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Freeform Statement Necklace
by Gayle Bird of FreeForm Wire Art Jewelry
INSTRUCTIONS © Gayle Bird 2015
PHOTOGRAPHY © F+W, a Content + eCommerce Company, 2015
All rights reserved.
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In this project, we will use a series of top-drilled slabs, along with
some coordinating round beads, to build a completely freeform
necklace with no structural frame. This is a very advanced project,
and you should have a firm grasp of the organic techniques in the
book before attempting it. You need to be confident in making
curls, organic designs and structural connections.
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TOOLS + MATERIALS
•• 22ga wire, about 14'–20' (4.3m–6.1m)
•• 1 large top-drilled slab gemstone
•• 6 medium-size slab gemstones, top- or side-drilled.
•• 8–12 gemstone beads
•• Round-nose pliers
•• Bail-making pliers
•• Bent chain-nose pliers
•• Side cutters
1 Lay out your gemstones in a semi-symmetrical shape
on your workspace with some space between stones.
You want a loose formation; you’ll have to let go of
exactitude in this project!
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
2 Cut 2 very long pieces of 22ga wire; as long as you
can work with, which tends to be not much longer
than your own arm (2'–3' [61cm–91.4cm]). Treat the 2
3 Push the wires to the front of the slab, creating a
double curl and a secure place for the wire.
wires as one throughout this project. Thread the 2 wires
through your center focal top-drilled slab.
4 Continue making curls down the right side of the
stone and then wrap the wire around the back, from
right to left. Pull the wire to the front of the stone and
5 Bring the wires up the back of the stone, securing it
across the front, and up around the 2 wires coming
out the hole on the left side of the slab. Create curls with
create another double curl across the bottom front of the both sets of wire interlocking in opposite directions so
stone. that the wires secure each other.
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
6 Bring 1 set of wires back to the right side of the stone where you began
and tuck it through the wires already there to secure them. Create a curl
and add your next slab by sliding it onto the wires. Create decorative curls
around this slab and finish with the wire on the side of the center focal. Begin
a large curl, then backtrack with the wire and gently push it through the wires
already on the front of the stone.
7 Pull the wire through to continue the curl you’ve
made and connect the bottom of the smaller slab to
the center focal.
8 Add further curls and decorations. You’ll likely run
out of wire at this point, in which case, secure and
wrap the ends using a binding wrap in an unobtrusive
location.
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
9 Attach a slab on the other side of the center
focal in a similar manner: add to the wires, create
decorative curls and secure to the center focal. Finish
10 Cut 2 more long wires, again as long as you can
work with. Slide the wires behind the center
focal, underneath the existing curls, and pull them out in
up by adding more decorations as you like and bind front of the side stones, integrating the new wire with the
the ends. You’ll have a freestanding piece. piece.
11 Wrap the 2 wires tightly around the slab piece on the
right side to secure it, then add your next slab piece
using decorative curls. You’ll secure it more firmly shortly;
12 Add the next slab to the left side in the same way.
leave the wire hanging for now.
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
13 Start creating decorative curls that are free-standing on all sides of the
stones and integrate the ends of the wire on either side. You should be
able to start manipulating the piece as a whole with your hands to adjust the
curve and set of the stones. Look for places where the wires are disconnected
and work your decorative curls into those locations to secure them. Again, the
piece should be freestanding.
14 Add a set of wires to either side of the piece by using a binding wrap
around the outer slabs and add a final large slab to each side.
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
15 Swoop the wire off the end of the slab on the right side and begin
making curls and organic decorations. Add your extra beads every
inch (few centimeters) or so until you run out of wire. Leave a couple inches
(centimeters) of wire at the ends.
16 Repeat on the left side.
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
17 We started from the center and worked out; now
we’re going to go to the ends and work back-
wards, meeting and connecting the pieces at the right
18 Create a small P on the end of the bend with
your round-nose pliers.
length. Cut a piece of long wire, twice as long as you’ve
been working with so far, and bend it in the middle into
a hairpin.
19 Grasp the wire just below the P using your bailmaking pliers and curl
the wire tightly around the pliers to create a hook clasp end.
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
20 Measure the length of your freestanding piece and determine how
long each new side piece needs to be in order for the necklace to
reach your desired length. Make decorative curls and add beads all the way
down your wire until you reach that length. You should have a couple of inches
(centimeters) of wire at the end. Don’t worry about structure yet.
21 On the right side, slide the 2 ends of the freestanding piece into the 2
ends of the new side piece. Intertwine the ends to create structure and
add curls and binding wraps to connect the freeform pieces.
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
22 Flex the side around a bit looking for structural inconsistencies.
If the piece still needs more wire, simply bind another length of
double-wire to anchor it near the center, and add another layer of curls and
connections.
23 Cut another double-length of wire and bend it into a hairpin.
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
24 Create a wrapped loop in the end of the hairpin. This will be the
closure for the hook clasp we built earlier.
25 Following the steps 20–22, create and attach the
left side of the necklace using decorative curls
and binding connections, adding wire as necessary until
the necklace feels solid and complete.
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
Twist, curl and wrap wire into
one-of-a-kind jewelry!
Follow along with author Gayle Bird as
she teaches you everything you need
to know to create her signature jewelry
designs. First learn the basics of color
and design, then move into essential
wire tutorials.
From there, you’ll work your way
through 20 step-by-step jewelry
projects, including earrings, rings and
necklaces. By the time you finish the
book, you’ll be ready to design your
own statement jewelry, complete with
swirling wire and dazzling gems.
features
•• Tutorials on the essential wire techniques,
including spirals, curls and more.
•• Chapter on design gives the foundation for
creating unique pieces.
Visit [Link] for •• Step-by-step directions for 20 projects.
more inspiration!
Copyright © 2015 by Gayle Bird. All rights reserved.
