Research Article: Effects of Different Mordants On Silk Fabric Dyed With Onion Outer Skin Extracts
Research Article: Effects of Different Mordants On Silk Fabric Dyed With Onion Outer Skin Extracts
Journal of Textiles
Volume 2014, Article ID 405626, 8 pages
http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2014/405626
Research Article
Effects of Different Mordants on Silk Fabric Dyed with
Onion Outer Skin Extracts
Copyright © 2014 Mohammad Gias Uddin. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution
License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly
cited.
At present, a higher demand is put towards the use of natural dyes due to increased awareness of the environmental and health
hazards associated with the synthesis and use of synthetic dyes. This research was conducted using onion outer skins as a potential
source of natural plant dyes. In this study, extraction of dye was carried out in aqueous boiling method. Premordanting technique
was followed using different mordants, namely alum, ferrous sulphate, tin, tannic acid, tartaric acid, and their combinations on silk
fabric. Fabric samples dyed without using any mordant were then compared with the dyed samples pretreated with the mordants.
The range of colors developed on dyed materials was evaluated by measuring the color values with respect to 𝐾/𝑆 values and color
coordinates. It was concluded that the color values were found to be influenced by the addition of mordants, and thus different
fashion hues were obtained from the same amount of dye extract using different mordants. Ferrous sulphate was found as the most
influential mordant. Δ𝐸cmc values between unmordanted (Reference dyed) and metallic mordanted fabric samples were found
higher than those between unmordanted and nonmetallic mordanted fabric samples. The dyed samples were evaluated for color
fastness to washing, light, drycleaning, rubbing, and perspiration. The color fastness properties were found to be satisfactory and
improved in many cases. From the fastness results, it was obvious that these dyes can also be applied on silk fabric without using
any mordant if required.
some cases the resulting change in shade can be seen as an 2.2.5. Dyeing. Dyeing was carried out in exhaust method
opportunity to steer color in a wider range. Different types with the dye extracts as per standard dyeing conditions
of mordants and their combination on the same natural dye recommended for silk fabric [18] at 80∘ C for 60 minutes
may darken, brighten, or drastically alter the color of the dye- under pH 5, keeping material to liquor ratio 1 : 50 in a IR
mordant solution and influence the shade of the final product sample dyeing machine. Opticid PSD (1.5 g/L) was used as a
[16] which may be a desired effect as well as an unwanted buffering agent in the extracted dye liquor.
phenomenon [17]. So, final color, its brilliance, and color
fastness properties are not only dependent on the dye itself 2.2.6. Color Yield of Dyed Fabrics. Dyed textile samples were
but are also determined by varying concentration and suitable analyzed by measuring the reflectance curve between 350 and
application of mordants. 750 nm by the reflectance spectrophotometer with illuminant
𝐷65 at 10∘ observer. The minimum of the curve (𝑅min ) was
used to determine the ratio of light absorption (𝐾) and scatter
2. Materials and Methods (𝑆) via the Kubelka-Munk function using [19]
2.1. Materials. The raw silk fabric (22 denier warp, 22 denier
weft, 132 ends/inch, 132 picks/inch, and 22 g/m2 fabric area 𝐾 (1 − 𝑅min )2
density) purchased from Sopura Silk Ltd., Dhaka, Bangla- ( ) = . (1)
𝑆 Dyed 2𝑅min
desh, was used in this study.
2.2.7. Color Coordinates of Dyed Fabrics. The color coordi-
2.2. Methods nates of the dyed samples were determined by a dual beam
reflectance spectrophotometer using color-matching soft-
2.2.1. Extraction Process. The onion skins were dried under ware (Datacolor International, USA) and the three parame-
direct sunlight and grinded into small units with the help ters 𝐿∗ , 𝑎∗ , and 𝑏∗ were determined in the CIELab system. In
of grinding machine. The wastages are removed using a fine addition, chroma (𝐶∗ ) and hue (ℎ) values were determined
strainer and finally weight was taken. After drying, crushing, from the spectrophotometer readings.
and straining, the weight of 1 kg skins was found to be 805 gm.
The dried and crushed skins were shown in Figure 2.
The color component was extracted from the skins in 2.2.8. Color Difference (Δ𝐸𝑐𝑚𝑐 ). Mordanted and unmor-
aqueous extraction process. It was done by extracting fixed danted dyed samples were measured in the mentioned
quantity of crushed skins under pH 5 with a material to liquor spectrophotometer and Δ𝐸cmc value was determined to show
ratio of 1 : 10 (weight of crushed skins in g; amount of water the color difference between them taking unmordanted dyed
in mL) at boil for 60 min. In each process of extraction, the sample as standard.
mixture was cooled down and finally the dye extracts were
filtered accurately. 2.2.9. Color Fastness. Washing fastness test was carried out
in ISO 105 C02 method, light fastness in ISO 105 B02 method,
2.2.2. Degumming. The raw silk fabric was degummed in an dry cleaning fastness in ISO 105 D01 method, rubbing fastness
aqueous soap solution (15 g/L soap) at pH 9. The material to in ISO 105 X12 method, and perspiration fastness in ISO 105
liquor ratio during the treatment was maintained at 1 : 50. E04 method.
The temperature was gradually raised to 80∘ C and run for
60 minutes. The degummed fabric was washed with 2 g/L 3. Results and Discussion
detergent at 65∘ C for 10 min.
3.1. Dyed Samples. The use of mordants produced different
2.2.3. Bleaching. Then, the fabric was treated with 35% hy- shades on silk dyed with onion extracts which were shown in
drogen peroxide (3 mL/L) solution, maintaining a material Table 1.
to liquor ratio of 1 : 50 at pH 9 and temperature 60∘ C for 60
minutes followed by wash with 2 g/L detergent at 65∘ C for 3.2. Color Measurements of Dyed Fabrics. The results of color
10 min. measurements of the dyed silks were shown in Table 2.
Journal of Textiles 3
No mordant (Reference
Mordant Ferrous sulphate Ferrous sulphate-alum Ferrous sulphate-alum-tin
dyed)
Shade
(1) Camel (2) Otter (3) Dusky dull green (4) Bone brown
Mordant Alum Alum + CT Alum + Tin Tin
Shade
(5) Amber gold (6) Oak buff (7) Honey yellow (8) Sandstorm
Mordant Tin + CT Tannic acid (TA) Alum-Tin-TA Tartaric acid
Shade
(9) Clay (10) Toast (11) Honey gold (12) Toasted nut
3.2.1. Color Yield of Dyed Fabrics. 𝐾/𝑆 value of the unmor- process was found to be ferrous sulphate-alum > ferrous
danted dyed sample was found to be 11.235. In the mor- sulphate-alum-tin > alum-tin > alum-tin-tannic acid.
danting method, mordant resulted in improved color yield The increase in 𝐾/𝑆 values due to mordanting reveals
of the dyed fabrics, except tin-CT and alum-CT. Ferrous that dye molecules are capable of forming metal complex
sulphate as a mordant significantly increased the color with the positively charged metals. In case of silk fibers,
yield of silk. The 𝐾/𝑆 value was found to be 15.284 using dye anions and metal cations have strong attraction towards
ferrous sulphate which showed the relative surface color positively charged amino and negatively charged carboxyl
strength value of 136.04% considering the unmordanted dyed groups, respectively. Hence, they enter the fiber and form
sample as standard. Besides, using ferrous sulphate-alum ionic bonding between dye and fiber and metal and fiber and
as a combination, the maximum color strength 146.94% finally with dye and metal ions. The dye-metal chellates thus
(𝐾/𝑆 = 16.509) and using ferrous sulphate-alum-tin as a produced also form coordinate bonds with the uncharged
combination the color strength 131.93% (𝐾/𝑆 = 14.822) was amine (–NH2 ) groups of silk. Again, one molecule of dye can
found. form a bond with one site of fiber molecule. But one molecule
Among ferrous sulphate, alum, tin, tannic acid, and of mordant can form bonds with two or more molecules of
tartaric acid mordants, when these were used individually dyes. As a result, when the mordant molecule binds on to
in a single mordanting process on silk, the order of color fiber it holds two molecules of dye with it. Therefore, using
yield was found to be ferrous sulphate > tartaric acid > tin mordant, the color yield was increased.
> tannic acid > alum, that is, color yield gradually decreased It is known that some transition metal ions can bond
when approached from ferrous sulphate to alum. Again, strongly with natural dye molecules due to their ability to
among the four different combinations of mordants, that form coordination complexes and thus produce deep color
is, ferrous sulphate-alum, ferrous sulphate-alum-tin, alum- on the fabric. Iron salts such as ferrous sulphate as transition
tin, and alum-tin-tannic acid, the order in the combination metal mordant form a large number of complexes with
4 Journal of Textiles
Table 2: Color yield, color coordinates, and color difference of the dyed fabrics.
Color coordinates
Mordant type 𝐾/𝑆 at 𝜆 max Color strength% Δ𝐸CMC
𝐿∗ 𝑎∗ 𝑏∗ 𝐶∗ ℎ0
No mordant (Reference dyed) 11.235 100 63.19 15.53 25.43 29.69 58.92 —
Fe 15.284 136.04 37.54 4.23 18.61 19.09 77.19 15.25
Fe + Alum 16.509 146.94 39.16 4.56 21.11 21.59 77.82 15.08
Fe + Alum + Tin 14.822 131.93 50.76 8.45 25.41 26.78 71.60 9.60
Alum 12.980 115.53 55.81 9.72 34.92 36.25 74.45 12.25
Alum + CT 9.3829 83.51 60.58 10.88 26.62 28.76 67.77 5.92
Alum + Tin 13.411 119.37 63.12 15.22 33.79 37.06 65.76 6.29
Tin 14.188 126.28 63.24 15.62 29.38 33.27 62.00 2.82
Tin + CT 9.0721 80.75 65.94 13.67 26.73 30.02 62.92 2.92
Tannic acid (TA) 13.795 122.79 65.93 14.22 27.04 30.56 62.26 2.56
Alum + Tin + TA 11.719 104.31 57.88 11.85 31.28 33.45 69.26 7.86
Tartaric Acid 14.484 128.93 60.60 18.45 28.23 33.72 56.84 2.71
OH OH
O O
O O
R CH NH2 R CH NH2
OH OH
OH Fe OH Pelargonidin
C O Fe Pelargonidin C O
OH
O OH
O
R CH NH2
O
O
C O
OH
Pelargonidin
O
the dye molecules, mostly octahedral ones with coordination followed by alum when single mordant was considered.
number 6. As a result, some coordination sites remain Darkness was increased 40.59% using ferrous sulphate mor-
unoccupied when they interact with the fiber and at that time dant in comparison to the reference dyed sample. This could
functional groups such as amino and carboxylic groups on be attributed to the affinity of mordant with color and fabric.
the silk fiber can occupy these unoccupied sites. Thus, ferrous Among the combined applications of mordants, in all
sulphate salts can form a ternary complex on one site with cases, it was observed that the highest darkness achieved
the fiber and in the other site with the dye. This resulted in by ferrous sulphate was reduced while alum was used with
higher dye uptake as well as shade change due to mordanting ferrous sulphate and further reduced while tin was used with
with ferrous sulphate. On the other hand, aluminium and tin the combination of ferrous sulphate and alum. In contrast,
salts formed weak coordination complexes with the dye. This tin-CT and tannic acid produced lighter shades but when
tends to form quite strong bonds with the dye molecule but tannic acid was used with alum and tin in combination, the
not with the fiber. Thus, they block the dye and reduce its color depth was found to be increased. Besides, cream of
interaction with the fiber. This is the reason behind the lower tartar (CT) with alum or tin brought changes in the lightness
𝐾/𝑆 values in case of aluminium and tin than those obtained scale of the dyed fabrics. The test results showed that CT
from ferrous sulphate salts [13, 20–23]. increased 𝐿∗ value when used along with alum or tin than
The possible structures of complexes with pelargonidin their individual use.
dye molecules and ferrous sulphate or alum in premordanting From the Δ𝑎∗ values of dyed samples as shown in
of silk were shown in Figures 3 and 4, respectively [9]. Figure 6, it was clear that the addition of ferrous sulphate
In contrast, as a mordant assistant cream of tartar (CT) mordant increased the greenness quality 72.76% of the ref-
decreased the color yield of dyed fabrics when used with alum erence samples. On the contrary, tartaric acid improved
or tin. 18.80% in redness value from the corresponding reference
sample.
3.2.2. Effect of Mordanting on Color Characteristics of Dyed The Δ𝑏∗ values of the samples as shown in Figure 7
Silk. The Δ𝐿∗ values of the dyed silk samples as shown in indicated that ferrous sulphate and ferrous-alum mordanted
Figure 5 indicated that ferrous sulphate mordant resulted in samples were bluer than the reference sample. In other
the highest increase in color depth (Δ𝐿∗ values were lower), cases, yellowness of dyed fabrics was increased. Significant
Journal of Textiles 5
OH OH
O O
O O
R CH NH2 R CH NH2
OH OH
OH Al OH Pelargonidin
C O Al Pelargonidin C O
OH
O OH
O
R CH NH2
O
O
C O
OH
Pelargonidin
O
Figure 4: Possible structures of pelargonidin with alum on silk.
9.49
10 10 8.36
5 0.05 2.75 2.74
5.85
0 −0.07 3.95
−5 −2.61 −2.59 5 2.8
−7.38 −5.31 1.19 1.3 1.61
ΔL∗
−10
−15 −12.43
Δb∗
0
−20 −0.02
−25 −25.65 −24.03
−30 −5 −4.32
Mordants −6.82
Fe Tin
Fe + Alum Tin + CT −10
Mordants
Fe + Alum + Tin Tannic acid (TA)
Alum Alum + Tin + TA Fe Tin
Alum + CT Tartaric acid Fe + Alum Tin + CT
Alum + Tin Fe + Alum + Tin Tannic acid (TA)
Alum Alum + Tin + TA
Figure 5: Δ𝐿∗ values of dyed silk. Alum + CT Tartaric acid
Alum + Tin
−4 −3.68
−4.65 were found in case of ferrous sulphate mordanted samples.
−6 −5.81
−8 −7.08 Higher color difference was noticeable between reference and
−10 ferrous sulphate mordanted samples and the color difference
−12 −11.3 −10.97
Mordants reduced from ferrous sulphate to alum and then alum to tin
in case of metallic mordants as shown in Table 2. Again, the
Fe Tin Δ𝐸CMC value between reference and nonmetallic mordanted
Fe + Alum Tin + CT
fabric sample was found lower than that between reference
Fe + Alum + Tin Tannic acid (TA)
Alum Alum + Tin + TA
and metallic mordanted fabric sample.
Alum + CT Tartaric acid
Alum + Tin
3.3. Fastness Results
∗
Figure 6: Δ𝑎 values of dyed silk.
3.3.1. Washing Fastness. The results of washing, light, and
rubbing fastness of the dyed fabrics were shown in Table 3.
The unmordanted dyed silk showed rating 4. Using mor-
yellowness was increased in case of alum, alum-tin, and alum- dants and combinations, the color change ratings were found
tin-tannic acid combinations which were 37.32%, 32.87%, and within 3/4 to 5, where rating 5 (Excellent) was found using tin,
23%, respectively, over the reference dyed sample. tin-CT, tannic acid, and tartaric acid mordants. The ratings
The color saturation values (𝐶∗ ) were found least in were found 4 in case of using alum, alum-CT, and alum-tin-
ferrous sulphate mordanted samples (19.09) whereas the tannic acid. So it can be said that overall ratings of color
values were found maximum in case of alum-tin (37.065) and change were good. As wash fastness of dye is influenced
alum (36.25) mordanted samples. In addition, the hue angles by the rate of diffusion of dye molecules and state of dyes
lie within 56.84∘ to 77.82∘ , so all of the dyed samples were inside the fiber, it can be explained that they have a tendency
closer to yellowish shade than the reddish. to aggregate inside the fiber. Thus, their molecular size is
6 Journal of Textiles
increased which exhibits good wash fastness. In addition, in chromophoric group dissipated their energy by resonating
case of mordanted samples, complexing with mordant has the within the six member ring formed, thus protecting the dye.
effect of insolubilizing the dye, making it color fast.
Moreover, this can be explained that the good fastness to 3.3.3. Dry Cleaning Fastness. The dry cleaning fastness rat-
washing for the sample dyed without mordant was due to the ings as shown in Table 3 for both color change and color
affinity of coloring component through H-bonding and van staining to the perchloroethylene solution were found within
der Waals forces. 4 to 5. Only in case of color change rating of alum and
On the other hand, the color staining ratings were found ferrous sulphate-alum, the rating was 4 and in all other cases
from 4 to 5 for all the dyed fabrics, except when ferrous it was within 4/5 to 5. In most cases, it can be stated that
sulphate and its combinations were used as mordants. There the pelargonidin dyes were almost completely resistant to
were very slight staining observed on the adjacent wool fiber perchloroethylene solution.
of the multifiber fabrics in case of ferrous sulphate and its
combination as well as alum-tin samples where ratings were
found 4 and almost no staining on the other fibers of the 3.3.4. Rubbing Fastness. From the comparison carried out
multifiber fabric. between the staining ratings of dry and wet rubbing fastness
as shown in Figure 8, it was noticed that dry rubbing fastness
3.3.2. Light Fastness. As shown in Table 3, the unmordanted was found slightly better than wet rubbing fastness.
dyed fabric showed rating 4 and this was improved to 6 using All the staining ratings of dry rubbing fastness were
ferrous sulphate mordant. The rating was further improved ranged within 4 to 5. Besides the overall better dry rubbing
to 7 using ferrous sulphate-alum-tin combination. In other fastness, the wet rubbing fastness of the ferrous sulphate-
cases, in comparison to unmordanted sample, rating was alum-tin and alum-tin-tannic acid combinations was 3 and
either unchanged or decreased by 1 grade. in other cases it was ranged within 3/4 and 5.
As ferrous sulphate has more affinity towards dye and
fiber compared to tin or alum, it can be said that ferrous 3.3.5. Perspiration Fastness. The results of color fastness to
sulphate can bind with more dye molecules than tin or perspiration test are shown in Table 4. In most of the cases,
alum. The fabrics mordanted with ferrous sulphate, alum, or the color change ratings found for acid perspiration were
tin may have the same number of dye molecules destroyed higher than the corresponding ratings for alkaline perspira-
during exposure to light. But as the fabrics mordanted with tion. But the reverse trend was found in case of alum-CT and
ferrous sulphate had deeper shades due to bonding with more tin-CT mordanted samples. Equal ratings for color change
number of dye molecules, it seemed to fade less compared to of both acid and alkaline perspiration tests were achieved in
the fabric mordanted with tin or alum. case of ferrous sulphate-alum-tin, alum-tin-tannic acid, and
It has been clearly shown that ferrous sulphate mordanted tartaric acid mordanted samples.
samples dyed with the extracts showed excellent light fast- Among the staining results, significant to moderate stain-
ness. This happened due to the formation of a complex with ing (rating 2/3) was noticeable only in three cases on wool
transition metal which protected the chromophore from pho- fiber of the multifiber fabrics under acidic perspiration (i.e.,
tolytic degradation. The photons which were sorbed by the ferrous sulphate, ferrous sulphate-alum-tin, and alum-tin
Journal of Textiles 7
4.5
4.5
4.5
4.5
5
4.5
4.5
5
4.5
4.5
5
5
5
3.5
3.5
4
3.5
4 fabric from the same dye extract of onion skins using metallic
3
3
Ratings
Fe
Fe + Alum
Fe + Alum + Tin
Alum
Alum + CT
Alum + Tin
Tin
Tin + CT
Alum + Tin + TA
Tartaric acid
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