HG 57

2002

IPM* Series: Peppers

Symptoms­ Possible Causes­ Notes­
FOLIAGE

Older leaf drop­

Leaf yellowing­ Normal for bottom leaves to yellow and drop as plant ages­
Root knot nematode Plant becomes yellow and stunted: small nodules cover roots­
­ Verticillium­ Leaves yellow, wilt and curl upward­
­ ­ Fusarium wilt­ Slow yellowing of foliage; wilting of upper leaves­
Aphids­ Chlorosis and leaf drop from severe infestations­
Whitefly­­ Small, transparent oval insects on leaf undersides. Tiny, white
insects fly up when plant is disturbed­
Spider mites­ Yellow stippling; leaves may appear dirty on undersides­Lower
Nitrogen deficiency leaves yellow­
Magnesium deficiency­ Interveinal chlorosis of lower leaves­

Leaf spots and blotches­ Bacterial spot­­ Small, brown, water-soaked lesions with yellow halos; enlarge to
blotches­
­ Cercospora­ Circular spots with gray centers and dark brown borders­
­ ­ Phytopthora blight­ Dark green, water-soaked areas­
Powdery mildew­­ Yellow spots or blotches; powdery growth may be seen on upper
sides­
Viruses­ Variable mottling with leaf distortion­
Chemical injury­ Round or irregular dead spot­
Chilling injury­ Brown or black, water-soaked blotches­

Leaf and stem distortion­ Herbicide damage­ New leaves become narrow with wavy edges­
Mosaic viruses­ Crinkled and puckered leaves; usually accompanied by mottling­
­ ­ Thrips­or cyclamen mites Leaves curl upward; silvery to bronze sheen on undersides­

Leaf curling­ Aphids­ See above­

Thrips­or cyclamen mites See above­
­ Viruses­ See above­

­Leaf scorching­ Drought stress­ Leaf margin burn­

Chemical burn­ Random, irregular spots up to entire leaf burned­
­ Fertilizer burn­ Leaf margin burn from roots contacting excessive salts­

Leaf and stem browning­ Bacterial spot­­ Leaves die and eventually drop; may progress to stems appearing
as long, brown streaks­
Phytopthora blight­ Black lesions on stems at plant base or on upper branches­
Southern blight­ Initial sudden wilting followed by browning from plant base up­

*­ Integrated Pest Management (IPM):

The balance approach to pest problems

1
For more information on this and other topics visit the University of Maryland Extension website at [Link]
Entire plant wilts ­Fusarium wilt­ Begins with slight yellowing and wilting of upper leaves­
Verticillium wilt­ Begins with slight yellowing and wilting of lower leaves­
Bacterial wilt­ Wilting without leaf yellowing­
Southern blight­­­ Sudden wilt, lower stem with tan lesion, white strands of fungal
growth and mustard seed-sized, tan sclerotia present (fungal sur­
vival structures) ­
Phytopthora blight­ Black lesion at base of plant and occasionally on stem ­
Moisture extremes­ Too much or too little water­
European corn borer in stem­ Hole in stem with sawdust-like excrement­

Leaves with holes­ Flea beetles­­ Tiny holes in shotgun pattern. Small, dark shiny insects that jump
when disturbed­
Colorado potato beetle Rare feeder on peppers­
Caterpillars­ Armyworms and other occasional feeders­
­
Leaves chewed­ Colorado potato beetle­ See above­

Slow growth­ Inadequate sunlight­ See above­
­ Poor soil conditions­ Tight clay soil; low soil fertility; poor drainage­­
­ Low temperatures­
­ Varietal characteristic­­ Some chiles, like habanero, require up to 120 days to ripen from
transplanting­

Plants fall over (lodging)­ Lack of plant support­

­ Poorly developed roots
Waterlogged soil­
­
­Brittle branches­ Drought stress­ ­Remove pods by cutting­­
Harvesting techniques
­ ­Varietal characteristic­

­FRUIT­

Failure to fruit or flower­ Temperature extremes Temperatures over 90° F. and below 50° F.­
Moisture extremes­ Too much or too little water­­­­
Low or high soil pH­
­ Low fertility soil­
Planted too late­
Inadequate sunlight­ Plants need a minimum of 6 hrs. of sun­
Tarnished plant bug­ May feed on blooms during dry weather­
­
­ lossom drop­
B Temperature extremes See above­
Moisture extremes­ See above­
Tarnished plant bug­ See above­

Large holes chewed in Various caterpillars (see text)­

fruit­
Pepper maggot­
­Small holes in fruits­ European corn borer­ Very small holes or dimples­
Hole near stem end; fruit soon collapses­
­ Bacterial spot­
Spots on fruits­ Anthracnose­ Raised, wart-like brown lesions­
Stink bugs­ Water-soaked sunken lesions that expand­
Blossom-end rot­ Cloudy, yellow blotches directly below skin­
­ Gray mold (botrytis) Dark leathery spot on blossom-end­
­ Alternaria­ Small pale halos- “ghost spots”­
­ Small, brown, leathery lesions with concentric circles­
­ Blossom-end rot­
­ arge discolored areas
L Gray mold (botrytis)­ See above; lesion can enlarge and may extend to sides­
on pods­ Phytopthora blight­­ Light-colored, soft rot­
(cont’d next pg.) 2
 Large discolored areas Water-soaked, dull green spots covered with cream-colored mold
on pods (continued)­­ Sunscald­ growth­
Thrips or cyclomen mite feeding­ Sunken, light-colored lesions on exposed fruits­
Varietal characteristic­ Brown russeting in streaks or patches­
­ Green, immature pods may develop black streaks prior to ripening­
­ Thrips or cyclomen mite feeding­
Distorted fruits­ Poor pollination­ See above­­
Viruses­
Malformed, rough or spotted­
­ Bacterial soft rot­
Soft rots­ Gray mold­ Pods soften and quickly collapse ­
Chilling injury­ See above­
­ May be observed after frost or freeze­
­ Insufficient ripening time­
Failure to ripen­
Viruses­
­Uneven ripening­ Cold temperatures­ Yellow spots or concentric rings­
Varietal characteristic­

TRANSPLANTS AND SEEDLINGS

Symptoms­ Possible Causes­ Notes­
White-tipped leaves­
Frost damage­ Peppers insufficiently hardened; planted too early­

Purple leaves­ Cold damage­Phosphorous See above­Low temperatures prevent phosphorous uptake­
deficiency­
­
Wilted­ Wind burn­ Leaves may become pale and dry­
Water stress­ Lack of adequate water; related to wind burn­
­
­Plants fall over and die­ Damping-off ­ Tap root and lower stem shrivel and darken­Night feeders; plants cut
Cutworms­ off at soil line­
­
Leaves and stems chewed­ Slugs and snails­ Night feeders; slimy trails may be seen­

Plants cut off at soil line­ Cutworm­­ Plants sometimes “disappear”; dragged into underground burrow by
cutworm ­
Slugs and snails­ See above­

Small holes in leaves­ Flea beetles­ Small, dark, shiny beetles that jump when disturbed; “shotgun”
feeding pattern­

­Pale green leaves­ Lack of nitrogen­ Cool soils contribute to poor nutrient uptake­
Lack of sunlight ­Pepper plants require a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight­

­Leaf yellowing­ Spider mites­ Fine stippling, especially in hot, dry weather­
­ Whitefly Tiny, white insects fly up when plant is disturbed; usually from
greenhouse where plants were grown­

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The integrated pest management (IPM) approach to prevent­ may be sprayed on affected plants but this will not reverse
ing or managing pepper problems is recommended and can be existing damage. You can reduce blossom-end rot by:
summarized as follows:
• Adding calcitic or dolomitic lime in the fall to maintain
1. Correctly identify the problem; if insect or disease, learn the proper pH.
life cycle and habits.
• Mixing in a handful of ground limestone with your garden
2. Learn to anticipate and prevent problems; reduce plant soil from each hole when transplanting.
stress. • Mulching your plants to conserve soil moisture.
• Watering deeply and regularly.
3. Monitor the problem for worsening symptoms.
• Avoiding high nitrogen fertilizers.
4. If the level of damage becomes unacceptable, choose the least Fruit Set
toxic control. Blossom-end rot
Habanero Pepper
Cultural/Environmental Problems
Pepper plants are frost-sensitive perennials grown as annu­
als in temperate climates. Plant stems become semi-woody
when mature and the growth habit may be compact, erect or
prostrate. For best results, pepper plants should each be given
3-5 sq. ft. of growing area and a minimum of 6 hrs. of direct
sunlight. The soil should be well-drained and amended with
organic matter and have a pH in the 6.0-7.0 range. All bell Blossom-end rot
pepper and most chile pepper plants are members of Capsicum Bell Pepper
annum. Some chile types (e.g. habanero, aji, roccoto) belong
to other species. Pepper plants are largely self-fertile but in­
sects may be responsible for considerable crossing within and
between species. Therefore, saving seed from year to year can Growth, blossom set and fruiting can be quite variable through
lead to unpredictable results unless plants are screened from the season and are particularly affected by temperature. Night
insects or separated by 500 ft. temperatures below 60°F and above 75°F cause blossoms
and small fruits to drop. Day temperatures above 95°F can
also lead to blossom drop. Keep in mind that some blossom
Nutritional drop is to be expected on healthy plants growing under near-
ideal conditions. Planting peppers so they receive afternoon
Slow, early season growth can usually be attributed to grow­ shade, cooling plants off with a water spray and covering
ing plants under cool conditions or purchasing over-grown, plants with a shade cloth or floating row cover can help to
stressed transplants. Planting before soil temperature reaches combat problems associated with high temperatures.
65F will cause plants to “just sit there.” It is better to pot
plants up into a larger container and grow them indoors until
the ground has warmed. Fertilizing with a high phosphorous, Fruit Ripening / Pungency
soluble fertilizer, setting plants through a black plastic mulch
and covering plants with a floating row cover can help encour­
age early growth. Pinching off early buds and flowers will Almost all pepper varieties produce
accelerate root development and improve yields. green pods that change color as they
ripen. Some varieties may go through 2
Pepper plants require a supply of nutrients throughout the or 3 color changes (e.g. jalapeno goes
growing season, particularly during fruiting. Small peppers from green to black to red.) Bell pep­
may result from inadequate fertilization. Feed plants lightly pers may reach a mature green stage 70-
with a balanced fertilizer every 2-3 weeks after fruiting begins. 80 days after transplanting and require
an additional 2-3 weeks to fully ripen.
Blossom-end rot is a physiological disorder that results from Some types of chiles take 110-125 days
Jalapeno peppers
a lack of calcium in enlarging fruits. The fruit tissue disinte­ to fully mature. Late-maturing varieties
grates on the blossom or bottom end of the fruit producing a may not produce ripe pods if planted
sunken, leathery, dark brown lesion. Symptoms appear when too late. Furthermore, pods are more vulnerable to diseases,
there is insufficient calcium in the soil or when plants can’t insect pests and environmental disorders as they approach
move calcium to the enlarging fruit due to a lack of water. full ripeness. Longitudinal and concentric growth cracking, or
Affected fruits should be pulled immediately and discarded “rain checking”, is a common but not very serious condition
because they will continue to use up valuable water and nutri­ resulting from soil moisture fluctuations, rainy weather and
ents. heavy dew.
Plants tend to “grow out of the problem”. Calcium chloride
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 Sunscald of pods occurs when Cover the soil around pepper plants with a mulch and don’t
pods are exposed to direct sunlight. crowd plants together. Avoid overhead watering and working
Sunscald often results from defo­ with plants when foliage is wet. Fertilize plants to support
liation and appears as light tan or new growth. Spray with a labeled copper fungicide*, when
white areas that feel soft or papery. symptoms are first observed. Remove and hot compost all
crop residues. Where bacterial spot is a perennial problem
Pungency seems to increase with consider covering the soil with black plastic or landscape
ambient temperatures, length of fabric.
time growing and thinness of the
Sunscald on bell pepper pod wall. Typically, one finds
Viruses (Cucumber Mosaic, Potato Y and X,
genetic variability in pungency
between plants grown from the same seed packet and even
Tobacco Mosaic and Tobacco Etch)
between different pods from the same plant. This is especially
Specific virus diseases are difficult to distinguish and produce
true for less domesticated, non-hybridized types of chiles (e.g.
a wide range of symptoms including stunted, slow growing
ancho, mulatto, pasilla and numex types). Always wear rub-
plants, twisted, crinkled, cupped or deformed leaves, and leaf
ber gloves when processing chiles or cleaning seeds. Pepper
discoloration (yellow mottling and mosaic patterns, ringspots
branches tend to become brittle and may break under a heavy
and dark-green banding). Aphid, thrips and leafhopper feed­
fruit load or in a strong wind. Support your pepper plants with
ing transmit most viruses common in Maryland. Tobacco
cages or trellises and consider cutting pods with a knife or
mosaic virus (TMV) is mechanically transmitted by tools and
scissors rather than twisting them off the plant.
handling plants. Viral diseases are systemic and symptoms
tend to progress and worsen through the season.
Diseases Affecting Foliage,
Cupped, deformed
Stems and Roots leaves

Bacterial Spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesi-

catoria)

The symptoms of bacterial spot disease begin as small circular

pimples on leaf undersides and as small water-soaked lesions
on the upper leaf surface. Spots enlarge during warm, wet and
humid weather and turn brown. Leaves will drop with severe
infections, resulting in sunscald. The bacteria over-winter
on crop residue and are seed-borne. The disease is spread by Yellow mottling
splashing rain and working with wet, infected plants. Hot, dry
weather will slow the spread of this disease. This is one of the
most common diseases of peppers in Maryland. Control: Remove and discard plants that display severe viral
symptoms. Control weeds around the garden and insect pests
that suck plant sap. Grow or purchase transplants resistant to
Bacterial leaf spot TMV.

Blights and Wilts

Phytophthora blight, Fu-
sarium wilt and southern
blight are soil-borne dis­
eases that produce cankers
on plant stems near the
soil line and cause plants
Bacterial spot
to wilt. Phytophthora also
causes water-soaked leaf le­ Phytophthora blight
Control: Select resistant cultivars. Jalapeno and serrano sions, black stem lesions at
chiles seem to be less susceptible to bacterial spot than other branches and root rot. Fusarium causes a browning of internal
types. Treat seeds prior to planting by soaking them for 2 stem tissue.
minutes in a 10% chlorine bleach solution (one part chlorine
bleach to 9 parts water).Rinse with water for 5 minutes and
thoroughly dry seeds.

* Denotes an organic fungicide

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 Control: Select resistant cultivars.
When symptoms are widespread Control: Aphids are gener­
it is best to remove and discard ally more of a problem May
plants. These diseases are long- through June and again in
lived in the soil and resistant the fall. Control is often not
varieties are not available. Avoid necessary because predator
poorly drained soils. Plant pep­ and parasite activity. Common
pers on ridges or beds and irrigate predators are green lacewing
when necessary around the base larvae, lady beetles, hover fly
Southern blight of the plants. Rotate peppers to a larvae and predatory bugs.
different area next year. Curling leaves caused Several small wasps also
by aphids parasitize aphids. Parasitized
aphids turn brown and remain
on the leaves. If necessary, aphids may be controlled with an
application of insecticidal soap.
Fruit Diseases
Greenhouse Whitefly,
In addition to blossom-end rot and sunscald, several fungal
and bacterial diseases attack pepper pods. Anthracnose ap­ (Trialeurodes vaporariorum)
pears on mature green and ripening pods as small, shrunken
lesions. Dark-colored concentric rings may be observed with
masses of salmon-colored spores. Alternaria rot produces
small brown lesions that also contain concentric rings and is
associated with sunscald. Bacterial soft rot causes pods to
become soft and watery and usually appears after harvest.
Botrytis, or gray mold causes light-colored soft spots to form
which can quickly enlarge. Phytophthora will cause large,
water-soaked spots covered with a cream colored mold. Virus
diseases may cause fruits to be small, deformed, spotted or
discolored. Whitefly adult Whitefly nymphs
Anthracnose on pepper Whiteflies infest many vegetables during the summer. Adults
are small, white, moth-like insects that may fly from the plants
when disturbed. The immature whiteflies are tiny, scale-like
insects that feed on the undersides of leaves. Both the adults
and nymphs (immatures) suck the sap from leaves. Heavy
infestations cause leaves to turn yellow or appear dry. White­
flies secrete honeydew, which causes the leaves to become
sticky and supports the growth of black sooty mold.

Control: Whiteflies are attacked by parasites and predators

which normally keep them under control. If additional mea­
Bacterial soft rot on sures are needed, insecticidal soap, pyrethrum or a commercial
pepper. blend of both is effective for control. They must be sprayed
on the undersides of the leaves to contact the whiteflies and
only sprayed when temperatures are cool. Insecticidal soaps
Control: Keep plants supported and mulched. Provide ad­ and other insecticides can burn plants when temperatures are
equate spacing. Remove affected pods immediately. Control above the low 80’s°F. Check container labels for precautions.
diseases that may defoliate plants.
Flea Beetles, Epitrix sp.
Pests Flea beetles are small beetles with enlarged back legs that
Aphids enable them to jump. The most common species on peppers
is the potato flea beetle, which is 2 mm long, black, and has
Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects, usually green or pink, yellow rear legs. The adult beetles chew small, round holes or
with long, slender mouthparts which they use to suck out plant pitted areas in leaves. The larvae feed on roots, but cause no
fluids. This feeding causes curling and wilting of the leaves. damage.
They excrete honeydew, which makes the leaves sticky and
supports the growth of sooty mold. Two species of aphids
attack peppers in Maryland, the green peach aphid (most com­
mon) and the potato aphid.

6
Control: To manage flea beetle problems, protect young Control: Stink bugs are attacked by parasitic wasps and flies
plants with floating row cover. Older plants can usually toler­ and several predatory beetles and bugs. In the vegetable
ate heavy feeding. Flea beetles overwinter in plant debris and garden look for stink bug egg masses and removes them. The
weeds. Remove these refuges by removing or rototilling the eggs are barrel or keg shaped with distinct circular lids and
weeds and debris in the fall. laid in groups of 10 or more on leaf surfaces. Remove or
rototill crop debris at the end of the season and control weeds
Colorado Potato Beetle to help reduce hibernating sites of adults.
Leptinotarsa decimlineata
Tarnished Plant Bug, Lygus lineolaris
The Colorado potato Colorado
beetle prefers potato and Potato The tarnished plant bug is an occasional pest on peppers.
eggplant but will attack Beetle and Adults are about 1/4 inch long, mottled brown, with long,
peppers if preferred hosts eggs segmented antennae. They are mainly a problem during hot
are not available. The weather. They feed on blossoms and buds causing them to
adult beetle is stout, drop. This damage may be confused with drop from high
about 3/8 of an inch long, temperatures.
and has yellow wing
covers with black stripes. Spider Mites
The larvae are red to or­
ange, stout, with 2 rows Spider mites can be a very serious
of black spots along their problem on pepper plants during
sides. Both adults and hot, dry weather. Spider mites are
larvae feed on the leaves, very tiny with 8 legs. They vary
leaving only veins and in color from light green with two
Colorado potatoe
stems. dark spots to red. To the naked eye
beetle nymphs
they look like tiny moving dots.
Control: If only a few are present, hand pick and destroy The mites feed on the undersides
them. A B.t. product called “M-Trak” may be used to control of leaves and damage appears as
young larvae in heavy infestations. There are up to 3 genera­ fine stippling on the upper surfaces.
tions of this beetle in Maryland each growing season. Lower leaf surfaces appear dirty and may or may not have
webbing. Heavy mite infestations cause leaves to turn yellow
Stink Bugs and eventually brown. To monitor for spider mites, examine
the leaves closely with a hand lens, if necessary. If damage
is seen, but no mites are found, check leaves higher up on the
Southern Green Stink Bug, (Nezara viridula)
plant. A simple technique for sampling is to tap a few terminal
Brown Stink Bug, (Euschistus servus) leaves over a piece of white paper. Wait a few seconds and
watch for movement.

Control: Because spider mites feed on lower leaf surfaces,

they are difficult to control by spraying. All lower leaf surfac­
es must be contacted with the spray to kill the mites. Insecti­
cide sprays also easily damage plants that have had heavy mite
feeding. This is especially true of insecticidal soap during hot,
dry weather. Predatory mites are an excellent option. They
will hunt down and kill the spider mites and provide long-term
control. They are available through mail-order sources.
Southern green stink bug Brown stink bug

Stink bugs are shield shaped insects with long, sucking mouth
Caterpillars
parts and long jointed antennae. Their name comes from the
fact that they give off an offensive odor when disturbed. The Hornworms (Manduca spp).
most common species that cause damage to peppers in Mary­
land are the brown and southern green stink bugs. On pepper Hornworms grow up to 4 inches
fruit, damage appears as dark pinpricks surrounded by light long, are green with diagonal
discolored areas that may be as large as 1/2 inch in diameter. stripes and have a horn at the rear
The spots become white and pithy, but remain firm as the fruit end. They may strip individual
ripens. branches of a pepper plant. To find
the hornworms look in areas of the
plant that are being
defoliated and on the ground for
7
the presence of large, black droppings. Remove the caterpil­ Thrips
lars by handpicking. It is not necessary to spray for them.
Thrips are very tiny insects, 1-2mm long. They are slender
Armyworms (Spodoptera species) with narrow wings fringed with hairs. They may be white, yel­
low, brown or black. The immatures are smaller and usually
Armyworms have distinct white or yellow. There are several generations. Some species
lengthwise stripes, are overwinter in the soil; others die in winter are replaced in
smooth, and can reach up the spring by populations migrating in from the south. Some
to 1 1/2 inches long. They thrips may feed on only one plant species, while others are
primarily damage the fruit general feeders on the flowers and leaves of tree, shrubs and
and are best controlled by perennials.
hand picking and removing
damaged fruit.
Thrips

Tomato Fruitworm
(Heliothis zea)

Tomato fruitworms usu­

pepper pods. The cater­
ally only damage the
pillars vary in color from
greenish-yellow, reddish
or brown, have yellow­
ish heads, distinct stripes
along the sides, and short,
whisker-like spines over
the body. They may reach Thrips on pepper
1 5/8 inches when mature.
Fruitworms normally be­ Some thrips species feed only on pollen and cause no dam­
gin feeding near the stem age. Others suck plant juices in a linear pattern that looks
end and eventually enter the fruit. To control handpick the like irregular white streaks and give a silvery appearance to
caterpillars and remove infested fruit. damaged leaves. Some species may deposit minute black fecal
spots on leaves.
Cutworms Thrips can cause damage to peppers in the garden. Feeding
on leaves results in thickened, distorted leaves. Damage on
Black cutworm (Agrotis ipsilon) the fruit appears as brown or silver colored areas near the cap.
This damage closely resembles that caused by cyclamen mites.
The primary cutworm that causes damage to pepper plants is Thrips can also vector tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens
the black cutworm. The caterpillar is gray to black, with a necrotic spot virus.
lighter stripe down the middle of its back. Other species are
a dull brownish color. Mature caterpillars can reach 1 3/4 Control: Thrips generally do not require control in the home
inches in length and curl up into a C-shape when disturbed. garden. They often become pests in June when weeds dry
Cutworms are generally a problem during May and June. The down and come in to well-watered, flower borders. Thrips are
caterpillars clip off pepper transplants at or just below the soil usually controlled by predatory insects such as minute pirate
level and are active at night. Look for cutoff seedlings and dig bugs and predatory mites.
around the base of the plant for the caterpillars.
Cyclamen Mites
Control: To protect seedlings and transplants from cutworm
damage, wrap them with cardboard collars. A simple collar
can be made from a paper cup with the bottom removed. Push Cyclamen mites are tiny, pests that attack a wide range of
the cup into the soil to hold it in place. Cardboard tubes from flowers, usually in spring and late summer or fall when humid­
paper towels or toilet tissue can be cut to size for collars. ity is high. Cyclamen mites can be a minor pest of pepper and
tomato. The mite injects a growth regulator into foliage while
feeding that causes leaves to twist and crinkle and sometimes
become very large. The symptoms mimic virus injury.
Fruit feeding produces a dramatic russetting - usually at the

8
stem end. Fruits appear to be covered with a very fine, brown ed pods ripen prematurely and often rot from disease organ­
netting that feels slightly rough. Cyclamen mites usually come isms that entered through the feeding hole. Larvae may also
in on greenhouse plants or migrate in from strawberry plant­ bore into stems or branches of pepper plants. Sawdust-like
ings and are difficult to control when conditions favor their excrement may be visible near the entry hole. The infested
growth. stems wilt and may break off at the entry point.

Control: Remove distorted leaves and injured fruit. Control: Check pods for signs of borer activity and dispose of
infested pods. Remove infested branches below the entry hole.
It is not practical to spray for this pest.
Pepper Maggot (Zonosemata electa)
Cyclamen mite Slugs
(under microscope)
Slugs feed on pepper fruit that is in contact with the ground
and on the leaves of transplants. Most slug feeding is done at
night and the only evidence of their presence during the day
may be slime trails. Keep ripening fruit picked, especially
those near the ground. Dispose of any damaged fruit. Trans­
plants can be protected from slugs with cardboard collars as
for cutworms. Keep mulch away from seedlings until they are
well established. Slugs hide in cool, moist, dark areas during
the day. Remove debris, boards, etc. from gardens to help
eliminate shelter areas for slugs.
Cyclamen mite damage
on peppers Control: Barriers of diatomaceous earth around the garden

The pepper maggot fly is yellow, 3/8 inch long, and has clear
wings with brown bands. The maggot is whitish, turning yel­
low as it matures, pointed at the head end, and 1/2 inch long
when fully grown. The adult fly emerges in July and lays eggs
just under the skin of young pepper pods. The egg punctures
are elliptical and become shallow depressions as the fruit
enlarges. The maggots feed on the core inside of the fruit for
about 16 days. They usually leave the peppers and drop to the
ground to pupate before the pods are harvested. Damaged
peppers turn red prematurely and rot. have been shown to be effective. However, these barriers
are difficult to maintain because they lose effectiveness after
Control: Monitor pepper pods for the egg punctures. Pick and becoming wet.
destroy any infested pods. Remove any rotting pods as these
attract fruit flies. Nematodes
Root Knot Nematodes, (Meloidigyne sp.)
European Corn Borer (Ostrinia nubilalis)
Nematodes are microscopic worms of which many types feed
Corn borer larvae may damage pepper pods and stems. The on plant roots. The root knot nematode is a common problem
larva is flesh colored with brown spots on each segment and a on peppers. This nematode causes swellings or galls on the
brown head. The mature larva is about 1 inch long. The larvae roots of pepper plants as well as other vegetables. Nema­
usually enter the fruit under the stem cap. The damage is dif­ todes reduce the plant’s ability to take up water and nutrients.
ficult to see at first because the entry hole is very small. There Symptoms include wilting, reduced vigor, smaller fruit and
may be sawdust-like excrement around the hole. The larva leaves. The only sure way to check if a plant has root knot
may also enter through the side of the pepper pod causing
dimpling in that area. The larvae feed on the seed core. Infest­
Root knots caused by
European corn borer nematodes
on pepper

9
nematodes is to dig it up and check the root system for the
galls. Root knot tends to be more of a problem in sandy soils. Flint, M.L. 1990. Pests of the Garden and Small Farm, University of
California Publication 3332. 286pp. Division of Agriculture and Natural
Control: Use nematode resistant varieties of peppers in the Resources, University of California, 6701 San Pablo Ave., Oakland, CA
garden. They will have an “N” on the label or seed packet 94608-1239, (415) 642-2431. $30.00.
indicating nematode resistance. Also, if nematodes have been
Gilberg, L. ed. 1993. Garden Pests and Diseases. Menlo Park, Ca.:
a problem, move peppers or other susceptible plants to another
Sunset Publishing Corporation. 112pp.
part of the garden. Organic soil amendments such as peat,
manure and compost can be added to the soil to help reduce MacNab, A.A., A.F. Sherf, and J.K. Springer. 1983. Identifying Diseases
the impact of nematodes on vegetable plants. They may con­ of Vegetables. Pennsylvia State University, College of Agriculture.
tain substances that inhibit nematodes, but are most useful for University Park, Pa. 62pp.
their ability to increase the water-holding capacity and nutrient
availability of the soil. Putnam, C., ed. 1991. Controlling Vegetable Pests. San Ramon, Ca.:
Ortho Books. 160pp.
Artwork: USDA.
Reviewed By:
References:
Charles McClurg, Ph.D., Dept. of Horticulture, University of Maryland,
Carr, A. 1979. Color Handbook of Garden Insects. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale College Park, MD.
Press. 241pp.
Black, L., S. Green, G. Hartman and J. Poulos. 1991. Pepper Diseases: Stephen A. Johnston, Ph.D., Extension Specialist, Plant Pathology,
A Field Guide. Publication No. 91-347. Asian Vegetable Research and Rutgers University, Bridgeton, NJ.
Development Center. P.O. Box 205, Taipei 10099. 98pp.

Protect the Bay

Use Pesticides and Fertilizers Wisely
ALWAYS READ THE PESTICIDE LABEL AND FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.

Mention of trade names does not constitute an endorsement by the Maryland Cooperative Extension, University of Maryland, College Park, MD.

Do you have a plant or insect pest question?

Visit us at [Link]/hgic
and click Ask Maryland’s Garden Experts

Authors: Jon Traunfeld and Mary Kay Malinoski, University of Maryland Extension
Specialists, Home and Garden Information Center

This publication is a series of publications of the University of Maryland Extension and The Home and Garden Information Center. For more information on related
publications and programs, [Link] Please visit [Link] to find out more about Extension programs in Maryland.
The University of Maryland, College of Agriculture and Natural Resources programs are open to all and will not discriminate against anyone because of race, age,
sex, color, sexual orientation, physical or mental disability, religion, ancestry, or national origin, marital status, genetic information, or political affiliation, or gender
identity and expression.

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For more information on this and other topics visit the University of Maryland Extension website at [Link]