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DIY Sawhorse Guide

This document provides instructions for building a simple sawhorse. It outlines the materials needed which include wood boards of various sizes and galvanized nails. It then lists 8 steps to construct the sawhorse, including cutting the wood pieces to length, marking and cutting angles on the legs, notching the top board to hold the legs, attaching the legs and braces, and trimming excess wood.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
669 views4 pages

DIY Sawhorse Guide

This document provides instructions for building a simple sawhorse. It outlines the materials needed which include wood boards of various sizes and galvanized nails. It then lists 8 steps to construct the sawhorse, including cutting the wood pieces to length, marking and cutting angles on the legs, notching the top board to hold the legs, attaching the legs and braces, and trimming excess wood.

Uploaded by

ztmp1
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
  • Introduction and Materials
  • Step-by-step Instructions

How to make a Sawhorse

The Plans

You will need...


For the top - I piece of 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 45mm) wood 44" (1000mm) long.

For the legs- 4 pieces of 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 45mm) wood 27" (675mm) long.

For the braces - 2 piece of 3/4" (18mm) thick plywood at least 6" (150mm) wide x 24" (600mm) long.

And - 24 galvanized flat-head nails 2 1/2" (60mm) long.


Step 1: Cut all the pieces to rough length

Acquire or cut all the pieces to the lengths given in the materials list on page one.

The pieces will require further cutting and you will need to work with two angles: 14° and 20°.

Below explains how to find both a 14° and a 20° angle.

Step 2: Finding the angles

Make an angle template by marking the required angles on a work tabletop or


square panel.

To find a 20° angle, measure 1 unit across and 2 3/4 units down (as per diagram).

Note: A unit can be any measurement. For example: if you make each unit 4 inches,
then measure four inches (1 unit) across and 11 inches (2 3/4 units) down to make a
20° angle.

To find a 14° angle, measure 1 unit across and 4 units down (as per diagram).

Note: Once again a unit can be anything. If your unit is four inches, it would be 4
inches (1 unit) across and 16 inches (4 units) down to make a 14° angle.

You have now made a template for a 14° angle and a 20° angle.
Set the bevel gauge to the required angle when needed.

Step 3: Mark and cut the tops of the legs

Clamp one of the legs on its edge to a sawhorse and commence to mark the angle
cut at the top of the leg.

Measure 1" (25mm) across and 2 3/4" (68mm) down. (See diagram.)

Square down off each end of the line to complete the cutting line. (See picture.)

Cut along the cutting line with a handsaw.

Do the same to the other three legs.

Step 4: Mark and cut the bottoms of the legs

Lay a pair of legs back to back on a sawhorse, i.e. in mirror fashion. (See picture.)

Measure 25 1/2" (637mm) along the top of the legs from point a and make a mark
which will be point b. See the drawing below.

From point b, use a bevel gauge to mark a 20° cut line inwards across the edge of
both pieces and to mark a 14° cut line inwards across the face of both pieces.
Then clamp one of the pieces to a sawhorse and cut along the lines with a
handsaw. See picture.

The cut is a 'compound bevel cut' which means that you are cutting a bevel cut
across the width as well as the thickness of the wood.

Do all four legs the same.

Step 5: Mark the sawhorse top for rebating

You will need to make four rebates (check-outs, notches) in the sawhorse top to house the tops of the legs.

Refer the pictures on the right to help clarify the instructions.

Measure 5"(125mm) in from each end a to point b and then mark a 14° bevel line across the edge. See fig.1.

Do the same to both ends of both sides (four in all).

Next mark the width of the 'cut-out' area which will be the same width as a leg.

Use a leg as a template. Hold a leg against one of the bevel lines at point b and with a pencil, mark along the opposite
edge of the leg. See fig.2.

Mark the 'cut-out' depth which will be 3/4" (20mm). See fig.3.

Step 6: Rebate the top to house the legs

Make multiple saw cuts across the 'cut-out' area down to the marked cutting depth
which is 3/4" (20mm).

Three or four cuts across each cutting area should be enough for straight grain
wood, but if the wood is a bit knotty then make more cuts.

The more cuts you do, the easier it will be to chisel out the rebate.

Next lay the sawhorse top on its flat end and commence chiseling along the depth
line.
Do not go too deep initially.
Chisel in a little bit one side, then turn the sawhorse top over and chisel in a little bit
on the other side. Turn the top over again and chisel a bit deeper and so on and so
on, until the chips of wood fall out and the 'cut-out' area is clean.
Step 7: Fix the legs to the sawhorse top

Place the top of a leg into the rebate in the sawhorse top.(See far left picture above.)

Align the top of the leg so that its innermost point is flush with the sawhorse top.

Then nail it in place with three galvanized flat-head nails 2 1/2" (60mm) long.

Do the same for the other three legs.

Step 8: Brace the legs and trim the jut-outs.

Cut two braces from (18mm) thick plywood.

Make the tops of the two braces 7 3/8" (190mm) long.

Mark the sides running out 20° off square, then cut. See top-right
picture.

Fit each brace at the top of the legs hard up to the underside of the
sawhorse top.

Fix the braces to the legs with three galvanized flat-head nails 2 1/2"
(60mm) long each side.

Finally, lay the sawhorse on its side and cut off the tops of the legs
protruding past the sawhorse top.

There, done!

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