I am trying to make a copy of Shalimar (for educational purpose).
I based my formula on Louis Appell's formula-type.
The outcome was quite far from the real Shalimar (I've a sample of the recent EdP). But, after
further investigations, I noticed that some key ingredients were missing from this formula like
ethyl-vanillin, opoponax, frankincense and birch tar!
I added those ingredient in my formula with a much better outcome.
---Citrus + linalool notes----------------------
28% bergamote + linalyl acetate
4% lemon + orange
7% coriander + clary Sage + linalool :
1% aldehyde C11 10% : (slightly too much ?)
------------------------------------------------
40%
---Spicy / aromatic notes-----------------------
5% lavender
1% cinnamon (huge -> gives a coca-cola effect !)
4% tarragon 10%
------------------------------------------------
10%
---Floral notes---------------------------------
7% rose absolute + PEA
5% jasmine + benzyl acetate
1.5% neroli + oranger absolute
1% hydroyxycitronellal
0.5% amyl cinnamic aldedyde
------------------------------------------------
15%
---Woody notes---
2% patchouli : (gives a "Chypre" effect --> too much ?)
1% oakmoss
2% sandalwood
------------------------------------------------
5%
---Sweet vanilla / almond / balsamic / lactonic and musky / animalic
notes---
2% methylionone
2% orris butter 10%
5% coumarin
3% ethyl-vanillin
1% vanilla
3% benzoin
1% peru balsam
1% tolu balsam
1% opoponax
1% frankincense
------------------------------------------------
20%
---Lactonic, musky and animalic notes---
7% musk ketone
0.5% aldehyde C14 10%
1% birch tar
0.5% castoreum 10%
1% civet reconstitution 1%
--------------------------------------------------------
10%
Neroli -- 5
Linalool -- 30
Bergamot Terpeneless ( can very nicely substitute Master's Bergamot Blend)-- 20
aldehyde C 10, 10% -- 20
aldehyde C 11, 10 percent -- 20
MNA 10% -- 20
Ylang Ylang -- 35
Jasmine absolute (can nicely substitute Jasmine Blend*) -- 50
Oak Moss 10% (great substitute is Oak Moss Blend*) -- 15
civic tincture 10% (can substitute Civet Blend*) -- 25
musk tincture 3% (substitute Animalid*) -- 200
Orris concrete 10% -- 10 (can substitute Alpha Ionone)
Storax resin 10% -- 10
vanilla tincture 10% -- 100
Rose absolute (can substitute Rose blend* )-- 10
Methyl Ionone -- 50
Ionone alpha -- 10
patchouli 1% -- 50
Sandalwood (can very nicely substitute Sandalwood Blend*)-- 10
vetiveryl acetate (could substitute vetiver)-- 10
coumarin -- 50
hydroxy citronellal -- 20
methyl iso eugenol -- 20
ambrettolide -- 20
musk ketone -- 40
ambergris tincture -- 50 (or substitute Cetalox 5%)
DEP or IPM or DPG - 100
There are other versions of the formula that have been published over the years, including this
one on a Russian website. It will undoubtedly be a knock-off: I’ve not made it myself, but a
blogger who has described it as ‘a pale ghost of Chanel 5’. . .
Chanel 5
1. Linalool 5.0
2. Benzylacetate 15.0
3. Woody Type Aldehyde 5.0
4. Aldehyde C11 10% 1.0
5. Aldehyde C12 10% 1.0
6. Aldehyde C12 MNA 10% 1.0
7. Ylang-ylang oil 5.0
8. PhenylEthyl Alcohol 5.0
9. Oakmoss 10% 1.5
10. Galbanum oil 6.0
11. Styrax oil 0.2
12. Aurantine 0.2
13. Labdanum resinoid 1.0
14. Methyl Ionone 3.0
15. Ionone pure 100% 3.0
16. Patchouli oil 0.5
17. coumarin 1.0
18. hydroxycitronellol 5.0
19. isoeugenol 1.0
20. Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5.0
21. Benzylsalicylate 10.0
22. Musk Ambrette 10.0
23. Musk Ketone 5.0
24. Clary sage oil 0.1
25. Dihydromyrcenol 10.0
Chanel No. 5 accord : Fundamentals of Perfumery - Practice and Creation-, Motoki Nakajima,
1995:
Aldehyde C-10 10% DEP 30
Aldehyde C-11 CYL 10% DEP 15
Aldehyde C-11 LEN 10% DEP 15
Aldehyde C-12 (L) 10% DEP 30
Aldehyde C-12 MNA 10% DEP 5
Bergamot oil Italy BGF 30
Linalool 40
Ylang Ylang extra 100
Rose base (oil type) 100
Rose base (absolute type) 50
Jasmin base 30
Muget base 100
Eugenol 20
Iralia 100
Sandalwood Mysore 20
Vetiver oil Bourbon 20
Musk ketone 80
Coumarin 100
Vanilin (L) 10
Civet absolute 50% DPG 10
D.E.P. 95
Total 1000
I've (JSPARLA) experimented with PA's (Christ's original post) formulation a bit and gave it a
twist towards more common ingredients and a musk combination.
After maturing a couple of months, it has definitely a Chanel 5 scent and as a bonus a long
longevity
Give it a try if you like, all in drops.
I've added 10 ml of alcohol for a perfume concentration:
Neroli 1
Ethyl linalool 3
Bergamot 2
Aldehyde C10 10% 2
Aldehyde C11 10% 2
Aldehyde C12 NMA 10% 2
Ylang ylang 4
Jasmin absolute 25% 2
Oak moss absolute 30% 1
Civet 10% 1
Galaxolide 50% 12
Tonalide 25% 4
Musk R1 30% 2
Celestolide 10% 2
Violet Leaf absolute 25% 1
Styrax 20% 1
Levistamel 2.5% 2
Vanillin 25% 5
Rose absolute 25% 1
Methyl ionone 25% 8
Alpha ionone 1
Coumarin 25% 10
Patchouli 1
Sandalwood 1
Vetiver 1
Hydroxycitronellal 2
Eugenol 2
Ambrettolide 2
Musk ketone 20% 10
Ambergris tincture 3% 5
Vertenex 2
The dilutions are not necessary, it was just the prepared dilutions i had at hand.
Recalculate if you wish (Like Methyl ionon 25% x 8 = 100% x 2).
I've been recreating Virgin Island Water, which is roughly 20% Hedione. I must say that nothing
could replace it; in fact, you could take away the bergamot or lime and still have a decent
fragrance, but take away the Hedione and VIW is no longer possible. Try the following with and
without the hedione if you want to see what it does (this is an extremely simplified VIW):
citrus - 25
lilial - 8
hedione - 15
galaxolide – 10
Titan Skinn Raw
Notes
1. Top:Bergamot, Watery Fruits and Mandarin
2. Heart:Violet Leaves, Pomarose, Carnation and Geranium
3. Base:Indonesian Patchouli, Cashmeran and Gaiac Wood
Titan Skinn Verge
Notes
1. Top:Lavendin Oil, Lemon Oil, and Aromatic Accords of Rosemary and Basil Oils
2. Heart:Mahonial, Geranium and Spearmint Oil
3. Base:Patchouli, Leather Accord and Oak Moss Accord
Titan Skinn Steele
Notes
1. Top:Bergamot and Pink Grapefruit Essences, and Green Rhubarb
2. Heart:Pink Pepper, Pimento, Nutmeg, and Geranium
3. Base:Musk, Vanilla, Praline and Roasted Tonka Beans
