The Journey.

JAPAN

Jo Samuel

I Arrived.....

After 1 year of consideration and 6 months of planning for a 2

month experience, stopping at 9 locations, staying in 11 hotels
and organising 11 flights I meet Tokyo at night
exhausted.
Its a whirlwind.
Moving from the North into the southern regions and the
Ryukyus, the journey begins with a quick stop in Tokyo. The
capital and epicentre of Japan is a bustling, vibrant city without
the edge that usually accompanies city life and is everything I
would expect and more.. lights, crowds and a train
system that resembles spaghetti junction. Its an exciting city
with everything that city life has to offer - shops, museums,
restaurants catering for all tastes and a vibrant night life.
It feels safe here. As I travel from area to area and talk to fellow
travellers, I hear stories and anecdotes about the quirks and
nuances associated with Japan and Japanese culture. Recalling a
conversation about salary men (the term used to describe male
office workers in Japan) who, having missed the last train home,
lay down in subways to sleep, I was surprised to hear one
traveller recounting his observation of these men placing
wallet and phone on the pavement in front of them with no
qualms about leaving their personal belongings in full view
whilst they napped.

For the people who work in the market and the bidders that visit
everyday to purchase tuna for their restaurants and shops - this
is their life, whats the big deal, its just fish?.....But for us
visitors the fish market, for some reason exemplifies something
more. Perhaps its the size of the fish or just the opportunity to
eavesdrop on everyday life in a Tokyo market. (Pgs 4-5)
Moving on, I stop at the beautiful snowy white peaks of Hakuba
where I learn that deep powder is a descriptive term for a type
of snow. (What is the opposite of an abbreviation?). Hakuba has
a small town feel. Pristine white snow and mountain views laced
with evergreen trees make for an unforgettable landscape. It feels
like a winter wonderland and draws avid skiers and snow boarders
to the area from around the world. (Pg 8)
Moving from location to location is easy and a quick stop in
Osaka for the night staying in a capsule type hotel (Pgs 10-11)
before moving on to Koyasan, the spiritual epicentre of Shingon
Esoteric Buddhism in Japan and Im beginning to feel and
understand the differences in subcultures from prefecture to
prefecture.

I was eager to observe the workings of Tokyos famous Tsukiji

fish market, renowned for its large tuna and early morning
auction viewing slots for tourists. A ridiculously early rise saw
me queuing with other eager travellers waiting to view the
auction.

As I sat in the waiting room and observed the

rather bemused looking staff who usher guests
in out of the market every day, I wondered
what this process must look like for the
Japanese people who work in this
environment. I guess it would be akin to
tourists in London, rising at the crack of dawn
to observe a meat auction in action.

Forest trail in Koyasan

The gorgeous mountainous region of Koyasan is a world in
itself. A feeling of peace and serenity is encapsulated in the feel
of the town and the friendly community reflected in the deep
spiritual roots of the area and enough temples and shrines to keep
a pilgrim or curious tourist happy makes this place an
interesting and lovely town to visit. I set aside some time to speak

to one of the monks who reside in the temple lodgings (Shukubo)

I stayed in about his journey into Buddhism and the history of the
local area. (Pgs 13-16)
I left Koyasan taking a sense of peace with me. I didnt visit the
area as a pilgrim - though I suppose one could argue that we are
all pilgrims through lifes journey in one way or another. I arrived
possessing only a vague understanding of the principles behind
Buddhist philosophy and came seeking nothing in particular. Its
been my experience that the more one seeks, the less one finds
and at times the less one expects, the more value in the journey.
All I can say is that I came away refreshed.

At this point in my journey, Im ready to soak in an onsen. The

Onsen is an important cultural activity in Japan and bathing
almost feels ritualistic. From a Western perspective, observing
onsen rules and etiquette makes the experience for first time
dippers an interesting one.
As I drift into the mysterious sulphuric fog hovering over the
onsen town of Beppu, I begin to understand more and more about
what makes this culture so special. Beppu is one of those places

Kobes a great base to explore neighbouring cities like Osaka and

Kyoto, both within an hours travel by train, though I only
managed to visit Osaka this time round for the annual Sumo
Wrestling Tournament which was an interesting experience.
(Pg 25-26)
I visit a Sake museum and brewery in Kobe, taking a quick tour
around the museum before making a hasty beeline towards the
taster stand! Kobe is one of many cities in Japan renowned for its
production of Japans national alcoholic beverage. Sake
production has an interesting history and is very much embedded
in the traditions, culture and even religious aspects of the
country. (Pgs 22-23)

There is a feeling of bygone days here as different generations

bathe together. Children accompanied by their parents and
elderly people too frail and weak to stand straight being
supported and lowered by younger relatives into baths
really embodies something important about the spirit of
Japan. A sense of community and family is evident at these
baths. At the same time a feeling of openness exists which
also enables strangers to feel welcome and comfortable.
As I continued my travels around Japan I learnt that for some,
the onsen is part of a daily routine. (One gentleman I met in his
late 60s had visited a particular onsen every day from the age of
three). For others a special visit on the odd occasion is enough.
Funnily enough, Beppu awakens me to something and I start to
understand a little bit more about Japan. It feels like this culture
is geared towards comfort and ease. Strolling around the grounds
of various hotels, visiting restaurants or even walking around the
town wearing Yukata and slippers is like going from home to
home everywhere I travel. It really is akin to sitting in a restaurant
or walking around town wearing dressing gown and slippers and
observing everyone else doing the same.
A visit to The Hells was an interesting journey into one of the
areas steamy attractions and one of those tourist type day trips
that are an absolute must for anyone visiting this town. (Pg 28)

Travelling from country back to city life, I board a train.

Staring out the window and watching the forests vibrant greens
gradually transform to grey concrete blocks as the journey
progressed was not an easy transition, however city life called
again and Kobe - an interesting harbour city- did have some
hidden gems in the form of nature trails and waterfalls tucked
away in a small secluded haven behind skyscrapers and city life.

Its been my experience that

the more one seeks, the less
one finds and at times, the
less one expects - the more
value in the journey.

There is something that cant quite be defined about the onsen

experience. Bathing with strangers may seem like an odd way to
enjoy a bath, but the onsen represents something more to me.

Saigakukan Outdoor Onsen (Yufuin)

in Japan that has to be seen to be believed. Volcanic steam rises
from the top of metal pipes, covering the sky and drifting up
towards the mountains before disappearing into the clouds. It
really is a sight that quintessentially defines this interesting town.
Sitting on a coast, Beppu is surrounded by sea and mountains.
A day spent meandering around the circumference of a lake or a
ride up a cable car to the top of a mount really does give one the
impression that Beppu is natures way of blessing us.
Onsen after onsen beckons, tempting visitors from other
prefectures in Japan and all around the world to soak in sulphuric
waters renowned for numerous health benefits. The choices are
plentiful From a trip to a local onsen where visitors pay 100
Yen for a locker, to a plush hotel onsen with similar amenities as
a day spa.

Flying Fish and Sashimi

The local dishes were also a real treat. From Italian/Japanese
fusions to Do it Yourself Jigoku Mushi steam dishes and
bungo (mountain) food. (Pgs 18-20) The variations of visually
appealing, delicious and healthy dishes was enough to please any
palette.
As I continue my journey moving further south, the weather
noticeably changes and Im greeted with beautiful sub-tropical
foliage and forest in Yakushima. Its a small island renowned for
its conservation and research of sea turtles and Shiratani
Unsuikyo, a stunning conservation area located 800 metres above
sea level. The forest is covered with moss and is said to have been
the inspiration behind the location featured in the film Princess
Mononoke. Its evident why.

I almost expected fairies or elves to pop up between the moss

u Monk covered rocks as I walked the trail. (Pg 33)

k
Ya

ey
s

I spent days driving down

winding roads and through hair
raising narrow lanes with dense
forestry surrounding me on
both sides enjoying the scenery.
Yaku monkeys and deer
ambled their way along the
roads and I stop the car as I
travel around the island to
observe and digitally capture these
creatures in their natural habitat.

Travelling even further South to Naha, Im greeted with the most

interesting fusion of cultures. For some reason Naha excites me.
The atmosphere is so different from the northern regions that it
almost feels like Im on a Caribbean island.
The weather here is divine in early April and wandering
Kokusai- Dori (International Street) at night, soaking in the sights
and smells and observing the oddities and curiosities in
Okinawas Capital City was different to anything I had previously
encountered during my travels. The markets selling different
varieties of fish in all colours, shapes and sizes were fascinating
and there is a real buzz in this part of town. (Pg 36)
Moving on, I enter jungle territory.
Irimote Jima is a small island
located in the Ryukyus. Its a
beautiful area and the most stunning
sunsets can be viewed here. I relax,
enjoying the tropical environment
and leaving the world behind.

houses a number of temples and shrines, in fact it is number 3 in

Japan for the sheer amount of temples and shrines in one area.
This city highlights the integration of tradition and modernity that
can be felt and observed in all areas in this country and the

respected. The tradition of bowing, or nodding heads to greet

someone, or move past them is still acknowledged and this
adherence to etiquette, grace and manners really does define a whole
society. The quirks and nuances associated with Japanese culture
are perhaps indicative of a group of people who aim to please and
keep everyone happy. I didnt witness any arguments or loud brash
behaviour among Japanese people. Even the youth I observed here
are not especially boisterous.
Every area I visited had something special, a uniqueness that
defined it. Subcultures, landscapes, dialects - small microcosms living, existing and functioning in different ways within the wider
macrocosm. I also noticed a real sense of family, community and
care. It was rare to see a Japanese person dining alone and activities
and hobbies appear to be group orientated.

connections with the past that, are not only evident in the customs
and traditions of the culture, but are also physically integrated into
the modern landscape. Fukuoka is also a great base to explore a
wider area in the Kyushu prefecture and I make the most of my
rail pass jumping on different trains that take me further afield.

Japan takes a systematic approach to daily life and processes. There

is a sense of automation here - everything has an order (and a
ticket machine!) I found this strangely comforting. At the same time
those automated processes were found in places where, perhaps
they would be least expected, (I suppose in comparison to where I
currently reside) and a feeling of staticity exists in places where you
would expect technological advances to exist. - for example,
supermarkets still have cashiers and no self service check outs.

Nokonoshima Island, located 45 minutes from the centre of town

has a beautiful flower garden and I wiled away a day here taking
photographs of the seasonal blooms and enjoying the scenery.
(Pgs 43-44)

Its a different approach to what I have experienced in my home

country, but it hasnt sacrificed the human interaction so important
when offering a service. Once I got to grips with those processes,
everything really was plain sailing.

I also take the opportunity to visit Mount

Aso - one of the biggest volcanoes in the
world. Unfortunately, I wasnt able to get
as close as I would have liked due to
dangerous volcanic activity. The
volcano was still visible from a distance
and I could only imagine what this would
have looked like from a closer
perspective, however the rolling hills and
landscape in the small area located near
the eruption were a treat.

I get the sense that the Japanese are a rule orientated society and this
is perhaps what keeps that sense of order and flow in place, even
though at times some of those rules appeared to be counter-intuitive.
I caught myself asking on many occasions - why on earth is X done
in this way)? I guess the saying: if it aint broke dont fix it may
apply here because everything works just fine.

Tochoji Temple - Fukuoka

Lizards, butterflies and all manner

of insect species reside in this area
too numerous to mention. Irimote
Jima is famous for its Mangrove
trees, Amazon type river (The
Urachi River) and the rare Irimote
cat. There are apparently only 100 Nokonoshima Island Park
A day trip to Yufuin was an enjoyable
left on the island and are nocturnal
experience. Quaint cake and coffee shops
creatures rarely seen so I didnt look for any.
line the streets of this small town in the Oita area. Yufuin is
another Onsen town (not far from Beppu) and I enjoyed taking
Boarding the Urachi river boat sailing a little way down the river,
another relaxing dip in an outdoor onsen before visiting Lake
I observe wild boars grazing on the verge and Mangrove trees
Kinrin. (Yet another lovely lake)
with their strange spindly roots floating above the water, before
As I begin to wind down from my journey and approach my last
docking and venturing into the jungle from this point. (Pg 39)
few days in Japan, Im overwhelmed with melancholy and feeling
A stop in Ishagaki before heading to Fukuoka gives me some time
wistful. I pull myself back to the present (realising I have a couple
to stop and take stock. I catch up on my journal and organise a
more days left to enjoy) and contemplate what I have observed
photographic library before heading back to the big city againover the last couple of months.
adapting to the frenetic pace contained within all major cities.
The Japan I have experienced has given me respite. A gracious
Fukuoka is interesting. Its modern and slick. This city gives
and civil culture, politeness and consideration seems to permeate
the impression that it has made attempts to be cutting edge and
every area I have visited. There is a calmness here that I cant
this sense of innovation is reflected in the architecture. Its glass,
quite put my finger on. Even amidst the hustle and bustle in the
curves and strategic lighting galore! At the same time Fukuoka
major cities, I get the impression that personal space is

Japan is predominantly a Buddhist country. I learnt that the

practice of this philosophy is fused with the Shinto religion which
pre-dates Buddhism. Shinto beliefs revolve around the concept
of power and spirituality manifesting through nature. Japan
worships many Gods, saints and deities and the ritualistic feature of
this particular religion can be felt in everyday life. There is a
correlation between rituals and processes, rules and systems - an
invisible thread that, none the less can be felt and a strong sense
of discipline appears to be an integral part of society here, perhaps
derived from traditional roots that have held fast and been carried
into the present.
I came to Japan with a few
objectives - To gain an insight and
understanding into the culture, to
experience something different, to
indulge in my love of Japanese food
and to see if this may be a country
I could reside in.
I will be back.

Password
Jo