A Practical Guide to Grooming

Catherine Slaney, Ph.D.

Sheridan College
Animal Care Program
Revised Sept 2010
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Table of Contents
1.0

INTRODUCTION

2.0

BUSINESS PROCEDURE

3.0

HEALTH CARE

4.0

EXTERNAL PARASITE TREATMENT

5.0

RESTRAINT

6.0

GROOMING PROCEDURE

7.0

EQUIPMENT

8.0

POODLES

9.0

BICHON FRISE

10.0 TERRIERS
11.0 SPANIELS
12.0 MIXED BREEDS
13.0 SETTERS
14.0 CATS
15.0 THE GROOMING BUSINESS

INTRODUCTION
THE IMPORTANCE OF GROOMING
A well-groomed dog is not only happy, but healthy. Care of the
dog's coat will greatly influence his general appearance. The
skin is an organ of the body that reflects the dog's general
health. If the dog is kept in good health, the skin and
consequently the coat will testify to this condition.
Each breed varies in the type of care necessary to maintain a close proximity to its
standard. However, basic brushing is necessary to maintain an attractive coat in all
breeds. The massaging action promotes circulation of the blood and helps loosen dead
skin (commonly referred to as dandruff or scurf). Vigorous and frequent brushing is
particularly important when the dog is shedding. Some dogs shed once or twice annually,
as the temperatures and amount of light change, but many smooth, short-haired breeds
shed almost constantly. Continual brushing and grooming may be helpful in reducing the
quantities of hair left about the house.
The dog groomer may often find the grooming out process rather tedious if the dog is
badly matted. If the dog's owner has been well trained to regularly groom and dematt the
dog, it will only take a few minutes to prepare most dogs for the bath. Thus the groomer
should develop a flair for public relations in order to facilitate the job and keep the owner
and dog happy.
All dogs regardless of their age or breed should have a regular grooming session
established. Although a new puppy appears to have a clean and matt-free coat, it will
eventually require some attention. It is far easier to establish rules of good behaviour with
a puppy that has no need to object, than with a larger, older dog that is full of mats. Once
the routine is set, most dogs willingly submit to the procedure.

REVIEW QUESTIONS - Introduction

1. Describe how the skin functions as an organ. Use references. Draw a simple diagram
of the main parts of the skin.
2. How does regular brushing improve the condition of the skin and coat?
3. What steps can a groomer take to make their job easier?
4. Why do dogs shed?
5. Why would this grooming skill enhance your value to a veterinarian?
6. Why do you need to practice the grooming skills taught in this course?

CHAPTER 1
1.1 THE SKIN AS AN ORGAN
The skin is the covering or integument of an
animal. It is a vital organ with a complex
structure. In all vertebrates the skin consists
of two layers; the epidermis, which is richly
celled but relatively thin and is derived from
the embryonic ectoderm, and the dermis
which is thicker and tougher, of mesodermal
origin and is mainly composed of fibrous,
connective tissue.
The epidermis:
can be divided into several layers.
The deepest layer that rests on the dermis, is called the stratum germinativum or
basal-cell layer and consists of a single layer of columnar epithelial cells.
Interspersed between and slightly below these cells lies a network of melanin
pigment-forming cells or melanocytes, which have many bran like, cytoplasmic
extensions which act to transfer melanin pigment to deeper portions of the
epidermis.
The next layer is the stratum mucosum, spinosum or prickle-cell layer, which is
several cells thick, followed by the stratum granulosum which contains a granular
material, keratohyal, in the cytoplasm.
The next layer, the stratum lucidum contains a lipid-resembling substance called
eleidin, which acts as a barrier to the passage of water and salts.
The most superficial layer, the stratum corneum, consists of 10 to 20 layers of very
flat, dead, dry, keratinized cells, which adhere to one another tightly except nearest
to the surface, where they are continually shed as microscopic flakes.
There are no blood vessels in the epidermis and so it must receive its nutrition
from tissue fluids.
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The dermis
has an outer thin, relatively loose, papillary layer adjoining the epidermis and an
inner thick, dense, reticular layer that blends into the subcutaneous connective
tissue.
Papillae carry capillary vascular loops and may also contain specialized nerve
endings.
Most of the structural material of the corium consists of the fibrous proteins
collagen and elastin.
The corium is well supplied with blood vessels and nerves and striated muscle
extends into the dermis at certain points.
Smooth muscle is widely distributed in the corium in the form of thin bundles
attached to hair follicles.
Sebaceous glands
Sebaceous glands are multi-lobulated structures with short ducts that open into the
necks of the hair follicles that excrete a highly complex mixture of lipids, called
sebum, which diffuses upward in the follicle, impregnates the hair and surrounding
horny layers of the skin to participate in forming a greasy skin surface film.
This film helps maintain normal pliability of the skin by retarding loss of water
form the horny layer, delays absorption of many foreign substances and contains
substances that are protective against infection.
Germinative cells surrounding the gland proliferate, and moving towards the
centre of the gland - discrete droplets of lipid progressively accumulate in their
cytoplasm - finally, these cells burst and liberate the enclosed lipid material.
The skin functions
There are also absorptive, secretory and excretory, and respiratory functions of the
skin as it acts as a protective, sensory and body-temperature regulating system.
Vitamin D is produced in the epidermis when the skin is exposed to sunshine.
It acts as a barrier to physical injury and to bacteria and other biological factors.
Since it is nearly waterproof, it enables the relatively fluid body to exist in dry air,
to be immersed in fresh water without becoming swollen and in salt water without
becoming shrunken. The keratinized layers of the skin, which are practically inert
chemically and are poor conductors of heat and electricity, also serve, together
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with melanin pigment, as an effective screen against ultraviolet radiation.

1.2 THE HAIR

Hair, in mammals, acts not only as insulation from the cold but as a sensory organ.
Hair may be in the form of long, tactile bristles or vibrissae or as smaller hairs,
generally distributed over the body, horns, claws, hoofs, nails and glands may be
found in the skin appendages. Snout hairs or whiskers are very sensitive to touch
and are particularly helpful to animals who roam in the night.
Hair filaments are dead, thin, flexible, shafts of highly keratinized epithelial cells
developing within slanting tubular invaginations of the epidermis, called hair
follicles.
The deepest portion of each follicle is enlarged to enclose a vascular papilla,
projecting from the dermis into a bulb.
Hair is continually shed and renewed by the operation of alternating cycles of
growth, rest, re-differentiation and renewal of growth of the hair follicle and its
associated structures.
Claws and nails, which are considered a thickened form of the epidermis, are
found in the dorsal aspect of the distal phalanges of the digits.

REVIEW QUESTIONS Chapter 1

1. The skin is the covering or _______ of an animal.
2. It is a vital ________.
3. The outer layer of the skin is called the ___________.
4. The inner layer of the skin is called the _____________
5. A network of ________ contain the cells that provide colour patterns on the skin.
6. The epidermis receive nutrition from _______ _________.
7. The dermis contains _________ vessels and _________endings.
8. ______glands surrounded by germinative cells secrete lipids or ______ around the
hair follicles.
9. Vitamin ___ is produced in the epidermis of the skin when it is exposed to
sunshine.
10. Hair serves to ___ animals from the cold.
11. Hair serves as a _______ organ.
12. Sensory hairs on the face are called ______ or _________.
13. Hair filaments are composed of keratinized ________ cells.
14. Hair can be found on other parts of the body other than skin such as __________,
_________and ____________.
15. Hair grows out of the hair _____________.
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CHAPTER 2
2.1 APPOINTMENT PROCEDURE
1. Answer the telephone quietly with the words, "Animal Centre, may I help you?"
2. Explain the purpose, times and procedure of our grooming classes to the inquirer.
3. If the dog has been in before, you may check their card and update it. Make sure
you get the caller's names, address, day and evening phone numbers, the breed of
dog, sex, age and name.
4. Ask when the dog was last vaccinated and note the date on the card.
5. Be able to give directions to the College, the parking lot, the closest doors and the
Animal Centre.
College - on the S.E. corner of McLaughlin and Steeles
Parking Lot First lot to the right when entering the college. Clients must go to
security booth and inform them they are dropping off /picking up an animal.
Animal Centre - B196 clients must enter through doors closest to the animal
centre across from the student centre. They are not allowed to walk animals
through the college.
6. Double check by summarizing the information regarding the appointment. i.e.
Your appointment is for Wed., Sept. 1st at 10:00 a.m. and ROVER should be
ready to be picked up at 12:00. Appointment times are scheduled hour before
the start of a lab session. Pick-up times are scheduled hour after the end of a lab
session
7. Inform the owner that someone will be calling a day or two before the
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appointment to remind them.

8. If there is any change to the appointment, the owner should be informed

immediately by the person who perceives the change. CALL THE CLIENT and
reschedule the appointment. Apologize for the change and explain the
circumstances. Record the new appointment and confirm it as usual the day
before.
9. Some clients may have to bring their dogs in early and pick them up later. The
person making the appointment MUST make sure someone is available to admit or
discharge the dog either a person on Animal Centre Duty or a person on Cleanup Duty for that day.
10. The phone number for the Animal Centre is (905) 874-4301. If a call is made
within the College, the extension is Ext. 4301.

Sheridan College Animal Centre - Grooming

Record
Surname ____________________ First Name_________________ Phone Home _____________
Address _________________________________________________

Bus. ______________

Email ______________________________________________

Breed ____________

Age ______

Sex _____

Colour_______ Name _________

___________________________________________________________________________

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2.2 ADMISSION PROCEDURE

1. Admit the dogs one at a time.
2. Make sure the paper work is ready to be processed
before the dogs arrive. This is usually done by
the students on Animal Centre Duty.
3. All dogs should be suitably restrained, either
end of a short lead, crated or held in the arms of
owner.

on the
the

4. Confirm that the client is scheduled for an

appointment by referring to the Grooming
Appointment binder.
5. Record/ update information about the dog or owner on the Grooming Record.
Include vaccination information and any medical issues.
6. Make sure you understand EXACTLY what the owner would like you to do.
Make sure the owner understands EXACTLY what you can and cannot do for the
dog. This requires that you check the animal completely for any matting or other
coat conditions. If in doubt, check with the instructor.
7. Put the dog away in a CLEAN kennel or run with a fresh bowl of water and a
blanket. Identify dog with a kennel card.
8. Owners must be given a written ESTIMATE of the grooming charge for their dog.
Refer to the estimate sheet posted on the board in the reception. If in doubt, check
with instructor. Ask owner if we are permitted to walk their animal while in our
care. Make a note of this on the consent form. Once this information is completed,
have the owner sign the Consent Agreement before they leave.
9. Place your slip lead on dog. Remove their collar and lead. Hang on numbered
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hook board in reception and properly identify.

10. Inform the owner when the dog will be ready to be picked up.

11. All paperwork for the dog should be placed on a clipboard and hung on the hooks
behind the entrance door to the Animal Centre.

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15

2.3 CUSTOMER RELATIONS

1. Make sure you know exactly what the owner wants done with his animal before he
leaves and do your best to please him. However, do not make promises we cannot
keep. If in doubt about an owners request, consult with instructor.
2. Find out what time the owner wants the animal ready and do so. If you find you
will be late call the owner and give a definite time when the animal can be
released.
3. If the style the owner wants cannot be done because of the coat condition, do your
best to explain why we cannot accommodate their request and suggest a
compromise. Ensure that the owner is aware of the possible end result prior to
their leaving.
4. Let the owner know that the estimate they were given could change dependent
upon the degree of difficulty we have in completing their individual animal.
5. When returning the dog to the owner, try to explain a reasonable schedule of
maintenance at home.
6. Let the owner know when it is recommended they bring their animal back for his
next grooming. Some people may even prefer to make an appointment at that time
before they leave.
7. When greeting the owner, always know the breed of dog you are going to groom
even if it is a mixed breed.
8.

Always call the customer by his name.

9.

Ask the owner the dog's name and use it thereafter when speaking to the
owner.

10.

If during the grooming session the animal suffers an injury such as a nick from
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the clippers or scissors, clipper burn or a cut nail quick, inform the owner. They
will appreciate your honesty and the warning of possible consequences more than
a nasty surprise.
11.

Do not go into great detail about all your little difficulties with their dog. These
confessions are rarely appreciated and in most cases are usually considered a
reflection of your own inadequacies.

12.

Never appear frightened of the dog. Remove him as quickly as possible from
the owner's presence. Usually they will settle down and not cause much further
trouble without the protection and security of their owner. Never drag a dog
away from its owner. If a dog seems to resist going with you, ask the owner to
leave first.

13.

Always refer the owner to their own veterinarian for health advice. NEVER
diagnose a health issue.

14.

Try to refrain from reprimanding a dog in front of its owner. They will not be
very responsive if the reprimand is not done absolutely correctly, particularly if
it is not endorsed by the owner. In fact, refrain from giving any command to a
dog if you cannot enforce it.

15.

Always ask the owner if the dog has had any history of health problems, such
as heart weaknesses, epilepsy, hip or knee problems or allergies. Keep in mind
that even healthy dogs can suffer from minor oversights. (i.e. short faced dogs
such as Pekinese or Pugs may have breathing difficulty if left unsupervised
under a dryer.)

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2.4 CLEAN UP DUTY

Each grooming group will be scheduled for Clean-up Duty on a rotation basis each week.
When your group is on duty you MUST be available and coordinate your efforts with the
rest of the group. You will lose marks if you do not show up on time and help assist your
group. If the group on Animal Centre Duty has not yet had an opportunity to address the
following, your group must do so.
FIRST & MIDDLE LAB SESSIONS (10-12 or 12-2)
1. Be available 15 minutes before class to organize your paper work, make sure
cages and runs are clean, refill shampoo bottles, cotton, ear cleaner, etc. Check on
towels, set up tables and dryers, ensure bathtubs are clean and set up.
2. Admit the dogs as they come in according to the Admission Procedure. Make sure
all cages are kept clean.
LAST LAB SESSION ( 2-4)
1, Stay after the grooming session to clean, oil if necessary and put away all
equipment and supplies. Take the hair out of the dryer wheels, remove the hair from
the air intake on the wall, sweep, put laundry in bin, clean bathtubs
2. Make any alternate arrangements if owners need to pick up late. Someone should
meet them.

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REVIEW QUESTIONS Chapter 2

1. How do you confirm that a Grooming appointment has indeed been made?
2. What two methods of restraint are acceptable for the owner to use when bringing
their dog into the college?
3. Does a client pay for parking? What is the procedure? What parking lot should a
client use?
4. Can dogs be brought through the main entrance? Why? What door of the college
should the owner use when bringing a dog in for grooming?
5. What is the room number of the Animal Centre? What is the phone number of the
Animal Centre?
6. Who confirms the appointments each week? When?

7. What appointments are available each week?

8. When should a Grooming Record be made up?
9. What arrangements need to be made if an owner can only bring their dog in before
8:30 a.m. and cannot pick it up until 5:00 p.m.? Who does this?
10. Why do we accept dogs in for grooming to the Animal Centre? Whose animals do
we accept? What animals do we not accept?
11. How do you identify a dog in the runs?
12. What form must be signed before the owner leaves the dog?
13. a) How do you identify a dog's collar and lead?

b) Where are they stored?

c) What else could be done with them?
d) Where are they NEVER put?
14. Why is it a good idea to know the name of the breed?
15. Why is it important to know the name of the dog?
16. What sort of things should you know about the dog before the owner leaves it?
17. Why are ALL doors kept shut at all times?
18. Where can a dog relieve itself?
19. What must we have before we can take a dog for a walk that is in for grooming?
20. What do you do BEFORE opening the door to the runs?
21. What do you need to know before the owner leaves?
22. What happens if you need to get in touch with the owner after they have left?
23. Why is it to your advantage to explain to the owner a grooming maintenance
program?
24. What should you do if you feel you cannot meet the owner's requirements because
of the dog's coat condition?
25. What should you do if you find yourself running late?
26. Why should you always recommend a vet's opinion if you suspect a health
problem with the dog?
27. What should you NEVER do if you suspect a health problem with a dog?

28. To whose vet should you refer the client?

29. What would you expect the reaction of the owner to be if you got bitten by their
dog?
30. How should you deal with a misbehaving dog around the owner?
31. How many groups are there in your class?
32. Which group are you in?
33. What do you do to the equipment before you leave?
34. How often does the floor need to be swept up?
35. Who cleans the dirty kennels and runs? When? Who cleans accidents in the hall?

CHAPTER 3
3.1 EXAMINATION OF ANIMALS IN YOUR CARE
When animals come in for grooming you should be able to conduct an efficient health
examination. Although it is not your place to attempt to diagnose conditions, you should
be able to recognize any health problems so that you can inform the owner and refer them
to their veterinarian.

HEALTH CHECK LIST

1. Eyes - they should not be running and gooey with discharge
indicating an infection. Some eyes run simply due to an
external source of irritation such as dust, hair growing into
eyes, distichiasis, entropea, ectropea and allergies. Usually a good
clean up will solve most problems, however if a physical
condition exists the animal needs to see a vet.
2. Ears - are often dirty, smelly and infected. If a chronic infection exists the owner may
simply wish you to clean and pluck the ears properly so that their prescribed medication
can be readily applied. If the animal has not yet been examined by a veterinarian, I would
prefer that you leave the ears alone and insist the owner have them treated properly. You
should also check for ticks, fly eggs and ear mites in the ears. Do not put anything in the
ears that will not be removed, such as powders or ointments.
3. Anal area - check this area carefully to ensure that no infection or inflammation is
present. You should not attempt to express infected or abscessed anal glands. Sometimes
the rectal area is simply red and sore because of dried feces left on the skin. Gently soak
these off and wash thoroughly with soap and then apply a bland ointment to the area. In
this case the condition will probably heal nicely but the owner should be informed so that
they will seek the advice of a vet if the condition worsens.
4. Feces - Although most dogs are quite clean when caged and will try not to soil their

bedding, there are occasions when this is impossible. Some dogs develop diarrhea when
nervous. This does not necessarily mean they are sick. Again inform the owner so that
appropriate steps can be taken if the diarrhea persists at home.
5. Food - I do not recommend feeding an animal that is in for grooming. Most dogs will
not eat from a stranger let alone in a strange place. Treats even from home are rarely
eaten. You simply increase the chance of soiling once the animal is bathed and dried. The
change of food can upset their system. They will not be hungry if they were fed properly
at home. Thus feeding is unnecessary. I would not want someone else feeding my dog
under these circumstances.
6. Water - On the other hand, water is extremely important. It should be available at all
times. Dogs are nervous and get thirsty. They often sit under hot dryers and can become
dehydrated.
7. Ectoparasites - Fleas, ticks, lice, mange and ear mites can often be seen on these
animals. Take the appropriate steps to delouse the animal. Do it immediately so that you
do not run the risk of infecting any other animals in your care.
8. Teeth - If you discover the teeth of an animal are in poor shape and need a good
cleaning, recommend veterinary advice. The groomer should never attempt to scale teeth
without veterinary supervision. This is a medical procedure and usually requires
anaesthesia or at the very least sedation. There are commercial products like toothpaste
for dogs on the market and you may be asked to sell these products or use them. This type
of cleaning can easily be done by the groomer or the owner.
9. Fever - If an animal appears feverish, i.e. has a dry nose, is warm to the touch or is
listless, then you should take its temperature. If an animal is sick do not subject it to a
grooming session. Send the animal home, refer the owner to their vet and re-book the
appointment for another time.

10. Endoparasites - You may observe signs of worms in the dogs you groom. Tapeworm
segments that look like pieces of dried rice often cling to the hairs of the rectal and tail
area. Round worms that look like spaghetti may appear in the feces or in the vomit of
dogs. Again, inform the owner and refer to their vet.
11. Lumps - Under those hairy coats often lie surprises. Lumps and bumps of various
shapes, sizes and sources may be found. Show the owner and make a note of it. The
owner should have it checked by a vet. Most are not malignant tumours and need only be
removed for cosmetic reasons. Others are dangerous and should be monitored and
reported if they change shape, size or colour.
12. Umbilical hernias - These are small hernias that are the result of a small tearing of
the abdominal tissue at the time of parturition (birth) when the umbilical cord is severed.
They should be noted by the vet but are usually not repaired until more major surgery is
required such as spaying or neutering.
13. Allergies - Many dogs have allergies just like people. They can be allergic to dust,
pollen, grass, wool and foods. You can often see the result in the dog's coat condition.
There are various shampoos on the market that will sooth the irritated skin and removed
scurf. Some shampoos contain antiseptics and can be sulphur or tar based. The best
approach is to first determine the source of the allergy through the process of elimination.
Medication from the vet can also help. Allergy shots are even a possibility. Many dogs
are allergic to the saliva of the flea and this acid plus the acid from the dog's own saliva
when licking and chewing the affected area, will turn the hairs brown.
14. Vaccinations - To save yourself any unnecessary worries, you should never admit an
animal to any facility who has not been vaccinated within the past 12 months. This
precaution will inevitably save everyone a lot of grief. As a regular handler of strange
animals you also should be vaccinated for rabies and tetanus.

15. Malnutrition - Occasionally you may get an animal in that looks undernourished.
Find out what the owner is feeding the dog and refer them to a vet to have the dog
checked for worms or any other abnormality. The outside condition of the dog should tell
you about the inside condition. Some people just don't realize that they need to adjust the
amount of food the dog eats, as it grows larger and more active.
16. Obese animals - These animals are generally the products of a good and loving
home, but have obviously too much of a good thing. Sometimes they are being fed the
wrong things, but often it is simply more than they need. You can advise these owners,
but do it sensitively as owners often perceive their animals as a reflection of themselves.
As well, if these are well-loved animals, the last thing an owner would want you to think
is that they are not well cared for. Be diplomatic and informative. Giving the owner
sound reasons for reducing weight will probably prove to be the best course of action.
17. Chronic Conditions - Make sure you take a thorough medical history of each animal
admitted. Some will have heart problems, epilepsy, blindness, deafness and other chronic
ailments. Be sure you know how to deal with these conditions before the owner leaves.
Have the name and number of their veterinarian on the dog's record.

3.2 NAIL TRIMMING

Claws are modifications of the skin and are specialized for digging and traction. The
outer layer is horny and may be pigmented, partially pigmented or unpigmented (white).
The inner layer is the dermis (quick) which contains a blood vessel and is sensitive to
pain. Normal claws extend only a short distance past the quick and just miss the ground
when the dog is in its normal standing position. This allows the foot to maintain a natural
compact shape. Nails, which are too long make the foot spread out abnormally and make
walking uncomfortable and the gait unnatural.
When neglected nails can grow out, around and into the pads of the feet causing great
discomfort and pain. In some cases infection may develop. This is most apt to happen to
the dewclaws that are often forgotten under long hair. Some breeds, such as Spaniels or
Lhasa Apsos grow great quantities of hair between the pads of the feet that envelopes the
foot and nails so that the nails cannot scrape naturally on the ground and thus remain
grow very long.
Proper nail clippers should only be used, never scissors as they can split the nails. There
are several varieties of nail clippers available and serve different purposes and so should
be kept on hand. The signs of nails requiring trimming include long curling nails, nails
clicking on the floor, nails turning sideways and curling, nails growing into the back of
the pad of the foot, the dewclaw curling back into the pad and a long hook-like, hollow
projection on the end of the nail.

METHOD
Use a nail clipper of an appropriate size. Guillotine clippers come in small,
medium and large sizes.
Hold the guillotine clippers in an upright position so that the cutting blade is
towards you and you can clearly see what you are cutting.
Grasp the dog's paw gently in the other hand, steadying any movement by pressing
your elbow into your side.
Position the tip of the nail inside the cutting area of the clipper and snip quickly
but firmly.
When using the scissor or plier types of clippers you will be able cut at an angle
that is convenient. Generally you want to slice upwards into the softer under part
of the nail. If the nail is particularly narrow, such as in cat nails, you may find it
easier to cut from the side of the nail. This sometimes eliminates the possibility of
splitting the nail. Overall remember that the nail should be cut at a right angle to
the angle of the quick, not simply straight off.
If there is any doubt about how much to cut off, then take only a sliver at a time.
Note it is not important how short you trim the nail as long as it is not touching the
ground and the animal is comfortable. By trimming the outer layer, the dog can
more easily wear down the soft, inner part of the nail as it walks. It is better to
leave the nail too long than to trim it too short and cause bleeding and pain.
If the nail does bleed, pressure should be applied and the dog should be calmed
down. A caustic substance can be used to stop the bleeding such as Quick Stop or
Silver Nitrate or a pressure bandage can be applied

3.3 ANAL GLANDS

All animals have anal glands that can be found on either side of the rectum. Originally
they were meant to act as lubricators for hard, dry or coarse stools. At one point the
canine species hunted wild game for food and consequently ingested a certain amount of
bones, feathers, fur, leaves and twigs. Nature's way of handling this type of diet was to
lubricate the excrement on the way out. Hence anal glands served this purpose. As well,
each animal has a peculiar scent that is perpetrated by the anal gland. This serves as a
means of identification and much elimination behaviour can be categorized as marking
behaviour and is known as their `calling card'.
Today dogs live a much different lifestyle and their diet is now very civilized. They eat
commercial dog food that has been thoroughly processed and therefore does not
contribute to coarse stools. Large dogs still manage to create large stools that tend to
press against the anal gland as they leave the body and thus benefit from any lubrication
the gland can provide. Smaller dogs on the other hand usually have small, soft stools and
thus do not make use of their anal glands. Consequently these glands can become full
without ever being naturally expressed and should therefore be expressed by the groomer
or a veterinarian.
The signs of impacted anal glands are biting at the anal region, `scooting' or dragging of
the anal area on the ground, sharp yelps and whines directed towards the back end and a
red, swollen and inflamed rectal area. If the area appears to be extremely painful or
inflamed or even worse, abscessed, the dog should be referred to a veterinarian.
The main caution to be noted is that nature rules. Thus when the glands are expressed the
body will fill them again. The more often you express them, the more often they will fill hence a catch 22. Only express anal glands when they appear to be full, when the owner
asks for it to be done (usually having noted one of the signs of impacted glands, or if the
dog has a medical condition that dictates they be regularly expressed.

METHOD OF EXPRESSING ANAL GLANDS

1. Shampoo the dog's entire body first so that after the anal glands have been expressed,
the substance can be washed away. The odour tends to cling to the coat so be sure to wash
and rinse thoroughly.
2. Pull the tail up so that the rectum protrudes slightly, thus making the glands more
accessible.
3. Place the side of the thumb on one side of the rectum and the middle finger on the
other side.
4. Gently squeeze the glands, expressing them from the inside to the outside.

5. Anal glands can also be expressed internally by inserting a finger into the rectum and
squeezing one gland at a time. You should use a rubber glove for this procedure. This
method is recommended in cases where the dog is very sensitive.
6. Make sure your hand or a paper towel is shielding the excretion so that unnecessary
cleaning is avoided.
7. If in the bath, rinse and re-shampoo the area to ensure complete removal of the
substance.

3.4 CARE OF THE EARS

All dogs that come in for grooming MUST have their
ears checked and cleaned. Different breeds require
different methods of care.
Dogs with long pendulous ears like Spaniels and
Setters are notorious for developing ear infections,
particularly yeast infections as there is little air
circulation inside the ears. Yeast is a bacterium that is present under normal conditions in
the ears, but flourishes in dark warm, moist areas. What better place than the deep
pockets of one of these ears? These dogs are often in water, they rub their ears on the wet
grass or snow or they simply absorb moisture into the inner hairs of the ear, creating a
moist environment.
Infected ears become sore and inflamed. The skin looks red and a strong, rank odour is
present. As the infection takes hold, copious amounts of dark, waxy substances build up
in the ear canal. A veterinarian should examine the ear in order to determine the problem.
If any doubt remains, a culture can be taken and the specific bacteria involved can be
detected so that an effective antibiotic can then be prescribed. The ear must then be
thoroughly cleaned or flushed. NOTE when adding ear medication, that the ears are
normally wiped clean before each new application.
Some dogs such as Poodles, Lhasa Apsos, Shi Tzus, Bichon Frises and Schnauzers grow
hair inside the ear canal. This is a by-product of the types of coats that humans have
selectively bred in these breeds. The hair blocks air circulation and needs to be plucked
out with the aid of an astringent powder that can help to dry the hair and allow it to be
removed more efficiently. Hemostats make excellent plucking tools and can be found in
various sizes as well as straight or curved styles. Only a small amount should be removed
with each plucking. The finer frizzies left behind can easily be removed with the fingers.
The ear is then disinfected and cleaned. Always make sure that all moisture is removed
from the ear.

SIGNS OF EAR INFECTION

 Most dogs will begin by scratching at their ears at the first sign of an ear infection.
Gradually this added irritation will make the condition worse and they will resort
to rubbing their ears on the ground, cocking their heads to one side or whining at
any touch to the area.
Some dogs will actually lose their equilibrium or show sign of deafness.
Once you detect a problem, you can actually see large amounts of dark brown,
foul-smelling wax.
Blood and pus may even be present in serious situations.
Generally these dogs should be referred to a vet.
Sometimes dogs have a more or less chronic condition which has been seen by a
vet, diagnosed and treated.
In such cases the groomer merely has to inform the owner that the condition has
returned and to reinstate the treatment.
However, they should be warned that if the dog does not respond in a few days
they should have him re-examined by the vet, in case the infection is sensitive to a
different treatment.
Often owners will bring the medication to the groomer at the time of grooming.
Many dogs never have ear trouble and just a gentle cleansing once a month should
ensure good ear conditions.

METHOD OF EAR CLEANING

1. Secure the dog on a table and have someone restrain the dog firmly but gently.
2. If the ears need to be plucked, add a SMALL amount of ear powder and gently pluck a
few hairs at a time. Twist the remaining hairs out with your thumb and forefinger.
3. Insert a few drops of ear cleaning liquid to the ear canal and gently wipe out the excess
dirt, wax and cleaning liquid.
4. Carefully swab the inner ear canal with a Q-tip being sure not to contaminate it. Work
from the innermost part of the ear outwards. Never take dirt or bacteria from the outer
ear to the inner ear.
5. Wipe the inside of the ear flap until it is clean.
6. Be sure not to get any water in the ear during the bath. Dry the ear with a Q-tip to be
sure after the bath is completed.

Chapter 3 Review Questions

1. How would you detect and ear infection? What would you do if you detected an ear
infection?
2. What is the difference between ear mites and an ear infection? How is the treatment
different?
3. Which dogs are fed in the Animal Centre?
4. What is always available in all cages or runs?
5. As a groomer can you clean teeth? How?
6. a) What kind of worms look like spaghetti in the feces?
b) What kind of worms look like dried rice under its tail?
7 a) What is a sebaceous cyst?
b) What is a tumour?
c) What is an umbilical hernia?
8. Name the vaccinations required for
a) a dog
b) a cat
9. Describe the structure of the nail in detail.
10. Why does the quick get so long when the nails are not trimmed regularly?
11. Name 3 different styles of nail clippers and the specific conditions that call for them.
12. Describe another method of trimming nails.
13. Name 5 signs of nails needing to be trimmed.

14. How would you trim a cat's nails?

15. What 2 products can you use to cauterize a bleeding nail? What can be done if these
products do not work? Describe in detail.
16. Describe how to restrain a dog for a nail trimming. From which side of the animal do
you trim the nails?
17. Explain the purpose of anal glands and how they help a dog defecate.
18. What causes anal glands to become impacted?
19. How can you help prevent chronic problems with anal glands?
[Link] two methods of expressing anal glands.
21. Where is the best place to express anal glands? Why?
22. Describe the structure of the ear in detail.
23. Name 3 breeds of dogs that need to have their ears plucked.
24. Name two breeds of dogs can are prone to yeast infections.
25. Describe the signs of an ear infection. What should you do?
26. What product can you use to help remove hair from the ears? What instrument do you
use to pluck hair from the ears?

CHAPTER 4
PARASITES
4.1 FLEAS
Fleas are wingless, small, compact insects,
especially adapted to sucking blood. Fleas are
classified as Arthropoda (jointed foot). Several
different genera of fleas, primarily of rodents, can
transmit plague and other serious diseases to man
and animals. The flea most common to dogs and cats, Ctenocephalides, meaning `comb
head' does not transmit disease form dog to dog or from dog to man. The dog tapeworm
uses the flea as an intermediary host and the dog is therefore infected by ingesting the
flea.
Defleaing an animal is not the final answer. The flea's eggs may be laid in bedding, in
grass, in the dog's favourite chair, in cars or in any other place the dog frequents. Flea
sprays, soaps and powders will normally kill the live fleas that have infested the animal
but new eggs will probably hatch eight to ten days later. In fact these eggs can lie
dormant for extended periods of time.
Fleas do not live on people, but if an animal is not available, they will make a meal of
human blood and leave a very itchy lesion. Cat fleas are smaller than dog fleas and seem
to move much faster. If a dog comes in contact with an infested cat, or vice versa, the
fleas will readily infect the new host.
Flea `dirt' is the dried blood that a flea excretes. It looks like bits of dirt or black pepper,
usually apparent on the back of a dog. Live fleas are most readily seen on the underside
of the animal, particularly between the legs. To successfully kill a flea manually, one can
snap the body between one's nails, and thus put a definite end to the creature.
Flea season usually begins in August after a couple of hot, dry months. It lasts until the
deep frosts. Current products are extremely effective on all life stages of the flea.

TO DEFLEA A HOUSEHOLD
1. Flea baths will kill the adult fleas on the animal at the time but do not have a
residual effect. Other methods need to be taken to combat the infestation in the
house and to prevent the animal from becoming reinfested.
2. Flea collars are available but have not proven particularly effective, however, if an
owner wants to buy one it should be the plastic type. It should be fitted properly
and the excess end cut off so that the animal does not chew on it. Yorkshire terriers
and very young puppies or kittens should not wear such collars as they can be very
toxic. Be sure you do not double-dose an animal by using a No-Pest strip at the
same time as this has the same ingredient in it.
3. Oral treatments must be procured from your veterinarian.
4. Powders or sprays can be used but specific instructions apply to each based on the
formulation of the product.
5. The woodwork, broadloom and any other areas that the animal frequents should be
thoroughly vacuumed and treated with a product.
6. The final resort is professional fumigation.

4.2 TICKS
Ticks are an order of insects classified as Ixodidne and can be found on man and animals.
The hard ticks have a scutum or shield which makes it very difficult to destroy them.
Dogs tend to pick them up in wooded areas or sandy beaches. The simply drop onto the
animal and burrow into the skin, sucking on the blood. Several diseases can be
transmitted by ticks such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and tularemia.
It is important that the tick is killed first before any attempt is made to remove it from the
skin. Usually a good flea and tick shampoo will do the trick. If this is not available, cut
the body of the tick and then carefully remove the entire tick with tweezers. If the head is
left in the skin it will fester and the dog will need veterinary attention.
LICE is sometimes found on dogs, particularly around the ears and head. The dog must
be bathed in an insecticidal shampoo and then the dead lice must be scraped off the
surface of the skin. This is very difficult if the dog is not first clipped right down. People
can get this kind of lice from dogs, so it is very important that one works carefully around
such infested animals.
MANGE can be found in several forms on dogs. These little animals cause a great deal
of irritation to the skin. An appropriate shampoo should be used. Veterinary attention
should also be sought. Work carefully and with rubber gloves as this can be contagious to
people.
RINGWORM is a not actually a parasite, but rather a fungal infection. It is contagious to
people and one should be wary of animals with dry or oozing round or splotchy sores.
Sometimes ringworm is not very obvious, particularly on cats. If you notice any itchy
soreness on your own skin see your doctor. Animals must be treated by a veterinarian
with prescribed medication. Regular flea shampoos do not work.

Chapter 4 Review Questions

1. What are fleas? Are dog fleas different from cat fleas?
2. What month of the year is the worst for fleas? Can fleas lie dormant for a season?
3. Do fleas transmit diseases or parasites? Explain.
6. What is the length of the flea life cycle?
7. What happens if a flea-infested animal were removed from its premises?
10. What is flea dirt? How can you test flea dirt?
12. Why are fleas so hard to eliminate?
13. Describe how you should bath a dog in order to remove fleas?
14. What products would you recommend to treat a flea problem? Why?
15. What is referred to as the residual effect of a flea shampoo?
16. How do you kill a flea manually?
17. Can fleas spread from a dog to a cat?
18. What should you do with the bedding of a flea-infested dog?
19. What should you do with a bed mattress that a flea infested dog has slept on?
20. What brands of flea shampoo do we have in the Animal Centre?
21. What are ear mites? How are ear mites transmitted?
22. How can you tell the difference between ear mites and an ear infection?

23. How are they treated differently?

24. What are ticks? How are ticks transmitted? What does a tick eat?
25. How should a tick be removed from the skin?
26. What can be the physical results of a tick infestation?
28. What is mange? How is mange treated?
29. What are maggots? When would you expect maggots to be a problem for an animal?
30. What do lice look like? How does a dog get lice?
31. Can people get lice from a dog? Can people get mange from a dog?
32. What is the difference between ringworm and a parasitic infection?
33. Is ringworm always obvious on cats?

5.1 RESTRAINT FOR GROOMING PURPOSES

All dogs must be restrained on a lead when on college
grounds. Remove the dogs collar and lead and replace it
with your own lead. If the dog is small enough to lift it will
be picked up by the Attendant and placed in a cage or run.
The Student lead will then be removed. At no time is any
dog left in a cage or run wearing a collar or lead. When
the animal is removed from the cage or run the Student lead
is again placed around the dog's neck and the dog is placed
on a table. At all times an Attendant will be holding onto the
dog to ensure that it does not fall or jump off the table and
the lead may then be removed.
It is easiest to groom a dog if it is in a standing position. In this way the groomer can see
all areas of the dog's coat and can reach around the dog easily. All dogs can be trained to
stand for grooming so that it does not continue to be a chore to get the animal to stand. If
a dog is allowed to lie down or sit the groomer must constantly be adjusting the dog's
position and this disturbance will lead to further disruptive behaviour on the part of the
dog. If the dog is standing the grooming will be completed that much faster and thus will
create that much less discomfort to the dog.
When a dog is standing on the table the handler should hold the front leg just above the
elbow with one hand and the hind leg just at the hock with the other hand and in this way
ensure that these two feet never lift off the table. If the dog has a tendency to sit or lie
down the handler can change the hand on the hind leg to support the lower abdomen. The
weight of the dog does not have to be held continuously. Rather, a few finger pokes
should motivate the dog to stand and if the hand is left lightly in a ready position the dog
will not likely attempt to sit down on it. Of course there are times when it is easier or
more convenient to have the dog sit and or lie down, but generally one should try to
groom it from a standing position.

To restrain an uncooperative or biting dog the handler may have to consider a muzzle.
Most dogs, once muzzled, will give up struggling and endure the procedure quietly. Great
care must be taken to ensure that the dog gets enough air. The tongue should be checked
for good pink colour, for any bluishness would indicate a lack of oxygen. Short-faced
dogs will have difficulty breathing when muzzled. Muzzles need only be used for the part
of the procedure that is provoking resistance. Muzzling is most useful when removing
matts or when trimming nails. Always try to work without a muzzle first. Never use a
muzzle on a tranquillized animal for they may experience difficulty in breathing.
Some tables will come with an arm and noose so that a dog can be attached to the table in
a standing position. Some tables can also accommodate a second arm that can support a
second noose that will slip under the dog's abdomen, forcing it into a standing position.
These items are very useful to the groomer that is working alone. When working in a
group, the other members should be able to perform these duties in person.
To restrain a dog securely for a nail trimming one must consider the dog's sense of
security. This can be done by wrapping the arm closest to the head of the dog under and
around the throat and by hooking the thumb under the collar or by grasping the skin of
the back of the neck. If the dog struggles the side of the neck should be brought tightly
against the handler's chest. The dog cannot choke because the elbow of the handler is
bent in such a position that pressure is not placed on the front of the throat but rather on
the sides. The head is held up, but the hand on the top of the neck holds the head of the
dog down from the handler's face. Thus the face of the handler and the hand of the
groomer are protected from bites. The other arm of the handler is wrapped over the top of
the dog's body and if possible the elbow on the far side of the dog is held in position
under the dog. If the dog struggles, the upper arm tightens and the handler's elbow keeps
the hips of the dog tucked under and very close to the body of the handler.

The BIGGEST MISTAKE one can make is to LET GO of the dog. This simply teaches
the dog that if he struggles it will pay off and he will eventually be released. The next
time you attempt to restrain him he will fight that much harder since you have just
rewarded him for escaping. As well he may actually bite someone or even jump off the
table, hurting himself - a very costly mistake. Be firm but do not resort to yelling or
physical reprimands. You must give the impression that you have control of the situation.
If necessary you may be able to lift the dog off the table by the scruff of the neck if he is
small enough (just as his mom would have done). Thus you will signal that YOU ARE
THE DOMINANT ONE and the dog must submit. Make the submission a tolerable one
by being gentle as well as firm. Respect is gained through a demonstration of compassion
and consistency. Use a minimal amount of restraint necessary for your purposes.

5.2 EQUIPMENT for Restraint Purposes

1. COLLARS AND LEADS
a. Dogs own collar
b. Kennel leash
c. Choke collar various styles
2. TABLES
a. Appropriate size for dog
b. Appropriate height for handler
c. Sturdy and safe lock the legs
3. GROOMING ARMS AND NOOSES
a. Use with extreme caution do not use if unnecessary
b. NEVER leave a dog unattended on the table when in a noose
c. ALWAYS ensure that someone has a firm hand on the dog so that he knows
you are there for him
d. Use appropriate size
4. MUZZLES
a. Styles Basket, Velcro, Tied bandaging, Snap, Face mask
b. Ensure that it fits securely
c. Still need to restrain dog so that he does not peel it off with his front feet
5. SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENT
a. Catch Pole
b. Bags
c. Nets
d. Gloves
e. Boxes
f. screening

 5.3 GROOMING AND HANDLING THE AGGRESSIVE DOG

Some dogs bite. The groomers job is to determine why and then what to do about it.
Some bite due to poor temperament, past negative experiences, separation anxiety,
territoriality, dominance related behaviours, fear of the unknown, or even just a lack of
confidence in the handler. The list goes on and on. However, for our purposes there is
usually much an owner and groomer can do to keep the dog from biting while being
groomed. Puppy classes are highly recommended as they offer the dog an opportunity to
socialize with other dogs while away from their home territory. Regular trips to the
groomer at an early age will also help the dog adjust to the situation and allow the dog
and groomer to get to know each other.
When a dog is presented at a grooming facility, the groomer must evaluate the dogs
temperament when the dog first enters the premises. The breed of dog can potentially
indicate a dogs response to specific situations. Telltale signs of aggression or fear can be
readily assess from the dogs body language (eyes, facial expression, head position, body
movements, hair raised around neck and top of back, tail, vocalizations, etc.) If a dog
shows signs of aggression or fear before being admitted the groomer can suggest that the
owner remain to assist the groomer and calm the dog at least for the initial session.
On the other hand, sometimes the owners presence makes the dog more agitated and it is
best to remain out of sight. Sometimes dogs simply feel out of control when placed
behind bars but will settle down when the cage door is opened and the dog is securely
fastened to a lead.
Once on a lead or on the table, these dogs will usually submit. If the dog lunges at the
cage door it is probably better to allow the dog to approach the handler when the door
opens, rather than going in to get the dog. The handler can remain behind the door and
then slip the noose over the dogs head as he is passing through the cage. If the dog
appears to be on the attack the door should be closed securely and the dog left for the
owner to retrieve.
Dogs that are not groomed every day are often prime candidates to become biters. But all
groomers realize that dogs that bite still have to be groomed. Most groomers will accept
dogs that bite if the owners are honest with them and particular precautions can be taken

(refrain from putting dog in cage, ask owner to pick dog up and put on the table, muzzle
before putting dog in cage, extra person to help restrain the dog, have owner restrain dog
for nail clipping or other aspects that will agitate the dog, etc. These dogs usually settle
down when they get to know the groomer, the premises and the agenda that it is just a
painless groom and bath procedure not a death threat!
If a dog is too aggressive for a groomer to handle safely the dog must be referred to a
veterinarian for sedation. NO ETHICAL GROOMER WILL ADMINISTER ANY DRUG
TO SEDAT AN ANIMAL. THIS IS ETHICALLY, MORALLY AND LEGALLY A
VETERINARIANS FUNCTION. A sedated animal should be groomed at a veterinary
hospital where it can be medically supervised. A partially sedated dog that is a biter is
unpredictable. IT will still try to bite but its reflexes will be slower. Occasionally a
sedative can work in the reverse and the dog will become highly agitated instead.
Dogs that should not be groomed are dogs that bite even when a groomer is not working
on them. The owner of such a dog usually knows that he dog may bite but may choose
not to tell the groomer. This is not fair to the groomer. These owners reveal their concern
by asking, Did he try to bite you? If that is the case, simply call the owner and ask them
to retrieve the dog. It is important that the groomer not be bitten as their livelihood
depends on their safety and welfare. Reading the signs, taking the appropriate precautions
and using effective restraint will ensure a safe and pleasant session for both dog and
groomer.

Chapter 5 Review Questions

1. When restraining a dog, how can one prevent the groomer from being bitten?
2. How can one prevent the dog's hind end from spinning away from the person
restraining it?
3. How can one prevent the dog from biting the front restraining arm of the handler? How
can one prevent the dog from biting the face of the handler? How can one prevent the dog
from putting his feet over the front arm of the handler?
4. What two legs of the dog are normally sufficient to restrain when a dog is standing
cooperatively on the table?
5. What is the biggest mistake you can make when restraining a difficult dog? Why?
6. How can you encourage a dog to stand and then stay standing?
7. Why is it best to train a dog to stand for a grooming session?
8. Why should a dog not jump onto the table or into the tub alone?
9. What should be removed before a dog is placed in a cage or run?
10. How could you make a dog remain standing if you were working alone?
[Link] 3 kinds of choke collars. Describe how to fit a choke collar to a dog. Why are
choke collars available in different thicknesses?
12. Why is a chain lead unsatisfactory? When would it be necessary?
13. Describe how to tie a dog's mouth shut with a lead rope.
14. Describe one other type of specialized restraining equipment.

CHAPTER 6
6.1 BASIC GROOMING
TECHNIQUES
1. Table Set-Up - Use a table that does not require you to
stoop or bend over, and which is sturdy enough to support
the dog's weight. A variety of tables are now on the
market. Some even have hydraulics to adjust the height,
but of course mean much $$$! The size of the table can
also make a difference - if you are working on a small dog, then a small table will mean
that you do not have to reach across it and the dog has less a of tendency to move around.
Use a rubber matt on top of the table if it does not come ready-made with one. Some
people like to use a chair but you must be sure that you can sit high enough to be on top
of the situation. You have very little control over the dog if you are working beneath it.
2. Using the Slicker Brush - When using a slicker brush do not slap the brush on the
animal as the wires will scratch the skin causing abrasions, commonly known as brush
burn, and possible sources of infection. Use a `soft slicker' if you are working with
sensitive skin.
3. Brush out the undercoat in layers, not just the top. Work from the bottom of the dog
(bottom of the back legs) to the top - always from the inside to the outside of the coat.
Remove ALL matts. If they cannot be brushed or combed out, they will have to be cut or
clipped out - but NOT WITHOUT PERMISSION. Make sure your instructor if aware of
the situation before you cut anything!
4. Grooming the short-haired dog - Brush short-haired
dogs with the grain, using a bristle brush, rubber brush or
glove or a hound glove, made of horse hair. Slicker
brushes can be used with extreme care, to remove
undercoat and to get through thick but short coats.
5. Grooming the medium-length coat - Medium-length

coats, such as Setters, Spaniels and Golden Retrievers should also be brushed with the
grain. Use a slicker brush gently so as not to damage the feathers. A pin or bristle brush
can also be used when the hair is not matted. In fact, some undercoat is left in strategic
places for show animals to enhance their conformation. A steel comb can be used to
remove undercoat and straighten feathers.
6. Grooming the thick coat - Profuse coats on Afghans, Maltese and Yorkshire Terriers
will require long bristle and pin brushes. Do not break the hairs. Brush from the skin out.
7. Grooming the double-coat - Double-coated dogs such as
Collies, German Shepherds, Pomeranians and Norwegian
Elkhounds will require a slicker brush, a long pin brush, a steel
comb and scissors or matt slicers. The undercoat must be
removed in layers, damaging as few hairs as possible in the
process. Mats should be removed and if necessary, cut in a
lengthwise direction with the matt and gently combed out.
8. Grooming short-haired cats - Short-haired cats can
be gently brushed and a rubber glove will also help
remove shedding hair. A very fine steel comb will
remove loose hairs.

9. Grooming long-haired cats - Long-haired cats need to be brushed

and combed regularly because their hair is so fine and will readily matt.
They are not very cooperative when it comes to removing matts and
baths are also fairly traumatic. Some cats need to be sedated but this
should only be done under the advice and direction of a veterinarian.

6.2 ABOUT SHAMPOOS

The pH of the shampoo is important, as this will affect the condition of the skin and hair.
The chemical symbol pH is a measurement of the hydrogen ions in a solution - that is the
acidity or alkalinity of the solution. The pH scale runs from 0 - 14 with 7 being neutral.
The lower the number the more acidic the shampoo, the higher the number the more
alkaline.
The measurement is logarithmical, meaning that a single step in the scale represents a
tenfold step in measure. Thus, 8 is ten times more alkaline than 7; 9 is a hundred times
more alkaline than 7 and 10 is a thousand times more alkaline than 7. The optimum pH
for human skin and hair is 4.5 - 5.5 and the best pH for dogs (the most alkaline of other
animals tested) is 6.2 - 8.6 with an average of 7.52. One can expect some variation
depending on the breed, age and sex of the dog.
Maintaining the proper pH balance in the shampoo enhances its cleaning qualities and
makes the coat shiny and healthier as well as protecting the skin. Very acidic shampoos
can eventually dehydrated the hair follicles, damaging the fibres and causing breakage
during regular grooming. Some dogs become very itchy when acidic shampoos are used
since they tend to lock detergents within. Too alkaline a shampoo may affect the hair's
colour molecules, trace oils and moisture content and weaken the hairs.
Special shampoos can be used for the different types of coats. Some products specialize is
softening agents, while others add texture to the coat. Some are specially formulated with
colour enhancer for the various colours. Optical brighteners and highlighting can add
lustre and sheen to a dull coat and the bluing agents in whitener shampoos will remove
yellow or gray discolourations.
Most shampoos are sold in a concentrated form, so be sure to read the label and dilute the
product accordingly. Flea shampoos and medicated shampoos should not normally be
diluted. Conditioners can also be watered down when applied to the bathed dog.

6.3 BATHING PROCEDURE

The bathing procedure should be a simple and pleasant experience for both the dog and
the groomer. Make sure all the necessary equipment, shampoos and towels are ready and
within reach. Adjust the water temperature before the dog is put in the tub.
The dog is quietly lifted from the table to the tub. There is no need to put the dog on the
floor and walk it over to the tub, as this tends to just distract the dog and groomer. The
water is turned on with the groomers fingers over the nozzle so that any change in water
temperature can be detected immediately.
The water should be gently applied to the shoulder area and then moving down the body,
legs and tail, wetting the entire dog. Lastly the head is wet, carefully avoiding the eyes
and ears.
Shampoo should be applied to the neck area, back, tail, legs and underbelly and then
lathered well. Take special care to scrub the feet and any areas of skin with flaky skin
with the rubber brush. After a light rinse a second shampoo can be done on particularly
dirty dogs. Shampoo is then generously applied to the head, lathering the face, eyebrows,
beard and ears.
This area is then rinsed thoroughly, so that any chance of getting shampoo in the eyes is
reduced. Tearless shampoo can be used around the face, especially on flat-faced dogs. If
the dog is infested with fleas the head will have to be shampooed first. Finally rinse the
whole body well, starting with the head.
When the dog is free of all shampoos and conditioner residue, squeeze out the excess
water, then wrap a towel over the body and blot the water again. Leave the towel draped
over the body and carefully lift the dog from the tub to the clean table. It is not necessary
to put the dog on the floor first.

6.4 BLOW DRYING

For best results, all coats
should be blow dried to allow
the hair to stand away from the
skin.
Use a slicker brush to gentle
separate the hairs be careful
not to create brush burn.
The hairs will dry straight and
separate and then the coat can
be easily trimmed and
finished.
Have your dryer ready and
then turn it on, directing the air
towards the shoulders and
hindquarters.
Do not blow the air in the face
at first.
Brush gently a small area at a
time until the hairs are completely separated and flying in a circular motion.
The blow dryer helps remove any left over matts and undercoat, separates the hairs
so that they do not matt easily next time, dries the hairs thoroughly and straightens
the hairs so that they stand out from the body and can easily be trimmed evenly.

6.5 CHALKING
The purpose of the chalking is to enhance the natural colour of the dog and to add texture
to the coat. For cosmetic purposes chalking and powdering can be done to hide colour
faults.
In the case of predominantly white dogs, the problem of maintaining that sparkling clean
appearance is solved by using white chalk as a cleaning agent. It will also help to make
the feathering thicker and easier to control. Cornstarch and baby powder are the most
commonly used substances in the sporting breeds. It can be found in powdered and block
form and may be applied to wet or dry coats. The general practice is to use powdered
chalk or cornstarch on the wet coat and block chalk or talc on the dry dog and for touchups. If the dog is being exhibited all traces of powder must be removed from the coat
before the dog enters the ring.
For wet applications the feathering should be sponged down, using a minimum amount of
tepid water and then dried with a towel. The white areas of the body should be sponged
on the surface sufficiently to dampen the coat. A dusting a chalk is then applied to the
feet, working it into the coat with a bristle brush, including in-between the toes to make
the feet appear more compact and to the leg furnishings and underchest if the feathering
is predominantly white. The chalk should be applied with the grain of the hair on the
body and special care should always be taken to avoid over powdering the coloured
areas. The area above the eyes can be chalked by taking a pinch of chalk between the
fingers and applying it carefully while the dog's head in inclined forward and downward.
SACKING A DOG
After chalking, the dog can be `sacked up' if desired, which will help to flatten the coat.
Then the dog is placed in a warm confined area until the coat is completely dry when all
the chalk will be completely brushed out. If a dog enters the ring with any remains of
powder it will be eliminated.

6.6 PLUCKING AND STRIPPING THE HARD COAT

The purpose of plucking is that the old, dead hair is removed without cutting it allowing
fresh hair to grow in wiry and flat. The effect is that the coat will lie flat and ripply and
yet may still be several inches long. This coat gives the wearer an advantage in that it will
protect the dog from the cold, sharp briars or thorns and insulate it from the cold water.
This type of grooming procedure is mean for the two-coated breed with a hard, dense and
wiry top-coat and a shorter growth of softer hair called undercoat. A `hand-plucked' coat
means trimming with the finger and thumb, with the thumb held against the stripping tool
in such a manner that a small amount of hair is taken between the finger and thumb and
plucked downward or in the direction that the hair grows. The new hair will grow back in
the same direction that the old hair was removed. This procedure is usually most easily
done when the coat is shedding or is `full blown'. In fact, if a dog is hand-stripped or
plucked it will very likely never shed and the dead hairs will already have been removed.
To be ready for a show in time, a groomer must prepare the dog by stripping it down to
the skin at least 8 weeks prior to the show. Then regularly the coat must be evened-up by
a little plucking. About 2 weeks before the show, the dog is plucked again, but only
enough to even the coat out.
Today groomers have an advantage in that a number of various stripping tools have been
developed. Three different sizes of stripping knives are needed, fine, medium and coarse.
Fine knives leave the hair quite short and are used on the heads, neck and shoulders of the
dogs. Coarse blades are used on the top of the back to leave as much hair as possible and
the medium knives are the middle-of-the-road types. All knives should have very dull,
blunt edges so that the hairs are not accidentally cut off instead of being plucked out. To
test it, pluck out some hair with the knife and determine if there is more hair above the
teeth than there are roots below the teeth which would indicated that hair has been cut.
Furnishings can also be plucked with the fingers to preserve the colour and texture.
Finally rub the dog's skin with baby oil to soothe any irritation and then bathe in a mild
shampoo. This type of coat is normally not bathed, as this tends to soften the coat, so a
bath at this stage of the grooming is a good idea. Towel dry with the lay of the coat.

6.7 THE CORDED COAT

This is a coat that is basically matted into thick cords all over the body of dogs such as
Pulis and Komondors. These coats tend to retain stains and odours and are extremely hard
for the average pet owner to keep. Each cord must be carefully pulled apart reaching right
to the skin. The coat is then shampooed and rinsed with a squeezing action. It is never
rubbed, brushed or combed.
The fact that only a corded Komondor can now be exhibited at a dog show should lead to
our seeing more well-groomed representatives from that breed. The Puli may be shown
either in brushed or corded form. At one time the Poodle was also shown in a corded
coat, but today is not allowed in the ring in this style.

Chapter 6 Review Questions

1. Why would regular grooming make a dog happy?
2. Why would you consider the skin an organ of the body?
3. How does grooming promote the circulation of the skin?
4. Why do you need to worry about the inside of the dog in order to make his coat shiny?
5. Why does grooming reduce shedding?
6. What two weather factors affect the rate of shedding?
7. Why does regular brushing make a dog's coat shiny?
8. Why is grooming hard on your back?
9. Why do you need to know the breeds of dogs recognized by the CKC?
10. What are the 7 groups of dogs recognized by the CKC?
11. How do you identify a mixed breed of dog?
12. What happens if you use a slicker brush too hard?
13. What is the difference between the undercoat and the topcoat?
14. When would you use a rubber glove to groom a dog?
15. Why is a table important for the groomer?
16. Why should a dog never be allowed to jump off the table?
17. Why should a dog never be allowed to jump into or out of the tub?

18. Why must the undercoat always be removed BEFORE the bath?
19. How does the pH affect the skin and hair?
20. What is the proper pH for humans? What is the proper pH for dogs?
22. What happens if human shampoo is repeated used on a dog?
23. What would happen if too alkaline a shampoo were used on a dog?
24. How can a dirty, yellowed coat on a white poodle be enhanced?
25. Name the brands of medicated shampoo in the Animal Centre and describe the
conditions when their use would be appropriate.
26. Why do show people chalk their dogs? What reason would a regular groomer have
for using chalk or powder on a dog?
28. What is does it mean to `sack' a dog?
29. What is the difference between `plucking' and `stripping' a coat?
30. What would indicate that a wire-haired dog's coat was `full-blown'?
31. What instrument is used to strip a hard coat? What effect does stripping have on a
wire-coat? What effect does clipping have on a wire-coat?
34. What is a `corded' coat? How would you dry a corded coat?
36. What two breeds can be shown in a corded coat? What other breed used to be shown
in a corded coat?

CHAPTER 7
7.1 BASIC GROOMING EQUIPMENT
NAIL TRIMMERS
Guillotine Type - As the dog's nail is inserted into the opening the handles are pressed
together and the blade slices from the bottom to the top of the nail.
Scissors Type - These trimmers are used much like scissors. The underside of the nail is
softer than the upper so the slicing of the nail should begin at the underside. This style is
great for getting around nails that have grown full circle and sometimes even into the
pads of the toes. Dewclaws are often found in this state.
Safety Nail Trimmer - This is a scissor style that has a safety stop behind the blade. If it
is not needed it can be moved to the side.
A-2 Clipper Attachments - Various attachments can be added to the Oster A-2 clippers
with a special adaptor. The nails are then filed down as with an electric sander.
Electric Nail Groomer - This tool has a rotating head that grinds the nails down. The
speed of these rotations actually cauterizes any bleeding that might occur.
Nail File - A nail file can be used to shorten nails or to simply file off the rough edges. It
should be used from the top of the nail downwards.

SCISSORS/SHEARS
Blunt-tipped - These can be used for vulnerable areas such as around the eyes, ears, toes
and nails. They are especially useful on nervous dogs or on puppies.
Barber Shears - These are long and straight and taper to a point. they are usually used
for finishing work and overall scissoring. They come in a variety of lengths.
Curved Scissors - These are used for shaping rounded areas such as pompoms and
topknots. They are also useful on specific areas of various breeds.
Thinning Shears - These are very useful in creating a natural look when trimming a
feathery coat. Matts can also be thinned out nicely so that with further brushing holes in
the coat can be undetected. Blending of different lengths can be done with thinning
shears.
How to Hold Shears - Shears must be held properly in order to control tiny fluctuations
in the hand movements. The thumb is put through the larger of the two openings. The
ring finger is placed in the other opening and the baby finger is placed on the open shank.
The index finger will be placed under the shank of the shears to support the weight and
steady the tool. Fingers 1,4 and 5.
Duplex Dresser - This tool is used much like a stripping knife but it has a razor blade
within the safety edges that cuts the hair leaving a feathered look. It is used on soft silky
coats to achieve a more natural look.

BRUSHES AND COMBS

Slicker Brush - This brush is used to remove undercoat and to straighten hair when blow
drying. It comes in a variety of sizes and styles. Soft slickers are also available for
sensitive skins.
Bristle Brush - This brush is used on short-haired dogs to removed shedding hair and the
undercoat. It also helps bring out the shine of a clipped or short coat.
Pin Brush - This brush is used on long coats to finish and smooth the look. It will not
remove matts.
Matt Splitter - This tool is used like a comb to split matts. It does not necessarily remove
them so the coat must still be brushed as combed as usual. It helps keep thick coats thin.
This tool is more useful for the owner than for the professional groomer.
Rake - This tool is used to rake through thick, long or matted coats. It does not
thoroughly remove matts but does help break up the coat so that a comb and brush can be
used more effectively.
Hound Glove - This is a special glove that is used to flatten a coarse or short coat and
make it look sleek. Its bristles are made from pure horse hair.

7.2 CLIPPERS
The Oster A-5 Small Animal Clipper has traditionally proven to be the most durable
and efficient clipper but the Andis is currently taking over the market. Other brands come
and go, but generally they jam and wear out or burn out very quickly. The Oster A-5 and
the Andis can be readily purchased in most pet supply outlets and blades and parts can be
easily obtained. The different blades can be snapped on and off. This type of clipper uses
an armature motor and therefore is powerful enough to stand up to daily use.
Some of the older style clippers like the Oster A-2 Small Animal Clipper require tone to
use screwdrivers to attach the various blades. This can be quite tedious. Some less
expensive brands of clippers are a vibrator type and are not very powerful. There is
usually only one blade that is used with an adaptor to vary the length of hair removed.
Some pet owners use this type for an annual clipping of their own dog. They would never
stand up to daily use by a professional groomer and the results would not be up to the
standards of professionals.
Thus taking the time and money to select the best equipment will likely prove the most
satisfying in the long run. If proper care is exercised these clippers will last for years.
They should be serviced at least once a year, depending on the amount of use. The blades
will have to be sent out for sharpening on a regular basis. Frequent lubricating and
cleaning of the blades will increase their cutting efficiency.

7.3 CLIPPER BLADES

Various sizes of clipper blades are available and are usually interchangeable with other
makes of clippers. Although one generally settles on a few favourites, it's nice to have a
selection. Generally speaking, the lower the number, the coarser the blade. However,
there are a few exceptions.
#4 - This blade is used when the owner does not want the dog `stripped'. Long and short
teeth alternate on this blade. It is used on the bodies of light coloured or thin- coated
poodles. It is also used on coarse-coated dogs such as West Highland Terriers, Cairns,
Irish Terriers, Airedales and Sealyhams. It should simulate a `plucked' look.
#4F - This blade leaves the hair about as long as the #4 but achieves a more even and
finer texture. The teeth are all the same length.
#5 - This blade is very similar to the #4 and is often used on the bodies of white or light
coloured poodles. It leaves the hair long enough to cover pink skin and is less
irritating than the finer blades.
#5F - Similar to the #4F but takes hair a little shorter.
#7 - This blade is used on the bodies of black and dark coloured poodles and is a good
choice for thick coated dogs. It tends to be sharper than the #4 or #5 and can cut under
matts. It can be well used to strip O.E.S.D.s, Afghans and Spaniel Crosses.
#7F - This blade is a real favourite for it can give a nice smooth look to a soft coat and
still leave a bit of hair. It works well on Spaniels.
#8 1/2- This is an all-purpose blade and leaves the hair just a little shorter than the #7F.
#10 - This blade is the most useful one for it can be used on all breeds. It does however
take the hair quite short. It can be used on the tender areas of the body that might be
sensitive to the clippers and clipper burns, such as the belly, ears and under the tail.
It is used on the face, feet, tail and belly of the white or light coloured poodles.

#15 - This blade can be used instead of a #10 but takes the hair just a little shorter. It is
best used on the face, feet, tail and belly of the dark coloured poodles.
#30 - This blade is only used on show poodles. It takes the hair very short.
#40 - This is a surgical blade and removes all hair.
#18 - This blade is sometimes found among older collections and is basically almost the
same as the #7.
#5/8,6/,7/,8/8 - These blades are made for the feet of toy poodles. They are very narrow
and manoeuvre easily between the toes.
SKIP TOOTH - This blade has every second tooth long and two short in-between. It
leaves the hair a little shorter than a #7, but the disadvantage of leaving lines on a
smooth coat.

BLADE SHARPENING
The clipper blades should be sharpened regularly. Dull blades, improper sharpening and
excess tension will force dull blades to inefficiently, causing the clipper to overheat, slow
down and reduce motor and blade cutting life.

7.4 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CLIPPERS

CHANGING THE BLADES
To Remove: Stop the motor, depress 'Blade Lock Latch', push the blade away from the
clipper and slide off the tongue.
To Replace: Turn the motor on, insert the blade completely onto the tongue and then
snap the blade into lace. It is not necessary to operate the blade latch.

FOR BEST RESULTS

1. Always clip with the hair grain unless specified by the style.
2. Feed the hair slowly. Give the clippers a chance to feed and cut the hair. You will get
better results and save time.
3. Should cutting blades refuse to cut, examine the cutting surfaces of the upper and
lower cutting blade units. If hair or foreign matter is present, remove it, for the blades
cannot cut through it, even if they are sharp.

GREASING
Add very little grease and only when necessary. Over-greasing can cause leakage and
reduce the operating efficiency of the clipper. Check once a month by removing the metal
nameplate. Then remove the Link and Gear from the Gear Post. Add the grease until it
appears out of the top and bottom holes on the side of the Gear Post. If the grease does
not come through, clean the holes. DO NOT FILL THE CAVITY WITH GREASE. Now
replace the Link and Gear and add very little grease to the teeth of the Gear and Linkage.

OILING
Cutting Blades: Apply oil several times daily to maintain a light film on the mating faces
of the blades and the tension spring guide.
Clean blades cut better and last longer. To clean, detach the cutting blades from the
clipper and without separating, slide the upper blade half way to either side. Do not
remove the tension spring fastened to the lower blade by two screws as that may change
the cutting tension. Brush well with kerosene, coal oil or clipper spray and repeat on the
other side. Wipe dry.
If the blades should become jammed and difficult to put back into place, separate them by
lifting the spring with the fingertip just enough to slide the upper blade into position. Run
the motor when re-attaching. Before cutting hair apply a thin film of oil or clipper spray.
Oster Spray Lube and other commercial products can be used liberally throughout the
clipping procedure. This is a combination of oil and solvent. Spray directly on the teeth of
the blades while the motor is running.
Motor: Oil only if the motor develops a small 'squeal' due to a dry bearing. Add only one
drop of oil in the bearing oiler near the front at the upper right. MORE OIL IS
HARMFUL. Do not use a detergent oil because it drives the oil out of the bearing and
does not provide adequate lubrication.

CARBON BRUSHES
Check periodically. Unscrew the slotted out caps on the sides of the clipper. Remove the
round cap by applying a slight pressure to the side with a fingernail and remove the
brushes. When the square section in reduced to the same length as the round section, the
carbon brushes should be replaced as they will cause damage to the armature.

7.5 CLIPPER BURN

Clipper burn is a condition that many dogs suffer after a clipping. It is a skin irritation,
feeling much like a burn and cannot necessarily be seen by the groomer at the time of the
grooming, nor can it likely to be seen by the owner. However by morning, if left
untreated, the dog will very likely have scratched and chewed an enormous area in an
attempt to relieve the irritation. Consequently a little problem becomes a big problem.
Every successful and competent groomer on occasion has had an experience where a few
days after grooming a dog it develops an extremely itchy, moist, scabby
area that drives the dog and the owner crazy. These skin sores are often
called Hot Spots. Hot spots (also called Moist Eczema) result from
trauma to the skin surface either from a clipper blade scratch or from
contact with a hot blade.
A true "clipper burn" is a skin lesion that can occur due to a hot clipper blade contacting
the skin.
A Clipper Abrasion is an actual scratching of the skin surface from holding the blade at
the wrong angle to the skin or from using the wrong sized blade.
The most common site for this problem is along the cheekbone and on the cheek. Hot
Spots (moist eczema) require repeated cleansing and often oral antibiotics to hasten its
resolution. Be especially careful with the clippers around the cheeks, it's just possible the
sharp points on the blades are creating tiny scratches that become irritated or infected,
then the dog scratches the area compounding the skin trauma and shortly after that you
get a call from the owner! This condition should be checked by a veterinarian. And don't
be discouraged if you loose a client because of "clipper burns"... whoever they take the
dog to next has had their share too! You won't know when it happens, but you'll find out
a few days later.

Clipper burn is cause by a number of factors:

1. clippers too hot

2. clipper blades dull
3. pressing the teeth of the clipper blade too hard onto the skin
4. going over and over a particular area
5. clipping a dirty skin area
6. using too fine a blade
7. going against the way the hair grows
8. not using the cooling and lubricating spray on the blades
9. brush burn will create a condition
10. Hot spots can result from inadequate rinsing, too. If any shampoo is not rinsed
away completely and remains in contact with the skin for an extended period of
time, a local skin infection can result. The solution: Rinse thoroughly and dry the
entire skin and coat before sending the dog home.
If you suspect that a dog you have clipped might potentially suffer from clipper burn then
you should:
1. tell the instructor
2. cool the skin with cold water
3. make sure the dog is rinsed thoroughly after the bath
4. apply an ointment to the area
5. do not contribute to the irritation by over using the brush
If you suspect the dog may have experienced some skin irritation you must tell the owner

so that they will be prepared to take the necessary action. If the dog does indeed have
clipper burn, the owner MUST take the dog to the vet and have it treated with antiinflammatory medication. This could be in the form of injection, ointment or tablets. If
the owner waits until the next day the damage will already be done. Some dogs even need
to wear an Elizabethan collar (or bucket with hole in the bottom). This is placed around
the neck and prevents the dog from biting at the inflamed area. The back feet may also
have to be bandaged so that the dog cannot scratch himself raw.
If proper precautions are taken the skin will heal relatively quickly from the initial burn
and these treatments can be circumvented.

Chapter 7 Review Questions

1. What type of brush is used to remove undercoat?
2. What type of brush is usually used to blow dry a dog?
3. Why type of brush would be safe to use on a Vizsla?
4. Why type of brush would be used to `finish' an Afghan?
5. When would a rubber glove be useful? When would a rubber brush be useful?
6. When would thinning shears be used?
7. What is the difference between a stripping knife and a duplex dresser?
8. When would you use curved scissors?
9. Which three fingers do you use to hold your scissors?
10. What is a matt splitter? What is a rake?
11. What is a hound glove?
[Link] kind of clippers do we use in the Animal Centre?
13. The coarser the blade, the ________________________(longer or shorter) the hair.
14. The higher the number the ________________________(coarser or finer) the blade.
15. What number of blade would you use on the belly of a dog?_________________
16. What is the difference between the #7 and the #7F?
17. When is a #30 blade used?

18. When is a #40 blade used?

19. When is a #5/8 blade used?
20. What should you do if the blades get too hot?
21. What are the two main ingredients in a cooling spray for clippers?
22. Describe how you would oil your blades after usage?
[Link] would you grease the clippers? Where?
24. When would you oil the clippers? Where?
25. Explain how you would attach a blade to the clipper.
26. Explain how you would remove a blade from the clipper.
27. How can you tell when your blades need to be sharpened?
28. What is clipper burn?
29. What steps can you take to prevent clipper burn?
30. How is brush burn caused?
31. What is the treatment for clipper burn?
32. Why is this a real problem in the grooming business?

CHAPTER 8
POODLES
8.1 HISTORY
The Pudel (Canis familiaris aquatius) is considered a `water dog' from Germany. Today it
is known as the national dog of France, the Caniche (chien canard) or `duck dog'. This
breed was used extensively for retrieving in water and as gun dog. Through selective
breeding the finished appearance and coat have been achieved.
Note the similarity in coat type and texture to the old water
spaniels and retrievers. The fancy Continental and English Saddle
trim originated as efficient sporting styles that served to keep the
vital organs and joint areas warm with hair. The rest of the coat
was shaved off so as not to inhibit the dog when in the water. As
well, Poodles were also at one time shown in a corded coat
although this is not allowed today.
This breed is bred in three different sizes. The Standards (over 15 inches at the withers)
and Miniatures (between 10 and 15 inches at the withers) are found in Group 6 (NonSporting) and the Toys (10 inches or less at the withers) are found in Group 5 (Toys).
The Poodle is usually very intelligent and sensitive and can be taught to be extremely
cooperative during grooming sessions. They are happy, friendly, bouncy dogs and if
handled properly rarely give the groomer much trouble.
These dogs are clipped and groomed in a variety of styles. The choice depends on how
much time and effort the owner can spare on the daily grooming procedure. Dogs that
come in matted should be trimmed short in order to aid the condition of the skin, avoid
unnecessary tugging on the coat and skin and to make life easier for the owner, the dog
and groomer. People who like to see their dogs long and fluffy should be responsible for
keeping them that way.

8.2 CLIPPING THE POODLE

THE BODY
1. Use a #10 blade on white poodles as this blade does
not trim too closely, thereby
decreasing your chances of clipper burn. White poodles usually have pink skin, so
leaving a little hair will not make them look so bare. As # 15 blade is fine on a black dog,
as they have black pigmented skin and it is less sensitive to clipper burn. Older dogs with
thin coats may look better trimmed with a #10 as their hair sometimes thins a little and
they can be a little on the bony side.
2. To hold the foot steady you may want to rest the elbow of your restraining arm against
your waist or even on the table. When you are first learning to clip you should engage an
assistant to restrain the dog for you.
3. Start at the bottom of the back feet. This gives you a chance to find out how the dog is
going to behave before you get too close to the teeth! The back feet are less sensitive
than the front feet and therefore are easier to trim. This will give you and the dog an
opportunity to get used to each other.
4. Clip the underpad in a "V" shape going in both directions until you have cleaned the
bottom of the foot.
5. Starting at the top of the back pad trim against the way the hair grows - upwards about
to 1/2 of an inch depending on the size of the dog. DO NOT OVERDO IT.
6. Turn the front of the foot and starting at the nail, trim against the way the hair grows upwards until you are even with the trimmed hair at the back of the foot. Trim the
entire front of the foot evenly.
7. To clip between the toes, you may use a #5/8 blade in order to get into the small
recesses. Start at the nail and using the edge of the clipper blade, trim upwards without

cutting the webbing of the foot. Work along one toe at a time.
8. When finished the foot should be very tidy with no stray hairs around the nails. Use
scissors to trim these until you become more experienced and can clean a toe completely
with the clippers.
9. Work as quickly but gently as you can so that the clippers do not become too warm.
You do not want to burn the skin by irritatingly going over and over it. Make each stroke
count.

THE FACE
1. With the #10 or #15 blade start at the ear and trim against the way
the hair grows towards the corner of a the eye, parallel to the table.
This line should be no higher than the eye or you will cut too much
from the bottom of the topknot and the final shape of the head will
look too round.
2. Trim the rest of the face working under the chin and around
to the other side. Trim down from the corner of the eyes and
over the muzzle. Starting at the tip of the nose, trim up the
muzzle in order to get the hairs growing in other directions.
Using the corner of the blade, clip an inverted "V" between
the eyes, going no higher than the top corner of the eye.
3. Trim down the neck in the direction that
the hair grows creating a "V" shape. The tip of the "V" should stop at
the breast bone, but his may vary depending on the conformation of
individual dogs.
4. Trim the inside of the ears where they meet the face.
5. If a moustache is to be left, trim only the top of the muzzle with the clippers. The
moustache should be shaped later with the scissors during the finishing stage.
6. When the dog is ready to be finished, the topknot may be scissored. Scissor the sides of
the topknot straight up from the cheeks. Trim the front and back and the sides above the
ears in a vertical shape as well. Only after the sides are trimmed do you scissor the length
of the topknot by rounding the edges. The topknot should be evenly rounded in all
directions.
7. The ears should be neatly trimmed so that the topknot blends in nicely and the ears
appear to lie flat and close to the head.
8. The top edges of the ears may be trimmed and the ends evened up. The ears should

appear as long as possible and should not generally be shortened unless specifically
desired.
9. The moustache is shaped to suit the face of the dog. Generally the hair on the lower
jaw is trimmed to about 1/4" so that when the dog opens its mouth to pant, there is no
hair hanging out. The edges of the moustache are rounded neatly. A dog without a
moustache is said to have a Clean Face.

THE TAIL
1. The tail is measured from the base to the tip. At the
1/3 mark, the hair is clipped against the way it grows
towards the base of the tail, evenly in all directions.
To avoid irritating the rectal area, clip in the direction
that the hair grows.
2. The length of the remaining hair should be twisted and then trimmed to the tip of the
tail.
3. The pompom is scissored in a round shape. Make sure the longest hair is in the centre
of the ball. Using curved shears can help make an even and rounded shape.

8.3 THE KENNEL CLIP

This is a good style for the country
dog or the dog that is not groomed
regularly. The coat is clipped fairly
short all over, leaving the ears, tail
and topknot long and shaped. This is
an excellent choice for the matted
dog or the dog with a skin condition.
PROCEDURE
1. Clip the face, feet and tail with a
#10 or a #15.
2. Clip the underbelly in the direction the hair grows with a #10. Just clean the belly
below the navel and the top of the inside of the thighs. This clipped area should not be
obvious when the dog is in a standing position.
3. Clip the body in the direction the hair grows with a #4, #5 or #7. The legs may be left
longer if desired.
4. Trim the nails.
5. Pluck and clean the ears.
6. Brush and comb out the remaining hair thoroughly.
7. Shampoo the dog with the appropriate shampoo.
8. Express the anal glands when the dog is covered in shampoo and rinse thoroughly.
9. Squeeze out the excess water and then towel dry the dog.
10. Make sure the ears are clean and dry.

11. Blow dry, brushing gently the whole time.

12. Retrim the face, feet and tail if necessary.
13. Retrim the body and scissor any hairs that are left.
14. Sculpture the topknot and tail pompom with the scissors. Curved scissors are the best
instrument to use here.
15. Trim the ears along the top edges and even up the ends.
16. Finish with a scent, conditioner and bow.

8.4 THE BIKINI CLIP

This style can also be referred to as the Clown or Circus Clip. Basically it is the same as
the Kennel Clip except that pompoms are added to the ankles.
PROCEDURE
1. Refer to the procedure for the Kennel Clip but when clipping the body leave ample
hair in the hock and ankle areas to scissor into round or oblong pompoms. The shape is
more or less determined by the conformation of the dog.

8.5 THE TOWN AND COUNTRY CLIP

This style goes by a variety of names, such as the New Yorker, or the Manhattan. It is a
longer style and therefore requires a fair amount of upkeep. The pattern is quite definite
as the back is taken as short as the face and feet, so this style must be reclipped about
every 6 weeks.
PROCEDURE
1. Clip the face, feet, tail and belly as with the basic clip.
2. Clip the body with a #10 or #15 along the lines of the pattern. Try to keep the blades
going in the same direction that the hair grows. Always leave a little more pattern than
you think you'll need as the area will appear smaller after the final trim.
3. After the dog has been blow dried, sculpture the pants, tail and topknot and trim the
ears. Place the scissors at an angle to the pattern so that you get a bevelled edge. The
pattern should not be blended from the short hairs on the body but rather try to achieve a
raised effect. The overall shape should match the natural contours of the dog's body.

6.5

THE ROYAL DUTCH

This style is a variation of the Town and
Country. It is clipped in the same way, but the
pattern depicts a `sweater' look instead of
`pants'.
PROCEDURE
1. Clip the pattern with a #10 or #15 blade.
Make sure the strip down the back and around
the loin is only the width of the clipper blade.
You may want to use the #5/8 blade on toy
poodles. Other variation can be made at this
time.

2. Finish the scissoring as with the Town and Country.

8.7

THE MODIFIED TOWN AND COUNTRY

This style is very appealing because the pattern is not too definite and the coat is
not too short. The body is left longer than in the Town and Country and the pattern is
blended into the pants. This style grows is nicely. It is practical and easy to keep. The
pants can be trimmed to the desired length.
PROCEDURE
1. Clip as the Kennel Clip.
2. Use a #5 or #7 on the body but shape around the top of the legs and blend the longer
hairs.
3. Scissor the pants so that they blend nicely with the body.

8.8 THE PUPPY CLIP

As the name implies this trim is normally used on puppies. This is the style worn
by a poodle in the show ring under the age of 12 months. The face, feet and tail are
trimmed as usual and the coat is left long all over. It may be scissored down to a desired
length. This is not a practical style for most pets as it tends to matt easily and is best
suited to puppies too young to have grown their adult coat.
PROCEDURE
1. Clip the face, feet, tail and belly as the basic clip.
2. Scissor the body evenly all over.
3. Trim the topknot and tail. Note that if you have not scissored the body, you might
simply need to clean up around the eyes, rather than attempting to trim the whole
topknot. A trimmed topknot does not tend to match the rest of the coat.

THE LAMB CLIP?

There are many versions of the Puppy Clip

and it is sometimes given other names such as the Lamb Clip which refers to a clip of
all one length that has been scissored. Below is another interpretation. Be careful that you
understand exactly what the owner is asking for!

8.9 SHOW TRIMS

The only styles allowed in the show ring are the Continental and the English Saddle. A
Puppy Clip may be used on dogs under the age of 12 months. Basically these styles
reflect the original purpose of this breed of dog - to retrieve in water. Thus the dog's vital
organs and joints were supposedly kept warm with long hair and all unnecessary hair was
shaved so that the dog would not be unduly weighed down in the water. Since that time,
Poodles have been selectively bred to enhance their appearance with an extremely fullbodied coat texture and density. These show-trimmed dogs would probably not fare too
well in the water today!
THE ENGLISH SADDLE
The face, feet and tail are trimmed with a #30. The pattern is worked with the scissors so
that a section is clipped from the loin and rings are made around the legs. The topknot is
shaped in to the full coat of the body but this hair is not scissored. The hair on the legs is
shaped to the contours of the legs and pompoms are shaped at the ankles by scissoring.

THE CONTINENTAL
The face, feet and tail are trimmed with a #30. The pattern is worked with the #30 leaving
the chest, pompoms at the ankles and a pompom on the hip joint. The topknot is blended
into the full coat of the body naturally. This part of the coat is not scissored. The tail is
scissored into a round ball. The puffs should be 1 1/2 inches long for Toys, 2 inches for
Miniatures and 3 inches for Standards.

9.1 GROOMING THE BICHON FRISE

This is an adorable little dog from the Canary Island of Teneriffe
and was originally called the Bichon Teneriffe. It is of medium
size and weight with a sturdy body and short legs. The head is
rather large for such a little guy but the expression of the face and the trim of the hair give
it an extremely appealing quality. The coat although long is fairly coarse and in most
cases can be combed out readily. Since they usually have a tolerant disposition they will
most often cooperate for the procedure. The black button-like nose and eyes are round
and alert. For show purposes this breed is scissored to the desire shape, but pets are often
clipped with a coarse blade. The head is shaped but left long and the tail, which curls up
over the back is also left long.
1. HEAD
The head is should be rounded with the scissors. Even the ears are blended into this
shape. The topknot is left long and should not hang over the eyes. The moustache is
parted and combed down to meet a rather long beard. The cheeks are left full and the
length of the ears should coincide with the hair of the cheeks and beard.
2. BODY
The body is scissored or clipped evenly all over. The legs are scissored to look like pillars
and the feet are neatly trimmed to tuck in unobtrusively under the leg furnishings.
The tail is tidied but left long. The base of the tail can be trimmed a little shorter to give it
a neat look where it meets the body. The underside of the tail that covers the rectum
should be scissored fairly short so that faeces do not cling to it.

10.1 THE WIRE COAT

The wiry hair is not constant-growing like human hair, but grows to a certain length and
then dies. It does not necessarily shed as soon as it dies, but will cling half-heartedly until
it is pulled out by the dog, by brambles or in the grooming process. Unlike other types of
hair, it will pull out quite easily at almost any stage of growth. It is easiest however, to
strip the hard-coated dog when the coat is well `on the blow', long and open. Then a
quick jerk on a tuft of hair will pull it out with ease.
Wiry hair is not the same calibre throughout its length. It is fine near the root, coarse and
stiff toward the end, with a tapered, pointed tip. There is variation in individual dogs as to
the length of the wiry part before the hair fines down, which is one cue to the difference
in even the best of coats, and in the time elapsed before certain coats need `topping'. The
fine portion as a rule is lighter in colour than the tip, although some coats are dark nearly
to the skin. It is because of this change in both colour and texture of each individual wire
hair, plus the increasing presence of undercoat, that a clipped coat is ordinarily softer,
curlier, lighter in colour and quite unlike the normal, `garden fresh' new hair of the
stripped coat. The thick, soft undercoat is completely different in makeup, never coarse at
any time.
On a clipped dog, cut portions of the outer coat can hardly be distinguished from the
undercoat. If a coat has been clipped repeatedly it can take as long as a year to get it back
to the correct texture and colour.

10.2 THE LONG-LEGGED, ROUGH-COATED

TERRIERS
THE AIREDALE TERRIER
The Airedale Terrier is the largest of terriers but one of the most
gentle. This breed is normally quite tolerant of a grooming
session and should not give the groomer too many problems.
However all terriers tend to be aggressive with other dogs and
therefore should be restrained accordingly.
In grooming these terriers the groomer should attempt to achieve a certain look. The
following should be emphasized; length of head, flatness of skull, length and arch of
neck, cleanness of cheek and barrel-like muzzle, flatness of shoulders and moderate
narrowness of front. levelness of topline, absolute straightness of front legs, with feet
small and hardly visible beneath moderate furnishings and the well bent stifles of the hind
legs, when viewed from the side, and their well-muscles straightness, when viewed from
the rear.
The main idea is to emphasize the good points and minimize the
faults.
Other breeds that would be groomed in the same manner are the
Wire-haired Fox Terrier, the Irish Terrier, Welsh Terrier and the
Lakeland Terrier.

THE WIRE-HAIRED FOX TERRIER

The Fox Terrier is found in two varieties, Smooth and
Wire. At one time both varieties were crossed and their
standards are identical except for the coats. The Smooth
provides few obstacles for the groomer. The Wire is a
different story. Except for the head, the body is groomed
like an Airedale.
As these terriers were bred to go to ground, after a quarry (usually a fox desperate for its
life), they were bred to be fearless and indomitable. Consequently they are good
tempered but have boundless energy. Again one must be careful to restrain this a breed
adequately when around other dogs.

THE IRISH TERRIER

This terrier as its name implies, is considered to be of
Irish descent. They were bred according to the taste of
the terrier fanciers and consequently have a great
abundance of `spirit and spar' and are nicknamed the
`Daredevils'. The Irish Terrier has a very distinctive red
coat and the preferred colours are bright red, red
wheaten and golden red.

10.3 GROOMING THE AIREDALE TERRIER

When an Airedale Terrier is kept as a pet and not shown in
conformation shows, most owners have little time, patience or
money to keep their dog in a c correctly stripped coat. Thus the
groomer must attempt to make the dog clean, neat and looking like
a true Airedale.
1. Clean the neck and back with a #5, #5F, #7, #7F, #8 1/2 or a #10. The texture of the
coat will determine which blade you choose. Generally speaking, the coarser the coat the
coarser the blade to be used, however one should keep in mind that a shorter coat will
tend to look neater for a longer period of time. Clip the hair in the direction that hair
grows, down the back, sides and tail. Leave the furnishings on the legs and chest. Care
should be taken to not allow the impression that the dog is wearing `bloomers'. The legs
should look full but in actual fact should not be bushing at all. There need only be left
enough furnishings to enhance the `square' look of the breed.
2. Use a #7F or #10 on the head and ears to give a clean square appearance. Trim in the
direction the hair grows. Scissor the edges of the ears. Leave the furnishings on the face.
Do not shape the eyebrows or beard but rather blend them into the desired square shape.
Clean the cheeks and throat with a # 10.
3. Use a #10 on the belly. Follow the direction of the growth of hair. DO NOT clip past
the navel. You should not be able to detect that the belly has been clipped when the dog is
in a standing position.
4. Trim between the pads on the soles of the feet with a #10. Trim the edges with scissor
neatly to the natural shape of
the foot. Clip the nails, clean
the ears, bath and blow dry the
dog. Retrim the body of the
dog with the clippers. Be sure
to
use no finer a blade than you
used initially.

10.4 GROOMING THE SCHNAUZER

The Schnauzer is a German dog unlike the majority
of the terriers that originate in Great Britain. The
genetic background of the Schnauzer is probably
derived from the Spaniel breeds.
The Miniature is classified as a Terrier (Group 4) and
the Standard and Giant are classed as Working dogs
(Group 3). All sizes have a rather different look and
so are rarely trimmed exactly the same. Some
variation to the following trimming procedure must be made with the Standard and Giant
varieties. This style should look similar to the stripped and plucked look of the show dog.
The overall impression should be one of squareness. The coat is not wiry and so must be
worked with stripping and plucking to get it to grow coarse. The pet Schnauzers are
usually clipped and so have a soft, silky and often curly coat. This is because the
undercoat has been clipped instead of pulled out.
1. BODY AND TAIL
A #10 or #7F is usually used on the body. Start behind the ears and continue down the
back following the vertebrae. Clip from the base of the tail to the tip. Do not leave a tuft
on the tip of the tail. Follow the direction the hair grows and trim down the shoulders to
the elbow, down the sides of the chest, leaving some furnishings and down the back of
the hind legs, to the hocks. Care must be taken to leave a clearly define fringe on the
forepart of the legs and curving back to just above the hock. In most Schnauzers this area
is outlined by white hair. Blend the leg furnishings with the thinning shears. Trim the
excess furnishings. Trim the feet neatly. Clip under the pads of the feet with a # 10.

2. NECK AND FORECHEST

Clip from the throat down the front part of the neck and forechest to a point level with the
elbows. Do not dig under the chest, but rather leave the hair to hall straight down. The
dog must be standing with his head up so that the chest springs forward.
3. UNDERBELLY
Using a #10 clip from the genital area to the navel in the direction the hair grows. Do not
go past the navel. The top of the inside of the thighs can also be cleaned off at this time,
but only a centre portion so that it does not show when the dog is in a standing position.
4. HEAD
Comb the hair on the face forward from a line just above the eyebrows to the corners of
the mouth. Use a #10 and clip the head back from above the eyebrows to the base of the
skull, then from the outer corner of the eye to the base of the ear, and from the corners of
the mouth back to form a "V" at the throat.
The eyebrows should resemble a shade or visor extending diagonally from the outer
corner to the inner edge of the eyes and divided at the stop to form two right angle
triangles with the perpendicular lines on the inside and approximately parallel. Comb the
eyebrows directly forward, using a long stroke to include the beard; then with the tips of
the straight-edged scissors held open to the width of the inner corner of the dog's eyes,
insert the points gently through the centre of the eye down to the stop. Keeping the shears
parallel with the top of the muzzle, cut away the surplus hair, thus separating the
eyebrows. Trim the outer edges so that they are level with the side of the head. Then cut
them diagonally from the outer edge to the centre with a single stroke. A curved shear
works well here. Finally cut an inverted "V" between the eyebrows. Take care that the
upper hairs are a fraction longer than the lower hairs.

5. EARS
Clip the front and back of the ears with a #10. Always clip from the centre of the ear to
the outer edges so as not to catch any of the ear flap. Some ears may not be cropped (the
skin flap has not been trimmed off), but should still be clipped. The hairs outside the ear
canal may be trimmed with the clippers or blunt ended scissors, but the inner hairs may
have to be plucked (only if the hairs are very fine and soft). Terriers do not tend to
appreciate this so go gently and quietly, a few hairs at a time. Cut as many as you can
with the scissors and clippers.
6. THE BEARD
The beard should be combed forward and parted in the middle. Cut along a line extending
from the corner of the mouth to the corner of the eyebrow. Trim the bottom beard a
fraction shorter than the top moustache so it will look even with the mouth slightly open.

10.5 GROOMING THE KERRY BLUE AND SOFTCOATED WHEATEN

TERRIERS
The Kerry Blue originates in Ireland. It is
quite a fearless breed and because of its size
and the strength of its jaws, one would not
welcome a bite from this dog. The coat is
quite soft and curly and therefore matts
easily. Consequently this breed can present
quite a challenge to the groomer.
1. Clip the head, ears and throat with a #10 and trim the throat in a "V" shape. Trim the
beard and edge of the eyebrows with the thinning shears. DO NOT trim between the
eyebrows.
2. Clip the back, sides and tail with a #4 or #5. Try to make the back appear shorter than
the legs and the whole body to look square.
3. Scissor the front legs to look like pillars and the back legs should follow the contours
of the body.
4. Leave the chest long to enhance the broadness and deepness of this part of the dog.
Just trim the ends.
NOTE: The show trim requires that the body be scissored into the desired shape. Only the
head and ears are clipped. This breed has a soft coat and so is not stripped or plucked like
the wire-coated terriers.

10.6 GROOMING THE SCOTTISH TERRIER

This breed is quite feisty and can present the groomer with a
significant challenge. They have very large and strong jaws
and can deliver a serious bite. Muzzling this breed is not out
of line depending on the individual dog. Although Scotties are
supposed to have good hard coats, many coats have softened
due to years of clipping or simply poor coat quality.
Consequently they are often presented to the groomer in a
matted state. Be careful.
The pet and show trims differ in that the show dog is stripped and the pet is clipped. The
idea is attain a dog that looks as close to the ground as possible. Therefore one does not
trim the skirt unless it is hanging on the ground. The ears and beard are trimmed and the
eyebrows should resemble a visor divided at the stop to form two right angle triangles
with the perpendicular lines parallel on the inside.
1. HEAD
Clip the head with a #10 making sure that you start just above the
eyebrows and trim the cheeks starting at the corners of the eye
and mouth. Clip the ears with a #10 but leave tufts of hair in front
and behind each ear. Just trim the top half of the ears. Comb the
eyebrows forward and scissor between the eyes in the form of an
inverted "V" shape. Scissor the ends of the eyebrows with
thinning shears. Comb the beard forward and thin out a line from
the corner of the mouth to the corner of the eyebrow with
thinning shears and blend this into the cheeks. If the beard needs
trimming do so only with the thinning shears or stripping knife.

2. BODY

Clip the body with a #4,5,7, or 10 blade, depending on the look desired. The coarser the
blade used, the longer the coat left and therefore the more the dog will resemble a
stripped look. However, some clients prefer a short, neat, clipped look instead. Generally
speaking, you can afford to use the coarser
blades on the hard coats, but a soft coat left long
often looks messy. Only clip the top of the back
and the entire tail. Trim the sides only to the
widest part of the body so that the skirt hangs
down from that point. Again this line can be
varied depending on the preference of the owner,
the conformation of the dog and the state of the
coat.

10. 7 THE SEALYHAM TERRIER

This breed is clipped similar to the Scottish Terrier except for the head. The face is
trimmed smooth with a # 7F, 81/2, 9 or 10, including the ears. The eyebrows and beard
are brushed forward together and the eyebrows are timed close to the outside corner of
the eye. The lower beard is left long, however most pet owners will choose to have it
trimmed in line with the top beard.

10.8 THE WEST HIGHLAND

TERRIER AND
CAIRN TERRIER
These are very attractive and happy little breeds, both originating in Scotland. Their coats
are supposed to be hard and wiry but many pet quality dogs have softer coats.
The show dog is never clipped and any tidying that my be necessary is done with a
stripping knife. The head should be shaped so that it looks completely round when seen
from the front and resembles two soup plates when seen from the sides. The upper half of
the ears are picked off and the lower edges trimmed. The throat should be trimmed
closely.
1. Use a #10 blade to clean the top half of the ears, just the tips. Do not dig into the coat
on the head.
2. Use a #4 or #5 to trim the neck and the top of the back and around the entire tail. do
not rim down the sides lower than the base of the tail. If the coat is soft it is best to brush
and comb the undercoat out first. This allows you to clip a smoother pattern without
taking too much and making the coat look choppy.
3. Trim the belly and inside of the thighs with a #10.
4. Clip the soles of the feet and trim the edges with scissors.
5. Blend and trim the rest of the coat with the thinning shears. Never use scissors as this
gives too much of a blunt cut appearance.

11.1 GROOMING THE SPANIEL

Most of the spaniels are found in Group 1, the
Sporting Group. However, some of the smaller
and more unique varieties may be found in the
Toy and Non-Sporting Groups, Groups 5 and 6
respectively.
There are two basic types of spaniels, land
spaniels and water spaniels. Generally, the land
spaniels have more coat and shorter legs. The
water spaniels tend to be longer in the legs and
have a more feathery coat.
The Cocker Spaniel is differentiated into American and English. The American is shorter
in height and length of body and has a dense, soft coat. They are usually solid in colour.
Although very popular as pets and good with their own families, the groomer is
sometimes challenged by a snappy temperament and a matted coat. The English Cocker
tends to be a little more even tempered and its coat is not usually as dense as an
American, but more like a Springer Spaniel.
The show trim is very attractive and can be done on any spaniel coat that is well cared
for. It is longer and fuller than the pet trim but more difficult to manage on a daily basis.
The dogs back is not clipped but instead the hair is encouraged to lie flat and lay several
inches long. The object is to make the coat look neat but leave the overall appearance as
natural as possible.. Thinning shears and a duplex dresser are used for this purpose, as
they allow the groomer to blend the trimmed hairs nicely. The body is often `sacked, that
is wrapped with a damp towel to set the coat in place and make it lie flat. The skirt is
left as long as possible and only the ends are neatly trimmed when necessary.
The same technique is used to trim the head and ears for the show trim and the pet trim.
To emphasize the prominence of the forehead, the hairs are left a little longer, just above
the stop and blended into the shorter hairs on the top of the head.

METHOD
1. THE HEAD
Using a #9, #10 or #7F blade, trim from the tip of the nose, up the muzzle, in the
direction the hair grows. Trim over the top of the eyes and up the cheeks, leaving a
triangular area between the eyes above the stop. These hairs are later blended with
thinning shears so that the hair only emphasizes the stop. The dog should not look like it
has an obvious topknot, nor should it appear to have bangs. The chin should be trimmed
very closely, especially along the lip line. The clipper should be run lightly against the
way the hair grows. Trim under the throat, and down the front of the neck, to the point of
the breastbone, leaving a "U" shape. Be wary of clipping against the lay of the hair as the
coat may appear to change colour. The lay of the hair changes direction at the edges of
the "U" on the throat.
The head and face should be short and neat, but the
blade used will depend on the texture of the coat. A #9
or #10 blade will leave a sleek, tidy look, but a #7F
blade will blend a thin coat neatly into thicker hairs on
the neck. Run the blade over the top of the head and
across the cheeks in the direction of the lay of the
coat. The base of the ears, both inside and out, can be
trimmed with a #10 blade. Sometimes it is advisable
to clip the entire inside of the earflap to increase air circulation, remove excess hair and
discourage a build up of moisture and bacteria, the prime ingredients for an ear infection.
The top third of the ears should be cleaned off into a "V" shape, which will highlight the
close set of the ears. The hair on the end of the ears should be left as long as possible,
with only the tips lightly scissored.

2. THE BODY
The choice of blade for the body will depend on the thickness, texture and condition of
the coat. Use a #9 or #10 for a smooth look. A #7F can be used if the groomer is careful
to clip evenly. This blade produces an attractive appearance leaving a nice covering of
hair. A #7 can be used on a thick, coarse coat to produce a more natural look. Be sure to
confirm the owners preference before experimenting.
Clip, down the top of the neck and along the centre of the back to the tail, using the
vertebrae as a guideline. Try to make this line as straight as possible, following the exact
lay of the coat. Although it is difficult to do this in one continuous stroke, there should be
no marks left that indicate a stop-start technique. Working from the base of the tail back
towards the front, trim the sides, skimming down to the widest part of the barrel. This
usually tends to be level with the base of the tail, which can be used as a guide.
Sometimes the longer hairs need to be tidied with thinning shears so that they do not puff
out at the sides.

Clip between the pads on the soles of the feet with a fine blade. A #10 is a safe bet, but a
closer trim can be had with a #15, #30 or #40.. Trim the edges of the feet with scissors so
that they lie directly under the legs and do protrude in front. Be sure to remove all matts
on top of and between the toes but DO NOT simply dig them out with scissors. Rather
take the time to dematt the knots with a comb and brush, and then trim the hairs evenly
with thinning shears to leave a natural, soft look. Although spaniels are well known for
their big, floppy feet, wet and muddy wads through the house do not impress many
homemakers. It is best to trim the hairs of the feet to conform with the normal size of the
foot for the hair will inevitably grow quickly. Be sure to adjust the finished look and size
of the foot to the conformation of the dog.

12.1 GROOMING THE SPOODLE OR COCKAPOO

This is a very common mixed breed that often requires clipping. It usually has an
abundant coat of various lengths, textures and colours. Generally this breed can be
trimmed to resemble a poodle, terrier or spaniel depending on the owner's preference and
the conformation of the dog.
As a rule, only a pure bred poodle suits a true poodle trim with clean feet and face. Most
Poodle crosses look best in a `terrier' trim of some sort.
1. HEAD
To make a flat head with eyebrows and a beard one would use a coarse blade to clean the
top of the head and ears. Some dogs look better with a topknot and long ears. If the ears
are left long, they should be neatly blended into the hair of the head. The inside of the
ears should be cleaned and any excess hair should be plucked from the ear canal. The rest
of the head can be trimmed with the coarse blade from the corner of the eyes to the ears
and down the muzzle from the corner of the lips to the throat, leaving a beard or
moustache. Another option would be to leave the whole head long and just scissor it into
the desired style.
2. BODY
Using the same blade trim the body in the direction the hair grows. If preferred the legs
can be left longer to resemble the `pants' of the poodle or the furnishings of the terrier.
The body could also be scissored into the desired shape if it is in good condition. This
finished look would resemble the puppy clip.
The tail is usually clipped clean if it is short. One could leave a pompom instead. If the
tail is long, a trimmed plume usually looks nice. Some owners prefer the tail be left
naturally long.

13.1 GROOMING THE SETTERS

ENGLISH, IRISH AND GORDON
All setters are found in Group 1, the Sporting Group. They come in the three varieties;
the English from England, the Irish from Ireland and the Gordon from Scotland. They are
`bird dogs' and have been bred to have gentle mouths but have excitable, gamey
dispositions. Consequently they are quite friendly but often a handful on the table.
Generally one does not think of setters as a breed that requires clipping. However, their
feathers and heads often become rather messy with wispy hairs. When clipped in the
essential areas, they look clean and crisp.
1. HEAD
Clip the head, ears and throat with a #10 or #7F in the direction the hair grows. The
indentation between the supercilliary arches must be thoroughly cleaned out. The "U" at
the throat should not extend as far as the sternum. It should be approximately 4 to 6
inches long. The ear should be clipped clean down the top 1/3 to enhance the low, flat ear
set and five a `long' impression.
2. BODY
The body may be thinned with thinning shears or a duplex dresser. It can be carded to
remove dead hair and woolly undercoat and even thinned lightly with a coarse clipper
blade. The thinning shears must then be used to blend in the various levels of coat.
Always follow the contours of the body.
Trim the back of the hocks with the thinning shears or clip with a #7F. Trim the straggly
hair from the front part of the forelegs with thinning shears or a stripping knife. Trim the
bottom of the feet with a #10. Comb the hair up from in between the toes and scissor it
level with the top of the foot. The tail should look like a plum. Use thinning shears to
taper it gently to a point at the tip. Remove the surplus hair from the top with thinning
shears or a stripping knife.

USING THE RAZOR COMB (DUPLEX DRESSER)

Unlike the plucking technique used for stripping the harsh coats of the terrier breeds, the
duplex dresser is used to CUT the soft, silky coats of other breeds. The knife should be
held as if thumbing through the pages of a book. A small amount of coat can be taken up
under the thumb and the displaced hair clenched between the thumb and knife. Using a
rolling wrist motion similar to the action used to core an apple, the hair is tugged towards
the groomers body, thus cutting the coat. As this is done, part of the hair will slip under
the thumb. This will have the effect of graduating the coat into tiny layers so that it will
lay flat.

CATS
14.1 GROOMING THE CAT
Although cats are particularly meticulous animals they still
require a certain amount of grooming attention from their owner.
If owners would keep up this basic care very few cats would ever
need to see a professional groomer. Just like the dog, the regular
grooming enhances the coat and lustre, removes dead and loose
hair and flaky skin. In fact, frequent brushing and combing will
remove the hair that a cat would normally swallow simply by
licking their own coat. This would greatly reduce the problem of hairballs, balls of hair
that form in the cat's stomach. Gentle and regular grooming sessions at a young age will
enable the cat to become accustomed to this type of attention. This one to one time is a
form of `quality time' the owner could be spending with their cat. Obviously this sessions
also would provide a good opportunity to note any irregularities like fleas, skin problems,
tumours or growths, cuts and ear problems.

14.2 EQUIPMENT
Combs: The comb required for cat grooming should have fine, tapered teeth that are
spaced close together. A static free comb is best for this very fine hair.
Brushes: A natural-bristle brush is recommended for cats, especially long hairs. The best
models have tufts of bristles that are graduated in length for deep penetration through the
hair. Synthetic bristles case hair breakage and excessive static electricity. A rubber brush
is useful on the short-haired cat, especially for polishing the coat or removing dead hair.
A fine wire slicker helps to remove dead hair and light tangles.
Nail Trimmer: Although the regular dog nail clippers can be sued on cat nails, they do
tend to split with this tool. Better for cats is the human nail clipper. The nails can be
clipped sideways and thus eliminate the tendency to split.
Powder Brush: A soft bristle brush can be used when powder-packing white and lightcoloured long-haired cats.
Soft toothbrush: To clean the hair under the eyes of Persians, Himalayans and other long
hairs when it is stained.
Cornstarch or grooming powder: Pack the powder all over the back and any dirty or
greasy area. If time permits you can wrap the cat in a towel for 24 hours and then brush
out completely.

14.3 GROOMING THE SHORT-HAIRED CAT

Short-haired cats are very easy to groom.
There are two types of short-hairs; those
with a single coat and those with a double
coat. The short-haired single coat is glossy
and fine in texture and lies close to the body.
Some of the breeds with this type of coat are
Siamese, Burmese, Korat, Havana Brown,
Bombay, Colourpoint Short-hair and
Oriental Short-hair.
The short-haired double coat is composed of two sets of hair: longer guard hair to give
the coat its colouring and a dense undercoat to provide warmth. Some of the breeds with
this type of coat are the American Short-hair, Abyssinian, Manx and Russian Blue.
Regular brushing or a gentle hand massage will loosen the dead hair. If there is a great
deal of shedding moisten your hands lightly and stroke the coat backward (from the tail
to the head) to help loosen it. Don't forget the underbody and legs. Finish by stroking,
combing or brushing the coat from head to tail in the natural direction of its growth.
Spray the hair lightly with coat conditioner or coat dressing. Stroke the fur with a
chamois, silk scarf or piece of black velvet to polish the coat. The goal is to make the
short-haired single coats appear glossy and slick and the short-haired double coats look
plush.

14.4 GROOMING THE LONG-HAIRED CAT

Daily combing and brushing is essential for longhaired cats or at least 3 times a week. Long hairs
should be combs first and then brushed. use the
medium-spaced side for the hair on the cat's head
and legs. Before you begin you can spray the hair
lightly with coat conditioner or coat dressing to
reduce static electricity or sprinkle a little
grooming powder onto light-coloured cats. The
correct technique is to place the teeth close to the
skin and comb upward to lift out all the dead hair,

remove mats and tangles and

straighten the undercoat. comb the
facial hair, paying particular attention
around the base of the ears. After you
have finished combing, use the natural
bristle brush to remove any remaining
dead hair.

14.5 POWDER PACKING

Powder-packing is a method of cleaning white and light-coloured cats instead of bathing.
The cat should be thoroughly groomed first. Spread a towel and pack the coat with
cornstarch or grooming powder, using a powdered sugar shaker. Use your fingers to
separate the hair. Use a small soft-bristle brush or toothbrush for the facial area, taking
care not to get it into the cat's eyes, to irritate the tear ducts or its nose or to inflame the
nasal passages.
Black and dark-coloured cats are never powder-packed. Instead, their coats can be
cleaned by shaking cornmeal into the hair and then brushing it out.

14.6 BATHING THE CAT

Cats that are regularly groomed may never need to be bathed, however if the cat gets
dirty, smelly or infested with fleas a bath may be required.
Fill the sink with a few inches of warm, soapy water. Add a rubber mat, soft towel or a
slanting window screen so that the cat does not slip in the bottom of the tub. Get all your
equipment ready before you start as you will need both hands once the cat is in the tub.
The cat should be thoroughly brushed and combed and all tangles removed. Put some
cotton in the ears and some mineral oil in the eyes if you don't use tearless shampoo.
Most cats are happier if you start at the back end first, but if the cat has fleas, you must
start at the head. We the cat all over and pour shampoo over the coat, lathering and
squeezing the fur. Talk quietly and reassuringly and move slowly. Hold the cat down by
the shoulders and the hips so that it doesn't jump up into your face. Clean the face and
ears with a washcloth and tearless shampoo and remove stubborn stains under the eyes
with a soft toothbrush. Sometimes a second shampooing is required for particularly dirty
animals. Empty the sink before the final rinse and using warm water and either a spray
attachment or a cup, rinse the forehead and down the neck and back towards the tail. A
little white vinegar in the rinse will help remove any remaining grease. Squeeze the
excess water and blot the hair with a towel. Use a blow dryer to fluff dry the hair.

14.7 HAIRBALLS
Daily combing and brushing helps to retard the ingestion during
self-grooming sessions of dead hair that can form into
hairballs. Cats spend nearly 30% of their waking time
grooming themselves. During self-grooming the loose, dead
hair sticks to barb-like, backward-projecting filiform papillae
on the cat's tongue and because of the backward angle of the
bars, the hair is easily swallowed by the cats. Usually it passes
through the digestive system, but in periods of excessive
shedding, hair accumulates in the stomach and forms into a
ball several inches wide. Some cats will normally cough up hairballs but once a large
mass passes from the stomach to the intestines, it cannot be regurgitated. If the mass
cannot pass through the intestinal tract, constipation and impaction will occur. Treatment
consists of an enema or mild laxative to help lubricate the mass, along with a fast of
about 24 hours. If the hairball does not pass normally it may have to be removed
surgically.
Hairball medication in the form of petroleum jelly flavoured with malt can be
administered about 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon place on the cat's nose or front paw, where it will
be promptly licked off and swallowed.

14.8 SKIN PROBLEMS IN CATS

STUD TAIL
Some cats acquire the condition of stud tail that is a waxy secretion at the base of the tail.
It occurs when the sebaceous glands near the base and top of the tail secrete a dark, oily
substance from the pores that causes the hair to become greasy and discoloured and to
smell rancid. Although it occurs in neutered males and females, it is most often seen in
breeding males. If the condition is ignored, the exudation will irritate the skin, damage
the hair follicles and eventually cause a thinning or permanent loss of hair.
Cats affected with stud tail should be bathed frequently. It is not necessary to shampoo
the entire cat, just the discoloured tail area. Rinse thoroughly, pat dry and sprinkle the
area with a little fuller's earth, cornstarch or medicated powder, making sure the granules
get deep into the damp hair.
BLACKHEADS OR FELINE ACNE
Occasionally during the regular grooming session you may notice dark specks that
resemble blackheads on your cat's chin, known as feline acne or chin pyoderma. It occurs
in certain cats when dirt or food particles clog the pores. Blackheads appear in the early
stages; if the condition is neglected, pustules and small cysts often form and the entire
chin area may become swollen and infected. It is most common in short-haired cats. To
treat, wash the area with an antibacterial soap and water. Scrub gently with a soft
toothbrush and rinse well. you may pat a little cornstarch or rubbing alcohol onto the chin
to ensure dryness. Rubbing alcohol or human acne cleaners may help to remove the
blackheads.
COAT RUSTING
Coat rusting is a brownish-red stain on the ends of the hair caused by dampness, food
stains, too much sunlight or excessive licking. Commercial products can be purchased to
reduce this discolouration.

THE GROOMING BUSINESS

WHERE TO FIND THE GROOMING PROFESSION
1 - The Established Shop
2- The Kennel
3- The Pet Shop
4- Veterinary Clinic
5- New Business

TYPES OF EMPLOYMENT
1 - Self-Employed
2- Salaried
3- Commission
4- Piece Work
5- Equipment Status
6- Freelance
7 - Part-time vs Full-time
8- Owner/Manager
9- Specialization
10- Other sources of income

CHOOSING A LOCATION and SITE ANALYSIS

1- Research the market.
2- Research the competition
3- Use a shop
4- Use your own home - possibly convert and renovate
5- Rent/Buy/Build
6- Highway and street access
7- Parking
8- Zoning Restrictions
9- Gas/Hydro/Water/Sewer
10- Sprinklers/Fire Safety

FINANCING
1- How much can you make? Working Capital. How much do you need to borrow?
2- Check your rent, utilities, insurance, retail sales stock.
3 - Loan payments
4- Project your expenses and inventory
5- Set your prices

INTERIOR DESIGN
1- General floor plan and construction
2- Type of flooring/ceiling, walls, cupboards/closets/reception
3- Plumbing/Electricity and outlets
4- Windows and doors
5- Bathing area
6- Cages/Kennels/Runs
7- Storage area
8- Tables and set up

PUBLICITY
1- Name/Sign/Logo
2- Advertising media/How often
3- Services - i.e. pick up and delivery
4- Policies
5- Uniforms
6- Code of Ethics
7- Employees
8- Telephone
9- Sales
10- Business cards/appointment cards
11- Coupons/Gift Certificates
12- Bags
13- Education/Speaking engagements

SCHEDULING
1- The appointment book.
2- Appointment procedure
3- Admission and release procedures
4- Holidays
5- Hours and days of service
6- Reminders
7- Report cards
8- Filing system
9- Customer service