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By H. I. Chapelle
Here's a small, shallow-drafi sailing craft which combines sea-worthi-
ness with economy and, with power, will make moderate speeds.
worthy, small sailing boat of very shal~
low draft. The “Southwind” was designed
to fill this need at relatively low cost and
with little labor. The old round-sided sail-
ing dories of New England, and the Sea~
bright Skiffs of New Jersey prove that
the flat-bottom may be combined with
rounded topsides to make a seaworthy
small boat.
However, these are usually rather nar-
row on the bottom and thus can carry only
small area of sail, so to make “Southwind”
faster in summer weather her bottom was
made wider and approaches the sharpie in
proportion. She ean be built with or with-
3out a cuddy, as indicated in the plans. In
so small a boat a cuddy must be very
cramped and provides overnight accom-
modations of pup-tent standards.
The double-ender form of hull is not
farticularly suited to the use of an out
board engine. Yet power can be used if
desired by fitting some kind of a metal
side-bracket on which a small outboard
engine can be hung. The disadvantage of
this is that the motor must be unshipped
when sailing in a fresh breeze and so the
engine ought to be quite light. This in turn
limits the power available to less than Lig
hp. which would. produce a maximum
speed in a calm of about 4% mph. per-
haps. To enable more power to be utilized
Thave given details for an outboard engine
well between frames 16 and 18. This plan,
if employed, will allow a heavier and more
powerful engine to be used. It is suggested
that the bottom of the well be closed by a
non-watertight door when under sail to re~
duce the drag of the well.
Fig. 1 shows the lines of “Southwind,”
with the offsets and a typical section show-
ing general construction. In shaping this
hull, a very old idea has been utilized to
reduce the work in lofting. In ancient times
it was usual to shape all of the frames with
bul three molds which could be fitted to-
gether to form each of the frames; this
method was called “whole molding.” In
“Southwind” the same principle has been
applied so that all the frames and the stem
and stern knees are formed by one curve
mold, This mold is shown in the lines
drawing with its offsets, and is called the
“Master Curve Mold” there.
The lines and the typical construction
section should be carefully studied before
the boat is laid down in the loft. First, it
will be noted that the boat is built dory-
fashion, without a keel. The bottom, then,
will be shaped and put together to form
the “keel” and then the rest of the hull
will be built upon it. The lines show every
other frame and so the half-breadth plan
will have to be faired in, though the di-
agonals shown will not be required in loft-
ing. The first step, then, is to draw the
profile and half-breadth plans full-size in
building paper or plywood, from the off-
sets given, and then to draw the perpen-
diculars that will represent the frames not
given in the offsets, You will have a frame
at every foot mark between the perpen-
diculars, Next, make the Master Curve
Mold as shown on either plywood, heavy
cardboard, pattern lumber or other suit-
able material. The body plan is now to be
made—lift the heights and half-breadths of
each frame from the profile and half-
4
breadth plans just completed. When you
have a row of spots on the body-plan water
lines, sheer and chine, fit the Master Curve
Mold to them and sweep in the curve. It
will be noticed that the mold will have to
be shifted upward or downward from
frame to frame. The spots for the stem and
stern liners, in the profile, are likewise
taken from the offsets and swept in by use
of the Master Curve Mold. Probably the
offsets will not be accurate enough for the
curve to hit every spot but the mold curve
should pass through all but one or two, at
least. When the thicknesses of the plank-
ing of sides and bottom are laid off, the
mold will also be used to sweep in the
sides represented by the outboard or mold-
ing edge of the frames. It can also be used
to lay off the inside edge of each frame and
so it will not be necessary to lay off all of
these frame curves with a batten.
‘The bottom must be laid off and ex-
panded for length; the molded lengths of
the floor frames ascertained, and the shape
of the brackets holding bottom and side
frames together obtained. All this wil] re-
quire accurate lofting to obtain the neces-
bevels. Check the Construction Plan,
Fig. 2, for the necessary information for
lofting the structural parts of the hull. and
the Specifications and Building Instruc-
tions for sizes. It should be observed that
a short “Chine Log” or batten is shown;
this is only desirable if the lowest strake,
the “chine strake,” will have to be butted
amidships. This will be necessary if wide
plank is not available for the sides. If you
cannot get the plank in sufficient length,
ina width up to 14 in., it will be well to use
the chine log or batten as shown and to
butt the two lengths of each chine strake
on this batten, In most localities wide plank
of such length as is required for single
length chine strakes is not now available
or is very expensive. If there is any doubt
about the matter, the chine battens should
be utilized as in any case they will
strengthen the hull at a place where it will
receive much punishment in service.
It should be mentioned that the offsets
show the height of cither cuddy sides, or
coaming if cuddy is not employed, in a
double line of ofiscts in the offset tables.
In the half-breadth offsets there is a Z.
mark between stations 10 and 12—this
means the sweep is not continuous as there
will be a breaks or offset in the coaming and
trunk line; this is noted in the half-
breadth plan by offsets there. The top of
the coaming, when the cuddy is not em-
ployed, is shown by dotted lines on the pro-
file and when these are followed the deck
box is omitted, The dimensions of the centerbuard and its ease will be found in the
details accompanying the construction
plan, Fig. 2. The rudder post is perpen-
dicular to the base line and, as shown, is
8 in, afore station 20, The dimensions for
the rake of the masts will give the locations
of the centers of partners and steps, but
the actual rake will be established as a re-
sult of trials under sail and so the stepping
of masis is to be done to allow rake altera~
tion without carpentry.
‘The construction to be followed in
“Southwind” is fully shown in Fig. 2. The
boat is to be built right-side-up with the
bottom sprung, on top of a series of forms.
These forms should be laid down in the loft
work. They are merely a series of hurdles
made of two uprights and a crosspiece and
well braced. Their height will be deter-
mined so as to properly camber the bottom,
fore-and-aft and place the work at a con-
venient building height. A form should be
located at every even station—those for
which offsets are given in the lines and
single supports at the bow and stern. The
forms should be made of 2-in. x 4-in, com-
mon lumber, well braced with cross-mem-
bers and struts of 1-in. plank. If possible,
there should be some provision for bracing
the bottom, when sprung to camber on the
forms, from overhead. If this cannot be
done the bottom will have to be secured
to the forms by nailing it to cleats on the
sides of the forms’ crosspieces, clear of the
floor timbers and in such case great care
is necessary to secure the forms so they
cannot lift and leave the base line.
When the bottom has been formed and
secured by the floor timbers, the whole is
set on the forms and sprung to the required
fore-and-aft camber. This must be done
accurately or there will be much trouble
later. Strike the centerline along the bot-
tom and then run a centerline chalk-line or
a wire above the work, sufficiently high to
clear the stem and stern liners when in
place. The upper line can be stretched be-
tween two uprights set clear of the work,
Now the stem and stern liners can be made
up. These are made dory-fashion, without
a vabbet for the side plank and are formed
of knees bolted to the bottom. Once these
are in place the centerboard case should
be partly made up and fitted. The case
can be assembled up to one plank above
the logs. The centerboard case logs will
have to be cut to fit the camber of the bot-
tom and it would be an excellent plan to
blue-chalk them to get a very accurate
fitting. The blocking for the rudder-post
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