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The Microbial Magic of Cheese

Cheeses derive their diverse tastes and smells from the microbes like bacteria and molds that inhabit them, as these microbes digest the milk proteins, fats, and sugars to produce complex flavor molecules. Certain bacteria are responsible for especially pungent smells in cheeses like Muenster and Limburger due to their production of compounds like Brevibacterium found between toes. Strong cheeses like Roquefort, Stilton, and Gorgonzola owe their characteristic blue or green veins and flavors to molds like Penicillium roqueforti and Penicillium glaucum that have been deliberately cultivated in cheesemaking.

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231 views1 page

The Microbial Magic of Cheese

Cheeses derive their diverse tastes and smells from the microbes like bacteria and molds that inhabit them, as these microbes digest the milk proteins, fats, and sugars to produce complex flavor molecules. Certain bacteria are responsible for especially pungent smells in cheeses like Muenster and Limburger due to their production of compounds like Brevibacterium found between toes. Strong cheeses like Roquefort, Stilton, and Gorgonzola owe their characteristic blue or green veins and flavors to molds like Penicillium roqueforti and Penicillium glaucum that have been deliberately cultivated in cheesemaking.

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agubarbo
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We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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122 // 123 The Science of Eggs and Dairy

If the veins in blue cheese are mold, Why are some cheeses
WHY IS IT EDIBLE? SO STRONG
We have evolved to live in harmony with bacteria. AND SMELLY?
With more than 17,000 varieties of cheese worldwide,
The reputation of bacteria as being harmful is undeserved;
there is an incredible diversity of taste and aroma.
in fact, many are beneficial. Traditionally, microbes that gave
cheese its character reflected the microbiology of the area. Today,
Creamy brie, buttery Gouda, crumbly Parmesan, brothy
cheese is made with pasteurized milk, eradicating naturally
Cheddar, and mild-tasting paneer are just some of the
occurring microbes. Of the molds that have survived, Penicillium
numerous varieties of cheese. Within this family of cheeses
fungi are most widely used; they cause the blue veins in
are the super-smelly ones, such as Muenster, Limburger,
strong-tasting cheeses and are quite safe. One of the oldest
Roquefort, and Stilton. The universe of cheese is testimony
blue cheeses, Roquefort, owes its greenish-blue veins to
to the creativity of cheese makers throughout the ages, but
Penicillium roqueforti, the same mold used in Stilton and
it is the microbes, or bacteria, that are the real stars of the
Danish blue. Gorgonzola and some other French cheeses rely
show. The several-hundred-strong ensemble cast of bacteria,
on Penicillium glaucum, which gives a slightly different flavor.
fungi, and yeasts brings life to a bland, salty lump of white
curd. By digesting (fermenting), fat, proteins, and milk
“Roquefort owes its greenish-blue sugar, they excrete a complex selection of flavorful
(and sometimes very smelly) molecules, as shown in the
veins to Penicillium roqueforti.” flowchart, opposite. Certain bacteria have especially strong
smells. For example, Muenster and Limburger owe their
“old socks” smell to Brevibacterium, which also flourishes
in the moisture between toes!

Holes are
pierced into Stand-out smelly cheeses
The smelliest cheeses tend to be those that
the cheese to have “smear cultures” of bacteria or white
spread mold molds deliberately spread over their
throughout. surface as they ripen.

CAMEMBERT
Starter
bacteria
ROQUEFORT

Proteins
Microbes
in cheese PONT L’EVEQUE
As the blue-pigmented
molds feed on milk
MUENSTER
fat, they produce
characteristic flavor
compounds. Starter
bacteria (see opposite)
similarly feed on the
fats, sugars, and proteins
to produce flavor.
BRIE DE MEAUX
Mold grows along air holes, EPOISSES
Fats chewing through fat and protein.

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