CUTS
Eternity by Bolton Gems
UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE:
THE EMERALD CUT
Reputed for its sophisticated look, the emerald cut has less reflection and refraction than
other cuts, though its larger facets are renowned for showing large, strong flashes of fire.
The emerald cut is a type of step was later recut to 58 facets and with large tables commonly show means inclusions are much easier
cut, probably developed from the 125.65-carats. sets of two crown facets. to see – VS2 stones are often not
table cut or trap cut. Most likely, it Famous jewellery incorporating Emerald-cut stones do not eye clean. Colour also shows up
was an attempt to improve the the emerald cut includes the have a culet. Instead they have a rather too well so it is advisable
faceting of the nine or ten-facet Gordon Necklace, its pendant set keel, which runs the length of the to look sideways, lengthways and
table cut and took place around with a 50-carat emerald-cut lowest part of the pavilion. Ideally, diagonally when colour grading
500 years ago. sapphire within a clustered frame the keel length is the same as the an emerald-cut diamond from the
As the name suggests, the of 10 marquise-cut diamonds, 26 stone length, minus the stone face down position.
emerald cut was originally popular pear-cut diamonds, 7 round width. This makes it possible for A good length-to-width ratio is
for cutting emeralds because of brilliant cut diamonds and 25 the stone to have a concentric also important when selecting
the nature of the shape of beryl baguette-shaped diamonds. pattern sometimes referred to as quality emerald cuts. This will help
crystals, which form in the Characteristically, the emerald a drop cut, which gives one a avoid the “bow-tie effect” found
hexagonal system as square or cut has an octagonal table facet feeling of vertigo. The light return in all non-round diamonds – two
longish rectangular shapes. and girdle surrounded by a series of these stones is thus less triangular shadows in the centre
Cutting the emerald into a square of parallel four-sided facets, and important than the effectiveness of the stone where light leaks out
or rectangle therefore allowed for each of these are joined by usually of the patterns and scintillation. from the bottom.
maximum yield from the rough. the same number of corner Reputed for its understated, According to popular opinion,
The emerald cut also comes facets – although, to save as sophisticated look, the emerald the ideal emerald cut should have
as a square, called the square much weight as possible, the cut has less flash – reflection and its length exceeding its width by
emerald cut. The Asscher cut, additional corner facets do not refraction – than brilliant cuts; 30 to 60 per cent. While leading
patented during the Art Deco always continue all the way. however, the larger facets are labs say a length between 1.5
period, is one version of this – The number of facets is renowned for showing large, and 1.75 times the width, a length
albeit with larger corners. determined by the faceter, but strong flashes of fire. of 1.2 times the width is also
Indeed, it was during this period generally there can be more Because it is flat-sided, this cut quite popular on stones with
that many famous emerald cut facets for larger-sized gems. The lends itself to easy pairing with a large corners
diamonds were faceted including usual amount of facets is 49, plus range of side stone shapes. But
the 142.90-carat Jonker, cut in or minus a culet. In larger stones, this cut does have its limitations. Article courtesy of Garry Holloway, Garry
1935 with 66 facets. Reputedly to sets of four facets are sometimes The quality of the diamond must Holloway Diamonds; Katherine Kovacs, GAA;
make the stone more oblong, it cut, while smaller stones or those be fairly high, as less faceting and Kate Wyatt, GAA.
Jeweller / April 2008 17
