Saito Engines Information

The following web pages are based entirely on my own experiences and are not necessarily
representative of Saito (the engine manufacturer), or distributors such as Horizon Hobby in the
US. The purpose is to help new users of Saito engines and is a volunteer effort only. Comments
and suggestions are welcome; please contact me via email. I sell no products or services, and
can not provide repair advice.

Information on these web pages is

limited to the single cylinder engines..

The Saito engines are made in different case sizes that have differing sizes, weights, and mounting dimensions.
The available single cylinder engines are listed below. Engines on the list below have different weights and
dimensions. For specific dimensions check this other web page .
Saito FA-30SH
Saito FA-40a
Saito FA-45S, FA-50, FA-56 , FA-56F, FA-62a
Saito FA-72, FA-82a, FG-14b
Saito FA-65, FA-80, FA-91S, FA-115
Saito FA-100, FA-125a FG-20
Saito FA-120S, FA-150H, FA-180, FG-30
Saito FA-220, Saito FG-36

Notes: The Saito-45S was sold in Europe and Australia but not in the US.
Saito-45S manufacture discontinued 2006; Saito-50, 65, 80 manufacture discontinued 2007
Not all of the above engines are imported into the US
The black colored GK versions are identical except for black paint.

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
New_Engine_Prep.

Muffler: The nuts holding the muffler will tend to vibrate loose after a number of flights,
regardless of how hard you tighten them. The Saito instructions suggest that for a new engine you
should oil the threads, attach the muffler and tighten the nuts; then after running the engine, when
engine is hot, re-tighten the nuts. The muffler nuts are still likely to come loose after a number of
flights. There are several solutions. The use of Loctite 620 hi-temp retaining compound is said to
be an ideal solution, although I have not tried it yet. Permatex high-temperature thread locker is
another alternative. Whether you use Loctite or Permatex brand you should get the high-
temperature versions of these products. Another solution is to wrap some teflon plumber’s tape on
the threads. Another option is to use high-temperature silicone sealant and coat the threads before
re-assembling and tighten nuts, however I have found this is not always a permanent fix.

The pressure nipple on the older mufflers can often vibrate, or blow out over time. It helps to fix it
in place with JB-Weld. The nipple connection to the muffler is not a mechanically strong joint so
you should not stress it by gripping the muffler via the nipple when you tighten the muffler nut.

Crankcase Vent: Check that the crankcase vent nipple is tightly attached. I once had one that was
loose.

IMPORTANT !! The crankcase vent must be kept open to the atmosphere. This is NOT a
pressure tap. It should not be connected to the fuel tank. Its purpose is to allow excess crankcase
oil to drip out and it must never be sealed. It is convenient to connect about 4 inches of fuel tubing
to this vent so that excess oil drips can exit outside the model; the fuel tubing is also useful because
it is easy to squirt after-run oil into the crank-case through this tube. (see also the “Maintenance”
web page).

Note: Most engines have the crankcase vent on the backplate as shown above left. Some have the
crankcase vent located underneath the engine toward the front as shown above right.

Carb Needle Settings: On a new engine the low-speed mixture adjustment is set fairly rich. For all
the engines except the Saito-30, the top of this adjustment screw is just slightly below the top of
the plastic housing as received new (see picture below). For the Saito-30 the low-speed air-bleed
screw should be about 4 1/2 turns out as received new. Don’t adjust this as it is a fairly rich setting
that is OK for initial starting and running. The high speed needle should be set 4-5 turns out. See
the ‘Throttle Setup” page of this web site if you are unsure about the carb adjustment screws.

[Link] [Link]
New_Engine_Prep.

The above Saito-82a shows the position of the brass low-speed mixture adjustment screw when
new; don’t change it because it is preset to make starting easy with a fairly rich setting. For the
plastic throttle arm (like on this engine), the top of the brass screw is about 1/2 mm below the
top level of the plastic housing. This is a good rich starting point if you need to reset the mixture.
If your engine has a metal throttle arm the position of the brass screw should be approximately
flush with the top of the throttle arm for an approximate initial rich setting.

Propellor: Make sure the prop that you use is properly balanced with a hole that has been reamed
out to the correct metric size. See the “Prop Sizes” web page for more information on prop
reamers.

Lubrication: Before starting the engine for the first time you should thoroughly lubricate the
engine. Attach some fuel tubing to the crankcase breather nipple and squirt lots of oil inside, then
turn over the prop by hand several times. Remove the valve covers, drip some oil down the
pushrod tubes, and on to the rocker arms. See also the “Maintenance” page of this web site.

Muffler Pressure: The fuel tank is pressurized by connecting fuel line from the muffler pressure
tap to the tank.

Tank Setup: See the other page on this web site that deals with fuel tanks.
[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Prop_Sizes

A prop size and pitch is determined by the particular model and desired flying style, with the
additional requirement that the maximum rpm should remain reasonable. I prefer to keep the
maximum rpm in the 8500 to 9500 range, some people prefer a higher rpm but greater than 10,000
is probably not good. The rpm with a given prop will depend on the fuel used and brand of prop. A
larger diameter or pitch can be used with fuel that has more nitro. Also some models fly better with
bigger diameter and lower pitch , and other models are better with more pitch and less diameter;
you have to experiment to determine what best suits you. Use the max rpm as a guide with values
about 8500-9500 being satisfactory. Try these sizes as starting points, all are APC brand. If you use
high-nitro content fuel you will probably need to use a larger size prop to limit the maximum rpm
to about 9500. (Note: The Saito literature that accompanies most engines states a maximum rpm
value that is quite a bit higher than my suggested 9500 rpm maximum value. I guess that the higher
rpm numbers quoted by Saito are ‘not too exceed values’, and not actual recommended operating
rpm). The props sizes below are for general sports type flying; if you are into so-called “3D”
flying you will probably want to use a prop with a 4 or 5 or 6 inch pitch and a larger diameter to
get plenty of thrust at low speeds

Saito-30 9x7, 10x6

Saito-40a 10x7, 11x6
Saito-50, 56 11x8, 12x6, 12x8
Saito-62a 12x8, 13x6
Saito-65 13x6, 13x8
Saito-72 12x8, 13x6, 13x8
Saito-80 12x9, 13x6, 13x8
Saito-82a, 13x8, 14x6, 14x8
Saito-FG14a 13x8, 14x6, 14x7
Saito-91 13x8, 14x6, 14x7, 14x8 **(see note below)
Saito-100 14x8, 15x6
Saito-115 15x7, 15x8
Saito-120, 125a 14x10,15x8, 16x6
FG-20 15x7, 15x8, 16x6
Saito-150 16x8 or 17x8N
Saito-180 16x10, 17x8N, 17x8, 17x10N, 18x8
Saito-220 18x8, 19x8, 20x8
FG-36 17x8, 18x8

** My favorite prop for the Saito-91 is the APC 14x7 however most distributors only carry the
14x6 and 14x8. So if you want to try an APC 14x7 you will probably have to buy it direct from
APC. The APC 14x8 prop seems too big for the Saito-91 unless you have lots of nitro in the fuel.

Three or Four-bladed Props ? To use a three or four-bladed prop you will have to
use a smaller diameter and/or pitch compared to a two-blade prop. You will need
to experiment with different brands and sizes to get an appropriate full-throttle
rpm. I have no experience or suggestions to help with this.
The prop must be well balanced. Fox sells metric prop reamers (a 7 & 8mm version, a 10mm
version, and a 10 &12mm version). Horizon Hobbies sells a 10mm prop reamer. You will need the
Fox 7,8mm reamer for the 50,56,65,80,91,100, 125 engines (the prop shaft is 8mm diameter). You
will need a 10mm reamer for the 120, 150,180,220 engines; although the thread size is 8x1.25 mm
for these engines, the base shaft is a smooth 10mm diameter.
If you are using a spinner with your Saito-220 don’t ream out the prop to 10mm because the length

[Link] [Link]
Prop_Sizes

of the
smooth shaft may not be long enough to extend through the prop. First ream out the prop to 8mm,
then use
a 10mm reamer just a little on the back-side of the prop to get it to fit.

EZ Decathalon: Saito-80 with APC 12x9 prop. For reasons of ground clearance a 12 inch prop
was used. This engine is also OK with a 13x6 or 13x8 prop.

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Prop_Nuts

Washer and nuts for Saito 120,150,180: On the left side

of this page shows the lock-nut prop washer system.
Above are shown a different type of washer and nut. On
Above: Washer, prop nut and the left in the above picture is the washer and nut that
smaller lock nut for Saito came with all older engines. The washer has a concave
120,150,180. This is part center part that matches the convex portion of the mating
number ‘170R3-28’. Note: nut. The Saito part numbers are 120-28A or
the washer is flat on the SAI270T28A The bag on the right in the picture above
surface where the flat surface contains a similar nut but is longer and is called ‘Prop
of the nut comes in contact. Nut for Spinner’ on the package and is Saito part number
120-29 or 120S-29; the Horion Hobby part number is
SAI120S29. These spinner prop nuts have a 5mm tapped
thread and are ideal for Tru-Turn spinners. Horizon
Hobby sells the matching prop washer alone; it is Saito
part number 130T-137 and Horizon Hobby part number
SAI130T137.

USING A SPINNER: Plastic spinners are unsuitable for engines like the Saito-91 and
larger; plastic spinners can be used with care on the larger engines, however a backfire may
break the spinner. TruTurn spinners work well for these bigger engine sizes and these are
attached via a 5mm bolt through the front of the spinner. The adapter nut may be purchased
from Tru-Turn for all Saito engines. Alternatively, for the 100, 120, 150, 180 you can use
the above Saito ‘prop nut for spinner’ (part 120S-29) and matching prop washer (part
130T-137) and you will not need the Tru-Turn adapter; however there is no lock nut with
this option, and you are likely to lose the nut and spinner if the engine backfires in the air.

Thread size for the Saito-30 and Saito-40 is 1/4-28 --- all other Saito engines use metric
thread sizes. The thread size for the 50,56,65,72,80,82,91 engines is [Link] thread size
for the 100, 120,150,180 engines is 8x1.25 mm

Tru-Turn Spinner Adapters: Tru-Turn make nuts and spinner adapters that are suitable for
Saito engines. When using the Tru-Turn adapter a single Saito prop nut may possibly be
used first, then a Tru-Turn adapter nut may be added which acts as a jam nut, and as a
receptacle for a 5mm (or 10-32) bolt to hold the spinner. However this usually won’t work
for most props that are too thick. For engines with thick props there may be too little thread
for both a Saito nut/washer plus an adapter nut to hold a spinner.

65, 72, 80, 82, 91 Engines: These engines use a 7x1 mm thread. Use Tru-Turn Adapter
Kit TT-0718-A (7x1.0mm/8mm); this adapter does not have a jam nut. Another adapter
TT-0717A has a jam nut and is the one recommended on the Tru-Turn web site.

100, 120, 125, 150, 180, 220 engines: These engines use a 8x1.25 mm thread. The 180,
and new updated 150 engines (possibly also 120’s ???) now have slightly longer propshafts.

[Link] [Link]
Prop_Nuts

The older short lengths are about 3.8 cm from prop hub to tip of the propshaft, whereas the
newer engines are 4.2 cm length. Depending on the thickness of your prop, and the
particular propshaft length, you may need either of two Tru-Turn adapters (a) the TT-0822-
A (probably better for shorter shafts), or (b) TT-0823-A (maybe better for longer shafts on
150 and 180 engines); these adapters include washer and lock-nuts and you won’t need the
Saito nut and washer that came with the engine. Overall, getting a spinner to fit with the
right adapter and right length bolt can be a real pain. Chances are that the TT-0823-A
adapter will work for you; if you have a very thick prop you may have to try the TT-0822-
A version. The adapter TT-0825A will also work but does not have a jam nut.

The bolt (5mm thread) that comes with Tru-Turn spinners maybe the wrong length for your
particular setup and getting a suitable size replacement can be a challenge.

Another way to hold the spinner on the 120/150/180 engines is to use the Saito washer and
nut part number 120S-29. This is a large nut that includes a 5mm threaded hole for the prop
bolt to attach. This works well with Tru-Turn spinners but there is no lock nut.

Saito-150 Saito-150 with old-style

muffler
[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Fuel_Tank

SIZE: Do not use a tank that is too big if you plan to use muffler pressure because there will be
a significant difference between mixture values at the beginning and end of the tank. The sizes
below are about right and provide a fair bit of reserve. Somewhat smaller sizes can also be used
if you are careful by not running too rich and/or limiting flight times, and/or not flying
continually with full throttle. The best tank sizes therefore depend somewhat on personal tastes.

Saito 30, 40 6-8 oz

Saito 50, 56 8-12 oz
Saito 65, 72, 80, 82a, 91,100 14-18 oz
Saito 120, 150 18-20 oz
Saito 180 20 - 24oz
Saito 220 24 - 30 oz

At full throttle the Saito-180 uses a little under 2 oz per minute of fuel. Assuming one needs
about 15 minutes of running time per flight, a 24 oz tank provides plenty of reserve because the
engine is probably not normally operated continually at full throttle. However, most people
don’t fly with continuous full throttle, so you can get by with a smaller tank say 18-20oz

Another factor is the needle setting. A richer mixture, will naturally use more fuel.

The Graupner tanks (sold by Hobby Lobby) are excellent but only available in larger sizes.
However, in my opinion, the tubing and clunk hole diameter are a little too thin for the Saito-
180

If you are paranoid about leaking tanks, you should consider coating the exterior stopper area
with Goop. However don’t do this unless you are sure you will no t need to ever disassemble the

[Link] [Link]
Fuel_Tank

A Tank Tip:
Sometimes an engine will just not run right. In many cases the problem is the fuel system, viz
tank, kinked fuel lines, clunk hole too small, junk in tank etc. To determine if you have an
engine problem or fuel tank problem try this. Get another tank that you know is good and
temporarily tape it to the side of the fuselage just behind the engine with the height of the carb
level with the mid-level of the tank. Try using masking tape to attach the temporary tank. Now
disconnect the old tank and connect up the temporary tank. Start the engine and see if your
problem goes away. The larger engines like the 150 and 180 are best with 1/8 ID fuel tubing;
use a large diameter clunk hole and tubing on your test tank if you are checking a 150 or 180
engine.
(... so what do you say about that idea ? ...... “tanks a lot”)
tank.

TANK POSITION: Keep the center-line of the tank close to the level of the carb spray-bar (or
a little lower), and also keep it as close as possible to the rear of the engine. With a properly
located tank the engine will run fine with muffler pressure. If you use an appropriate fuel pump,
or the Cline regulator, the tank position is not so important.

FUEL TUBING: “Normal” or “Standard” size fuel tubing has 3/32 inside diameter; it will
work OK for all Saito engines provided you have a conventional tank setup; ie the tank is just
behind the engine. However, if you are using a larger engine (150 size or bigger) with a long
length of fuel tubing (eg the tank back over the CG) make sure there is no restriction on fuel
flow and I prefer “Large” size (1/8” ID) tubing for those larger engines when using longer fuel
lines. Also when using the larger engines make sure the hole in the clunk is not too small (ie it
should be about 1/8 ID), and if you use a fuel filler valve it is better to use a large size one such
as the large Dubro model. If you are using the Cline pressure pump system the tank pressure is
quite large and the thin 3/32 ID tubing is adequate.

The symptom of insufficient fuel flow is evident at full throttle if you are unable to get a rich
setting by fully opening the needle valve. There might be a number of reasons for constrictions
so don’t assume it is only the tubing.

FUEL FILTER

Sullivan filters are very good. The larger one is well-suited for 120,150,180 engines.

[Link] [Link]
Fuel_Tank

Saito Filter

[Link] [Link]
Fuel_Tank

How to Make a High-Flow Fuel Tank:

The Saito 180, and 220 engines need an unrestricted fuel flow. Regular size 3/32 tubing may not
be adequate, particularly if the tank is back over the wing and the length of fuel tubing from
tank to carb is quite long. First, get a Sullivan or Dubro tank of the appropriate size. Next buy a
Sullivan “Super Klunk” (part No 396); this clunk is much heavier than the normal sizes and has
a large hole for the fuel flow. Next get a Sullivan “Large Capacity Tank Stopper” (part No
479); this is a new stopper that fits both Sullivan and Dubro tanks and comes with a large 3/16”
fuel feed. Assemble the tank and use 1/8” ID (or even better 5/32” ID) silicone tubing to
connect up the clunk. Connect the tank to engine using 1/8” or 5/32” tubing. If you use 5/32”
tubing from the tank to the engine you will find the tubing too big for the carb inlet nipple so
you will have to use a step-down fitting (Sullivan part No 485) to convert from 5/32 to 1/8 just
before the carb. Coating the outside of the tank stopper with Gunk will ensure the tank won’t
ever leak. You can get 5/32” (4mm) line from Sullivan (Part No S221), and 1/8” ID tubing from
Prather Products (Part No 7090).
[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Fuel

A fuel with 10 to 15% nitro is fine, however higher nitro content (up to 30%) is suggested
by Horizon Hobby to be OK (see also the section ‘Special Tricks’). More nitro does provide
more power but the fuel cost does substantially increase with higher nitro.

Nitro content greater than 15% is not necessary. If you can afford to buy fuel with 20-30%
nitro a bit more power is available, however you might be better off buying a larger engine,
or a lighter model, if you are that desperate for more power.

The oil content recommended by Saito and Horizon Hobby is 20%. Horizon Hobby state
that oil that is a blend of castor and synthetic is acceptable. Saito instructions (that no longer
accompanies engines sold in the US) say the following: “Since the four-stroke engine has
high exhaust temperature and carbon is apt to accumulate when castor oil type lubricants are
used, avoid using fuel containing them.” This seems to imply Saito recommends fuel with
no castor at all.

It is not clear that 20% total oil content is really needed as 15-18% seems to work fine and
is common with commercial fuels labeled for 4-stroke engines. It is really also unclear that
all-synthetic, or a blend of castor-synthetic, is preferred; both are probably OK, however no
more than 5% castor with the remainder synthetic oil is usually recommended. Byron 4-
stroke fuel has a total oil content of 16% with about 3% castor and the remainder synthetic.

I have heard from some European Saito flyers who are mixing their own fuel with 10% total
oil content. No adverse effects have been reported. However 15% to 20 % is a safer blend.

In summary, any commercial 2-stroke or 4-stroke fuel should be fine, provided you make
sure the castor oil content is low, with mostly synthetic oil. The only difference between
commercial 2-stroke fuels and 4-stroke fuels is the total oil content (4-stroke fuels typically
have 2-3 % less total oil content compared to 2-stroke fuels).

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Glow Plugs

It is probably best to use the

Hangar-9 plug that comes with the
new Saito engines or the OS Type-
F plug. At left is the Hangar-9
HAN3011 plug sold by Horizon
Hobbies. It has the letter ‘H’
stamped on the plug. On the right
is the OS Type-F plug that has the
letter ‘F’ stamped on the side. The
OS plug might come in two
package types but is the same plug.

At right you can see

the difference between
the HAN3010 plug and
the newer HAN3011
plug that is now
distributed with new
engines.

HAN3010 HAN3011

Hangar-9 / McCoy plug that formerly came Saito P2 plug. This is similar to
with new Saito engines. HAN3010 This plug HAN3010 but with black colored body.
no longer seems to be sold and has been This plug does not seem to be available
replaced by the HAN-3011 now.

Older Saito engines had literature that mentioned Saito P2 and P3 glow-plugs. I was
unable to distinguish between P2 and P3 plugs, and they seemed to be identical to the US-
made McCoy plugs. Until recently engines sold in the US had Hangar-9 plugs (HAN3010)
that also seem to be made by McCoy, but new engines now have the HAN3011 plug that
is made in Taiwan and looks like it is from a different manufacturer. The Thunderbolt 4-
cycle plugs (from HobbyPeople) also seem to be made by McCoy. Many people report
improved performance after switching from the Saito plug to the OS F-type plug - if you
are having trouble with your engine first try installing a new OS F-type plug. However, I
have always been able to successfully use the standard plug that came with the engine
with no real complaints, however I now mostly use only the OS F-type plug out of habit,

[Link] [Link]
Glow Plugs

not because others don’t work. It is best to keep an open mind regarding plug type
because the fuel type and prop has some effect on the optimum plug, and you should be
prepared to try different types if you are not happy with what you now use.

The English MaxFlash No7 plug seems to work as well as the OS and Hangar-9 plugs.
The MaxFlash plugs come in a variety of heat options; the number 7 version, which is the
hottest, seems best in my experience for the Saito engines, although you may like to try a
cooler plug, ie No 5 or No 6 if you use fuel with lots of nitro.

Other plugs that may work for you are shown below.

The K&B four stroke

plug (KB-4C) should
work OK

The Sonictronics plug looks like a

re-packaged McCoy plug

IMPORTANT NOTE:
Do not over-tighten glowplugs, Do not remove a glowplug to add after-run oil except for
possible long-term storage (after-run oil should normally be added via the crankcase vent).
Frequent removal and over-tightening of glowplugs increases the probability of stripped or
cross-threads. There is usually never a need to inspect a glowplug and you can expect them to
last for several years in a 4-stroke engine that is properly run a little rich..

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Throttle Setup

Make sure you know where the

carb adjustments are for the
high-speed and low-speed
mixture settings. All engines
except the Saito-30 have the
similar carb type.

High-Speed Mixture Adjustment:

For all engines, the mixture
becomes leaner when you turn
adjustment inward (clockwise)

Low-Speed Mixture Adjustment:

(a) For Saito-30 with air-bleed
carb, turning screw inward
(clockwise) closes the air-hole
and makes the mixture richer.
(b) For all other engines turning
adjustment screw inward
(clockwise) make the mixture
leaner.

CARB ADJUSTMENTS

It is assumed here that if you have a new engine you have already run it at
low rpm (4000 maximum) at the rich setting as explained in the instruction
manual; this rich low-rpm setting should be used for 15-20 minutes. The
final carb mixture settings can then be done as explained below, however
40 - 50 minutes subsequent run time (after the intial 15-20 minutes on a
new engine) will probably be necessary to get a final setting with a low idle
rpm..

INITIAL SETTING FOR A NEW ENGINE OR ONE THAT IS OUT OF

ADJUSTMENT:
(a)High-speed mixture: Set the main high-speed mixture needle valve to the
value recommended in the instructions. If you have no instruction manual
about 4 turns out will be OK; this is quite a rich setting and the particular
value won’t affect the ability of the engine to start because it is the low-speed
mixture setting that affects the starting.

(b) Low-Speed Mixture: The low-speed needle should already be set about
right (ie somewhat rich) for new engines as they come out of the box. If
unsure about the initial setting adjust the needle so that the top is flush with
the throttle arm level; this is good starting point for all engines except the
Saito-30. For the Saito-30 turn the low-speed mixture all the way in, then
turn it out 4 1/2 turns; this is a good starting point for that engine.

[Link] [Link]
Throttle Setup

For the following procedures a tachometer is highly recommended although

not absolutely necessary for setting the final carb mixture settings. If it is your
first four-stroke engine you should get a tachometer. before you go any
further.

1. START the engine at low throttle and let it warm up for a minute or two.
When starting, the throttle (carb opening) should be set somewhere from
slightly above idle setting to not more than about 1/4 throttle. After the engine
starts set the throttle trim (on the transmitter) for a low reliable idle speed
(about 2200-2500 rpm or the lowest reliable rpm you can get) when the
transmitter throttle stick is all the way back at the lowest throttle setting. Do
not attempt to adjust the low-speed mixture needle (step 3 below) until you
have set the high-speed full-throttle mixture (step 2 below)

2. HIGH SPEED ADJUSTMENT

(a) Leave the glow driver on. Set full throttle (move transmitter stick all the
way forward) and adjust the main high-speed mixture needle adjustment for
maximum rpm by slowly turning in clockwise to lean the mixture. The
maximum rpm is difficult to hear by ear and a tachometer is usually
necessary. As you slowly lean the mixture (turning needle in - clockwise) the
rpm will increase; you will find a point where the rpm is fairly constant as you
lean the mixture, then further leaning will make the engine rpm drop, or the
engine will stop, or it might backfire. At the point where the rpm starts to
become relatively constant, stop leaning the mixture. Then richen the mixture
a little by turning out from the peak rpm setting; ideally this point should be
about 200-300 rpm slower than the maximum rpm. Do not lean the mixture
too far past the maximum rpm point; doing so will make the engine stop, and
possibly backfire and throw the prop off. If in doubt keep a slightly rich
setting. FOR SAFETY REASONS ALWAYS GET BEHIND THE ENGINE
WHEN TESTING FULL THROTTLE.
At this time the engine should run without the glow igniter so remove it. Then
re-check the high-speed mixture setting at full throttle because it may be a
little different with the glow-plug igniter off.

3. LOW SPEED AND MID-RANGE ADJUSTMENT

The low-speed throttle mixture is controlled by the low-speed needle in the

center of the throttle arm (except for Saito-30 that has the low-speed mixture
adjustment screw elsewhere - see picture above). Do not touch the high-speed
needle setting at this time. This low-speed mixture adjustment affects the the
low-range throttle mixture; it has minimal effect on the mixture for about 1/2
speed throttle and higher full-throttle mixture. You want the leanest possible
low-speed mixture setting so that the engine does not die when the throttle
stick is quickly advanced from lowest to full throttle. To accomplish this, first
(using the throttle trim on your transmitter) set the idle rpm (keeping the
throttle stick full back) to the lowest rpm that the engine will reliably run with
low throttle (ideally about 2300-2500 rpm but initially you may not get much
lower than 3000 rpm or so). Then quickly advance the transmitter throttle
stick to 1/2 throttle; then try repeating from idle to full throttle; the mixture
should be a bit rich at this time and the engine should probably hesitate a bit
as it picks up rpm. (If it instantly dies the mixture is too lean, then richen up
the mixture by opening one turn and start again).

Assuming you are starting with an overly rich mixture (needle top near flush
with top of throttle arm) lean the mixture by turning in clockwise 1/8 turn,
then try advancing the throttle again. Keep doing this in steps of 1/8 turn in
(leaner) until the engine quits when you rapidly advance the throttle stick;
then richen (turn out counter-clockwise) 1/8 turn. The initial low-speed
needle for a new engine is typically quite rich, so expect to turn it in about a
turn or so, but do it in steps of 1/8 turn at a time. Note: for the Saito-30 the
same procedure applies except you turn the screw counter-clockwise to make
the low-speed mixture leaner. On new engines the low-speed mixture is set
fairly rich, so it may take a fairly large number of 1/8 turns in to get to the

[Link] [Link]
Throttle Setup

best setting.

You will notice that as you lean the low-speed needle mixture the low speed
idle rpm will increase, so the throttle trim on your transmitter should be reset
as necessary for a lowest rpm value of about 2200 - 2500 -- or whatever is a
reliable lowest rpm value that the engine won’t quit. Don’t try to get the idle
rpm below about 2200-2400 for a new engine.

The objective is to get the leanest possible low-speed needle setting such that
the engine does not quit when you quickly advance from lowest throttle idle to
about 1/2 throttle, and also will not quit when quickly advanced from idle to
full throttle. Remember - you are adjusting the fuel mixture setting with the
low-speed needle to get reliable operation - you must not consider adjusting
the low speed needle to set the low-speed rpm. The value of the idle rpm is set
with the throttle stick on your transmitter full back and then adjusting the
throttle trim on your transmitter - initially don’t try setting this too low or else
the engine may quit because the engine is getting too little of the fuel-air
mixture and not because the mixture is wrong. Set the transmitter trim for
about 2200-2400 idle rpm speed for a new engine (or whatever value you feel
is reliable). After about 40 minutes time on a new engine I can usually get a
good reliable idle of about 2100-2300 rpm with some variation between
engines; this is enough time on a new engine to carefully begin flying. After 2
or 3 gallons of fuel you should be able to get a new engine to run reliably a
bit lower rpm in the 2000 rpm range and still accelerate to full throttle without
quitting. However, the throttle and idle performance will depend on your prop,
fuel, and how carefully you set it up the needles. Most models will land quite
well with an idle rpm in the range 2200-2500 so don’t get too ambitious
trying to for a super low idle speed.

It will not be easy to set the low-speed needle setting properly if the high-
speed needle is not first set correctly because the mid-range mixture will be
incorrect and as you advance the throttle from idle to full power and you are
likely to get confused. You should follow the above procedure by first setting
the high-speed mixture with a rich low-speed mixture.

Most “engine problems” for new users are not really problems with the engine
itself but with the operator and a misunderstanding about how to properly set
up the low-speed needle.

The amount of smoke coming from the muffler tells you nothing about
whether you have the correct [Link]. Usually there will be a puff of
smoke when the throttle is advanced rapidly.

Low-Speed Mixture Too Rich Symptom: Engine idles OK for a while, say 30-
40 seconds, then just quits. Also, you will note that when you advance the
throttle quickly from idle the engine hesitates, may blow out lots of smoke,
and does not accelerate quickly from idle. Solution - lean the low-speed
needle 1/8 turn and try again.

Low-Speed Mixture Too Lean Symptom: Engine idles fine for extended period,
then quits when throttle is rapidly advanced. Solution - richen low-speed
needle1/8 turn and try again.

4. REPEAT

When you have the low speed mixture setting set to your liking, go back to
repeat step 2. again.

5. NOW DON’T MESS WITH IT ANY MORE

After the two carb mixture adjustments are set up it is rarely necessary to ever
touch the low-speed needle. The high speed needle may occasionally need
minor adjusting (+/- 2 or 3 clicks) if the weather (temperature and/or
humidity) changes greatly. If the engine is new you may like to should
recheck these mixture settings after 10 - 20 flights. Each time you go to fly,

[Link] [Link]
Throttle Setup

there should be no reason to touch the adjustments.

Keep the main high-speed needle mixture setting slightly richer than the peak
rpm setting. If the engine suddenly quits, particularly when the throttle is
suddenly advanced from idle, the problem is a too-lean low-speed setting;
richen it by 1/8 turn if this is an occasional problem. If the engine quits in
flight when you are flying around at half to full throttle it is likely that your
main high-speed needle mixture is too lean. (this assumes there is nothing else
wrong with your setup like air bubbles in fuel line, dirt in carb, etc)

------------------

Other Comments

1. If you have a new engine don’t get too picky about the carb settings; just
try to get it set for reliable operation, and fly the model. You may find it
difficult at first to get a reliable idle lower than about 2700-2900 rpm. After
several flights try adjusting the low-speed mixture; after running for an hour
or so it seems easier to get a really low idle speed. Normally after 40-50
minutes running a new engine rich at low speed (4000-5000 rpm) as per the
Saito instructions you should be able to set the mixtures to get a proper high
speed setting and sufficiently low idle speed and then go fly. There is no need
for lengthy bench running a new engine. If initially you can’t seem to get a
low enough idle rpm to land your model just kill the engine with low throttle
trim on final approach. After about a gallon of fuel (less for the smaller
engines) has been burned the engine should be run in sufficiently well that
you can then again fine- tune the carb settings; the carb mixture settings can
then usually be readjusted to get a reliable low-speed rpm that can be as low
as 1800-2000 and no battery glow heat should be required. The larger engines
(90, 120, 150, 180 sizes seem to be capable of a reliable low idle around 2000
rpm, whereas the smaller engines don’t seem to be able to idle reliably at such
low rpm’s and after fully run in you may have to be content with about 2200
rpm.

2. There is a method some use to check the fuel mixture setting that involves
pinching the fuel line. The idea is that if the fuel line is momentarily pinched
at a location just before the carb the engine will speed up slightly if the
mixture is too rich, and maybe quit if too lean. This is mostly done to check
fuel mixture at idle speeds. While some people use this method with apparent
success, I believe it is in appropriate and not easy for newcomers to master.
The best idle mixture is a slightly rich setting that is best set as described
above.

3. Adjust the two needles that control the high and low speed mixtures in
small increments, and recheck throttle response after each change. This is
particularly important when leaning the low-speed mixture. For optimum
operation the number of turns on the mixture needles will depend on fuel type,
temperature, tank placement and size, muffler pressure, etc, so don’t be
concerned if your engine runs optimally at somewhat different setting from
other people’s engines. How the engine runs is important, not the number of
turns on the needles.

4. You may also like to look at the ‘Special Tricks’ page on this web site and
read the servo slow option. A slow throttle servo will permit a leaner low-
speed needle mixture setting (which is better for getting a reliable low idle)
because engines tend to die if the throttle is advanced too rapidly with too-
lean low-speed mixture.

5. If you are an Englishman the language used here needs translation. In North
America when the transmitter throttle stick is way back so that the engine is
turning at its lowest rpm the engine is said to be operating at its “idle” rpm
setting. English magazines seems to suggest this is termed the “tick-over”
condition.

6. It was mentioned above that you want the leanest possible low-speed

[Link] [Link]
Throttle Setup

mixture setting such that the engine does not quit when the throttle is rapidly
advanced. When set correctly like this the low-speed mixture will still be
plenty rich enough that there is no damage to the engine.

7. New engines out of the box all have the low-speed needle set quite rich.
This is fine for running the first 2-4 tanks at low rpm. Usually no needle
adjustments are needed to start a new engine (leave the low-speed needle
where it was when new, and turn out the high-speed needle about 4 turns).
However after the first few tanks at low rpm, you will need to set up the high
and low speed mixtures according to the description above. This means the
low-speed needle will need to be leaned out from the initial factory setting.

The Taming of the Screw -- Read this...... it may help you avoid a lost or crashed model
On older engines there is a screw with a spring as you can see on the following picture of the carb on a Saito-56
engine.

The function of this screw is two-fold. First it holds the throttle barrel in place, second it sets a mechanical stop
for the movement of the throttle barrel . The screw is adjustable so that the position of the mechanical stop can be
adjusted;
why this might be a desirable feature is a real mystery because it is usual for the servo to control the throttle travel.
More recent engines no longer use a long screw with a spring as shown for example in the two pictures below of
the
carbs on Saito-82a and Saito-220 engines.

For these engines the short screw acts to hold the throttle barrel in place and there is no provision for adjustment of
the mechanical limits the mechanical movement of the throttle. The mechanical extent of the throttle movement is
fixed;
this should not normally be a problem however there is a potential serious problem if you are not careful in setting
up
your throttle servo. The mechanical movement is limited in such a way that when the throttle is fully open, a very
small
extra movement will cause the throttle barrel to hit the preset mechanical stop; therefore it is extremely important

[Link] [Link]
Throttle Setup

that the throttle servo not try to push against this mechanical stop when you command full throttle from your
transmitter stick.
There are two possible problems that may occur if you do not carefully set the the throttle servo throw where the
servo
is inadvertantly pushing against the mechanical stop, (1) at full throttle the servo will draw lots of extra current and
rapidly drain the receiver battery or (2) the servo gears will strip (as I have found with a certain Hitec brand servo).
It is similarly important to properly set up the throttle servo throw for the idle setting; ideally when the trim is
centered the engine will run at its lowest reliable idle setting, then pulling back the trim lever will cut the engine.
The servo should not push the throttle barrel into its low-speed mechanical stop.

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Choke

All Saito engines were formerly fitted with a choke. All new engines are now without chokes,
presumably to save production costs. A choke is a little easier for starting, but not necessary
and an inconvenience to connect up. If you have an older engine with a choke there is no
need to use it; set it in the open position and leave it there.

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Engine Mount

Engine Mount: Any type of mount is fine. The Saito-180 seems to have significantly more vibration
than the 120 and 150 and a soft mount for the Saito-180 might be a good idea depending on your
particular airframe and tolerance for vibration. If you choose a soft mount the “Soft n Safe” mount
sold by Gator RC Products is a good one as it is not too soft but provides some reduction in
vibration.

Upright, Inverted, or Side Mount ?? Any engine orientation is OK. A frequent question is -- can I
run the engine inverted ? A scale or pattern type model looks better with the engine inverted.
Inverted engines run fine but can be a real inconvenience when starting. Attaching a glow-plug
ingniter, and keeping it on, can be a real pain. Also fuel may accumulate inside the piston when
inverted, causing hard starting, or possibly engine damage when forced over with an electric starter.
This latter problem with inverted engines is minimized if you turn the engine over by hand 5 or 6
rotations before attaching the glow plug battery; any excess fuel inside the piston will run out the
exhaust (if the exhaust points downward). If you are new to 4-stroke engines it is preferable to
mount the engine vertical or sideways. It is important to note that the centerline of the fuel tank
should be level with the carb or a little lower; if you invert the engine the tank may be a long way
above the carb and you may have fuel running down into the carb making it difficult to get the fuel
mixtures correct. Therefore, before deciding on an engine mounting orientation remember to
consider the tank location. If the idle mixture is set correctly there should normally be no need for an
on board glow system.
The dreaded “hydro-locking”. Often mention is the term “hydro-locking” with inverted engines. It
is easy with an inverted engine to get the piston full of fuel and it will be difficult (or maybe
impossible) to turn over the engine by hand and application of a strong electric starter may damage
the engine. The instructions with engines purchased from the Horizon Hobbies (distributor in North
America) suggest that in such a situation you should remove the glow-plug and drain the excess
fuel. While this will work, I suggest that procedure is inconvenient, unnecessary, and undesirable. It
does nothing except wear out the glow-plug thread, maybe strip the thread in moments of
frustration, and certainly waste a lot of time. There is a simple fix; (with glow-plug igniter removed)
just pick up the model and tilt it sideways so that the exhaust port points down, turn over the
prop by hand and you will see the excess fuel that was in the cylinder run out the exhaust.
For an inverted engine you should first make sure you can easily turn over the engine by hand
before applying an electric starter.

Inverted Saito-150 in 2m pattern model. Note

fuel tank over wing. Model uses a Perry
pressure pump.

Saito-91 mounted downward at 45 degrees

METAL MOUNTS from horizontal. This is a convenient way to
mount the engine as the muffler exits at the
The metal mounts sold by JTEC are already
bottom and is mostly hidden from view. This

[Link] [Link]
Engine Mount

drilled and tapped and are therefore quite

particular setup uses a Perry oscillating pump
convenient. However these mounts are
and tank just behind the firewall. The
somewhat heavier than plastic mounts. Saito
oscillating pump is mounted on the engine
also sell similar metal mounts. They are also
firewall.
nice, easy to use, and come with mounting
hardware. However they are also much Here are some examples of Dave Brown
heavier than plastic mounts. The Saito mount plastic mounts.
for the Saito-220 weighs 10.7 oz (part for Saito-30 -- Dave Brown mount 202L
number SAI220A95) Since the Saito-220 is for Saito-50,56 -- Dave Brown mount 4045L
such a large engine you might be better off for Saito-72,82a -- Dave Brown 60FS-6004
with a metal mount, despite the extra weight for Saito-91 -- Dave Brown mount
compared to plastic. 60FS or Dave Brown
mount 90FS (Use the 60FS for tight cowls. The 90FS
has longer beams and a bit larger back-mount size.)
for Saito-120,150,180 -- Dave Brown 120F

Kyosho Sensation: Weight 5 pounds 14

oz Saito-91 mounted inverted, APC 14x7
prop, Dave Brown 60FS engine mount, Perry
P-30 pump, standard tank that came with
model mounted over wing, 5 cell 800 mAH
battery under the rudder/elevator servos.
Picture at right shows pump mounted just
behind engine.

The rear-mounted throttle arm on

most 4-stroke engines can make
the servo linkage quite difficult.
The DuBro “4-Stroke Throttle
Linkage” can make the servo
connection more convenient. A
typical setup is shown to the left.

Compatible Engine Mount Sizes

Saito-30
Saito-40a
Saito-45S,50,56,56F,62,72,82a (all these have same mounting
dimensions)

[Link] [Link]
Engine Mount

Saito-65,80,91S,115
Saito-100,125a
Saito-120S,150,180
Saito-220, FG-36

The Saito Metal Mounts

If you are not concerned about the extra weight of a metal mount compared to a plastic mount
you should consider the Saito metal mounts. For the larger engines like the Saito-150,180,220
the plastic mounts are probably not advisable. The part numbers for the Saito metal mounts are
as follows.
Saito-220 and FG-36: SAI220A95
Saito-120,150,180 SAI120S95
Saito-100 and 125a SAI10095
Saito-65,80,91,115 SAI6595
Saito-45,50,56,72,82 SAI5095
Saito-40a SAI40A95
Saito-30 SAI30S95
The dimensions of the Saito metal engine mounts are shown below

[Link] [Link]
Engine Mount

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Mufflers

The small
engines have a
muffler like this
shown to the
right.

Recent larger Saito engines

have a muffler type as shown
below

It is usually better to mount the muffer in such a way that it points downward. Any excess fuel
will then run out, not back into the cylinder.

The mufflers on Saito engines use 10mm (50,56 engines), 12mm (65, 80, 91, 100 engines), 13mm
Old type muffler shown below.. (125a), 14mm (120, 150, 180 engines), and 15mm (220) thread sizes.

An alternative to the standard muffler is a flexible exhaust tube. These are a little louder than the
muffler, but not too noisy. Some versions have pressure taps.

90-degree adapters (see above and below) can be

useful for engines with the exhaust that exits out
the side when using a flex-pipe exhaust. For the
Saito-65 ,72,80,82a,91,100 (12mm thread) the part
number is SAI65140 Saito-125 (13mm thread) the
part number is SAI125A140 For the Saito-220
(15mm thread) the part number is SAI220A140.

Flexible exhaust pipes are available in different thread sizes.

10mm size (above) for 50,56 singles and 100 twin (thread size is
M10x1.0)

12 mm size for 65, 72, 80, 91, 100 engines. A flex pipe exhaust without
pressure tap is part number SAI65111A shown below.

[Link] [Link]
Mufflers

A 12mm flexible exhaust pipe with a pressure tap is Saito part number
182TD-1112 (Horizon Hobbies part SAI182TD1112)

The Saito-125 exhaust size is 13mm. The flex exhaust is SAI125A111

14mm size (see left and below) for 120, 150, 180 singles and 270,300
twins.

The Saito-220 has a 15mm thread. SAI220A143 is the flex pipe part.

The flexible exhaust to the left (about 6

inches long) differs from the others shown
above in that it has a threaded end on the
outlet so that a conventional muffler may
be screwed on.

Telemaster Trainer with Saito-65 This

engine was purchased about 1989 and has the
very old one-piece muffler that was sold with Saito-65 has Perry P-20 pump, fuel filter, OS
the Saito-50 and Saito-65 at that time Type-F plug, and APC 13x6 prop. Carb not
adjusted for 10 years. Still runs great with
2000 idle rpm. Note old-style one-piece
muffler.

The Saito-45S did A possible point of confusion:

not come with a real The optimistic English often refer
muffler. Just a short to ‘mufflers’ as ‘silencers’.
pipe with a pressure
tap. (This engine is

[Link] [Link]
Mufflers

no longer sold in US;

it is the same size
and weight as the
Saito-50 and Saito-
56)

You may be interested in mufflers from companies other than Saito

Slim-Line Products.
[Link]

Davis Diesel Development

[Link]

MACS Products
[Link]

Performance Specialties
[Link]
[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Pumps

All Saito engines (at least those sold in the US) except one version of the 300 twin, use muffler
pressure with no pump. A pump will provide uniform fuel flow from full to empty and in some
cases permit placement of the tank near the center of gravity of the model. However there is no
need to use a pump if you have a tank just behind the engine near the same level as the carb, and
the tank is not greatly oversize; the engines work very well like this with muffler pressure alone.

If you are a new flyer, or just fly slow scale models, you would have no need to consider pumps;
the standard Saito setup as explained in the engine instructions booklet with muffler pressure is fine
and trouble-free; use a fuel tank that is an appropriate size, with a location close to the engine, use
muffler pressure, forget pumps, and don’t bother with the information on this web page --- you
will likely be very happy. On the other hand if you have an unusual fuel tank setup, or want very
reliable fuel flow for extreme aerobatics this page might be right for you. A properly setup pump
can provide extremely reliable and consistent fuel delivery. A pump can make an already well-
setup engine even better, but it won’t cure basic engine problems such as carbs that leak air,
blocked filters, kinked fuel lines, etc.

1. Fuel Regulators
(a) The Cline Pressure regulator: This is not actually a pump but a pressure regulator and a good
option instead of a pump or straight muffler pressure. I have used it successfully. This works fine
although it can be confusing for some people to set up. A one-way valve is used in the exhaust
pressure line to increase the tank pressure to a value of a few pounds per square inch; the tank
pressure needs to be at least 2 pounds. A pressure regulator is inserted in the fuel line just before
the carb. The function of the pressure regulator is to allow the engine to draw fuel as needed. The
advantage is that the tank position is not critical. The disadvantage, although not major, is that the
tank is pressurised at fairly high pressure and if something goes wrong with the pressure system,
(eg pressure line comes off muffler) then the engine will probably quit. The plumbing is somewhat
more prone to failure in my opinion compared to other options. I instead prefer the Perry pumps as
they do not require a muffler pressure line, however the Cline system is an excellent method if you
want the tank back at the center of gravity far from the engine. If you want more information on
this option check out this URL: [Link]
(b) The Iron Bay Regulator: This works the same as the Cline system but is made by a different
company. A difference is that the line from tank connects on to a fairly large diameter nipple on the
regulator; this is probably an advantage if you want to use large diameter tubing (eg 5/32 ID) from
tank, but a minor disadvantage of you want to use thinner tubing (eg 1/8 ID), however the Sullivan
tubing adapter can easily solve that problem (see picture below). The Iron Bay web site is
[Link]/index_files/[Link] (Note: as of early 2009 this URL does
not work; it is not known if the Iron-Bay company is still in business)

The advantage of the above systems is that fuel will not run through them when the engine is not

[Link] [Link]
Pumps

running. If you have a tank that is considerably higher than the engine, with the standard muffler
pressure setup, or the Perry pumps mentioned below, fuel will run downwards into the engine when
the model is parked and flooding is possible. This does not happen with the Cline type regulators

2. The Perry VP-20 Oscillating Pump: I have used this pump with the 50, 56, and 91 engines and
seen it work fine with a 150. It can be mounted on the firewall just behind the engine provided you
don’t use a very soft mount, and it is not necessary to use the mounting plate provided with the
pump If a very soft engine mount is used the pump should not be mounted on the firewall; in this
case the pump should be mounted on the engine, or part of the engine mount that vibrates with the
engine, because the pump uses engine vibrations as its power source. The best place to locate the
pump in my experience is horizontally, parallel to the ground, on the firewall just behind the
engine, about 2-3 inches below the crankshaft level. If you choose this pump the tank is best
located just behind the engine, although I believe it should pump from a longer distance. The
advantage of this pump is the uniform mixture from full to empty tank. It is useful in certain scale
model designs that do not permit locating the tank near the same level as the carb. There is a
pressure adjustment on the pump. You should first run the engine on muffler pressure. Then after
connecting up the pump readjust the main needle valve; if it is more than about 1/2 - 3/4 turn
different from when you had muffler pressure then adjust the pump pressure appropriately so that
the main needle valve setting is within 1/2 turn of the situation when you had muffler pressure
alone. I have successfully used this pump both with and without muffler pressure, although the
instructions do not suggest using muffler pressure with this pump. If you do not use muffler
pressure with the pump the vent line to the tank must be open to the atmosphere. This pump will
not fix a problem with a poor tank location where the tank is much higher than the carb as fuel will
run down into the engine and cause difficult starting.

3. The Perry VP-30 Pressure Pump: This is a pump and regulator driven by pressure pulses from
the crank-case. A short (abour 2”) length of fuel tubing is connected from the crankcase breather to
one arm of a T-joint, The other arm is connected to about 4-6 “ of fuel tubing and is left open to
the atmosphere. The remaining open line on the T-joint is connected to the pump pressure input via
the red tubing that comes with the pump. For the newer pumps that are adjusted with a hex tool,
leave the screw where it is and try running the system without any screw adjustment. Note: When
using this pump, the tank vent must be open to the atmosphere, and no muffler pressure is used.
The crankcase remains open to the atmosphere for excess oil to drip out.
This pump will not work well if the tank level is far above the carb level because fuel will run
down into the carb through the pump; this is common for inverted engines. in most models.

The T-joint should have 1/8 inch inside diameter (or larger). The red plastic tubing from the pump
to T-joint is supplied with the pump; it helps to heat the end of this red tubing with a heat gun to
get it onto the T-joint.

[Link] [Link]
Pumps

Here are examples of some setups that have worked for me with the Perry pressure pump.

Saito-91, engine inverted, 1/8” tubing everywhere, standard tank that came with the kit (a
Kyosho Sensation). Tank located back over the CG.
Saito-120, engine upright, 1/8” ID fuel tubing everywhere, standard unmodified 18oz
Graupner tank. Model is a Sig 4star-60. Tank located back over CG.
Saito-150 (inverted and side-mounted), Saito-180 side-mounted. Standard unmodified 18 oz
Graupner tank located up front just behind firewall. 1/8” ID silicone tubing from tank to
pump and pump to engine.

When setting up these pumps, check for air bubbles going into the carb from the pump. If there are
no air bubbles going into the pump but air bubbles coming out the pump, the pump is leaking and
needs replacing. If you find that the engine is too lean at full-throttle, and you can not richen it up
sufficiently with the main needle valve, the pump may not have sufficient fuel flow; in this case the
pump also needs replacing. In the unlikely event you have a defective pump, I suggest sending it
back to Gary Conley for a replacement. I have spoken with Gary and he is dedicated to provide a
quality product. All the pumps now produced are rigorously tested before shipment.

A problem with these pumps can be finding a place to mount them. Below is a Saito-120 in a SIG
Four Star-60 model. The pump is mounted on the side of the model (not too elegant). You can see
the fuel filter (on the pump input line) mounted on the model adjacent to the engine. The pressure
inlet to the pump is the red tube that goes through the hole in fuselage to the T-joint inside behind
the engine. The model has the tank located at the center of gravity position over the wing. This
setup has worked very well for over five years without ever adjusting the pump or carb. The pumps
don’t seem to wear out and provide very reliable fuel flow. They are my favorite because the tank
remains unpressurized and no muffler pressure tap is required.

The photographs above show a Saito-120 in a SIG Four-Star-60 with a Perry VP-30 pressure
pump mounted on the side.

The above picture shows three versions of the Perry pump. The one on the left with red plastic and
silver body is the original version made by the Perry-Varsane company. Later Conley Engines
began making these pumps and changed the external appearance (see pump in the middle of the
above picture) to have black colored plastic and a blue colored body. Both the original red Perry
pump and the early Conley versions used a hex shaped adjustment screw. Recent versions (see
pump on right side in above picture) use a different adjustment screw. The newer pumps have a
screw that is easier to adjust by inserting a hex tool into the screw. I strongly suggest using the new
version with the hex adjustment screw as shown on the right side of the above picture.

[Link] [Link]
Pumps

4. The Saito Pump System:

Currently the only Saito engine sold in the US with a fuel pump is a version of the 300 twin. Saito
have also made a 120 and 150 with a pump. These were formerly sold in the US but the importer
(Horizon Hobby) ceased importing them. I am unsure if they are still manufactured. This text is
therefore probably only relevant if you have an older engine with this pump system, however since
the pump system is available as a separate item it may be feasible to convert a new 120-150-180
engine to use this pump but I have not tried it myself. The pump system formerly supplied with
the special versions of the 120 and 150 engines is the same pump system supplied with the current
Saito-300 twin. The Saito-220 is also planned to use the same pump system, however the standard
version of the Saito-220 sold in the US now does not come with the pump.
The system works via tank pressure. The rear crankcase cover has two vent nipples each containing
one-way valves. One valve allows fresh air into the crankcase, the other valve is reversed in
direction and pumps air out of the crankcase to the tank via a needle valve assembly. The needle
valve may be adjusted to bleed off pressure such that the tank pressure may be varied by turning
the needle valve. It works extremely well and the tank pressure remains remarkably constant. The
difficulty with this system was the abysmal lack of instructions and I suspect most people set it up
with too much tank pressure. For my 120 and 150 engines the needle needs to be turned a long
way out so that the tank pressure is no more than about 1-2 pounds (psi). I have found that a
pressure of about 0.5 to 1.0 psi is ideal for the Saito-120 and 150. The Saito factory instructions
with these older engines suggest the pressure adjusting needle valve should be opened 2 3/4 turns; I
have been unable to get these engines to run with this pressure setting and had to reduce the tank
pressure by turning the adjustment out about 5 1/2 turns to get about 0.5 - 1.0 psi tank pressure.
The actual value of the pressure is not important if the engine runs OK. It is most convenient to
measure the tank pressure by temporarily connecting a pressure gauge via a T-joint into the fuel
line just before the carb. If you do not have a pressure gauge I suggest turning the needle out about
5 1/2 turns and try it. If it seems way too rich at mid-range try lowering the pressure by turning out
the needle about 1/4 turn. If the pressure is too high the mid-range will be excessively rich and the
engine unreliable. You should experiment with different tank pressure settings to find a value
where the carb adjustments permit reliable engine performance. The usual problem with this pump
is users setting the pressure too high. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has successfully
got one of these engines to run with the recommended 2 3/4 turns on the pressure adjusting valve.
You can buy the pump package from Horizon Hobby, that contains the pump needle valve
assemble plus the two one-way valves; it is Saito part number ‘300TTDP-102’ and is also provided
with the pumped version of the 300 twin in current new engines.

Note: Although this system pressurizes the tank from the crankcase, very little excess oil from the
crankcase seems to go into the tank. The engine crankcase is still effectively open to the
atmosphere through a one-way valve that lets fresh air into the crankcase, another one-way valve

[Link] [Link]
Pumps

from the crank-case connects to the pump needle valve assembly and most excess oil drips outside
through the pump assembly drip tube shown in the above diagram.

For the Saito-150 DP with the Saito pump system, here are my settings that work. Pump needle
valve turned out 5 1/2 turns; this results in a tank pressure of a little more than 1/2 psi (Note: 5
turns out was not satisfactory, the extra 1/2 turn was significant). Main engine carb needle valve
turned out 2 1/2 turns. OS F -type plugs, Byron fuel 15% nitro, 16% oil content (synthetic-castor
blend). The 2 1/2 turns out on the main needle valve is a bit rich; and may need changing to suit
the particular fuel, weather, etc. The engine has a reliable low idle of about 1800rpm with an APC
16x8 or 17x8N prop..

Some Other Comments on the Saito Pump:

A major disadavantage of the Saito ‘pump’ system is that it is not easily possible to inject after-run
oil into the crank-case after each flying session. In my opinion this is a serious drawback.

It seems that the old Saito-150 with Saito-pump would only work well when the pressure was
adjusted to a relatively low value that is comparable to pressure values from mufflers.

The Saito-220 that is sold in Japan and Europe comes with the Saito ‘pump, and the engine is sold
under the name “Saito-220 Zeus”. In the US the Saito-220 that is sold does not have the ‘Zeus’
label and does not come with the Saito ‘pump’ and is sold with the same carb as the Saito-180. If
you have the US version it is possible to buy the pump, backplate, and larger carb as separate items
to modify your engine to be the same as the version sold in Japan; however some users have
reported difficulties setting up this engine with the Saito pump... this does not imply there is a
problem with the pump, but the additional adjustments can be challenging for users..
[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Starting

Starting a New Engine for the First Time

The starting method outlined below uses an electric starter. There are other
hand starting methods that work, but I prefer to use an electric starter. For the
150 and 180 engines it is best to use a strong starter like the Sullivan
Dynatron model; this starter works well with a 12 volt battery but can also
handle up to 24 volts.

On your engine carb first set the main high-speed needle valve 4 turns out.
Check the low-speed needle position; it should be about level, or 0.5 mm
below the level, of its housing. New engines will have this set in an
appropriate position and it is best to leave it as it comes from the factory for
the first start. If you need to reset it, turn it so that it the screw is flush with its
housing and then turn it in about one half turn. The low speed position of the
throttle should be set by first setting the transmitter throttle trim at neutral
then mechanically adjusting the linkage so that the low-speed throttle opening
is about 1mm and you can check this by peering down the carb throat
(perhaps with the aid of a flash-light). The high speed throttle position
should be set so that full throttle stick completely opens the carb.

Don’t try to start the engine with the throttle wide open (dangerous) or
completely closed (it won’t start). You must look down the carb intake and
set the throttle starting position such that the carb is open just a little as was
mentioned above; about 1mm is OK, or up to about 1/4 throttle. It is
convenient to arrange the mechanical linkage to the throttle such that the
throttle stick is full back and throttle trim is centered for this starting position.

Next get the fuel up to the carb by fully opening the throttle and turning over
the engine by hand with your finger over the exhaust outlet. As soon as the
fuel gets to the carb continue turning over the engine about three turns to get
some fuel into the engine. Another way to do this is to set full throttle
position and to spin over the engine with an electric starter; it is not normally
necessary to put your finger over the exhaustwith this latter method.

It is important to get some fuel into the engine but not too much. Next turn
engine over by hand 3 or 4 times, you might see some fuel drip out the
exhaust (assuming the exhaust points downward, as it should).

Next set the low throttle position like was mentioned above. Connect up the
glow plug battery and then use an electric starter. It should start. If it
backfires it may loosen the prop nut or even throw off the prop and this is a
sign that you had too little fuel in the engine and you need to re-prime it. If it
does not back-fire and yet still does not start it probably means you have no
fuel in the engine or the fuel line is empty (assuming the glowplug and
battery are OK).

After the engine starts leave the glowplug battery connected and let it run at
low speed (about 4000 rpm maximum) for the entire tank of fuel. You could
try removing the glow-plug battery and it may run without it even at a rich
mixture setting. You may have to leave the glo-plug battery on to keep it

[Link] [Link]
Starting

running. Don’t try fiddling with the needles yet and run the engine for at least
10 minutes (preferably about 15-20 minutes) total at this low speed and
somewhat rich mixture.

Next start the engine again and slowly advance the throttle to maximum.
There should be lots of smoke as the mixture will be quite rich. When it gets
to maximum throttle remove the glo-plug battery. Use a tachometer to
measure the rpm and slowly lean the mixture (turn main high-speed needle
in) until you get peak rpm, then richen the mixture (turn needle out) until the
rpm drops about 200 rpm below its maximum value. If the engine is unduly
rich you may have to leave the glow plug battery connected at first to stop the
engine quitting. You really should have a tachometer because it is quite
difficult to discern maximum rpm by ear.

The following text that describes low-speed needle adjustment applies to all
Saito single cylinder engines except the Saito-30 that has an air-bleed type
carb. For an air-bleed type carb the procedure is the same except turning the
screw in will richen the mixture.

Next lower the throttle on your transmitter stick all the way back and adjust
the throttle trim so that the rpm is about 2200--2400 rpm or whatever you
think is a reliable lowest speed; do not try for a very low idle rpm until you
have more time on the engine.. You should next adjust the low-speed needle,
and you want the leanest possible low-speed needle setting without the engine
quitting when you rapidly advance the throttle from its lowest position to
half-throttle or full throttle. You will notice that with the main throttle stick
all the way back, if you lean the low-speed needle the rpm will increase,
therefore after you make an adjustment of the low-speed needle you should
re-adjust the throttle trim for about 2200--2300 rpm. or whatever you think is
the lowest reliable idle speed.

Assuming the low-speed needle was initially first in a rich seeting, turn it in
about 1/8 turn, reset transmitter trim for 2200-2300 rpm, and then rapidly
advance the throttle from lowest position to about 1/2 throttle. If the engine
does not quit, repeat the procedure, until the engine quits , then turn it out 1/8
turn at a time, readjusting throttle trim, until you have the leanest mixture
without the engine quitting when you rapidly advance the throttle.

Now go back to re-check the main needle setting by fully advancing the
throttle and adjusting for about 200 rpm lower than maximum as you did at
the beginning. The engine should now be reliable enough to fly without the
engine quitting. After about an hour of subsequent flying time you should
readjust the mixure settings again at which time you could try for a lower idle
rpm if you want. I am able to get reliable low speed rpms of about 1800 after
the engine is well broken in.

Remember: The objective is to get the leanest possible setting on the low-
speed needle such that the engine does not quit when the throttle is quickly
advanced from idle to 1/2 throttle, and also from idle to full throttle. The high
speed needle should always be a little rich. Please see the “Throttle Setup”
page on this web site for more information on setting up the carb.

After the engine is fully broken in (about 2 hours total) and the mixtures are
set it should not be necessary to fiddle with the mixtute settings. I have

[Link] [Link]
Starting

engines that have been flying for 3-4 years where I have not adjusted the
mixtures.

It is often quite difficult for beginners to know when they have the correct
mixture with 4-stroke engines because the rpm changes little as the the needle
is turned. Don’t judge the mixture by smoke from the exhaust. Set the idle
mixture so that the idle is reliable, then set the high-speed needle a little rich.
If the engine runs OK that’s fine, don’t worry about the amount of exhaust
smoke. Never adjust the low-speed mixture needle to set the idle rpm - the
low speed needle sets the fuel-air mixture for reliable operation and the
transmitter trim should be used to set the lowest speed idle rpm (initially for a
new engine set this to about 2200-2300rpm.

Idle Mixture Too Rich Symptom: Engine idles OK for a while, say 30-40
seconds, then just quits. Also, engine hesitates and does not accelerate
quickly from idle when you advance throttle. Solution - lean low-speed
needle 1/8 turn and try again.

Idle Mixture Too Lean Symptom: Engine will idle fine for extended period,
but quits when throttle is rapidly advanced frrom idle. Solution - richen low-
speed needle 1/8 turn and try again

Starting an Engine That is Broken in With Correct Mixture Settings

Fill tank then prime engine by opening throttle and spinning engine with
electric starter. Set low throttle. Connect up glow plug battery, Use electric
starter to start the engine, Remove glow-plug battery. Wait about a minute for
the engine to warm up before trying full throttle.

Another method that some find easy is to not prime the engine, but to fully
close the throttle (either with low throttle trim or the transmitter engine ‘kill
switch’). Next with glow-plug connected spin the engine over with an electric
starter, then with engine spinning a helper holding the transmitter advances
the throtttle trim (or releases the kill switch). The engine then should start as
it draws fuel. This method may be particularly helpful if you are trying to
start a larger engine (150 or 180) with a small electric starter that has
insufficient power to turn over a large engine full of fuel.

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Maintenance

After Run Oil: After running, empty the fuel tank and then restart the engine
to burn the remaining fuel from the fuel lines and engine. Squirt some oil into
the crank-case via the breather nipple on the crankcase. You should have a
few inches of fuel tubing permanently attached to the crankcase breather
nipple that is normally open to the atmosphere. It is easy to squirt oil into the
crankcase through this tubing. Use Marvel Mystery Oil (the air tool version is
better), or any other brand of air-tool oil such as Snap-On Air Tool Oil. Other
popular after-run oils are a 50:50 mixture of transmission fluid and air-tool
oil, just transmission fluid, Mobil-1 synthetic oil, or any light oil such as
5W30. WD-40 is not recommended.

Some people never use after-run oil and claim they never have a problem -
take your choice - oil will do no harm so why not use it. Four-stroke engines
are susceptible to internal rust on steel parts such as bearings, and after-run oil
is helpful for preventing rust and possible consequent bearing failure.

Adjust Valve Clearances: The valve clearances should be adjusted

occasionally (I do it once per year for frequently used engines). Saito provide a
small thickness measuring device with each engine. The Saito thickness guage
is 0.10 mm thick and can be used to determine if the valve clearances exceed
the maximum recommended value; however I am unable to see how it is to be
used to make a correct setting. It is best to use feeler guages, or thickness
gauges, obtainable from an auto parts store to set the clearances in the
recommended range. The recommended range is 0.002 to 0.004 inches (or 0.03
to 0.10 mm) and I set the value about 0.002 - 0.003 inches.

To adjust the valves : first remove the valve covers and then rotate the engine
shaft until the valves are closed on the compression stroke. When the valves
are closed you will be able to jiggle the tappet rocker arm up-down a little
when you grasp it with your fingers. Next loosen the lock nut and turn the
adjustment screw to get the proper gap. The 0.002 inch gauge should easily
slide through the gap with no friction whatsoever. Thicker gauges such as
0.005 should not slide though the gap, or perhaps will go through the gap with
some forcing. Tighten the lock nut and re-check the gap. Oil the rocker arm
pivot and drip some oil down the push rod tubes, then re-install the valve
covers.

Note: Some purists, or mechanical nerds, will tell you that the above method to
set the valve clearances using thickness or ‘feeler’ gauges is not the most
accurate method. They argue (correctly) that use of a dial gauge is the better

[Link] [Link]
Maintenance

more precise method because after some engine wear the surfaces either side
of the gap to be measured are not precisely flat. Therefore use of ‘feeler’
gauges results in a slightly larger gap than suggested by the thickness of the
gauge. While this is strictly correct, I suggest the minimal difference is not
significant, and use of a dial gauge is not something the average flyer is
willing to fiddle with.

Repairs and Spare Parts

See the FAQ page of this web site.
[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Special Tricks

1. Installing a velocity stack on a Saito-82a engine: A number of Saito engines are now sold
without an intake velocity stack, presumably to save production costs. The addition of a velocity
stack on the carb inlet helps stop some fuel spray coming out the carb when the engine is
running. If you want to add a velocity stack to the Saito-82a you will need to buy the velocity
stack (part number SAI50GK93) plus an O-ring. I got an O-ring from a local hardware store
with dimensions 5/16” inner diameter, 7/16” outside diameter. The picture at left below shows
the parts; the picture below on the right shows the engine after installation. This is probably not
recommended by Saito, nor for ‘klutzes’ who can not use a screw-driver without stripping the
threads in the plastic back-plate. This particular intake velocity stack part should also fit the the
Saito 50, 56, 65, 80, 91, 72 engines but I have not tried using it on those other engines.

2. Access to Needle Valve With Cowled Engines: With a cowled engine the main high-
speed needle valve is often inaccessible. Even with the extension provided this is usually
not long enough to extend outside most cowls. A good solution is to omit the wire
extension piece, and grind a screwdriver slot on top of the needle valve. A screwdriver can
then be inserted through a small hole in the cowl to adjust the main needle valve. It also
helps to epoxy a short (about 1/2”) length of brass tubing over the end of the needle valve
to help guide the screw-driver to the needle valve.

There is an even easier way shown above. After you have used your Dremel tool with a cut-
off wheel to grind a screwdriver slot in the top of the needle valve, then put some heat-
shrink tubing over the end (I used white-color heat-shrink tubing in the above picture for no
good reason). The heat-shrink tubing holds the screw-driver in place while you adjust the
needle-valve.

3. Slowing the Throttle Servo: Some computer radios (at least my JR 10x does) permits
the adjustment of servo speed. The speed of a servo may be slowed down by a preset

[Link] [Link]
Special Tricks

amount and is set up with transmitter programming. Check your transmitter manual to see
if you have this feature. This is particularly useful with the throttle servo.

As the throttle is quickly advanced from low to full throttle lots of air suddenly enters the
engine which will cause the engine to quit unless the low-speed mixture is set sufficiently
rich. The faster the throttle stick is advanced the greater is the tendency for the engine to
quit. Therefore, if the throttle motion is slowed down the low-speed mixture can be leaned
further while still preventing the the engine from quitting when the transmitter throttle
stick is rapidly advanced. See the ‘Throttle Setup’ section on this web site; it is best to
have the leanest possible low-speed needle setting.

The amount the servo is slowed is a personal decision. Just slow it an amount you consider
is the slowest you think is reasonable.

The overall result is a very reliable low-speed engine setting. No matter how fast you move
the transmitter stick back and forth the engine will not quit.

4. Setting up the Throttle Linkage: This actually applies to any engine make. Use a good
quality servo with no backlash or slop. Use a solid linkage between the servo and engine
throttle arm - no floppy wires or plastic linkages - and make sure the friction is minimal.
This is particularly important for getting a reliable fixed low idle position.

The following only applies if you have a computer radio that may be used for servo end-
point adjustments to help set up the throttle throws.

First make the mechanical linkages such that the servo moves the throttle arm from
approximate idle position to approximate full throttle position.

Next set the transmitter throttle trim lever to its center position (assuming you have a
tranmitter with a mechanical trim lever and not electronic trim). Now move the transmitter
stick to full throttle position. Next look into the engine carb and you should see the carb
barrel approximately fully open. Now, using the transmitter programming, adjust the servo
end point adjustment back and forth while looking down the carb - you want the servo end
point adjustment set so that the carb just opens fully with the transmitter stick at the full
throttle position - if it is not fully open you won’t get full power, and if the servo is
pushing too hard you will get high servo current drain when at full throttle.

Next move the transmitter stick to full idle position. The transmitter trim lever is still at its
center position. Now adjust the low-throttle servo end point using the transmitter
programming function so that the carb opening is about 1/2 mm (this is a good starting
point).

Start the engine, keeping the throttle trim lever centered and the transmitter stick a couple
of clicks above its full idle position. Assuming you have already adjusted the carb needles
for optimum running, the low speed idle setting is set using the transmitter end-point
adjustment, and not the throttle trim lever that stays centered. With this procedure you
always know that a centered trim lever corresponds to the correct idle rpm. For future
changes to idle rpm that may be required always adjust the servo end-point adjustment
using the computer programing function and not the trim lever position.

Remember, when starting the engine for the first flight of the day the engine will probably
not maintain the same lowest idle rpm as the last time you flew. The first flight of the day
is usually needed to loosen up the engine. So don’t be tempted to adjust the idle rpm with
the computer end-point adjustment until you have flown a flight or two. On the first flight
of the day move the mechanical trim forward a couple of clicks and then back to center for

[Link] [Link]
Special Tricks

landing and subsequent flights.

Having a reliable and lowest-possible idle rpm helps with landing a model. You always
know that setting the trim lever to center will provide that lowest idle rpm. If you are
paranoid about avoiding engine stoppages during a flight you can always take off with the
trim lever a couple of clicks above its center position, then return it to center just before
landing (this is a good procedure for a new engine).

[If you unfortunately own one of those transmitters with an electronic trim on the throttle
you will need to adopt a somewhat different procedure from that outlined above]

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Specifications

Prop
Displ. Stroke Weight
Engine .... Bore (mm) Shaft HP
(cc) (mm) (g)
Thread
FA-30SH (also black GK versions) 5.03 20.0 16.0 260 1/4x28 0.50
FA-40a 6.6 22.0 17.4 300 1/4x28 0.65
FA-45S 7.5 22.4 19.0 440 M7x1 0.70
FA-50 8.2 23.4 19.0 435 M7x1 0.85
FA-56 9.2 24.8 19.0 410 M7x1 0.90
FA-56F 9.2 24.8 19.0 410 M7x1 0.90
FA-62a 10.24 26.2 19.0 420 M7x1 1.0
FA-65 10.6 24.8 22.0 550 M7x1 0.95
FA-72 11.8 27.0 20.6 470 M7x1 1.2
FA-80 13.1 27.0 22.8 540 M7x1 1.3
FA-82a 13.8 29.0 20.4 462 M7x1 1.5
FA-91S 15.0 28.2 24.0 520 M7x1 1.6
FA-100 17.1 29.0 26.0 550 M8x1.25 1.8
FA-115 18.94 31.7 24.0 586 M8x1.25 2.1
FA-120S 20.0 32.0 24.8 900 M8x1.25 2.2
FA-125a 20.52 31.7 26.0 620 M8x1.25 2.2
FG-20 20.52 31.7 26.0 690 M8x1.25
FA-150 25.0 34.0 27.5 890 M8x1.25 2.5
FA-180 29.1 36.0 28.6 880 M8x1.25 2.8
FA-220a 36.3 38.0 32.0 1096 M8x1.25 3.5
FG-36 36.3 38.0 32.0 1260 M8x1.25 3.0

[Link] [Link]
Specifications

[Link] [Link]
Specifications

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
Gasoline-Petrol

Saito make some engines that are fueled by gasoline(petrol) with spark ignition.
These are essentially the same engines as the glow-fuel versions but with the addition
of a spark plug, electronic ignition, and different carb.
The glow fueled engines are designated FA- and the gasoline fueled engines as FG-
For example the FG-36 and FA-220 are gasoline and glow engines of identical physical size
and capacity. The ‘36’ number refers to the capacity in cubic centimeters. The number ‘220’
refers to the capacity in cubic inches x10, viz 220 means 2.2 cubic inches capacity. For some
unknown reason Saito has chosen the different units to describe the capacities for gas and glow
versions of their engines.

FG-20 FG-36

The available gasoline/petrol engines are:

FG-36 (glow version FA-220)
FG-30 (glow version FA-180)
FG-20 (glow version FA-125a)
FG-14 (glow version FA-82a)

FUEL: Gasoline (Petrol) needs to be mixed with oil in the ratio 20:1
There are 128 fluid ounces in a US gallon, therefore 6.4 ounces of oil needs to be
added to
each gallon to get the correct oil content.
The imperial-size gallon has 160 fluid ounces and therefore 8.0 fluid ounces of oil
would need to be added to one imperial-size gallon.

The Walbro pump-type carb on the FG-36 and FG-30 engines permits the fuel tank to be
located relatively distant from the engine, and the tank height with respect to the carb is not
critical. By comparison, the glow engines work best when the tank mid-point is about level
(or a little lower) with the carb, and the tank is close behind the engine. Muffler pressure is
not necessary, and not used with these FG engines.
The smaller FG-14 and FG-20 use a Saito-designed carb. For these engines the tank is best
placed near the engine similar to the usual practice for glow-fueled engines.
There is additional weight to be carried compared to a glow-fuel engine. The ignition unit

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Gasoline-Petrol

and a 4 or 5 cell NiCad or NiMH battery of 1000mAH or larger is necessary. However this
extra weight is only a few ounces and is offset by the fact that the engines are very light for
their capacities, plus a smaller fuel tank is possible with gasoline due to the significantly
lower fuel consumption.
There is a reduction of power compared to glow-fuel, however that is an unavoidable
consequence of using gasoline instead of alcohol fuel. Nevertheless the power is quite
adequate for most applications and the operating cost for gasoline fuel is significantly less
than glow fuel.

IMPORTANT !!
1. Read the instruction manual carefully. Make sure you have the most recent 2009
version of the manual. If you do not have this manual it can be downloaded from the
Horizon Hobbies web site.

Correct adjustment of the fuel mixture needles can be challenging and is considerably
more difficult than for the glow engines. The manual is most helpful.

2. Make sure you use a good fuel filter such as the Sullivan type. It is most important
that no dirt get into the carb.

3. It is best to use the Horizon Hobbies recommended oil,

[Saito Home Page]

[Link] [Link]
FAQ

This web site gets several thousand hits per month, and visitors occasional
ask questions. This page lists some of the most frequently asked questions.

Q. Where do I send my engine for repairs, or to buy spare parts ?

A. USA
Horizon Hobbies can help you. Since they are also the US importers, you
can also purchase spare parts from them. Check their web site.
The web page with full parts lists is here.

B. EVERYWHERE ELSE Good luck !

In the UK, the Saito importer and distributor is Macgregor Industries;

you might try contacting them if you live in Europe.
[Link]

Q. I want to repair my engine myself and not send it to someone else for
repair. How do I get the valve timing correct when I re-assemble the
engine ?

A. Why would you want to mess with your engine when there are
competant repair services available? If you insist on trying your own
repairs -- buy the Saito repair book that was formerly advertised in RCM
magazine. It is a few years old and does not mention the most recent
engines but should provide enough information for most repairs. However
since RCM magazine is no longer in business I am not sure where you can
now get this book.

Q. What RPM should I get with my engine running a XXXX size prop ?

A. I don’t know. It depends on the fuel, altitude, air temperature, humidity,

prop size, prop brand, etc. After the engine is run-in a bit, measure the rpm
with your prop and fuel and keep it for a reference. If I mentioned a value,

[Link] [Link]
FAQ

and your engine measured say 100 rpm less, you would be unhappy for no
good reason.
Q. Can I reverse the carb direction so that the needle valve is on the
opposite side?

A. Yes

Q. What is the difference between a Saito FA-56 and a Saito FA-56F ?

A. The Saito-56F is a different version of the Saito-56 and appears to be

sold in only a few countries; not the US. The letter ‘F’ means “Fun Fly”.
The “F” version has a red colored prop drive hub. In the picture below,
underneath the letter “F” on the red sticker on the box, it says “Fun Fly”.
The only mechanical difference I am aware of is that the carb throat
diameter is smaller on the Saito-56F. This narrower carb inlet results in
better fuel draw, better fuel economy, and less power; why this is beneficial
for a fun-fly type model is unclear to me.

Q. My engine has two glow plugs in the head. Do I need to provide

power to both plugs for starting?

A. No. Just power one plug for starting. The other plug will work by itself
after the engine starts running.
Q My engine won’t start (or runs poorly, etc). I bought it from eBay and
the seller said it was ‘Like New’. What do I do ?

A. Don’t buy other peoples junk from eBay. If it is not new and never run,
chances are there is a problem with the engine. For example: the crank-
shaft might be slightly bent due to a crash, but may not be evident from
casual inspection: the engine may have been run lean: or it may have
rusted bearings, etc. If you are stuck with a problem engine, carefully
check valve clearances, carb blockages, and bearings. Or just send it to a
competant repair person.
Q. What does the small letter mean that is stamped on one lug of the
engine?

A. The letter denotes the production run of a particular engine size.. The
first run has the letter ‘A’, the second run letter ‘B’, the third run letter ‘C’,
etc. A different letter does not necessarily imply a change or improvement.
I do not know the dates that correspond to specific production runs; that
would be a good exercise for a person working in a large hobby shop or
distributor.

[Link] [Link]
FAQ

Q. What is the difference between the standard silver (S) metal engine
and the black GK version.?

A. The GK version is painted black. The internals are identical. Some of

the GK versions have a velocity stack, and some do not. My Saito-56GK
came without a velocity stack, and was purchased a few years ago.

Q. I want to install my engine inverted. The guys in my club say you

need to install an on-board glow driver for inverted 4-stroke engines. Is
this correct?

A. There is no need to use an on-board glow driver if the idle mixture is set
correctly, you are using an appropriate brand glow-plug, and proper fuel.
The idle speed will be reliable and just as low as for an upright engine.
Make sure the tank centerline is about level with the carb or a little lower;
inverted engine problems are often related to the tank position being too
high.

Q. Where can I get a manual for my engine?

A. Try the Horizon Hobbies web site where you can download a manual.
You may have to search around on the web site to find them. There are
manuals for small singles, large singles, and multi-cylinder engines.

Q. My engine won’t run. If I prime it, it will run for a few seconds then
quit. There is fuel in the line to the engine and the glow-plug is working.

A. Assuming there is no blockage in the carb it is most likely that the low-
speed mixture is too lean. It is standard practice to start the engine with the
throttle opened just above idle, or up to 1/4 throttle. At low throttle the
high-speed mixture needle has almost no effect; the low-speed needle
almost totally controls the fuel mixture seen by the engine. If the low-
speed needle is turned in too far (too lean) the engine will start on a prime
but not continue running. Try resetting the low-speed brass needle with its
top flush with the housing as explained elsewhere on this web site. (Note:
this applies to the two-needle carbs, not the air-bleed carb like on the
Saito-30)

Q. My engine backfires (and sometimes loosens and throws off the prop)
when I try to start it. However, once it is running the engine is fine.

A. The engine is too lean causing it to backfire. Do not adjust the carb
needles to correct this. Carb mixtures should be optimized for engine
running, not engine starting. Before trying to start the engine, prime it with
lots of fuel. One way to do this is: disconnect glow-plug, advance throttle
to full, spin over the engine with starter until fuel spray spits out exhaust,
close throttle to 1/4 or less, connect power to glow-plus and start engine
(with electric starter). If engine is inverted see extra note on other web
page on ‘hydro-locking’. If the engine is inverted it is usually a good idea
to pick up the model and tilt it sideways so that the exhaust port points
down, turn over the prop by hand and you will see the excess fuel that was

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in the cylinder run out the exhaust, and there is still enough remaining fuel
inside the engine for it to easily start.

Q. My uncle Harry is going on vacation to Japan. Can you tell me where

he can get a cheap engine for me over there?

A. In the US the discount price for engines is about the same and usually a
little less than the best discount hobby shops in Japan. I know where to
buy discount and mail order RC stuff in Japan but I prefer to buy engines
from US stores as the price is a little lower, I get an English language
instruction booklet, and I get a warranty and service if I need it. In Tokyo
there are a couple of good hobby shops near the Akihabara train station.
There are some nice small model kits sold in Japan that are not readily
available elsewhere and maybe worth checking out, but don’t plan on
getting an engine in Japan. Also, mail-order from Japan is usually not
cost-effective as most places in Japan charge like wounded buffalo for
shipping.

Q. My engine vibrates a lot, can I minimize this? The prop is balanced but
I still get too much vibration.

A. All single cylinder engines naturally vibrate a fair amount, and some
Saito engines will tend to vibrate a bit more than other Saito engines, due to
size etc. The following will help without resorting to a soft mount. Carefully
balance the prop using a good balancer like the Top-Flite Magnetic
Balancer. If the engine is mounted on a flimsy model expect lots of
vibration regardless of what you do; a solid mount and beefy rigid model
helps. A metal mount will also help but does add weight compared to a
plastic mount. After the engine is well run-in try resetting the two fuel
mixtures on the carb. An overly rich low-speed needle mixture will cause
more vibrations. Generally a new engine running fairly rich will vibrate
much more than the same engine that is well run-in with correct fuel
mixtures.

Q. I have stripped the thread in the head where the glowplug screws in.
What can I do?

A. Be more careful next time; there is no need to remove a glow-plug

unless it is not working and you need to replace it. Glowplugs last many
years in 4-stroke engines that are properly run a little rich. Do not over-
tighten or cross-thread the glow-plug. There are two solutions. First get a
new head (expensive). Second, send the head or engine to Clarence Lee
who can install a ‘heli-coil’ insert; the price is reasonable and he advertises
in the classified ads of Model Airplane News magazine.

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FAQ

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