Internship duration 30th May, 2016 To 25th July, 2018

Industrial Training Report

Submitted to:
Mr. Saurabh Garg

(Head of Textile Design Department )

Submitted by:
Ms. Divya Kumari
TD (sem-vii)

TEXTILE DESIGN DEPARTMENT

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

KANGRA
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I take opportunity to express our deep sense of gratitude & whole hearted thanks to our
association for giving us a scope to grab opportunity to gain practical knowledge & industrial
exposure.

In this respect I am thankful to Mr. Saurabh Garg , The professor of NIFT, Kangra and as well
as industry internship mentor for mentoring me throughout my internship period.

I am immensely grateful to Mr. Benjamin Hembrome, the DGM-Human Resource who guided
and supported me through every stage of my internship and I would like to thank my mentor Mr.
M. R Patil for guiding me throughout and helping me to complete my internship with success.

Last but not the least I also acknowledge the effort & support of all the employees of Raymond
Ltd. for their continuous co-operation during internship duration & making this learning
experience a truly successful one.

Thank you
 JURY EVALUATION SHEET
The evaluation jury requirement Ms. Tulika Jayswal for completion at Raymond ltd. , Vapi
evaluating her project and fulfilling the requirement set by the Institute and the jury.

Jury Members Name Company/ Organisation Signature

1. ………………………………………………………………………
2. ………………………………………………………………………
3. ............................................................................................................
4. ………………………………………………………………………
5. ………………………………………………………………………
6. ……………………………………………………………………….
Remarks:

………………………………………………………………………………

………………………………………………………………………………

……………………………………………………………………………….

Centre Coordinator – Textile Design

 PREFACE

This document deals with the various details about the process
and working of the industry studied during internship done at
“RAYMOND LTD. VAPI”. This document contains the process,
working plan, techniques, protocols and machines used during the
journey of making of Raymond’s fabric.

It contains the process of making the finished lots of worsted

fabric from the raw material that is ready for sale.

We hope this document would help you to enhance your

knowledge on the textile procedures and internship that will help
you in future.
 COMPANY PROFILE

An Illustrious Past

Years ago, when the Singhania family was building, consolidating and expanding its various
businesses in Kanpur, one Mr. Wadia was in a similar manner setting up a small woollen mill in
the area around Thane creek, 40 kms away from Bombay. The Sassoons, a well-known
industrialist family of Bombay, soon acquired this mill and renamed it as The Raymond Woollen
Mills.

In The Beginning

Around the same time, the Singhanias aimed to broaden their business horizons. The family's
sharp business foresight led to the acquisition of The Raymond Woollen Mills.When the
grandson of Lala Juggilal, Lala Kailashpat Singhania took over Raymond in 1944, the mill
primarily made cheap and coarse woollen blankets, and modest quantities of low priced woollen
Fabrics

The vision and foresight of Mr. Kailashpat Singhania greatly helped in establishing the J.K.
Group's presence in the western region. Under his able stewardship, Raymond embarked upon a
gradual phase of technological upgradation and modernization; producing woollen Fabrics of a
far superior quality.

Under Mr. Gopalakrishna Singhania, the mill became a world-class factory and the Raymond
brand became synonymous with fine quality woollen Fabrics

When Dr. Vijaypat Singhania took over the reins of the company in 1980, he injected fresh
vigour into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrial conglomerate. His son Mr.
Gautam Hari Singhania, the present chairman and managing director has been instrumental in
restructuring the group. With the divestment of its non-core businesses, the group has emerged
stronger, with a more focused approach.

Today, with a 33 million-meter capacity in wool & wool-blended fabrics, Raymond commands
an over 60% market share in worsted suiting in India and ranks amongst the first three fully
integrated manufacturers of worsted suiting in the world.
 INTRODUCTION

A vision finds form...

A dream conquers reality...

From 1925, Raymond Limited presently has five divisions comprising of textiles,
Denim, Engineering Files & Tools, Aviation, Designer Wear, and Prophylactics and
Toiletries.

With a capacity of 33 million meters of wool and wool – blended fabrics

making it the third largest integrated manufacturer in the world, Raymond
Limited (Textile Division) has more than 60% market share of the Indian market
for worsted suiting fabrics. Promoted as an essential accessory for “The Complete
Man”, its products have set a benchmark in that genre.

The company exports its suiting fabrics to more than 50 countries including USA,
Canada, Europe, Japan and Middle East. Raymond Ltd had laid great emphasis on
developing strong in house skills for research and development since its
inception. This unwavering attention to innovation has enabled it to introduce
path breaking new products in the market. Hailed as a pioneer and innovator,
Raymond Ltd has raised the performance and product standards of the entire
Indian textile industry.

The Raymond Group was incorporated in 1925 and within a span of a few years,
transformed from being an Indian textile major to a global conglomerate.

In our Endeavour to keep nurturing quality and leadership, we always choose the
path untaken - from being the first in 1959 to introduce a Polywool blend in India
to creating the world's finest suiting fabric the Super 250s made from the
superfine 11.4 micron wool.

Today, the Raymond group is vertically and horizontally integrated to provide

customers total textile solutions. Few companies globally have such a diverse
product range of nearly 20,000 varieties of worsted suiting to cater to customers
across age groups, occasions and styles.
 The company manufactures for the world the finest fabrics - from wool to wool-
blended worsted suiting to specialty ring denims as well as high value shirting.

After making a mark in textiles, Raymond forayed into garmenting through highly
successful ventures like Silver Spark Apparel Ltd., EverBlue Apparel Ltd.
(Jeanswear) and Celebrations Apparel Ltd. (Shirts).

The company also have some of the most highly respected fabric and apparel
brands in our portfolio: Raymond, Raymond Premium Apparel, Park Avenue,
ColorPlus, Parx, Makers and Notting Hill.

The Raymond Group also has an expansive retail presence established through
the exclusive chain of 'The Raymond Shop' and stand-alone brand stores.

The company today one of the largest players in fabrics, designer wear, denim,
cosmetics & toiletries, engineering files & tools, prophylactics and air charter
services in national and international markets. All our plants are ISO certified,
leveraging on cutting-edge technology that adheres to the highest quality
parameters while also being environment friendly.

The company’s manufacturing facilities are located at:

Indian operations Overseas Operations

1. Vapi Indonesia
2. Nasik Belgium
3. Jalgaon Portugal
4. Yavatmal United States Of America
5. Aurangabad Romania
6. Ratnagiri
7. Chiplun
8. Kolhapur
9. Chhindwara
10. Bangalore (3 plants)
11. Chennai
12. Kolkata

OFFERINGS BRANDS

Raymond»
 Raymond Premium Apparel »

Park Avenue »

Colorplus »

Parx »

Makers »
Notting Hill »

The Raymond Shop »

ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE
 INFRASTRUCTURE

INTRODUCTION TO RAYMOND, VAPI:

Raymond has increased its worsted suiting capacity by 3 million meters, as part of the second
developmental phase of the Vapi plant. After this expansion, Raymond have a total capacity for
manufacturing 33 million meters of worsted suiting per annum.

Modelled to meet international standards, the Vapi plant has been set up on 112 acres of lush
green land with Hi-tech machinery such as warping equipment from Switzerland, weaving
machines from Belgium, finishing machines, automatic drawing-in and other machines from
Italy.

Situation advantages of the plant:

1. Situated in Gujarat-known for good governance

2. Situated on NH8 near to industrial hub
3. Well connected by rail and road
4. Proximity to Mumbai /thane
5. Non polluted
6. Availability of skilled manpower
7. Continuous availability of water
8. Urbanized and literate people

Fabric production: 25 million metre/annum

Fabrics produced: Poly Viscose (PV), Poly Wool (PW), and All Wool (AW)

The vision for setting up the unit at Vapi Unit was to,

4
  Manufacture world – class polyester – wool and polyester – viscose blended suiting at
competitive prices,
 Establish a large scale unit in a backward area, which needed accelerated development,
 Ensure all round socio economic progress of the region and its hinterland,
 Catalyze the nascent industrial potential of smaller towns of the country and
 Provide additional sources of employment to people in and around Valsad District.

The installed capacity of Vapi unit is 154 looms and 21840 spindles. The unit has a work force
of more than 1900. The unit became operational in the year 2005.

The following table briefly describes the various departments of this unit with the approximate
no. of workers in each one of them.

S.NO. DEPARTMENT NAME NO. OF NO. OF STAFF

WORKMEN
1. Designing & Sampling 136 16
2. Supply Chain Management nil 8
3. Wool Scouring 1 17( for 3,4,5,6)
4. Grey Combing 26
5. Converter 3
6. Re-Combing 91
7. R.M.G 1 1
8. Dyeing 89 17
9. Spinning 277 19
10. Weaving 325 33
11. Mending 14 4
12. Finishing 191 17
13. Folding 34 9
14. Quality Control Lab 27 8
15. Stores 2
16. Warehouse 52 11+1(SALES)
17. Yarn Room 12 4
18. Human Resource 9
19. Instrumentation 9 9
20. Mechanical 40 7
21. Administration 8 2
22. Civil 1 2
23. Electrical 16 9
24. Commercial 6
25. ETP 1
26. Product 1
27. Safety 1
28. Sales 1
29. Works 1
TOTAL 1,355 214

5
 Organization Structure and Description

VAPI PLANT

Raymond has increased its worsted suiting capacity by 14 million meters, as part
of the second developmental phase of the Vapi plant.

Modelled to meet international standards, the Vapi plant has been set up on 112
acres of lush green land with Hi-tech machinery such as warping equipment from
Switzerland, weaving machines from Belgium, finishing machines, automatic
drawing-in and other machines from Italy. The Vapi Unit, one of the four
production divisions of the Textile Division,

Address - N.H. No 8, Khadki – Udwada, Tal. – Pardi, Dist. – Valsad, Gujarat 396185
and is located in GIDC Industrial Estate.

Vapi and Valsad city which is 15 Kms away from the plant is well connected with
all places in India by rail and road.

The vision for setting up the unit at Vapi Unit was to,

 Manufacture world – class polyester – wool and polyester – viscose

blended suiting’s at competitive prices,
 Establish a large scale unit in a backward area, which needed accelerated
development,
 Ensure all round socio economic progress of the region and its hinterland,
 Catalyze the nascent industrial potential of smaller towns of the country
and
 Provide additional sources of employment to people in and around Valsad
District

The installed capacity of Vapi unit is 154 looms and 21840 spindles. The unit has a
work force of more than 1900. The unit became operational in the year 2005.
 ABOUT PLANT

Industrial Area 94.4 acres

Residential Area 18acres

This plant of Raymond is the youngest member in the family. The plant is set up
on lush green land. This was the property of Remit Pulp and Paper Mills Limited,
after its closure, was acquired by Raymond with a vision to develop a world class
unit to meet International Standards.

Location Advantages are:-

1. Situated in Gujarat known for its good Governance

2. Situated on N.H. 8 and near to industrial Hub
3. Well connected by Rail and Road
4. Proximity to Mumbai / Thane
5. Non polluted
6. Accessibility of skilled manpower
7. Continuous availability of water.
8. Urbanized and literate people and multi-cultural community with
communal harmony

Vision and mission

Vision

“Raymond the most desired workplace for top talent”

Mission

We commit to the HR vision of “Raymond the most desired workplace for top
talent”, we will strive to weave in the core Raymond value namely Quality, Trust,
Leadership and Excellence in all our actions, & and HR processes so as to make
every Raymond ate a complete man.
 PRODUCT RANGE

The Raymond Group within a few years, transformed from being an Indian textile major to being
a global major. Raymond manufactures, the world's finest fabrics- from wool to wool-blended
worsted suiting to specialty ring denims as well as high value shirting.

Raymond is one of the largest players in fabrics, designer wear, denim, cosmetics & toiletries,
engineering files & tools, prophylactics and air charter services in national and international
markets. All plants are ISO certified, leveraging on cutting-edge technology that adheres to the
highest quality parameters while also being environment friendly.

SERVICES

The Raymond Group also has an expansive retail presence. Raymond's wide range of products
and services are as follows:

 Total textile solutions.

 Fabrics (Worsted, Denim and Shirting).
 Apparels (Tailored Clothing, Jeanswear and Dress Shirts).
 Brands (Raymond’s, Manzoni, Park Avenue, ColorPlus, Parx,Be:,Zapp!, Notting Hill and
The Raymond Shop).
 Woolen Outerwear.
 Furnishings.
 Retail (The Raymond Shop and Brand Store).
 Engineering (Files, Cutting Wools, Hand Tools and Agri tools and Auto Components).
 Personal Care (Park Avenue and Kamasutra).
 Prophylactic (Kamasutra and Surgical Gloves).
 International Business.
 Corporate Wear.
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT.

SCOURING

GREY COMBING

DYEING

RECOMBING

SPINNING

WEAVING

MENDING

FINISHING

INSPECTION

FOLDING

WAREHOUSE
 SERVICE DEPARTMENT.

H.R

ADMINSTRATION

ACCOUNTS

COMMERCIAL END STOR

ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

CRITICAL DEPARTMENT

QUALITY CONTROL

DESIGNING & SAMPLING

 RAW MATERIALS AND MANUFACTURING PROCESS

WOOL SUPPLIERS

 Lempriere Pty Ltd, Australia.

 Swan Wool Processors Pty Ltd, Australia.
 Australian Merino Exports Pty Ltd, Australia.
 ADF – Dewavrin Australia Pty Ltd, Australia.
 Technowool Trading Pty Ltd, Australia.
 Fox and Lillie Pty Ltd, Australia.
 Hebei Yongxing Downs Co. Ltd, China.

Fineness of raw wool: 17.5 – 24.5 μm.

CERTIFICATES FOR WOOL QUALITY:

A) Australian Wool Testing Authority Ltd :

Mainly those wool, which are of Australian origin are issued with a certificate from
this authority.

The fibre properties that are tested, under this issuing certificate are :

1) Wool Base
2) Vegetable matter base
3) Comfort Factor
4) Mean fibre curvature
5) Mean staple length
6) Mean staple length
7) Mean staple strength
- Broke in the Tip Region
- Broke in the Middle Region
- Broke in the Base Region
B) Wool Testing Bureau S.A. :
Those wool, which are of South African origin are issued with a certificate from
this authority.

The fibre properties that are tested, under this issuing certificate are :
7
 1) Wool Base
2) VM Base
3) Mean Fibre Diameter

POLYESTER SUPPLIERS:
 Reliance Ltd.
 Futura fibers.
Fineness of Polyester: 1.5, 2.0, 2, 5, 3.0 Denier.

Cross-sectional property of polyester: Circular and Trilobal.

LYCRA SUPPLIERS

 DOW XLA
 ELASPAN
 ROICA
Fineness of Lycra: 44 dtex or 40 denier
 DETAILED FLOW CHART UPTO DYEING

GREASY WOOL
POLYESTER

SCOURING CONVERTER

CARDING
GILLING 1

GILLING 1
GILLING 2

GILLING 2
GILLING 3

GILLING 3
COMBING

GREY COMBING
POLYESTER TOPS

GILLING 4

GILLING 5

GILLING 6

WOOL TOPS

TOP DYEING
 SCOURING

OBJECTIVE:
It is a process of removing grease and suint and other impurities with hot water, soda
ash and detergent. It is a chemical process carried out in a series of bowls where the wool is
washed thoroughly.

The impurities present in wool are

 Natural impurities –oil, fats, secreted by sebaceous glands of animal skin (wool fat)
 Acquired impurities- sand, dust, and vegetable matter.
 Applied impurities.

SCOURING MACHINE:
Make: ANDAR HOLDINGS LIMITED, New-Zealand.

Model: 1.2 meter Topmaster High Scour.

Scouring serves the purpose of cleaning wool and removing impurities such as wool wax, suint,
natural grease, dirt, dust and other vegetable impurities.

Bales are brought from the raw-material godown and are placed at back of the machine
according to mixing decided. Here the lumps of wool are mixed manually on the floor from each
bale. This wool is then fed to the first hopper feeder, which transfers the material to the double
drum opener, where the dirt and dust is removed at an early stage. After the cleaning action the
wool goes to the second hopper feeder, which feeds the material at a constant rate to the weigh
belt. The weigh belt weighs a definite amount of material and passes it to the first bowl of the
six-bowl scouring arrangement.

The purpose and set conditions of each bowl is given below.

 BOWL1: The wool is washed using warm

water (water at 28oc) resulting in
removal of impurities.

 BOWL2: The wool is washed using hot

water. (Water at 650c), the grease on
 wool surface melts at this temperature
and gets removed.

 BOWL3: The wool is washed using detergent “Alphox -200” and hot water
(water at 600c) to remove the left out impurities and proper cleaning.

 BOWL 4, 5, 6: Thorough rinsing is done in next three bowls :( water at 55oc,

50oc, and 50oc respectively) to remove all the suspended particles and
detergent from the wool.
Antistatic Oil ( Selbana 3001 ) – 3 liters ( 30 % )

Wool Opening Oil ( Selbana 4554 ) - 7 liters ( 70 % )

------------------------------------------------------------------

Total Oil - 10 liters ( Total oil concentration 10 % )

Water - 90 liters

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Total emulsion - 100 liters

Emulsion added on scoured wool: ~ 3.16 cc / gram of wool.

MACHINE PARTICULARS AND PROCESS DETAILS

Tank 1 2 3 4 5 6

Capacity 11000 liters 7200 liters 7200 7200 liters 7200 liters 11000 liters
liters

Squeeze pressure 125 115 120 110 110 125

( PSI )

Temperature (°C) 65 65 60 55 50 50

Chemicals Detergent Detergent Detergent - - -

Detergent Flow- 2.5 1.5 2.0 - - -

rate (Liter/ hr)

OTHER PARTICULARS: -
 Rate of feeding – 700 kg/hrs.
 pH of first bowl – 7 to 8
 Type of detergent – Non – ionic (Alphox -200, India Glycols Ltd.) 11
 Scouring yield – 65 %
 Production – 400-450 kg/hrs
 Dryer temperatures:
 Zone -1 - 75 º C
 Zone -2 - 85 º C
 Zone -3 - 85 - 90 º C
 GREY COMBING

CARDING

Object: -
 To individualize the fibers.
 To remove impurities like burr, vegetable matter, dirt etc.
 To deliver the material in the condensed sliver form with regular weight per unit
length.

Carding Process parameters:

  Total No. of Machines : 2
 Make : NSC, Asselin – Thibeau.
 Model : CA6, 3M2M5
 Working width : 3.5 meter
 Feed Roller Speed : 3 m/min
 Worker Speed : 27.63 m/min
 Doffer Speed : 55.4 m/min
 Delivery Speed : 130 m/min
 Efficiency : 95 %
 Production : 100 – 170 kg/hr
 Percentage of Shoddy : ~ 1.0 %
 Percentage of Burr : ~ 1.5 %

GILLING
Objective:

 Parallelization of fibres’.
 Reduction in weight per unit length of sliver.
 Improving uniformity of sliver material by using multiple passages.
 To prepare a sliver of required wrapping for further processing
 To lay the sliver into can.

Technical information about GC 30: -

Pinned length : 270 mm

Fallers field maxi speed : 100 mpm

Draft cylinder dia. : 30/ 67.5 mm

Pressure cylinder dia. : 80 mm

Minimum nip distance : 32 mm

Maximum nip distance : 65 mm

Draft cylinder dia. (pressure) : 200 to 400 daN

Max. delivery speed : 600 m/min.

Max. load according to fiber fineness : upto 350 g/m

Suction box air flow : 2100 m3/ hr

14

Particulars of oil application at grey combing section:

Passage Nozzle Oil Oil Conc. Bar Delivery

speed
(m/min)

Gill 1 1.75 [ Selbana UN(wool oi) 5.5

– 80 % + Selbana
Gill 2 1.75 10 % 5.5 300
3001 (anti-static) – 20
Gill 4 0.85 or %] 6.0
 1.2

Wrapping of different gill-frame slivers according to fibre micron:

Passage Micron Wrapping ( g/m )

17.5 – 18.5 μm 21- 22

Gill – 1 & 2 19.0 – 21.0 μm 24 – 25

22.5 – 24.5 μm 26 – 27

17.5 – 18.5 μm 13 – 14

Gill – 3 19.0 – 21.0 μm 14 – 15

22.5 – 24.5 μm 16 – 17

Gill – 4 17.0 – 24.5 μm 21 – 22

Gill – 5 17.0 – 24.5 μm 25

COMBING
The combing process completes in four steps, each of the step is explained below.

1. LUBRICATION: Wool become unmanageable after scouring, thus the fibres is

treated with oil to keep it away from becoming brittle and to lubricate it for further
spinning process.
2. CARDING: It is a mechanical process that
opens and breaks up the locks and
unorganized clumps of fiber and then aligns
the individual fibers so that they are more
or less parallel with each other during the
process of opening the left over impurities
are also removed from the fibers. The final
 product of this step is a rope like
structure(called sliver)
3. GILLING: The carded sliver is subjected to
a sequence of gilling process, where the
fibers are further parallelized, the evenness
of the sliver is increased and the left over
impurities are removed.
4. COMBING: During the wool combing
process any short fibers present in the
carded wool sliver will be removed and the
wool fibers will be aligned and formed into
a continuous sliver top ready for spinning.
The waste of the combing machine i.e. the
short fibers which are removed is called
noil.

CONVERTER

The continuous filament tow is fed to a converter and is cut into staple form as per
requirement so that it can be used to spin a staple yarn or a sliver can be used for
blending with other fibers. It is mainly used to process polyester tows.

Advantages of using converter over preparing sliver by card are that in a converter,
fibers are cut at the required length to match the spinnability of the other component in
the blend. Carding is eliminated so that there is no waste and carding cost. Converter is
provided with the gill box, resulting in more parallelization and straightening of fibers.

After converter, three passages of gilling are given for doubling and drafting, thereby
making slivers more parallel and even. The final delivery may be either a ball top or a
bump top depending upon the use i.e. for blending a ball top is used and for top dyeing
a bump top is used.

MAIN CHARACTERISTICS:

The machine consists in an assembly of the following elements:

 Creel with tow spreading system

 Electrical box
 Suction box
 Element for tows tensioning with filaments separating system
 Element for tows relaxing with crossing system
 Cutting element with guiding to the head
 Chain gill
 The Calandering and crimping system
 Automatic delivery with cans of size DIA 1000/1200

Serial no. Description Parameter

1 feed material PET tow
2 Weight of tow bale 300-350Kg 17
3 Denier used 1.5,2,2.5,3.0
4 Cut length 75 / 88 mm
5 Make NSC
6 Model GC 15 TT 12
7 Delivery speed 250 m/min
8 Production ~ 300 kg/hr.
9 Wrapping (gm / m) 22 or 18
GILLING AFTER CONVERTER:

Passage Gilling – I Gilling – II Gilling – III

Make NSC NSC NSC

Model GC 30 GC 30 GC 30

Wrapping 22 or 18 gm/m 22 or 18 gm/m 24 or 20 gm/m

Delivery Speed 300 m/min 300 m/min 300 m/min

DYEING

PROCESS FLOW CHART

DYEING HYDRO EXTRACTOR RF DRYER

INTRODUCTION:
Top dyeing is carried out after the grey combing operation. In top dyeing at first,
sample dyeing is done in which first material is dyed in the laboratory and when the
required shade is matched then dyeing is carried out in bulk form

Both Polyester & Wool tops are generally dyed in HTHP machine. The machine
consists of a apparatus in which actual dyeing is carried out and two kitchen tanks: one
kitchen tank is used for chemicals & other is used for introducing dyes. For uniform
dyeing, circulation follows the in-out system. The packages are compressed together on
the carrier to allow the dye liquor to flow down the central tube and through the
perforation. The machine carries automatic controls that govern the number of
reversals, the rate of temperature rise, time, etc.

After dyeing, the carrier and the packages are removed from the vessel and they are
transferred to hydro- extractor for removing unbound water from material. The hydro-
extracted material is then passed through RF dryer to maintain required moisture in the
material. After then material is delivered to Re-combing section for further processes.

Dyes used for wool are 1:2 Metal Complex, reactive dyes, chrome dyes. PET is always
dyed with disperse dyes.

Mainly dyeing is carried out in four shades:

 Light shade : ( 0 - 0.5 % ) Shade depth

 Medium shade : ( 0.5 - 1.5 % ) Shade depth
 Dark shade : ( 1.5 – 2.5 % ) Shade depth
 Extra dark shade : ( 2.5 % and above ) Shade depth

19

Commercial names of the dyes:

 Metal Complex Dyes: Lanasyn, Isolan, Telon, Drimlan, Sirias, etc.

 Reactive Dyes: Drimalinan, Lanasol, etc.
 Disperse Dyes: Terenix, Foron, Dianix, etc.

Particulars of Dyeing Machines:

Machine HT – HP Dyeing Vessels

Make LORIS BELLINI

Capacity 30 kg 120 kg 240 kg

No. of M/C s 14 14 6

DYEING OF WOOL TOPS WITH METAL – COMPLEX DYES:

Chemicals Functions of Light Medium Dark Extra - dark

the
chemicals

Green Acid Maintains pH 0.5 % 0.5 % 0.75 % 1.0 %

Sodium Buffering 1% 1% 1% 1%
Actate Agent

Uniperol FB Levelling 1% 0.75 % 0.25 % 0.25 %

SE Agent

Finocol Soaping 1% 1% 1% 1%
POL agent

Selbana UN Antistatic oil 0.6 % 0.6 % 0.6 % 0.6 %

DYEING OF WOOL TOPS WITH REACTIVE DYES :

Chemicals Functions of the Extra - dark

20
chemicals

Formic Acid Maintains pH 1.5 %

Sodium Actate Buffering Agent 1.5 %

Uniperol FB SE Levelling Agent 1.0 %

Formic Acid Maintains pH 1.5 %

Liquor Ammonia Fixing Agent 1.5 %

Finocol POL Soaping agent 1.0 %

Selbana UN Antistatic oil 0.6 %

Green Acid Maintains pH 0.5 %

DYEING OF POLYESTER WITH DISPERSE DYES:

Chemicals Functions of the Light Medium Dark Extra -

chemicals dark

Green Acid Maintains pH 0.5 % 0.5 % 0.75 % 1.0 %

PBI Buffering Agent 1% 1% 1% 1%

DFT / PDM Levelling Agent 0.5 % 0.35 % 0.25 % 0.25 %

RC – 55 Reduction Clearing - 1% 1% 1%
Agent
( Twice )

Green Acid Maintains pH - 0.5 % 0.5 % 0.5 %

( Twice )

Selbana UN Antistatic oil 0.7 % 0.7 % 0.7 % 0.7 %

Particulars of Hydro extractor Machine:

21
This machine brings about drying of the wet dyed material using centrifugal
force. The material placed in a perforated drum is rotated at high speed. This causes
the ejection of water particles from the material, leaving the material more or less dry.

 No of machines : 3
  Make : LORIS BELLINI
 Maximum Speed : 765 RPM
 Capacity : 160 kg
 Time cycle for wool : 20 min
 Time cycle for polyester : 15 min

Particulars of Radio – Frequency (RF) Dryer:

Usually after Hydro extractor, the dyed tops are sent to the radio frequency dryer.

 No of machines : 3
 Make : STRAYFIELD
 Model : SS040 / T
 Supply Volts : 380 – 420
 Supply Frequency : 50 Hz
 Operating Frequency : 27.12 MHz
 Maximum Weight : 2000 kg
 Conveyor Speed : For Wool - 3.5 meter/hr
: For PET - 2.5 meter/hr

 Moisture Regain of the

Delivered Material : For Wool - (10 – 13) %

: For Polyester - (1 – 2) %
 RECOMBING:

PROCESS FLOW CHART:

DEFELTER


BLENDER

GILLING I

GILLING II

GILLING III

RE-COMBING

GILLING IV & V

DELIVERED TO SPINNING DEPT.

OBJECTIVE:

In this department the blending of polyester and wool is done. The dyed
tops are taken as per the shade requirement and weight of the top is kept for
processing. The object of regilling and recombing are as follows:

 To blend the fibers with inter lay,

 To straighten and parallelize the fibers and
 To get better blending of fibers with no shade variation

23
 DIFFERENT BLEND COMPOSITION:

1. P/W = 65: 35
2. P/W = 55: 45
3. P/W = 52: 48
4. W/P = 52: 48
5. P/W = 75: 25
6. P/W = 38: 62
7. All wool = 100 %

DIFFERENT MACHINE PARAMETERS:

Passage Defelter Blender Gill - 1 Gill -2 Gill-3 Comber Gill- Gill

4 -5

No. of 4 3 3 3 3 18 3 3
m/c

Make NSC NSC NSC NSC NSC NSC NSC NSC

Model D 3/GC DUO GC 30 GC 30 GC 30 ERA LF GC GC

30 GC 15/ 30 30
TR

Doubling 8 8 7 7 8 24 5 8

Delivery 26.5 25 or 26 25 ± 2 20 ± 2 (14 ± 32 20 ± 20 ±

wrapping or 28 2) * 2 2 2
(gm/m)

Delivery 180 180 300 300 300 220 250 300

speed
(m/min.)

Efficiency 45 55 50 50 50 85 50 50
( %)
 SPINNING:

Process flow chart:

Dyed recombed
RECOMBED tops
DYED
TOPS

GILLING 1

GILLING 2

GILLING 3

GILLING 4

VERTICAL GILL

RUBBING FRAME

RING FRAME

NORMAL YARN SIRO YARN LYCRA SIRO YARN

STEAMING
AUTOCONER

AUTOCONER

STEAMING

ASSEMBLY WINDER

TFO

STEAMING

YARN ROOM
TOP STORAGE:
Tops coming from combing dept are stored for conditioning in the trolley. The
conditionings room is a enclosed one and humidifiers are installed for conditioning of
tops. The conditioning time is around 24 hrs for all wool whereas no conditioning is
required for P/W blend. After conditioning material is taken for spinning process.

The spinning process is divided into three sections Pre-spinning, Spinning and Post-
spinning. In the Pre-spinning section the material is made ready to be spun. This
section has two process:

1. Gilling: In this step a sequence of gilling machines are used to process the
combed sliver/top. The combed sliver is attenuated using draft to reduce the
mass per unit length of the sliver and the diameter of the sliver.
2. Roving Formation : In this process the
sliver from the gilling machines are further
attenuated to reduce the mass per unit
length and diameter. In this process a false
twist is inserted in the material so that it has
some strength which is necessary for
further spinning without frequent
breakages. The end product of this process
is called roving.

In this spinning section the yarn is spun on ring frames. The two main activities for
spinning of the yarn are:1 Drafting- To reduce the mass per unit length and reach the
desired count.2 Twisting –To impart the necessary strength in the yarn to withstand
further processing.

In the post spinning section the following processes are carried out:

1 Steaming –To reduce the snarling tendency of the yarn and to set the imparted
twist.2 Auto Winding – To reduce various faults like neps, slubs, thick or thin places
etc. 3 Ply Winding – Two yarns are wounded together without twist. 4 TFO(Two for
one) Twisting – Imbibe twist by maintaining required tension.
Machine Specifications upto rubbing Frame:

Machine Make Model No. of deliveries / Total no. of

positions per machines
machine

Gill -1 NSC GC 30 1 2

NSC GN 7 1 1

Gill -2 NSC GC 30 1 2

NSC GN 7 1 1

Gill -3 NSC GC 30 2 2

NSC GN 7 2 1

Gill -4 NSC GC 30 4 2

NSC GN 7 4 1

Vertical gill NSC GV 20 4 2

Rubbing NSC FMV 41 20 3

frame
Ring Frame Specifications:

26
Yarn Make Model Gaug Ring Dia No of No of Total
Type e ( mm ) Spindles Machine No of
/ s Spindle
machine s

Normal Zinser - RM - 451 75 48 576 8 4608

Single Saurer
Yarn

Normal Oerlikon RM - 451 75 48 576 9 5184

Single Schlafhors
Yarn t - Zinser

Compact Cognetex 75 48 384 2 768

Yarn

Compact Zinser - RM – 451 75 48 576 2 1152

Yarn Saurer –2

SIRO Oerlikon RM - 451 75 48 576 9 5184

Yarn Schlafhors
t - Zinser
SIRO
Yarn Oerlikon RM - 451 75 48 144 2 288
Schlafhors
t - Zinser
SIRO
Yarn Zinser - RM - 451 75 48 576 6 3456
Saurer
LYCRA
Yarn Zinser - RM - 451 75 48 576 2 1152
Saurer

Total 40 21692
machines spindle
s
Autoconer Specifications:

Make Model No of No of Yarn Clearer

Positions / Machines 27
machine

Schlafhorst - Autoconer – 60 3 LOEPFE Yarnmaster

Saurer 338
TK YM
Type - RM
ZENIT F 338

Oerlikon – Autoconer – 60 4 LOEPFE Yarnmaster

338
Schlafhorst TK YM
Type - RM
ZENIT FC 338

Total 7 machines

Assembly Winder Specifications:

 Make : SSM
 Model : DP1 – D
 No. of positions / machine : 45
 No of Machines :4

Two For One Twister Specifications:

Make Model No of No of
Positions / Machines
machine

Oerlikon - 09 – 0 – S 96 13
Saurer

Volkman- 08 – 0 96 17
Saurer

Total 30 machines
 STEAMING PROCESS:

Program 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Yarn Single Double Single Double High High High High

Type Yarn Yarn Yarn Yarn Twist/ Twist/ Twist/ Twist/
RF RF SIRO, SIRO,
P/W P/W A/W A/W SIRO, SIRO, SIRO – SIRO –
SIRO – SIRO – LYCRA LYCRA
LYCRA LYCRA
( P/W) ( A/W) ( P/W) ( A/W)
Bobbins Bobbins Autoconer Autoconer

Cones Cones

Pre – 65 65 65 65 65 65 65 65
Heating
(º C)

Holding 3 1 3 3 5 5 5 5
Time

( min )

1st 85 85 82 82 85 82 90 82

Cycle

Holding 5 5 5 5 10 10 10 15
Time

( min )

2nd 85 85 82 82 85 82 90 82

Cycle

Temp

(º C)

Holding 10 10 10 10 15 15 20 15
Time

( min )
Weaving:

Weaving department flowchart

Yarn Room

Rewinding

Sectional Warping

Automatic Drawing in

Loom shed

Mending

Yarn room

Weaving is the most basic process in which two different sets of yarn or threads are
interlaced with each other to form fabric.

The following steps re followed in weaving preparatory section.

 Rewinding: To supply sufficient length of yarn on warper’s bobbin

 Warping: The warper’s bobbin are creeled on the creel and then the yarn is
rolled on the warper’s beam according to the warp pattern of the fabric to be
manufactured. The width of warper’s beam is set as the final width of the fabric.
 Waxing: To make warp yarn smooth and to reduce breakage on loom.
 Drawing in and denting: the process of drawing each end of the warp separately
through the dents of the reed and eyes of the heilds.

Once the beam is ready the final weaving process starts.

 Shedding, Picking, Beating-up.

SECTIONAL WARPING

Objective:

 To produce weavers beam.

 To wind the warp end with equal tension on each and every end.
 To produce different colour patterns and also to produce the final beam.
 To produce a compact beam (without valleys and ridges).

Sectional warping is done when one needs to produce some design i.e. beam contain some
different colours of yarn then sectional warping is used. In sectional warping, the warp threads
are wound on the warping drum sectionally. After winding on drum it is then taken on weavers
beam.

In Raymond, sizing operation is omitted, as all the yarns are doubled and have got a good
abrasion resistance and are strong sufficiently. For good abrasion resistance, wax is applied
during warping. Waxing is done to prevent the static charge generation, for smooth running of
the loom and less fly and fluff generation.
Sectional Warping Machine Specifications:

 Make : BENNINGER
 No of Machines :8
 Creel Capacity : 480
 Useful Width : 2200 mm
 Cone Length : 1200 mm
 Cone Height : 160 mm
 Efficiency : 50 %
 Warping Speed : Max 800 m/min
 Warping Winding Tension : 600 N
 Beaming Speed : 300 m/min
 Beaming Winding Tension : Max 3000 N , Min 300 N
Types of WEAVES Use in Raymond
Different Type of Fabric:-

The fabric is categorized according to the weave of the fabric. There are three main
weave of the fabric:-

1. Plain Weave
2. Twill Weave
3. Satin Weave

Plain Weave, where alternate warp threads interlace with alternate weft threads.

Twill weaves cause diagonal lines in the cloth. Simple twill has same number of ends
and picks in a repeat. The direction of diagonal lines can be towards right or left. Face &
back have opposite directions.
Pointed Twill – Effect

3/1 Twill

Made by floats of warp or weft. Sateen weft faced, Satin warp faced. Interlacing points
arranged to allow the floating threads to slip and cover the binding point of one thread
by float of the other, resulting into maximum smoothness and luster.
The move is more than one in sateens and so the intersections do not support each
other, but as the distance moved each time is equal and regular a certain degree of
twilling is formed in the cloth.
1/4 Sateen 4/1 Satin
 LOOM SHED

INTRODUCTION
Weaving is the basic department for preparing a fabric by interlacement of warp and weft yarns.
There are various looms for weaving available in the textile industry. In RAYMONDS LTD.,
there are two types of looms- Rapier looms (flexible rapier) & air jet looms.

About 28000 meters of linear fabric is produced per day. There are total 154 looms working in
three shifts. That means each loom is producing about 182 meters of fabric per shift.

RAPIER WEAVING MACHINES:

In Rapier looms, the weft insertion element resembles a rapier or a thin bladed straight sword;
hence the name Rapier Weaving. There are many varieties of Rapier systems such as single,
double, flexible, rigid, telescopic and two phased. A Rapier in its simplest form consists of a
single rigid bar, solid or telescopic and a damp device called gripper head screwed at its feed
end. Here the control over the weft is positive during the whole pick insertion cycle. The rapier
may be also be of the rigid rod type or flexible, made of metal or plastic tapes. Flexible tapes
invariably need guide meters inside the shed that emerge during the pick insertion and sink back
into the sley before beat-up. The

Rigid rapiers that include telescopic type remain suspended from the fulcrum and may get help
from right upper warp sheet.

FEATURES OF RAPIER WEAVING MACHINE

 Electronically controlled weft tensioner reduces the yarn tension especially during insertion.
 Automatic package switching device prevents the machine from being stopped in the even weft
break between the package and weft feed. The weavers can repair the fault while the machine is
running and reactivate the unit that has been stopped.
 Electronically controlled warp let-off and cloth take up units ensure a high degree of fabric
regularity and prevents all kinds of start and stop marks.
 Grippers are redesigned to ensure better clamping of the yarn and prevent rubbing against the
warp yarns.
 Electronic monitoring control systems have simplified the communication with the machine and
facilitated its easy handling by anyone concerned with the operation of the machine.
 AIR JET WEAVING
The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest weft insertion
performance and are considered as the most productive in the manufacturing of light to medium
weight fabrics, preferably made of cotton and man-made fibres ( sheets, shirting fabrics, linings
and satins in staple yarns of man-made fibres ). But, these machines are not that much
popular in the heavy weight fabrics section ( as, in the case of Worsted Industry) . Though it
has anyway to be pointed out that , technically positive results are obtained at present also with
heavy weight fabrics ( denims ) and that some manufacturers produce also machine models for
terry production. These machines are the ideal solution for those who want to produce bulk
quantities of customized fabric styles.

The weaving widths range generally from 190 to 400 cm. As regards multicolour weft carrier, up
to 8 different wefts can be fed.

It has however to be that the air jet weaving machines require a high energy consumption to
prepare the compressed air and that this consumption rises definitely with increasing loom width
and running speed.

General Operation:

The thread prepared in a given length (corresponding to the reed width) by pre – measuring weft
carriers, is launched through the shed by a jet of compressed air.

The typology of the inserting medium (no mass in motion) permits high weft insertion rates (on
an average 2000 – 2500 meters/min and 1000 ppm).

The air – jet weaving machine requires air ducts capable of maintaining n effective air
flow on the whole weaving width. To obtain this, the machine manufacturers prefer today to use
the system with profiled reed, in which the air and the thread are guided through a tunnel –
shaped reed.
Particulars of Loom Shed:

Particulars Gammax -– 6 –R Optimax - 6- R Jat 710

Make PICANOL PICANOL TOYOTA

Type of Loom Rapier Rapier Air – Jet

Total No. of machines 78 68 08

Loom width (cm) 220 220 190

Loom speed (rpm) 620 630 750

Efficiency (%) 45-100 45-100 45-100

Beating Cam Cam Crank

Picking Flexible rapier Flexible rapier Air jet

No. of healds used 20 (max.) 20 (max.) 16 (max.)

(dobby capacity) 18 17 13

No. of Feeders 4 4 4

Warp stop motion Electrical Electrical Electrical

Method of selvedge Electronic Jacquard

preparation / Make
Models : GROSSE Name-Jac-2 & GROSSE - Jac

No. of ends controlled by 40 44 96

jacquard on each side

Reed space (cm) 165- 190 165- 190 165- 190

Mending:
The fabric is checked and the weaving and spinning defects are manually removed from
the grey fabric. Few defects removed in mending are as follows:
 Broken end and broken pick.
 Floating end and floating pick.
 Loose end and loose pick
 Missing end and missing pick.
 Tuck in.
 Contamination
 Neps
 Tail out.
 Pin points.
Finishing

Fabric finishing is an important process. It is done according to the need and purpose of
the fabric, which adds value to the fabric. With the type of finish, quality of fabric
enhances in terms of appearance, feel and physical properties.

The following steps are followed (in general) to finish the fabric:

 Batching: to obtain sufficient length of cloth.

 Pre-scouring – Washing the fabric to remove any stains.
 Drying and Heat setting- Polyester component of the fabric is dimensionally set.
 Singeing- Burning of short and weak fibers held inside the fabric.
 Rope Scouring, Opening and Drying
 Shearing- Cutting the left out protruding fibres
 Semi Perch- Finished fabric is checked manually for any defects
 Relaxing Machine- To remove creases of the fabric
 Damping and Pressing
 Formula 1- Improves dimensional stability and lustre of the fabric
 Kier Decatizing (TMT)- Steam and pressure is applied simultaneously for wool
setting.

Finishing gives the following advantages:

 Improves appearance – Lusture.

 Improves feel that depends on the handle of the fabric & its softness & fullness, etc.
 Improves wearing qualities – Anti-crease.
 Increases weight of the fabric & sale value of the material.
 Improves natural attractiveness & serviceability of the fabric.
There are different machine passages present for different types of blend & quality.

Raw materials for finishing: All wool (AW), Poly viscose (PV), Poly wool (PW) fabrics.
Different fabrics require different finishing treatments, different machines and requires
different process. The process of different fabrics is:

ALL WOOL FABRIC (AW):

SINGEING BRUSHING CIMI MACHINE

PEARCHING ROPE OPENING ROPE SCOURING

DAMPING FORMULA MACHINE CALENDERING

TMT MACHINE

POLY WOOL FABRIC (PW):

CIMI MACHINE STENTER 1 SINGEING

STENTER 2 ROPE OPENING ROPE SCOURING

PEARCHING SHEARING DAMPING

TMT/KD CALENDERING FORMULA MACHINE

POLY VISCOSE FABRIC (PV):

HEAT SET SINGEING JIGGER MACHINE

PEARCHING SECOND WASH STENTER

ZERO ZERO MACHINE CALENDERING TMT/KD

Machin
e
specific
ations:

GREY SCOURING:

Grey scouring is basically the first washing of the fabric. This is carried out in the cimi machine.
36
In the machine the fabric is washed in hot and cold water simultaneously to remove wax and dust
particles present in the fabric which may get into it during weaving process.

The machine contains 4 chambers in which firstly the fabric is washed with hot water in first two
chambers, followed by cold was in next two chambers.

Fabric Temperature Speed

POLY WOOL(PW) 85 degree Celsius 50m/min

ALL WOOL(AW) 101 degree Celsius 20m/min

Chemical used in the machine during grey scouring:

Serial no. Name of the chemical Function Quantity (in gpl)

1. Aprocon LFD Detergent 2.0

2. Texolux plus Detergent 1.0

3. Nanowet conc. Wetting agent 0.5

4. Green acid pH maintain 50

ROPE SCOURING:

Rope scouring is the second washing of the fabric. It is done in the zonco machine. In this
washing the fabric is again washed with hot water and cold water simultaneously. In this
washing fabric softeners are also added to make the fabric softer.

Fabric Temperature Speed/time

Poly wool (PW) 120 degree Celsius 30 mins
All wool(AW) 120 degree Celsius 60 mins

Folding

FINISHED FABRIC

CHECKNG FINISH

PEARCHING OF FABRIC

LABELLING IS DONE

SHADE MATCHING
 SAMPLING

CUTTING

FOLDING

PACKING

WEIGHING

BARCODE GENERATION

WARE HOUSE

After the fabric is finished it is send to the folding department where the following steps
are undertaken
 Sample is matched with standard fabric sample to check if there is any variation.
 Final inspection and perching is done
 Flagging- flags are put according to faults
 Double fold/rolling on grey board or paper tube.
The main objective of the folding department is to carry out the processes of planning,
perching, quality checking, classifying, stamping, folding and packing. In the
department, the input is fully finished fabric and the output is perched, measured and
classified fabric. Finish of the fabric approved as per the approved hanger from the
product department. Shade checking is done as per the booking hanger.
There are two markets :

 Domestic: - Civil, Exclusive and Stock Lot

 Export, RAL, RMG & Institutional

CIVIL

 Visual inspection is carried out for Indian market goods. They are inspected and
grades are given to them
Types of grading:
 Good
 Second “A
 Second “B
 Second “C”,
 Second “D”
 The fabrics are classified according to the defects, and hence are flagged. 3
Flags are allowed in 15 meters. Up to 5.6 Mets no flag is allowed.
 Lapping – Weighing – Binding – Sealing - then Delivered to Wear House.

EXPORT

 For export market, 4-point inspection system is used.

Warehouse

Once the fabric is folded it is send to the warehouse from where the fabric is finally
delivered to market.

The following steps are followed.

 Issuing- Through scanner using barcode system

 Sample marking- For rate and price declaration
 Booklet making- 24 cards/ fabric pieces.
 Warehouse management
 Sale note attendance and dispatch
DESIGNING DEPARTMENT

To establish system for development and control of new products range.

The purpose of the warehouse department is to receive folded fabrics, Pack,

Store and dispatch it to its destination. The fabrics received by the ware house are
classified into Civil, Export, RAL (Raymond Apparel limited), RMG (Ready Made
garment).

The following are the main function carried out in the warehouse:

 Segregation of goods from folding and shifting of goods age wise into respective
bins.
 To organize workmen for bale packing.
 To ascertain what suit length to be cut
 After analyzing synopsis of sale notes.
 After bales are weighed to mark the bales for dispatch in respective code nos. of
Transporter.
 To load the bales in lorry.
 To stack the bales which are not dispatched in the racks after computer entry.
 To attend goods in export after consulting Export targets for current month.
 To get the information for preparation of shipment samples after goods are
dispatched.
 Samples are to be prepared in folder & white card.
 To prepare export sample folder in consulting Export packing and to prepare
reference sample after the goods are dispatched.
 When the packing materials are received in Warehouse or when issued from
stores it is tested against the standard norms.

MACHINE DETAILS

MACHINE BRAND OBJECTIVES NO. OF M/C

P.P BOX STRAPPING EAGLE to strap pack the 1

material in cardboard

ITW -
P.P STRAPPING SIGNODE to strap pack the material 2

SAMPLE CUTTING M/C LAXMI to make sample files 2

 DESIGN MANAGEMENT
Designing is very important part in the production of the fabric. In the designing department
invention of new weaves, blends and colour is done.

In Raymond’s there are basically two major collections i.e. winter and summer collections under
which comes the different collections like exotic collection, civil collection,mini collection,
special collection, regional collection and exclusive collection.

RAYMONDS COLLECTIONS

SUMMER WINTER

CIVIL

EXOTIC

EXCLUSIVE

MINI

REGIONAL

SPECIAL

A card containing details of fabric construction, draft, peg plan, shade, warp & weft
arrangement, yarn count, twist direction, tpi & tentative calculated fabric specification.
This card is prepared when new fabric in terms of blend/yarn is developed.

The fabric-designing department plays a pivotal role in determining the quality, pattern
and colour types of the fabrics to be produced for the civil as well as the export market,
every season. Any order of domestic scale is attended one season prior to delivery
while that for export goods it is attended one year before hand.

Depending upon the season, demand and requirement the quality, pattern and colour of
the fabric is been decided. Mostly suiting is patterned with plain or twill weaves or any
other modified version of them .Colour effect plays an important role in deciding the
fabric appearance.
 Designing comprises decoration made to enhance the beauty of fabric .As the name

Suggest the designing department is instructed the job of designing the fabric produced
by Raymond. Designing fabric is to decide the design pattern. But the work of the
designers does not end with making design just once. The end customer wants newer
design each season. Invented and re-invented each year. The source lies in the
designer’s ingenuity but much more on the inspiration that he derives from the designs
currently circulating in the market
FLOW CHART OF DESIGNING

Cutting Samples Come From Marketing

Sectional sampling

No.of designs and no of shades combine

some of them send to marketing

sectional

Feller lengths

master card
Total no. Of shades in Raymond’s: 61,000

Mostly used shades: 51,000

Total no. Of blends: 432

Collection planning process:

1. Study of past records

2. Study of recent market trends
3. Create region, study season forecast
4. Research on international trends in terms of colour and design
5. Development of colour story
6. Blanket preparation(100 samples)
7. Sorting of designs(40-50 samples)
8. Final selection(40 samples)
9. Sampling
10. Launching of collection
11.

Some exotic winter collections of Raymond’s:

 Chairman collection
 Lineage line D’E lite collection
 Lineage line
 Renaissance collection
 Estivo collection
 Ceremonic collection
 Tasmania collection

New innovation in fabric by Raymond’s:

Techno smart fabric:

Different characteristics of the techno smart fabric are as follows:

 UV protection
 Moisture management (evaporation of sweat causes cooling effect)
 Silky touch on surface
 Wrinkle free
 Easy care
Techno stretch fabrics:

Different characteristics of the techno stretch fabric are as follows:

 UV protection
 Water repellent
 Elastic recovery
 Shape retention
 Silky touch on surface

Techno fresh fabrics:

Some characteristics of techno fresh fabrics are as follows:

 Moisture management
 UV protection
 Microbial management
 comfortable

Chairman collection fabrics:

Some characteristics of the fabric are as follows:

 Finest fabric in the world

 Yarn count-250
 Highly twisted yarn
 Gives cooling effect in summers and hotness in winters
 11.4 micron wool used

New innovations in fabric using new finishes:

 Chintz finish: for giving permanent lustre on the fabric

 Trimax finish: natural stretch, UV protection and antimicrobial management
 Easy care: wrinkle free
 Intelligent freshness: antimicrobial management

DEFINATIONS

Blanket : A sample fabric piece with one or more designs & different colour
combination.

Colour range: Collection of finalized colours in a blend/count for a particular season.

Design story: collection of finalized designs in a blend/count for a particular season.
Grindle yarn: two yarns of different shades twisted together.
Exotic samples: fine micron wool and combination of other fibers with fine micron
wool.
Exclusive samples: exclusive qualities made for dealers.
New cloth card: A card containing details of a new fabric design; construction, draft,
peg plan, warp &weft arrangement as well as colour combinations, yarn count &twist
direction.
Master card: A card produced for carrying out bulk production. It contains details of
fabric construction ,blend, count, shade, twist direction, warp & weft arrangement, draft,
peg plan ,weight loss &length shrinkage in finishing & selvedge arrangement & style of
pattern .
Quality No. Allotted will be of 10 Digits.

First 2 digits next 3 digits Last 5 digits

1 Sections 19
2 Length 09 Blend code Serial no. is given by
3 Bigger length 01 Designing which is
continuous
‘00001---99999’

Allotment of bulk shade.

Allot 5 digits for shade number.

Allot the first digit as per the basic colour given below
1 - White or yellow
2 - Blue
3 - Red
4 - Green/Olive
5 - violet
6 - Rust/Orange
7 - Brown/Fawn
8 - Grey/Black
9 - Mixture shade
Allot the next four digits in serial order with in the slot allotted for different blends.
For All Wool Series 0000 - 2999
For Wool Blends &Non wool Series 3000 - 8999
For Poly Viscose & 100% Polyester Series 9000 - 9999
Design department performs multiple functions of –

New product development

Development of collections for all the markets- domestic, exports, exotics, exclusives,
RAL, and institutional.
Technical service (determining the technical details of count, tpi , twist direction ,etc.)
To demonstrate the following functionality of Designing Automation System as per
Raymond Business requirements:
Design Process
In Raymond, customers are categorized into following market segments
CIVIL
EXPORTS
EXOTICS
EXCLUSIVES
RAYMOND APPAREL LTD. (RAL)
Regular (civil)
Design prepares a colour palette for each blend to be sold in the next season. For
summer 2007, this activity begins in June-end 2006.
Design issues Sample Yarn Orders to SCM, depending upon this colour palette and
their expectations of what colours might be selected. The yarn orders are placed for
perennial qualities, that they are more confident would be manufactured. These yarn
orders also include “Feeler Length” requirements.
Sales and marketing gives a list of brands and number of light/ medium/ dark shades of
each brand, based on the feedback of dealers/ agents and their own predictions. This is
received by design in mid – July.
The sales and marketing plan is reconciled with the design’s earlier prediction on the
conceived colour palette and fresh Sample Yarn Orders are placed.
From the requirement of sales and marketing, and design’s own plan, designers
prepare”Design Stories”.
Design follows up with SCM and individual manufacturing departments to ensure that
required yarn is available in the Sample Yarn Room.
Sectional blankets are manufactured based on the Design Stories for each quality.
Sectional Blankets are ready by mid- September.
Sales and Marketing selects the shades from Sectional Blankets that it wants to sells. It
also sends its requests for modification to the qualities. In this case Design does the
modifications and the samples are created again.
Hangers with samples and feeler lengths are made based on the selected samples.
Design has to ensure that these are ready by November – end (because bookings
begin in December first week).

Exotics
The process is similar to Civil, except the Feeler length are not prepared and the activity
is not divided into seasons. Bulk is manufactured to stock and sent to dealers up on
receiving orders.
RAL
The process is similar to civil, except the Feeler Lengths are not prepared.RAL may
send design cuttings for some of their requirements.
Exclusives
A similar process is followed except that simple design cuttings are received customer
or existing qualities are shown to the customer.
Institutional
95%of the demand is perennial.
In case of new qualities, the customer gives a design cutting and Design prepares a
sample. If the customer approves the sample, bulk production begins.
Exports
Exports can be of two types- orders from foreign customer, and Raymond collection
made for export market .For customer order, design manufactures and feeler lengths as
per customer specifications. If approved, bulk production begins.
Basically, the order initiation may be in any of the following forms

 Blankets
 Blankets and lengths
 Length only
 Bulk
If the customer suggests modifications to the sample the sample is remade. This is
called the trial.
There is a regural US-Candian collection made for exports. Plus Raymond may launch
other collections from time to time.


 QUALITY CONTROL
Machines in Q.C
1. Steam shrinkage tester.
2. Thermal shrinkage tester.
3. Presto washo-meter.
4. Washing machine.
5. Hygral shrinkage (conditioning chamber).
6. Washing shrinkage.
7. Washing fastness.
8. Infra color dyeing machine.
9. Oil extractor.
10. Hot plates.
11. Grease extractor.
12. Ovens.
13. Dyna scan.
14. Yarns appearing board.
15. TPI tester.
16. Crease recovery tester.
17. Sublimation fastness tester.
18. Tearing strength tester.
19. Spray tester.
20. Rubbing fastness tester.
21. Piling tester.
22. Yarn tensile strength tester.
23. Fabric tensile strength tester.
24. Metric wrap reel.
25. Uster tester.
26. Abrasion martindale tester.
27. Pilling martindale tester.
28. Light fastness.
29. Uster classimat quantum.
30. Seam slippage tester.
31. Ofda (micron tester).

After specific processing’s which quality should be checked are given as follows:
SCOURING

 Grease % - Grease Extractor

 M/C % - Oven

POLYESTER TOW AND GREY WOOL

 Oil % - Oil extractor

 M/C % - Oven
 Top testing – Dyna Scan
 Hauter, micron – OFDA

TOP DYEING
44
  Oil % - Oil extractor
 M/C % - Oven
 Wash Fastness % - Washometer
 DC Fastness % - Washometer
 Sublimation fastness – Sublitester

PIECE DYEING

 Washing fastness – Washometer

 Rubbing fastness – Crockmeter

RECOMBING

 Oil % - Oil extractor

 M/C % - Oven
 Top testing – Top testing platform
 Hauter, micron – OFDA
 Blend – Oven & hot plate
 u% - Uster

SPINNING PREPARATORY

 Rowing u % - Uster
 Sliver u% - Uster
 Ring frame
 Count – Wrap reel
 Single yarn u % - Uster

POST SPINNING

 Count – Wrap reel

 Double yarn u % - Uster
 T.P.I – Twist tester

WARPING AND WEAVING

 G.S.M. and G.S.M- G.S.M. Cutter

FINISHING

 pH-pH meter
 Pilling-T.C.I. pilling machine

PERSPIRATION FASTNESS

 1 ltr.- distilled water

 10 gm- sodium chloride
 1 gm- lactic acid
 1 gm- sodium phosphate
 0.25 gm- monohydrochloride
Keep the sample in the solution for 6 hours at room temperature and at a pH of 4.3 and then
45
dry the sample. After this, the sample is compared with multifiber and grey scale for
comparison.

WASHING FASTNESS
  1000ml of water and 1 gm detergent
 Sample weight should be 2 gm.
 Take 100ml of the above mentioned solution (heated at 60 degree . Dip the fabric for 30
min. in washometer / launderometer.

PH TESTING OF FABRIC

 10 gm of fabric
 250 ml of distilled water
Keep distilled water on hot plate up to boiling of water then take it away from hot plate (for
cooling). Dip the 10 gm fabric in it. After 10 take pH of distilled water in which fabric is dipped
using the pH meter.
FABRIC WIDTH: manually.
EPI/PPI: Fabric dissection method raveling.

COUNT:

 total yarn X length/wt ------ A

 A/100 = count single
 A X 2/ 100 = count double

TENSILE STRENGTH

 Sample size: 35 X 5cm, then fit sample to jaws. Then start the m/c. The energy is shown
on pc software.
 Company name: Statex (made in India)
 Software: EFST

RUBBING FASTNESS

 Sample size: 25 X 12.5 cm

 No of rotations: 10
 Use standard test fabrics
 Company name: Presto (ISO 105X12/AATCC 8)
 Rating is given by company with grey scale.

LIGHT FASTNESS

 Fabric is assembled on frame and exposed to m/c.

 Light fastness: ISO 105 B02
 Company name: Atlas Ci3000t Xenon wheater o meter
 Process timing: 21 hrs
The operational techniques and the activities used to fulfill the requirements of quality are called
quality control. It is the regulatory process through which we measure actual quality
performance, compare it with quality goals and act on the difference. 46

Following are the various tests done on a daily basis in the Quality Control Lab in the sequence
of processing of fiber/textile.

1. Grease Content and Moisture Content

The procured raw wool of sample size 1.5 to 1.8gm is taken with 10 ml of
dichloromethane (CH2Cl2) and the grease is squeezed out using grease extractor and then
 weighed to calculate the grease percentage of the wool. The percentage shouldn’t be
more than 1.
Equipment name: Grease Extractor
The wool is first weighed on a weighing machine (Initial wt.) after which it’s kept in an
oven for 1.5 hrs. to dry at 100◦C. The wool is weighed again (Dry wt.)

Initial wt. − Dry wt.

Moisture Content % = × 100
Initial wt.

Initial wt. − Dry wt.

Moisture Regain % = × 100
Dry wt.
Moisture Content of wool should be in the range of 8-18%

Equipment name: Presto Oven

2. Optical Fiber Diameter Analysis (OFDA)

In this analysis the mean diameter of the sliver is calculated as well as the thick and thin
places, neps etc. the machine takes up 4000 slivers and takes out mean hotter diameter.

3. Washing Fastness
Equipment used: Wash-o-meter/launder-o-meter

2 gm of sample taken, put in wash-o-meter canisters and the machine is filled

with1000ml of water and 1 gm detergent (Surf excel solution)
The above mentioned solution is heated at 60 deg and the canisters are then processed in
the machine for 30 min. in it.

4. Dry Clean Fastness

Chemical used – Tetrachloro Ethylene (100ml)
Sample Size – 10 X 4 cm
Sample dipped in chemical for 30 mins at 30◦C.

47
5. Perspiration Fastness
Chemicals used (to stimulate perspiration) –
1. 1L distilled water
2. 10gm sodium chloride
3. 1gm lactic acid
4. 1gm sodium phosphate
5. 0.25gm monohydrochloride

Maintained pH – 4.3

Sample dipped in solution for 30 mins.

6. Rubbing fastness
Equipment used – Crockmeter
Lab has 2 crockmeters of Presto. The crock cylinder is rubbed on the sample to and fro
10 times.

7. Pilling
Equipment used – Presto Pilling Tester
Samples are wound on rubber tubes and then put in batches of four (2 face side- 2 back
side) in the pilling testers. The box is then rotated 18000 times and then chicked for
pilling.

8. Washing Shrinkage
Sample size – 40 X 40 cm
Wool rich poly-wool fabrics are washed in washing machine for 45 mins at 40◦C twice.
Polyester rich poly-wool fabrics are washed the same way but thrice.
Poly-vinyl is washed for 1 hr at 90◦C.

9. Light Fastness
Equipment used – ATLAS Ci3000+XENON WEATHER-O-METER
Sample strips kept in the machine for 21 hrs. after which the samples are compared with
blue wool scale and then measured on grey scale.
 MARKETING AND DISTRIBUTION

Following are the Brands under Raymond:

 Park Avenue
 Raymond (ready-to-wear)
 Manzoni
 Color Plus
 Parx
 Zapp!
 Notting Hill
 Makers

Raymond Ltd. Caters to 5 types of markets, namely:

1. Civil Market – consists of full domestic market of India

2. Exclusive Market – Indian (Raymond) dealers only
3. Exotic Market – High Value Fabric (Rs.15000 – Rs.9 Lakhs)
4. Export Market – Market outside India
5. RAL/RMG/INST – RAL stands for Raymond Apparel Ltd (fabric send to garment unit
of Raymond in Bangalore). RMG stands for Ready Made Garments (fabric for brands of
Raymond). INST stands for Institutional (fabrics for private companies like Kingfisher
Airlines)

CLIENTS/BUYERS OF RAYMOND LTD.

1. Export Clients
 Peerless – USA
 Hugo Boss – UK
 Cevin Taylor – Europe
 Tokida – Japan
 Taka/Q – Japan
 J.C. Penny – US
 Rufritex –Spain
 Dhirglobal – Europe
 JSM – Europe
2. RAL
 Park Avenue
 Parx
 Color Plus

3. RMG
 Blackberry
 Van Heausen
 Arrow
4. Domestic
 Pokarma Fabrics – Hyderabad
 NCS Suman – Maharashtra
 SMML – Delhi
 T.L. Fashions – Kolkata
 B.R. Textiles – Delhi
 Sanjeet Textiles – Ahmedabad
 Satguru Enterprises – Nagpur
 Sri Ram Traders – Karnataka
 SMALL SCALE PROJECT

As a small scale project in the design unit my mentor made me understand how the calculations
are done firstly and then I did the calculations for the blanket preparation, after that I made the
designs on MS Excel software learning how the people work there in the design unit. Everyone
was helpful and I learned many things. I worked on the random design Collection too and it
helped a lot in improving my knowledge in the weaving firm.
 CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility)
As a company that has always been socially responsible, Raymond has displayed an innate desire
and zeal to contribute to the welfare and social upliftment of the community. Raymond CSR
initiatives in education prepare children for life and equip them to take on challenges of
tomorrow’s world.

The Raymond Rehabilitation Centre for the welfare of under-privileged children was inaugurated
on 3rd July, 2006 at Jekegram, Thane. The centre was inaugurated by our CE, Dr. Vijaypat
Singhania and is the result of initiatives taken by CE as part of other similar projects for the
welfare of common man, under the aegis of the Sheriff of Mumbai.

With an intention of making less fortunate children independent and self-sufficient in life, the
centre provides free vocational training workshops to young boys and girls over 16 years. The
three-month vocational courses will comprise of basic training in electrical, air-conditioning &
refrigeration courses, tyre puncture and repair, plumbing etc.

At the end of the training period, these children will be awarded certificates and a tool-kit,
making them independent to start practicing the skills acquired from the centre. These courses
would be conducted by the finest faculty from Industrial Training Institutes (ITI), set up under
the Directorate of Vocational Education and Industrial Training, Government of Maharashtra.
The Centre will work in close association with select NGOs for the vocational training courses.

Through this initiative Raymond aims to create a network of skilled stylist tailors across India for
sharing of knowledge and ideas, while providing customers with quality tailored garments. The
Raymond Tailoring Centre will train over 10,000 students in various aspects of tailoring
including suit, shirt and trouser making over the next five years. The minimum qualification for
admission is 8th standard pass. At the time of enrolment, the student will need to pay a fee of Rs
2,000 each for shirt making and trouser making course and Rs 5,000 for suit making course. The
fee is refundable once the course is successfully completed. The initial course fee is to ensure
that the centre attracts serious candidates in keeping with the high standards of its training
modules.

51
 CONCLUSION

As I studied about Raymond Industries, Vapi, in detail I arrive at many conclusions relating to
the industry.

Firstly, I acknowledge the spirit with which the industry has provided high quality goods to the
masses at really affordable prices. The company was a hub of innovation and technology,
blended with a spirit to serve the people and doing work manually and not at all depending on
machine. Raymond has never compromised on the quality in any way and one can blindly go for
a Raymond fabric.

Dedicated staff, high ethics, environmental concerns, corporate social responsibility and an urge
to provide customers the best quality goods at affordable prices have characterized the company
for all the past years. Its uncompromising attitude and high dedication have always set
milestones in the textile industry and has motivated a lot others to follow the same pattern.
 REFERENCES
BOOKS :

- Basics Of Textile Manufacturing, Corbman

-
MANUALS
- Presto
- SSM
- Uster
- GC series etc

WEBSITES:

- www.raymondindia.com
- www.picanol.be
- www.ssm.ch
- www.fibretofabric.com
- www.expresstextile.com

The reference documents provided to us by the industry and the annual reports were also of
great help to us. The workers of the industry also provided a lot of relevant information.