P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt.
(2011-12) Page 1 of 11
BHARATHIAR UNIVERSITY, COIMBATORE 641 046.
PG DIPLOMA IN APPAREL MERCHANDISING & MANAGEMENT
SCHEME OF EXAMINATIONS
Semester I
Instruction Exam
Title of the Paper
Hours / Week
[Link] Total
Textile Fibre & Yarn 4 3 75
Fabric Production and Processing 4 3 75
Garment Manufacturing 4 3 75
Personnel Management & Industrial Relations 4 3 75
Fabric Production and Testing- Practical 9 4 100
Total 400
Semester II
Instruction Exam
Title of the Paper
Hours / Week
[Link] Total
Garment Quality Assurance 3 3 75
Apparel Merchandising 4 3 75
Costing,
Costing, Documentation
Documentation &
& Shipping
Shipping Procedures
Procedures 3 3 75
Internship & Case Study-Viva Voce 6 3 75
Garment Making -Lab 9 4 100
Total 400
P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt. (2011-12) Page 2 of 11
Textile Fibre & Yarn
UNIT I
Textile fibres: Classification General properties Identification of textile fibres Influence of
fibre properties on yarn quality - Polymer - Polymerization types - Types of polymer
Requirements for fibre forming polymers Filament spinning.
UNIT II
Cotton: Botanical and commercial classification - Brief study on Indian hybrid and imported
commercial cotton varieties Fibre morphology Polymer system Chemical composition -
Properties - End uses.
Flax: - Fibre morphology Polymer system Chemical composition - properties - End uses -
Properties common to all Cellulosic fibres.
Wool: Producing countries - Grading - Fibre morphology polymer system chemical
Composition - properties - End uses - Felting - Woolen and Worsted Yarns - End uses - Brief
study on Specialty hair fibers and uses.
Silk: Fibre morphology polymer system chemical composition - properties - End uses.
Types and major growing places - Production of Raw silk - Degumming - Weighting - Properties
-
UNIT III
Semi synthetic fibres: Rayon - Regenerated and modified cellulose -Viscose rayon process flow -
HWM fibres - Comparison of properties between viscose and HWM rayons End uses
Acetate fibre - Process flow - Properties - End uses
UNIT IV
Synthetic fibres: Common steps for the production Brief study about polyamide, polyester,
polyacrylic, and spandex - Individual fibre properties and trade names End uses. Brief study on
aramid, carbon, metallic. and micro fibres with uses.
Methods of filament spinning - Drawing and effects - Textured filament, Types of textured
yarns - Methods of texturisation. End uses of textured yarns.
UNIT V
Yarn: Classification of yarn types- Staple spinning system - Types Cotton Yarn Production
sequence and objectives - Comparison of carded and combed yarn - Winding and its objects
Waxing and its significance - Yarn numbering systems - Significance of yarn twist
Blended textiles: Types of blending - Reasons for blending - Double yarn - Properties -
Sewing threads: Types, features, uses - Properties required for export quality hosiery yarns,
Various Yarn & Package defects.
References:
1. Shenai. V.A. Textile fibers technology of textile processing, Vol 1.
2. Wynne, A, The motivate.
3. Mishra, S.P. A text book of fibre science and technology.
4. Gordon Cook, J, Hand book of textile fibres 1 & II.
5. Carr, C.M, Chemistry of the textiles industry.
6. Phyllis [Link], Understanding textiles.
P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt. (2011-12) Page 3 of 11
7. Marjory [Link], Essentials of textiles.
8. Joseph [Link], Fabric science.
9 Goswami.J.C., Martindale.J.G, Scardino.K.L., Textile yarns, Technology, Structure &
Applications
10. Moncrieff,W, Man-made fibres.
11. Identification of textile materials, The textile institute, Manchester.
12. Eric Oxtoby, Spun yarn technology
13. Sadov.F, Korchagin.M, Matesky.A, Chemical technology of fibrous material.
Fabric Production and Processing
UNIT I:
Basic Knitting Technology: Principles and comparison of weaving and Knitting, Introduction to
weft and warp knitting Classification of weft knitting machines - Terms and definitions of weft
knitting
- Study of basic weft knit structures and their characteristics - Knitting cycle of single jersey, rib
and interlock structures
UNIT II:
Modern Knitting Machines: Salient features of modern knitting machines - Ornamentation of
basic weft knit structures - Different types of cams & needles - Formation of derived stitches -
Characteristics of tuck & miss - Adjustments & setting of GSM - Modern double jersey
machines and structures - Identification of various single and double jersey structures.
UNIT III:
Jacquard and Speciality Knitting: Needle selection techniques - Auto stripes - Terry and Fleece
Insertion of elastomeric yarn in knitting - Identification of various jacquard & speciality
structures.
Knitting Calculations: Count-gauge relationship - Production & GSM calculations Influence of
stitch length and tightness factor on fabric characteristics. Fabric faults, causes and remedies.
UNIT IV:
Introduction to wet processing Brief study of preparatory processes of dyeing and objectives
Meaning of dyes and pigments Various classification methods of dyes Principle & method of
dyeing of cotton knitted fabric Principle and working of jigger, beam dyeing, winch, soft flow
and air flow machines Concept of tie and dye Brief study on garment dyeing.
UNIT V
Introduction to printing Comparison of dyeing and printing Methods of printing Study of
table screen printing and rotary screen printing methods. Styles of printing Study of non
conventional printing styles employed in garment printing Principle and working of garment
printing machine Printing ingredients and model recipe formulation. Need and objects of
finishing Classification Brief study of various mechanical and chemical finishes.
P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt. (2011-12) Page 4 of 11
References:
1. [Link], Knitting Technology, Universal Publishing Corporation, Mumbai (1998).
2. David.J Spencer, Knitting Technology, Wood Head Publishing Ltd. Second
Edition,England (1989).
3. Samuel Raz, Flat Knitting, Meisenbach Bamberg (1993).
4. [Link], Textile Mathematics, The Textile Institute Manchester I Edition(1997).
5. Peter Schwartz, Trevor Rhodes and Mansour Mohamed, Fabric Forming
Systems,Mahajan Publishers, Ahmedabad (1996).
6. Chandrasekara Iyer, Bernd Mammel and Wolfgang Schach, Circular
Knitting,Meisenbach Bamberg (1992).
7. Wynne, A, The Motivate Series Textiles, Macmillan EducationLtd., London (1997).
8. 8. Bernard P. Corbman, Textiles, Fibre to Fabric
9. Shenai.V.A., Technology Of Bleaching & Mercerising, Sevak Publications,
Wadala,Mumbai-31.
10. 10. [Link], Textile Scouring & Bleaching, B.I. Publications Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi
(1968).
11. 11. [Link], Textile Coloration and Finishing, Carolina Academic Press,
Durham, North Carolina (1996).
Garment Manufacturing
Unit - I
Introduction to Garment Industry Detailed Study of Process Sequence- Garment Analysis and
Classification Measurements and Size Charts for Men, Women, Children-Requirement and
Breakdown of Garment Flow Process Torso and Bifurcated Garments.
Fabric Selection Techniques for Garments - Case Study on Garment Classification, Flow Process
and Fabric Selection.
Unit II
Introduction to pattern making Concepts of pattern making Pattern production terms
Pattern Making Tools Standard body measurement details Style variation in Garment
components - Neck Lines. Concept of Pattern layout Rules in Pattern layout Common
method of Layout Concept of Grading Methods of Grading Manual Pattern Grading.
Introduction to Computer Aided Pattern Making and Grading Case Study on Standard Body
Measurements of Different Countries for Men, Women and Children Clothing Defects in
Pattern, Causes and Remedies.
Unit III
Lay and Marker Planning Study of Methods of Marker Planning Study of Spreading Methods
Concepts of Marker Planning Marker Planning, Drawing and Reproduction of Marker
Marker Efficiency Spreading and Methods Various Cutting Methods and Limitations
Bundling Defects in Cutting, Causes and Remedies
P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt. (2011-12) Page 5 of 11
Unit IV
Classification of Industrial Sewing Machines Applications Description and Working of
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine, Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine, Over Lock Machines,
Flat Lock Machine Brief Study on Specialty Sewing Machines.
Types and Parts of Sewing Machine Needles Needle Sizes.
Sewing Machine Feed Mechanisms: Drop Feed Differential Feed Variable Top Feed
Combined with Drop Feed - Variable Top Feed Combined with Differential Feed Compound
Feed UnisonFeed.
Machine Bed Types: Flat Bed - Cylinder Bed - Post Bed Feed Off The Arm
Applications.
Brief Study on Work Aids, Special Purpose Machines and Needles Defects in Sewing, Causes
and Remedies.
Unit - V
Study on Various Garment Finishing Machines for Fusing, Sucking, Ironing and Packing.
Role of Accessories - Buttons, Zipper, Labels, Lining. Interlining Labels Wadding, Lace, Braid
& Elastic - Quality Parameters in Accessories.
References:
1. Technology of clothing manufacture - Carr & latham
2. Apparel manufacturers handbook - Jacob solinger
3. Guide to sewing machine and Catalogues of accessories.
Personnel Management & Industrial Relations
UNIT I:
Introduction: Definition Functions Objectives Role of personnel management in industry.
Principles of good personnel policy. Organizing the personnel function. Leadership
Motivation Job satisfaction and Morale communication Control process.
UNIT II:
Human resource management: Objectives and planning of manpower - Job analysis, job
description, and job specification. Recruitment and selection. Training and development.
Performance appraisal.
Career planning and job change.
UNIT III
Job evaluation, Employee compensation Wages and salary Incentives, DA, Bonus and wage
differentials. Wage acts and policies.
P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt. (2011-12) Page 6 of 11
UNIT IV
Labour welfare Safety Engineering Accidents Good housekeeping Welfare acts: Welfare
funds Voluntary Benefits Insurance Provident Fund Gratuity Maternity benefits - ILO.
UNIT V
Industrial Relations: Meaning approaches Significance. Trade Unions Collective
bargaining. Grievance and employee discipline. Workers Participation in management. Union
management Relations.
Industrial Disputes: Forms of disputes Methods of prevention and settlements of Industrial
disputes Authorities for settlement.
References:
1. Personnel Management & Industrial Relations, P.C. Tripathi.
2. Industrial Engineering and management. O.P. Khanna
3. Venkataraman C.S & Srivastava B.K, Personnel Management and Human Resources,
Tata
McGraw Hill, 1991.
4. Arun Monappa, Industrial Relations, Tata McGraw Hill, 1987.
5. Dale Yodder &. Paul D Standohar, Personnel Management and Industrial Relations,
Sterling Publishers, 1990.
6. Mamoria, C.B, Personnel Management.
7. Dessler, Personnel Management.
8. Rudra Basavaraj, M.N., Dynamics of Personnel Administration.
P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt. (2011-12) Page 7 of 11
Fabric Production and Testing- Practical
A. Testing and Quality
1. Determination of Count of Yarn Using Wrap Reel & Electronic Balance.
2. Fabric Analysis for Determining GSM, CPI, WPI, SL, CL & Yarn Count of Given Sample
3. Determination of Colour Fastness of Given Sample to Washing by Using Launderometer
and Rating with Help of Grey Scales.
4. Determination of Color Fastness of Given Sample to Rubbing by Using Crockmeter and
Rating with Help of Grey Scales.
5. Determination of Bursting Strength of Given Sample by Using Bursting Strength tester.
6. Determination of Dimensional Stability% (Shrinkage / Growth) of a Given Fabric/Garment
to Washing by Using Washing Machine as Per ISO Procedures.
B. Knitting
Identify and Analyse the Given Swatch for the Following Particulars:
A)Courses and Wales Per Cm B) Loop Length C) Technical Graph D) Cam Order E)
Needle Order
Samples:
1. Pique 2. Thick Pique 3. Lacoste (Honey Comb)
4. Pearl 5. Cross Miss [Link] 7. 2/3 Thread Fleece 8. Jacquard Design
(Any one of the above designs shall be given)
C. Dyeing
1. Scouring of grey cotton knitted fabrics and estimate the scouring loss percentage.
2. Bleaching the given cotton knitted fabrics using hydrogen peroxide.
3. Dye the given cotton sample with cold brand reactive dyes.
4. Dye the given cotton sample with hot brand reactive dyes.
5. Dye the given cotton sample with reactive H-E dyes.
6. Dye the given polyester sample using carriers.
7. Develop a batik motif and print on the given sample.
8. Prepare the print paste with pigment colour and print on the given fabric.
P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt. (2011-12) Page 8 of 11
Garment Quality Assurance
Unit I
Quality - Definitions - Quality and grade a Comparison - Quality terminologies Factors
influencing quality - Benefits of quality - Sources of International Standards -Benefits.
Unit II
Testing of Yarn: Principle of yarn count Determination standard procedure.
Study about Uster evenness tester Study about classimate faults and its effect.
Influence of yarn hairiness on fabric quality.
Testing of Fabric: Knitted Fabric Specifications - CPI, WPI, LL, CL, TF & GSM
Calculations.
Fabric Bursting Strength Testing testing of Abrasion and Pilling Resistance - Air Permeability
Testing - Crease Recovery testing - Fabric Handle testing of fabric drape. Testing of
Dimensional Stability of Knitted Fabric and its Importance
Unit III
Color Fastness: Introduction to Color Fastness - Importance - Agencies of Color Fastness:
Washing, Rubbing, Perspiration, Light - Grey Scales and Ratings - Standard Testing Procedures
- Reasons For Poor Color Fastness. Brief study about computer colour matching.
Testing of Garments: Tests related to garment appearance and performance such as
measurement of seam pucker, seams slippage and seam strength. Testing of Garment
Accessories: Testing of Zippers, Buttons, and Sewing Threads.
Unit IV
Inspection of Incoming Materials
Introduction - Types of inspection - Raw material inspection - Benefits -Fabric inspection - 4
point system - 10 point system - Graniteville "78" system - Need for the inspection of sewing
threads and apparel accessories - Testing of sewing threads, zippers, fusible interlinings, buttons
and fasteners
Unit V
In-Process Inspection: In process inspection - Advantages - on line inspection during spreading,
pattern making, cutting, sewing, fusing, printing, embroidery. Pressing / finishing
Final Inspection : Introduction to Sampling, Sampling Plans and AQL Charts - Final Inspection
- Level of Final Inspection - MIL 105 Standards - Packing & Packaging Quality Tests - Case
study on final inspection.
References
1. Principles Of Textile Testing J.E. Booth
2. Hand Book Of Textile Testing & Quality Control Elliot B. Grover & D.S. Hamby
3. Textile Testing P. Angappan & R. Gopalakrishnan
4. Managing Quality In Apparel Industries Pradeep V Metha & Satis K. Bhardwaj.
P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt. (2011-12) Page 9 of 11
Apparel Merchandising
UNIT I
Merchandising: Introduction, Meaning- Apparel Merchandising Concepts of Six Rights
Organisation structure of an apparel industry Classification of Exporters - Rating or Grading of
export houses Classification of buyers Export merchandising and retail merchandising
Company profile and its contents
UNIT II
Process flow in apparel industry Buyer sourcing & communication Enquiry Order
confirmation order review and its importance Planning & programming: Master planning,
Scheduling or route card Factors for route card - programming for yarn, knitting, dyeing,
stitching, sampling, accessories Samples: Meaning & importance Types of samples
expedition of samples
UNIT III
Inspection and its types Approvals - Types of approvals Shipping marks Effective
expedition procedures Order sheet and its contents Packing list and its contents Document
formats: order sheet, packing list, invoice, inspection and testing reports etc., - Assortment and
its types
UNIT IV
Types of merchandiser - Functions of a merchandiser Essential requisites of a good
merchandiser Vendor sourcing, evaluation and development Global sourcing Vendor
nomination by buyers Reasons for vendor nomination Documents recording and maintenance
Claims and reasons for claims - Factory audits Buyers code of conducts
UNIT V
Export associations Apparel Export Promotion Council Journals and magazines related to
apparel and textiles Trade shows and Fairs Participation in trade shows Advantages of trade
shows and fairs - Apparel & Textile Trade shows and fairs in India .
REFERENCES:
1. Daragho' Reilly, Jullian J. Gibbs, Building Buyer Relationships.
2 Mc Millan Publishing Co., Inside the Fashion Business..
3. Strong Elian, Fashion Merchandising.
4. Apparel merchanidising
5. Apparel Views, Jan09, Apparel Merchandising The concept of six rights
P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt. (2011-12) Page 10 of 11
Costing, Documentation & Shipping Procedures
UNIT I
Cost - Types of Cost: Fixed Cost, Variable Cost, Semi Variable Cost, Conversion Cost,
Differential Cost - Elements of Cost - Direct Material Cost - Direct Expenses - Direct Wages -
Indirect Materials -indirect Expenses - Indirect Labour - Overheads - Production Overhead -
Administrative Overhead Selling Overhead Distribution Overhead - Components of Cost Sheet.
Cost Estimation of Yarn, Knitted Fabric, Dyeing, Printing & Finishing, Cutting, Stitching,
Checking, Packing, Forwarding, Shipping, and Insurance Etc for a given order.
UNIT II
Estimation of Requirement Various Raw materials like yarn,buttons, Sewing thread, Twill tape
etc.,
Case Study on Estimation of Factory Cost for Vest, Briefs, Shorts, T-Shirts, Pyjamas, Children's
Wear,Ladies Wear Etc.
Various Factors to be considered in Costing for Domestic Products & International Products
UNIT III
Introduction to International Trade - Global Scene, - Prospects for Indian Apparel in Overseas
Market, Globalisation, GATT and WTO. RCMC and Export Promotion councils Procedure to
start an export firm - Sales contract and its check list.
UNIT IV
Export Procedure -Pre-Shipment and Post Shipment Credit - Exchange Rate Arithmetic INCO
Terms - Payment Terms - Logistic Management. Need for Documents Invoice - Certificate of
Origin - L/C, Shipping Bill - Bills of Exchange- Bill of Lading - GR Form - Packing List - Duty
Draw Back Export License - Marine Insurance Policy.
UNIT V
Export Procedure and Recent Policies of the Government
Customs - Meaning, Definition, Types, Exercise and Customs, Clearance of Export Cargo
Shipment of Goods and Port Procedures - Claiming Duty Draw Backs and Other Benefits.
References:
1. Jeremy Rosenau, Apparel Merchandising.
2. Anitha A. Stamper, Evaluation of Apparel Quality.
3. Anitha A. Stamper, Experimental Apparel Construction.
4. B.M. Lal Nigam, Cost Accounting Principles and Practice
P.G. Dip. in Apparel Merch. & Magt. (2011-12) Page 11 of 11
Internship & Case Study-Viva Voce
Students will be asked to go for 15 days internship training during winter vacation and week
ends of the second semester.
Students will be given a case study during the internship and they have to submit a report thereon
at the end of the semester, on dates announced by the institute/department. The guidelines for
training will be provided by the institute/department.
A Team consisting of Internal & External Experts will evaluate the Record and conduct the
Viva-Voce at the end of the Final semester.
Garment Making -Lab
A. Pattern Making
List of Experiments
1. Basic Round Neck T- Shirt
2. Basic Polo.
3. Mens Hooded T Shirt.
4. Mens Raglon Shirt.
5. Mens Inner Garment Brief.
6. Kids Wear A Line Frock..
7. Baba Suit.
8. Romper.
B. Machine Parts and Threading:
1. Draw the Threading Diagram of SNLS Machine and the Various Parts of Machine.
2. Draw the Threading Diagram of over lock Machine and the Various Parts of Machine.
3. Draw the Threading Diagram of Flat lock Machine and the Various Parts of Machine.
C. Pedaling Exercise on Paper and Fabrics:
1. Straight and Curves
2. Squares, Rectangles
3. Triangles and Unlimited Shapes
D. Making of Various Seams and Components:
1. Various Seams Types - Superimpose, Bound, Lap, Piping Etc..
2. Samples of Components Such as
A. Round Neck B. Scallop Neck
C. Gents Placket D. Ladies Placket
E. Cross Pocket F. Band Collar
