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 THEMILAN
CITY GUIDE

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 © 2005 Netplan srl.
All rights reserved.
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE 1

Summary
THINGS TO KNOW

3 History and culture

THINGS TO SEE

5 Churches and Museums

7 Historical buildings and monuments
9 Places and charm

THINGS TO TRY

11 Eating and Drinking

13 Shopping
15 Hotels and lodgings

THINGS TO EXPERIENCE

16 Events
18 La Dolce Vita

ITINERARIES

20 A special day
22 Shopping in Milan
24 Pavia and Vigevano

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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO KNOW 3 4 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO KNOW

History and culture

forcing an alliance with the emperors: Ottone made his debut – was built, together with
of Saxony , who was crowned King of Italy many Neoclassical buildings and the Arco
in the Church of Sant’Ambrogio, made this della Pace.
power even more legitimate. In 1859, the Austrians were driven out of Milan
and the city was annexed to the Kingdom of
In the first half of the year 1000, The Piedmont, which then became the Kingdom
Archbishop of Milan became the most of Italy in 1861.
powerful political figure in the whole of Milan was immediately chosen as the
Northern Italy. After a series of political economic and cultural capital of Italy, and
problems, Milan became a municipality has maintained this title up to modern days.
(1117), and gradually freed itself from the
Archbishop. It also began to expand by
declaring war on other municipalities in the
nearby area. Later the attempt by Frederick
I of Swabia to take over the city gave rise
to the birth of the Lombard League, which
fought for the city’s independence, and
which ended in 1176 after the defeat of
Barbarossa.

Milan: the Duomo From 1200 onwards, Milan became an

increasingly important city, and finally
The city’s origins date back to 400 B.C when changed from being a municipality to a
the Gauls settled in this area of the Po Plains, “Seigneury”. The city walls were extended,
having defeated the Etruscans who were by new buildings were built and roads were
now in decline. paved. The Visconti family, noblemen from
When the city was conquered by the Romans Bergamo, Cremona, Piacenza, Brescia and
in 222 B.C. and annexed to the Empire, it Parma came to power in 1300 and brought
was given the name Mediolanum. After some about a lengthy period of splendor and
attempts at rebellion, it became a permanent wealth for the city. Monuments were built,
Latin colony (89 B.C.) and then regional including the famous Duomo in 1386, that
capital (15 B.C.). Over the years, Mediolanum soon became the city’s symbol. The Sforza
acquired the name “Roma secunda” due family took over from the Viscontis, and
to its strategic position. After 313 A.D., the with them they brought peace after many
year in which the Emperor Constantine issued years of warring against Venice and Florence.
the Edict of Tolerance towards Christianity, Milan developed sciences, art and literature
many churches were built and the first under the Sforza Duchy: Leonardo da Vinci
bishop was appointed: Ambrogio was such and “il Bramante” were called to the Court
an influential person that the Church became of Ludovico il Moro. When Charles V came to
the Ambrosian Church. the throne in 1535, the city began a period of
almost two centuries of Spanish rule, which is
After the fall of the Roman Empire, Milan narrated by Alessandro Manzoni in his classic
was left to the mercy of the Barbarians, until book “I Promessi Sposi” (The Betrothed). At
it was conquered by the Longobards (also the beginning of the eighteenth century, the
known as Lombards) in 569 A.D. Towards Austrians arrived in Milan: Milan underwent
the end of the eighth century, the bishops a deep cultural changed under Austrian rule.
managed to use the influence to full extent, The La Scala Theater – where Giuseppe Verdi
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO SEE 5 6 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO SEE

Churches and Museums

tell the story of about 1600 years of Milan’s recently finished, bringing it back to its full Gaston di Foix and the “Pietà Rondinini” by
history. glory and halting the deterioration that was Michelangelo.
turning it into a faded, shapeless stain.
Basilica of Sant’ Eustorgio Museum of Science and Technology
A wonderful medieval religious building that La Scala Theater Museum This interesting museum, which is named after
was built at the beginning of the fourth Founded in 1913, this interesting museum Leonardo da Vinci and which was recently
century on the wishes of the Bishop Eustorgio houses exhibits of various costumes and renovated and housed in an old monastery, is
who brought the remains of the wise kings theatre sets that are of great historical and one of the most interesting science museums
here from Constantinople, that can still be artistic value. Some rooms are dedicated in the whole world. 40,000 square meters of
seen in the Chapel bearing their name today. to the La Scala Theater’s architecture and exhibition space for subjects ranging from
the life of the famous composer Giuseppe astronomy to computers. The models and
Basilica of San Lorenzo Maggiore Verdi, while others house ancient musical machines built to the design by the great
This wonderful basilica, located opposite the instruments, curtains and costumes that Tuscan genius cannot be missed.
Roman columns that are the only remains belonged to famous artists such as Maria
of a third-century temple, includes many Callas and Rudolf Nureyev.
different architectural styles, due to the
various renovations that the building has Pinacoteca di Brera
undergone. The main elements are Paleo- The Pinacoteca di Brera is an art gallery set
christian (for example the mosaics) but other up in 1809 by Napoleone Bonaparte. It houses
more recent styles also stand out, including a great number of works of art that were
Milan: Bailica of Sant’Ambrogio
ones from 1600 (the dome) to 1800 (the “confiscated” from churches and convents
façade). throughout Europe. Works to be seen range
From the ancient Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio from the fourteenth to the twentieth
to the huge, majestic Duomo: the greatest Santa Maria delle Grazie centuries, and include masterpieces by artists
symbols of religion in Milan: This church was built in the second half of such as Piero della Francesca (Pala d’Urbino),
the fifteenth century. It was only completed Raffaello (Sposalizio della Vergine), Mantenga
The Duomo years later by “il Bramante” on the wishes (Cristo Morto), il Bramante and Caravaggio.
The most outstanding example of Gothic- of Ludovico il Moro. The famous architect The courtyard holds a wonderful statue of
Lombard architecture, the Duomo dates back designed the wonderful apse, the cloisters Napoleon that was created by Canova.
to 1300. It was built on the wishes of Gian and the old sacristy. Leonardo da Vinci
Galeazzo Visconti. This imposing religious painted “The Last Supper” in the refectory, Pinacoteca Ambrosiana
building, second only to St Peter’s Cathedral which is one of the most famous works of art This is Milan’s oldest museum, which
in Rome, houses almost 3500 statues that ever painted. was opened in 1609 It is home to some
are spread over an area of almost 12,000 masterpieces by artists such as Caravaggio,
square meters. The tallest spire, which has Leonardo da Vinci, Raffaello and Botticelli.
the famous “Madonnina” on top of it, is 108 The Ambrosiana also houses an important
meters high. The statue of the Virgin Mary, A selection of the most interesting museums library which contains some ancient codes,
the “Madonnina”, is covered in 3900 pieces in Milan that must be visited: illuminated manuscripts, and ancient books.
of gold leaf.
Cenacolo Vinciano The Museum of Ancient Art
Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio Between 1495 and 1498, Leonardo da Vinci This interesting museum is housed in the
This is the symbol of Milan’s religiousness. painted the whole wall of the refectory in splendid Castello Sforzesco, and is home
It was built in 379 A.D. in the Romanesque- the Dominican convent of Santa Maria delle to some of the most important sculptures
Lombard style, and was consecrated by the Grazie with a fresco of The Last Supper, one that help to understand Lombard history
famous Bishop Ambrogio, who lent his name of the most famous masterpieces in history. and culture. The works come from a period
to the Ambrosian Church. Inside there are This work of art has undergone a restoration ranging from the 4th to the 16th century.
valuable artifacts and works of art that that lasted twenty years and which was only They include the funeral monument for
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO SEE 7 8 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO SEE

Historical buildings and monuments

shapes. Among the statues, chapels and other survive up to the present day. These sixteen
works of art, we can find the graves of some columns that stand opposite the Basilica of
of the most famous people from Italian San Lorenzo are all that remains of an ancient
and European culture, such as Alessandro Roman temple, that probably dates back to
Manzoni, Salvatore Quasimodo, Eugenio the 2nd century.
Montale and Maria Callas.

Royal palace
The Royal Palace, in Piazza Duomo, is a very
old building that dates back to 1100 and
which has been home to the most powerful
men in Milan over the centuries, from the
Viscontis to the Sforza family, the Spanish
governors and Austrian rulers. Several
temporary art exhibitions are held inside the
building today.

Arco della pace

In the middle of Piazza Sempione there is this
huge monument 25 meters high, that dates
Milan: Arco della Pace back to Napoleonic era. Arco della Pace is
built in Neoclassical style, and is decorated
Buildings and monuments that bear witness with marble sculpture and Corinthian
to the history of this city, the economic and columns, and on the top there is a charming
cultural center of Italy. bronze “Sestiga”, a chariot drawn by six
horses.
Castello Sforzesco
The original center dates back to 1450, La Scala Theater
which was built on the wishes of the Duke A Temple to Opera music, built at the end
Francesco Sforza. Over the centuries, the of the 1700s over the remains of the Church
castle has undergone various changes, also of Santa Maria della Scala, from which the
due to the particular ups and downs that theater then took its name. Some of the
have seriously affected the structure. At the greatest names in opera have made their
end of the 19th century, a major renovation debuts in this theater: Rossigni, Donizetti,
was made on the whole building. Castello Bellini, Puccini and, in 1839, Giuseppe Verdi
Sforzesco is a majestic building. Inside it who moved to the Grand Hotel in Milan on that
has wonderful interior courtyards, built in date where he continued to live until he died.
Gothic-Renaissance style and incredible halls, The La Scala Theater, famous worldwide,
designed by Leonardo, and frescos painted by stands on one side of the beautiful square
master painters such as Bramante, who were that carries the same name. In the center of
commissioned by the court of Ludovico il the square there is a monument to Leonardo
Moro. The Castle now hosts important art da Vinci and on the other side there is the
exhibitions. wonderful Palazzo Marini.

The Monumental Cemetery Columns of San Lorenzo

This great cemetery was built around 1860, in This is the only monument that dates back
a Lombard style and some obviously Byzantine to the Roman era, which has managed to
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO SEE 9 10 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO SEE

Places and charm

Brera Piazza Mercanti

This is one of the most exclusive and This characteristic square near the Duomo
fashionable places in Milan, that has an is surrounded by very interesting historical
atmosphere vaguely reminiscent of Paris, buildings that represent Milanese culture
with its artists, open-air coffee shops and from the middle ages to the seventeenth
sophisticated boutiques - full of wares for the century. These include Palazzo della Ragione
home and handmade dresses that seem to be that dates back to 1200, the Loggia degli Osii,
creations of sculptors and not dressmakers. the seventeeth century Palazzo delle Scuole
This area, that could be described as Palatine and Palazzo dei Giureconsulti that
“luxury Bohemian” includes Via Brera, Via stands at the top of Via Mercanti.
Solferino, Via Pontaccio, Corso Garibaldi
and Corso Como. Alongside it there are many
eighteenth century palaces including Palazzo
Brera at number 28 Corso Como that houses
the famous Pinacoteca.

Parco Sempione
This park stands behind Castello Sforzesco.
It is huge and fascinating with its lakes,
meadows and little bridges. It is the ideal
Milan: Brera place to spend a Sunday afternoon in the
fresh air. The Park is home to monuments
To discover the most romantic, attractive such as the Arena Napoleonica, the Tower
side of this city: from the picturesque views designed by Giò Ponti and the Triennale di
of the Navigli to the green oases in the center Milano.
of Milan…
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
Navigli This was built around 1870 and is called the
The origins of the Navigli date back to about “salotto di Milano” (The Milan Lounge): If you
1100, but this stretch of water was only made walk along its cross-shaped “arms”, topped
navigable from the Ticino to the center of by the glass and iron structure, you can see
Milan at the end of the 14th century, to help old coffee-shops, restaurants, boutiques and
transport the marble that was needed to historical bookshops.
build the Duomo.
The Milan Wharf, that was an important Porta Venezia Gardens
commercial port for river transport for many These wonderful gardens can be found
centuries, was still working up to the end between Via Palestro and Porta Venezia,
of the Second World War, and then closed the favorite place to be for the Milanese on
permanently in 1979. Today the Naviglio springtime afternoons. The gardens which
Grande and the Naviglio Pavese (that were the first to be opened to the public in
connects Milan to Pavia) make up one of the Milan, date back to the end of the eighteenth
most charming places in Milan, with the old, century and were renovated in 1880.
typical “case di ringhiera” houses, antique There are many monuments dedicated to
shops and hundreds of clubs standing on each famous characters from Italian history and
side, that are invade the banks of the rivers there are also many botanical species to be
from April to September with their open-air admired.
tables.
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO TRY 11 12 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO TRY

Eating and Drinking

an evening in Milan cannot go without this the Pò valley that includes the Lombardia,
ritual. Piedmont, Veneto and Emilia Romagna
One of the many aperitifs that you can regions. Mascarpone is also a typical Milanese
try out during happy hour is the classical cheese, that is an essential ingredient for
Negroni, which is a little “aggressive” but desserts and creams, often mixed with other
is especially loved by the Milanese, made cheeses, salami or fish. However, the most
with Bitter Campari, Gin, red Martini and famous Milanese cheese is without a doubt
ice, that must be tried with a few snacks. Gorgonzola, that rich, strongly flavored
After your aperitif you can choose one cheese that reigns supreme at the Milan
of the several restaurants in Milan that dinner table. This creamy cheese, that has
specializes in traditional cooking. We advise blue veins running through it, is used to dress
you to start with a traditional antipasto, tasty first courses (in this case mixed with
made of nervetti (boiled calf’s shank and mascarpone), and to flavor Polenta or can
knee cartilage cut into strips) and mixed be eaten alone. Finally, we should remember
with thinly sliced onions. As a first course Crescenza or “Stracchino”, the soft, creamy
you cannot miss out on the classical Risotto fresh milk cheese with a slightly sweet taste,
alla Milanese, made with a full-bodied beef that is excellent when spread on a slice of
broth (the original recipe includes bone bread or eaten with raw vegetables.
marrow) and flavored with saffron. As a
second course we suggest a classic Milanese If you are interested in buying foodstuffs
Milan: Risotto alla Milanese dish: “cassouela”, an extremely filling dish or wine, you must visit Peck, a legendary
made with various poor parts of pork meat temple of gastronomy. In Via Spadari, where
Traditional Milanese cooking is made up of (tail, ribs, rind, feet and ears) cooked with there is also a famous fishmonger’s, you will
simple, meager dishes and perhaps for this green cabbage and other vegetables. If you find all you need to satisfy your taste buds
reason it was banished during the ambitious are not feeling so courageous, go for a more and your sense of hedonism: DOP (certified
1980s. It has only recently returned to traditional dish, a tasty Milanese cutlet that origin) cheeses from all over Italy, all kinds
popularity. Milan is a city that lives off fashion is probably nothing like you’ve ever tasted in of salami, extra virgin oils, aged balsamic
and trends: there was Chinese cooking (that other places: Milan restaurants actually serve vinegars, rare tea and spice mixtures, pretty
was obviously discovered here before it was a very tasty, crunchy cutlet, made with a veal preserves of food in oil and a wine cellar that
adopted in the rest of Italy), then Indian chop, including the bone. Another alternative is filled with the most valuable wines from
cooking, then African cooking, followed by is veal tonné, that is a light, tasty veal slice Italy and abroad.
Japanese and Middle Eastern cooking. The covered in tuna, mayonnaise, anchovy and
Milanese people have now returned to their caper sauce. We recommend an excellent
origins, enjoying the tastes with the pleasure Barbera from the Oltrepò Pavese as your
that one feels when one returns home after wine.
a long trip. Now there are trattorias, inns If you should decide to spend time in Milan
and restaurants (including luxury ones) that coincides with the Christmas festivities,
everywhere that offer traditional Milanese you could end your lunch with a huge slice
dishes to eat. of Panettone, the typical local Christmas
If you are planning to visit this city, don’t cake, that is even tastier if you eat it with
miss out on the chance to try some typical traditional Mascarpone cream.
food that you can find here in their original
version. There are typical products from the province
of Milan, including Salame di Milano, made
We offer you a typically Milanese menu from finely minced pork and beef meat, and
in our guide to Milan, from antipasto to many types of cheese too. Grana Padano is a
dessert. Actually, from the aperitif, because famous cheese overseas, which comes from
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO TRY 13 14 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO TRY

Shopping

had no specific training. In 1975 he risked win over grey Milan too with its warmth and
again, starting up the label Giorgio Armani sensuality.
for men and women and he was successful
immediately. He built up a close relationship Gianfranco Ferré: born in the province of Milan
with the cinema world from the start, and in 1944, Gian Grance Ferré gained a degree in
was consecrated with his clothes made for architecture at the Milan Polytechnic. After
“American Gigolo”. A young Richard Gere was traveling to India, from where he took his
seen in front of a huge clothes closet, in the inspiration, he started working in the fashion
dressing ceremony scene, that was arranged world, with a rational, structured style that
in a maniacally perfect order. Foremost gave him the nickname “architect of fashion”.
symbol of elegance in the 1980s, Armani is The tailored cut of his clothes and the lines of
still king of world fashion today. his shapes conquered the world.

Miuccia Prada: Miuccia Prada, an anti- Versace: this name owes its fortune to the
conformist who was politically active in the creativity of Gianni Versace, born in Reggio
1970s, took over the family company in 1978 Calabria and who moved to Milan in the
that was specialized in bags and leather 1970s to work in the fashion world, designing
accessories, and revolutionized everything. patterns for other designers. Thanks to the
Her bags became sought-after pieces and managerial skills of his brother Santo, the label
became part of the Milanese landscape. Here Versace was set up a few years later, a daring,
Milan: Galleria vittorio Emanuele unmistakable, minimal-chic style won over aggressive label that is characterized by the
the Milanese upper middle classes in the 1980s unusual matching of colors and geometric
Milan is Heaven on Earth for shopping lovers. and 1990s. Her sports range, characterized by patterns printed on silk. After Gianni’s death
You can find the best of everything in this the famous “red line” made the label even in 1997, the company was taken over by his
city, especially everything connected with better known and won over larger shares of brother and sister, Santo and Donatella.
fashion and design. the market. However, Prada did not want to
Milan has a wonderful history as a laboratory be just a reference point for fashion: In 1995,
of creative ideas: The Polytechnic and the she founded the Fondazione Prada in Milan,
Accedemia di Brera have trained fashion an important artistic laboratory and window
designers and other designers who are famous for contemporary international artists.
worldwide. They exhibited their creations for
the first time in Milan, often creating scandal Dolce & Gabbana: Domenico Dolce and
and revolutionizing fashion with their own Stefano Gabbana, born in the province of
personal style, never going unobserved. Palermo and in Milan respectively, are the
most famous couple in the Italian fashion
In this section, dedicated principally to world. Their style evolves continuously, and
fashion, we will offer you a small selection of is much appreciated by “chameleon-like
designers born in Milan, or who started their “ stars such as Madonna. They made their
careers here, contributing to the great name debut in Milan in 1985, in the boom period
of Italian fashion in the world. of career women, ambitious and squared-off,
just like the shoulder pads that were used to
Giorgio Armani: born in Piacenza in 1934, pad their suit jackets. Dolce & Gabbana went
the king of Italian fashion started his career against the trend however, and rediscovered
in Milan, working as a buyer for Rinascente. the fuller Mediterranean femininity: rounded
At the beginning of the sixties, he left his shapes, petticoats that showed off one’s
job to dedicate himself to creating patterns cleavage, loose, wild hairstyles. Sicily will
for well-known designers, even though he always be a source of inspiration that will
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO EXPERIENCE 15 16 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO EXPERIENCE

Hotels and lodgings Events

forty years. During these events, Milan is

overrun by top models, designers, journalists,
actors and politicians, and become even more
trendy if that is at all possible. The most
important events are the ones dedicated to
women’s fashion: in the months of February
and March and September and October, the
autumn/winter and spring/summer collection
for the next year are presented. There are
parties, concerts and other cultural events
that surround the fashion shows.

Milano Moda Uomo (Men’s Fashion)

autumn/winter (January)

Milano Moda Donna (Women’s Fashion)

autumn/winter (February - March)

Milano Moda Donna (Women’s Fashion)

spring/summer (September – October)
Milan: Castello Sforzesco Milan: Women’s fashion
World Press Photo – from May to June
There are all kinds of accommodation Milan is considered to be the economic and Founded in Amsterdam in 1955, the World
available in Milan, for all budgets and needs. cultural capital of Italy. A metropolis that has Press Photo Foundation is an independent
If you want a place that is close to all been the ideal setting for international events international institution for non-profit
the most important artistic and cultural for decades, that attract professionals, artists photo-journalism. An exhibition is organized
attractions in the city, you can choose from and intellectuals from all over the world. Our each year in Amsterdam that shows moving,
among the several Milan hotels. There is no guide to Milan has chosen a few of the most sometimes disturbing pictures that show the
end of choice in the range of categories: in
important event that are regularly organized most important events from the past year.
the center you can find from 1-star to 5-star
in the city. If you plan to visit Milan during This is the most prestigious exhibition in
hotels. If you must abide by a tighter budget
but you don’t want to miss out on the comfort one of these events, make sure you book your photo-journalism and the works, once they
of staying in the city center, there another hotel in Milan well in advance (at least one have been selected, cannot be censured by
three possibilities: bed & breakfast in Milan, month): the city is literally taken over by the structures that host them. This exhibition
room-rental or hostel. If you are planning visitors and you risk not being able to find a goes on a world tour and stops off, in May and
a mid-long stay in the city, why don’t you room free! June, in Corso Como 10 in Milan, the home
rent an apartment in Milan instead, that are of the famous Galleria Carla Sozzani. The
available for stays of more than one week. Milan, Capital of Fashion – from January to exhibition is free to all.
If you are on a business trip, you are in March and from September to October
the right place: many hotels in Milan have The National Chamber of Fashion was Triennale di Milano
meeting and conference facilities of all sizes, founded in 1958 in the Grand Hotel in Via Set up in 1923, with the intention of being
both in the city center and outside the city Vittorio Emanuele. It is an association that the overview of the decorative arts and
too. Do you want to get to know the area has some of the most famous names from the modern industries, and to stimulate relations
outside Milan, as well as the city? Then why Made in Italy world as its members. It aims between industry, production sectors and
not choose a rural country farmhouse as the
to promote and enhance the value of Italian applied arts. The Triennale was soon found
base for your trip? There are several pleasant
fashion in Italy and overseas. to be the mirror of artistic and architectural
ones between Milan and Pavia, that offer both
accommodation and food to their guests. The Chamber of Fashion has organized events culture in Italy and one of the largest areas
connected to the world of fashion for over for viewing emerging trends. Its headquarters
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO EXPERIENCE 17 18 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO EXPERIENCE

La Dolce Vita

have been in the Palazzo dell’Arte in Parco area of more than 255,000 square meters all they need to do is attract a few opinion
Sempione since 1933. It has an overall surface inside the Milan Trade Fair District. It leaders of night life and they’ve won! Apart
area of 12,000 square meters. The exhibition represents the products of more than 3100 of from the great variety, what does Milanese
space amounts to about 8000 square the most dynamic, creative companies on the Dolce Vita offer? One interesting thing is
meters. In recent year, the Triennale has international market and receives 260,000 that Milanese night life begins very early: you
expanded its responsibilities to fashion and visitors including economic and commercial don’t have to wait for dusk to be with your
audiovisual communications. On the ground operators, with more than 130,000 coming friends and enjoy yourself. One habit that
floor there is the “Galleria del Triennale” for from 150 countries overseas. Alongside has become popular in the last few years is
temporary exhibitions – 1,500 square meters the trade fair, The Salone also promotes brunch, a ritual that originated in New York,
of exhibition space – designed by Gae Aulenti. important side events, whose main aim is and that has spread in Italy, starting from
There is also a permanent collection of Italian to enhance the role of design and to spread Milan. A combination of breakfast and lunch,
graphic, architectural and urban design. culture, and also to protect our artistic brunch was invented to satisfy the “day
heritage. –after” appetite of those who were out on the
Fiera degli “Oh bej, oh bej” – December town until dawn. On Saturdays and Sundays,
On December 7th and 8th, during one of La Scala Theater – from December to from 10 until 2 pm, many clubs in Milan offer
the festivities to honor Sant’Ambrogio, the November lavish brunches: real binges of sweets with
patron saint of the city, the Fiera degli “oh Opened in 1778, the La Scala Theater is cappuccinos, croissants and French toast, or
bei, oh bei” is organized around the Basilica one of the oldest, most important cultural savory food with the classic eggs and bacon,
di Sant’Ambrogio (link to things to see institutions in Milan. It is still considered to or meat and cheese.
– churches and museums) that is one of the be the temple of opera music today. During Another must of a ritual is happy hour, that
most moments of the year that any decent the theater season, it is possible to see Milan: Aperitif “Negroni” the Milanese cannot go without for anything
Milanese person eagerly awaits. During operas, ballets and concerts. on Earth. From 6 pm to 9.30 pm in Milan
these two days there are market stalls of all Not even the most expert viveur from Milan you can drink cocktails accompanied by
kinds, some of them similar to the ones from could possibly know all the clubs in Milan. substantial buffets with several courses,
Senigallia, flower stalls and sweet and cake There are hundreds and hundreds of bars, pasta, meat or fish, in all the clubs in Milan.
stalls, all full of color that attract and amaze. lounge bars, wine bars, pubs, cafés, bistrots, All this for about 5-7 Euro per cocktail. The
The name of the fair comes from term that pubs, wine cellars, live music bars and lots areas that have the most clubs are Porta
the stall owners used to catch the attention of others besides. The Milanese night scene Ticinese, Navigli and Porta Romana, but
of the people passing by. is so wide-ranging and changes continuously, even if you are elsewhere and you fancy a
just like everything in this eclectic city. There cocktail, there is a club offering its happy
Craftsmen’s Fair - December are clubs that are furnished in hi-tech style, hour on almost every corner in Milan: whether
This fair was started up in 1996 and was or that are inspired by the Savannah, with you are in the center or outside. Here are a
immediately a success. Attracting visitors leopard-skin chairs, palm trees and pretend few suggestions of places where you can get
that wanted to look for original ideas for elephants’ heads. Wine bars in minimal a taste of Milanese Dolce Vita:
their Christmas presents. Craftsmen’s skills Japanese style and others that make you
are the main attraction of this market fair: think you are in Bollywood, if you go by their FOR BRUNCH
products coming from all over Italy, and music and furnishings. There are atmospheres Diana Garden
from Europe, Asia, Africa and Latin America for all taste and for states of mind: the The garden of the Hotel Diana Majestic, that
too. the fair is a huge one and fully deserves Milanese love variation, and if there are still is housed in an early-twentieth century Art
its title as the largest event worldwide for any habitués around, most Milanese people Nouveau-style building that is one of the
craftsmen’s products: 100,000 square meters prefer the excitement of the unforeseen best in Milan. Excellent menu, spectacular
of exhibition space, with representation from and new experiences. There are so many atmosphere and regular famous customers
about 90 countries. possibilities to choose from for spending your from the showbusiness and political
evening. world.(Viale Piave 42)
The Salone del mobile (Furniture fair) - It often happens that a club transforms itself Le biciclette
April/May in a short time, changing from insignificant to A former bicycle shop, with a New York
The Salone del Mobile takes up an exhibition cool. Clubs in Milan live on “word of mouth”: atmosphere, minimalist, hi-tech furnishing
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO EXPERIENCE 19 20 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / ITINERARIES

A special day

and exhibitions of photographs and Alcatraz Galleria Vittorio Emanuele: you can have
sculptures. Brunch is truly excellent and top In the north of Milan, this is the largest club breakfast here, in one of the elegant coffee-
quality. in the city: hundreds of square meters of shops inside the Galleria. We recommend
Tribeca Lounge space lit up by one of the most sophisticated Zucca, the coffee shop favored by Verdi and
Cool atmosphere, show business world lighting systems that exist, live concerts and Toscani, with its second-floor windows that
clientele, Italo-American buffet with several international clientele. Clientele of all ages. look out onto the Duomo and the Galleria
inviting alternatives. Atlantique and its luxury Liberty-style furnishings in
House music from the most famous bands, wrought iron, mahogany and mosaics. After
FOR THE HAPPY HOUR a restaurant, a bar and a private club. A a refreshing breakfast, continue on your
Magenta fashionable club opened by the designers tour going through the Galleria and walk to
One of the most famous, popular clubs in Dolce and Gabbana. Piazza della Scala, where you can see the
Milan. Right in the center and with a tasty famous Theater La Scala. If you are fond of
buffet. FOR LIVE MUSIC theater costumes and sets, we recommend
Roialto Rolling Stone you visit the interesting Museum. Otherwise
For an aperitif in one of the most exclusive, The rock temple of Milan. Here, in twenty you can continue your journey. From Piazza
glamorous clubs in Milan. years, just about everyone has paid a visit: della Scala, go on to the nearby Via Dante
Volo - from Iron Maiden to Ben Harper, Black and walk along until you get to the majestic
You must go here in the spring or summer, Sabbath and Massive Attack. Castello Sforzesco. Behind the Castle, you
when happy hour moves outside in the Le scimmie can see Parco Sempione: if you don’t feel
garden, surrounded by its ancient walls. The This is a historical club on the Navigli, the first hungry yet, you can work up an appetite by
buffet is top quality and rather filling. one that organized live music. Recommended Milan: trasportation in Milan walking through the park. Once you come
Palo Alto for jazz lovers. out of the park, walking through the Arco
Varied buffet, perfect cocktails. A very Magazzini Generali Travelplan.it has prepared a special itinerary, della Pace, you have two possibilities: look
crowded place. Trendy live music, sets directly from London’s designed for those of you who do not have for a restaurant in the area straightaway,
Officina 12: Set up inside a former factory, rave parties, multi-media installations. much time to hand, but who want to visit or go on foot or by taxi to your next stop,
a loft style with open spaces and overhead Leoncavallo this city, that is so full of cultural and social the Cenacolo Vinciano in Corso Magenta,
platform. There is a pretty interior garden The most famous social center in Italy, where stimulus. Our 24-hour itinerary includes an and have lunch there. We recommend raw
and a full buffet. It is also a pizzeria. concerts are held by Italian and international evening for discovering the Milanese night vegetables with Crescenza or Gorgonzola
Corso Como 10 artists, and where there are also food fairs life, therefore we recommend that you book cheese to start with, followed by Risotto alla
A restaurant, boutique, bookshop, showroom, and conferences. at least one night in one of Milan’s many Milanese and then the traditional cutlet or a
gallery and wine bar. An extremely cool hotels. tasty pot roast.
place, housed in a typical Milanese house Milan, is not difficult to explore, in spite of
with interior garden. Ideal for a special its size: it is often possible to walk from one Afternoon
evening. interesting area to another, and in other cases The afternoon is dedicated to art: first
we recommend you take the subway, that will stop: we suggest the cenacolo vinciano that
TO CONTINUE WITH YOUR EVENING let you reach your destination without getting Leonardo painted in the refectory in the
Hollywood your stuck in city traffic. Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Corso
This is the most famous discotheque in Italy. Magenta. After admiring this masterpiece,
Models, designers, actors, politicians and Morning go on to the nearby Piazza Cadorna where
other famous people all go there. Commercial Our tour starts with discovering Milan from you will find the subway to take you to the
music and dance floors for showing off your Piazza Duomo, where you can admire the Pinacoteca di Brera. Get off at Cairoli (1
talents. Tough door selection, privé club off Duomo, that is one of Milan’s most important stop) and continue on foot (link to things to
limits. symbols. Why don’t you go in and climb up see - churches and museums). After you have
Loollapalozaa to the roof: you will find yourself surrounded visited the wonderful Pinacoteca, spend a
Crowded, wild and funky. You can dance on by spire and late-Gothic statues, admiring bit of time exploring Brera, one of the most
the tables, drink rum and tequila, sweat and the sight of the city that spreads out before charming areas of Milan.
have a great time. you. From Piazza Duomo, go to the splendid

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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / ITINERARIES 21 22 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / ITINERARIES

Shopping in Milan

Evening Let’s start from the most famous of all the

For a real taste of the unique atmosphere of streets of fashion: Via Montenapoleone.
the Milan Dolce vita you will have to go to This is where you can find, amongst others,
the Navigli area. Take the subway and get off the atelier-showrooms of: Gucci, Versace,
at Porta Genova. Once there, go along Via Salvatore Ferragamo, Fratelli Rossetti, Etro,
Vigevano up to the Wharf and start exploring Loro Piana, Luis Vuitton, Prada, Valentino,
the clubs that line the Navigli. Between one Cartier and Tanino Crisci. In Via Sant’Andrea,
aperitif and the next, you will have the change a street that crosses Via Montenapoleone you
to eat a real meal, serving yourself from the can find: Chanel, Fendi, Armani, Moschino,
rich buffets that are provided at happy hour. Kenzo, Cesare Paciotti, Hermés, Prada and
Continuing your evening into the night will be Trussardi. Via Sant’Andrea crosses the famous
no problem: you will soon learn which is the Via della Spiga, where you can enjoy the
cool new club that has just opened, or which shop windows at: D&G, Krizia, Sergio Rossi,
live concerts are planned for the evening. Gianfranco Ferré, Bottega Veneta, Tod’s,
Don’t give yourself a time limit: Milanese Genny, Prada, Bulgari and Chopard.
nights are truly unpredictable! The equally elegant Via Manzoni is home to
Spazio Armani at no. 31. This is the Giorgio
Armani multi-concept store where you can
admire the Emporio Armani showrooms,
Armani casa, and Armani fiori. You can also
Milan: Shopping in Milan sip an aperitif at the Emporio Armani Cafè, or
spend an evening at the restaurant Nobu, with
We can begin our itinerary from the heart a dinner by the best Japanese chef to emerge
of the luxury shopping area in Milan: Via in the last 10 years: Nobuyuki Matsuhisa who
Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga and Via opened this chain of restaurants together
Sant’Andrea, elegant streets that together with Robert de Niro. For more affordable
with Via Manzoni, Via Borgospesso and Via purchases, there are four important streets
Santo Spirito are the outer limits of the in the city that are almost entirely dedicated
famous Fashion Quadrilatero. This area to shopping: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Corso
contains the most prestigious boutiques and Buenos Aires, Via Torino and Corso di Porta
showrooms in the world, full of minimalist Ticinese. Corso Vittorio Emanuele links
design and high tech, that follow on without Piazza Duomo with Piazza San Babila, and
any nd to this continuity, and provide a begins with the Rinascente, the monument
triumph of consumer stimulus that only a to Milanese shopping that owes its name
select few can respond to. In this square to Gabriele d’Annunzio. In Corso Vittorio
area, that is really extremely expensive, Emanuele there are sophisticated label shops,
luxury is the true protagonist. Dazzling such as Max Mara, Moreschi, Bruno Magli and
jewels created by the most famous name, Pollini, but there are also more popular labels
clothes and accessories to die for, to be such as H&M, Zara and Furla. Corso Buenos
owned and flaunted, shoes that are works Aires, that is one of the longest streets in
of art. Everything reeks of ostentation and Europe, connects Porta Venezia to Piazzale
the splendor of a chic, fashionable lifestyle. Loreto, and is even more commercial: here
Many foreign tourists come to the showrooms you can find Timberland, Mandarina Duck,
and come out full of parcels, because Italian Benetton, Kookai and Nara Camice.
fashion continues to attract and fascinate In Via Torino that stretches between the
the whole world, and Milan is the most Duomo and Corso di Porta Ticinese, the
representative symbol of all this. average shopper’s age is much lower and
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / ITINERARIES 23 24 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / ITINERARIES

Pavia and Vigevano

the casual style is sportier, with Foot Looker, Let’s end our itinerary of shopping with a along the streets and squares, you can see
Camper and Energy shops all here. mini-guide to the outlets near Milan. One the architectural sights from centuries and
The nearer you get to the Navigli area, of the characteristics of Milan that shopping centuries of history. From the Roman Era to
which is the temple of street-style, the more lovers like is the fact that there are many the Middle Ages, from the Visconti and Sforza
the shop scenario changes. Corso di Porta famous-label outlets in the city center that eras to the Renaissance, from Neoclassicism
Ticinese, a continuation of Via Torino that are usually only found on the city outskirts to Liberty style.
takes you right up to Piazza XXIV Maggio, or in the provinces. Some of the ones in the We recommend you end your trip by seeing
is the right place for those “alternative” center are: Diffusione Tessile, which is the the wonderful Certosa di Pavia, that is 5 km
purchases: Custo-Barcellona, Diesel, Miss Max Mara group’s outlet, the Bruno Magli and outside the city, which was built around 1396
Sixteen, Gas and Fornarina stand alongside Etro outlets where you can find items from on the wishes of Gian Galeazzo Visconti, Duke
second-hand clothes shops, shops with past collections and also Luciano Soprani, of Milan.
bizarre objects for the home, handmade Kookai, Valextra, a sophisticated suitcase
clothes and accessory stores made from silk company, and Bassetti, where you can buy Don’t miss
and other precious materials. all the bedding and linen you need for your Castello Visconteo
Milan also has some interesting markets. house. The Broletto
Here are just two of the most interesting and Near Milan instead, you can find the The Duomo
characteristic: McArthur Glen Shopping City (Serravalle The Certosa di Pavia
Scrivia, Alessandria), the Fratelli Rossetti
Fiera di Senigallia in Milan is now an outlet(Parabiago), Dolce & Gabbana outlet Vigevano
institution: every Saturday morning, Viale (Legnano), Timberland outlet (Pero), Levi’s This is a tiny architectural jewel that owes a
d’Annunzio, along the wharf, becomes a (Cernusco sul Naviglio) and Samsonite lot to the genial creativity of Bramante. It is
Milan: the duomo of Pavia
picturesque sight, full of noise, color and (Corsico) outlets, and finally Frette worth a day’s visit. There are many things to
other smells so typical of flea markets. (Concorezzo) and Zucchi (Casorezzo) for bed Our tourist guide to Milan offers two trips see, including Castello Visconteo-Sforzesco,
You can find everything here: Indian, South linen. outside the city that each last one day: Pavia one of the largest castles in Europe. This is
American and African craftwork; new and and Vigevano, that are about 55 km and 35 a true city within a city, with very ancient
second-hand clothes, old furniture, fake art km away from Milan respectively, and which origins: the original center of the Castle
nouveau lamps, perfumed candles and every can be reached by both car and train. To visit dates back as far as the Lombard Era, and
kind of essence, books, comics, records, these cities, you can therefore still use your was renovated to become an aristocratic
videos and DVDs. There are tidy stalls and hotel in Milan. Before turning to the details residence by the Visconti family and then
messy ones where you can go looking for of these interesting cities, we want to spend by the Sforza family, with the artistic
your bargain. The music of the Senegalese a little time talking about the typical cuisine contribution by Bramante and Leonardo da
musicians is like a theme tune, as they pound of the area known as the Oltrepò Pavese. Vinci.
on drums of all sizes, accompanying the You can find dishes linked to the local land
people walking around with their frenetic in all the restaurants in Pavia and Vigevano, Don’t miss
rhythms. where rice and grapes are mainly grown. A The Torre del Bramante
typical local dish is fried frogs, served in Castello SforzescoThe Duomo and the square
Mercatone del Naviglio Grande a light tomato sauce or accompanied by a
This takes place along the Alzaia Naviglio risotto. The local salamis, especially the one
Grande on the last Sunday of each month. made from goose, are worthy of note. The
A large exhibition-market is set up that is Oltrepò Pavese is also famous for its wines: in
dedicated to antiques: furniture, objects for the area you can find the excellent Riesling,
the home, old books, jewelry, and lots more Bonarda and Barbera wines.
too. The market has 400 exhibitors, some of
whom also have their own shops on the banks Pavia
of the Naviglio grande. This ancient, interesting city is just right for
a one-day trip outside Milan. The old city
center can easily be covered on foot: walking
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THE MILAN CITY GUIDE 25 26 THE MILAN CITY GUIDE / Milan Directory by Travelplan

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