose the right full protective gear to suit the weather conditions.

CHAPTER 4 – WHAT TO WEAR 21

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Checklist
Jackets and pants (or one-piece suits) should:
• be equipped with protectors at elbows and knees,
and preferably spine, hips, shoulders and chest as
well
• cover your arms and legs completely, even in hot
weather
• fit snugly at neck, wrists, ankles and waist when
you are riding
• keep you comfortable
• be brightly coloured.

Leather riding suit.

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CHECKLIST
Boots should:
• be designed for motorcycle riding and be made of
strong leather or a strong synthetic material with
reinforcements
• cover your ankles, preferably with some kind of
reinforcement
• have strong non-slip soles
• not have rings, laces, other bits sticking out or
elastic sides – they could slip off or catch on the
motorcycle and be pulled off in a crash, leaving
your feet unprotected.

CHECKLIST
Gloves or gauntlets should:
• be designed for motorcycle riding, with fingers that
allow you to use the bike’s controls easily and give
you a good, comfortable grip
• be made of strong leather or a high-quality synthetic
material
• fit snugly and securely (especially around the wrists)
to prevent them coming off in a crash.

CHAPTER 4 – WHAT TO WEAR 23

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chapter
What to ride
5 Choosing a motorcycle is one of the most
enjoyable things a rider does, and it can have a
major impact on how much you enjoy your riding
and how safe you are. If you use your information
sources – talk to experienced riders, read up on
different bikes and ask questions in bike shops –
you’re most likely to end up with the best choice
for you. One of the best sources of information is
your Accredited Motorcycle Trainer.

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Types of bikes

Road bikes and trikes are designed to Scooters are small two-wheelers, Road/trail bikes range from small and
travel on sealed surfaces and have usually with a lot of bodywork and the light machines right up to huge, heavy
appropriate road tyres. engine mounted at the back on the adventure tourers.
swingarm.

There are also off-road bikes that are designed for recreational riding, such as motocross and
track racing. Others in this class are ag (agricultural) bikes, intended for farm use, and
recreational four-wheelers. Usually none of them can be registered for on-road use.

CHAPTER 5 – WHAT TO RIDE 25

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Which bike is right for you? Riding

You must only ride a bike which is approved under the off-road
Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme (LAMS) whilst you
If you go riding off-
hold a motorcycle learner permit and until you have held a
road (often called
motorcycle licence for a minimum period of 12 months.
dirt riding) in places
You should feel comfortable and in control while handling the such as State
bike, which means it should not be too tall or too heavy for Forests, State Parks
you. and National Parks
there are some
Riding someone else’s bike things you need to
remember.
It can be risky to ride a borrowed or rented bike. You will be
• Your bike must be registered (full or recreation
unfamiliar with its controls and responses, and even if it is the
registration) and roadworthy, and you must hold an
same model as your own, it may not be in good mechanical
appropriate permit or licence.
condition. Ideally you should get as much experience on your
own bike, before attempting to ride a borrowed or rented • You must wear an approved helmet, and you should wear
bike. If in doubt, don’t ride an unfamiliar bike. However, if protective clothing. Bike shops stock this as ‘enduro’ or
riding an unfamiliar bike you should: ‘motocross’ (MX) gear.
• familiarise yourself with the controls • In Victoria, bikes with recreation registration may only be
ridden on local roads outside built-up areas. Built-up areas
• make all the same safety checks you would make with
are defined by speed zones of less than 100 km/h. They
your own bike
must not be ridden on freeways and arterial roads as
• ride more cautiously than you would on your own bike. specified in the Road Management Act 2004.
• If you are riding a bike with recreation registration, you
must not carry any load (including panniers) or a pillion
passenger.
• If you go off the beaten track, you should advise someone
reliable where you are going and when you expect to
return.

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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the 3. The main reason for wearing clothing designed for
bottom of this page. motorcycling is that it:
A keeps you warm
1. Jane sees a range of secondhand helmets for sale at a B helps protect you in a fall
garage sale. They all look new and some are in bright C both of the above
colours. She should:
A choose the one with the brightest colour and a
full visor 4. Shane has just passed his motorcycle learner permit
and has the chance to ride his friend’s new motorcycle.
B not buy a secondhand helmet as she may be Before he rides he should:
unable to see any damage to it
A check that the fuel tap is on reserve
C not buy a secondhand helmet without speaking to
the previous owner B reconsider and choose not to ride an unfamiliar bike
C ride with his friend as a pillion passenger
2. The best types of foot protection for riding a
motorcycle are:
A sandals
B runners or track shoes
C leather boots designed for motorcycle riding

ANSWERS 1B 2C 3C 4B

CHAPTER 5 – WHAT TO RIDE 27

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chapter
Starting out
6 No matter what bike you choose to ride it needs
to be set up to suit you. Making the right
adjustments from the start will not only make your
bike more comfortable to ride, it will also improve
your ability to control the bike. In addition to these
adjustments there are a number of important
checks to make every time before you ride.

28 CHAPTER 6 – STARTING OUT

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A simple guide to the parts of a bike

throttle handlebars handlebar clamps

shock absorber

front brake lever

– the clutch lever is
on the left side

rear brake

swingarm chain footpeg front brake

rear brake pedal
- the gearshift lever
Check the owner’s manual for is on the left side
information about your bike.

CHAPTER 6 – STARTING OUT 29

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Setting up for yourself You need to be

and your bike comfortable, but
in good control
You and your bike are partners out there on the road, and like of the bike.
any partners you should make sure that you can get along.
This will require a bit of adjustment from each of you. Some
of these comments will not apply to scooters, because they
are built differently.

Personalise your bike

• Some bikes allow you to adjust the height of the seat. Set it
so your feet are comfortably flat on the ground when you
are sitting on the bike.
• Adjust the gear and rear brake levers up or down so that
they are within comfortable reach of your feet. Remember
that you need to move the gear lever up and down, not just
down like the brake lever. If you are not sure how to do
this, ask your Accredited Motorcycle Trainer or bike shop
for advice.
• If the handlebars are adjustable, set them so they are
comfortable. If you can't get them comfortable, consider
replacing them or changing the clamps that hold them.
• If your bike has adjustable clutch and front brake levers,
set them so that they are in easy reach of your fingers.

Hold the
handgrips firmly
and keep your
wrists low with the
knuckles at the
highest point.

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Set yourself up Checks to make before each ride

• Your posture should be comfortable while allowing good
control of the bike. Keep your head up and your line of You should check your bike before each ride. Your safety
sight level with the road. Your arms should not be feeling begins with your machine.
too much strain from holding up your body.
Controls
• Sit close enough to the handlebars so you can reach them
• Brakes should work smoothly. The front and rear brakes
with your arms slightly bent. You should be able to turn
should each stop the bike when fully applied separately.
the bars without stretching.
• Clutch and throttle should work smoothly and the throttle
• Hold the handgrips firmly and keep your wrists low with
should snap shut when you let it go.
the knuckles at the highest point. This gives you good
control of the throttle while making it easy to reach the • Make sure cables are lubricated and there are no visible
clutch and brake levers. kinks or broken strands.
• To maintain posture while braking and absorb shocks from
the front end of the bike, your elbows should be slightly
Do a safety check before each ride.
bent and tucked in.
• Grasp the fuel tank firmly with your knees to balance
the bike and keep control when turning, slowing or
speeding up.
• Keep your feet on the footpegs while the bike is moving,
ready to use the foot controls.

Your Accredited Motorcycle Trainer is the best person to

teach you the basics of starting off, using the gears,
braking, cornering and turning. If you are uncertain
about anything, make sure you ask.

CHAPTER 6 – STARTING OUT 31

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Tyres and chain • Check that the chain (if the bike has one) is lubricated and
• Check tyre pressures when the tyres are cold. Correct the tension adjusted correctly. The owner’s manual will
pressures should be listed on a sticker on the bike have details of how to do this.
(possibly on the swingarm) and in the owner’s manual.
Mirrors
• Check that the tread depth is more than 2mm all over the
• Clean and adjust the mirrors before you start. It is
tyre tread. Less than this is illegal and very dangerous.
dangerous to do this when you are moving.
The sidewalls of the tyres should be free of cracks or
bumps. • You should be able to see just past your body, and as much
as possible of the traffic next to you and behind you.
• Make sure that the tyre tread is free of cuts, nails or
cracks.

Adjust your mirrors so you can see as much as

possible of the traffic next to you and behind.

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Lights & signals

• Check that all lights and indicators are clean and in CHECKLIST
working order. Indicators must flash and be bright
enough to be seen. The headlight must be adjusted Before you ride each time check:
properly so that it is not too high or too low. Both low and • brakes are working
high beams must work. Check that the tail light works,
and that the brake light works when you apply the hand • clutch and throttle are working smoothly
and foot brakes. • cables are lubricated
• Test the horn. • tyre pressures are correct and look for tyre wear
• chain is lubricated and adjusted
Fuel & oil
• lights, indicators and horn are working
• Check the fuel level and don’t ride with the fuel tap on
reserve until it is necessary. • mirrors are clean and adjusted
• Check the oil level. The engine needs oil and could seize if • there is enough fuel and oil
the level drops too far. This will do damage to the engine • you are dressed in the right gear
and could lead to a crash.
• you are fit to ride
Yourself! • your mood and attitude is right to ride safely.
• Check that you are dressed safely and properly (see
Chapter 4).
• Make sure you are fit to ride and not tired (fatigued) or
impaired by alcohol or drugs (see Chapter 3).
• Make sure you are in the mood and have the right
attitude. Riding while angry or in any other high emotional
state could make you careless or aggressive.

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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the
bottom of this page.

1. Glenn has just taken delivery of a new motorcycle.

He should:
A immediately take it out for a run on the open road to
see how it goes
B adjust the controls and, if possible, handlebars and
seat to suit himself
C take all his friends on rides to show them how much
fun motorcycling is

2. Anne is trying to show her sister how to sit on the

motorcycle in the correct position. She should sit:
A at the back of the seat with her arms straight so
that she can turn quickly
B close to the handlebars so she can bend over the
front of the bike and see the road ahead more
clearly
C close enough to the handlebars to reach them with
her arms slightly bent so she can turn without
having to stretch

ANSWERS 1B 2C

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CHAPTER 6 – STARTING OUT 35

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chapter
Looking ahead and being seen
7 Being visible is not a guarantee of safety on the
road, but it is the beginning of being safer. As a
motorcyclist you need to do as much as you can
to help make yourself be seen, but do not assume
that being seen is enough. You need to be able to
see clearly around you and to anticipate – think
ahead and be ready to respond before things
happen. Your safety is in your own hands at all
times.
Remember that you are sharing the road with
others – drivers, riders, pedestrians, cyclists,
trucks, buses and trams. So ride cooperatively in
traffic, and help everyone get to where they are
going safely.

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Looking ahead
A very large part of road safety is anticipation – being ready
to respond to things before they happen. That’s not as hard as
it sounds; in fact, it’s one of the things you learn as you go
along. People who have been riding for a while become very
good at it, which is one reason why they’re usually safer.
You can help yourself with this by looking ahead. Here are a
few examples:
• When riding around a corner, try to position yourself on
the road so you can see through the corner.
• Lean with your bike while you
turn, keeping your head up and
line of sight level with the road.
Turn your head and look where
you want to go and ride smoothly.
• When pulling out from the kerb,
position your bike at an angle so
you can see the traffic in both
directions.
Position yourself so
• If you are making a U-turn, have that you can see
a clear view of traffic in both through the corner.
directions.
• At intersections, don’t count on other vehicles giving you
the right of way. Approach intersections slowly and
carefully.
• Watch the road ahead by looking through or over the top
of other vehicles.
At the roadside, angle your
motorcycle to see both ways.

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Good positioning • When riding on a multi-lane road, avoid the centre lane
unless there is a median strip, otherwise you will have to
Place yourself on the road where you can see and be seen. watch out for traffic going in both directions. Ride in the
• Ride in the right-hand wheel track of the road, where you right-hand wheel track when travelling in the left lane and
can be seen in both the rear vision mirror and the external the left-hand wheel track if you are riding in the right lane.
mirror of the car in front of you. You can also see vehicles • When overtaking on a multi lane road where there is no
coming the other way, and be seen by them. Normally the median strip with traffic in both directions maximise the
road surface will be best here as well, without the oil slick distance from other vehicles. Ride in the centre of the lane
that can form in the centre of the lane or the broken but watch out for oil slicks.
pavement and loose gravel at the edge of the road.
Keep a safe distance
Avoid riding in blind spots

Try to avoid riding

in the centre of
the lane and be
aware of driver’s Try to maximise the
blind spots. distance from other
vehicles. However, watch
out for oil slicks if riding
in the centre of a lane.

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Approaching an intersection Driver’s line of sight

t
igh
fs
eo

Dr
iv
lin

er
r's

's
lin
ive

eo
Dr

fs
igh
t
Be aware of the
driver’s line of sight.
Anticipate blind
spots and move to
where the driver can
see you.

BLIND When approaching an

SPOT intersection, be aware
of a driver’s line of
sight so you can be BLIND
seen. The rider here SPOT
should take care, as
the driver of the blue
car may not be able to
see him approaching.

CHAPTER 7 – LOOKING AHEAD AND BEING SEEN 39

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Place yourself where you are as Headlight

safe as possible Riding with your headlight on during the day can greatly
enhance your chances of being seen, especially on dull days,
• By placing yourself where you can see and be seen, you
but don’t rely on the headlight alone. If you have your
are ‘claiming’ the lane and discouraging drivers from
headlight on during the day, always use low beam.
trying to share it. Sharing lanes is dangerous.
If you are riding with your high beam on at night, you must
• Don’t ride in the blind spots that all cars have behind and
switch to low beam when an approaching vehicle is within 200
beside them. Try to ride where you can see the driver’s
metres or when the other vehicle’s headlight dips, whichever
eyes in the car’s mirror – that means the driver can see
is sooner. When riding 200 metres or less behind another
you too.
vehicle you must also dip your headlight. Use common
• Most crashes between a bike and a car happen at sense, and make sure you don’t dazzle others with your
intersections, so place yourself where you can be seen and headlight. See Chapter 10 for more information on riding at
have as much room as possible to move. night.
• Slow down when there are cars about at intersections.
Not all the drivers may be able to see you. Indicators and brake lights
• Try to make eye contact with drivers coming in the Indicators and brake lights remind other road users that you
opposite direction, to make sure they know you are there – are there and tell them what you are about to do. They need
but don’t rely on that! Be ready to stop or take evasive to be able to look ahead just as much as you do, and this way
action. you give them the information they need.
Before you turn, change lanes or merge you must use your
indicators, even if you can’t see another vehicle. Just because
you don’t see another vehicle, it does not mean it isn’t there.
Send clear messages to the other traffic. Turn your indicator
off when it is not needed. If you leave it on after you’ve made
the turn you are giving the wrong message, which could be
dangerous.
You can also make yourself more obvious to following traffic
by braking gently and flashing your brake light, so they know
that you are about to slow down.

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Accurate signals Sound your horn

Sound your horn as a warning in case of danger. It may let
other road users who have not seen you know that you are
there. Never rely on the horn though, because it may not be
heard. Be ready to get out of the way of the danger yourself.

Be prepared to react

Giving
the wrong Don’t rely on your
signals horn to warn other
could lead drivers. Always be
to danger. prepared to react.

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Be bright…
Consider wearing a brightly coloured or reflective helmet and
clothing. Yellow, orange and red are colours which stand out
against most backgrounds. Reflective tape on your clothing or
your bike works well at night, and a reflective vest is more
noticeable to drivers behind you than a tail light.

…but don’t rely on drivers

seeing you
No matter how visible you are on the road, there may still be
drivers who simply don’t see you, or who don’t obey the road
rules. You need to keep an eye out for these drivers and be
ready to take care of yourself.

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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the 3. At an intersection you should:
bottom of this page. A change lanes to get past other vehicles
B choose a lane position which will enable you to be
1. Tom is about to pull out from the kerb to join the traffic seen by other drivers
flow. He should: C sound your horn and then speed through as
A accelerate as quickly as possible so that he is quickly as possible
going faster than the traffic, and it can’t
catch him
B put on his indicator because that gives him right
of way
C make sure he positions the bike so he can see
the traffic in both directions before pulling out

2. The three best ways to make yourself more visible are:

A ride with your headlight on, ride where you can be
seen and wear bright clothing
B sound your horn, keep to the left of the road and
flash your headlight
C all of the above

ANSWERS 1C 2A 3B

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44
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section
C Staying Alive
Anticipation and skill make riding safer
and enjoyable
The one thing above all others that will
keep you safer on the road is your attitude.
You can learn as many skills as you like,
and be the most technically skilled rider
around, but you can throw it all away
because you can’t be bothered thinking
before you act. Make no mistake about it,
the road is a dangerous place, especially
on a bike. Staying alive while you are out
there is your responsibility.
You will find the VicRoads booklet, Discover
Safe Riding, a useful guide for developing
your skills.

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chapter
Keep away from trouble
8 It might sound simple, but what can’t get at you
can’t hurt you. So it makes sense to stay as far
away as possible from the things that can hurt
you on the road.

Survival space
The consequences of an error, yours or someone else’s,
can be very serious for you as a rider.
Survival space is the best protection you can have.
The more space you have around you, the more time you
have to see trouble and work out a way of avoiding it.
Of course, that only works if you keep your eyes open
and your mind alert.

In front
This is the distance between your bike and the vehicle
you are following, and you have control over it. As an
inexperienced rider, you should try to keep a 3 second
gap between you and the vehicle in front, so you:
• have more time to stop in an emergency
• are able to see much better over the top of and around
the vehicle in front of you
Keep a survival space between you • can see traffic signals, road signs and hazards well
and the traffic around you.
ahead

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• be able to avoid potholes and other road surface hazards To the side
• have more time to plan your response. Motorcyclists have an advantage over car drivers. You can
move from one side of your lane to the other to increase
You are also increasing the safety margin of the traffic
distance from other vehicles. Experienced riders move lane
behind you.
position depending on traffic – but they always check their
If you are too close, you may pay too much attention to the mirrors and do a headcheck before they do!
vehicle in front of you instead of thinking for yourself.
Consider changing your lane position when:
There are times when you will want to be even further than
• You are being overtaken or passed by another vehicle.
3 seconds away. They include:
There is no point in being closer to another vehicle than
• poor riding conditions with reduced visibility, perhaps at you need to be. Nearly a quarter of all collisions between
night or in rain and fog bikes and other vehicles involve vehicles coming from the
• on a wet or otherwise slippery road opposite or adjacent direction.
• on gravel or other unpredictable road surfaces
• on a high speed road such as a main highway – Being overtaken Being passed
almost 40% of road fatalities involving motorcyclists have
occurred where the speed limit is 100 km/h
• being behind a big vehicle like a truck or bus, which is
hard to see around.
Whatever you do, don’t tailgate (ride too close behind another
vehicle). No matter how good your brakes are, in the real
world a car can almost always out-brake an inexperienced
rider in an emergency. More importantly tailgating does not
allow for sufficient reaction time regardless of how good your
brakes are. If you tailgate it is also harder to see obstacles or
hazards on the road ahead.

Move towards the left of your lane when being overtaken or

passed.
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• You are near a large truck or bus. They can cause wind • A driver is pulling out
Watch for parked cars
blasts that affect your control. from the kerb. Some
• You are approaching an intersection. Place yourself where people don’t check
you have the best possible vision and are well clear of properly if there is
other traffic. About half of all collisions between bikes and traffic coming up, and
cars happen at intersections. If you see a car that could bikes can be hard to
turn into your path, or pull out on you, assume that it will see.
and be ready for it. • A driver is pulling out
from the kerb. The
car might do a U-turn
Beware at intersections instead of just going
straight ahead, so
approach carefully.
Be ready to swerve
or stop and to sound
your horn as a
warning.
• You find yourself
sharing a lane. You Keep clear of parked cars.
need a full lane to
yourself to be able to move safely if a problem comes up,
instead of being trapped in a small space that could
disappear. It is unsafe to ride between rows of cars even
At an intersection keep well when one or both rows are stopped. A car door could
clear of other traffic and open, a pedestrian might suddenly appear or a car might
assume cars may turn into move over and close the space you need. To stop cars from
your path. sharing your lane, position yourself so you are not riding at
the extreme edge of your lane.
• You are passing parked cars, or vehicles waiting to turn
left. Keep to the right part of the lane, away from the
possibility of doors opening or pedestrians stepping out
from between cars.

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• There is another vehicle alongside, in the next lane. Don’t

Passing a car
ride next to other vehicles if you don’t have to – they
restrict the space you have to move, and they may move
over on you at any time. Move forward or drop back until
you are in a free space.
• Vehicles are merging. At places such as freeway entrance
ramps, make room for entering traffic by changing speed
or changing lanes.

Behind
Unfortunately the driver behind you has more control over
the space between you than you do. If someone is too close
(tailgating), drop back yourself to increase the survival space
between you and the car in front. Then let the tailgater
overtake you. Such drivers are better in front of you, where
you can keep an eye on them.

Scanning
This is a vital part of being safe. Experienced riders not only
ride smoothly, they also continuously take in their
environment. Watch someone who has been riding for a few
years and you will see that they scan – their heads and eyes
move constantly. Instead of focusing on any one part of the
road they are looking up close, then far away, then to the
right and the left – they are taking in the entire road
environment without ever losing sight of the vital stretch right
in front of them.
Scanning does not necessarily mean looking directly at
everything. You can see out of the corner of your eye and as
your eyes pass over things. You can be aware of the footpath,
of the behaviour of someone in a parked car nearby and of Increase the distance between your motorcycle and the merging
vehicle.

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the driver of a car four vehicles in front of you, and you can
Beware of other traffic
do it all without being distracted. Sort the information in
order of its importance to you. It takes practice, but it’s worth
Make sure you do a
learning.
headcheck before
changing lanes or a Use the height advantage you have on a motorcycle and look
situation like this over cars in front of you. Use that advantage to see what
may occur. you’re getting into. Scanning also gives you a chance to check
the road surface well ahead for potholes, loose gravel and
other potential hazards.
Combine a glance in the mirrors and headchecks to give you
a picture of what’s happening behind you. Do this often and
quickly, because what’s behind you is part of your
environment too, but always get your eyes back to the front
quickly. Check the mirrors even when you are stopped,
because you may need to get out of someone’s way.
When merging, changing lanes or leaving the kerb always do
a headcheck of the lane next to you and your own lane, before
you move. Another vehicle may be headed for your space, and
it may not be visible in your mirrors.

A headcheck involves looking over your

shoulder to see things behind and to the side.
But remember, don’t take your eyes off the
road ahead for more than a second.

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Planning Another really good plan to stay out of trouble is to not ride
with other riders who have no respect for their own safety. If
There are two kinds of planning you can do – tactical and someone rides irresponsibly on a bike, you don’t want to be
strategic. there (or even be in the way) when something goes wrong.
Tactical planning involves looking ahead as you ride to see
potential trouble, and deciding what to do about it before you The 3 second gap
get there. It can help you to avoid emergency stops and wild
swerves. Experienced riders know that other road users Measuring a safe following distance is simple.
make mistakes and try to plan their reaction before it When the vehicle ahead of you passes a tree, a power pole or
happens. It is also good planning to be sure how you will get something similar, use that as a reference point and start
back into your lane before overtaking, and how you will counting – "one thousand and one, one thousand and two,
complete complicated turns. one thousand and three".
Strategic planning is done before you leave on your ride. If you get to the tree or other reference point before you
Consider the alternative ways of getting to where you want to finish counting, you are too close. After a while you will get
go, and pick the safest and easiest. If you are on a small, low good at estimating this gap, although you should still check
capacity bike avoid freeways; if you are on a big tourer, stay yourself every now and then.
out of heavy and congested traffic; and so on.

The 3 second gap

3 seconds

Try to keep a 3 second gap between you and the vehicle ahead.

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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the 3. When you are being followed too closely you should:
bottom of the next page. A travel faster to increase the distance between you
and the tailgater
1. The gap between your motorcycle and the vehicle B brake several times to let the driver know that
ahead, in good conditions, should be at least: you think he is driving dangerously
A 2 seconds C increase the space in front of your motorcycle so
B 3 seconds you have more time to react, if you need to

C 4 seconds
4. Scanning involves:

2. Peter is riding along a freeway in the left lane. Cars are A studying the movements of the car ahead of you
moving on to the freeway from the entrance ramp. He B looking at the road just ahead of you
should: C moving your eyes from side to side to look at the
A accelerate to get ahead of them whole road scene
B continue to travel at the same pace and position
as it is their responsibility to merge into the 5. Before changing lanes always do a final:
traffic safely
A sound of your horn
C adjust his speed to increase the distance
between his bike and the merging traffic B headcheck
C flash of your brake lights

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6. To prevent other drivers sharing your lane you should:

A ride to the right of your lane
B ride to the left of your lane
C not ride at the extreme sides of your lane

ANSWERS 1B 2C 3C 4C 5B 6C

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chapter
Keep a grip
9 A pothole or other
problems with the
Consider that the two patches of rubber
connecting you to the road surface are about the
road surface can
cause you to lose
same size as the palm of your hand. Make sure
control. they can do their job. There are several things that
will make it harder for them.
The risk of losing control of a bike can increase
because of deterioration in the road surface, such
as potholes, wheel ruts or grooves, slippery
surfaces and loose gravel.
Just under half of bike casualty crashes involve
loss of control.
Always try to be aware of the road surface
conditions, and if necessary adjust your riding
technique and speed to suit the conditions.

Loose dirt and gravel collect at the

edge of the road, so try to stay
away from there.

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Slippery roads
Many things can make the road surface slippery, and you
need to keep these in mind. This will become automatic as
you gather experience. Here are some common slippery
situations you may find.
• Sealed roads when they’re wet, especially just after it starts
to rain and before the oil and muck on the road are washed
away.
• Painted lane and other markings, as well as steel and other
naturally smooth surfaces – including manhole covers,
tram lines, bridge expansion joints and even smooth
bitumen used to repair roads – at any time, and even worse
when they are wet.
• Unmade and gravel roads, and patches of sand or gravel
that have collected on sealed roads.
• Mud, snow and ice, including black ice.
• Grease deposited in the middle of lanes, and oil or
diesel spills. Ride over bumps by raising yourself a little on the footpegs.
Try to avoid slippery patches. If you can’t, reduce speed
before you get to them, ride as upright as you can once you
reach them and try to avoid changing gear, turning or using Bumpy roads and potholes
the throttle or the brakes. If you need to brake, use both On rough roads, keep your speed down. That does three
brakes evenly. The important thing is to be smooth. things – it gives you time to avoid the worst bumps or holes,
reduces road shocks and gives your bike’s suspension time to
work. Remember that bumps can affect your steering as well
as the suspension, so take it easy. To give yourself as much
control as possible, raise yourself a little on the footpegs so
you can absorb road shocks with your knees and elbows.

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Grooved roads Crossing tram tracks

Every now and then you will come to a road that has had
grooves cut into it. This is usually to help make it less Cross tram or
slippery in the wet – there’s a warning already! Grooves are train tracks as
rarely a problem if you stay relaxed, maintain your speed and close as
possible to a
direction and just keep riding. Try to slow down as much as is
right angle and
safe before you get to the grooving. keep your bike
in an upright
Sloping roads position.

On a high crowned road, where the centre is much higher

than the sides, the slope of the road will try to push you to the
edge. This can be a worry especially in right-hand curves. Be
aware of it, slow down and maintain your position on the road.

Tram tracks and railway lines

Avoid riding on or across tram or railway tracks. They are
steel, and therefore slippery, and they can also have deep
ridges of road material alongside them. Don’t follow the rails
because your bike’s tyres could become trapped in these
grooves. • maintain your speed and cross smoothly without braking
When you cross tracks, remember these things: or accelerating

• look where you want to go, not where the tracks are going • if possible, complete any turn before you reach the tracks.

• avoid places where tracks cross each other

• cross the tracks as close to a right angle as possible, but
make sure you don’t risk running into other traffic
• keep your bike upright

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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the 3. To ride safely along a bumpy road you should:
bottom of this page. A slow down quickly after the first series of bumps
B rise slightly on the footpegs to absorb the road
1. The best way to handle a slippery surface is to: shocks
A travel on the left side of the road C sit on the seat and try to steer your way through
B use the rear brake if you are in trouble the bumps

C reduce your speed

4. Grease and oil from cars tends to build up:

2. Con wants to turn into a road but a number of tram A along the sides of the road
tracks cross each other there. He should: B in the centre of the lane
A if possible, complete the turn before he crosses C in the right hand part of the lane
the tram tracks
B brake whilst crossing tram tracks
C ignore the tram tracks as they will not make
much difference to the motorcycle

ANSWERS 1C 2A 3B 4B

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chapter
Riding at night
10 There are often fewer vehicles on the road at
night, but about one in four casualty bike crashes
happen between 6pm and 6am, so take even
more care. Your headlight and tail light must be
on between sunset and sunrise, when street lights
are switched on, and in weather conditions with
reduced visibility.
It is harder to see and to be seen at night. Your
headlight will not show you the road as clearly as
daylight will. Other road users may also have
trouble seeing your headlight or tail light because
of other lights.

See
Do not wear a dark tinted or scratched visor or tinted
glasses, especially at night. You need to be able to see as
clearly as possible.
You need to be able to stop within the distance you can
see ahead, so slow down to match the distance your
headlight shows you.
You can use high beam in built-up areas for extra seeing
distance, except when within 200 metres of another
vehicle. Make sure you dip your headlight to avoid
dazzling other road users. Don’t use high beam in fog,
because it will just be reflected back at you.
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If an oncoming vehicle has not dipped its high beam, or if its

light is too bright for you, slow down and look at the side of When riding at night
wear clothing that is
the road ahead of you instead of at the vehicle, until it has
visible and ensure
gone past. Often there is a line there that you can use as a lights are on and the
guide. That way you can keep track of where the road is lenses are clean.
going, and your vision won’t be affected.
The tail lights of the traffic you are following can show you
which way the road goes. If tail lights ahead of you bounce up
and down, expect a rough road surface ahead.

Be seen
Keep in mind the comments about being seen in Chapter 7,
and remember that it is more difficult to see anything at night
– especially something relatively small like a bike. Because
you only have a single headlight, it can also be difficult for
drivers to judge how far away you are.

Take care
Ride more slowly at night to give yourself more time to read
the road and react to problems. Ride further away from other
traffic; it is difficult to judge distance at night. And always
remember: don’t ride when you are tired!

Make sure that any reflectors and all

indicators and other lights on your bike are
clean, and seriously consider wearing a
reflective vest when you ride at night.

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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the
bottom of this page.

1. Three things you can do to ride more safely at night are:

A stay closer to other vehicles, always use the high
beam, wear dark, warm clothing
B reduce your speed, increase the distance between
your motorcycle and the car ahead, wear a
reflective vest
C change the type of tyres on your motorcycle, stay
closer to other vehicles, keep up with the flow of
traffic

2. Nicole notices the lights of the oncoming vehicles seem

to bounce up and down. She should:
A use her high beam to get a clearer look at the
road ahead
B reduce her speed and expect a change in road
conditions
C move to the centre of the road

ANSWERS 1B 2B

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chapter
Loading up
11 Remember to expect your bike to act differently
when it is carrying a load, whether that is a pillion
passenger or luggage.

Carrying a pillion passenger

You must not carry a pillion until you have held a
motorcycle licence for 12 months. To carry a pillion your
bike will need a seat designed to carry a passenger and
footpegs for them. The pillion’s feet must reach the
footpegs; keep this in mind if carrying children. See
Chapter 2 for the law related to carrying a pillion
passenger.
Pillions who are not used to being on a bike may react
unpredictably, so ask them to relax, hold onto the bike’s
‘grab rail’ or your waist and follow your lead when
leaning. Pillions should wear the same kind of protective
clothing and helmet as riders.

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On the ride
It is important to ride very smoothly when carrying a pillion.
Don’t talk because this will reduce your concentration and
take your attention off the road.
Remember that you are carrying a pillion, and ride more
slowly and carefully. The bike will not accelerate and brake as
quickly and it will handle differently in corners and over
bumps.

Carrying a load
Bikes are not designed to carry large loads, but if you
distribute the weight evenly there is no reason why small to
medium loads should be a problem. The owner’s manual
should give you the total amount of weight the bike is
designed to carry, including rider and pillion.
There are many different kinds of luggage available for bikes,
including panniers or saddlebags, tank bags and seat bags.
You may want to use more
Passengers must wear an approved helmet that fits securely, than one of these to
and the motorcycle must have pillion footpegs.
balance the weight when
you load your bike.
Getting ready Keep the load:
If it’s possible, you should adjust the preload of the bike’s
suspension when you are carrying extra weight. Check your • Low – ideally by putting
owner’s manual for instructions. You may also have to add air it in the panniers or on
to the tyres. the seat. If it is high it
may unbalance the bike.
Adjust your mirrors with you and the pillion both sitting on Don’t carry anything
the bike. heavy or unwieldy on
your back.

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• Forward – by placing it above or in front of the rear axle. Sidecars and trailers
Anything behind the rear axle can have a serious effect on
handling. Sidecars (sometimes referred to as an ‘outfit’) completely
change the way a bike handles. Before you ride a bike fitted
• Balanced – by filling panniers evenly or strapping heavy
with a sidecar it is very important that you practise in a quiet
loads onto the seat.
place with plenty of room and no traffic. Accelerating,
• Secure – by putting it in one or more of the bags steering and stopping, among other things, are very different
mentioned above or strapping it carefully to the bike. A with a sidecar. Get someone who understands sidecars to
loose load or strap could catch in the rear wheel or chain teach you to ride with one. It can be a very dangerous thing
and cause a crash. Be very careful if you use elastic straps to do unless you are trained properly.
with metal hooks – these are a major cause of eye loss.
Towing a trailer is less of a change from riding a solo bike,
Finally, check the load frequently to make sure that it is still but this also has its peculiarities. It will push the bike when
secure. you brake, and affect turning. It can cause serious instability
on rough roads. Its weight will also change acceleration and
handling. As with sidecars it is best to get someone who has
experience to teach you to ride with a trailer. You must not
ride a bike towing a trailer while you hold a motorcycle
learner permit.

Remember that extra weight will cause the

bike to handle differently. So increase your
following distance, as well as allowing
longer to speed up and slow down.

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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the 3. When you are carrying a passenger
bottom of this page. the motorcycle will:
A respond more slowly, taking longer to speed up
1. Sam just got his licence and a new motorcycle. He rides and slow down
his motorcycle around to show his girlfriend. May he B respond more quickly, because the weight
take his girlfriend for a ride? improves the handling ability of the motorcycle
A Yes, if he has another approved helmet C not change the way it handles as long as the
B Yes, if he has footpegs and handgrips on the weight is spread evenly
motorcycle
C No, because he has not held his licence for
12 months

2. Melissa is taking her brother to his night class. She

should:
A give him advice on how to ride as a pillion passenger
as they are riding
B not speak at all because she cannot hear him clearly
when riding
C give her brother instructions about being a pillion
passenger before they start

ANSWERS 1C 2C 3A

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chapter
Riding in a group
12 Riding with a group of friends is one of the most
enjoyable things you can do on a bike. But there
are some basic safety considerations to
remember, including the most important one of all
– riding in a group on the road is not, and should
never become, a race! That’s one of the main
causes of crashes on group rides; the other is
inexperienced riders trying to keep up with their
more experienced friends.

Prepare
If you are organising or leading a group ride, make sure
that everyone knows where the ride is going. Then, in
case someone gets separated, they won’t feel pressured
to hurry to catch up. It also helps to agree on stops
beforehand. Plan the timing of the ride according to the
least experienced or slowest rider to make sure that you
are not putting them under pressure to ride faster. Make
sure that the group does not interfere with the flow of
traffic. If necessary, allow other road users to pass you.

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Keep the group manageable Riding in a group

Small groups are safer. It is easier to keep an eye on everyone
and to make sure that all riders stay together – for instance at
traffic controls and when overtaking. A small group is also
better if you need to find somewhere with enough room to
pull off the road safely. Try to keep the group down to four or
five riders, and split it up if it is larger.

Positioning
Riders must not ride alongside more than one other rider
unless overtaking. It is best to ride in one line with, for
inexperienced riders, at least 3 seconds between bikes and a
safe distance from other traffic. That way any rider will have
time to react to emergencies, and room to move out of danger. 3 seconds

You are responsible for yourself

Do not follow another bike blindly. Place yourself on the road
where you feel it is safe. Do not focus too much on the bike in
front of you; it may not be taking a safe line. Pay attention to
the entire riding environment at all times; your safety is still
your own responsibility whether you are riding in a group or
alone.
Wait until you have stopped before trying to speak to another
rider.

If the pace is too fast for you, don’t

try to keep up. It is no disgrace to
drop back. The group should wait
Try to keep a three seconds gap when riding in a group.
for you.

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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the 3. When riding with inexperienced riders you should:
bottom of this page. A avoid situations which may place them
under pressure
1. A group of friends decide to go on a ride out to the B pair up to ride
country. They should:
C put the inexperienced riders in the front
A travel in groups of no more than four or five riders
B travel as a group so that no one gets lost
C divide into two groups and ride beside one another

2. You and your friend have become separated from the

others in your group. You think you should take the next
turn to the right. You should:
A accelerate quickly to get ahead and lead the way
B pull over to the side of the road and stop to discuss
which turn to take
C draw close to your friend and then shout instructions
to let your friend know you want to turn

ANSWERS 1A 2B 3A

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chapter
Look after your bike
13 Your life depends on your bike, so take the trouble
to run through the checklist in Chapter 6 before
you go for a ride. This will also allow you to pick
up potential problems early. Any problems should
be fixed as soon as possible – by a bike shop, if
necessary. There are also some other things you
should do regularly.

Maintenance
Modern bikes need far less maintenance than older ones,
so this list is much shorter than it would have been a few
years ago. That’s all the more reason to do some regular
maintenance, otherwise, you may not notice trouble
developing until it is too late. Consult the owner’s manual
for guidance, and:
• Keep the bike clean. This counts as maintenance
because it will help to stop corrosion and remove dust
and grit that can cause wear. It is a good time to check
for loose or missing nuts and bolts, loose spokes,
cracks or dents in the wheel rims, blown oil seals and
signs of rust anywhere on the bike. Pay special
attention to cleaning lights and indicators, to make
sure they are as bright as possible.

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• Keep the chain adjusted properly, clean and lubricated.

Follow the instructions in the owner’s manual. Check your understanding
• Check the oil level regularly. Make sure the bike is upright Answers to these review questions are upside down at the
and on level ground when you do this. bottom of this page.
• Check tyre pressures when the tyres are cold, before you
ride. Check tyre wear at the same time. 1. Pre-ride checks of your motorcycle should include:
• Brakes do not usually need to be adjusted between A petrol, oil and condition of the paint work
services, but keep an eye on the wear indicators on the
brake pads. Your owner’s manual will tell you how to B wheel, tyres and controls
do this. C none of these, as pre-ride checks are unnecessary

Servicing
2. To help make your motorcycle safe you should clean it
All motor vehicles need regular servicing. Follow the each week because:
suggested service intervals in your owner’s manual. There A it makes it look better when it is on the road
are some things, such as changing the oil, that you may wish
to do yourself. Other work will require specialised knowledge B it makes it easier to spot missing parts like nuts
or special tools, and should definitely be left to a bike and bolts
mechanic. Remember that you may void any warranty if you C it makes the motorcycle easier to see on the road
tackle certain jobs; check with your dealer if you are in doubt.

ANSWERS 1B 2B

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72
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section
D Here’s Trouble
Be prepared if something goes wrong
Trouble comes in many forms. Things can
happen quickly on the road, and you need
to be ready to respond rapidly to a variety
of emergency situations.
You also need to think about ways to stop
the thieves who may be out to steal your
bike!

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chapter
What is an emergency?
14 When something goes wrong on the road, you may
have an emergency on your hands. If you're ready
for it, you won't necessarily have a crash. You can
prepare yourself for emergencies, and learn to
cope with them. The key things are anticipation
and practice.
Anticipation will become easier with time, but that
is all the more reason to be very aware of it when
you start out. Keep in mind the many potential
dangers outlined in this book.
Also you need to find yourself a quiet place with
no traffic and invest some time in practice.
It will pay off every time you ride.

An example of countersteering
at low speed during training.

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Emergency braking way means standing the bike up straight so it is travelling in a

straight line, and applying the brakes as you would for any
Emergency braking is the most important control skill emergency stop. This will stop you quickly, but will take you
needed to avoid a crash. It needs a great deal of practice to do out of your line of travel. Be careful that you don't run off the
well. The quickest way to stop a motorcycle is to: road or into the path of other traffic.
• make sure you are upright and travelling in a
straight line Skidding
• close the throttle A skid tends to happen very quickly and can be extremely
• apply both brakes, using four fingers on the front brake dangerous, so it's important to know how to control it. Here
lever are some points to keep in mind:
• pull in the clutch just before you stop. • The most common cause of skidding is locking up one or
both wheels while braking.
Be careful not to lock up the wheels, because there is a good
chance you will crash if you do. Should either wheel lock up • The front wheel is most likely to skid when you brake too
and start to slide, release that brake and apply it again sharply or quickly. If this happens, release the front brake
immediately but not quite so firmly. and immediately apply it again more gently.
Your bike may have anti-lock braking (ABS) which will • The rear wheel may skid because you have accelerated or
prevent the wheels locking up. Try to ride as if the ABS braked too quickly or while turning. Ease off the throttle if
isn't there; it is intended to take over only in extreme acceleration was the problem. If it was braking, steer into
circumstances. the direction of the skid and release the rear brake when
the bike is travelling in a straight line again.
Braking through curves is a special case because the tyres
are already using a lot of the available traction for cornering. • If the bike skids for any reason, keep your feet on the
If you brake too hard while leaning over, there is a good footpegs while you deal with it. This will give you much
chance that you will fall over. The best thing to do is to better control than putting your feet down.
complete your braking before you start to lean, but in an See the diagram on the next page.
emergency that may not be possible.
There are two ways of braking while you are actually in a
corner. The first is the simplest - just brake as you normally
would, only more gently. You can continue around the corner,
although the bike may want to ‘stand upright’ and go straight
ahead. This way will not allow you to stop quickly. The other

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Skidding Swerving
There is a quick way to swerve around an obstacle, called
countersteering. It's very effective, but it definitely takes
practice. This is how to do it:
• To swerve quickly to the right, turn your head to the right,
look where you want to go and press forward on the right
handgrip.
• As you pass the obstacle, press forward on the left
handgrip and look left. The bike will straighten up again.
• If at all possible you should stay in your own lane when
you do this, so don't run wider than necessary. Changing
lanes can be dangerous unless you can check that there
are no vehicles in the lane you are entering.
• Reverse this process to swerve to the left, but no matter
which way you swerve, do not brake at the same time or
you could crash.
See the diagram on the next page.
Practice countersteering and you will find that it is a very
useful skill to have. An Accredited Motorcycle Trainer will
help you learn to use countersteering to swerve around an
obstacle.

If your rear wheel skids, steer into the skid and

ease off the rear brake when the bike is travelling
in a straight line again.

76 CHAPTER 14 – WHAT IS AN EMERGENCY?

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Countersteering Over the top

Sometimes you may have to ride over a small object or
Countersteering is the only through a pothole that's in your way. If the obstacle is flat, like
way to swerve quickly a sheet of cardboard or metal, ride straight over the top and
around an object. do not brake. If it is bulkier, treat it the same as for a bit of
rough road. Here are a few tips:
• If possible, brake before you reach the object, but release
the brake before you hit it.
• Hold the handgrips firmly but don't grasp them too hard.
• Keep the bike in a straight line. This makes it less likely
th that you'll fall over.
pa
ed • Stop afterwards and check tyres and wheels for damage.

d
en
One in the eye
int One very good reason for wearing a visor or a good pair of
goggles is eye protection. On a bike you will be hit by things
like insects and gravel. A visor or goggles will keep them out
of your eyes.
If you do get something in your eye, don't rub it or try to get
it out immediately. Keep your hands on the bars, try to keep
the edge of the road in view, slow down gently and pull off the
road. Then try to remove the object from your eye.

The Ride On video has very useful information

about countersteering. The video is available
from the Australian Transport Safety Bureau,
Tel: 1800 621 372.

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Animal warning Blowout

Animals are a difficult problem because they are A blowout is a quick puncture. It will usually be caused by a
unpredictable. You should always try to avoid hitting them, sharp object such as a nail. Replacing your tyres before they
but don't leave your lane or run off the road to avoid a small become too worn is the best protection against blowouts. Not
animal. You have a much better chance of surviving an impact running over things like timber boards on the road is also
with a small animal than with another vehicle or a roadside important.
pole. If the front tyre goes flat, the front of the bike will flop from
Don't try to kick dogs even if they are chasing you. Slow side to side rapidly and it will be harder to steer. If the rear
down as you approach them. Be careful that they don't run tyre goes flat, the back of the bike will slide from side to side.
under your front wheel. Then speed up a little when you are The faster you are going the more likely it is that you will lose
past them. They will usually lose interest quickly. control and crash. In any case you will need to react quickly.
Wildlife is even less predictable. Be especially careful at dusk • Hold the handgrips firmly and concentrate on steering.
or at night on country roads, because that's when many Keep your feet on the footpegs and try to keep going in a
animals may be around - but keep them in mind at any time. straight line.
The only thing that helps is riding really slowly and carefully, • Do not use the brakes, especially on the wheel with the flat
because animals like kangaroos and emus can seem to come tyre.
out of nowhere.
• If the front tyre is flat, shift your weight as far back as you
can to take the load off it. If it's the rear tyre, sit forward
on the bike, and pull in the clutch.
• Close the throttle gradually to slow down.
• Once you have slowed, pull off the road and coast to a
stop.

Checking your tyre pressures

and the condition of the tyres
frequently will help to prevent
flats.

78 CHAPTER 14 – WHAT IS AN EMERGENCY?

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Mechanical problems Broken chain

You'll definitely know when this happens, because there will
Bikes can cause emergencies, especially if they are not well be a huge bang from the back of the bike and it will then
looked after. either freewheel because there is no more drive to the rear
wheel or skid because the rear wheel is locked up. Look after
Wobble your chain, keep it properly tensioned and lubricated; replace
Your bike may begin to wobble or shake from side to side at it and the sprockets when they are worn.
high speed. Apart from a flat tyre, this could be caused by:
If your chain does break, and does not lock up the back
• a heavy load, unevenly distributed wheel:
• a wheel that is bent or out of alignment • close the throttle
• poorly tightened or worn bearings in the steering head or • brake to a stop.
swingarm
If it does lock up the wheel, treat this the same way as a rear
• a windshield or fairing that has not been fitted properly wheel skid – don’t brake and steer into the skid.
• loose wheel bearings or spokes
Stuck throttle
• unsuitable or worn tyres.
If you don't maintain your throttle cable properly, or
If you experience a wobble make sure you apply both brakes sometimes if there is wear in the carburettor, your throttle
carefully and slow down gradually. Carefully pull off the road. may stick while it is on. You will not be able to slow the
Work out what was causing the wobble and correct the engine. If this happens:
problem before you continue.
• pull in the clutch
• brake gently to a stop and pull off the road
• turn off the ignition.

Seized engine
Although it is more common in two-stroke engines, seizure
Remember that you cannot always does happen in four-strokes as well. The symptoms are the
tell from the wobble whether it is same as for a locked-up rear wheel, but the problem is easier
being caused by the front or rear to overcome. If it happens:
of the bike. • pull in the clutch immediately

CHAPTER 14 – WHAT IS AN EMERGENCY? 79

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• brake gently to a stop and pull off the road

• turn off the ignition.
Let the engine cool down and add oil or coolant if either is
low. The engine may start again, but it should be checked for
damage.

Pulling off the road

If you have to leave the road to check or fix your bike,
remember to: Be careful of the
• Check the roadside surface before you ride on it. Try not edge as you move
to pull off into mud or deep sand, and be careful of the off the bitumen on
edge as you move off the bitumen on to the roadside. to the roadside.

• Check your mirrors, do a headcheck and give a clear

signal to let other road users know what you are doing.
• Stop well away from the road. A bike by the roadside can
be hard to see. You might be hit by a car if you are too
close to the road.

Dealing with a crash

If you are involved in a crash there are certain things you
must do. The Road to Solo Driving details your
responsibilities and also has good advice on some basic first
aid. Remember if you need to call an ambulance, police or fire
brigade, phone 000.

80 CHAPTER 14 – WHAT IS AN EMERGENCY?

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Check your understanding

Answers to these review questions are upside down at the 4. Kim is riding along and the bike becomes hard to steer
bottom of this page. because her front tyre has gone flat. She should:
A apply the brakes quickly
1. If you need to stop quickly in an emergency, you should: B shift her weight far back on the seat, ease off the
A apply the front brake only throttle and come to a stop

B apply both brakes together C open the throttle and speed up to relieve the effect

C open the throttle

5. You are riding along a freeway at 80 km/h. The front
wheel begins to wobble. You should:
2. If you press forward on the left handgrip when riding,
the motorcycle will: A firmly grip the handgrips and accelerate out of the
wobble
A lean to the right
B firmly grip the handgrips and apply the brakes
B lean to the left quickly to make the shaking stop
C not change its lean C don’t fight the wobble, but gradually slow down and
carefully pull off the road
3. The chain on Tam’s motorcycle breaks, but the back
wheel does not lock up. He should:
A release the brakes quickly
B apply the front brake harder
C close the throttle and brake to a stop

ANSWERS 1B 2B 3C 4B 5C

CHAPTER 14 – WHAT IS AN EMERGENCY? 81

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chapter
Bike security
15 Bikes are very easy to steal; they can just be
picked up and moved. Less than a third of stolen
bikes are recovered. It makes sense to be
especially careful.

Protect the bike itself

• Make your bike as hard to steal as possible by always
locking it.
• Fit an engine immobiliser if it doesn’t already
have one.
• Keep your keys safe!

Security at home
• Park your bike in a locked garage if you can, and lock
it to something solid.
• Don’t leave the keys with the bike even when it is in
the garage.

For additional security use

an extra locking device.

82 CHAPTER 15 – BIKE SECURITY

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Security on the road

• Try to park where you can see the bike, lock it, remove
the keys and use some sort of locking device, such as a
chain (choose one that is not easily cut) and a strong
padlock.
• Lock it to something solid if you can; remember, thieves
can lift even big bikes and carry them away.
• Don’t leave valuables on your bike, such as in a bag
or pannier.

CHAPTER 15 – BIKE SECURITY 83

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VicRoads Customer Service Centres

VicRoads Customer Service Centres Metropolitan

are open 8.30am – 4.30pm Monday to
Thursday and to 5.00pm on Friday
(except for the Melton and Sunbury BROADMEADOWS FRANKSTON
centres that close at 4.30pm on Friday). Cnr Pearcedale Parade and Johnstone 71 Hartnett Drive, Seaford
Street
For further information: HOPPERS CROSSING
• phone 13 11 71 BUNDOORA 52-64 Old Geelong Road
• for hearing impaired 8 Graduate Rd (Spotlight Centre)
TTY 1300 652 321 University Hill
MELTON
• online at www.vicroads.vic.gov.au
BURWOOD EAST Shire Office
267 High Street
12 Lakeside Drive

CAMBERWELL OAKLEIGH SOUTH

1 Eskay Road
3 Prospect Hill Road

CARLTON SUNBURY
7/36 Macedon Street
459 Lygon Street

DANDENONG SUNSHINE
499 Ballarat Road
72-74 Greens Road

DROMANA
Shop 11 Dromana Central
143 Point Nepean Road

84
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Rural
ARARAT GEELONG SALE
Shop 2, 56 High Street 180 Fyans Street, Geelong South 28 Princes Highway

BAIRNSDALE HAMILTON SEYMOUR

535 Princes Highway Riley Street 5 Crawford Street

BALLARAT HORSHAM SHEPPARTON

88 Learmonth Road 14 O’Callaghans Road 231-239 Corio Street

BENALLA KYNETON SWAN HILL

50-52 Clarke Street 2 Beauchamp Street 70 Nyah Road

BENDIGO LEONGATHA WANGARATTA

57 Lansell Street Anderson Street 62-86 Ovens Street
(South Gippsland Highway)
COBRAM WARRAGUL
Shire Office MILDURA Unit 5, 131 North Road
44 Station Street 109-111 Orange Avenue
WARRNAMBOOL
COLAC MORWELL 29 Jamieson Street
10 Scott Street, 87 Princes Drive
Colac WODONGA
82-86 Elgin Boulevard
ECHUCA PORTLAND
114A Percy Street
5 Mundarra Road

85
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Accredited Motorcycle Training and Assessment Service Providers

Metropolitan
ALTONA
ARDEER NORTH HOPPERS CROSSING
DANDENONG SOUTH SANDOWN RACECOURSE
MOORABBIN
DECA Training Stay UprightTraining
Motorcycle Motorcycle Techniques
Academy Motorcycle Motion
SPRINGVALE
1300 365 400 1300
9706 366
9733640 Ride-Tek
9532 0509 Motorcycling Training
www.deca.com.au www.stayupright.com.au
www.motorcycletraining.com.au 1300 788 382
www.motorcyclemotion.com

CALDER
CARRUMPARK
DOWNS KILSYTH
HOPPERS CROSSING THOMASTOWN
Rider
DECA Bros Motorcycle Training
Training HART (Honda)
Stay Upright Motorcycle Techniques Armstrongs Driver Education
1300 8825
9217 365 400 9335
1300 2766
366 640 9464 6464
www.deca.com.au www.hondampe.com.au
www.stayupright.com.au www.armdrive.com.au
CARRUM DOWNS
DECA Training
DANDENONG MOORABBIN
KILSYTH SOMERTON
TULLAMARINE
1300 365 400
Ride-Tek Motorcycling Training Motorcycle Motion
HART (Honda) HART (Honda)
www.deca.com.au
0414 331 037/9701 7304 9532
9335 0509
2766 9270
9335 1377
2766
www.motorcyclemotion.com
www.hondampe.com.au www.hondampe.com.au

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Rural
BAIRNSDALE GEELONG LEONGATHA
DECA Training Stay Upright Motorcycle Techniques DECA Training
1300 365 400 1300 366 640 1300 365 400
www.deca.com.au www.stayupright.com.au www.deca.com.au
Ride-Tek Motorcycling Training
HAMILTON MILDURA
1300 788 382
South West Institute of TAFE Aust-Link
BALLARAT 5564 8967 5023 8581
Stay Upright Motorcycle Techniques www.swtafe.vic.edu.au
NEWBOROUGH
1300 366 640
HASTINGS DECA Training
www.stayupright.com.au
Baylink Motorcycle Training 1300 365 400
Academy www.deca.com.au
BENDIGO
Aust-Link 5971 9312

5023 8581 www.baylinktraining.com.au

DECA Training HORSHAM

1300 365 400 Neil’s Driver Training
www.deca.com.au 5033 1496

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Index
A C G K
Accredited Motorcycle Cables 31, 33 Gears 31 Knees 31, 55
Trainers 86-88 Chain 32, 64, 71, 79 Gloves 23
Alcohol 8, 9, 13 Clothing 14, 17, 20, 26, 42, 59, Grooved roads 56 L
Animals 78 62 Group riding 66-69 LAMS 8, 9, 26
Clutch 30, 31, 33 Lane position 38-40, 46-49
B Controls 31 H Lane splitting 10, 48
Countersteering 74, 76 Laws ii, 8-11
BAC (Blood Alcohol Handgrips 30, 31
Crashes 2, 10, 12, 54, 58, 64, Learner Approved Motorcycle
Concentration) 8, 9 13 Headchecks 50
66, 74-75, 80 Scheme 8, 9, 26
Blind spots 38-40 Headlight 33, 40, 58-59
Blowout 78 Learner permit 2, 6-7, 8, 13,
Helmet 18-19, 26, 42, 62, 63
Body position 30-31 D High beam 40, 58-59
26, 64
Boots 23 Distance, safe 38, 46-51 Licence 2, 6, 7, 9, 13, 26, 62
High crowned roads 56
Brake lights 33, 40 Drugs 13, 14 Lights 33, 40, 58, 59, 70
Hook turns 9
Brakes 31, 33, 47, 55, 71, 75, Loads 26, 62-65, 79
Horn 33, 41, 48
78, 79 Low beam 40
E L plate 8
Braking 31, 40, 56, 75
Broken chain 79
Elbows 31, 55 I
Emergency braking 75
Bumps 55, 63
Engine seizure 79
Indicators 33, 40, 59, 70 M
Intersections 37, 39, 40, 48,
Maintenance 70
Mechanical problems 79-80
F Mirrors 32, 33, 38, 47, 50, 63,
Fatigue 14, 33
J
80
Feet 10, 23, 30, 31, 62, 75 Jackets 20-22
Motorcycle Learner Permit
Following distance 51, 64 Knowledge Test 2, 7
Footpegs 10, 31, 55, 62
Fuel 33

89
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O R T W
Objects, flying 77 Railway track 56 Tailgate 47, 49 Wet weather gear 20-21
Objects, riding 76-77 Recreation registration 26 Tail lights 33, 42, 58-59 Wheels 70, 75, 77, 78, 79
Off-road 26 Reflectors 59 Tests 2, 3, 6-7 Wobble 79
Off-road bikes 25 Rest breaks 14 Three second gap 46, 51, 67
Oil level 33, 71 Riding Skill Test 7 Throttle 31, 33, 55, 75, 78, 79
Oil slicks 38, 55 Road bikes 25 Tiredness 14, 33
Road law ii, 8-11 Train tracks 56
P Road position 36-43, 46-53, Training ii, 2, 6, 7, 17
56, 67 Training courses 2, 6, 7, 17,
Panniers 26, 63-64, 83
Road/trail bikes 25 86-88
Pants 20-22
Tram tracks 56
Parked cars 9, 48, 49
S Trailers 8, 64
Parking 9
Trikes 6, 9, 25
Passenger 8, 9, 10, 18, 26, Saddlebags 63-64
Turning 9, 31, 55, 64, 75
62-63 Scanning 49-50
Tyres 32, 33, 56, 63, 71, 75,
Pillion passengers 8, 9, 10, Scooters 25
77, 78, 79
18, 26, 62-63 Seat 30, 62, 63, 64
Planning 14, 51 Sharing lanes 10, 48, 80
Position 36-43, 46-53, 56, 67 Sidecars 6, 18, 64
V
Posture 30-31 Signals 33, 41, 80 VicRoads Customer Service
Potholes 47, 50, 54-55, 77 Skid control 75-76, 79 Centres 84-85
P plate 9 Slippery surfaces 47, 54-57 Visibility 19, 20, 36, 40-42,
Probationary 9, 13 Sprockets 79 47, 58
Protective clothing 14, 17, Survival space 48-53 Visors 9, 20, 58, 77
20, 26, 42, 59, 62 Swerving 48, 51, 76

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www.vicroads.vic.gov.au

VRPIN 00122/16 01/09

9 3 23937 000983