‘MEN'S VESTS Regular Vest ‘The Vest, (waistcoat) is measured much the same as the sack coat, However, the back length (A-8) should be determined by adding Scm to the waist length, ‘The opening, (36-37) is taken from the back centre at nape of neck, (A) to desired opening below the breast line. ‘The front length is also taken from the back centre at nape of neck and down to desired length below waistline. The standard length on the vest with long, points should be measured 7.6cm below the waistline on the figure. ‘The waist measure should be at least 2.Sem larger than the trouser-waist. MEASUREMENTS: Height 1.76m Waist length 43.2em Back length 48.25em Opening 34.9em Front length 67.3em, Breast 96.5em Waist 86.35em, Drafting power is half Breast, 48.2Scm, The original draft in inches assumes use of tailor’s square with ‘divisions’, but this metric conversion assumes use of ordinary square. (On division’ indicates % of a whole measurement e.g: the instruction “4 waist on division plus lem” = half of the half-waist plus Jem, which is: 43/2 = 21.5 + 1 =22.Sem. BACKPAR’ A, is starting point, square out and down, 1 from A is 8.2cm. Equals the Shoulder height. 2 from Ais the Waist length. 3 from A is $0.1cm Equals Back- length plus 1.8cm for makeup, 4 from 1 is 4 Breast on division. Square forward off all points. S from 2 is 1.2cm. Draw line $ to 1 6 falls on the Breast line. 7 from $ is mm (1cm) 8 from 3 Is 1.8cm. Shape centre-back using points 8-7-6-1-A, as a guide. 9 from 6 is 2.Scm. 10 from 9 is ¥4 Breast on division (24.11¢m). Square down to bottom line. 11 falls on bottom line. 12 from 7 is ¥4 Waist on division plus tcm(22.5). Draw line 10 to 12, 12 to 11. 13 from 11 is 1.8cm. With aid of curve stick shape bottom run using points 8- 13 as a guide. 14 falls on intersection of line 1, and 11-10 line. 15 from 14 is 1.2cm. 16 from A is ¥4 Breast on division plus 2.Sem. 17 from 16 is 1.8cm, Draw line 17 to 15. Also shape back neck run, A to 17. 18 is centre between 9 and 10. Square up to top line. 19 falls on intersection of line 15 -17. 20 from 19 is 9mm (1em) 21 from 16 is 3.74em, 22 from 10 is 2.S4em, 23 from 18 is 2.S4cem, Draw line 22 to 23.The Back dart is 10.1cm long and 8.8cm from the side seam. Add 6mm seam at back-neck run, A to 17 and back shoulder run, 17 to 20 as shown. Shape Armscye from 20-21-22. The Back-part of the Vest is usually cut out of the same body lining as the coat. Add 2.Sem outlet to side seam as indicated by dash lines. FRONTPART: In preparing to draft the front of the Regular Vest, extend lines A-4-2-3. 24 from10 is ¥4 Breast on division 25 from 24 is 2.5em. Square down toward 27. 26 intersects the Waistline. 27 falls on Back length line. 28 from 26 is 4 Breast on up to top line. sion, Square 29 is 1.2Scm below top line. 30 from 14 is 2.Sem. Draw line 30 to 29. 31 from 29 is 8.2cm Equals 6mm less than back shoulder, 17 to 20. 32 from 10 is 1.8cm. Equals 6mm less than distance from 10 to 22. 33 From 10 is % breast on division plus 1.25. Square up to top line. Using points 32-33-31 as a guide shape the Arm-hole as indicated. OPENING: Draw a line from 29 to 24. 34 from 29 is ¥4 Breast on 35 from 29 is 1.8cm. Connect points 34 to 35, and continue line toward 36, 36 from 35 is ¥4 breast on division plus 25cm, Equals same distance as A to 17 on back-neck run. 37 from 36 is 37.3cm. Equals opening pins 2.5em for makeup. Shape run of opening as 'S VESTS FRONT LENGTH: 38 from 27 is Scm. Square down toward 39. 39 from 38 is 10cm. Equals Front length plus 2.Sem for makeup, measuring from 36 to 39. Shape Front edge, using points 27-37-39 as a guide 40 from 26 is 4 waist on division plus 4.3cm, Equals 1/4th waist (21.Scm) plus 4.3em for makeup. Shape Side seam using points 11-40-32 as a guide. Also shape the bottom run from 11 to 39 as indicated. 41 from 36 is 31cm. 42 from 35 is 3.7em. WELT POCKETS: 43 from 33 is 4.3cm. 44 from 28 is 6.2em. Draw line 43 to 44 and continue line toward 45. 45 from 43 is 10cm. Squaredown from Breast line toward 46. 46 from 4 is 14.4cm, Draw line toward 47 parallel to 45-43 line. 47 from 46 is 12.6cm. Welts are finished 1.8cm wide. Mark as. indicated. FRONT DART: Bis centre between 43 and 45. Cis centre between 46 and 47. Draw line B to C, and continue toward D. D falls on bottom run. Reduce 6mm on each side, and make dart 17.7em long. Re-mark as indicated.‘MEN'S VESTS VEST FACINGS Use outline of Front-part as a guide to draft the Vest facings The Snake and Front facing should be separated between top and second (or second and third) button(holes). Add a seam to Front and Snake as indicated by dash lines. Trace outline of bottom facing as illustrated. To draft the Welt facing, mark outline of welt pocket (A-B-C-D) with line AB on the fold of paper. Add a seam on sewing edges as shown by dash lines. Lower welt is 2.Sem longer than upper welt pocket. SPORTS VEST WITH PINCH PLEATS L To draft the Sports Vest, use the outline of Regular Front-part as a guide, Label points 26-40-39 respectively. Line 26-40 represents the Waistline. E from 26 is 4.3m, Draw line 40 to E, and separate pattern at this line as shown. LOWER FRONT: F from E is 1.Scm. Re-shape to F as shown by broken line. G from 39 is 1.Scm. Equals amount lost from E to F. H from 40 is 2.2cm. Equals front dart plus two seams, which is eliminated; joining lower front into one. Re-shape from H, and down to G as indicated. Also draw line F to G UPPER FRONT; Add lem to side seam at 40, Re-mark to armscye as indicated. Pinch pleats are finished 1.5cm wide, 7.6em long. Distance along line E-40 should be 31cm greater than line F-H on lower front and equals allowance for the two pleats. 1 Add a seam to upper and lower front, shaping upper front slightly round as shown.