to allow a trigger-pull of at least 11;2lbs. or better.
A spring
0.150" OD X I" long is used for the sear spring. Both are
of 0.050" diameter wire. Most hardware stores carry (in
assortment of springs and examples close to these with
reasonable tension should work. Test the diameter by
passing through a 10-32 nut.
Fit the trigger and spring to the front block with the
No. 10-32 tension screw. Install a similar spring, cut to
length to fit between the sear and rear block, allowing
the sear to compress the
spring almost completely
when rotated fully forward.
After inserting the bolt,
disassemble and file the "l"
surface of the rear spacer
to stop the sear tail at the
proper point to cause the
sear to be stopped straight
upright when the bolt is
removed from the action.
This is a cut-and-try
operation until it fits
smoothly.
Hardening the Trigger and the Sear
Now dismantle the assembly and harden the working
surfaces of the trigger bar and the sear nose and catch.
Coat the sear and upper half of the trigger with soft soap
or liquid soap (thick) to prevent forming rust. Hold the
parts with a wire (long enough to isolate the heat from
your hand) to hold the part in a strong carburizing flame
(orange-yellow) until the upper end of the trigger bar
or the upper parts of the sear become orange-red color.
Bury the red-hot part into Kasenit or Hard-n-Tuffpowder
(from Brownells, Inc.) until they acquire a coating of the
powder. Reheat the parts to red heat and bury them in
the powder a second time. Brush off the loose powder,
reheat again and quench quickly in salt water. Wire
brush and polish the parts clean. I suggest using a brass
wire brush. Lubricate all moving parts and return to final
assembly. Guy opts for an oxy-acetylene torch, but I
find a propane torch does quite well.
Some Notes
1) Recheck the slope at top front of the front spacer and
side plates to insure the assembly will swing down far
enough when the bolt is pulled open. File some off if
necessary. Check the floor plate and trigger guard to
allow the clearances.
2) The trigger aperture in the bottom of the floor plate/
trigger guard may need widening or lengthening for
working clearance.
3) The spring pockets in the sear and the rear spacer
carry the sear spring, and should not kink the spring
when the sear is in the tripped position (compressed
spring). If so, "egg-shape" the holes to relieve the
misalignment.
4) The slopes at the lower front and rear of the spacer
blocks/side plates are for clearance with any obstructions
within the stock cavity or the magazine well, etc., and
may be filed to maintain clearance, as long as such
doesn't interfere with adjusting screws, rivets, etc.
5) There are several other rifles to which this trigger
system is applicable, with certain modifications, such
as the Springfield 03, Spanish Mauser, M93, Swedish
Mauser M96, and many civilian copies and offshoots,
with modifications to suit the individual arm. Check
the dimensions.
I would like to acknowledge the help of Guy Lautard in
the preparation of this article. ~
Photos by Author
October/November2001
29
