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Pattern Adaptation For Style

The document discusses pattern adaptation techniques for different styles from Archibald Whife's 1960 book on pattern cutting. It includes drafting a draped lounge coat, adding side bodies or extended front darts, pleated and belted backs, and details on dinner jackets. Additional context is provided from a 1949 Tailor & Cutter article discussing dart treatments including extended front darts and side body styles. An example coat by Bailey & Weatherill is shown as a moderate drape style.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
383 views15 pages

Pattern Adaptation For Style

The document discusses pattern adaptation techniques for different styles from Archibald Whife's 1960 book on pattern cutting. It includes drafting a draped lounge coat, adding side bodies or extended front darts, pleated and belted backs, and details on dinner jackets. Additional context is provided from a 1949 Tailor & Cutter article discussing dart treatments including extended front darts and side body styles. An example coat by Bailey & Weatherill is shown as a moderate drape style.

Uploaded by

John Dover
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  • Introduction to Pattern Adaptation: Introduces the concepts of pattern adaptations for style, discussing initial considerations and the scope of adaptation techniques.
  • Extension of Darts: Discusses the technique and purpose of extending the front and underarm darts in pattern making.
  • Cutting from Block Patterns: Describes methods for cutting patterns from blocks, including temperature and fabric considerations.
  • Lowered Waist Style: Explains the method for creating a lowered waist style, utilizing specific measurements and adjustments.
  • Sack-Coat Style: Outlines the technique for adapting patterns to a sack-coat style, highlighting key tailoring alterations.
  • Dinner Jacket Styles: Covers the intricacies of crafting dinner jackets, focusing on specific styles and tailoring methods.
  • Bottom Placement: Details the strategic placement of bottoms in various garment designs, ensuring optimal fit and style.
  • Past Publications: Includes a re-publication of previous articles on similar topics, providing historical context and evolution of styles.
  • Historical Methods: Presents historical methods and methodologies in pattern making, including major changes over time.
  • Modern Adaptations: Describes modern approaches to dart treatment and alterations in contemporary pattern making.
  • Example Jackets: Visual examples showcasing the application of described tailoring techniques in actual jacket designs.
  • Conclusion and References: Concludes with reference links and discussion on modern adaptations, providing a wrap-up of the covered topics.

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Pattern Adaptation for Style


Started by Sator , Jun 29 2010 11:51 AM

Sator Posted 29 June 2010 - 11:51 AM

This comes from Chapter VI of Archibald Whife's book Cutting from Block Patterns (published circa 1960).

Included are sections on drafting a draped and semi-draped style of lounge, adding a side body or an extended
front dart, pleated and belted backs, as well as dinner jackets.

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Sator Posted 08 March 2011 - 04:13 PM

Here is the original text published in the weekly Tailor & Cutter, June 17, 1949 (I thought of cropping out the
irrelevant bit about the darts contest but I decided to keep it for your amusement ):

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Of interest is the last passage briefly discussing the treatment of darts including the extended front dart and the
side body style.

On the very next page (Whife?) shows a coat by Bailey & Weatherill of Regent St with what is described as
having "the slight drape modification" with a "narrower shoulder":

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This is perhaps being shown as an example of the moderate drape style that Whife describes in the previous
article.

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